Very nice job! For the strongback I would do it like Johan did it in RAN Sailing (EP 333). Threaded rods into the ground, wooden slats can be altered in height by adjusting the nuts on the rods.
My approach is a bit different from theirs. I have now made the frames so that their ends lay on the bulwark and there's no things keeping them up in the middle. Making traditional strongback would require me to make very strong and stiff temporary structures to every frame. Which also would be a lot of work and also temporary materials! I have couple of ideas to test. But I'm still leaning toward the simple planed boards on the floor. We'll see.
A very tight and level piano wire from stem to stern, around which you build the boat, is the traditional way to do this. No need for planing or floor station boards. I would use 3 to 5 light, temporary, flexible beams of 50x25mm or so, horizontally on the inside of the stations at the beam to deck joint, the bilge line or waterline and centrally down the keel line to orientate the stations in the vertical with screws. Each station can then be propped up with a post onto the floor with screws to port, starboard and at the centreline. Hulls have been built, keel up, this way since Roman times.
Howdy Buono(??) Good to see you back at it. The simple way to level the floor frames is using carpenters shims. They vary in thickness from 0 .5 to 5mm. You can buy a box of them for a couple of bucks. Good luck mate Cheers Hugh
I have those shims in use for the frame molds and also under the table and CNC. They come in set of 1 to 5mm thick. But I'm not convinced them to stay still well enough under the boards/whatever i'm putting there. I might try them though. Maybe if I drill through them... 🤔
The stem is incredibly beautiful with all level lines. Its shape has a strong expression. Sometime in the future when the boat is finished, maybe you can transfer these beautiful lines into a building or sculpture?
Brilliant - I love this project and your dedication - not to mention ingenuity - in getting it done. Wishing you good luck throughout and hope your day job doesn't get in the way too much :)
I save family toothbrushes for use to spread epoxy in small areas. A notched plastic trowel is good for evenly spreading thickened epoxy. the epoxy comes off the trowel after curing so is reuseable.
I think your third option is good, though I'd first bolt one set of 2x4s to the concrete and then install a second set on top that you can plane. This way you are not bolting and unbolting to the concrete while you're planning...
Think to always , always use protection for your lungs when you are using silica/ filler compound, that’s is some nasty shit to breath in . We want to see you launch the boat one day . Otherwise the structure is coming along fine
i would just make 2 parallell runs of 18 mm plywood as a building jig, where you would insert the frames at the correct intervals (building upside down of course) those 2 runs of plywood would be spaced apart from each other width and lenght wise. im assuming you are going to either strip plank, cold mold or even mixing the 2 methods. i woldnt worry about the gunwales i would leave that after you turned the hull right side up. you can even incorporate a step on the building jig (since you would design all of this in Cad) to help you move along the hull when it comes time plank at bigger heights (turn of the bilge and then closing up the hulll). this will save you a lot of travel up and down not only to plank, but also in laminating, fairing, sanding, sanding, sanding, more sanding, then painting and a lot more sanding for that also
I will explain a little bit more through-out the process of making the boat structure in coming videos. But there's bunch of things I want to do before putting in the hull planking: Keel and stem, mast steps and their packings, structures around the rudder mount, attachment things for the ballast keels, clamp molding beam around the sides, side decks etc. So I need solid surface all around the boat and under the frame ends to keep them in place while doing all this. And actually there will be those parallel plywood runs on the middle to support and position the keel and frames!
Did I hear you say you were going to plane the boards you are fitting to the floor at each station? If so then that is way too much work. The boards will be fixed to the floor so plan to have spacers under the board at each fixing point. Here in the UK you can buy bags of plastic spacers used to align window and door frames. They come in assorted thicknesses.
This is a thing I've been thinking a lot. There's still couple of options here but thinking of planing those boards in level actually doesn't sound that big of a job... But I'll test them first! Maybe I'll use combination of spacers and plaining eventually...
Hi - I am enjoying watching your progress. I really like that you are trying innovative methods/ tools etc. for your project. Since you have asked for suggestions, I offer the following Ideas. (this has been used by other builders to easily deal with uneven floors) For the base to build the boat I have the following suggestions. (I think that they may be less work and quicker than what you are proposing). 1. Epoxy long threaded rods vertically in the appropriate positions on the floor. Then thread 2 nuts followed by a large flat washer a few centimetres from the floor. 2a. Either use these rods to attach horizontal beams at right angles to the centre line of the boat at 2 metres intervals (say) You would need about 8 beams. Then hold the beams down with a large flat washer and two nuts on top of the beams (the other two nuts and washers are underneath the beams). the height and levelling of the beams can be achieved by adjusting the nuts up or down the threaded rods. The second nut (top and bottom) is used as a means to lock the beam in position. This can then be used as a "strong back" to build your boat and can also be adjusted easily if required. 2b. The threaded rods can be used to support an alternative longitudinal structures such as depicted near the end of your video.The adjustment and locking would be similar to the method as described above. This would save a lot of time and work (and money) for the method you mentioned in your video. Whatever method you choose it will intriguing to follow your progress, good luck.
You should check out ran sailing they are building a boat around the same size as yours in and old barn and had to level there's maybe you could get some ideas.
Been following them closely! Great project! However we're doing the boat a little different methods. I have structural frames that they don't have. And that way I don't need that much temporary frames (there will be few though) but I need to place the actual boat frames on the floor accurately. Also I'm utilizing CNC as much as possible :)
Thank you for the video. I like the wood and laser level idea best gives the most control over time and can be checked as construction proceeds. So once the hull is built how will you flip a boat that big over in the shop? Will you have to remove part of the building cover to use a crane?
Thanks! Boat hull will fit out from the shed through the doorway. The actual flip will be done outside, just at the driveway. Two cranes can be used for that on the road.
@@ArcticSeaCamel It never occurred to me that you could move a 15 m boat out of the shed but as I once moved a1.5 ton transformer 30m with a lever and some small pipes by myself, well of coarse...slaps myself on the forehead and says "doh".
@@toddablett4493 Yeah. It shouldn't be that big of a problem to move it. The driveway is longer than the shed and it's done pretty well just for this reason! :)
What about a "box" nailed to the floor, as long as the yacht but just say 1.5m wide to then be filled with that "levelling" stuff to say 2.5 cm. Would that not use less of it.
Very nice job! For the strongback I would do it like Johan did it in RAN Sailing (EP 333). Threaded rods into the ground, wooden slats can be altered in height by adjusting the nuts on the rods.
My approach is a bit different from theirs. I have now made the frames so that their ends lay on the bulwark and there's no things keeping them up in the middle. Making traditional strongback would require me to make very strong and stiff temporary structures to every frame. Which also would be a lot of work and also temporary materials!
I have couple of ideas to test. But I'm still leaning toward the simple planed boards on the floor. We'll see.
One of the very most ingenious way to built a boat, way to go! Hyvää jatkoa! A Finn in Canada!
Ever week I look for your videos.
A very tight and level piano wire from stem to stern, around which you build the boat, is the traditional way to do this. No need for planing or floor station boards. I would use 3 to 5 light, temporary, flexible beams of 50x25mm or so, horizontally on the inside of the stations at the beam to deck joint, the bilge line or waterline and centrally down the keel line to orientate the stations in the vertical with screws. Each station can then be propped up with a post onto the floor with screws to port, starboard and at the centreline. Hulls have been built, keel up, this way since Roman times.
Great contribution!
Howdy Buono(??) Good to see you back at it. The simple way to level the floor frames is using carpenters shims. They vary in thickness from
0 .5 to 5mm. You can buy a box of them for a couple of bucks. Good luck mate
Cheers Hugh
I have those shims in use for the frame molds and also under the table and CNC. They come in set of 1 to 5mm thick. But I'm not convinced them to stay still well enough under the boards/whatever i'm putting there. I might try them though. Maybe if I drill through them... 🤔
Or a bit of hot glue or something similar
Cheers mate
The stem is incredibly beautiful with all level lines. Its shape has a strong expression. Sometime in the future when the boat is finished, maybe you can transfer these beautiful lines into a building or sculpture?
I could make something like this in smaller scale as sculptures 🤔😍
I like the build and I like your music also.
Brilliant - I love this project and your dedication - not to mention ingenuity - in getting it done. Wishing you good luck throughout and hope your day job doesn't get in the way too much :)
I save family toothbrushes for use to spread epoxy in small areas. A notched plastic trowel is good for evenly spreading thickened epoxy. the epoxy comes off the trowel after curing so is reuseable.
Having you thought process presented shows us all the alternatives . Very interesting to me
Your plan is innovative and simple, stick with it.
flox is the best thickening agent for any lamination's ! it's cotton fibers !
bravo. tres beau travail.
I think your third option is good, though I'd first bolt one set of 2x4s to the concrete and then install a second set on top that you can plane. This way you are not bolting and unbolting to the concrete while you're planning...
You are doing good.👍⛵️
You should be wearing a respirator when handling that silica
Think to always , always use protection for your lungs when you are using silica/ filler compound, that’s is some nasty shit to breath in . We want to see you launch the boat one day . Otherwise the structure is coming along fine
I don't quite remember, but if your deck platform is flat, maybe you can create and level it, attach the frames upside down to it ?
I’ll explain this a bit in next video! ☺️
Hectic work situation right now but I hope I get to edit it soon.
I too believe in using shims to align all wood products once all are leveled begin attaching all together
Many sleepless nights methinks!
Hi great project, I’m very envious. Hey is your plan to cut the bulkheads down to the plywood shape when your ready???
Yes, all the plywood/sheet materials will be cut with CNC to accurate shape. Including bulkheads etc. :)
Wondering if you are going to insulate and heat the tent so you can work through the winter. Looking good👍
Working on it - to get funds and materials for that. Weather is getting quite chilly already.
i would just make 2 parallell runs of 18 mm plywood as a building jig, where you would insert the frames at the correct intervals (building upside down of course) those 2 runs of plywood would be spaced apart from each other width and lenght wise. im assuming you are going to either strip plank, cold mold or even mixing the 2 methods. i woldnt worry about the gunwales i would leave that after you turned the hull right side up. you can even incorporate a step on the building jig (since you would design all of this in Cad) to help you move along the hull when it comes time plank at bigger heights (turn of the bilge and then closing up the hulll). this will save you a lot of travel up and down not only to plank, but also in laminating, fairing, sanding, sanding, sanding, more sanding, then painting and a lot more sanding for that also
I will explain a little bit more through-out the process of making the boat structure in coming videos.
But there's bunch of things I want to do before putting in the hull planking:
Keel and stem, mast steps and their packings, structures around the rudder mount, attachment things for the ballast keels, clamp molding beam around the sides, side decks etc. So I need solid surface all around the boat and under the frame ends to keep them in place while doing all this.
And actually there will be those parallel plywood runs on the middle to support and position the keel and frames!
Did I hear you say you were going to plane the boards you are fitting to the floor at each station? If so then that is way too much work.
The boards will be fixed to the floor so plan to have spacers under the board at each fixing point. Here in the UK you can buy bags of plastic spacers used to align window and door frames. They come in assorted thicknesses.
This is a thing I've been thinking a lot. There's still couple of options here but thinking of planing those boards in level actually doesn't sound that big of a job... But I'll test them first!
Maybe I'll use combination of spacers and plaining eventually...
Hi - I am enjoying watching your progress. I really like that you are trying innovative methods/ tools etc. for your project. Since you have asked for suggestions, I offer the following Ideas. (this has been used by other builders to easily deal with uneven floors)
For the base to build the boat I have the following suggestions. (I think that they may be less work and quicker than what you are proposing).
1. Epoxy long threaded rods vertically in the appropriate positions on the floor. Then thread 2 nuts followed by a large flat washer a few centimetres from the floor.
2a. Either use these rods to attach horizontal beams at right angles to the centre line of the boat at 2 metres intervals (say) You would need about 8 beams. Then hold the beams down with a large flat washer and two nuts on top of the beams (the other two nuts and washers are underneath the beams). the height and levelling of the beams can be achieved by adjusting the nuts up or down the threaded rods. The second nut (top and bottom) is used as a means to lock the beam in position. This can then be used as a "strong back" to build your boat and can also be adjusted easily if required.
2b. The threaded rods can be used to support an alternative longitudinal structures such as depicted near the end of your video.The adjustment and locking would be similar to the method as described above.
This would save a lot of time and work (and money) for the method you mentioned in your video.
Whatever method you choose it will intriguing to follow your progress, good luck.
You should check out ran sailing they are building a boat around the same size as yours in and old barn and had to level there's maybe you could get some ideas.
Been following them closely! Great project!
However we're doing the boat a little different methods. I have structural frames that they don't have. And that way I don't need that much temporary frames (there will be few though) but I need to place the actual boat frames on the floor accurately.
Also I'm utilizing CNC as much as possible :)
Thank you for the video. I like the wood and laser level idea best gives the most control over time and can be checked as construction proceeds. So once the hull is built how will you flip a boat that big over in the shop? Will you have to remove part of the building cover to use a crane?
Thanks! Boat hull will fit out from the shed through the doorway. The actual flip will be done outside, just at the driveway. Two cranes can be used for that on the road.
@@ArcticSeaCamel It never occurred to me that you could move a 15 m boat out of the shed but as I once moved a1.5 ton transformer 30m with a lever and some small pipes by myself, well of coarse...slaps myself on the forehead and says "doh".
@@toddablett4493 Yeah. It shouldn't be that big of a problem to move it. The driveway is longer than the shed and it's done pretty well just for this reason! :)
Brass dowels?? It be sweet
Nope, they're going to be just pine. No need for metal there... 😅
What about a "box" nailed to the floor, as long as the yacht but just say 1.5m wide to then be
filled with that "levelling" stuff to say 2.5 cm. Would that not use less of it.
I would really need the leveled surface to be under the bulwarks - so as wide as the boat...
@@ArcticSeaCamel , yes I forgot that.
Hou manny foot is the boot
I think I have mentioned that it’s 15 meter. 😜
If I calculate it from there, it should be something like 50 feet in this weird measuring system.
You going to need a cat, dog or parrot for true levity.
After getting insulation (and thus making the shed cat-proof) I might get one of our cats there to hang out 😅
little less talking would be munch better for your channel we all no what you are trying to accomplish🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂
Keep talking……we need all the explanations. Thank you for great content.
Thank you for all your esplainers.
More doing- less babbling