I 100% love your intelligence... how you take on troubleshooting is more than impressive, genuinely! Much admiration! Slightly ocd& loving it! Details details details. Always improving and practicing. That mentality is what draws me most to your work and channel. Thank you so much for posting, truley it is encouraging( for myself anyway) thank you so much ! Seeing your work is inspiring! As I said before I truely mean that! How lucky we are you do what you do ! I love the " excitement" when intelligence rambles, inspirational!
Wonderful, Simon! Congratulations! Those pots were very lovely. I have a suggestion not based on experience with your type of kiln but with my kiln. Your shelves abutt the chimney tightly and I wonder if that is making the reduction (whatever amount you happen to get) be uneven. I had a similar problem and moved my shelves (not the bottom one) a bit away from the back wall and I got much more even reduction. Might that work for you? Also. Some people have advised me to start reduction at 1600 degrees f. You start your reduction much later. What is the reason to do one versus the other? And finally, What are the bc risks and advantages of a fast cool down (open damper and flame ports). I was always taught (very enigmatically) she shut her up right for a slow cool down. I know crystals need that to form but what are the other reasons. Sorry for the long comment. No need to answer if you are too busy. Again. Thanks for the joy and excitement.
When I fired my kiln which is almost identical to this I also had some problem getting up to temperature. I ended up putting a piece of ceramic blanket on top and it helped but when I added some height to the chimney it worked. I just stood some firebrick on end and added about 9 inches to it. With it then drawing a bit more I reduced the opening in the top slightly with a small piece of kiln shelf and got a petty good reduction. My chimney slot is a bit wider and narrower too. I wonder how much propane you went through. Thanks for showing your results!
Simon, thanks for making this series. It has been excellent following along as you trouble shoot. I have similar issues with getting my kiln to temp under reduction and got some useful tips from this.
Hi Simon, if you had a witness cone on the top shelf it would be interesting to know if it actually reached a cone ten or more. if that is what your lower cone was. Haven't invested in a pyrometer, trusting the cones to try and keep me straight. Those first two pots looked terrific in design and finish, you should be pleased for this first firing, even with the oxidation peeping out at you. Noticed the wiggle of the shelf before you picked it up, something I am in the habit of doing now after having a stilt stick to my shelf once. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Simon. How much of each for the kiln cement? no luck at all with commercially bought glue and cements. Shame you didn't find and gold but the pan did make a nice hat.
Can you elaborate on the homemade mortar mix? What are the rough proportions of brick dust to talc to china clay etc and about how much sodium silicate? Thanks
Simon I was laughing sooo hard at your comments starting @ 7:28 where you had the other local potter make mugs for you and you found them not to be quite up to standard. I think you were a bit hard on the person but it was funny to hear all the same. My sides were hurting from laughing at your comments on it. Great work on the kiln your videos have been very helpful and I fire oxidation in a converted electric to gas kilns. Keep practicing for sure!
I'm late to the party, but if you have to open the lid to get temp rise, the chimney needs to be a bit larger; it's choking. I had to do the same thing with an updraft barrel kiln I made and fired to cone 6-7 (I don't recommend that kiln, it's very uneven bottom to top). I did also find weed burners aren't as good as venturis - you don't have enough air and can end up pumping in way too much gas and not getting temp. I see Simon makes them work well in other vids, though, so it's not impossible. I think it's harder for beginners as I was then. I made some venturis very cheaply and they are pretty good
So you started at 2 in the afternoon, and finished at 2:30 am? Yowza! Very interesting. I'm dying to try this with an old electric kiln I have. What was the "donor kiln"? Dimensions? What's your burner? It LOOKS like a weed burner, but I kinda doubt it is.
@@keesjoosten7439 If you click on the link , my friend you will be taken to an automatic temperature converter I too am used to Celsius so if I want to know what a Fahrenheit temp is that's what I do.
Most likely not a good idea either,but what about adding extra spy holes that you could plug or not as you fired. My Skutt has 4 total that are spaced up the side of the kiln. Thanks for sharing your reasoning process. It’s really helps understanding the science behind the the “If I do this then this will happen” I have an old electric that I have been planning on converting to gas so your detailed video is so helpful. I seem to gravitate to the look of reduction pots. Thank you.
Did you see a saving on propane usage with the smaller kiln and what size tank did you use. I am presently converting the same size kiln to propane. Ted B.
If you’re looking for something that resists higher temp than that “high temp mortar” try looking at furnace cement. I believe it goes up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit
@@simonleach2647 There is a brand called “The Insulation King” that makes refractory cement that is rated to 2700°F. There is also another brand called “IPC” that makes refractory cement rated for 3000°F
After firing I let the kiln as is and don't close any burner ports or chimney flues, let the cool night air flow through kiln. It brightens up the colors nicely !
Not impossible. Wheather it is advisable is another matter. Do it without adequate ventilation and you might find yourself an "ex-potter". You won't be doing your heating elements any favours either... ruclips.net/video/tGQLp92XwNQ/видео.html
Not really if you want to be practical about it. If you do reduction by burning something you will damage the kiln elements. Convert your electric kiln to gas is the easiest and cheapest option.
I don't like the pots to break, all the biscuit tubs had there handles cracked and the nice double dipper also damaged. All these nice things damaged due to poor quality control 😮😮😮
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I am sick presently possibly on my way out. You pottery folk is my Daily Medicine for the soul.
Big bucket of shards. Good recycling ❤
I 100% love your intelligence... how you take on troubleshooting is more than impressive, genuinely! Much admiration! Slightly ocd& loving it! Details details details. Always improving and practicing. That mentality is what draws me most to your work and channel. Thank you so much for posting, truley it is encouraging( for myself anyway) thank you so much ! Seeing your work is inspiring! As I said before I truely mean that! How lucky we are you do what you do ! I love the " excitement" when intelligence rambles, inspirational!
Thanks for a great discussion on ox and redux visa vi the kiln itself. Can’t wait to see redux with the slot opening widened🙏
Wonderful, Simon! Congratulations! Those pots were very lovely.
I have a suggestion not based on experience with your type of kiln but with my kiln. Your shelves abutt the chimney tightly and I wonder if that is making the reduction (whatever amount you happen to get) be uneven. I had a similar problem and moved my shelves (not the bottom one) a bit away from the back wall and I got much more even reduction. Might that work for you?
Also. Some people have advised me to start reduction at 1600 degrees f. You start your reduction much later. What is the reason to do one versus the other? And finally, What are the bc risks and advantages of a fast cool down (open damper and flame ports). I was always taught (very enigmatically) she shut her up right for a slow cool down. I know crystals need that to form but what are the other reasons.
Sorry for the long comment. No need to answer if you are too busy.
Again. Thanks for the joy and excitement.
When I fired my kiln which is almost identical to this I also had some problem getting up to temperature. I ended up putting a piece of ceramic blanket on top and it helped but when I added some height to the chimney it worked. I just stood some firebrick on end and added about 9 inches to it. With it then drawing a bit more I reduced the opening in the top slightly with a small piece of kiln shelf and got a petty good reduction. My chimney slot is a bit wider and narrower too. I wonder how much propane you went through. Thanks for showing your results!
i know Im pretty randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Arjun Moses Flixportal =)
@Julian Braden thanks, signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it!!
@Arjun Moses no problem =)
Simon, thanks for making this series. It has been excellent following along as you trouble shoot. I have similar issues with getting my kiln to temp under reduction and got some useful tips from this.
Hi Simon, if you had a witness cone on the top shelf it would be interesting to know if it actually reached a cone ten or more. if that is what your lower cone was. Haven't invested in a pyrometer, trusting the cones to try and keep me straight. Those first two pots looked terrific in design and finish, you should be pleased for this first firing, even with the oxidation peeping out at you. Noticed the wiggle of the shelf before you picked it up, something I am in the habit of doing now after having a stilt stick to my shelf once. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Simon. How much of each for the kiln cement? no luck at all with commercially bought glue and cements. Shame you didn't find and gold but the pan did make a nice hat.
Can you elaborate on the homemade mortar mix? What are the rough proportions of brick dust to talc to china clay etc and about how much sodium silicate? Thanks
Just finished building my own gas kiln about 3 hours ago, just need a bit of nice weather and it's off to the races.
Florian smashed all his. Anger Venting👍
Simon I was laughing sooo hard at your comments starting @ 7:28 where you had the other local potter make mugs for you and you found them not to be quite up to standard. I think you were a bit hard on the person but it was funny to hear all the same. My sides were hurting from laughing at your comments on it. Great work on the kiln your videos have been very helpful and I fire oxidation in a converted electric to gas kilns. Keep practicing for sure!
Simon your AWESOME!!! Thx sooo much
Mr. Leach, you're a great professor here at RUclips University
I'm late to the party, but if you have to open the lid to get temp rise, the chimney needs to be a bit larger; it's choking. I had to do the same thing with an updraft barrel kiln I made and fired to cone 6-7 (I don't recommend that kiln, it's very uneven bottom to top). I did also find weed burners aren't as good as venturis - you don't have enough air and can end up pumping in way too much gas and not getting temp. I see Simon makes them work well in other vids, though, so it's not impossible. I think it's harder for beginners as I was then. I made some venturis very cheaply and they are pretty good
greetings Mr. Leach, i wanted to know what is the ingredients for your kiln cement and what are the proportions?
So you started at 2 in the afternoon, and finished at 2:30 am? Yowza! Very interesting. I'm dying to try this with an old electric kiln I have. What was the "donor kiln"? Dimensions? What's your burner? It LOOKS like a weed burner, but I kinda doubt it is.
Here's another question. Would the burners being held back too far? Cause too much oxygen to be dragged in with the flame? Could that be a problem?
And now having watch the rest of the video the question answered itself, LOL.
Dear Simon, could you if possible give temperature also in celcius?
Formula
(32°F − 32) × 5/9 = 0°C
www.rapidtables.com/convert/temperature/fahrenheit-to-celsius.html
@@andrewjacoby4475 Hello Andrew, thanks for your comment. Ik still have to work on the formula cause i am used to celcius and i am no math giant.
@@keesjoosten7439 If you click on the link , my friend you will be taken to an automatic temperature converter I too am used to Celsius so if I want to know what a Fahrenheit temp is that's what I do.
Very interesting. Could you also remove the pyrometer to let in more oxygen?
well in theory yes but i dont want to mess with the pyro as i need it to give me feedback on the temperature along the way . Greet the Aus potters !
Most likely not a good idea either,but what about adding extra spy holes that you could plug or not as you fired. My Skutt has 4 total that are spaced up the side of the kiln. Thanks for sharing your reasoning process. It’s really helps understanding the science behind the the
“If I do this then this will happen” I have an old electric that I have been planning on converting to gas so your detailed video is so helpful. I seem to gravitate to the look of reduction pots. Thank you.
I don't understand. Things break when you push the boundaries all the time.
Did you see a saving on propane usage with the smaller kiln and what size tank did you use. I am presently converting the same size kiln to propane. Ted B.
Yes much less gas consumption as I would expect being smaller and only one burner.
If you’re looking for something that resists higher temp than that “high temp mortar” try looking at furnace cement. I believe it goes up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit
..most i have seen go to 2000F
@@simonleach2647 There is a brand called “The Insulation King” that makes refractory cement that is rated to 2700°F.
There is also another brand called “IPC” that makes refractory cement rated for 3000°F
How do you slow your gas kiln after firing? I use kiln fabric in the burner but would love to know of a better way.
Its a cute kiln you made!
After firing I let the kiln as is and don't close any burner ports or chimney flues, let the cool night air flow through kiln. It brightens up the colors nicely !
@@simonleach2647 thank you ill do that
@@simonleach2647 i also wanted to ask if you are going to be making a video for the ceramic Congress community online?
Gosh you are being critical Simon, they look great! Your Cobalt looks more vibrant for some reason.
Critical ..maybe as needed...but yes i was pleased as it is a first firing. Coabalt brighter due to the oxidisation.
Simon put a half-round groove in your fire bricks the rope
Hello Simon
Do you know if it is possible to put an electric kiln into reduction without the conversion to gas?
Thanks
short answer no. long answer... look into using Saggars
Not impossible. Wheather it is advisable is another matter.
Do it without adequate ventilation and you might find yourself an "ex-potter".
You won't be doing your heating elements any favours either...
ruclips.net/video/tGQLp92XwNQ/видео.html
Not really if you want to be practical about it. If you do reduction by burning something you will damage the kiln elements. Convert your electric kiln to gas is the easiest and cheapest option.
I don't like the pots to break, all the biscuit tubs had there handles cracked and the nice double dipper also damaged. All these nice things damaged due to poor quality control 😮😮😮
what do you use to cut the kiln. Tool?
I think you mean what kind of saw ? to cut the brick ? ...any old saw that cuts that you dont mind sacrificing !
Keep it up ❤😂
The bud vases are a quick sell. U r a man you over push your limits. You could learn from Gatsby Florian. He gets great results. Great quality
Control