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Sealing Concrete + Filling Relief Cuts
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2020
- Unfortunately temperatures didn't allow for us to seal the concrete last fall when it was poured. Time to get it done!
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I’ve been watching your build from the beginning and you have given me so many tips from concrete to framing and the confidence to take on a job I would have otherwise have paid double for someone else to come do..... THANK YOU. ....
Thank you so much for your comment! Thrilled that it inspired you to tackle some more projects. We are excited to continue to share the rest of this build.
Wish I had done this before I painted my front and back patio. Those darn seams collect pine needles like there's no tomorrow. Thanks for showing the tape technique. Lookin forward to see more of your videos!!
Yes, hopefully this helps with that issue! Thanks for watching!
I am so glad I found you, I have always been very impressionable and you have impressed me :)
I'm retired and very sick nowadays and these videos have helped me and brought some joy for me, especially as I've always been interested in any kind of construction.
I didn't stay at the beginning however, but I hope to catch up on that later. I'll follow you from now on and thank you very much for sharing your expertise with us.
The only problem I have is stopping for a beak: lol
Best regards from London UK :)
Stay safe please.
Thanks for watching, and for your comments. We really appreciate it and hope that we can continue to bring you joy with this.
I sealed my expansion joints in my driveway with the loctite caulk. Glad i did it. Helped keep the eventual cracks from movement from taking in water and allowing water to seep under the slabsHad to use my fingertips to smooth it out. Couldn't wear glove to the size of the crack, it wore my finger nails down to paper thin. Live and learn. I don't seal concrete here - too much freeze and thaw and high altitude sun. Just bakes off within a year.
You make me feel like I don't work enough! Amazing!
Thanks for your input and following along!
1/8" backer rod installed with a rod wheel gets it about 3/8" below the surface then caulking is much faster. Densifier sealer is good. You can still apply a topical acrylic sealer over it to protect the surface. Penetrating sealers don't really give you any stain/spill protection.
Thanks for the tips. Appreciate it.
Pressure washing....So satisfying indeed! Love a good clean edge when that tape is peeled off 👌 😌
It really is!
Perfect timing. I am just getting ready to pour a patio on my channel, Joel On Grid. I wondered if those cheap sprayers work for sealer, seems like the real deal. I have filled deeper cracks with some fine sand and foam piping before with good results. It takes patience to let the compound settle into deep cracks, but don't fill them too high with sand or foam, you want the compound to be able to get a grip on the edges so as to not pull out over time. PS- My knees are killing me watching you kneel on the boomed concrete.
The concrete looks great, and I'm looking forward to seeing you seal the garage!
You and me both!
Great insight into dealing and filling the concrete gaps. Very professional.
Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Great tip on the caulking and how you did it. I'll have to try that when I pour my new patio.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Just did my garage exact same way you did. Might want to start using kneepads while your young. I'm paying for now in my older years. Great videos and excellent craftsmanship. Hard to find anymore. Keep up the good work
Thanks!
I used poly sand that’s meant for pavers to fill the cut lines. Works great, and can flex with temperature changes. Broom it in then spray with water to set it
Thanks for the input!
It was oddly satisfying to watch the tape removal and see the perfectly filled lines so even and neat. Blessings.
Sure is! Thanks for watching!
The only tips that I am following are from you, Paul! Using silicone on concrete junctions is a great idea... I have a concrete entrance with a few junctions and during the time it accommodates a lot of dust, and that tip with silicone is a great idea, the only mistake a had done was... I replaced a small rail gate entrance to my hose and had a huge rust stain on concrete and I cleaned it with vinegar... Now you can see the difference where I cleaned or where I used the vinegar. I hope with time we can not see the white spot on concrete. It was my fault!😒 The silicone idea is an excellent idea, Paul! Thank you so much! 😉
Hey thanks! Glad you're finding this helpful.
Home Depot sells an attachment with that seals the cut tip of a caulk tube that works really well for keeping your caulk tube usable if you only use part of a tube.
The tip of that attachment has a caulk line skimmer that removes excess caulk, and it works better than a finger because you don't have to clean it like your fingers. It will hold an entire line of excess caulk that is scraped off. You do have to clean it but it is easy to clean because it is plastic.
For this job, your fingers are probably better because you are forcing the caulk into the joint. Don't use sand because it will not flex with your joints once it hardens.
Thanks for your input... might have to check that attachment out!
From experience, tape all joints before applying. I go as far as adding cardboard to the taped edges to prevent unintended drips from landing onto the surface. There is a 3" puddle at the end of a driveway at work, because I tripped and dropped the caulk gun and it leaked out before I could get up and get it. Its been there some 10 years now.
Paving sand is a good option - fill and brush to level, then wet. There is a compound that binds and leaves a fairly solid water proof fill. Quick and easy, not sure it would stand up to subsequent power washing.
Thanks for the input!
Nice and tidy, looks great man.
Thanks 👍
Sand works great as a base, on our jobs we typically put sand on the joint fill to blend it back in with the concrete. The backer rod you were referring to wouldn't be useful in your situation. Over the years we've found Sika Flex to work best, tubes are available at Home Depot. We get ours from a distributor in 3 gallon buckets.
Great job I'm watching all your videos. I live in Lucas County. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Go to Stetson’s in DSM. They sell foam backer rod in various diameters. They’ll have a backer rod for the saw cut control joints. You can buy it by the foot or whole spoils.
Thanks for the info!
I'm loving those health and safety knee pad u are using they look comfortable bud 😁 lol I'm loving vids keep them coming please sir 😁👍
Haha... thanks for watching!
I’m loving that hot stud of a man!
Amazing job
Thanks!
Good idea with the tape! How is that filler holding up? I'm thinking about doing that around my pool and patio.
Thx for sharing ..that was a great tip 👍🏻🇦🇺🤩
No problem 👍
what I found is using a plastic spoon works to smooth out joints works good and keeps finger clean
Nice tip! Thanks!
Do do a great job and truly care about the end product. In Iowa as well!
Thanks! Always fun to see fellow Iowans following along!
Ive seen sand used, Where my swimming pool bull nose meets the surrounding deck they filled the crack with fine sand and then use a mastic 2 part seam compound and filled over the sand to flush of the deck.
Thanks for sharing!
Caulking the cracks..ingenious
Thanks!
If you fill the cracks with sand first, and than silicone, won't it come out easily when you go over them with a broom? I think you found the best method here.
Thanks for your input!
I think that's how the pros do it....that's how I would do it . A little bit of extra work, but you get a nice clean look.
Thanks 👍
Ouch! My knees hurt watching you kneeling on that concrete!
Haha... totally!
I wouldn't have done those cracks any other way. I've used Butyl rubber caulk instead and it looks like the difference is the stuff you used flows much easier. I have had to do expansion joints in brick exteriors and precast exteriors walls with the butyl rubber and we used these fancy power caulk guns that had these special tips with different profiles for striking off the joint leaving a smooth uniform surface to the butyl rubber compound. You still need to tape off any surface that's porous as the stuff will adhere to it and be impossible to remove later.
Thanks for the input!
Where did you find the bucket of sealer?
your way is perfect, stick with it.
Thanks!
could you put the filler in first and put a sand/cement blend on top, wait till it dries and sweep off the excess? You might almost disguise the cracks completely
I'm not sure if that would work, have you tried that?
@@MrPostFrame i tried it with a sandstone block I cracked once and the builder told me to try the white wood glue and sprinkle sand over it. It sort of worked might have more luck matching colour with cement powder but I would experiment first in an inconspicuous spot first
GREAT JOB‼️ I see more guys ruin a beautiful concrete job with silicone all over the place‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
Our HOA didn’t want to pay for a new driveway so they had the crew put grey colored epoxy in the cracks and amazingly it has held up for 5 years now.
Awesome!
That’s the way I do it, don’t think I would use sand,baker rod or paper is best I have used.
Thanks!
Every time I use duck tape it seems to leave a little residue behind, so I use some sort of painters tape. Do you not have that same issue?
I know what you mean. On the concrete I don’t have that problem though.
just for curiosity .. what voltage level do you use in usa ? here in uk we use 240 volt even though in france they use 120 volt & i think the rest of europe use 120 volt too
We use 120 in USA
What is that smoking off to the left at 2:39? I thought burn pile but then I thought, surely not so close to the house?
Just overspray from the pressure washer
How deep did you cut your relief cuts in your concrete floor with the radiant floor heat.
1”
Can you put two coats of the sealer for better results? Also, will it repel oil and gas?
You only need one coat. It will repel oil/gas on a smooth surface, probably not as well on the porch.
@@MrPostFrame How often do you seal it?
Walking on the sealant while its wet doesn't mess it up? Only 1 coat?
Just makes your shoes sticky. Lol. I’ve never noticed a difference when using a penetrating sealer. If you are using a surface sealer it would matter though.
Maybe stain the inside floor, I've seen a few floors that look pretty dang spiffy in person and I've seen videos of amazing floors on the web.
Stained concrete can be so amazing for sure! We weren't planning on it to save cost and figure by the time there are rugs and furniture a large portion will be covered anyway.
Travis Watson
Another "Sail Life" fan! Mads is pretty dang spiffy, himself!
For the garage, instead of sealing, I think I'd epoxy the floor.
We'd love to do that. For now because of cost/time we are just sealing. The epoxy is definitely a fantastic option.
Are the posts bolted to the bases?
There are 4 smaller lags in each. I will eventually put bolts in the bigger holes.
Is that pretty common in your area, to seal the exterior concrete? I don't know anything about it, what's the purpose?
Water that's on top of concrete will sink in over time. So when it freezes, it will crack the concrete. If you seal it after it has hardened, no water will get in.
Yes, and for the interior the sealer is going to help prevent staining from our kid's dropping food, etc.
Sand, yep.. that's what the pro's do,
You don't want the caulk touching the bottom of the joint, want it to be a bridge.
i sure enjoy the music
I swore it sounded like the Doobie Brothers
Thanks! It's a great site we found that has a lot of options.
First comment again! :-)
Nope LOL! ;)
LOL! I see it now. You had me by one minute! Nice!
Haha that's great!
First?
No haha
Wear kneepads, you'll be thankful later.
Haha that might be our number one recommendation over the last couple of years.
@@MrPostFrame, wish I did sooner.