I've got the solution for you. And it fixes 2 issues. -Remove all current junk from this leaking area. -Get a piece of flat metal, probably 3 mm thick. (might want to heat it up a bit) -Smash it into shape, so it +/- covers the (pin)holes. Now you've got a patch plate. -Clean up the surface and tack weld the plate on in 1 opposing corners. -Get a drill, and drill trough the patch plate AND the tank itself. -Grind off the tack welds and remove the patch plate. -Check how good/bad the quality of the tank is. -DRAIN THE TANK OF ANY LIQUIDS. -Let it dry up as much as possible, and just spray a can of rust converter/primer into the tank. -Roll it around a bit so the entire thing gets covered on the inside. Let it dry. Depending on patch plate size, you could drill a few holes in the patch plate, to use as plug weld spots. -Line up the holes perfectly (maybe round end of the drill used?) and weld all around the patch plate and the optional spot welds. -Apply paint. -Get an air hose valve. -Tap threads in the initially created hole. -Insert air hose valve. This is now your WATER DRAIN PORT. Bob might be your uncle. Sidenote 1: I've got a trash-tier quality flux-core welder. My skills are meh at times, but I have been able to weld 0.8 mm thick sheet metal. Blowing holes isn't fun, but you should be skipping the really thin spots at this point. And if you do blow holes while welding, it only increases your skill: you've learned a thing. And you learn more things while stitching it back together. Sidenote 2: I do not know if the welding seriously reduced the strength of the metal. Not a metallurgy person. Sidenote 3: with a decent amount of pressure, I wouldn't risk my hand/eyes/head/anything, so don't get too close to such rust leaks. Sidenote 4: unless the patch materials you used are intended for a marine application, or could be applied while in contact with water, you were doomed to fail IMO.
Thank you for your comment, this sounds like a great idea if you have a welder, and a torch, which I don't. I ended up using fiberglass that was rated to be used with water. I can tell you, even though the video is not out yet it no longer leaks. Will it hold up? Only time will tell. Getting a welder is definitely on my bucket list. :)
@@Differentthings2006 I bought my trash-tier flux-core welder 10 years ago from a brick and mortar store. Cheapest I could find, ~200 euros. Has just 2 switches and a knob. Intended/came with 0.8 mm wire. These days you can get a very similar budget welder for 100-150 euros, and I highly recommend it. Big advantage for me vs welding with gas is: no gas. I keep a bunch of wire in their sealed water proof packaging. It will remain good until the end of times. If you only on occasion weld with gas, you bottle will most likely leak ever so slightly. Or you forgot to buy new gas. Flux-core is always there when you need it, and it's WAY more easy vs stick welding. You also mentioned a torch... I called it optional, and you don't NEED a torch. I've got the random BBQ, or DIY made garden heater. That's how I'd heat up metal if I need to. (vid of my garden heater is called "Fireplace from an old gas bottle and scrap metal", not a cross-channel plug, YT for me is just a file sharing platform)
I agree, but I have brought it up above the pressure that I'm going to be running it at many times, there has been no failure or sign of failure. And I deafly don't have the budget for a new tank but if I find one in better condition, I'll certainly use it.
I've got the solution for you. And it fixes 2 issues.
-Remove all current junk from this leaking area.
-Get a piece of flat metal, probably 3 mm thick. (might want to heat it up a bit)
-Smash it into shape, so it +/- covers the (pin)holes.
Now you've got a patch plate.
-Clean up the surface and tack weld the plate on in 1 opposing corners.
-Get a drill, and drill trough the patch plate AND the tank itself.
-Grind off the tack welds and remove the patch plate.
-Check how good/bad the quality of the tank is.
-DRAIN THE TANK OF ANY LIQUIDS.
-Let it dry up as much as possible, and just spray a can of rust converter/primer into the tank.
-Roll it around a bit so the entire thing gets covered on the inside. Let it dry.
Depending on patch plate size, you could drill a few holes in the patch plate, to use as plug weld spots.
-Line up the holes perfectly (maybe round end of the drill used?) and weld all around the patch plate and the optional spot welds.
-Apply paint.
-Get an air hose valve.
-Tap threads in the initially created hole.
-Insert air hose valve. This is now your WATER DRAIN PORT.
Bob might be your uncle.
Sidenote 1: I've got a trash-tier quality flux-core welder. My skills are meh at times, but I have been able to weld 0.8 mm thick sheet metal. Blowing holes isn't fun, but you should be skipping the really thin spots at this point. And if you do blow holes while welding, it only increases your skill: you've learned a thing. And you learn more things while stitching it back together.
Sidenote 2: I do not know if the welding seriously reduced the strength of the metal. Not a metallurgy person.
Sidenote 3: with a decent amount of pressure, I wouldn't risk my hand/eyes/head/anything, so don't get too close to such rust leaks.
Sidenote 4: unless the patch materials you used are intended for a marine application, or could be applied while in contact with water, you were doomed to fail IMO.
Thank you for your comment, this sounds like a great idea if you have a welder, and a torch, which I don't. I ended up using fiberglass that was rated to be used with water. I can tell you, even though the video is not out yet it no longer leaks. Will it hold up? Only time will tell. Getting a welder is definitely on my bucket list. :)
@@Differentthings2006 I bought my trash-tier flux-core welder 10 years ago from a brick and mortar store. Cheapest I could find, ~200 euros. Has just 2 switches and a knob. Intended/came with 0.8 mm wire.
These days you can get a very similar budget welder for 100-150 euros, and I highly recommend it.
Big advantage for me vs welding with gas is: no gas. I keep a bunch of wire in their sealed water proof packaging. It will remain good until the end of times. If you only on occasion weld with gas, you bottle will most likely leak ever so slightly. Or you forgot to buy new gas. Flux-core is always there when you need it, and it's WAY more easy vs stick welding.
You also mentioned a torch... I called it optional, and you don't NEED a torch. I've got the random BBQ, or DIY made garden heater. That's how I'd heat up metal if I need to. (vid of my garden heater is called "Fireplace from an old gas bottle and scrap metal", not a cross-channel plug, YT for me is just a file sharing platform)
@@Jahee-Official Yeah, I will definitely keep my eyes peeled for a cheep welder.
Good try with that resin. Didn't work this time, but next time you may find a great innovation. Who knows.
Yeah, I need to get some gasoline and oil proof epoxy resin.
You can get a new tank for about $400 to $800 depending on size and brand. Expensive but cheaper than if it explodes and hurts someone.
I agree, but I have brought it up above the pressure that I'm going to be running it at many times, there has been no failure or sign of failure. And I deafly don't have the budget for a new tank but if I find one in better condition, I'll certainly use it.
@@Differentthings2006 to make sure its good, hydro test it to three times working pressure.
@@JoshKilen That would be a good idea, although I don't really have a way of pressurizing it to such high pressure.
@@Differentthings2006 pressure washer.