@gregbloch2765 Depends on how much of a rip-off artist the Mechanic is.... I just bought both of those fittings of Amazon $33 Ac- Delco. Half hour labour charge is in order max.
Just did this on a 2011 JL Wrangler to replace rusted/leaking lines with new ones. Couple things I learned: 1) Old rusted lines at press in fittings don’t allow a quick disconnect tool to work (had to use two picks). 2) To get clips out manually, had to soak clips/fittings in PB blaster and work them to loosen the clips. 3) Scraped out the fitting edges for a while around the line press fit to get rust out and PB blasted again. 4) used one pick to press between line & clip bump out to push it outward so I could hook clip from outside with other pick. Longhandled needle nose pliers are a must for grabbing clips, etc on this job. Here’s where it got even harder…😢 5) after clip removal Fittings at radiator were rusted in place and would NOT come out… Kept at them with PB blaster and grabbing metal line with Longnose pliers and cranking back and forth to eventually pull the lines free. Was tough and took at least 10 mins of wiggling forcefully while pressing outward on the line… PITA. I heard some people recommend cutting lines and using a deep so it to remove fitting body… my fitting body just spun near radiator as it seems like a compression fit at radiator tube… I didn’t want to mess it up so left it… spinning that fitting nut without cutting lines might help to break the rust free from the stuck line … but I just kept using the long handle needle nose and wiggling and pressing til it eventually popped out. Removing lines at trans much easier. 6) Had to do some slight bending of the new lines to get them in correct shape and fit so they didn’t rub on anything or each other and didn’t have odd angles or tension when fitting them into the clip fittings… you want the line end to push straight in and pop in all the way so the clips can be installed and hold get in front of the line end flanges so the lines wont pull out. Test pull these after you get the clips reinstalled. 7) Reinstalling clips was sorta a pain because you had to make sure the lines were fully seated so the clips got in front of the line flanges to hold them in… the clips have 3 bumps or spots the snap in to holes on the fitting clip channel. Hard to see but the center clip goes into the short hole (channel) and the end of clip slide into the longer channel hole openings. 8) Test pull on line and make sure clips are fully seated into fitting as evidence by clips being full down into the channel and not protruding (needle nose to make pure they are pressed down fully.. if not the line flange may not be all the way pressed in - must press in straight which might require a slight line bending). 10) once all closed in a pull tested, start engine and check for leaks. 11) no leaks push plastic cover back over clip fittings (might need to use a bent nose long handled needle nose pliers as I had to put tip on either side of plastic cover and give it a hammer bump to get covers to seat fully. 12) Install line plastic retaining guides so lines don’t rub on anything or each other, hit anything or press against any other parts. 13) replace the amount of fluid you caught in pan when you pulled lines.
Tip for 98 s10, the upper fitting on the trans is really really tight. I unbolted my flex pipe to give me room and will be unbolting the cab on that side and will jack up the cab to give me room for a ratchet. I have to weld in a new cab mount anyways so might as well do it all at once. Also for some of the fittings I used a sawzaw to cut the line that wouldn’t come out, in order to get a socket or box end of the wrench on. Used pb blaster for a long time. Supported the radiator with a wood block since my mount was rusted. And slowly slowly torqued the fitting of as to not crack the plastic radiator. If you can spray pb on the fittings days in advance.
Kinda forgot to tell us to put the clips in first cuz on mine, I didn’t. And now I can’t get them on. So it’s a good thing I didn’t know what I was doing wrong til I saw how you didn’t tell us how to do it right so thanks!
Did you not watch the whole video? you see he has the clips in as he pushes the line in clear as day at the 3:00 mark. It’s the whole point of the quick connect fitting to be able to do that… same as fuel line quick connectors and so on…
@@peterm3333 thank you sir the exact same thing happened to my father’s Dodge Magnum, a decade or so ago and it felt exactly like that. I appreciate your knowledge and input. God bless happy holidays.
Great video. I'm working on a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 but it's probably a very similar set up. I will find out when I get under the vehicle later today. Thanks for the information.
How much transmission fluid needs to be put back in after changing that same fitting? Does a lot come out when changing a new quick connect fitting? Just wondering how many quarts I need to buy before doing this.
Took me 5 hours to do that today on the lower Inlet. 2013 Acadia Denali. Couldn't get the clip (3 flew away) in the nut. New clips assortment $18.00 Yes, I had a Pick. Wasn't sure that fitting came out of the rad. I ended up putting the pipe in then the clip. Put a small rad clamp on it just to be sure.
Thanks for the video!! Just changed both of them on the trany and no more leaks! And it was easy. Get you a cheap set of picks, makes getting the clips off easy.
That's the way to do it straight to the Point, but you left out a very important step. You gotta put the o ring back onto the fitting before you slide it on there. You can't just assume people know that
The oring's can be replaced Iv'e done it many times to many different Chevy models this will save you alot of money if you were to replace all the fittings on the vehicle. Its about 30 bucks for oil and trans cooler fittings as opposed to under a dollar for the orings.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I have a question, in my Dodge Avenger 2008, one of the cooler lines just disconnected it self from the fitting and all the transmission fluid spilled out... then I bought some universal o-rings and installed the metal line back into the fitting, and of course pour more transmission fluid. So the question is, is there some chance to the metal line to disconnect again from the fitting???, do you recommend to change the whole cooler line?
Man those fittings are garbage. Some engineer needs to take himself out back and commence the beating of a lifetime for wasting everyones time and money - as fancy as he got, he didn't find ten seconds of greater reliability over an old npt/hosebarb style fitting. I think the el cheapo compression fittings I use under my kitchen sink are quicker than that [and they probably last longer too].
Buenas noches como se llama la pieza que cambia me acaba de derramar todo el liquido el silverado 2001 y quedo neutralizado lo apague inmediatamente y mañana quiero cambiarlos y rellenar de aceite ala transmisión
Ok well I haven't got up under it yet but looks like it's leaking there an that's only place I see leak as it's over heating nothing in oil showing head bad
This looks like the Chevy Uplander minivan I need to look at. The hex bolts aren't bad the hose itelf has excess leak downline where metal coupling meets nylon hose.-As far as removal, can I just unbolt the hexes on each end and transfer them to new hose separately on the bench or do I HAVE to unclip hose before removing hex's?-(Also had a different Buick that the A/C was leaking, compressor good but one hose had same metal pipe coupling into rubber hose, so shows what GM knows about making their inline metal to rubber couplings durable.....)(and of course it was an all-in-one hose ASSEMBLY so even though only high side hose was leaking, it took the perfectly good low side hose with it, more GM logic)
Because im having a leak problem probably with the same thing so i was about to buy whole new lines but if i can replace the fitting that would be alot easier
Everybody that I know that got an Impala said they car was a piece of $h*t. But for what it's worth that was a great video and it's not your fault you're working on a piece of $h"t car.
Why don't they just have male female screw on fittings this clip b.s. is stupid design.would change out hose fittings at bottom of radiator hard to get to plus attached to plastic radiator don't want to crack pain in the ass😡
perfect video. I love it when people just start working right away, and save the talking for as they work.
How much would this cost in labor
@gregbloch2765 Depends on how much of a rip-off artist the Mechanic is.... I just bought both of those fittings of Amazon $33 Ac- Delco.
Half hour labour charge is in order max.
Thank you for keeping it quick and to the point. Too many guys want to tell u their life story. 😅
Just did this on a 2011 JL Wrangler to replace rusted/leaking lines with new ones. Couple things I learned:
1) Old rusted lines at press in fittings don’t allow a quick disconnect tool to work (had to use two picks).
2) To get clips out manually, had to soak clips/fittings in PB blaster and work them to loosen the clips.
3) Scraped out the fitting edges for a while around the line press fit to get rust out and PB blasted again.
4) used one pick to press between line & clip bump out to push it outward so I could hook clip from outside with other pick. Longhandled needle nose pliers are a must for grabbing clips, etc on this job.
Here’s where it got even harder…😢
5) after clip removal Fittings at radiator were rusted in place and would NOT come out… Kept at them with PB blaster and grabbing metal line with Longnose pliers and cranking back and forth to eventually pull the lines free. Was tough and took at least 10 mins of wiggling forcefully while pressing outward on the line… PITA. I heard some people recommend cutting lines and using a deep so it to remove fitting body… my fitting body just spun near radiator as it seems like a compression fit at radiator tube… I didn’t want to mess it up so left it… spinning that fitting nut without cutting lines might help to break the rust free from the stuck line … but I just kept using the long handle needle nose and wiggling and pressing til it eventually popped out. Removing lines at trans much easier.
6) Had to do some slight bending of the new lines to get them in correct shape and fit so they didn’t rub on anything or each other and didn’t have odd angles or tension when fitting them into the clip fittings… you want the line end to push straight in and pop in all the way so the clips can be installed and hold get in front of the line end flanges so the lines wont pull out. Test pull these after you get the clips reinstalled.
7) Reinstalling clips was sorta a pain because you had to make sure the lines were fully seated so the clips got in front of the line flanges to hold them in… the clips have 3 bumps or spots the snap in to holes on the fitting clip channel. Hard to see but the center clip goes into the short hole (channel) and the end of clip slide into the longer channel hole openings.
8) Test pull on line and make sure clips are fully seated into fitting as evidence by clips being full down into the channel and not protruding (needle nose to make pure they are pressed down fully.. if not the line flange may not be all the way pressed in - must press in straight which might require a slight line bending).
10) once all closed in a pull tested, start engine and check for leaks.
11) no leaks push plastic cover back over clip fittings (might need to use a bent nose long handled needle nose pliers as I had to put tip on either side of plastic cover and give it a hammer bump to get covers to seat fully.
12) Install line plastic retaining guides so lines don’t rub on anything or each other, hit anything or press against any other parts.
13) replace the amount of fluid you caught in pan when you pulled lines.
you are awesome! straight to the point and showed me exactly what I needed to know and didn't waste anytime. very much appreciated
Thank you very much that was exactly what I wanted to see you're still helping 3 years later great job
P
4 years now for me!
Tip for 98 s10, the upper fitting on the trans is really really tight. I unbolted my flex pipe to give me room and will be unbolting the cab on that side and will jack up the cab to give me room for a ratchet. I have to weld in a new cab mount anyways so might as well do it all at once.
Also for some of the fittings I used a sawzaw to cut the line that wouldn’t come out, in order to get a socket or box end of the wrench on. Used pb blaster for a long time. Supported the radiator with a wood block since my mount was rusted. And slowly slowly torqued the fitting of as to not crack the plastic radiator.
If you can spray pb on the fittings days in advance.
Kinda forgot to tell us to put the clips in first cuz on mine, I didn’t. And now I can’t get them on. So it’s a good thing I didn’t know what I was doing wrong til I saw how you didn’t tell us how to do it right so thanks!
Did you not watch the whole video? you see he has the clips in as he pushes the line in clear as day at the 3:00 mark. It’s the whole point of the quick connect fitting to be able to do that… same as fuel line quick connectors and so on…
If these are leaking would it cause a pressure issue?
Mine drips and sometimes I get semi-hard shifting.
Yes it can. As the fluid leaks by the ring, it also allows pressure to escape and possibly causing shifting issues.
@@peterm3333 thank you sir the exact same thing happened to my father’s Dodge Magnum, a decade or so ago and it felt exactly like that. I appreciate your knowledge and input. God bless happy holidays.
Thank you for posting this video it was a big help couldn't have gotten it done without it
So the ring don't go back around the quicken connect when you put the new ones in?
What part number is the quick connect to the transmission?
Are these fittings the same as the ones on the radiator for the transmission cooling lines?
Great video. I'm working on a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 but it's probably a very similar set up. I will find out when I get under the vehicle later today. Thanks for the information.
How much transmission fluid needs to be put back in after changing that same fitting? Does a lot come out when changing a new quick connect fitting? Just wondering how many quarts I need to buy before doing this.
wouldn't it be cool if he mentioned the transmission and auto in this vid? is this a 4l60e?
Took me 5 hours to do that today on the lower Inlet. 2013 Acadia Denali. Couldn't get the clip (3 flew away) in the nut. New clips assortment $18.00 Yes, I had a Pick. Wasn't sure that fitting came out of the rad. I ended up putting the pipe in then the clip. Put a small rad clamp on it just to be sure.
Thanks for the video!! Just changed both of them on the trany and no more leaks! And it was easy. Get you a cheap set of picks, makes getting the clips off easy.
That’s a peck
Will the transmission act up again after doing this ?
Did he put the clip back on?
That's the way to do it straight to the Point, but you left out a very important step. You gotta put the o ring back onto the fitting before you slide it on there. You can't just assume people know that
The oring's can be replaced Iv'e done it many times to many different Chevy models this will save you alot of money if you were to replace all the fittings on the vehicle. Its about 30 bucks for oil and trans cooler fittings as opposed to under a dollar for the orings.
Ryan Shepard cause it’s a 6 dollar fitting 😂 jus change the whole thing
@@drzg2640 lol and it takes more work to replace just the o-ring lol
What do you do when that line is leaking ? O ring ?
Thanks man, I was up shits creek until I saw this!
I’m glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I have a question, in my Dodge Avenger 2008, one of the cooler lines just disconnected it self from the fitting and all the transmission fluid spilled out... then I bought some universal o-rings and installed the metal line back into the fitting, and of course pour more transmission fluid. So the question is, is there some chance to the metal line to disconnect again from the fitting???, do you recommend to change the whole cooler line?
best bet for you buy a Bus ticket
Thank you 🙏 so much this save me a lot of time God Bless you bro
Awesome sounds good. Thank you for sharing! If you haven't already done so, please consider becoming a subscriber.
Thanks for a great video Thank you from Canada
Thank you boss I'm going to get at it right now
Did it work?
Why was it so hard to take the fittings out of the radiator, and put them back into the radiator after following all the directions.
You don't need to do transmission oil change after this?
I didn’t change the oil.
Man those fittings are garbage. Some engineer needs to take himself out back and commence the beating of a lifetime for wasting everyones time and money - as fancy as he got, he didn't find ten seconds of greater reliability over an old npt/hosebarb style fitting. I think the el cheapo compression fittings I use under my kitchen sink are quicker than that [and they probably last longer too].
There was definitely a mechanic fucking the guy who designed this fitting’s wife.
I know!!! The pain is too deep.
Did the car end up leaking when you took it for a spin does it matter if it's a long thread or not?? Please get back to me
Mine started leaking on the radiator end and started spraying profusely. I wouldn't have noticed if it didn't hit the exhaust and started smoking lol.
Good catch!
Thanks for the vid man the only video I could find on this and definitely going to help myself out I appreciate this video
So when you put the new one on you not supost to take the clip off. The hose just slide in
Nice video. Well done.
Good video. Thanks for uploading.
Thank you for your positive feedback! Greatly appreciated.
Fits on gmc terrain?
Will topping off the fluid make the trans slip when doing this ??
What part number is the quick connect to the transmission
Is this different on a Chevy half ton 2 wd
Buenas noches como se llama la pieza que cambia me acaba de derramar todo el liquido el silverado 2001 y quedo neutralizado lo apague inmediatamente y mañana quiero cambiarlos y rellenar de aceite ala transmisión
what year and make was your vehicle?
Hello thanks for watching. The car in the video is a 2011 Chevy Impala LTZ 3.9L.
Same procedure for Hummer H3?
Will it over heat if this bolt is leaking an not tight
I’m sure it wouldn’t be good. The reason why I changed is because it started dripping on my driveway. I didn’t drive the car until it was replaced.
Ok well I haven't got up under it yet but looks like it's leaking there an that's only place I see leak as it's over heating nothing in oil showing head bad
Outstanding video. Thanks for the info. Exactly what I needed to know.
anyone have the part number for the other fitting he didn't show how to replace lol
I just wanted to know what does the "AF" stand for in the name of your channel?
Hello and thanks for asking! I’m interested in what your thinking it is?
As functional....
I can't find the oil cooler line online for my 99 intrigue
are you supposed to leave the grease in there?
Yes
So how do I get the new line back in if it doesn’t want to go in? And yes it’s the right size
This looks like the Chevy Uplander minivan I need to look at. The hex bolts aren't bad the hose itelf has excess leak downline where metal coupling meets nylon hose.-As far as removal, can I just unbolt the hexes on each end and transfer them to new hose separately on the bench or do I HAVE to unclip hose before removing hex's?-(Also had a different Buick that the A/C was leaking, compressor good but one hose had same metal pipe coupling into rubber hose, so shows what GM knows about making their inline metal to rubber couplings durable.....)(and of course it was an all-in-one hose ASSEMBLY so even though only high side hose was leaking, it took the perfectly good low side hose with it, more GM logic)
Hopefully this will solve my transmission leak problem!
Excellent explained Video
Is this the same for a 96 gmc sonoma?
How much fluid came out?
I would say little less than a quart came out when the line was disconnected.
So instead of replacing the entire line you just replaced the fitting??
Because im having a leak problem probably with the same thing so i was about to buy whole new lines but if i can replace the fitting that would be alot easier
ITS THE SAME FOR MONTANA 2005 ?
Hello. I don’t know if it’s the same. It could be similar. Thank you
Great video tks u have part number for Chevy impala 04 ls 3800 no super charger or Is Equal in both
Good one.
Thanks!
What torque?
At $495 I think I will do this. Any hoorahs would help.😀
Why does it have grease inside?
Everybody that I know that got an Impala said they car was a piece of $h*t. But for what it's worth that was a great video and it's not your fault you're working on a piece of $h"t car.
🔥🔥🔥
Hello thanks!
where can i find an elbow fitting ???
I have a 94 camaro 3.4 I dont see those clips
You can replace just the oring.
Great Video, Very Informative, THANK YOU!
Thank you.
Whats the name of that fitting
Those are engine oil cooler lines, not the transmission
No way ......Fuck sakes Thank You so much
I’m glad you found the video helpful. Thanks again for sharing!
Thanks, this helped!
Great video 💯👍🏿
I’ll never own one of the piles of garbage trucks ever again. Everytime I turn around this pos is leaking something.
Part number for clip?
I just had that done to my car today guy charged me $300 2008 Chevy Impala LS
Felicia For Real
He got you on the price.
I just changed Mine by watching this video and I know nothing about fixing cars.
Felicia For Real
This is the same process for 04 and 05
Thank you!
"Quick".... Nothing is quick... I hate rust..
Not in the southern states
👍
Why don't they just have male female screw on fittings this clip b.s. is stupid design.would change out hose fittings at bottom of radiator hard to get to plus attached to plastic radiator don't want to crack pain in the ass😡
What part number is the quick connect to the transmission?
What part number is the quick connect to the transmission
How much fluid comes out?
Thank you
What part number is the quick connect to the transmission