You don’t need to dismantle the carburator parts since there is a hole in the casing beneath the carburator that gives you access to a drain plug then let go some fuel stabilizer
great video! the only thing you forgot to reinstall the carburetor gasket on the side of the air intake chamber (I think you can see it under the corner of your tray on the table) , and you should change the crank case oil and the lower end lube at the end of every season's use. Otherwise you did wonderful and I enjoyed your presentation.
Nothing terrible about all this - useful if the engine starts to misbehave but probably unnecessary otherwise. The boating community has an absolute mania for maintenance - imagine doing this with my car's engine!
Great video and well explained for a newbie like me. I have just bought a Honda 2hp and it kept cutting out when I put any throttle on, I guessed it must not have been getting enough air, so I followed your video step by step and now it works perfectly. Thank you 👍
I love the “Duck oil” but it seems impossible to find here in the states. I’m replacing the clutch and carburetor on my mates 13 year old motor,both bottom bolts on this carburetor were in poor shape and I see how they can freeze up. A yearly maintenance should keep all bolts from freezing up,also 5cc oil added into the cylinder and worked in can help as well. Cheers!
The jet is too small.It will block no matter what after 3-4 months.You have to clean the carb more often.Also the fuel cap is not air /moisture tight.If the engine is left outside or on a boat it lets moisture enter the fuel tank and the engine stalls.Also be careful to seal with marine grease every moving part because it is not made for marine use like other engines.Still is a very low cost engine.
I have run the engine dry of fuel in the past but still had a blocked jet come the spring, though I have to say I was not using a stabilizer. I showed removing and cleaning the carb only as an extra, because I couldn't find any videos on RUclips showing how it comes off. I usually find it sufficient just to drain the fuel and flush the pipes and carb through with meths or similar. Anyway, glad you liked it.
Hi. Thanks for posting. Just a few points I would like to make. The main jet issues you get with these carburettors are with the slow running pilot jet, not the main jet as you point out . Removing the main jet on fairly new engines is easy, once they are a few years old they usually seize inside the carb body and damage easily if you try to remove them. Also care needs to be taken not to damage the gasket. A much easier way to drain the carb is the loosen the bowl retaining bolt by a couple of turns. This will drain all of the fuel out of the carb and you will negate the need to remove the carburettor
I have done everything he has done in this video except lifting the motor to drain gas, cannot believe I never thought of this over the last 2 years , draining the gas was a major pain in the @SS . THX for enlightening me and making gas removal easier.
Why not empty every drop from the tank and the carburetor by removing the easy access drain screw below the carburetor through the plastic housing,one step?
Great in theory - provided you can get it undone. I no longer have the engine but from memory it opens with a screwdriver and on my two year old engine it was seized up solid and impossible to unscrew.
It's Swarfega Duck Oil which you can buy in an aerosol: www.amazon.co.uk/SDO500ML-Swarfega-Multi-purpose-Service-Spray/dp/B000Y8HGVE/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_1/257-1788375-9982840?pd_rd_w=WStcm&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b8e2e2f-120c-4c83-aa0e-568f2f95d00c&pf_rd_p=8b8e2e2f-120c-4c83-aa0e-568f2f95d00c&pf_rd_r=47K25HHV1T8FN49SR6GB&pd_rd_wg=YyAQG&pd_rd_r=e264b7f1-2fa6-4924-8e96-adadddaf8a2e&pd_rd_i=B000Y8HGVE&th=1, or a 5 litre container: www.amazon.co.uk/Swarfega-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Protector-Degreaser/dp/B000Y8J8I8 - both links to Amazon but you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
Strange seems my voice is now in your video lol weird this shouldn't happen don't delete the video I will contact RUclips as it must have recorded my voice as the voice is mine ?? Commenting while watching it ?? Strange please confirm ?? It's mind boggled me
Hi Jack. Sorry to hear that but it's now five years since I did the video and I no longer have the outboard so can't look and see. I can only think that if you unscrew the first jet then maybe you can use something like an Allen key in the throat of the carburettor to push the jet out. Or maybe someone else has a better idea?
Yes that's certainly an option. But in my experience if you leave the fuel in the carburettor, tank and lines it will still oxidise. And who wants to be getting their engine in and out six to eight times to do all that? I hate the winter here in England so I try to go away and leaving the outboard properly winterised is thus essential.
As part of the process, should you add a little bit of motor oil into the spark plug port to lube the cylinders or is this not necessary. Great tutorial!
Hi Ted - yes a very good suggestion and I can't believe I didn't make it in the video! I would be inclined to use something like Redex or even the duck oil - squirt a bit in and then crank the engine over manually a few times to distribute it.
Thank you so much I saw your video before my first 3 adventures with my sail bot Siren 17 in the third one the engine started giving trouble I clean d the carburetor at the boat ramp and the issue was solved. I am wondering why this carb. does not has an air filter..
Hello Rafael. Just about to purchase the 2.3 Honda for my MiniCat 420. You mention your Siren 17 boat. Does this 2.3 engine work well on your sailboat as I have a Siren 17 too.
Yes frequently. If the fuel is switched off and the air vent in the cap fully screwed down then you should not experience any leakage. If you do, there is a fault somewhere. Perhaps a leaking seal on the fuel tank screw cap. I keep the outboard stored in my cabin cruiser and a leak would be a serious matter.
@@Lt.Fireguy I know this is a bit late and you have probably sorted you leak out now but hopefully it will help others. There is a small rubber washer, just like a tap washer, under the vent cap that perishes and allows fuel leakage. It costs less than £2 and the Honda part number is 17624-ZV0-000. A real easy fix that will keep you safe!
I have used this engine and its works like junk when going against the current. I like the brand but this 2.3 is just a toy, nothing more. Very disappointed and will put it on Craigslist.
@@tonytoller I have a Sea Eagle SE9 and that thing struggles to move forward when going against the current. May be I need to get a different inflatable. At least it is good to know that it is not the motor issue as it is working great for you.
Yes I flushed the tank with meths and the red stuff is Duck OIl made by Swarfega. Leaves a protective film. Brilliant stuff - you can spray it all over an engine and it has no detrimental effect on rubber belts, electrics or anything else. But it does keep rust and corrosion at bay.
You don’t need to dismantle the carburator parts since there is a hole in the casing beneath the carburator that gives you access to a drain plug then let go some fuel stabilizer
great video! the only thing you forgot to reinstall the carburetor gasket on the side of the air intake chamber (I think you can see it under the corner of your tray on the table) , and you should change the crank case oil and the lower end lube at the end of every season's use. Otherwise you did wonderful and I enjoyed your presentation.
Brilliant! Saved me hundreds of dollars since they want $215 where I live to do what you did in 20 minutes. Took me a bit longer of course. Thank you!
Straight forward and practical winterisation demo.. thanks for sharing. 👍
The worst outboard ever. Mines been carb cleaned and has stabilized fuel. Only a few months old and almost impossible to start. Total heap of shite.
Nothing terrible about all this - useful if the engine starts to misbehave but probably unnecessary otherwise. The boating community has an absolute mania for maintenance - imagine doing this with my car's engine!
Great video and well explained for a newbie like me.
I have just bought a Honda 2hp and it kept cutting out when I put any throttle on, I guessed it must not have been getting enough air, so I followed your video step by step and now it works perfectly. Thank you 👍
Is there a good alternative for duck oil that I can get in the US?
I love the “Duck oil” but it seems impossible to find here in the states.
I’m replacing the clutch and carburetor on my mates 13 year old motor,both bottom bolts on this carburetor were in poor shape and I see how they can freeze up.
A yearly maintenance should keep all bolts from freezing up,also 5cc oil added into the cylinder and worked in can help as well.
Cheers!
Duck oil made Swarfega company really good..
The jet is too small.It will block no matter what after 3-4 months.You have to clean the carb more often.Also the fuel cap is not air /moisture tight.If the engine is left outside or on a boat it lets moisture enter the fuel tank and the engine stalls.Also be careful to seal with marine grease every moving part because it is not made for marine use like other engines.Still is a very low cost engine.
Прокладку между карбюратором и абсорбером забыл.
Tony please whatch YOUR VIDEO AGAIN !!!!!!! ,!!!! ,!!!!!.??????? My voice in it 6.44 min into it Honda jet clean vid ??
Daz Smith “fishing line”... nice add on!
Much appreciated; thank you.
Winterise?
Oh you're from England, my condolences.
😛
Thanks - and greatly needed at the moment! My first winter in the UK for a few years.
I have run the engine dry of fuel in the past but still had a blocked jet come the spring, though I have to say I was not using a stabilizer. I showed removing and cleaning the carb only as an extra, because I couldn't find any videos on RUclips showing how it comes off. I usually find it sufficient just to drain the fuel and flush the pipes and carb through with meths or similar. Anyway, glad you liked it.
Tony Toller please contact us at sniperscopes@outlook.com I've also contacted you on face book thanks
Thanks. This was the only video I could find that shows how to disassemble the carb and clean out the jet. Very helpful!
Thanks Brian.
What about using a fuel stabilizer to prevent build up, then just drain the fuel at the end of the season. Good video! Thanks for posting.
Exactly what I needed. Thanks
Brilliant. Thank you so much. I hadn’t used the engine for 5 years and after following your instructions ..bingo. Expert teaching, cheers!
Thanks Chai - happy to hear you got started ok.
This looks too complicated. I just saw another channel where he ran the engine until the fuel ran out.
Hi. Thanks for posting. Just a few points I would like to make. The main jet issues you get with these carburettors are with the slow running pilot jet, not the main jet as you point out . Removing the main jet on fairly new engines is easy, once they are a few years old they usually seize inside the carb body and damage easily if you try to remove them. Also care needs to be taken not to damage the gasket.
A much easier way to drain the carb is the loosen the bowl retaining bolt by a couple of turns. This will drain all of the fuel out of the carb and you will negate the need to remove the carburettor
I have done everything he has done in this video except lifting the motor to drain gas, cannot believe I never thought of this over the last 2 years , draining the gas was a major pain in the @SS . THX for enlightening me and making gas removal easier.
Tony, Is there another name for Duck Oil and would you know if it’s available in Canada?... Thanks, John in Ontario, Canada....
Why not empty every drop from the tank and the carburetor by removing the easy access drain screw below the carburetor through the plastic housing,one step?
Great in theory - provided you can get it undone. I no longer have the engine but from memory it opens with a screwdriver and on my two year old engine it was seized up solid and impossible to unscrew.
@@tonytoller id say put some "never sieze" on it
What is the name of that spray u are using it looks so good
It's Swarfega Duck Oil which you can buy in an aerosol: www.amazon.co.uk/SDO500ML-Swarfega-Multi-purpose-Service-Spray/dp/B000Y8HGVE/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_1/257-1788375-9982840?pd_rd_w=WStcm&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b8e2e2f-120c-4c83-aa0e-568f2f95d00c&pf_rd_p=8b8e2e2f-120c-4c83-aa0e-568f2f95d00c&pf_rd_r=47K25HHV1T8FN49SR6GB&pd_rd_wg=YyAQG&pd_rd_r=e264b7f1-2fa6-4924-8e96-adadddaf8a2e&pd_rd_i=B000Y8HGVE&th=1, or a 5 litre container: www.amazon.co.uk/Swarfega-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Protector-Degreaser/dp/B000Y8J8I8 - both links to Amazon but you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
I use rubbing alcohol rather than meths..
Is the rubber part and hoses compatible with high concentration alcohol?
My task for this weekend. Just bought a 2nd hand 2.3hp and need to clean the carb and add new fuel. Thank you so much, much appreciated
Good To Know, during Canadian winters...!
Yes a bit more severe than we get in the UK.
enjoyed your video. I can't find " duck oil " here in america tho. Thanks for the info.
Strange seems my voice is now in your video lol weird this shouldn't happen don't delete the video I will contact RUclips as it must have recorded my voice as the voice is mine ?? Commenting while watching it ?? Strange please confirm ?? It's mind boggled me
I put jet in upside when you said thicker end to top I taught you ment facing u .I can get it out any tips
Hi Jack. Sorry to hear that but it's now five years since I did the video and I no longer have the outboard so can't look and see. I can only think that if you unscrew the first jet then maybe you can use something like an Allen key in the throat of the carburettor to push the jet out. Or maybe someone else has a better idea?
@@tonytoller it popped out great video it's flying now bon voyage lol thanks
Thanks for the detailed explanation it helped me a lot made things easier for me this is Ashley from India
very good video! what is the yellow substance that you put in the motor?
Do you know if there is a fuel filter fitted on this engine?
why is mine making sqeaking sound when i rev throttle a bit
Very helpful thank you Sir.
Very informative thanks Tony
No need to mty the tank. Just add new when you start again.
Couldn’t u just start it and let it run for a few every few weeks during the winter months ?
Yes that's certainly an option. But in my experience if you leave the fuel in the carburettor, tank and lines it will still oxidise. And who wants to be getting their engine in and out six to eight times to do all that? I hate the winter here in England so I try to go away and leaving the outboard properly winterised is thus essential.
Thx for the awesome information. God bless!
Great video anyhow help me fix my Honda just how did my voice get in video 6.44 minutes into it please watch it and see very STRANGE.
Yes the video appears to have got corrupted. The problem is I don't want to re-load because it will go right back to square one with viewings.
First class video. Mine wouldn't start so suspected fuel starvation. Can't wait to clean my carb now. Thanks
Thanks. I would lay money on it being a blocked jet. The orifice is SO small it easily gets blocked.
Sir, please use gloves!
so wd40 is like duck oil?
trusty little Honda
Thanks for the compliment. Lovely!
Thank you so much for taking off that carburettor! I had no idea how to do that! Graeme, Canada
As part of the process, should you add a little bit of motor oil into the spark plug port to lube the cylinders or is this not necessary. Great tutorial!
Hi Ted - yes a very good suggestion and I can't believe I didn't make it in the video! I would be inclined to use something like Redex or even the duck oil - squirt a bit in and then crank the engine over manually a few times to distribute it.
#fuel stabilizer
Brilliant video
Thanks Sir!
Thank you so much I saw your video before my first 3 adventures with my sail bot Siren 17 in the third one the engine started giving trouble I clean d the carburetor at the boat ramp and the issue was solved. I am wondering why this carb. does not has an air filter..
Hello Rafael.
Just about to purchase the 2.3 Honda for my MiniCat 420. You mention your Siren 17 boat. Does this 2.3 engine work well on your sailboat as I have a Siren 17 too.
@@mikegrevatt8980 yes it does
nice job, very informative.
Camera too far
Have you transported it laying down on it side (handle up) with vent cap and fuel line off. And if so did it leak any fuel?
Yes frequently. If the fuel is switched off and the air vent in the cap fully screwed down then you should not experience any leakage. If you do, there is a fault somewhere. Perhaps a leaking seal on the fuel tank screw cap. I keep the outboard stored in my cabin cruiser and a leak would be a serious matter.
@@tonytoller thanks for letting me know.
@@Lt.Fireguy I know this is a bit late and you have probably sorted you leak out now but hopefully it will help others. There is a small rubber washer, just like a tap washer, under the vent cap that perishes and allows fuel leakage. It costs less than £2 and the Honda part number is 17624-ZV0-000. A real easy fix that will keep you safe!
An excellent job mate
Thank you. Comments like that make it worth the effort.
Tony well done excellent video
Thanks Paul...
Looks cheap...chinese made
I have used this engine and its works like junk when going against the current. I like the brand but this 2.3 is just a toy, nothing more. Very disappointed and will put it on Craigslist.
It's only 2.3hp! What size boat are you trying to go against the current with? I have no issues with a four man dinghy.
@@tonytoller I have a Sea Eagle SE9 and that thing struggles to move forward when going against the current. May be I need to get a different inflatable. At least it is good to know that it is not the motor issue as it is working great for you.
What are the product you initially poured in the tank(Meths??) and the spray in the red squirt bottle?
Yes I flushed the tank with meths and the red stuff is Duck OIl made by Swarfega. Leaves a protective film. Brilliant stuff - you can spray it all over an engine and it has no detrimental effect on rubber belts, electrics or anything else. But it does keep rust and corrosion at bay.
Sorry, a bit naive on my part....what is meths?
Methylated Spirits. Available most hardware stores, usually magenta in colour. Evaporates very quickly leaving no residue.
@@michaelmartin2257 In the USA we call it denatured alcohol (which is ethanol spirits made poisonous with methyl alcohol).