Paula from Mexico. Nice, I have maybe 6 Dem. plants. Didn’t know they get babies. Now I do & I will watch for them. They are all in vegetative growth right now. Thank you
very nice orchid. I have the Berry Oda on my wish list so sometime I will have one. I am like you that I would like a tube full of Berry. Have a great day and Hopefully you will be in your new home sometime soon.
I did actually think about leaving them on! Maybe when it's a bigger plant. I want a tub full of Berries! 😀 But I figure might be fun to grow them up and then do a giveaway 😀
I've only had my Berry Oda since December so I was getting a little concerned to see what looked like a developing keiki coming from the apex of one cane. I thought my use of systemics might be the cause of another mutation! So now I know it's common on these. I need an alternative to systemics as I'm not liking the weird results. Hope you've settled into the new home Annabel!
Keikis are extremely common on kingianum hybrids, as well as other Australian dendrobiums. Systemics are unlikely to be the cause for this particular event, I rarely use them personally, only had to once last year for thrips, and I tend to for new orchids after the thrips experience. Mainly I prefer neem since I don't have to worry about toxicity, but sometimes systemics are the only way to go. Neem oil is very good but probably not for greenhouse use unless you get a cooler, cloudier week, otherwise it'll fry your orchids. Alternatively, if you can get a colony to establish, predatory mites are great. I have lots living in my pots that I encourage, tend to only ever get spider mites now on stressed plants.
Thanks! Haha I've had so much going on recently I kept putting them off, which is a good thing really as they both have terminal leaves now, so hopefully will start new growths soon!
Hi Annabel! How is it going with the new house? Hope very well. Good to know that Berry Oda’s do well in semi hydro. Will definitely try that. Thanks for the info. Take care and keep us posted 👍🥂😘
Thanks Marco! It's mostly done on the orchid front and the new flooring, just need to start moving our actual stuff over now! I'm having to go over specifically to check the orchids now, so I think this is the worst stage unfortunately. We still have a month or so on our tenancy agreement at the old place, so we wanted to get the orchids out as the priority before we gave notice and they had to do viewings!
I have a sizable keiki growing on my nobile-type dendrobium right now, so I'll definitely be referring back to this video when its roots are long enough to sustain it. I was thrilled when I discovered two new roots poking out of it a few days ago, as it had only grown one until then. (The first root grew straight into a leaf, so it probably couldn't get any longer.)
They seem to like tucking roots into leaf joints, seeking out a bit more moisture probably! I also have a nobile type keiki I need to remove, but it seems to be growing a bit slower than these two did. It's right at the top of the cane though, so it only has so much room on the windowsill!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Kristopher Charles i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I debated leaving these on, maybe when the plant is bigger it would be fun to have a tiered tub of berries! Might also reduce airflow to the middle of the plant though... and could get annoying... I would like to grow this to a larger specimen, I've seen a few lovely large berry oda tubs and they look awesome!
Anyone know of a place to look for some of these for sale? I already have a kingianum but i wanted to try the berry oda but i cant find any for sale anywhere except the UK which i cant get because of their trade laws.
I'm really starting to question the use of the top layer in my environment, it seems to be quite detrimental for some of my plants (especially young laelias, but also trichopilias), even though my environment is barely above 50% relative humidity at the moment... I noticed that as soon as I introduced a pebble top layer, the new shoots did blacken and dry in a matter of days, while the problem stopped when I changed the pebbles for kanuma, which is clay and wicking (which is precisely the problem I had with LECA which was sucking humidity from the roots and made me introduce a top layer...), but kanuma as a top layer oddly seems to remain wet since its color remains yellow as long as there is water in the reservoir. I really don't understand the dynamics in play here, I can only guess that the kanuma maintains a humid ambiance above the surface of the pot which "pleases" the shoots where the pebbles favorize a too dry air....
Maybe something about your environment? My humidity is around 30% at the moment. Did you have any dry layer issues with straight LECA? You can only do what works for you, this works for me really well.
@@TheOrchidRoom straight LECA works well with epicattleya r. marques x c. shilleriana (but that one accepts pretty much everything I think) and with some epidendrums, but doesnt work well with fine rooted orchids such as trichopilias or dendrobiums (it dessicates the root tips as soon as they touch the top)... but kanuma should not act differently than leca since they both have rougthly the same physical properties (except the acidic side of the kanuma), which is why I don't understand that it seems to remain wet as a top layer, even if it had a higher wicking capacity, it would be limited by the limited wicking of the underneath leca feeding it... or perhaps I'm thinking in a totally wrong way and the blackening and drying of the shoots might not be a dryness issue but a fungal one that the acidic side of kanuma would be limiting? There are so many things I don't really understand, like how things work well in a certain way and then suddenly seem to have to be reverted to what was previously done and wasnt working back then :S... I need a new house I guess...XD
Kanuma is a smaller size though right? I have noticed the size of media as well as the size of the top layer can affect it's moisture retentiveness, as well as the ability to reduce evaporation. Also, I have found that small, polished aquarium gravel seemed to work better for my oncidiums and rupicolous laelias than the horticultural grit I started off with (seemed slightly porous and drying?), and a larger pebble worked better for larger rooted orchids. For the fussiest orchids, I've taken to actually using perlite as a top layer. Its absorbent and stays moist, but the algae formation and nutrient accumulation is terrible, much like seramis can be. But it stays moist enough to get new root tips down for my den harveyanum keiki, which was a real struggle, as well as for my seedlings. I haven't tried kanuma, but to me it seems that it may be similar to seramis or danish moler? I could be wrong on that. For seramis I never get dry layer issues due to its wicking efficiency and small size though, so I use seramis for oncis and rupicolous laelias mixed with leca, then the aquarium gravel top layer. Maybe a thick top layer of kanuma will work just as well, but then you may get algae forming on the top. Maybe it's worth mixing the kanuma with LECA, and then using a different top layer of polished pebbles if the algae becomes unbearable, because then the kanuma, like seramis or perlite, will be keeping a moist environment right up to the top.
@@TheOrchidRoom there are some finer parts, but most are on the 8-16mm grade, just like the leca. I use a mix 50/50 of leca and kanuma as a potting mix for the phaius and epicattleya R marqués in self watering pot without top layer, and pure kanuma for the pleiones (but then there are other tricks with those ones which are waterphobic at the beginning and then water loving, so I have to be careful to keep them barely moist until the leaves are half grown) . algaes don't seem to be much of an issue (perhaps they don't grow as well in the acidic environment?). I'd really like to understand the cause of the shoots blackening/drying though.
I would have thought algae wouldn't mind the acidic environment since they can grow easily on sphagnum moss. Maybe the Absorbancy capacity/ wicking efficiency of kanuma exceeds its evaporation rate for your climate, much like seramis (even large grade) does in mine. Since those are the factors that contribute to the extent if the dry top layer. I'm not sure why you would find root tips blackening, what pebbles were you using that caused root tip blackening? Thoroughly washed?
Question for you..... I’m thinking of expanding my collection. Besides phals, what in your opinion are the easiest orchids to grow? I would have to order it, because my local nursery’s only stock phals.
Well, this dendrobium berry oda is pretty much invincible! So I would say the berry oda is probably even easier than phals. Cattleyas are probably on the same level, the hybrids are super easy to grow and vigorous, probably my favourite orchid genera! And usually fragrant 🙂
I heard that maudiae-type paphiopedilums are pretty easy to grow, in addition to being attractive at all times of the year with their mottled leaves. And nobile-type dendrobiums are pretty easy as well, as long as you can give them plenty of bright light.
All very true! I find my paphs prefer more moisture and are a bit hit or miss for some people with semi-hydro, so depends how you're thinking of growing Mya 🙂 And Moebym is totally right on nobile types also being nice and easy. There are so many to choose from! I would also highly recommend jewel orchids like macodes petola if you like foliage plants 🙂 I grow mine in fine grade pumice. Beautiful plant.
Personal preference. If the plant is able to sustain, you can leave it on. The roots from multiple keikis growing on a second tier will reduce airflow to the centre of the plant, increasing chances of rot, and become very awkward to place on a shelf.
Paula from Mexico. Nice, I have maybe 6 Dem. plants. Didn’t know they get babies. Now I do & I will watch for them. They are all in vegetative growth right now. Thank you
Thanks Paula, yes the Australian Den's particularly are prone to this! Kingianum hybrids I think are the ones to watch for keikis! 🙂
very nice orchid. I have the Berry Oda on my wish list so sometime I will have one. I am like you that I would like a tube full of Berry. Have a great day and Hopefully you will be in your new home sometime soon.
You mean, you don’t want anymore Berry Odas? 😃 it’s fun to get keikis from a mother plant ... I love pulling them off and then growing them on 🥰
I did actually think about leaving them on! Maybe when it's a bigger plant. I want a tub full of Berries! 😀 But I figure might be fun to grow them up and then do a giveaway 😀
I've only had my Berry Oda since December so I was getting a little concerned to see what looked like a developing keiki coming from the apex of one cane. I thought my use of systemics might be the cause of another mutation! So now I know it's common on these. I need an alternative to systemics as I'm not liking the weird results. Hope you've settled into the new home Annabel!
Keikis are extremely common on kingianum hybrids, as well as other Australian dendrobiums. Systemics are unlikely to be the cause for this particular event, I rarely use them personally, only had to once last year for thrips, and I tend to for new orchids after the thrips experience. Mainly I prefer neem since I don't have to worry about toxicity, but sometimes systemics are the only way to go. Neem oil is very good but probably not for greenhouse use unless you get a cooler, cloudier week, otherwise it'll fry your orchids. Alternatively, if you can get a colony to establish, predatory mites are great. I have lots living in my pots that I encourage, tend to only ever get spider mites now on stressed plants.
Rather I admire your patience for waiting this long!
Thanks! Haha I've had so much going on recently I kept putting them off, which is a good thing really as they both have terminal leaves now, so hopefully will start new growths soon!
The Orchid Room I hear you. Moving eats lots of our time! I am still behind on some repotting!
Hi Annabel! How is it going with the new house? Hope very well. Good to know that Berry Oda’s do well in semi hydro. Will definitely try that. Thanks for the info. Take care and keep us posted 👍🥂😘
Thanks Marco! It's mostly done on the orchid front and the new flooring, just need to start moving our actual stuff over now! I'm having to go over specifically to check the orchids now, so I think this is the worst stage unfortunately. We still have a month or so on our tenancy agreement at the old place, so we wanted to get the orchids out as the priority before we gave notice and they had to do viewings!
I have a sizable keiki growing on my nobile-type dendrobium right now, so I'll definitely be referring back to this video when its roots are long enough to sustain it. I was thrilled when I discovered two new roots poking out of it a few days ago, as it had only grown one until then. (The first root grew straight into a leaf, so it probably couldn't get any longer.)
They seem to like tucking roots into leaf joints, seeking out a bit more moisture probably! I also have a nobile type keiki I need to remove, but it seems to be growing a bit slower than these two did. It's right at the top of the cane though, so it only has so much room on the windowsill!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow lost the account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Denver Francisco Instablaster :)
@Kristopher Charles i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kristopher Charles it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
Those Aussie Dens and their keikis. Mine don't produce a lot of them, though Jonathan's Glory has three on it but I'll leave them for now.
I debated leaving these on, maybe when the plant is bigger it would be fun to have a tiered tub of berries! Might also reduce airflow to the middle of the plant though... and could get annoying... I would like to grow this to a larger specimen, I've seen a few lovely large berry oda tubs and they look awesome!
A year later! How did they do? Loved this video
Mine has so many too!
Yay Keikis!
Anyone know of a place to look for some of these for sale? I already have a kingianum but i wanted to try the berry oda but i cant find any for sale anywhere except the UK which i cant get because of their trade laws.
What is the powder that you are using on the Keiki
I hope the textured wall is not the popcorn type that may contain asbestos - please be careful!
I'm really starting to question the use of the top layer in my environment, it seems to be quite detrimental for some of my plants (especially young laelias, but also trichopilias), even though my environment is barely above 50% relative humidity at the moment...
I noticed that as soon as I introduced a pebble top layer, the new shoots did blacken and dry in a matter of days, while the problem stopped when I changed the pebbles for kanuma, which is clay and wicking (which is precisely the problem I had with LECA which was sucking humidity from the roots and made me introduce a top layer...), but kanuma as a top layer oddly seems to remain wet since its color remains yellow as long as there is water in the reservoir.
I really don't understand the dynamics in play here, I can only guess that the kanuma maintains a humid ambiance above the surface of the pot which "pleases" the shoots where the pebbles favorize a too dry air....
Maybe something about your environment? My humidity is around 30% at the moment. Did you have any dry layer issues with straight LECA? You can only do what works for you, this works for me really well.
@@TheOrchidRoom straight LECA works well with epicattleya r. marques x c. shilleriana (but that one accepts pretty much everything I think) and with some epidendrums, but doesnt work well with fine rooted orchids such as trichopilias or dendrobiums (it dessicates the root tips as soon as they touch the top)... but kanuma should not act differently than leca since they both have rougthly the same physical properties (except the acidic side of the kanuma), which is why I don't understand that it seems to remain wet as a top layer, even if it had a higher wicking capacity, it would be limited by the limited wicking of the underneath leca feeding it... or perhaps I'm thinking in a totally wrong way and the blackening and drying of the shoots might not be a dryness issue but a fungal one that the acidic side of kanuma would be limiting?
There are so many things I don't really understand, like how things work well in a certain way and then suddenly seem to have to be reverted to what was previously done and wasnt working back then :S... I need a new house I guess...XD
Kanuma is a smaller size though right? I have noticed the size of media as well as the size of the top layer can affect it's moisture retentiveness, as well as the ability to reduce evaporation. Also, I have found that small, polished aquarium gravel seemed to work better for my oncidiums and rupicolous laelias than the horticultural grit I started off with (seemed slightly porous and drying?), and a larger pebble worked better for larger rooted orchids. For the fussiest orchids, I've taken to actually using perlite as a top layer. Its absorbent and stays moist, but the algae formation and nutrient accumulation is terrible, much like seramis can be. But it stays moist enough to get new root tips down for my den harveyanum keiki, which was a real struggle, as well as for my seedlings. I haven't tried kanuma, but to me it seems that it may be similar to seramis or danish moler? I could be wrong on that. For seramis I never get dry layer issues due to its wicking efficiency and small size though, so I use seramis for oncis and rupicolous laelias mixed with leca, then the aquarium gravel top layer. Maybe a thick top layer of kanuma will work just as well, but then you may get algae forming on the top. Maybe it's worth mixing the kanuma with LECA, and then using a different top layer of polished pebbles if the algae becomes unbearable, because then the kanuma, like seramis or perlite, will be keeping a moist environment right up to the top.
@@TheOrchidRoom there are some finer parts, but most are on the 8-16mm grade, just like the leca. I use a mix 50/50 of leca and kanuma as a potting mix for the phaius and epicattleya R marqués in self watering pot without top layer, and pure kanuma for the pleiones (but then there are other tricks with those ones which are waterphobic at the beginning and then water loving, so I have to be careful to keep them barely moist until the leaves are half grown) . algaes don't seem to be much of an issue (perhaps they don't grow as well in the acidic environment?).
I'd really like to understand the cause of the shoots blackening/drying though.
I would have thought algae wouldn't mind the acidic environment since they can grow easily on sphagnum moss. Maybe the Absorbancy capacity/ wicking efficiency of kanuma exceeds its evaporation rate for your climate, much like seramis (even large grade) does in mine. Since those are the factors that contribute to the extent if the dry top layer. I'm not sure why you would find root tips blackening, what pebbles were you using that caused root tip blackening? Thoroughly washed?
Question for you..... I’m thinking of expanding my collection. Besides phals, what in your opinion are the easiest orchids to grow? I would have to order it, because my local nursery’s only stock phals.
Well, this dendrobium berry oda is pretty much invincible! So I would say the berry oda is probably even easier than phals. Cattleyas are probably on the same level, the hybrids are super easy to grow and vigorous, probably my favourite orchid genera! And usually fragrant 🙂
I heard that maudiae-type paphiopedilums are pretty easy to grow, in addition to being attractive at all times of the year with their mottled leaves. And nobile-type dendrobiums are pretty easy as well, as long as you can give them plenty of bright light.
The Orchid Room Thank you!💚
Moebym Thank you!💚
All very true! I find my paphs prefer more moisture and are a bit hit or miss for some people with semi-hydro, so depends how you're thinking of growing Mya 🙂 And Moebym is totally right on nobile types also being nice and easy. There are so many to choose from! I would also highly recommend jewel orchids like macodes petola if you like foliage plants 🙂 I grow mine in fine grade pumice. Beautiful plant.
Could i kindly ask , is it possible to you to send one keiki please ?
I admire this type orchid 🥰
What kind of materials is it?
I want one!! 🥺
Where abouts are you Ian? If EU I could totally send you one!
The Orchid Room I live in Canada unfortunately 🇨🇦
Ah, that's a tiny bit far! Sorry 😥
Why you don’t have subtitles for all languages???????😢
Its necessary remove the keiki?
Personal preference. If the plant is able to sustain, you can leave it on. The roots from multiple keikis growing on a second tier will reduce airflow to the centre of the plant, increasing chances of rot, and become very awkward to place on a shelf.
@@TheOrchidRoom thanks, i have a keiki that gave me flower so when the flowers dies i will remove It from the mother plant
Sorry, I hope you find a nicer garden to buy from. The owner is a jerk.