My regular bench looks just as messy as yours, but I would never dismantle anything as complex as that on my regular bench. Guaranteed to lose parts. Whenever I do a project like that, I set up sort of a virgin area somewhere else and have multiple containers ready to hold parts.
There's more to the pump/motor there's also little metal round discs called seats that go in the pins of the block. I used to build these at hydro gear
I just ran across these videos... I didn't even recognize you at first! Lol, I had to look at the name of the channel 😂 I didn't realize you were making videos when you were 15! 😂
Thanks for the thorough videos on this... made me not afraid to tackle mine. How do I determine if that inside pump housing needs to be replaced. I"ll check both pumps with calipers but you didn't mention how to determine about that third part.
If it leaks when you put it back in use some plumbing pipe tape. That should seal the threads. Screw it in by hand as far as possible to prevent cross threading. Thanks for the offer. _Moe
Recap: belt broke and you tried to engage bypass to push it. Stuck bypass stripped. Oh... I thought you were able to remove it. You can always buy the new part so you can see how it works or just screw it back in and put a belt back on it and go. It sounds like it is just stuck in the drive position which is better than being stuck in free wheeling. There is a seal to keep it from leaking that is why fluid isn't dripping out. So metal shavings shouldn't be able to get back into the fluid.
A hydrostatic is like an automatic in a car and the other type is like a manual transmission in a car. Most of the time you tractor will say Hydro on it if it has a hydrostatic transmission. It also wont have gear numbers. If yours has a 1 2 3 4 5 N R or similar you have a geared transmission instead of a hydrostatic. Unfortunately most riding mowers are Junk when the transmission fails.
I use old cardboard boxes (cereal boxes, cookie boxes, etc), draw a sketch of the part i'm removing on the side of it and then punch holes in it for each bolt I remove. Makes re-assembly easy and I know which bolts go where.
They're all a little different but the principles are the same. You should be able to google a parts breakdown of your tranny to see exactly how it is put together. What brand of riding mower is it?
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
I would spray it down with penetrating lube and then try. I'm wondering if the right hydro unit is locked up and that is why you lost your drive belt to begin with. You should be able to turn the belt pulley by hand.
cecil : It seems to me that once you have dis-assembled the trans that it would be a good idea at the time to drill and tap a drain hole so you could change the trans oil in the future without having to remove trans . What say you?
The trans can be drained regularly by removing the 2 Allen bolts and pulling the little block off the bottom. Not as easy as a drain plug but pretty close. The issue I see with installing a drain plug is the thickness of the case or lack there off. Virtually anywhere you put a hole would only be 1/8" aluminum which would fracture or just not give enough threads for a drain plug to hold sufficiently .
Thanks. I am considering buying the Poulan Pro PBGT2654 as it has the G730 Hydo Gear transmission, and it is serviceable. What are your thoughts of using 20w-50 full synthetic racing motor oil with high zinc content?
Full synthetic with high zinc content. In WWII, it was discovered that the Nazi military tanks in the desert out lasted the American tank buy a considerable margin . After capturing Nazi Panzer tanks, their oil was analyzed. They used synthetic gear oil with high zinc content as a non-scuffing agent.
themanshere74 In extreme situations yes but you'll never put through these conditions mowing a lawn. If I was driving a tank I would have it full throttle, pedal to metal all the time and definitely test the performance of any oil. There is a reason it is designed for racing because it holds up under extreme pressures and extreme heat. It definately has it's place I just think it is overkill for anything but racing and you'll never see the rewards for spending more of your hard earned money. Oil Marketing is a lot of fast talking to get your money. community.seattletimes.nwsource.com/archive/?date=19960629&slug=2336807
Around these parts you would be hard pressed to get more than $400 for a riding mower. $200 in parts plus your time and the cost of the mower your working on. It would not take long before you would have more in it than its worth. Over the last few months I put together a mower for a family member. I put all new tires on $65 each for the back and $45 each for the two fronts. Plus new coil and rebuilt carb. Gas line , filters, Air filter All new blades and belts rebuilt the breaks and key switch. All together just over $350 in parts Not counting all the work I put into this. Or what I had in the mower. Then they went out and bought a new mower. So I put this one up for sale on Craigslist I listed it at $375. I got insults of $150 - $200. So I listed it on face book. about 2 months later a guy offered me $300. And I was hurting for money. We all have to do what we have to do to survive. I damn sure do not want to take another beating like this.
Just like cars, there are more expensive riding mowers than others. If I recall I sold this one for $1500 because it was a $2500-$3000 unit new. A clean basic el cheapo riding mower I can get $450(no bagger, cheap brand). Most riding mowers I buy have to look good. I will pass on junky looking stuff as it hurts the profit and would rather pay $50-$200 for a non running good looking unit than take a free junky one. I generally won't spend time on items that won't net me more profit(belts, blades, tires, etc). I only replace what is broken, what won't allow it to start/run flawlessly, and give it a spit shine so it looks new. Most riding mowers take me 1-5 hours and maybe $10 in parts to have them ready for resale.
would the plate where the small block is located be the lowest point to insure that most of the oil would drain out. If not what about a drain plug in the area to the left of the ring gear looking at the trans from the rear. I was watching as you were pulling trans a part and it looked as if there was ample room and thickness there . Also if I am correct isn't there a oil level plug on the right side half way up to check correct volume of oil.
Yes, the plate is the lowest part on the transmission and all the fluid would drain if you pull the 2 Allen bolts. I just did it through the top on the video as it is a bigger hole. Yes, there is a also an oil fill/full level plug. If someone really wanted to put a plug in; the easiest thing to be able to install a plug would be to drill a hole in the steel plate and then weld a nut over the hole. This would give sufficient threads for holding and sealing a plug.
Good stuff. Gonna attempt to re-build a hydro-static on a John Deere 116. Are you aware of any companies that sell internal parts for these transmissions? It seems the only parts through J.D. , is to buy the whole drive mechanism for $1,000.
Ten Second BuickGN The hydro pump was made by Eaton and used in other tractors. See if you can cross the part numbers as stuff straight from John Deere is expensive. They have to make a hefty profit being the middle man. Here is a good PDF file that shows the guts of the Eaton (on a Wheelhorse) www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/ea7p1320_492-4003.pdf
Let me know how it goes. I know I sold a good working JD 116 hydro tranmsission 8 years ago on Ebay. The entire thing on got $250 with shipping so you may be able to just buy a used Eaton pump for a lot less.
sixtyfiveford It turns out to be a ball-piston design. After it warms up, it no longer moves in reverse and forward is slow. I tore the unit down and found a couple of the balls (1 in each carrier) to be sticking. Other than that, I really have no idea what to look for. These units go for around 500-700 and most tractors aren't worth that investment.
I would think that the piston clearance is excessive. Once the oil heats up it thins and looses it ability to seal. You can try running thicker oil. I would even consider 80w-90 gear oil.
I have a craftsman riding mower with the automatic transmission hydro, the drive belt broke and I replaced it. Now it won’t move forward or reverse.. if put in forward it seems like it try’s to move in reverse . It was slowing down I thought the belt was just slipping as I had to have the drive in a faster position than usual to go the same speed . Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I guess the pump has gone bad.
sixtyfiveford I drained the transmission oil , and it had a very small amount of aluminum particles.. nothing crazy though. I’ve never changed the filter or oil.. the transmission is dry ..has never leaked .. surprisingly as it’s old probably a 96
You keep saying oil in the transmission what kind of oil mine is a Poulan Pro a early 2000 I've had it almost 12 years and it just started doing this it won't go
Thanks for that. I've been told they're a bit delicate and if you try pulley swaps and they like they tend to die. I suppose it depends how hard you ride them though.
Yes, a pulley swap needs to be done in moderation. To much speed and the oil will create cavitation and not circulate. This will burn up a transmission.
can anyone PLEASE TELL ME where i can get the parts he listed in the video for a 95 kubota g1800. 3 cyl diesel . rear end "went out" on me today... just wouldnt go in reverse. i could hold the pedal and throttle it and it would grab for a few second and whine while it grabbed. then it would just roll. then grab again. then roll. but once i made it to a hill and started going up. it grabbed and stayed in until i hit flat ground again? what tha
just found out Husqvarna YTA24V48 not moving to good after the 4th party .....its barely going up hills now at all mostly flat , there was a wagon hooked up to it and people being pulled by dumb ass lil cousin anywho any pointer to look for tommr ???
zoltan the yta means you have a cvt automatic transmission. I believe it's a rs800 from general transmission. I don't know much about them but I think it will be easier to work on than a hydro tranny.
My regular bench looks just as messy as yours, but I would never dismantle anything as complex as that on my regular bench. Guaranteed to lose parts. Whenever I do a project like that, I set up sort of a virgin area somewhere else and have multiple containers ready to hold parts.
There's more to the pump/motor there's also little metal round discs called seats that go in the pins of the block. I used to build these at hydro gear
I have this same transmission. Glad to have a resource to help. Thanks for the video
Parts are not the easiest to find.
Thanks for having my back, Thanks for watching.
Never dreamed a basic lawn mower transmission would be so complicated. Wow.
Yeah, they have a lot going on in there.
Everything looked healthy good luck
Looking forward to watching
I just ran across these videos... I didn't even recognize you at first! Lol, I had to look at the name of the channel 😂
I didn't realize you were making videos when you were 15! 😂
It's been a while
Thanks for the thorough videos on this... made me not afraid to tackle mine. How do I determine if that inside pump housing needs to be replaced. I"ll check both pumps with calipers but you didn't mention how to determine about that third part.
If it leaks when you put it back in use some plumbing pipe tape. That should seal the threads. Screw it in by hand as far as possible to prevent cross threading. Thanks for the offer. _Moe
Recap: belt broke and you tried to engage bypass to push it. Stuck bypass stripped.
Oh... I thought you were able to remove it. You can always buy the new part so you can see how it works or just screw it back in and put a belt back on it and go. It sounds like it is just stuck in the drive position which is better than being stuck in free wheeling. There is a seal to keep it from leaking that is why fluid isn't dripping out. So metal shavings shouldn't be able to get back into the fluid.
A hydrostatic is like an automatic in a car and the other type is like a manual transmission in a car. Most of the time you tractor will say Hydro on it if it has a hydrostatic transmission. It also wont have gear numbers. If yours has a 1 2 3 4 5 N R or similar you have a geared transmission instead of a hydrostatic. Unfortunately most riding mowers are Junk when the transmission fails.
love your work bench . l know you know were everything is at
Too many projects with too little space.
I use old cardboard boxes (cereal boxes, cookie boxes, etc), draw a sketch of the part i'm removing on the side of it and then punch holes in it for each bolt I remove. Makes re-assembly easy and I know which bolts go where.
That's a good tip.
good stuff, you make it look easy
I do believe the big gear with the 4 gears inside is called a planetary gear that when engaged in different ways will give three forward speeds.
It is called a planetary gears and they go around the Sun gear. They are a fixed single speed and won't give any additional speeds/gears.
I use sandwich bags to keep the bolts and other parts together.
They're all a little different but the principles are the same. You should be able to google a parts breakdown of your tranny to see exactly how it is put together. What brand of riding mower is it?
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
Those are gear reduction planetary gears. Just weld the gears at 5:45.
I would spray it down with penetrating lube and then try. I'm wondering if the right hydro unit is locked up and that is why you lost your drive belt to begin with. You should be able to turn the belt pulley by hand.
Caravan 10 things
nice video series.
Thanks, I hope it helps.
Yep you got it. That's what the mess is, a bunch of parts that went flying around and I thought to myself... Self, lets Fuggetaboutit.
Personally, from how you describe, it I would reuse it.
good thing about meddel and oil it will never rust
Most likely the linkage is seized in the housing and needs lube. Spray it down with wd-40 real good.
How did you make out on this?
Had this unit failed or were you just freshening it up?
Failed.
I put all of his Video to make it easy from 1-4 here: ruclips.net/p/PLu6UVmXTZzOi5BHqPtpqR9Tcn3NvDow6D
cecil : It seems to me that once you have dis-assembled the trans that it would be a good idea at the time to drill and tap a drain hole so you could change the trans oil in the future without having to remove trans . What say you?
The trans can be drained regularly by removing the 2 Allen bolts and pulling the little block off the bottom. Not as easy as a drain plug but pretty close. The issue I see with installing a drain plug is the thickness of the case or lack there off. Virtually anywhere you put a hole would only be 1/8" aluminum which would fracture or just not give enough threads for a drain plug to hold sufficiently .
What type of sealant did you use to seal the bottom plate? Did you purchase any seals also or did you re use the existing seals and O-rings?
I reused everything because nothing was leaking. I just took care taking it apart and back together. I just used a RTV sealant.
Dude, how do you work on such a cluttered work area?
It's not aircraft work. It's a basic mower, no need to spend more time cleaning the fixing.
would the transaxle be different if it drove on a shaft rather than a pulley
ok thank you
Are the springs weak over time? Is this why these transmissions slow down?
They slow down over time because the clearances wear larger. This allows oil to pass where it shouldn't normally.
@@sixtyfiveford agreed
Thank you for the detailed instructions. Do you know approximately how many hours your transmission lasted before it needed to be rebuilt?
themanshere74 Around 500 hrs.
Thanks. I am considering buying the Poulan Pro PBGT2654 as it has the G730 Hydo Gear transmission, and it is serviceable. What are your thoughts of using 20w-50 full synthetic racing motor oil with high zinc content?
In all honesty I don't think it matters what oil is ran the life of the hydrostatic drive will be virtually identical.
Full synthetic with high zinc content. In WWII, it was discovered that the Nazi military tanks in the desert out lasted the American tank buy a considerable margin . After capturing Nazi Panzer tanks, their oil was analyzed. They used synthetic gear oil with high zinc content as a non-scuffing agent.
themanshere74 In extreme situations yes but you'll never put through these conditions mowing a lawn. If I was driving a tank I would have it full throttle, pedal to metal all the time and definitely test the performance of any oil. There is a reason it is designed for racing because it holds up under extreme pressures and extreme heat. It definately has it's place I just think it is overkill for anything but racing and you'll never see the rewards for spending more of your hard earned money. Oil Marketing is a lot of fast talking to get your money.
community.seattletimes.nwsource.com/archive/?date=19960629&slug=2336807
Around these parts you would be hard pressed to get more than $400 for a riding mower. $200 in parts plus your time and the cost of the mower your working on. It would not take long before you would have more in it than its worth. Over the last few months I put together a mower for a family member. I put all new tires on $65 each for the back and $45 each for the two fronts. Plus new coil and rebuilt carb. Gas line , filters, Air filter All new blades and belts rebuilt the breaks and key switch. All together just over $350 in parts Not counting all the work I put into this. Or what I had in the mower. Then they went out and bought a new mower. So I put this one up for sale on Craigslist I listed it at $375. I got insults of $150 - $200. So I listed it on face book. about 2 months later a guy offered me $300. And I was hurting for money. We all have to do what we have to do to survive. I damn sure do not want to take another beating like this.
Just like cars, there are more expensive riding mowers than others. If I recall I sold this one for $1500 because it was a $2500-$3000 unit new. A clean basic el cheapo riding mower I can get $450(no bagger, cheap brand). Most riding mowers I buy have to look good. I will pass on junky looking stuff as it hurts the profit and would rather pay $50-$200 for a non running good looking unit than take a free junky one. I generally won't spend time on items that won't net me more profit(belts, blades, tires, etc). I only replace what is broken, what won't allow it to start/run flawlessly, and give it a spit shine so it looks new. Most riding mowers take me 1-5 hours and maybe $10 in parts to have them ready for resale.
your workbench looks like mine.
Yours looks awesome as well?
Might look like a disaster to someone else. But everything has its place.
LOLLL like mine too
zoltan it's the only way I can find anything. Right?
people see clutter , = there just not using the OCD methodical organization skills eye view LOL
what about at 5:30 the four smaller gears indside of the larger gear that lock the spider gears together
I compliment and an insult in the same breath. Thanks I guess.
I’m assuming you measure play in the pump/motor to determine if it’s within spec or not... where do you find these specs?
You won't find any specs, anywhere.
ok thanks
would the plate where the small block is located be the lowest point to insure that most of the oil would drain out. If not what about a drain plug in the area to the left of the ring gear looking at the trans from the rear. I was watching as you were pulling trans a part and it looked as if there was ample room and thickness there . Also if I am correct isn't there a oil level plug on the right side half way up to check correct volume of oil.
Yes, the plate is the lowest part on the transmission and all the fluid would drain if you pull the 2 Allen bolts. I just did it through the top on the video as it is a bigger hole. Yes, there is a also an oil fill/full level plug. If someone really wanted to put a plug in; the easiest thing to be able to install a plug would be to drill a hole in the steel plate and then weld a nut over the hole. This would give sufficient threads for holding and sealing a plug.
Good stuff. Gonna attempt to re-build a hydro-static on a John Deere 116. Are you aware of any companies that sell internal parts for these transmissions? It seems the only parts through J.D. , is to buy the whole drive mechanism for $1,000.
Ten Second BuickGN The hydro pump was made by Eaton and used in other tractors. See if you can cross the part numbers as stuff straight from John Deere is expensive. They have to make a hefty profit being the middle man. Here is a good PDF file that shows the guts of the Eaton (on a Wheelhorse) www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/ea7p1320_492-4003.pdf
sixtyfiveford Thank you so much. I greatly appreciate it.
Let me know how it goes. I know I sold a good working JD 116 hydro tranmsission 8 years ago on Ebay. The entire thing on got $250 with shipping so you may be able to just buy a used Eaton pump for a lot less.
sixtyfiveford It turns out to be a ball-piston design. After it warms up, it no longer moves in reverse and forward is slow. I tore the unit down and found a couple of the balls (1 in each carrier) to be sticking. Other than that, I really have no idea what to look for. These units go for around 500-700 and most tractors aren't worth that investment.
I would think that the piston clearance is excessive. Once the oil heats up it thins and looses it ability to seal. You can try running thicker oil. I would even consider 80w-90 gear oil.
Have you ever considered cleaning off your bench before you do a precision job like working on a transmission? 🙄
At 5:15 those are planetary gears.
How do you know the pump parts are worn out? 250.00 and put the trans axle back together and it still does not work?
don doerner By measuring them with a caliper. There isn't much that can go wrong that isn't easily diagnosed.
oh ok thanks
I have a craftsman riding mower with the automatic transmission hydro, the drive belt broke and I replaced it. Now it won’t move forward or reverse.. if put in forward it seems like it try’s to move in reverse . It was slowing down I thought the belt was just slipping as I had to have the drive in a faster position than usual to go the same speed . Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I guess the pump has gone bad.
The pump could have seized and that is why your drive belt broke originally.
sixtyfiveford I drained the transmission oil , and it had a very small amount of aluminum particles.. nothing crazy though. I’ve never changed the filter or oil.. the transmission is dry ..has never leaked .. surprisingly as it’s old probably a 96
that's exactly what i was thinking......what a mess
Dude, you need to tidy your bench! Hard to see what is going on. :-)
If you just need the bypass kit it is only $20 (2513030)
Dude you need a bigger shop!!!
Do you know a Place that might rebuild one of these for me? Do you do such a thing?
The problem is finding parts. Second the cost to pay someone to rebuild it generally out weighs the cost of buying a new on.
do u know how to lock a hydrostatic differential
How does that drive? That's not a turbine!
Where is part 3 ?
ruclips.net/video/o46FYudtAuc/видео.html
You keep saying oil in the transmission what kind of oil mine is a Poulan Pro a early 2000 I've had it almost 12 years and it just started doing this it won't go
Look up your model on Google. This model and a lot take 20w50 motor oil in the transmission but not all do.
Do you know if there's any way to modify these to get more speed?
big ian Bigger tires will give you more speed. So will a smaller pulley on the top.
Thanks for that. I've been told they're a bit delicate and if you try pulley swaps and they like they tend to die. I suppose it depends how hard you ride them though.
Yes, a pulley swap needs to be done in moderation. To much speed and the oil will create cavitation and not circulate. This will burn up a transmission.
Big Ian Builds diagram Chevy trail blazer engine
can anyone PLEASE TELL ME where i can get the parts he listed in the video for a 95 kubota g1800. 3 cyl diesel . rear end "went out" on me today... just wouldnt go in reverse. i could hold the pedal and throttle it and it would grab for a few second and whine while it grabbed. then it would just roll. then grab again. then roll. but once i made it to a hill and started going up. it grabbed and stayed in until i hit flat ground again? what tha
Sounds like you're low on fluid.
NICE> free info and you have to find something to complain about. Typical...
its a cub cadet 2135
just found out Husqvarna YTA24V48 not moving to good after the 4th party .....its barely going up hills now at all mostly flat , there was a wagon hooked up to it and people being pulled by dumb ass lil cousin anywho any pointer to look for tommr ???
zoltan the yta means you have a cvt automatic transmission. I believe it's a rs800 from general transmission. I don't know much about them but I think it will be easier to work on than a hydro tranny.
Yeah, don't buy a hydro transmission.
id buy a simpler machine to work on, thats far to much work..!
we can not ear what you are say dude need to fix your mic!!this sucks!!!!!!