You guys are the "Top Gear" of the Photography world! Absolutely love the banter and snide remarks, all to the betterment of our photographic enjoyment of course!
I’d love to see you guys go crazy and compare, say, the Phase One with a Hasselblad 6 series. These cameras are way out of my price range, but are well suited to the “money is no object” category. I haven’t come across many reviews online, and sometimes we just want to be able to dream, in say the same way a teenager thinks about exotic European sports cars
@@v_stands_for_value124 From the little i've seen the Phase One 4 just cleans the floor with the GFX but in real life both will deliver similar results, the difference comes if one underexposes tons of steps or if you want to crop a bug in a landscape image.
@@KNURKonesur Vintage manual lenses are not a match for the Olympus 45mm f1.8 as they lack autofocus, are worse optically and are physically larger and heavier.
@@wj45 vintage lenses are interesting to use, gives you a wide scope to try, have fun with and collect. They are cheap and have amazing image quality that is different to a modern lens, but it's hard to say better - more enjoyable sometimes and different but you'd not want to use one at a wedding or some high value, don't miss a shot event. That's where a nice af lens wins hands down.
Then there's *used* (at ALL these price points of course), a low-cost killer pick is a Nikon D600/610...great sensor for the money (about $500), and a Nikon 85/1.8-D ($250), or the 105/2-D for $500. This would be a GREAT combo for the money.
Great for the money - yes. Great for usability - no. While using my D600 with the AF-S 85/1.8 lens, I often felt myself constrained by the limited autofocus coverage. And many shots had to be rejected due to missed focus (it is not easy to keep an eye in perfect focus if the model is moving). Modern eye autofocus of the mirrorless cameras dramatically improves the situation. One can finally stop worrying about focus and concentrate on composition, posing and interacting with a model. So, I would actually prefer ANY modern mirrorless with eye AF instead of D600.
William, totally agree. These cameras produced amazing shots when they were released and still do. They focus very fast and accurately, focus area coverage is in the area you need. If you can't get a professional, magazine print worthy image with this combo, it's you, not the camera. The new tech is developed to sell cameras not make better pictures.
D610 has terrible reliability and awful autofocus. It JUST has image quality, nothing more. I would suggest to go with D7200 or pay more for D750 which is far superior camera. If you dont need good autofocus and good battery then go with Sony A7, they are VERY cheap on used market, can go as low as $350.
@@AXYZE I would like to defend the D610 a bit. These are very reliable cameras, like most Nikons. They do not break easy and do not glitch. The only real drawback is the AF point coverage, which severely limits your composition. And you'd better use central cross-type points, otherwise AF accuracy may start to suffer, especially in low light conditions. The AF of D7200 you mentioned is indeed better, because its points are covering significantly more area and are more sensitive in low light. But then you have to deal with an APS-C sensor, which is one stop more noisy. And there are no proper APS-C portrait lenses in the F-mount, other than the discontinued Tamron 60mm f/2.0 Macro.
Well, C&J are employed by DPR to drive interest to DPR, which is owned by Amazon, which doesn’t sell used cameras. Maybe back in the day at TCSTV (if TCS has a used dept), but these days all affiliate links end at Amazon
Love my X-S10 so much. Great photos. Stellar video. With a Ninja V doing 10bit 422 FLOG 4k in true 24p at actual 48 shutterspeed and DCI. It's an epic machine
@@wwz3320 Personally I don't feel the sting of the small buffer, but I can certainly understand that is an issue. I'm a casual photo taker and do 80% video :)
Going entry level full frame.... nikon Z5 or Z6 with a viltrox 85 1.8 or if budget permits then the nikon 85 1.8s, or the canon eos r with a 85 1.4 samyang are a pretty good starting point.
You can have a Panasonic and put a Leica 2/90 on it, but then you won't be able to borrow it (or can you?) to see if it really is good or not. Me? A GX80 with Olympus 45/1.8 cost next to nothing.
I posted the same earlier, the 45 1.8 is amazing and the price is so low. I paid £90 for mine and it focuses lazer sharp in a fraction of a second on a cheap epl5. I have a newer fuji xt-2 but it's bigger and doesn't produce much better images if at all better in most conditions.
This is what i gone to jobs for many years: GX80 and the cheap 14/25/42,5 trinity. great results and happy customers. For a short tie i updated only to a Panasonic G9 but the GX80 and the Lenses are still in use.
Even brand new, an Olympus E-M10 Mk IV with the 45mm would probably come in under $1k and would be light, compact and very capable. MFT options get ignored a lot
@@vaska00762 And most wondering: i can take a complete professional Camera with lenses to places and no one noticing it because they are so small: for example the small GX80 with small lenses.
on my screen (and most probably in book size prints), i don't see much difference between the pics shown from the $1000 combo all the way to the $10,000 combo. Especially if it's a travel portrait where i want to see the person and the landmark in the background clearly.
It's one of those diminishing returns thing. $1000-3000 is a big jump. Beyond that you start seeing less and less difference other than a few extra pounds lighter in the pocket.
@@davect01 It has nothing to do with diminishing returns. These days, even a mobile phone has more than enough pixels for fine detail photography. Take a 15 year old digital camera, put a decent consumer grade lens of anything between 50~105mm on it. Set the camera to base " iso ", and get the lighting and the background right ( basics of portrait photography ). You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the results from a $10000 camera coupled to $5000 lens and the old cheapie. What we are doing at the end is viewing the results on our screens at 72 dpi. People have been conditioned to think that expensive stuff make for a better photograph. As we know very well but more often than not we do not want to admit it, this is absolute nonsense. A person can spend over $ 300000 buying a Mclaren 720, but this does not make that person a Formula One driver let alone a champion.
@@lensman5762 I couldn't tell much difference in the images taken either looking at this video through my $200 tablet 😃 I'm sure old cameras work great. Yes, you should be able to compose an image. I like the toneh in the background. The new cameras and lenses have some great technology built into them no? I am still amazed how well cell phone cams perform. My camera still hasn't been engineered, but I keep saying, the day they build a camera with a cell phone built in it, I will buy that camera in a heartbeat (wifi, Bluetooth, internet, text messaging, touch screen) I didn't see the Fuji XT4 or Sony A7SIII in this review 🤔 😃😃
You could buy a late 80's film body like a Nikon F801 and an 85mm 1.8D for less than $250 together and still get pretty much the same results (shooting something like Portra 160 or 400). What they show is a portrait in a lot of light. No camera will struggle with that.
Z7II with the 50 1.2 S, I already love this thing on the Z6II I have. The Nikon 105 1.4 is another good option. An RIII or RIV with the 135GM is great if you have the room for it. There are so many great portrait combos these days.
Z7II with the 50mm f/1.2S is a magical combo. Absolutely fantastic to shoot, but the 85mm is not a bad choice either. Slap on the 200mm f/2 for something amazingly cool.
@@madst7521 haha, well said. But i do believe the 200mm f2 is a bit of an odd choice. Its absolutely magical and unique, but hardly anywhere near what i could still call practical (both size & weight & Focal length & price tag)…but it DOES create such unique images if you go for it, there i absolutely agree… :)
@@madst7521 I would love to have the spare cash for a 200 F2. I look at that thing every so often, but then look at the price and weight of it and know for what I do I'd never use it enough to justify buying it.
And I'm here shooting weddings and engagements with my Canon 85 f/1.8 adapted onto my a7iii (That kit actually cost me less than $2000 due to EDU and refurbished sales actually). Still totally happy and see no need to change any time soon. That Sigma 85 is one of the big contenders whenever I do feel the need to upgrade though!
Zack Arias has been saying for years, that if you're starting with photography, get a classic Canon 5D, an 85/1.8 and a 35/2.0 and you can shoot almost anything and start earning money if you have the skill. It's not about the gear anymore.
Portraiture is one of the least demanding disciplines of photography in terms of the camera technology required. You have a posed subject, and you probably have a good deal of control over the lighting...or at least you should, even if you are outdoors. Just about any interchangeable lens camera will do you, and you should be able to get a cheap prime lens fast enough to get separation from the background when you want it. A sensor with good dynamic range is obviously a bonus, but if you light well, dynamic range should not be an issue.
Portraits can happen anywhere under any condition with any subject (fast moving toddler, anyone?). I do a lot of family photography outdoors and I bring my flash set up, always, but a most times the kids invalidate any flash setup I’d want to do and I just have to work with what I have.
"Just about any interchangeable lens camera will do you, and you should be able to get a cheap prime lens fast enough to get separation from the background when you want it." You don't do separation with the camera technology, you do it by choosing your perspective. So your camera position relative to the subject position and the background/foreground are that you control through the shoot. You as well need the subject clothing, make-up etc all to be chosen so that you get the separation and isolation, example if you have a half-naked women in a mid-18th century room then you are likely doing it wrong. The another technology that helps you to isolate and separate subject from environment is your lighting equipment. You do that properly and no problems. The last thing one needs for portraiture is a fast lens, because you don't need fast shutter 95% of the time why it is counter-productive to use one as you get countered with too shallow DOF and hence your subject is out of focus and you just did throw everything you worked for out of the window (model/subject, environment, clothing, make-up, lighting, lens sharpness and all that). Basically getting any digital camera at around 8-10 Mpix and good cheap lens that is acceptably sharp and then couple small flashes with some light modifiers etc and you are good to go.
The A7iii and the 85 1.4 Art DGDN is what I went with for my portrait back in the month of August happy to see the a7c (same sensor with better autofocus) here along with the sigma.
Awesome choice. But the 55 f/1.8 ZEISS is also awesome for portraits, full body shots and close ups. I know a fashion photographer who almost exclusively use this lens.
@@idontwantacallsign aaahhh…i really think i have to give it a shot one day…so much cheaper and smaller than the 1.4/1.2 versions…heard so many good things about it…
I am not having any sort of issue with adapted EF glass in R cameras. Maybe that just creates too many options. The 85 Art focus is not great in a DSLR, but adapted it is fantastic. The canon 135l adapted to any R is great. As a good starter option the RP, adapted with the Canon 85 f1.8, would be a cheap, but not under 1000 starting point.
I did a portrait shoot last week with that exact combo and it worked really well! I do find that third-party EF lenses can sometimes be a bit less "confident" focussing with the adapter, but my native Canon glass works fabulously.
When are you going to review the new Lumix 24mm & 50mm f/1.8 lenses? Also Lumix G9 with Leica 42.5mm 1.2, or even with Olympus 75mm 1.8. Is a great affordable portrait combo.
Ive been shooting mft myself for quite some time, but id say that g9 + 75mm 1.8 IS excellent, but a little too pricey for the performance offered compared to fuji imo…
@@m0nztam0nk Agreed - a G9 body by itself is USD $1100 and the 75mm is $900 It's also a very long focal length for portraits (150mm equivalent). In the under-$2000 range, these will struggle against Fuji APS-C and the 56mm f1.2 lens. A G9 with the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.2 would be $2700 and competing against full-frame.
@@BrandonTalbot the videos are so good out of the camera with Eterna film simulation and good levels of sharpness too. Other than occasional hunting, it's a good hybrid setup.
I recently saw some images from a fashion photographer using an ultrawide angle zoom lens. The results were amazing. Although 80-135 mm (FF equiv) is traditional focal lengths for a portrait lens, people shouldn't discount other focal lengths. Apart from that objection, it was a good round up
Thanks guys for another great video :-) But there is a calculation error at the under USD 1000 category: Canon M50 II Body USD 699 + Sigma 56mm 1.4 USD 429 = USD 1128 (and not USD 1029 !!!) --> I think this is over budget for the USD 1000 category ;-)
Olympus 45 f1.2 Pro lens or Panasonic Leica 42.5 f1.2 coupled with let’s say EM5 or currently aggressively priced Lumix G9 is great combo. The lenses really make the system. In the price is no issue category, Leica SL2 with 50 f1.4 or 75/90 f2L-mount lenses could be an interesting option to GFX100S … even if Fujifilm looks like the more logical choice. Especially, if you want to use manual M-mount lenses later on that SL2 body.
Canon R5/6 with adapted EF lens is not as far from ideal as you suggested. Eye-detect AF handles wery well, same as with RF lenses, for most of EF lenses. I have an R6 with a cheap EF 100mm f2 (its sibling 85mm f1.8 would do as well). Budget is < 3000$. Just set it to continuous eye tracking (you might have to press a couple customized buttons) and you're ready to forget about AF, it WILL nail it period. Just compose and get the right lighting. The setup is very compact and lightweighted and the results are just great. And it's stabilized.
I've been a photographer for over 15 years now, and almost every single time I bought something new, I was disappointed by how little I got for the money. Second hand is the way to go! Especially nowadays when people try to focus more on sustainability, recycling, carbon footprint etc., some lenses from 20-30-40-50 years ago are still bangers if you know how to use them - no need to splurge massive amounts of money on the newest possible gear!
@@KNURKonesur I don't mind buying used camera bodies but lenses I'm a bit more careful. I've been burnt Buying a used decentered lens and the previous owner didn't want to no about it. Nowdays I try buy new whenever possible normally waiting for sale. if I have to buy used I won't pay any money until ive tested the lens.
If I were starting in portraiture with $1000, I’d wait for Black Friday. That 56mm Sigma is awesome: sharp as hell, compact, with great AF. If I had $2000, I wouldn’t go with APS-C, since the improvements would be only marginal. Instead I’d go with the Canon RP and the Samyang 85mm f/1.4.
There's absolutely no need to perpetuate the cult of only ever buying new lenses and new cameras. Buy a second hand A7II and any old manual 50/1.4 and save money for some other gear.
@@KNURKonesur that’s a valid point. Right now I’m shooting Andromeda with a Cosinon 135mm f/2.8. The Helios 44 and the Zeiss Jena 50mm f/1.8 both work great with my a6300. But since Chris and Jordan talked about new gear, I wrote with this aspect in mind.
RP is already dated, does it even have eye AF? And the Samyang 85/1.4 is cheap and nice but its bokeh sucks compared to most other, even non portrait lenses. Any hint of busy background gets magnified, not great for portraits.
@@jan.tichavsky RP is dated? What kind of madness is that? It's an amazing camera that you can take amazing pictures with, it just lacks the newest bells and whistles, but it has a sensor and to me that's already enough!
Here's another option to consider on a tight budget (buying used gear): Olympus 45mm f/1.8, DXO Photolab, any recent Oly/Panny m43 body. I will be astonished if you can have much improved quality from that on a FF.
Yes I picked up an Oly EM1 and the Panasonic 42.5mm 1.8. Well under 1k. I'm shocked at how good the image quality is and how nice my portraits look with this combo. I'm seriously considering dumping most of my other gear and picking a few more quality m43 lenses for a nice compact system. I love using the EM1. I've used FF and APS-C extensively up until this point.
@DPreviewTV I'd love to have your opinion on a quite difficult subject that many of us are dealing with: what are the best options for indoor toddler photography? Fast moving subjects, low light, small spaces, shooting a low level without breaking our back... a tough job for us parents!
As a parent, something compact is useful just so you have the camera with you when fun stuff happens. Smartphones are actually pretty good these days. But if you need to get the best, I would APS-C body with a fast prime on the wider side of normal. You want to get the context in the picture and you aren't going to nail the focus, so the extra aperture from a full frame is mostly not usable anyway. Good autofocus system is a must though. I personally would go with a Canon 22f2 or recent Fuji and 23f1.4 or 18f2.
Canon R5 with the RF 70-200mm f2.8 or RF 100-500mm f4.5-7.1 I still use the Canon 5D Mark III with the EF 70-200mm f2.8 version one and it produces excellent images imo👍😎👍
I couldn't agree more with Fujifilm 56mm f1.2 R. I've been it with X-T30 and found that 56mm stays with the camera most of the time. Only when I need wider field of view or more portability I'll switch to XC 35mm f2.
I wasn't going to watch this, because I don't need the temptation to spend more money ....................... but I couldn't resist that thumbnail LOL .. thanks for making the most entertaining photography videos on RUclips! I thoroughly appreciate the lack of smugness and full dose of self-deprecating humor! lol
Heh, first suggestion is exactly the lens I use and recommend, the Sigma 56mm 1.4. Great lens, beautiful bokeh and amazingly sharp even wide open! Killer pincushion distortion, but it's corrected automatically in Sony bodies, at least. I swear I was one of the first non-reviewers to get my mitts on it, and I've loved using it on my a6500 since!
I wonder if any APS C body will allow you to toggle between AF-S (single shot) and AF-C (continuous) in eye-detect mode with A SINGLE button press? Because my Sony a6400 (and I assume most Sonys) will NOT do that. (Leaving it AF-C is annoying because it WILL refocus on moving objects when you don't want it to.) (But leaving it AF-S means missing spontaneous people shots.)
Great as usual, thx guys! What did you use for the final bridge shot please? (love the out-of-focus wire (just) and the vague background (not blitzed)).
Interesting to see Chris and Jordan's suggestions here. At the moment, I've gone back to using vintage lenses which work pretty well and the lack of autofocus makes me actually properly think about the shot as I'm playing with the manual focus. I seem to have an obsession with primes around 24mm or 28mm for environmental portraits. 35mm I find too tight. I have an Olympus OM 28mm mounted on my A7iii at the moment.
My choice also goes for the GFX system at the practical high end (because Leica and Hasselblad just cost too much to be practical). I did choose the 80mm instead of the 110mm though, and I’m on a 50R, but any GFX body and GF lens are really hard to beat in terms of image quality.
I realize it doesn't meet your requirements, but my primary ILC camera for people photography, is my X-PRO3. My kit includes 18mm, 27mm, 35mm, and the 56mm. I'll back that up either with the X100V or my X-E4. I know that the X-PRO3 doesn't have a lot of the fancy-schmancy, rocket science, wake you up and make your toast, AF systems of other cameras, plus no IBIS, but that OVF/EVF is so handy in so many ways. In addition the rangefinder setup allows me to maintain contact with my subject. I'm not hidden behind an SLR style body, plus it's not an intimidating camera to be facing. I find that good portraiture is about making that connection with our subjects and the rangefinder style camera makes that task just a bit easier.
If you're not discouraged by manual focusing, I highly recommend picking up a used Z6 and mount a Rokinon 135 f/2 on it...this kit can be had for right around $1100-1200 USD. It is a phenomenal setup and might I say, the combination is awfully easy on the eyes as well because yes, I am one of those people who LOVE looking at the camera and lenses as much as looking through them.
I shoot with Sony A6300 (not as popular as A6100, A6400 or A6600...i know) since 2019, I´ve always used the SEL16-50mm kit lense at 50mm for portraits. But: I want something sharper, faster with built in AF. I thought about SEL 50/1.8 - any other good budget lenses up to 500 USD out there?
A very timely video. Nicely put DP Review! My dream setup would be: X-S10 for everyday use, vlog, street, etc. (I currently own this. My favorite one) GFX100S for professional, serious work. (my wishlist)
Not a huge fan of the XS10, feels a bit lacking with the looks and the controls, compared to the XT30, or the XT3, but it does have IBIS. Wish they make a XT40 with IBIS that would be the dream, or XT4 but smaller and no flip out screen but the XT3 screen.
Hiya guys! A waaaay off topic question for Chris. Where did you get your tshirt?? Believe it or not I’ve hard a hard time finding something like that. Would love to know where you get em! 😅
It seems like when people say budget gear nowadays they're always starting in the $1,000 range what about real budget gear starting at $500 and below.. I'm pretty sure there are cameras out in that range that take very good photos and video.
Under $500 is almost certainly going to end up being some used Canon EOS APS-C or Sony NEX. Camera manufacturers have decided that the price point you want is never going to happen. People would rather buy a smartphone and take portraits with that than get an ILC. When you internalise that manufacturers don't want to go cheaper than the likes of the Panasonic S5/Nikon Z90/Sony a6X00 or Canon EOS M50... you'll realise that the camera manufacturers have given up in the budget range - Samsung and Apple will always beat them in that area, and so the question has become "what's the point"?
@@vaska00762 I can agree and disagree with that. Yes you're right about manufacturers pricing on there new cameras but most people who are just getting started in photography won't mind a nice used/refurbished camera. I'm not talking about a camera that shoots awesome photos and video I'm talking about the cameras that can take awesome photos. Most new photographers just want to take beautiful photos and then down the road possibly get into video with a better camera or a camera that's designed around video. I'm pretty sure there are cameras out there below $500 they can take awesome photos or awesome videos new/used. I know in that range you're not going to get a camera that does both.
Also with the Z7 II there is the Z 105mm MC S or you could adapt the G version of the 105 f/1.4 and the FTZ which is a gorgeous portrait setup and still under budget
My preference would be Leica lenses: 75mm or 90mm on the SL2-S. In my opinion, Leica glass for portraits can't be beat: sharpness, natural skin tones, smooth fall-off and bokeh are tops. Leica portraits have that "something" that makes the subject "come to life." You can see it.
do the same but also keeping vintage options in mind!! at 1000$ you can get a KILLER setup using used bodies (ex. canon 5d) and vintage/used lenses (ex. leica r, canon fd)
As far as type of photography category that you could cover I would really like to know what you would get for remote sport photography. And by remote I don't mean remote control but far away in the woods or mountain. I do sports photography and for events that I can easily access I have a fairly normal setup of a Canon 1d body with 70-200mm + 17-40mm but that setup is way too heavy too carry in the mountains where I have to follow athletes running. The most important aspect is weight but autofocus and image quality are also important. I was thinking a fullframe mirorless with a few primes would be ideal but which ones?
Under $1000: Olympus E-M10 + 45mm f/1.8. Under $2000: Canon EOS RP + RF 85mm f2. Under $3000: Sony A7C + Sigma 85mm f/1.4. Above that, do you really need any recommendations (because everything will be good)? But if you really need recommendations, get the RF 85mm f/1.2 and then a camera to go behind it.
Personally, I have some great combos. My Panasonic GX-1 (bought second hand) and the Olympus M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 (again second hand). Total cost? a mere £245. The images that it produces are really wonderful, especially for those on a restricted budget, or just want something really small. And then there is my favourite combo that I have, which is the Pentax K-1 with the SMC-FA 77mm F1.8 Limited, which produces such wonderful portrait images. If I got the DA*55mm F1.4 for My K-3II, that would be a great APS-C combo, especially in the rain. Can't argue with your choice of GFX100S and the 110mm though, that would be a dream. :-D
Why stop at 75-100mm? 200mm F2 or 300mm F2.8 can do wonders for tight headshots; could also go with something like a used D700 and one of the manual copies and the whole setup comes under $1k, or get a nicer body and still get near perfect glass with lots of characters that is a fraction of even a new 85 1.4.
I shoot portraits with a Sony A7ii (with battery grip) and the 135mm f1.8 GM. Incredible results with that lens. I can’t wait for the A7iv to be released so I can enjoy eye autofocus in af-c. Thanks for the video!
For under 2k$ i would go with a Canon RP with the 85mm f/2. You get fullframe image quality for a very low price. There are many shortcomings with the RP but for portrait I don't think it matter too much.
I would love to see a comparison and discussion of current high quality full frame systems (say, an SL2 or SL2S with an SL Summicron) versus a Fujifilm GFX 100S AND 50S II. I added the 50S II because it is also interesting to consider the effect of squeezing 102MP rather than 50MP onto the same size sensor. The bottom line is whether high quality camera and lens combinations with, say, 47MP to 60MP, compete with Fujifilm systems employing their larger-than-full frame sensors.
Depending on how your shooting portraits. For me I am still using DSLR , Nikon D850. As for lenses, I put up with manual focusing for most of my work, that being said it's hard to beat image quality of the Zeiss 135mm.
You guys are the "Top Gear" of the Photography world! Absolutely love the banter and snide remarks, all to the betterment of our photographic enjoyment of course!
I’d love to see you guys go crazy and compare, say, the Phase One with a Hasselblad 6 series. These cameras are way out of my price range, but are well suited to the “money is no object” category. I haven’t come across many reviews online, and sometimes we just want to be able to dream, in say the same way a teenager thinks about exotic European sports cars
I have to agree
I think a 6k GFX fks both
@@v_stands_for_value124 From the little i've seen the Phase One 4 just cleans the floor with the GFX but in real life both will deliver similar results, the difference comes if one underexposes tons of steps or if you want to crop a bug in a landscape image.
@@v_stands_for_value124 The larger sensored Hasselblad and Phase One cameras definitely have better image quality than the Fuji 100mp cameras.
Took a leap of faith with the Lumix S5 couple of months back and so far I'm loving it, glad to see it made your list.
I love S5 too, way underrated. Perfect for video. I even made few videos of it comparing Canon R6.
@@idolog I'll check those out, I'm considering the s5 for the lowlight
When discussing budget portrait lenses you MUST consider the Olympus 45mm f1.8. One of the best portrait lenses I've ever used, regardless of price.
At that price I guess yes, but there are so many vintage manual lenses for similar money that could be used on both an m43 and then full frame.
Good thought. What camera would you prefer to put it on to keep it under $2,000?
@@KNURKonesur Which vintage lens is 180 euros, as tiny, and as good? There's a ton of 45mm f/1.8 on used market.
@@KNURKonesur Vintage manual lenses are not a match for the Olympus 45mm f1.8 as they lack autofocus, are worse optically and are physically larger and heavier.
@@wj45 vintage lenses are interesting to use, gives you a wide scope to try, have fun with and collect. They are cheap and have amazing image quality that is different to a modern lens, but it's hard to say better - more enjoyable sometimes and different but you'd not want to use one at a wedding or some high value, don't miss a shot event. That's where a nice af lens wins hands down.
Then there's *used* (at ALL these price points of course), a low-cost killer pick is a Nikon D600/610...great sensor for the money (about $500), and a Nikon 85/1.8-D ($250), or the 105/2-D for $500. This would be a GREAT combo for the money.
Great for the money - yes. Great for usability - no. While using my D600 with the AF-S 85/1.8 lens, I often felt myself constrained by the limited autofocus coverage. And many shots had to be rejected due to missed focus (it is not easy to keep an eye in perfect focus if the model is moving). Modern eye autofocus of the mirrorless cameras dramatically improves the situation. One can finally stop worrying about focus and concentrate on composition, posing and interacting with a model.
So, I would actually prefer ANY modern mirrorless with eye AF instead of D600.
William, totally agree. These cameras produced amazing shots when they were released and still do. They focus very fast and accurately, focus area coverage is in the area you need. If you can't get a professional, magazine print worthy image with this combo, it's you, not the camera. The new tech is developed to sell cameras not make better pictures.
D610 has terrible reliability and awful autofocus. It JUST has image quality, nothing more.
I would suggest to go with D7200 or pay more for D750 which is far superior camera. If you dont need good autofocus and good battery then go with Sony A7, they are VERY cheap on used market, can go as low as $350.
@@AXYZE I would like to defend the D610 a bit. These are very reliable cameras, like most Nikons. They do not break easy and do not glitch. The only real drawback is the AF point coverage, which severely limits your composition. And you'd better use central cross-type points, otherwise AF accuracy may start to suffer, especially in low light conditions.
The AF of D7200 you mentioned is indeed better, because its points are covering significantly more area and are more sensitive in low light. But then you have to deal with an APS-C sensor, which is one stop more noisy. And there are no proper APS-C portrait lenses in the F-mount, other than the discontinued Tamron 60mm f/2.0 Macro.
Well, C&J are employed by DPR to drive interest to DPR, which is owned by Amazon, which doesn’t sell used cameras. Maybe back in the day at TCSTV (if TCS has a used dept), but these days all affiliate links end at Amazon
Love my X-S10 so much. Great photos. Stellar video. With a Ninja V doing 10bit 422 FLOG 4k in true 24p at actual 48 shutterspeed and DCI. It's an epic machine
I agree, probably best value camera right now, although I am held back by the small buffer, don't you feel it limiting in some way?
@@wwz3320 Personally I don't feel the sting of the small buffer, but I can certainly understand that is an issue. I'm a casual photo taker and do 80% video :)
@@AdemVessell got it, thanks for sharing :D and enjoy your day
@@wwz3320 Thank you, enjoy yours too!
Snagged an e-m5 mII with a 45 f/1.8 for under 500 US. I win the cheapskate award while still maintaining excellent portrait quality.
E-M5 II is a beauty of a camera and the 45mm f/1.8 is the best bang for the buck in the system
90mm F3.6 is sort of awkward, though.
@@HappyHubris lol the client will think about that for sure
I mean, the photographer should probably think about it, too. There's a a reason why 85mm F1.4 or 85mm F1.8 are popular, not 85mm F4.
@@djstuc LOL ok. It's not that people can do basic math on crop factor.
Going entry level full frame.... nikon Z5 or Z6 with a viltrox 85 1.8 or if budget permits then the nikon 85 1.8s, or the canon eos r with a 85 1.4 samyang are a pretty good starting point.
@@johnboncena3900 u recommended a t7 🤣🤣 used that back in 2014😂
You can have a Panasonic and put a Leica 2/90 on it, but then you won't be able to borrow it (or can you?) to see if it really is good or not. Me? A GX80 with Olympus 45/1.8 cost next to nothing.
Those little Olympus f/1.8 primes are cheap, great and scandalously underrated!
I posted the same earlier, the 45 1.8 is amazing and the price is so low. I paid £90 for mine and it focuses lazer sharp in a fraction of a second on a cheap epl5. I have a newer fuji xt-2 but it's bigger and doesn't produce much better images if at all better in most conditions.
This is what i gone to jobs for many years: GX80 and the cheap 14/25/42,5 trinity. great results and happy customers.
For a short tie i updated only to a Panasonic G9 but the GX80 and the Lenses are still in use.
Even brand new, an Olympus E-M10 Mk IV with the 45mm would probably come in under $1k and would be light, compact and very capable.
MFT options get ignored a lot
@@vaska00762 And most wondering: i can take a complete professional Camera with lenses to places and no one noticing it because they are so small: for example the small GX80 with small lenses.
Let me jot down the time of Jordan's portraits
3:00 Sony a6100 w/ sigma 56mm f1.4
3:50 Fuji X-S10 w/ Fuji 56mm f1.2
4:55 Sony a7c w/ sigma 85mm f1.4
6:12 Nikon Z7II w/ Nikon 85mm f1.8
7:05 Fuji GFX100S w/ GF 110mm f2
on my screen (and most probably in book size prints), i don't see much difference between the pics shown from the $1000 combo all the way to the $10,000 combo. Especially if it's a travel portrait where i want to see the person and the landmark in the background clearly.
It's one of those diminishing returns thing. $1000-3000 is a big jump. Beyond that you start seeing less and less difference other than a few extra pounds lighter in the pocket.
@@davect01 It has nothing to do with diminishing returns. These days, even a mobile phone has more than enough pixels for fine detail photography. Take a 15 year old digital camera, put a decent consumer grade lens of anything between 50~105mm on it. Set the camera to base " iso ", and get the lighting and the background right ( basics of portrait photography ). You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the results from a $10000 camera coupled to $5000 lens and the old cheapie. What we are doing at the end is viewing the results on our screens at 72 dpi. People have been conditioned to think that expensive stuff make for a better photograph. As we know very well but more often than not we do not want to admit it, this is absolute nonsense. A person can spend over $ 300000 buying a Mclaren 720, but this does not make that person a Formula One driver let alone a champion.
@@lensman5762 I couldn't tell much difference in the images taken either looking at this video through my $200 tablet 😃
I'm sure old cameras work great. Yes, you should be able to compose an image. I like the toneh in the background. The new cameras and lenses have some great technology built into them no? I am still amazed how well cell phone cams perform. My camera still hasn't been engineered, but I keep saying, the day they build a camera with a cell phone built in it, I will buy that camera in a heartbeat (wifi, Bluetooth, internet, text messaging, touch screen)
I didn't see the Fuji XT4 or Sony A7SIII in this review 🤔 😃😃
i literally said i hope hes not using the same camera images because there wasnt much difference.
You could buy a late 80's film body like a Nikon F801 and an 85mm 1.8D for less than $250 together and still get pretty much the same results (shooting something like Portra 160 or 400). What they show is a portrait in a lot of light. No camera will struggle with that.
You can easily go full frame under $2000 with either Canon RP + RF 85/2 or Nikon Z5 + Viltrox 85/1.8
Other than that I agree with your choices.
The z5 is crazy good for portraits imho
I think you could even squeeze the Nikkor Z 85mm 1.8 into the $2000 budget, but don‘t quote me on that
2:30 not really good at math but 699 + 429 is sure not 1029$
Z7II with the 50 1.2 S, I already love this thing on the Z6II I have. The Nikon 105 1.4 is another good option. An RIII or RIV with the 135GM is great if you have the room for it. There are so many great portrait combos these days.
The 135 gm is straight magic…as is the legend of a lens the nikon 105 1.4…would love to see 105 1.4 for the other systems…
Z7II with the 50mm f/1.2S is a magical combo. Absolutely fantastic to shoot, but the 85mm is not a bad choice either.
Slap on the 200mm f/2 for something amazingly cool.
@@madst7521 haha, well said. But i do believe the 200mm f2 is a bit of an odd choice. Its absolutely magical and unique, but hardly anywhere near what i could still call practical (both size & weight & Focal length & price tag)…but it DOES create such unique images if you go for it, there i absolutely agree… :)
@@madst7521 I would love to have the spare cash for a 200 F2. I look at that thing every so often, but then look at the price and weight of it and know for what I do I'd never use it enough to justify buying it.
And I'm here shooting weddings and engagements with my Canon 85 f/1.8 adapted onto my a7iii (That kit actually cost me less than $2000 due to EDU and refurbished sales actually). Still totally happy and see no need to change any time soon. That Sigma 85 is one of the big contenders whenever I do feel the need to upgrade though!
Zack Arias has been saying for years, that if you're starting with photography, get a classic Canon 5D, an 85/1.8 and a 35/2.0 and you can shoot almost anything and start earning money if you have the skill. It's not about the gear anymore.
The Canon 85 1.8 is a fucking legendary lens
Jordan and Chris are the only men I would take over supermodels.
Portraiture is one of the least demanding disciplines of photography in terms of the camera technology required. You have a posed subject, and you probably have a good deal of control over the lighting...or at least you should, even if you are outdoors.
Just about any interchangeable lens camera will do you, and you should be able to get a cheap prime lens fast enough to get separation from the background when you want it.
A sensor with good dynamic range is obviously a bonus, but if you light well, dynamic range should not be an issue.
Obviously you have no experience with modern eye tracking AF.
Portraits can happen anywhere under any condition with any subject (fast moving toddler, anyone?). I do a lot of family photography outdoors and I bring my flash set up, always, but a most times the kids invalidate any flash setup I’d want to do and I just have to work with what I have.
"Just about any interchangeable lens camera will do you, and you should be able to get a cheap prime lens fast enough to get separation from the background when you want it."
You don't do separation with the camera technology, you do it by choosing your perspective.
So your camera position relative to the subject position and the background/foreground are that you control through the shoot. You as well need the subject clothing, make-up etc all to be chosen so that you get the separation and isolation, example if you have a half-naked women in a mid-18th century room then you are likely doing it wrong.
The another technology that helps you to isolate and separate subject from environment is your lighting equipment. You do that properly and no problems.
The last thing one needs for portraiture is a fast lens, because you don't need fast shutter 95% of the time why it is counter-productive to use one as you get countered with too shallow DOF and hence your subject is out of focus and you just did throw everything you worked for out of the window (model/subject, environment, clothing, make-up, lighting, lens sharpness and all that).
Basically getting any digital camera at around 8-10 Mpix and good cheap lens that is acceptably sharp and then couple small flashes with some light modifiers etc and you are good to go.
@@80-80. you don't need eye tracking.
Even a manual lens can do the job better then any modern lens
@@BigBoss-gb4cx Yeah. And horse is better than car.
The A7iii and the 85 1.4 Art DGDN is what I went with for my portrait back in the month of August happy to see the a7c (same sensor with better autofocus) here along with the sigma.
I just went for the a7IV and 35mm f2 dg dn and the same 85mm!
Would LOVE to see the same idea for landscape, street and definitely wildlife!
Travel as well!
Yes, this please
Great video! Hope there will be more of this series like for Landscape, street etc.
I really like my Sony A7R IV with the 135mm F1.8 GM for portraits!
My choice too :)
Sony 135gm is just straight ludacris…the image this thing puts out are absolutely spectacular!
Awesome choice. But the 55 f/1.8 ZEISS is also awesome for portraits, full body shots and close ups. I know a fashion photographer who almost exclusively use this lens.
@@idontwantacallsign aaahhh…i really think i have to give it a shot one day…so much cheaper and smaller than the 1.4/1.2 versions…heard so many good things about it…
I am not having any sort of issue with adapted EF glass in R cameras. Maybe that just creates too many options. The 85 Art focus is not great in a DSLR, but adapted it is fantastic. The canon 135l adapted to any R is great. As a good starter option the RP, adapted with the Canon 85 f1.8, would be a cheap, but not under 1000 starting point.
I did a portrait shoot last week with that exact combo and it worked really well! I do find that third-party EF lenses can sometimes be a bit less "confident" focussing with the adapter, but my native Canon glass works fabulously.
5:37 Damn now you putting Sony Lenses on Canon? Wild!
Haha good observation
I also think a round-up of second hand cameras would be great. The X-E3 can be bought for stupidly cheap (got mine in pristine condition for 200)
That's insanely cheap for a 24 MP camera that's only one generation older than current. Congrats on the find!
Where do u go to find good deals for premium lenses for cheap ?
When are you going to review the new Lumix 24mm & 50mm f/1.8 lenses?
Also Lumix G9 with Leica 42.5mm 1.2, or even with Olympus 75mm 1.8. Is a great affordable portrait combo.
Ive been shooting mft myself for quite some time, but id say that g9 + 75mm 1.8 IS excellent, but a little too pricey for the performance offered compared to fuji imo…
@@m0nztam0nk Agreed - a G9 body by itself is USD $1100 and the 75mm is $900 It's also a very long focal length for portraits (150mm equivalent). In the under-$2000 range, these will struggle against Fuji APS-C and the 56mm f1.2 lens. A G9 with the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.2 would be $2700 and competing against full-frame.
Quick nitpick, the last firmware update on the 100 made the eye af on par with the 100s.
Proud Fujifilm X-S10 owner ❤❤ I love my F1.4 Viltrox 23 mm such a good combo
Viltrox Lenses for Fuji are a great choice. Love mine
@@BrandonTalbot the videos are so good out of the camera with Eterna film simulation and good levels of sharpness too. Other than occasional hunting, it's a good hybrid setup.
@@RoadsAndRevs it sure is! It’s my go to travel setup
35mm equivalent FoV is the best for portrait. Great combo!
@@shang-hsienyang1284 absolutely 💯 it can be used for a variety of applications
I recently saw some images from a fashion photographer using an ultrawide angle zoom lens. The results were amazing. Although 80-135 mm (FF equiv) is traditional focal lengths for a portrait lens, people shouldn't discount other focal lengths.
Apart from that objection, it was a good round up
Surely the Nikon Z5 with the Viltrox 85mm f1.8 should have been a contender for the under $2K price range?
you'd still have enough left over for the Nikkor Z 50mm 1.8 S and be under $2K.
Nice video as always . no consideration for the micro4/3 system ?
Finally! Thanks for the long awaited video!
Thanks guys for another great video :-)
But there is a calculation error at the under USD 1000 category: Canon M50 II Body USD 699 + Sigma 56mm 1.4 USD 429 = USD 1128 (and not USD 1029 !!!) --> I think this is over budget for the USD 1000 category ;-)
Fun, as always and The Camera Store is the best!
2000$ Fujifilm APS-C!? You are joking! There is great full frame combo Nikon Z5 1295$ and Viltrox AF 85mm f/1.8 Z 399$
Olympus 45 f1.2 Pro lens or Panasonic Leica 42.5 f1.2 coupled with let’s say EM5 or currently aggressively priced Lumix G9 is great combo. The lenses really make the system.
In the price is no issue category, Leica SL2 with 50 f1.4 or 75/90 f2L-mount lenses could be an interesting option to GFX100S … even if Fujifilm looks like the more logical choice. Especially, if you want to use manual M-mount lenses later on that SL2 body.
Canon R5/6 with adapted EF lens is not as far from ideal as you suggested. Eye-detect AF handles wery well, same as with RF lenses, for most of EF lenses. I have an R6 with a cheap EF 100mm f2 (its sibling 85mm f1.8 would do as well). Budget is < 3000$. Just set it to continuous eye tracking (you might have to press a couple customized buttons) and you're ready to forget about AF, it WILL nail it period. Just compose and get the right lighting. The setup is very compact and lightweighted and the results are just great. And it's stabilized.
Awesome concept Chris & Jordon. Next : Travel Kit- at every budget !!!!!!!
It's a bit outdated, but I'm enjoying learning portraiture with my A7RIII/55mm F1.8. Compact, tons of detail, and fun rendering.
What's outdated about an amazing top of the line camera? Just cause it's a couple years old? What a load of BS!
@@KNURKonesur the 55mm itself has some LOCA and resolution deficiencies compared to more recent lenses like the Sigma 65mm.
But obviously buying used is always the best bang for the buck.
Same as cars. Some strategies never go bad!
I've been a photographer for over 15 years now, and almost every single time I bought something new, I was disappointed by how little I got for the money. Second hand is the way to go! Especially nowadays when people try to focus more on sustainability, recycling, carbon footprint etc., some lenses from 20-30-40-50 years ago are still bangers if you know how to use them - no need to splurge massive amounts of money on the newest possible gear!
@@KNURKonesur I don't mind buying used camera bodies but lenses I'm a bit more careful. I've been burnt Buying a used decentered lens and the previous owner didn't want to no about it. Nowdays I try buy new whenever possible normally waiting for sale. if I have to buy used I won't pay any money until ive tested the lens.
@@KNURKonesur adding to that, mirrorless cameras make manual focusing accurately a breeze by enabling in-viewfinder zoom and focus peaking.
My favorit set: Sony 7R3 + Sony FE 50/1.2GM + Sony FE 85/1.4 GM + GODOX V1 + GODOX AD200Pro + GODOX XPro + some light modifiers, backgrounds, etc.
If I were starting in portraiture with $1000, I’d wait for Black Friday. That 56mm Sigma is awesome: sharp as hell, compact, with great AF. If I had $2000, I wouldn’t go with APS-C, since the improvements would be only marginal. Instead I’d go with the Canon RP and the Samyang 85mm f/1.4.
There's absolutely no need to perpetuate the cult of only ever buying new lenses and new cameras. Buy a second hand A7II and any old manual 50/1.4 and save money for some other gear.
@@KNURKonesur that’s a valid point. Right now I’m shooting Andromeda with a Cosinon 135mm f/2.8. The Helios 44 and the Zeiss Jena 50mm f/1.8 both work great with my a6300. But since Chris and Jordan talked about new gear, I wrote with this aspect in mind.
RP is already dated, does it even have eye AF? And the Samyang 85/1.4 is cheap and nice but its bokeh sucks compared to most other, even non portrait lenses. Any hint of busy background gets magnified, not great for portraits.
@@jan.tichavsky RP is dated? What kind of madness is that? It's an amazing camera that you can take amazing pictures with, it just lacks the newest bells and whistles, but it has a sensor and to me that's already enough!
Why go with the RP when it has 1.5 stop of DR less than your cropped A6300?
Fun concept. I look forward to landscape, food, macro, fine art, street, auto-racing, team sports,... Have some fun!
Nikon Z5 with the Viltrox 85mm 1.8 Z is a great option for under $2000
Viltrox doesn‘t spend as much on ads, you know
very fun video, guys, you are doing good job on this channel.
Here's another option to consider on a tight budget (buying used gear): Olympus 45mm f/1.8, DXO Photolab, any recent Oly/Panny m43 body. I will be astonished if you can have much improved quality from that on a FF.
Same here mate and that's after owning fulk frame nikon and still having an xt2.
Yes I picked up an Oly EM1 and the Panasonic 42.5mm 1.8. Well under 1k. I'm shocked at how good the image quality is and how nice my portraits look with this combo. I'm seriously considering dumping most of my other gear and picking a few more quality m43 lenses for a nice compact system. I love using the EM1. I've used FF and APS-C extensively up until this point.
Here's a $500 solution. Nikon D700 with Nikon 50mm 1.8D or 1.8G. Might even have cash left for a burrito and beers
Yep. I use d750 and 50mm 1.8D. And i freakin love it
@DPreviewTV I'd love to have your opinion on a quite difficult subject that many of us are dealing with: what are the best options for indoor toddler photography? Fast moving subjects, low light, small spaces, shooting a low level without breaking our back... a tough job for us parents!
As a parent, something compact is useful just so you have the camera with you when fun stuff happens. Smartphones are actually pretty good these days. But if you need to get the best, I would APS-C body with a fast prime on the wider side of normal. You want to get the context in the picture and you aren't going to nail the focus, so the extra aperture from a full frame is mostly not usable anyway. Good autofocus system is a must though. I personally would go with a Canon 22f2 or recent Fuji and 23f1.4 or 18f2.
Thank you for making the point about lack of midrange options from Canon! It's the one thing holding me back from going into the EOS R system.
Yessssssss please do one of these for literally every genre of photography!
For this casual, non professional weekend Dad shooter my A6400 and 50mm 1.4 has done me well
How about just lenses by price price range for each major lense platform. For example, say, 3 or 4 ranges for micro 4/3, etc.
Canon R5 with the RF 70-200mm f2.8 or RF 100-500mm f4.5-7.1 I still use the Canon 5D Mark III with the EF 70-200mm f2.8 version one and it produces excellent images imo👍😎👍
I couldn't agree more with Fujifilm 56mm f1.2 R. I've been it with X-T30 and found that 56mm stays with the camera most of the time. Only when I need wider field of view or more portability I'll switch to XC 35mm f2.
I wasn't going to watch this, because I don't need the temptation to spend more money ....................... but I couldn't resist that thumbnail LOL .. thanks for making the most entertaining photography videos on RUclips! I thoroughly appreciate the lack of smugness and full dose of self-deprecating humor! lol
Heh, first suggestion is exactly the lens I use and recommend, the Sigma 56mm 1.4. Great lens, beautiful bokeh and amazingly sharp even wide open! Killer pincushion distortion, but it's corrected automatically in Sony bodies, at least.
I swear I was one of the first non-reviewers to get my mitts on it, and I've loved using it on my a6500 since!
How about an Olympus EM-10 with the 45mm 1.8? I wish the sensor was updated, but still a great cam and a fantastic little lens.
I wonder if any APS C body will allow you to toggle between AF-S (single shot) and AF-C (continuous) in eye-detect mode with A SINGLE button press? Because my Sony a6400 (and I assume most Sonys) will NOT do that.
(Leaving it AF-C is annoying because it WILL refocus on moving objects when you don't want it to.)
(But leaving it AF-S means missing spontaneous people shots.)
Exactly what I was waiting for! Thank you
Great as usual, thx guys! What did you use for the final bridge shot please? (love the out-of-focus wire (just) and the vague background (not blitzed)).
A7C over the A73 for portraits?
Is this just because of AF?
Doe that AF really beat the EVF and extra dials?
And optional baterry grip
Interesting to see Chris and Jordan's suggestions here. At the moment, I've gone back to using vintage lenses which work pretty well and the lack of autofocus makes me actually properly think about the shot as I'm playing with the manual focus.
I seem to have an obsession with primes around 24mm or 28mm for environmental portraits. 35mm I find too tight. I have an Olympus OM 28mm mounted on my A7iii at the moment.
Looks like a typo at 2.36 - if the combo is cheaper I guess the M50-ii should be $599? In that price range, how about a used D700 with Nikon 85/1.8?
My choice also goes for the GFX system at the practical high end (because Leica and Hasselblad just cost too much to be practical). I did choose the 80mm instead of the 110mm though, and I’m on a 50R, but any GFX body and GF lens are really hard to beat in terms of image quality.
I realize it doesn't meet your requirements, but my primary ILC camera for people photography, is my X-PRO3. My kit includes 18mm, 27mm, 35mm, and the 56mm. I'll back that up either with the X100V or my X-E4.
I know that the X-PRO3 doesn't have a lot of the fancy-schmancy, rocket science, wake you up and make your toast, AF systems of other cameras, plus no IBIS, but that OVF/EVF is so handy in so many ways. In addition the rangefinder setup allows me to maintain contact with my subject. I'm not hidden behind an SLR style body, plus it's not an intimidating camera to be facing. I find that good portraiture is about making that connection with our subjects and the rangefinder style camera makes that task just a bit easier.
The best camera and lens combo for wildlife and sports would be great
If you're not discouraged by manual focusing, I highly recommend picking up a used Z6 and mount a Rokinon 135 f/2 on it...this kit can be had for right around $1100-1200 USD. It is a phenomenal setup and might I say, the combination is awfully easy on the eyes as well because yes, I am one of those people who LOVE looking at the camera and lenses as much as looking through them.
Get the megadep adapter, it turns your manual focus combo into an autofocus combo
Amazing funny and informative video. Great job guys as always!
Best Bang for the Buck for sure is: Nikon Z5 + 50/85mm f1.8!!!
How could you miss that combo?
What do you think re quality of photo detail between most expensive and cheapest set up here .Is one set up worth 10 times more?
I have the Fuji x-s10 paired with the Viltrox 85mm f1.8 and I have to say, it's really fantastic for portraiture.
‘Beautiful’ pink skin-tones in the selections you guys made!
I shoot with Sony A6300 (not as popular as A6100, A6400 or A6600...i know) since 2019, I´ve always used the SEL16-50mm kit lense at 50mm for portraits. But: I want something sharper, faster with built in AF. I thought about SEL 50/1.8 - any other good budget lenses up to 500 USD out there?
Weird, can't find this video on DPR (without a search for 'all videos'). Not listed in 'DPR TV.'
A very timely video. Nicely put DP Review!
My dream setup would be:
X-S10 for everyday use, vlog, street, etc. (I currently own this. My favorite one)
GFX100S for professional, serious work. (my wishlist)
Not a huge fan of the XS10, feels a bit lacking with the looks and the controls, compared to the XT30, or the XT3, but it does have IBIS. Wish they make a XT40 with IBIS that would be the dream, or XT4 but smaller and no flip out screen but the XT3 screen.
Jordans option on each combinations video capability would be useful.....
I wonder what would be a competitive system composed if Pentax K3 III and a 50-80mm Pentax prime? DA 55mm f1.4 perhaps?
Hiya guys! A waaaay off topic question for Chris. Where did you get your tshirt?? Believe it or not I’ve hard a hard time finding something like that. Would love to know where you get em! 😅
It seems like when people say budget gear nowadays they're always starting in the $1,000 range what about real budget gear starting at $500 and below.. I'm pretty sure there are cameras out in that range that take very good photos and video.
Under $500 is almost certainly going to end up being some used Canon EOS APS-C or Sony NEX. Camera manufacturers have decided that the price point you want is never going to happen. People would rather buy a smartphone and take portraits with that than get an ILC.
When you internalise that manufacturers don't want to go cheaper than the likes of the Panasonic S5/Nikon Z90/Sony a6X00 or Canon EOS M50... you'll realise that the camera manufacturers have given up in the budget range - Samsung and Apple will always beat them in that area, and so the question has become "what's the point"?
@@vaska00762 I can agree and disagree with that. Yes you're right about manufacturers pricing on there new cameras but most people who are just getting started in photography won't mind a nice used/refurbished camera. I'm not talking about a camera that shoots awesome photos and video I'm talking about the cameras that can take awesome photos. Most new photographers just want to take beautiful photos and then down the road possibly get into video with a better camera or a camera that's designed around video. I'm pretty sure there are cameras out there below $500 they can take awesome photos or awesome videos new/used. I know in that range you're not going to get a camera that does both.
Also with the Z7 II there is the Z 105mm MC S or you could adapt the G version of the 105 f/1.4 and the FTZ which is a gorgeous portrait setup and still under budget
Am going into my local photographic store with my IOU - let you kn ow kid it works guys great video as always. !!
The GFX100S is my dream too. I've got the XT4 but I am really considering the XS10 as a backup. What do you guys think?
My preference would be Leica lenses: 75mm or 90mm on the SL2-S. In my opinion, Leica glass for portraits can't be beat: sharpness, natural skin tones, smooth fall-off and bokeh are tops. Leica portraits have that "something" that makes the subject "come to life." You can see it.
Interesting and useful suggestion 👍👍👍
do the same but also keeping vintage options in mind!! at 1000$ you can get a KILLER setup using used bodies (ex. canon 5d) and vintage/used lenses (ex. leica r, canon fd)
The XC35mm is also a great portrait lens, I'd say a touch more versatile
As far as type of photography category that you could cover I would really like to know what you would get for remote sport photography. And by remote I don't mean remote control but far away in the woods or mountain. I do sports photography and for events that I can easily access I have a fairly normal setup of a Canon 1d body with 70-200mm + 17-40mm but that setup is way too heavy too carry in the mountains where I have to follow athletes running. The most important aspect is weight but autofocus and image quality are also important. I was thinking a fullframe mirorless with a few primes would be ideal but which ones?
Why there is no micro 4/3 camera option? I think M4/3 has X2 crops, 50mm f1.8 full frame lens becam 100mm.
Under $1000: Olympus E-M10 + 45mm f/1.8. Under $2000: Canon EOS RP + RF 85mm f2. Under $3000: Sony A7C + Sigma 85mm f/1.4. Above that, do you really need any recommendations (because everything will be good)? But if you really need recommendations, get the RF 85mm f/1.2 and then a camera to go behind it.
Would you please do one for video cameras too?
That would be epic ...
Great video for all, thanks cris for your update, please suggest for wedding photography gear setup under 1000$
Personally, I have some great combos. My Panasonic GX-1 (bought second hand) and the Olympus M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 (again second hand). Total cost? a mere £245. The images that it produces are really wonderful, especially for those on a restricted budget, or just want something really small.
And then there is my favourite combo that I have, which is the Pentax K-1 with the SMC-FA 77mm F1.8 Limited, which produces such wonderful portrait images. If I got the DA*55mm F1.4 for My K-3II, that would be a great APS-C combo, especially in the rain. Can't argue with your choice of GFX100S and the 110mm though, that would be a dream. :-D
Haha I love your sense of humor! And the content is also great ;-)
Why stop at 75-100mm? 200mm F2 or 300mm F2.8 can do wonders for tight headshots; could also go with something like a used D700 and one of the manual copies and the whole setup comes under $1k, or get a nicer body and still get near perfect glass with lots of characters that is a fraction of even a new 85 1.4.
Two lenses you should consider, the Virtrox 56mm f/1.4 and the 85mm f/1.8. I have them on order to hook up to my XS-10
I shoot portraits with a Sony A7ii (with battery grip) and the 135mm f1.8 GM. Incredible results with that lens. I can’t wait for the A7iv to be released so I can enjoy eye autofocus in af-c. Thanks for the video!
I lean towards the Sony alpha 7iii (iv when it comes out) with the native SEL85 1.8 or zeiss batis 85mm.
For under 2k$ i would go with a Canon RP with the 85mm f/2. You get fullframe image quality for a very low price. There are many shortcomings with the RP but for portrait I don't think it matter too much.
What about the Fuji X-E3 & the 50mm F2, I feel like that could be a good affordable-ish combo. I'd like to see a video for best wildlife lens.
Good idea. The 50mm f2 is so freaking good and so freaking small
I can't argue with your choices. Good video!
I would love to see a comparison and discussion of current high quality full frame systems (say, an SL2 or SL2S with an SL Summicron) versus a Fujifilm GFX 100S AND 50S II. I added the 50S II because it is also interesting to consider the effect of squeezing 102MP rather than 50MP onto the same size sensor. The bottom line is whether high quality camera and lens combinations with, say, 47MP to 60MP, compete with Fujifilm systems employing their larger-than-full frame sensors.
Depending on how your shooting portraits. For me I am still using DSLR , Nikon D850. As for lenses, I put up with manual focusing for most of my work, that being said it's hard to beat image quality of the Zeiss 135mm.