This is just a complete video to wrap up top ends! Thank for the series! Nice to follow along and awesome to have them numbered to go back for future reference! Thank so much Tinman...❤️
I like the way you clean parts and hands before assembling every part, and oiling parts. Putting moto seal on, I use a pop cycle stick, it save time and wast. Your demeanor and presenting the way work is done is outstanding. Taking the time of the does and don’t goes a long way for those that are starting out, working on any two cycle or four cycle engine. May you continue to teach and improve you Chanel. The Best to you. From one ( OLD ) gear head. Georgia US.
The best chainsaw and small engine channel on RUclips I have come across. Thank u for your instructional and explanation of these engines..things that I have done for over 40 yrs and still did not know fundamental basics..Now I can fully put all this new knowledge in to action
Permatex Motoseal is called Ultragrey in Aus, why I don't know. Got my first Echo the other day, a CS750vl. Such good nick and its a brute, puts out more oil than the Exxon Valdez. Good video as usual Tinman.
Thank you for another great installment of this series Tinman! This series has been the most informative and helpful one on RUclips I have ever seen. Keep up the good work and have a great day!
Thanks! Struggling with piston install. Using homemade piston compressor as I don't do this often. Just installing a Chainsaw rebuild kit for a friend who's hands no longer work.
Tinmaaaaan, great shot of the sur clip flinging from view haha. Great series TM, this is great for the first time saw builder. Always informative as hell, keep em comin Tinman. SLANT'E
Exquisite serie of vids about porting a saw. A lot and lot of info that you don't get in any book. I like the way you do things, I like the way you explain it, it's all plain and simple! I have a question, however, if I may. I saw you didn't use blocking paste on the cylinder screws. I wonder if you think it's not necessary. I mean there are some vibrations in that area, though. Or it'll be put in the part 12, after the silicon cures?😁 Thanks!
I use an xacto knife to put rings on. Once you start walking it over to the bottom, if you take the knife and run it under, it'll walk over smooth as butter with no scratches or damage.
Couple more tips: #1-- Piston rings: I'd thought I was "cheaping out" using zip-ties to hold the rings, but then seeing you use the piston-squeezer I realize you need to use a hand with it.....no way, zip-ties are superior in my book now!! I use the fatty ones (handcuff type) but any zip-ties would achieve the function well, you secure the ring into the groove & the cylinder itself slides the zip-tie off of the bottom of the piston (and you then snip it, obviously :P ) #2-- Cylinder bolts: You do mention cross-bolting, but IMO this is an area to be a real OCD-dork and do a "initial cross-bolting" to squish it tight, *then* back-off those screws to finger-tight, *then* do your actual/final cross-patterned tightening (doing VERY lil tightenings-per-bolt for the first few passes!), I know this sounds anal but if you measure a cylinder the most consistent dimension is base-plate to squish band, this is a critical 'true-ness' to cylinders if you make everything perfect but the cylinder is cocked by 3 thous's on the bottom end then your #'s are out of the window (as is the volumetric efficiency of the engine, of course)
I've always said I was going to make a box like a sandblast cabinet. 2ft deep 3 ft wide and 2 ft tall. Caulk it. Put some led lights in it and a big plexiglass window. Line the floor of it with a magnet and cut 2 arm holes and have an official disassemble / assemble box. Ive spent a year of my life looking for C clips, Orings tiny screws, etc over the years
I found some pliers in Walmartvin the craft section for beadwork it has just the right angle it has notches in then to pet the piston clips in less than 8 dollars
Thanks for the chainsaw assembly videos. It has been really helpful! Is there any issue with aligning the cylinder when you're installing it back on the saw body? I am trying to put my dad's old Stihl 015 back together, and there seems to be some slop in the bolt holes that hold the cylinder to the body. I'm concerned if things aren't aligned right their might be too much stress on the piston rod. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Just wondered if you tried JB Weld on the old T handles, but I see you have a new set now. I've now heard top, bottom, and sides for cir-clips. Top, or bottom makes sense. Side seems like it might compress when the piston changes direction and possibly come out.
Oh and Re tight piston wrist-pins: #1-- put it in the freezer, and only take that wrist-pin out when you're ready to throw it from the freezer into the assembly (it will warm&expand quickly after you take it out), and #2-- I'm gonna need to rewatch this because 1st watch there was a worrying lack of advising newbies "do NOT slam the wrist pin in and put lateral pressure onto the rods, if you can't use your hands then use a block!" Yours slid in quite nicely, but you know how hard they *can* be, someone can very easily hurt their piston rod by slamming w/o securing (it looks like your technique is kinda one wherein you're not using your hands to support the rod, but instead supporting the piston itself which I'd normally *not* do, for fear the whole piston could still move and take that rod with it, but upon seeing you do it I think that's how I'll do it now, am sure I can just have the piston positioned forward and keep pressure between it & the case, bet I could do minor hammer-taps w/o the rod seeing an iota of pressure, thanks :D )
How's it going Tinman, great content. I've recently bought a 2015 576xp then I saw you're vids about them ha ha, I've done the muffler mod like you did on yours and I keep my chains sharp so 🤞. Hi from the UK.
Hey Tin Man love the channel found you via " BBR channel : brother I have a question I'm rebuilding a 83 520 sp jonsered piston and jug how can I test to see if the crank seals are still good in that saw ,would I see oil leaking ,or is there something I can do there a pain to do and if I don't have to mess with it I don't wanna I watched your video on husky seals and learned how you do em ,what should I do brotha ,prob replace is what your gonna tell me lol 🤣 thanks for your time ,keep up the awesome channel ,the Squatch
Morning, To test seals you need to do a pressure and vac test. It involves blocking off the exhaust and intake port and then either pulling vacuum through the impulse line or a nipple inserted into one of the blockoff plates. This will apply vacuum or pressure to see if the seals hold.
Why not use heavier greases/oils during assembly? I keep thinking back to a prior vid (pt.10) where you mention how lil scuffs on the surfaces in the jug are not bad (if they're small enough, obviously) because they "hold oil"....My understanding is this is actually the reason you WANT there to be a "cross-hatched surface finish" on your plating in the cylinder and sides of piston (not truly horizontal, but kinda 'angled horizontal' so it's "shelves" for oil, vertical would not hold as well) But what of this unique moment in the engine's life, its birth into >200 strokes/second, we're still just wiping everything down w/ regular 2-stroke? What of the bearings on the shaft that you hit w/ brake-clean in the last video? You would have to douse that bottom end in grease, like submerged to get those bearings, no? Sorry I just cannot stop thinking of that, in biking the bearing cartridges were seen as so fragile/do-not-touch and the idea of letting wd40 near them was a bad idea, maybe they're more sealed than powersaw bearings.. But for this moment of break-in, I cannot help but think that it'd be better if, before saying "parts are clean & ready for oil", instead of the last step being a full strip in soapy water, IMO it should get that soapy water *then* a heavy rub-down w/ grease (real grease, like Marine Grease by Lucas), *then* wiped with a rag to remove as much of that grease as you can *by rag*....*then* go ahead and call it "clean & ready"!!! Just a thought, I do not do this to the jug surfaces *but* I do pack the roller bearings, the piston-pin, anything like that's seeing hard contact like that (even my chain-tensioner) is getting heavy grease! (even the way you do it at the end "drip a lil 2-stroke onto those bearings" in the case....seeing they were just brought to metal w/ the brake-clean -- hopefully there's no ferrous metals in those alloys down there-- but in that example I have to wonder why, instead of "a lil drip", why not POUR 2-stroke oil in there, and then use gravity&rags to get out any excess? Just can't help worrying those bearing-balls are not being fully lubed in this case :(
Hello I have a Stihl 045Av just had shop put carb kit in it and bench adjust. Runs good and idles good. The problem is when I make a cut it runs good for few seconds then acts like it’s running out of fuel. I adjusted H screw out (counterclockwise wise) seemed to help but did not fix. Is there something else that could be causing a problem? Impulse line or crank seals? I noticed it has a weighted filter and the weight seems to move inside the filter. Is that normal with old filters? Thank you and love the channel
have you try to replace the piston rings pin, they do that with bikes if porting so mutch at the rings risking to stuck in a port.hope you understund what a did mean.not so good in english but a try
Dear Tinman: avid fan and follower of yours. I write out of concern that you work with known carcinogenic chemicals without suitable chemical resistant gloves such as a decent mil nitrile. You’re no doubt doing it for precision purposes and because the circlips and rings are hard to work with. But cleaning your skin directly with brake cleaner is extremely hazardous over time. Your skin is actually a bodily organ and absorbs poisons. Brake cleaner is one of the most dangerous materials to apply directly to your skin. It likely says so on the hazmat labeling. I am a gunsmith and also an amateur power saw restorer. I use nitrile gloves. Gun cleaning sprays are also very carcinogenic. Even with these prophylactic measures I’m still exposing myself to the carcinogens to some degree. I’m very worried for your health m😊 friend. Don’t want to see you get cancer. All of your loyal followers want the Tinman around for as long as possible to keep producing great content. Much of what I know I can attribute to you. I know I’m off topic, but please recognize the risk of having these ultra hazardous materials applied directly to your skin. Merry Christmas. Dan
Thanks again for doing this series! It’s gonna be a beast!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
This is just a complete video to wrap up top ends! Thank for the series! Nice to follow along and awesome to have them numbered to go back for future reference! Thank so much Tinman...❤️
Thanks for all these videos, your a great teacher and make it easy to understand everything.
I like the way you clean parts and hands before assembling every part, and oiling parts.
Putting moto seal on, I use a pop cycle stick, it save time and wast.
Your demeanor and presenting the way work is done is outstanding. Taking the time of the does and don’t goes a long way for those that are starting out, working on any two cycle or four cycle engine.
May you continue to teach and improve you Chanel. The Best to you.
From one ( OLD ) gear head. Georgia US.
❤well done
We need more video about effco or oleo mac chain saw
The best chainsaw and small engine channel on RUclips I have come across. Thank u for your instructional and explanation of these engines..things that I have done for over 40 yrs and still did not know fundamental basics..Now I can fully put all this new knowledge in to action
Come all ye 2 stroke faithfull!!!!
Faithful and triumphant 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
tinman ,am excited am going to do my first piston change on my 162se ,i hope it dont go boom lol,peace an love from scotland stu an family.
Permatex Motoseal is called Ultragrey in Aus, why I don't know. Got my first Echo the other day, a CS750vl. Such good nick and its a brute, puts out more oil than the Exxon Valdez. Good video as usual Tinman.
Loving this series. I know your a tin man but your also a bit of a teacher. Thanks.
Bless you Tinman for another amazing educational video!!!
What an series, best on youtube award!!!
Thank you for another great installment of this series Tinman! This series has been the most informative and helpful one on RUclips I have ever seen. Keep up the good work and have a great day!
C clamp works great .
Thanks! Struggling with piston install. Using homemade piston compressor as I don't do this often. Just installing a Chainsaw rebuild kit for a friend who's hands no longer work.
Great video, great series. Thank you. I'll be porting my 056 Super, soon.
Super good reminders for a guy, especially on key points for assembly lube.
I really like the red plastic ring squeeze and they work great
Cant wait till you get in the 590 and see what you do. Thanks for the videos
Bloody brilliant Tinman.
A cracking series 🤘
Great tips can't wait to see it break in an wake up and rip hope all is well in the wounderful world of Tinman have a good week buddy.
Another great video always showing and telling CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Thanks Tinman. Cheers
Great vids from point A to Z. Thank you.
Great Tinman.
I'll be paying close attention to how you break it in.
I'm really enjoying watching series Tinman....🤙🤙
Tinmaaaaan, great shot of the sur clip flinging from view haha. Great series TM, this is great for the first time saw builder. Always informative as hell, keep em comin Tinman. SLANT'E
looks good very nice
Exquisite serie of vids about porting a saw. A lot and lot of info that you don't get in any book. I like the way you do things, I like the way you explain it, it's all plain and simple!
I have a question, however, if I may. I saw you didn't use blocking paste on the cylinder screws. I wonder if you think it's not necessary. I mean there are some vibrations in that area, though.
Or it'll be put in the part 12, after the silicon cures?😁
Thanks!
Thanks for the video Tinman! I learned a lot once again. Take care brother! 🤙
I use an xacto knife to put rings on. Once you start walking it over to the bottom, if you take the knife and run it under, it'll walk over smooth as butter with no scratches or damage.
Couple more tips:
#1-- Piston rings: I'd thought I was "cheaping out" using zip-ties to hold the rings, but then seeing you use the piston-squeezer I realize you need to use a hand with it.....no way, zip-ties are superior in my book now!! I use the fatty ones (handcuff type) but any zip-ties would achieve the function well, you secure the ring into the groove & the cylinder itself slides the zip-tie off of the bottom of the piston (and you then snip it, obviously :P )
#2-- Cylinder bolts: You do mention cross-bolting, but IMO this is an area to be a real OCD-dork and do a "initial cross-bolting" to squish it tight, *then* back-off those screws to finger-tight, *then* do your actual/final cross-patterned tightening (doing VERY lil tightenings-per-bolt for the first few passes!), I know this sounds anal but if you measure a cylinder the most consistent dimension is base-plate to squish band, this is a critical 'true-ness' to cylinders if you make everything perfect but the cylinder is cocked by 3 thous's on the bottom end then your #'s are out of the window (as is the volumetric efficiency of the engine, of course)
I use Permatex Ultra slick it's like thick as molasses and stick to engine parts really good
I've always said I was going to make a box like a sandblast cabinet. 2ft deep 3 ft wide and 2 ft tall. Caulk it. Put some led lights in it and a big plexiglass window. Line the floor of it with a magnet and cut 2 arm holes and have an official disassemble / assemble box. Ive spent a year of my life looking for C clips, Orings tiny screws, etc over the years
Haha yep them clips going flying
Great info. Looking forward to seeing her running. 😀
Great series buddy, Loving it! 🤟
i use zip tie to compress the rings
THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT ASSEMBLY TIPS ,YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN A GREAT SMALL ENGINES TEACHER BUDDY✊✊✊✊✊
Thanks Steve
Graciasss
Great video. Thanks for information
I found some pliers in Walmartvin the craft section for beadwork it has just the right angle it has notches in then to pet the piston clips in less than 8 dollars
Another great series.. keep it up Sir
Hey buddy good yo see ya
I always have a hard time with the snap rings for the wrist pins.
Thanks for the chainsaw assembly videos. It has been really helpful! Is there any issue with aligning the cylinder when you're installing it back on the saw body? I am trying to put my dad's old Stihl 015 back together, and there seems to be some slop in the bolt holes that hold the cylinder to the body. I'm concerned if things aren't aligned right their might be too much stress on the piston rod. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
You can put the piston into a warm oven for a few minutes and it will go together easier. 140* is usually enough if the pin is tight.
Just wondered if you tried JB Weld on the old T handles, but I see you have a new set now. I've now heard top, bottom, and sides for cir-clips. Top, or bottom makes sense. Side seems like it might compress when the piston changes direction and possibly come out.
I like to use a piston pin puller to return the pin.
Doin a great job buddy!
Oh and Re tight piston wrist-pins:
#1-- put it in the freezer, and only take that wrist-pin out when you're ready to throw it from the freezer into the assembly (it will warm&expand quickly after you take it out), and
#2-- I'm gonna need to rewatch this because 1st watch there was a worrying lack of advising newbies "do NOT slam the wrist pin in and put lateral pressure onto the rods, if you can't use your hands then use a block!"
Yours slid in quite nicely, but you know how hard they *can* be, someone can very easily hurt their piston rod by slamming w/o securing (it looks like your technique is kinda one wherein you're not using your hands to support the rod, but instead supporting the piston itself which I'd normally *not* do, for fear the whole piston could still move and take that rod with it, but upon seeing you do it I think that's how I'll do it now, am sure I can just have the piston positioned forward and keep pressure between it & the case, bet I could do minor hammer-taps w/o the rod seeing an iota of pressure, thanks :D )
Thank you, sir!
Nice since ever! Thanks for sharing! I didn´t get what type of blue oil you use when assembling the motor...?
Thanks Tiffany for sharing your expertise. Question: What brand are your T-Handles?
make it look easy bro
You should put a nitrous kit for the saw... surprised you can actually do that!
How's it going Tinman, great content. I've recently bought a 2015 576xp then I saw you're vids about them ha ha, I've done the muffler mod like you did on yours and I keep my chains sharp so 🤞. Hi from the UK.
Hey buddy thanks for being here, I really like my 576xp.
Is there a top an bottom ring ? And is there an intake and exhaust side to a piston??
Hey Tin Man love the channel found you via " BBR channel : brother I have a question I'm rebuilding a 83 520 sp jonsered piston and jug how can I test to see if the crank seals are still good in that saw ,would I see oil leaking ,or is there something I can do there a pain to do and if I don't have to mess with it I don't wanna I watched your video on husky seals and learned how you do em ,what should I do brotha ,prob replace is what your gonna tell me lol 🤣 thanks for your time ,keep up the awesome channel ,the Squatch
Morning,
To test seals you need to do a pressure and vac test.
It involves blocking off the exhaust and intake port and then either pulling vacuum through the impulse line or a nipple inserted into one of the blockoff plates.
This will apply vacuum or pressure to see if the seals hold.
What should my squish be on a saw.
"Pants first then shoes" :)
😎
How do you acertain which way up/down the ring goes on the piston bro?
Why not use heavier greases/oils during assembly? I keep thinking back to a prior vid (pt.10) where you mention how lil scuffs on the surfaces in the jug are not bad (if they're small enough, obviously) because they "hold oil"....My understanding is this is actually the reason you WANT there to be a "cross-hatched surface finish" on your plating in the cylinder and sides of piston (not truly horizontal, but kinda 'angled horizontal' so it's "shelves" for oil, vertical would not hold as well)
But what of this unique moment in the engine's life, its birth into >200 strokes/second, we're still just wiping everything down w/ regular 2-stroke? What of the bearings on the shaft that you hit w/ brake-clean in the last video? You would have to douse that bottom end in grease, like submerged to get those bearings, no? Sorry I just cannot stop thinking of that, in biking the bearing cartridges were seen as so fragile/do-not-touch and the idea of letting wd40 near them was a bad idea, maybe they're more sealed than powersaw bearings..
But for this moment of break-in, I cannot help but think that it'd be better if, before saying "parts are clean & ready for oil", instead of the last step being a full strip in soapy water, IMO it should get that soapy water *then* a heavy rub-down w/ grease (real grease, like Marine Grease by Lucas), *then* wiped with a rag to remove as much of that grease as you can *by rag*....*then* go ahead and call it "clean & ready"!!!
Just a thought, I do not do this to the jug surfaces *but* I do pack the roller bearings, the piston-pin, anything like that's seeing hard contact like that (even my chain-tensioner) is getting heavy grease!
(even the way you do it at the end "drip a lil 2-stroke onto those bearings" in the case....seeing they were just brought to metal w/ the brake-clean -- hopefully there's no ferrous metals in those alloys down there-- but in that example I have to wonder why, instead of "a lil drip", why not POUR 2-stroke oil in there, and then use gravity&rags to get out any excess? Just can't help worrying those bearing-balls are not being fully lubed in this case :(
Hello I have a Stihl 045Av just had shop put carb kit in it and bench adjust. Runs good and idles good. The problem is when I make a cut it runs good for few seconds then acts like it’s running out of fuel. I adjusted H screw out (counterclockwise wise) seemed to help but did not fix. Is there something else that could be causing a problem? Impulse line or crank seals? I noticed it has a weighted filter and the weight seems to move inside the filter. Is that normal with old filters? Thank you and love the channel
I'd check the impulse line, fuel filter and tank vent.
@@tinmanssaws thank you!
have you try to replace the piston rings pin, they do that with bikes if porting so mutch at the rings risking to stuck in a port.hope you understund what a did mean.not so good in english but a try
Hey buddy I've never changed the pins on a piston.
@@tinmanssaws ok. was only wondering because it would be intresting to see how to do it.
Comment from me.
thank you
Do you ever check ring end gap?
I didnt check on this saw as the gap looked fine and it had/has huge compression.
Medium loctite on the screws?
Yep the blue removable stuff. Seems yo work
Dear Tinman: avid fan and follower of yours. I write out of concern that you work with known carcinogenic chemicals without suitable chemical resistant gloves such as a decent mil nitrile. You’re no doubt doing it for precision purposes and because the circlips and rings are hard to work with. But cleaning your skin directly with brake cleaner is extremely hazardous over time. Your skin is actually a bodily organ and absorbs poisons. Brake cleaner is one of the most dangerous materials to apply directly to your skin. It likely says so on the hazmat labeling. I am a gunsmith and also an amateur power saw restorer. I use nitrile gloves. Gun cleaning sprays are also very carcinogenic. Even with these prophylactic measures I’m still exposing myself to the carcinogens to some degree. I’m very worried for your health m😊 friend. Don’t want to see you get cancer. All of your loyal followers want the Tinman around for as long as possible to keep producing great content. Much of what I know I can attribute to you. I know I’m off topic, but please recognize the risk of having these ultra hazardous materials applied directly to your skin. Merry Christmas. Dan