When I first heard about this printer, I thought, who in their right mind would buy that, but after hearing your explanation, it actually makes a lot of sense for your application.
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with... This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
Do your parts become sticky when using in wet environment (your parts touch water)? I'm also using MarkForged X7 with Onyx and parts become sticky when touch water and their strength reduce too much.
Nice. I love my Markforged printer. Making things with a mixture of CNC parts and printed parts is just wonderful. It's one of those tools that once you have one you wonder how you ever got anything done without it. Expensive to feed but so worth it. Really looking forward to seeing what you do with yours. OS
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Graysen Santiago Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
That look of no layer lines has more to do with the filament. Try some proto-pasta carbon fiber on your replicator and you will likely get very similiar results.
Actually, i have seen no other FDM printer, regardless of filament, giving as nice surface finish as the markforged does, it comes down to a very good filament and extremely well optimized settings for the printer. Some other printers with CF filaments are getting close, but not as good.
It better be a very tiny part running 50 micron layer height. I print most of my stuff at 320 microns because I have a 330 cubic print area and I only print small. If I ever print big I am going to an 800 micron nozzle and print around 400 or 500 micron layer heights. Even then my electricity here is too unstable to risk any prints over 8h.
Yes, you would not use the 50 micron setting unless your part demanded it, the standard setting on the X7 is to print with 100 microns without and 125 microns with fiber reiniforcement. We regularly run prints that takes a few days or even a week if we need it to have a good finish. On the other hand, our power situation is quite a bit different, with Sweden having one of the worlds most stable power grids, with on average of 1.2 power failures per customer and year. And these failures are mostly on the countryside with trees falling over powerlines and such, in our office (which is in the centre of the capital) i don't think we have had a single power failure this year.
Did you buy that 3D printer for full regular price or were you provided a discount in exchange for a review? Feels like a commercial for the printer and that's ok if it was a free, or low cost printer, in exchange.
Would love to get to spend some time with one of these machines for my products.. I produce using two PRUSA i3 MK3s as it is and they work great!. But the quailty you guys get with this is amazing
You should be getting that quality out of a Prusa. If you want to get rid of the layer lines, purchase a hardened steel nozzle and some CF filled filament, and you will have the same result. There will probably be a bit of tweaking and testing to get it to print super perfect, but I'd suggest taking the filament manufacturer's suggested settings, printing some stuff and revising appropriately.
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with... This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
It really is quite interesting how it actually is worth it for companies to buy these very expensive machines when the same quality "can" be achieved with really cheap hobbyist grade Chinese ones. My 140€ Chinese printer can achieve same results as a 2000€ machine (when the stars align just right) but if i were paid a machinists wage for the time i spend troubleshooting and tweaking the printer the 2000€ machine would prove itself cheaper in a month.
$25 for that part. That's 2kg of filament for me. I see they are trying to compete in the same category as Stratasys though, so if you don't want any screwing around at all, I guess that is what it costs.
Anonymouspock It's certainly expensive to buy and to feed, but with MF I feel like they're using the profits to fund the research into next year's model which will be even better. Stratasys seen happy to sell the same thing for a decade.
build a sheet metal cover for this distance where there is no screw conveyor 3d printed parts are not abrasion resistant to metal chips on permanent basis
24 dollars for that part... but what would be the cost without carbon fiber? It would be enough stiff? I saw a 3D printer based on nylon powder, and the printout had very good mechanical properties. What for the Markforged?
You can print with the Onyx chopped fiber reinforced material witgout laying in the carbon fiber stands on a Mark Two. You can also print in Nylon 6 un-reinforced for maximum value when it's properties are acceptable for the application.
@@jamesg8246 , what would be the reduction of costs when using onyx for the same part in the video? 50% less? And what if not using any reinforcement at all? 70% less? More: parts without reinf. are brittle? In other words, they can be compared to the ones produced by an hobbyst-cheap machine?
Looks like something I could use. I've tried contacting them via their website several times over two weeks and haven't received a response. Even chatted with someone at Markforge. But then nada. Must be busy.
marked forged has a beautiful 3D printer.. the problem is, to use it they require you upload all of your designs to their server. Meaning if you even "might" come up with a invention they already have your secrets. You can pay an exorbitant amount of money for their "off-line" software ($5,000) so you can supposedly keep your ideas secret. Well i was a chump that bought this printer and paid their ridiculous fee but they refused to give me this offline software. They required that I first sign a disclaimer where you agree to use their online software!!! I complained and got my money back less shipping... shipping was not cheap!! This is a beautiful machine but mark forged a horribly un-ethical company. I would recommend against buying this printer. I instead bough the fusion 3, which also prints in carbon fiber, has a much bigger print bed and allows you to print off-line... shame shame on the mark forged company!!.... horrible business practices!!!
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with... This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
*More like Aluminum is only a bit better than plastic. Sorry, I have only worked with Steel and Stainless. This is all hyperbole and every material needs to be evaluated for each individual project. I bought my first 3D printer when I found out that I could print nylon gears.
What about FDM plastics printed with thousands of interfaces. Only one layer needs to fail and the part is failed. Yes, plastics are strong. 3d printed plastics, not so much.
Speaking in very general terms; With so many things in our lives tracked and controlled by computers, any kind of "failed layer" brings disaster. The failed layer can be a glitch in our computer banking, a cycle in our computer controlled automobile engine, a bad line of G-Code running my CNC Machine. Most hobby 3D printers do not adequately control all the variables which can cause failures. These are mostly mechanical or electrical in nature. A full understanding of the process is what gives reliability, not dogmatic adherence to generalities.
Much of the metal in your world is held together with fusion deposited welds. The base material breaks before the weld. I will say that RUclips educated hobbyists using hobby level printers with unheated and open build chambers are prone to printing objects that are weak along the Z axis. There is so much bad information on RUclips and it gets repeated.
Antonio Zavala I don't get the obsession people seem to have with printing firearms. When you have a full machine shop you can make whatever sort of firearm you want without the risk of blowing your face off by making it out of layered plastic. Having a 3d printer doesn't change anything when it comes to arms manufacture, not about the materials you would want to use and not about the licenses you need to make the endeavor lawful. The only thing it might change would be prototyping to check fitup before using metal or injection moulded fibre reinforced plastics to make production parts, just like for any other type of product.
Steven Doesburg who said anything about "firearms" specifically. Printing is great for prototypes. And shit just doesn't blow up unless there is a miscalculation in a certain application
You are correct, I assumed you were talking about firearms. I don't see what other weaponry you might try to make out of plastics other than say blunt impact weapons, hence my assumption. You are also correct that when designed properly the part should not fail. The challenge with FDM is that the scatter on the strength of the material from one layer to another is higher than the scatter associated with the bulk material. The achieved strength depends on the exact parameter values used during the printing. This makes it hard to produce parts with a controlled strength. The design allowables become rather low compared to bulk material if you want to be sure that the part will not fail. Using injection moulded fibre reinforced parts allows for much higher stresses in the part compared to FDM parts both because of comparably favourable fibre orientations and because the process is much more controlled. If this is not economically feasible due to the part quantity it might be better to machine the parts out of billet material rather than printing them. You could also turn to Selective Laser Sintering metals but then we are talking about an entirely different class of machine.
This "review" is pure conjecture and bullshit. Its all marketing hype. I like how you say you can't see the layer lines, then don't show the side of the part. But on the two samples from Markforged you can clearly see the layer lines. Its just an FDM printer, nothing at all special about it. I have lost all faith in the unbiased nature of this channel. Un-Subbed
I absolutely love our Mark II and Onyx One machines.
When I first heard about this printer, I thought, who in their right mind would buy that, but after hearing your explanation, it actually makes a lot of sense for your application.
Why was that your initial though... prior to knowing who and why someone bought it?
Is it pricey, ie overpriced?
We have 2 of these at work, they are a great printer. Hope they work well for you guys!
how much is that printer ?
@@danrusu The Mark Two is about 25000€
The Onyx Pro with can "only" print Onyx and Carbon fiber costs about 12500€
Awesome stuff
love the teaser at the end of the video. As if I wasn't waiting to see the diy lathe video already.
Sure seems additive manufacturing gets better and more popular everyday!
Great video! Pretty hard to beat the capabilities/$ of Markforged!
What’s the price ?
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with...
This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C
Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
Auger extensions, hope Haas is watching. Great idea, hope Haas gives you more then just a thank you.
Nice addition to your shop. Thanks for the video.
Yes, now you have me all pumped, gotta buy one. Many thanks for the review guys!
Do your parts become sticky when using in wet environment (your parts touch water)? I'm also using MarkForged X7 with Onyx and parts become sticky when touch water and their strength reduce too much.
over a year ago i asked if youd get in to 3d printing. i was told it wasn't practical. just saying. good to see you enjoying it
Graydon Treude i remember that too
One of his hires got them into it.
Nice. I love my Markforged printer. Making things with a mixture of CNC parts and printed parts is just wonderful. It's one of those tools that once you have one you wonder how you ever got anything done without it. Expensive to feed but so worth it.
Really looking forward to seeing what you do with yours.
OS
That's a great machine, I can't wait to see what you do with it.
Had one for over a year now. Indispensable in a prototyping and quick turnaround parts!
Thumbs up for Johny 5
They're such nice printers! Nice breakdown video too, congrats! :)
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Sergio Lucas instablaster :)
@Graysen Santiago Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Graysen Santiago It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Sergio Lucas You are welcome xD
Can we print mould from this? If we can, after the mould is ready, what machine can I use to make goods from this mould? I am a beginner.
I'm surprised HAAS didn't have the screw flight run back over the coupling to begin with.
I saw a video were the guy actually uses a food dehydrator to remove any moisture from the filament in case it has soaked up moisture during storage.
That's silly, you can do it with an old toaster oven just fine.
That look of no layer lines has more to do with the filament. Try some proto-pasta carbon fiber on your replicator and you will likely get very similiar results.
Make sure you have a proper nozzle for it so the filament doesn't destroy it.
Actually, i have seen no other FDM printer, regardless of filament, giving as nice surface finish as the markforged does, it comes down to a very good filament and extremely well optimized settings for the printer. Some other printers with CF filaments are getting close, but not as good.
The only FDM printer i have seen with better surface finish than the Mark Two, is the Markforged X7 running 50 micron layer height :-)
It better be a very tiny part running 50 micron layer height. I print most of my stuff at 320 microns because I have a 330 cubic print area and I only print small. If I ever print big I am going to an 800 micron nozzle and print around 400 or 500 micron layer heights. Even then my electricity here is too unstable to risk any prints over 8h.
Yes, you would not use the 50 micron setting unless your part demanded it, the standard setting on the X7 is to print with 100 microns without and 125 microns with fiber reiniforcement. We regularly run prints that takes a few days or even a week if we need it to have a good finish.
On the other hand, our power situation is quite a bit different, with Sweden having one of the worlds most stable power grids, with on average of 1.2 power failures per customer and year. And these failures are mostly on the countryside with trees falling over powerlines and such, in our office (which is in the centre of the capital) i don't think we have had a single power failure this year.
Pardon my ignorance but how does washing the chips out of the back consume coolant?
Can someone point me to the video where you tested the printed vise jaws? I looked but didn't find it.
Hey, I was wondering, could you make a fusion tutorial on that Haas part? I would be really glad to see, how did you make that.
Did you buy that 3D printer for full regular price or were you provided a discount in exchange for a review? Feels like a commercial for the printer and that's ok if it was a free, or low cost printer, in exchange.
Would love to get to spend some time with one of these machines for my products.. I produce using two PRUSA i3 MK3s as it is and they work great!. But the quailty you guys get with this is amazing
You should be getting that quality out of a Prusa. If you want to get rid of the layer lines, purchase a hardened steel nozzle and some CF filled filament, and you will have the same result. There will probably be a bit of tweaking and testing to get it to print super perfect, but I'd suggest taking the filament manufacturer's suggested settings, printing some stuff and revising appropriately.
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with...
This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C
Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
I have a mark two and love it
It really is quite interesting how it actually is worth it for companies to buy these very expensive machines when the same quality "can" be achieved with really cheap hobbyist grade Chinese ones. My 140€ Chinese printer can achieve same results as a 2000€ machine (when the stars align just right) but if i were paid a machinists wage for the time i spend troubleshooting and tweaking the printer the 2000€ machine would prove itself cheaper in a month.
$25 for that part. That's 2kg of filament for me. I see they are trying to compete in the same category as Stratasys though, so if you don't want any screwing around at all, I guess that is what it costs.
Anonymouspock
It's certainly expensive to buy and to feed, but with MF I feel like they're using the profits to fund the research into next year's model which will be even better. Stratasys seen happy to sell the same thing for a decade.
That’s just normal priced prints, if you calculate overhead, machine and machinist cost in you will be way above that price for one offs.
A Machinist to run a printer? Hell, I go to work 40 hours a week programming cnc's, my printer stays home printing.
how much $$ is the Mark 2 out of the box with the material spools you spoke about? (not including additional software)
Oh brother!! Thought this was a commercial ;)
build a sheet metal cover for this distance where there is no screw conveyor 3d printed parts are not abrasion resistant to metal chips on permanent basis
24 dollars for that part... but what would be the cost without carbon fiber? It would be enough stiff?
I saw a 3D printer based on nylon powder, and the printout had very good mechanical properties. What for the Markforged?
You can print with the Onyx chopped fiber reinforced material witgout laying in the carbon fiber stands on a Mark Two. You can also print in Nylon 6 un-reinforced for maximum value when it's properties are acceptable for the application.
@@jamesg8246 , what would be the reduction of costs when using onyx for the same part in the video? 50% less? And what if not using any reinforcement at all? 70% less?
More: parts without reinf. are brittle? In other words, they can be compared to the ones produced by an hobbyst-cheap machine?
wow so great
Looks like something I could use. I've tried contacting them via their website several times over two weeks and haven't received a response. Even chatted with someone at Markforge. But then nada. Must be busy.
why didn't you print that cf part with cheap support material?
well thats another one for the lottery win list
Does the software require a subscription?
FYI: Voice over sounds muffled.
Most interesting subject though.
How much?
can i use fusion 360 to design my stuff
Wooow ! It's that Johnny 5 ? :-o
How much do one of these run around?
Nice Benchmade!
If I remember correctly they snached the continous fibre printing patetnt and locked it up for everyone else
Please sell these! I need one for my VF-2SSYT. Haas needs to design better chip evacuation. Its quite miserable to deal with.
This would have been a really interesting part for millinh
Wow OMG! A Dream!
Good
Isn't the filament $300 kg?
Johnny 5 ?????
From the movie "Short Circuit" and its sequels.
Johnny 5 need more input.
Top
No pointer to the MarkedForged website?
You're kidding, right?
Google MarkForged instead - might get the right hit then. ;)
markforged.com/products
So... does or does not contain paid promotion? Sure sounded like a commercial.
marked forged has a beautiful 3D printer.. the problem is, to use it they require you upload all of your designs to their server. Meaning if you even "might" come up with a invention they already have your secrets. You can pay an exorbitant amount of money for their "off-line" software ($5,000) so you can supposedly keep your ideas secret. Well i was a chump that bought this printer and paid their ridiculous fee but they refused to give me this offline software. They required that I first sign a disclaimer where you agree to use their online software!!! I complained and got my money back less shipping... shipping was not cheap!! This is a beautiful machine but mark forged a horribly un-ethical company. I would recommend against buying this printer. I instead bough the fusion 3, which also prints in carbon fiber, has a much bigger print bed and allows you to print off-line... shame shame on the mark forged company!!.... horrible business practices!!!
thanks i was actualy considering buying this
Unusefull printer you can not use a difetent materials and Onix is expensive compared with...
This 3D printer do not allows you to set a temperature different than 275°C
Does any body knows any way to modify the temperature in order to use it with a diferents material?
Someone cloned you as a robot with that voice.
looks expensive
hyGroscopic!
lol happens to me all the time!
Great vids btw. Love this channel.
Strength of aluminium*
*More like Aluminum is only a bit better than plastic. Sorry, I have only worked with Steel and Stainless. This is all hyperbole and every material needs to be evaluated for each individual project. I bought my first 3D printer when I found out that I could print nylon gears.
What about FDM plastics printed with thousands of interfaces. Only one layer needs to fail and the part is failed. Yes, plastics are strong. 3d printed plastics, not so much.
Speaking in very general terms; With so many things in our lives tracked and controlled by computers, any kind of "failed layer" brings disaster. The failed layer can be a glitch in our computer banking, a cycle in our computer controlled automobile engine, a bad line of G-Code running my CNC Machine. Most hobby 3D printers do not adequately control all the variables which can cause failures. These are mostly mechanical or electrical in nature.
A full understanding of the process is what gives reliability, not dogmatic adherence to generalities.
JohnHoranzy Okay, but that wasnt the question. Even in a perfect case scenario, this is still fdm printing. There will still be layers of material.
Much of the metal in your world is held together with fusion deposited welds. The base material breaks before the weld. I will say that RUclips educated hobbyists using hobby level printers with unheated and open build chambers are prone to printing objects that are weak along the Z axis. There is so much bad information on RUclips and it gets repeated.
Why do you sound like a robot
HyGROscopic
Wow you would need to do a lot of printing to fork out $13,500 for a desktop 3d Printer.
Are you going to print weaponry?
Antonio Zavala I don't get the obsession people seem to have with printing firearms. When you have a full machine shop you can make whatever sort of firearm you want without the risk of blowing your face off by making it out of layered plastic. Having a 3d printer doesn't change anything when it comes to arms manufacture, not about the materials you would want to use and not about the licenses you need to make the endeavor lawful. The only thing it might change would be prototyping to check fitup before using metal or injection moulded fibre reinforced plastics to make production parts, just like for any other type of product.
Steven Doesburg who said anything about "firearms" specifically. Printing is great for prototypes. And shit just doesn't blow up unless there is a miscalculation in a certain application
You are correct, I assumed you were talking about firearms. I don't see what other weaponry you might try to make out of plastics other than say blunt impact weapons, hence my assumption.
You are also correct that when designed properly the part should not fail. The challenge with FDM is that the scatter on the strength of the material from one layer to another is higher than the scatter associated with the bulk material. The achieved strength depends on the exact parameter values used during the printing. This makes it hard to produce parts with a controlled strength. The design allowables become rather low compared to bulk material if you want to be sure that the part will not fail.
Using injection moulded fibre reinforced parts allows for much higher stresses in the part compared to FDM parts both because of comparably favourable fibre orientations and because the process is much more controlled. If this is not economically feasible due to the part quantity it might be better to machine the parts out of billet material rather than printing them. You could also turn to Selective Laser Sintering metals but then we are talking about an entirely different class of machine.
Web slicer what a turn off
You better not be making any of them scary #ghostguns
Or what? You gonna pound your little fists and stamps yer leetle feets and hold yer breath until you pass out? Can I watch? lol
Not even the trumpflakes know sarcasm when they see it
John's not stupid enough to "make" something that might blow up in your hand after a few shots...
This "review" is pure conjecture and bullshit. Its all marketing hype. I like how you say you can't see the layer lines, then don't show the side of the part. But on the two samples from Markforged you can clearly see the layer lines. Its just an FDM printer, nothing at all special about it. I have lost all faith in the unbiased nature of this channel. Un-Subbed
Diesel Ramcharger it a showcase of how much strength those pieces are, not for showing how cute look.
Thumbs down for your change of voice. It sucks.
True that Ouija. More awesome education content the better. Plus the new microphone and recording sounds way better then the last video with Ed