Metal Building Interior Finish
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Once your new metal building is erected, you're ready to attack the interior. An interior finish is a great way to make your new workshop or garage look great, as well as protecting and concealing the building's insulation. In this video, Chet Wilkins with Sentry Builders will demonstrate one of the practical options for finishing the interior of a pre-engineered metal building. This approach uses 4ft by 8ft sheets of ¾ inch tongue and groove plywood. These are fastened vertically to the red-iron framing members. This gives the inside of the walls a smooth finish as well as providing enough strength to hang shelves, tools, or a workbench. Another approach to finishing the walls would be to stand two by fours along the wall and attach them to the framing members to be used as studs for hanging sheetrock. This would look like typical interior wall of residential houses. However, we feel that using the ¾ in plywood is a great balance between the expense of materials and the overall usability since it goes up quickly and is very durable. Chet has also installed a 16 in deep shelf above the 2nd framing member at about 7ft 4in above finished floor. Simple to install and extra strong, just like the sheeting.
Metal Building Interior Finish
Why do you always see these great videos after you have struggled to find a solution to your problems? Thank you and I know now how to compleat my shop walls!
Looks like a nice finish for the interior of this building. We at One West Steel Builders did the same to a 16,500 sf ag building in CA. Something we did was order the building with the first girt at 4'H and the second girt at 8'H so you don't have to cut the plywood at 7'-6" and utilize the whole sheet. We also ordered the building with an 8" base channel instead of the standard base angle so we didn't have to attach 2 pieces of base angle.
Thanks for watching our video John Clericuzio. Your comment is a good one and in the cases when we know ahead of time that the owner plans to sheet, or have us sheet, the interior of the building, we do similarly. Good luck to you and your company.
I lined my shop with 3/4 plywood all the way to the eve. after it was sprayed with 2 inches of closed cell insulation. Very happy I did that first.
Learned more from your videos in a few minutes than all day at the other companies office
Having spent some 40 years in the trades I gotta say this guy impresses me. Not only does he know what he's talking about and is able to explain it so neophytes can easily understand, he seems 100% honest as well. That is NOT standard in the industry. Not much difference between metal buildings, homes or commercial structures, most contractors and suppliers are not inherently honest. I hate to say that, but experience has proven me right time after time. More often than not everyone wants to get every last penny they can, to the detriment of the end user. I believe in a FAIR profit as much as anyone. But a lot of these folks wanna get paid CEO wages for journeyman work. Chet seems to stray from that and respect his customers and THEIR needs. Sadly not too common.
Things are not always as they appear in videos .
Nicely done. I like the idea of keeping the plywood 1/2 inch off the floor. That stuff wicks like a sponge. Project looks great.
Been racking my brain over what to do with my shop and this is the perfect solution. Currently have drywall up but with this Houston humidity it's warping. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting @Oscar Lara. We are always glad to hear when our simple information videos are able to help others out. Good luck on your project.
That's a great point there at the end about sheetrock vs plywood walls
Glad you found the video useful @d610, thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow you are right that is a great point he made. I think that actually solves my own issues that I am facing.
Thanks for the tips!.....Planning on my dream garage, your so logical with the plywood vs. stick sheet rock.......please keep your suggestions coming......
It makes a big difference @Mark M, glad you found it helpful in your planning.
Well thought out and executed
I like the methodology. I'm doing mine but my first girt is almost 8 ft above the floor so I glued and screwed in 4x4 blocks under the girt every other 16" spacing and nailed the top plate to that and shot the 2x4 bottom plate into the concrete floor. Studded out 16 OC and covering with 1/2" plywood.
3/4" plywood is the way to go. If you're making a shop then sheetrock is nothing more than a pretty waste of money. And if you're worried about fire resistance, there is plenty of low cost do it yourself spray on fire retardants available. Just spray them on all sides and let dry prior to installation and you're safe.
The only thing I don't like is MDF, it's just crap. Use plywood. MDF sags like old boobs.
And lastly, if you're building a workshop, don't forget to run your air, 220v, and 3phase, around the sides before hand. It'll keep your walls clear and you'll have it available to easily tap into. I'm planning a build and when the interior is finished, all I want to see is the walls and some equally spaced 2 sets of outlets and air lines. The rest will be added on as need basis. It'll keep the long term update cost low. And that's more important for me since I plan only one big cost in the building and setup. But for now it's saving every penny and getting any needed materials that I can get for cheap or free ahead of time.
It depends on what you can do in your building but always remember this. You can go TALLER much more cheaply than wider or deeper. In my neck of the woods you can find used steel trusses and red iron cheap. So building a second level (for storage for example) becomes much more cost effective than a larger footprint. Think 20 foot eve height rather than 12 or 14.
Chet , thanx so much. you really helped me improve on finishing my metal bldg. the shelf is brilliant !
We're grateful to hear the video was helpful to you @Mr Guitar Who, enjoy your new building.
Exactly what I was planning with my new 20x25 metal garage.
Thanks.
We're glad it was helpful to you @Gary Haber, good luck on your project.
Thank you, I had considered buying a steel kit home to place in Alaska and was not sure how to attach interior walls to the girders. Good information here, I appreciate it.
We're glad you found the information useful @James Stepp. This process really finishes out the inside of our building and any clients we've done it for have loved it. Another option would be to use the same sheeting as the exterior, typically PBR or similar, on the interior. We completed a large agricultural building for a bee-keeper client using white sheeting/trim on the interior and it looked amazing when completed and is super easy to hose off to keep it clean.
Cheaper dirty quick way to do the electrical would be string romex (non metallic sheathed cable) ... (or the metal armored cable if that is code) into the void of new wall before putting up the plywood and leave a loop at each location you want an outlet. (or switch etc) then just cut holes in the plywood the size needed for old work boxes! You know the kind with ears normally used with drywall....well with 3/4 plywood it would be rock solid box mounts! Okay so the holes are cut right where you left the slack loop in the romex, simply secure the plywood, reach in and pull out your loops at each hole, cut the romex and install the old work boxes same as if in drywall You now have quick and easy flush mounted rock solid electrical installation! The only thing you get that is arguably less than with conduit is you lack the ability to pull new or more wire ...how many guys that would ever effect? hardly anyone....IF you DID want to allow for future you could lay in a piece of flex conduit behind the drywall with plenty of slack that ostensibly you could cut a box hole wherever in the plywood and fish it up to the hole and connect that to an old work box...note that the old work steel boxes are gangable meaning if you needed a larger box for a 50 amp receptacle or whatever, you gang two together to accommodate that device...easy peasy!
Great video. I have the same type of building and was wondering how I was going to attach my plywood around existing electrical. Lots of great ideas with the 2 x 4 angle on the floor as well as the MDF shelf running horizontal. Thanks again.
Great video! Pro-tips much appreciated.
Another great informative video. Thanks.
The 3/4" tounge/groove is a really good idea.
We're glad you found it useful @gordonfrank, thanks for watching.
Great Idea!!! Thanks for sharing. I will be utilizing this method in the near future.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting @The Tractor Den.
Thank you! it helps me with ideas. In FL. we are planning a 40x40x30 steel agribarn, but will stud with 2x6 , insulate everywhere with Ply like that, Paint. Intall a hydropower water wheel Genny, for low to no cost electricity. Install A/C inside it and Wallah!
hope you realize that BTU values only account for interior height up to 8 feet and you want to add a 1,000 for each additional height, or just as an experienced professional what size they recommend for your 1,600 square to 48,000 cubic foot space
Very nice. I’m finishing a horse barn and this will work nicely.
Glad you found the video helpful @Summerfield Farm and Draft Horses. We're so busy we don't have much time to put up content often , or to refine it real well, but we like to share some of what we've learned when we can. Best of luck on finishing up your project.
I myself would prefer a straight column, so there is no tapered column skewing out in the way as it goes up and eventually getting in the way of something, like say I decide to install a mezzanine living or storage space above and not limiting my storage layout choice as a tapered one will.
Very impressive spill!!!
You're welcome.
I very much like the idea of 3/4" tongue and groove for the walls in a workshop. Thanks for the video.
I am interested in building a 14'x60' RV garage. Not sure what the cost would be, but I would probably have to do it in steps.
I'm doing almost identical with my metal building, but I'm using 1/2" OSB. Spraying with a primer/sealer & painting white. I ran two separate circuits in each 4" electrical box (using romex behind the wall). I have no shelf on top, though. Have to think about that. The spacing off of the floor is a great idea. I'm doing .040" aluminum clad on the OSB where my welding stuff is.
I've been considering flat 2x4s placed vertically. $2.45 per 8ft length is $1.05/sqft while $30 4'x8' plywood is $0.94/sqft. Adding 1/4 tongue/groove for expansion and perhaps some backing wood could bring the cost up to $1.30/sqft but it's still within reason.
Interesting idea @p39483, thanks for watching and adding to the conversation.
Something you said caught my attention: You stated that the plywood was stood vertically, because the strength is with the grain. I thought the strength of plywood was that each individual layer that makes up the sheet of plywood has its grain perpendicular to the adjacent layers, thus giving it strength in both directions.
Yes ,but plywood usually is an odd number of plies ,making more plies running lengthwise.
HiTechDiver that's correct. But you have to lay the sheet across the frame members his frame members are horizontal, so his sheet goes vertical. That creates sheer strength.
he said the SEAM is vertical for that reason...
The highest strength is the grain on the outside plys, furthest from the center.
I absolutely love the way you've done this. It's so clean and convenient. Did you have to order the 3/4 T&G? Or is it available typically?
It works out really well @briansmobile1, we're glad you found it useful. Any big box construction store should carry it, or be able to get it in. If you have a local building supplier near you they may also have it at a better price or a better quality.
@@sentrybuilders5969 Thanks. No one has it in stock in the Salt Lake area and it's pricey. I'll see if I can source it through a building supplier.
you probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Baylor Benson Instablaster =)
@Yahir Gregory thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Love this video but unfortunately in 2022 it would be cost prohibitive to use plywood. I recently purchased one sheet of 3/4" B-C grade plywood it was $69.00 Do you recommend any alternatives? BTW I took the sheet of plywood back.
What did you end up doing ?
Excellent Video Chet. You do Nice Work...........
Another thing that could be done is the put the plywood even higher off the floor and use diamond plate about 8 inches up or so or you can buy rubber molding that can be glued on.
Nice video…thanks. Does the 3/4” plywood have enough strength to attach cabinets/heavy shelves to without having wood studs to attach to?
Thank you for sharing this.
Glad you found it useful @Roll Former.
Thank you!!
Very nice and very helpful 🌸
Glad we could be helpful to you @Denise D Rivers, thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing!
One wonders if you could just place a non wicking spacer under the plywood? I do like the idea of the floor supporting the weight. Great video.
That would be a perfect solution as well @David Baldwin, thanks for contributing that. We install extra fasteners along the bottom of the sheet to increase the strength of the connection to the base angle/channel, so the weight of the sheet is still being transferred to the floor, but as the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching.
my i beams are 30 feet apart, one at each corner, and my perlins are 8 feet up. If I use this method, what keeps the wall from falling forward if something heavy is hung from the wall. The perlin is thin metal and it holds up the metal walls.... I guess I see the entire wall collasping inwards. There is a lot of flex in the metal wall.
Purlins refer to the longitudinal, horizontal member in the roof. Girts for the longitudinal, horizontal wall members shown, You really should have done more research on the who you got the building structure from as it seems they short sold you and gave you a poorly designed/engineered structure, you should have at least two intermediary columns and roof beams. Seriously get a local steel engineer to inspect your structure, most do not offer such minimal primary structural support, unless you're not understanding what comprises the anatomy of such a structure and not knowing how to determine what is what that you are looking at.
so are mine. steel studs @ 16 oO.C. that is a STRONG wall. the shelf idea is brilliant.
Very helpful! Thank you!
Great vid thanks!
You bet! We're glad it was helpful to you @Jason Winters, thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you so much, that's exactly what I want to do!
I wish I could spend $30 a sheet of 3/4 plywood....
What kind of screws are best for the plywood to metal and keep it strong in place
I so want to do this in my 30x40. But damn it all I am afraid to ask about costs. 2022 prices are rough
What about setting the plywood on the inside of that angle? looks awesome..
Nice job👍
I like it! I am not a fan of finishing sheet rock, AND once wall board is finished you STILL have to paint the stuff. This looks like a much better and stronger solution. For my 40' x 60' building (hopefully built next year) I think that's around $1400 to finish out the entire inner perimeter of the building. Now if these guys just built in MONTANA!
Good video.......thanks!
Great info
That's a million dollars worth of plywood.
Looks good
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Use hat channels 16 on center. since they are screwed on in 2 places they act as sheer bracing and give more anchor locations for future projects. Yes, more expensive.
better to pay for more for stronger than something made cheap for less
nice! I might do this same thing but maybe make the shelf deeper on one wall only, not sure about going on all 3 walls we'll see
Glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching and commenting @PurerockRacing.
@@sentrybuilders5969 where do I get those 2x4 angle channels you used? They are just galvanized sheet metal correct?
@@PurerockSmokinBBQandMETAL The same steel supplier who we purchase from carries it, typically it is called base angle. It is the same angle piece they use to secure the exterior sheeting to, and when we know the owner intends to sheet the interior we have the supplier use base channel instead of the base angle, so you already have a fastening surface inside and out. While we usually use iron oxide coated steel, galvanized would be just as appropriate, even better if you anticipate it might get wet often. It is 14 GA 2x4 rolled angle, you could use standard 2x2 or 3x3 angle as well if so desired, it would just be more expensive. Good luck with your project.
Question. I have same wall set up as you and love the shop with the insulation. I’m looking at sheathing the walls to protect the insulation as well as hand cabinets and tools etc. I see you use 3/4 plywood. Would osb be strong enough for the same purpose ?
I'm kind of old school on this. I prefer plywood, it also paints better
that about a Pic of the final product
Is that Bill Bilichek?
Fraid not @joseph benson, would've been something if we'd been able to get him to record the video for us. Thanks for watching and commenting.
$30 a sheet. *Cries in Corona*
My plywood walls. I troweled drywall Mud very very thin , then painted , Everyone thinks
the shop has been drywalled !
I do miss 30$ for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch tong and groove plywood.
Great video! Where do you find the galvanized 4"x2" angle steel for the bottom plate? Is it 1/8" thickness? I'm trying to find something similar, but can't quite figure out what to search for or which supply house to call. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting @Benjamin Workman. The material we used is typically red oxide coated, not galvanized, but it doesn't matter which on you use. The material we use is 14 GA, 11 GA or 1/8" would be fine but heavier than necessary. Most any steel supplier that produces parts for steel buildings should carry it, it is typically called base angle.
@@sentrybuilders5969 Appreciate the reply! That's perfect, looks like I've got a couple of in town options for it. Thank you! One more question-- you raised the panels 1/2" off the ground, but will that affect the weight they can carry for tools and cabinets hung on them? I'd like mine not to touch the concrete either, but I"m afraid all the weight hanging just on screws might shear them off with downward force.
@@benjaminworkman3087 That's a good point and one we thought of, we used extra screws along the bottom to reduce that risk. You can butt them right against the concrete, but we like them elevated slightly so if you have any spills the liquid doesn't soak right into the plywood. Either way it probably doesn't matter too much, whatever seems to make the most sense to you, good luck.
@@sentrybuilders5969 I’ve seen some people put down 2x4 pressure-treated bottom plates instead of using base angle when building their walls. I would think that metal base angle would be more expensive but I have never priced it. I’m also curious why you used MDF for the shelves instead of more robust 3/4” plywood? Thanks and great video.
We get it from our steel building supplier.
You can also use pressure treated 2x4
Thank you
Glad you found the video useful @Dalton Conder.
Chet, great video. I am in the planning stage of doing same thing to my building and this presents the solution I was looking to do. The idea of using 3/4 plywood make sense since I am planning to hang shelving. The one question I have is are you using the same fastener for the sheathing as you used for the shelf?
Luiz, yes I did you all the same fasteners. I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. They were 1 1/4" drywall screws with metal drilling tips. Also, I may not have mentioned in the video, I pre-drilled all the holes in the plywood and MDF pieces. Its much easier to get through the metal that way.
Chet, thanks for the tips.
I like your idea as it saves a lot of time over studs and dry wall. But if you weld or grind,all that wood can burn adds potential fuel to a fire. Drywall is a fire barrier.
How about if you don’t have any insulation and it’s just the metal siding on the outside.
Thanks for watching our videos @Alexander Heling. I'm not quite sure what your question is referencing, so please clarify if your concern isn't addressed. While we recommend some insulation be install when the building is erected, it is by no means a requirement. Even light insulation will help to buffer the heat of the summer sun and cold of the winter nights, but without climate control inside the building, temperatures will always fluctuate through the seasons. With insulation, the sun won't heat the building quite as hot during the long summer day, but it will still heat up and feel warmer inside once the sun goes down because the insulations holds onto some of that heat. In similar fashion, during the cold of winter, the temperature inside will stay warmer at night, but during the day the sun will be slower to heat the building up because of the insulation. If you have a building without the insulation we would recommend some means of incurring cross ventilation at a minimum, to help prevent the extreme temperature swings, but even that isn't absolutely necessary depending on your needs. In terms of the video you have commented on, the insulation would not affect sheeting the interior of the building in any way. While sheeting the interior of an insulated building will help protect the insulation, usually that is not the primary reason for doing so. Hope this helps you, if not please let us know, otherwise good luck on any future projects.
Great Video! Love the tongue and groove and off the floor idea. I only question the use of MDF... Why not plywood shelves? I am sure you have your reasons!
Plywood would be completely acceptable as well @Travis Reed. The reason Chet chose MDF in his building is because it finishes more easily and cleanly than plywood does when being painted. In this buildings case it took two coats of paint to get a uniform and relatively smooth surface on the mdf, while the plywood wasn't nearly as good after the two coats, and finishing the edges of plywood is the hardest if you want a smooth finish. The MDF has held up just fine so its strength hasn't been a concern. But it is just a matter of preference and there isn't really any one big advantage to it either way, do what works best for you for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting, we are glad the video was helpful to you.
Is it possible to use non metal on the outside.. I like to go hardy board or a brick vinere...or vinyl siding.. then use metal on the inside...
Great question @y2kxj. We do not offer any other option on our buildings, but there certainly are other ways to finish out the outside of the building. Because the framing members, the girts, are approximately every 3-4 feet running horizontally, you would need to have some sort of framework installed to provide vertical support members to fasten the vinyl or other medium to. One option, though probably not the cheapest, is to fasten whatever you intend directly to the steel sheeting on the outside. Also, depending on what suppliers in your area have, or what you can get shipped, there are a large number of finished available for steel exterior sheeting, faux stucco, barn wood, etc. Check out www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/ for some ideas, they have some amazing finishes available on a variety of steel panel profiles.
Why do you put the galvanized 2x4 thing on the bottom instead of just screwing into just the bottom girt like you do on top and the middle???
The red iron you see on the bottom is only a 2" x 4" base angle. It sits against the concrete and the outside sheeting only. What we did with the galvanized piece is just to mirror that on the inside so that we have something to fasten to bottom of the plywood to.
Great advice...I didn't want to do the dry wall route. I'm also gonna do a loft...if I support it out in the open--do u think the 2nd support on the wall would be enough? There won't be a lot of weight on it, but I don't want anyone falling. Great video.
Brandt Vickery
when you build a loft your intentions is not a lot of weight. It can become a catch-all and Wala lots of weight. If I were building it for myself I would build it free standing like a mezzinine. I would attach it to the side wall to take the wobble out. good luck building. Greg
Best way to anchor wood to steel is straight up with an Aerosmith anchoring system pneumatic gun designed for that job… the regular metal screw system used in this video will strip out eventually…
I have used the Aerosmith anchoring gun for years doing exactly what this video demonstrates Versa Pin ST 4200 is the way to go… cheaper in the long run on labor cost, super tough you’ll have hell tryin to strip the VersaPin out of the wood.
Just overall a way better system…
Thanks for watching and commenting @Kersten Clifton. Your input is very much appreciated and we will be considering your recommendation for future work we do. The initial system cost to get setup is likely going to be prohibitive for the average DIY'er, which this video is geared towards, so standard fasteners may be best for the one time job. But for some people, this may be the perfect option and has some great advantages, we're glad you pointed it out and hope those interested in doing this themselves see your comment. Most of our clients interested in having this done in their building elect to have us install it for them, so we might be using this system in the future. If so perhaps we'll re-shoot the video and give you a shout-out. Thanks again and thanks for adding to the conversation.
Those girts look thicker than 12 ga steel - would those pins still work on thicker steel?
Great question @Chris B, thanks for watching and commenting. We did end up purchasing the equipment to use the Aerosmith fasteners, and so far we have been happy with them. They have their limitations and we still use wood-to-steel screws in conjunction with the fasteners. From our limited experience with the system, 12 GA is the upper limit of what the fasteners will reliably penetrate, and the marketing material rates them only up to 14 GA. Typically the Zee girts/perlins in our buildings are 14-16 GA, so the fasteners work well there.
Is there a reason we can't build the steel building to match dimensional lumber? That way we would not have to cut the 8 inches off the plywood. Then the whole building could be finishable with dimensional lumber and drywall or such, with very little scrap.Is it that the steel codes don't match the wood codes?
That's a great question Steve Harkins.
The standard girt height is 7'-4", but can be changed depending on what the project owner requests. As each building is custom designed to specification delineated by the owner, we are able to place the girts at varying heights. The standard design we use is generally the most efficient in terms pounds of steel used, and thus the cheapest, which is the goal of most builders. Varying from the typical design will likely change the overall price of the building, but depending on the intended use, i.e. sheeting or dryingwalling the interior walls, the additional expense in steel may be outweighed in savings elsewhere.
Please contact us if you happen to live in the state of Arizona and ever look to build, we'd love to earn your business.
Steel v. Wood codes and requirements are quite very different from one another
nice good jobs
Glad we could be of help, thanks for watching @Juan Martinez.
Great video... I’ve been wanting to do this in my workshop. Is the plywood the same as the SUBFLOOR plywood?
Yes, it is!
Nice video. Good information. Sound not so good. what you can try to improve your sound is a Wireless Lav Mic with a headset. You're far enough away from the camera that you don't need to worry about syncing sound to the lips.
awesome
I wonder what's the R factor of that insulation mat?
seeing its been pinched where exterior meets girt it has thus lost all r value and created cold spots, if it was my building I would add blown in insulation or the newer BIBS blow in method rather
Doesn't matter if you have a big, leaky, roll-up door.
Curious if you add any kind of sealant along the angle piece on the floor ?
Great question @Dallas Arnold. We did not, though there is no reason you couldn't, we just didn't see a use in doing so at the time. You might want to seal it incase of a spill from the inside, but we just assumed that if there ever was a spill inside that runs up against the wall, it would be cleaned up in a timely manner so any liquid seepage would be minimal. The angle piece that the exterior sheeting is attached to has sealant applied to it to keep bugs/moisture out, so sealant on the second channel piece would be redundant from that perspective. But it wouldn't take much extra time or expense to seal it if you'd like. Normally, when we know there is going to be interior sheeting in a building, we will use 8" base channel/cee along the floor instead of having to apply the base angle twice.
@@sentrybuilders5969 Thanks for your reply. I too would expect any spills to be handled in a timely manner, but some are not as diligent as others.
Hi,
Very informative. We have the same building set up with insulation. I have few questions
1. We are trying to insulate it even farther by adding SIP, and then drywall. Would you recommend to do electrical before SIP installation or after?
2. Not related to this particular video. How did you water proof outside where metal walls touch concrete slab?
Thank you
Great questions Burt Chiropractic Rehabilitation Center, thanks for watching. As to your first question we'd recommend you get with your electrical contractor on what they would prefer. We are not electricians so that isn't something we'd feel comfortable giving advice one, wouldn't want to mix you up. If you're doing it yourself then you might try and contact a local electrician and just ask for some advice.
As to your second question, the goal with the steel sheeting and trim work isn't so much to waterproof as it is to direct the water to drain away from the building. They make base trim in several profiles for this very purpose so any water shedding off the wall sheeting drips onto the base trim and then it drips onto native grade/concrete slab/etc. If your native grade or concrete isn't sloped to drain the water away from the building at that point then that will need to be addressed. They do make all sorts of sealants for applications where there is water involved, but no solution is considered to be waterproof generally speaking, so if there is standing water next to the building then things need to be changed so it will drain away from the building properly. Hope that makes sense.
@@sentrybuilders5969 1. I agree, we will talk to 3 electricians tomorrow
2. There is no standing water next to a building. There only few spots on each side of the building where water gets through from metal wall into concrete and then you can see moist concrete. i assume they have not finished everything. I see many silicon tubes in the metal building fabrication guys box. They were unable to finish an entire building because of the rain.
The way we do our buildings, along the bottom edge of the building we use preformed foam strips between the base trim, which goes on first, and the sheeting. This seals the small gaps that are there due to the ribs in the sheeting. This is more for air movement and to keep pests out, but acts as a barrier against wind driven rain too. In some cases spray foam can be used, but it is kind messy and hard to control so we try to avoid it, make sure you have the appropriate solvent on hand if you do use it because inventively it'll get where you don't want it and the poly foam sticks to everything.
@@sentrybuilders5969 From my research, the cleanest way would be to unscrew the bottom edge of the sheeting and insert Z shaped sleeve. Most likely custom made around the perimeter of the building - ruclips.net/video/2H0VavvtyI8/видео.html - Thoughts? Indeed, spray foam has no control. It just appears everywhere you do not want to see it.
@@Burtchiropracticrehabilitation l
Is the building heated or in any way environmentally controlled? I am asking because I am concerned about moisture / condensation. Planning on building soon - gathering information. Thanks!
Bill Coffey we appreciate your question. Most of the buildings we erect do not have any kind of environmental control. They are storage buildings or hobby shops. So depending on what you plan to do with the building will determine if it's worth installing anything. We do typically insulate our buildings so that will help with condensation in cooler weather, but basic fiberglass insulation generally isn't sufficient if environmentally controlled. If you intend to heat your building, and it sounds as if you are in a cooler climate, we recommend spray-foam insulation in that case. It will not only provide excellent insulation, but will also cover most of the interior steel components that would cause condensation. Good luck.
Sentry Builders
I live in South Carolina. Very warm and humid - would your suggestion be the same?
That's a great question and I would have to recommend you contact a local builder now knowing where you are located. Arizona, if you've never been here, is a very hot and dry place in most cases, as such humidity is really never a concern. Rather than give you advice that isn't based off of experience I would ask you seek the advice of someone in your climate that knows how steel buildings weather the hot wet summers and cold winters there.
Do you pre drill the steel gerts/ studs too? What hardware did you use ?
That's a great question @Thomas Callahan, thanks for asking and contributing. We do not pre-drill the framing material the plywood fastens to. We use self-drilling screws that eliminate that need, plus it would be quite difficult to make sure all your holes align if you were to pre-drill both. When using screws we will typically mark, drill, and countersink the screw head locations. Anymore though, we use a nailgun with special hardened steel nails designed for penetrating through metal, this is substantially faster. Any decent coil nailer should take these nails, check them out www.aerosmithfastening.com/versapin-fasteners.
Sentry Builders amazing. Thank you so much!
You guys build in CA?
nice
Can you do a 40x50x14 in Texas?
We only work in Arizona unfortunately.
Nice
I wonder about condensation build up between the insulation and the 3/4" plywood. Is there adequate ventilation to relieve this or do you feel that this could be an issue down the road with the plywood. Mold, mildew etc...
This was in Arizona where its on the dry side in terms of humidity so its rare to get humid enough for condensation to happen, best to consult with local steel buildings construction professionals for their advice on your area codes or requirements to prevent this issue.
Great video, I just had a metal building built and I'm wondering what type of bit to drill through the heavy beam? The thinner stuff is no problem but to run the conduit it will need to go through the supporting beams horizontally. Any help is appreciated.
Great question Brandon S and thanks for watching. Typically we do not use any drill bits, instead we use self-tapping tek-screws designed for metal. So long as you can find a source for them, they make ones designed to drill through 3/8" material, that should make it through any of the beams in your building. Otherwise any good drill bit designed for metal should suffice, the beams are made from mild steel and do not require any special drill bit material. Though we've found the cobalt bits are worth the extra expense simply because of their longevity compared to standard HHS bits. Good luck and enjoy your new building.
Jeezzzz, this is an old video but I have to correct this.
You SHOULDN'T be drilling through the heavy vertical structural members, if you look up the proper code way you use conduit to 'U' around the beam.
Do you do buildings in Las Vegas?
Thanks for watching @Craig Fuller, unfortunately we only do business in the state of Arizona. If you haven't seen it already please take a look at our simple "5 Steel Building Traps" video if you decide to find a supplier/builder in Nevada. Best of luck.
Nice video, but didn’t age well on the price of plywood ...... lol
Who'd a known, hu? LOL. It's still probably cheaper than furring out the wall with 2-by material and drywalling though, just cause everything is up across the board, but metal sheeting the interior of the building is a lot more appealing now for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Bet this guy grew up on a ranch. Very materials conscious.
In fact Chet grew up in the White Mountains of Arizona, many of our crew are from Rural parts of the state as well. Thanks for watching and commenting @TZ TZ.
I like, but pressboard (not good) .
Were you eating when you filmed this? Sounds like an old 8mm audio
sounded like that likely due to the camera operator touching or rather sliding their hand over the sensitive mic
That brings the question why go with steel why not go with a stick framed building? A lot of people I know that have bought steel buildings did not get the insulation, and the insulation is not easily added, this makes the building very hot or very cold compared to a stick built building. Seems like a lot of extra work and steps, like you mentioned three-quarter plywood is expensive $30 a sheet, a steel building is expensive and is not easily finished inside, look at all that square footage behind the sheeting that you're losing!, and you're losing a lot of space because of the beams angling out, those beams dictate where workbenches or equipment is going to go in your shop. Why not just frame the building out of 2x6's or 2 x 4's in the first place? You can put metal siding on the outside of the stick frame building if you want and make it look like a steel building. Stick framing is pretty easy, seams to me the labor saving would be huge if you supply the labor, there is a lot of profit in the steel building kit vs just buying Raw materials. In my shop wall space is essential to hang and mount many different things i've worked in metal buildings and it's a lot harder to hang things run air, electrical etc also like I said before the way the support beams angle out word it prevents you from putting equipment up tight against a wall or forces you to move it over to one way or the other, for example say you wanted to have shelving all the way down one wall tight against the wall it would be impossible.
Today there are more easy to apply less 'toxic' foams after they have been sprayed and want to wear a suit in any spray application to keep clean and the stuff out of your breathing system (nose, mouth, throat, lungs) and ears too. There is also BIBS blow in insulation system on top of EPS (expanded polystyrene) sheets up to 4 inches thick, All of these are easy to put in and offer full R value as opposed to the insulating they instal and pinch between the exterior finish and girt/purlins as any one with experience will tell you this pinching negates insulation values and creates cold gaps. I would forgo Fiberglass rolls as rodents would just eat through it and opt for rockwool or denim if you rather go more natural route but this has its minor air gap issues as well if cut outs are not cut for proper snug fit.
Minute 7:18
Just use the same kind of sheet metal that's on the outside of the building. You can get it in white, it's not a fire hazard like plywood and should be cheaper than $30 a sheet.
not to mentioned that once you 'swiss cheese' it with so many holes you need to replace as it is not mend-able like drywall or plywood, then again flat (perforated or solid) sheet metal is just as good but solid metal has an audio reverb downside and comes in the same gauges (thickness) as exterior sheets, stainless steel is more costly than any other sheathing
You lost me at MDF
Camera man needs to hit the gym lol
Hope you found some useful information in the video in spite of our lacking videography skills.