Wildlife Photography Tips: How to Use Exposure Compensation (Canon)
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Wildlife Photography - how to use Exposure Compensation. How do you know when to apply some exposure compensation? In this video I show you common situations where you need to override the camera's meter to achieve a better exposure. This mostly applies if you're using a Semi Automatic mode such as AV and TV, and when shooting in Evaluative/Matrix metering. I'm applying these changes on my Canon 1DX, but many other cameras will be similar in this technique. If you find this information useful please give it a like and share.
Watch a more in-depth video on Exposure in Wildlife Photography here: • Wildlife Photography E...
Filmed with Canon M50 and 15-45mm lens.
Equipment: Canon 1DX Mark i; Canon 500mm f4 Mark i lens; Induro CT404 Tripod; Movo GH700 Gimbal
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Hell u solved my problem I was thinking about it is a camera fault .... But u are great .... Now I know why my camera under and over exposes images
Another great video but need to remind to set compensation back to 0 when done shooting.
Brilliant! You explained it so well and two backgrounds you showed are ones that I photograph against quite a lot - so now I know what to do to get better images. Thanks!
Very helpfull again , tnx for sharing.
Once again, thanks for taking the time to share your experience with us. Watching your videos is allways a momento of joy.
The juvenile goshawk at 1:55 is just brilliant!
Best wishes!
Thank you my friend. The goshawk was very special indeed.
good examples
Great vid buddy, crystal clear 👌😎
Great video once again! 👍 I usually use histogram and auto ISO when shooting birds. Exposure is easy to correct in post-production when shooting raw images.
Histogram is a great tool - especially for white birds.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Yep! I just published a video of swans and castle ruins on my RUclips channel.
I absolutely love your videos, so clear, direct and even I understand :)
Thank you so much Colm. That's the best feedback I can get.
Hi Paul short but very informative nice job. Until next time take care my friend
Very informative, thanks for sharing
Thank you Mr Miguel.
Great for auto shooters but manual settings is the best method and its really simple....All you need is to Manually shoot and spot read one single tone whether it be black, white or grey. Spot read any thing in the same light as your subject or a particular spot on your subject. A white egret in direct sun ( white with detail) will require two and three thirds stop of light more than yout meter suggests. And (black with detail) like a black bears fur will require two and two thirds of light under your metered reading. All camera meters do one thing transfer all tones to a midtone. Your cameras meter will want to subtract light for white and add light to black to transfer them to a grey midtone. Every cameras histogram is divided into five boxes of (255 shades of grey) from the left at 0 zero (total black) to 127 one hundred twenty seven in center(midtone grey) and on right (pure white) at 255 two hundred fifty five. Canon camers box represent one and a third stops for each box. And Nikon is one and two thirds stops in each box. I know that three clicks on my dials equals one stop of light ( I set my shutter,aperture and i.s.o. in one thrd stop increments) Top dial( main control dial)turning right is under and left to over...rear(control dial)turning right is under and left is over Now decide which is more important speed or depth of field. And turn that dial. Remember three clicks in opposite directions on both dials is no exposure change. After my first shot I check the RGB histogram and depending on where my tones are on the histogram I know how many stops I need to get a perfect exposure. Whether add or subtract to get my tones to where they fall into the correct area in my histogram. Then I have nothing else to do as long as my subject stays in the same light those settings will continue to produce perfectly exposed images. I can zoom in or zoom out my subject can move in front of a different tonality and these settings will maintain a perfect exposure.
Anytime you use auto anything your cameras meter will be fooled if you zoom in or out or your subject moves in front of a dark mangrove it will want to change camera settings to get you back to what was a perfect exposure. And in manual YOU SET IT AND FORGET IT.
Wonderful video!
a good one to go with this/next would be using white balance / type of light setting, i recently had to take some pics of shiny swords (i now all the cream) on our bedroom wall with just led room bulbs peachy/orange background initially it was coming out dark subject and over yellow exposure, after i messed about with the custom white balance and shutter speed iwas able to get a nice crisp well balanced pic.
love the vids, great stuff Paul
Thanks for that. Yes, I might do that.
Especially if you shoot in RAW, as long as the image gets plenty of light (maybe a little over-exposed) you can easily correct it in post-production. This is true with all negative films too. There's no way to correct shadow detail that isn't there (under-exposure) with digital or film. Histograms are your very good friends!
You can also use exposure compensation in manual mode if you set up Auto ISO. This will adjust only what the camera has control of which is the ISO. You can and should use it with Highlight-Weighted meter setting on a Nikon, not just matrix metering mode
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Judah Angelo instablaster ;)
@@judahangelo1901 it's called click on forgot password and they will send you a link to you email to set a new password. Otherwise, no. That's the security for the account. If you don't have access to the email account, that means it's not your account
@Nathan Elliot I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Nathan Elliot it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
100% correct, great music.
Thanks Paul a great explanation. Subscribed!
Welcome Matthew. Thank you very much indeed.
Hi Paul, first time viewer to your channel .... enjoyed so subscribed.
Can I ask Do you shoot in RAW.
Glad to have you as a subscriber Paul. Yes I shoot in RAW
Another thing I notices my live view exposure is 1 or 1/2 stop heigher than view finder ... I mean I have diffrent exposure in view finder
If I’m shooting in aperture priority and auto iso, what will the exposure compensation change? ISO or Shutter?
Great question. Might depend on the camera. I think it will change ISO - unless it's hit the maximum ISO limit (overexposing) then it will go to slower shutter speed. Depends on if you have set a maximum ISO - and a minimum shutter speed.
Your thumbnail....damn you stole my pic....😁
I'm photographing in Manual Mode (doing AV+TV myself) with Auto ISO and still sometimes use exposure compensation. Does this make sense? Would appreciate an answer!
Makes good sense, and depending on your camera, Program mode is another option. Some cameras have the option of an auto-bracket mode, where it takes three photographs with one push of the shutter release, and you can set it for "normal exposure, + 1/3,2/3 or 1 stop, or -1/3 ,2/3/,1 stop (any of these) or say all + 1 by 1/3 of a stop, ot - 1 by 1/3 of a stop. "Get it on the film(or sensor)!" and you can adjust it in post.
Yes that makes sense. In manual with auto ISO the exposure compensation should change the ISO
I see a lot of photos on Facebook with dark backgrounds like the thumbnail. How do you get them ?
Flash and appature
Make sure the subject is really well lit without light spilling on the background. Then expose correctly for the subject. This will have the effect of reducing the exposure of the background.
You can do this by either reducing the shutter speed (fast shutter speed) or reducing the aperture (smaller aperture, increase f value).
You see my face in my profile?
That was taken in daylight.
I used a powerful flashlight aimed almost directly at my face and I exposed for my face.
Perfect!
No flash Mark.
You just need to create a situation where the subject is in strong light but the background is shaded. If you underexpose more as well, it will create this effect.
Thanks paul!
What is the fastest way to change ISO on Canon cameras? No wheel for ISO.
joal va hi I would assign the set button to adjust iso. Hold down button and roll front top dial to change
You can always use the exposure adjustment wheel on either the front grip of the camera or the rear dial.
I just do it with the ISO button but maybe you can assign a 'quick button' option.
@@craigmorris8322 Thanks!
@@Walkercolt1 Thanks!
this video seems over exposed ...