Bloody legend, the diff lock not activating is one of the problems on my list. I’ve seen a past video on this, but it’s nice to see the even further detail behind the problem!
Thanks 👍 One issue with the diff lock not working right, is the box has been worked on and the grub screw holding the detent spring and ball in has been over tightened and not allowing the mechanism to work - the rest is seized shifters and incorrect adjustment
Hi, I would like to make a one time donation but cannot find how to do it. I saw a video on the perkins diesel injector pump years back that saved my but. It was a tiny little valve that should rattle. Mine was stuck just like yours. I just need a paypal address. Thanks, David @BritannicaRestorations
Bought my S3 near 50 years ago new.....one of the fist things I did was fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge.....a good oil smiths gauge. Would never be without it....still have the oil pressure warning light. Great to see you back on youtube Sir. Nick from the UK.
I started my driving life in a 2A diesel, oddly that had a green oil light, if it came on, top up the oil..... If it came on under braking it needed more oil shortly....!!
Mike, I fitted a "Smith's" 0-80 psi gauge to my D1 but also fitted an audible alarm on both the oil pressure and coolant overflow tank level. An experienced friend of mine, (don't ask how he knew), advised me to have as much monitoring, particularly coolant level, as could be had. I can only agree with what you said about the OEM oil pressure switches, junk!
I had the same problem on a Rover V8 engine. When hot the light would pulse, almost in sequence with the engine RPM. I pulled the engine out and rebuilt it, new shells, rings, cam, rockers, lifters (they were so bad you could stand an egg in the worn depression) plus a whole lot of parts. Started it up, when hot same problem! Changed switch all fixed. OK the engine was worn but it ran perfectly. Cams and lifters always wear on V8's if the oil change interval has been neglected.
Those early V8s were notorious for poor cams = I have seen them almost round, and they still ran OK! (until you fitted new parts), and they went like a rocket!
200tdi - when I start the engine, the light stays maybe 1-2 seconds longer. Changed the sender, changed the o-rings on the vacuum pump, checked all the easily changed o-rings and hoses. I will replace the oil pump (manual says that there's a spring in the pump that sometimes needs replacement and this can be one of the symptoms). If no change, will probably switch to 15W40, currently running 10w40.
@@BritannicaRestorationsthanks! I fixed up a 200Tdi recently (Injection issues; pump was totally destroyed...) and the owner insisted on 10W40. It is summer and the thing has 400.000km on the clock. I managed to persuade him to 15W40, but I will immediately send him a link to this comment to back up my opinion!
My 300 Tdi Defender developed a flickering oil light once it was hot, which eventually stayed on the longer it ran. Let the engine get cold and all was fine until it got hot again. I borrowed a ‘test’ gauge, which showed the oil pressure was good, even with the light on constantly. It turned out to be the wiring from the pressure switch shorting to the block. Giving the loom a ‘waggle’ would cure the fault for a few months. I’ve not had the problem since upgrading my alternator to 100A and running a higher current capacity wire from the alternator to the starter. Obviously fettling this wire has moved the loom away from the block and I have not had the problem since 😊
@@BritannicaRestorationsthose minor things can be disastrous... If you have an electric oil pressure gauge, it will show full pressure when the wire to the sending unit breaks, for example! At least the common ones made by VDO act like that. Exactly the opposite behaviour as a temperature gauge. It should be the other way round! Greetings from Germany!
I had to replace the sender for this very reason. Another thing is do not replace your oil pressure light with an LED. Use the stock in Canden bulb otherwise you might find it going on at in opportune times like when you’re idling. I’m getting ready to put in an oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge using a sandwich adapter
@@BritannicaRestorations most welcome. The adapter I used you can search for this. lowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 3/4-16 Thread - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - Includes O-Ring & Port Plugs I have the senders installed and it doesn’t leak (yet) I just have to wire them up.
@@BritannicaRestorationsthere are also fuel tank reserve switches which need incandescent bulbs. They work with an NTC element (a resistor which decreases its resistance when it gets warm). It will get hot when it isn't covered by fuel and then the reserve light in the dash lights up. That doesn't work without the current draw of a proper bulb... You will never ever figure that out if you don't know that...
I think you briefly covered the relationship between pump flow vs back pressure (size of orifice & viscosity/temperature etc) before. 200 & 300 Tdi’s imho do often exhibit low oil pressure when hot but the margin difference between oil pressure failure & normal operating oil pressure under certain conditions is often quite marginal making failure quite difficult to detect. My oil pressure is reasonable at approx 45-50 psi when cold/cool with 10W40 Oil and stays above 30 when-engine running above approx 2000RPM but does drop to 10 psi or less when idling at normal operating temperature causing my oil light to flicker (and make MOT tester very nervous). I have installed an oil pressure gauge so I know it is generally ok when driving but still find the pressure at idle alarmingly low and know the TDI cam bearing shuffle can cause catastrophic engine damage. Should we all use 15W40 or even 20W50 oil to compensate for engine wear and boost the oil pressure as mileage increases on our 25+ year old vehicles but accept increased cold startup wear as a direct consequence in cold winters With my first cars which were BMC low oil pressure was indication of looming engine failure or upcoming £££ rebuild, normally time put in thicker oil and to sell on! Datsuns, Renaults & Toyotas of same era were not much better, maybe a bit more oil tight but harder to work on.
15w40 is the recommended oil - I am just working on part 2 of this video now - should be up in an hour, but I try to cover what you are concerned about Tdi oil pressure at normal operating temperatures and speeds are: 1.7-3.8 bars (25.0-55.0 psi)
got a redarc 3 in one gauge on my td5 dose boost egt's and oil pressure on a cold start i get about 40-50 psi and once it is at running temp it sits around 22psi my dads 300tdi has blown a hose of twice now on real cold mornings and dumped all the oil the 2nd time almost seized the motor
Love these videos. It’s like listening to an interesting knowledgeable neighbor.
Glad you like them!
Bloody legend, the diff lock not activating is one of the problems on my list. I’ve seen a past video on this, but it’s nice to see the even further detail behind the problem!
Thanks 👍 One issue with the diff lock not working right, is the box has been worked on and the grub screw holding the detent spring and ball in has been over tightened and not allowing the mechanism to work - the rest is seized shifters and incorrect adjustment
@@BritannicaRestorations the box was overhauled by the previous owner. I’ll have a look for seized shifters and adjustments first. Thank you!
The grub screw is tricky to gain access - it should be flush with the housing
Hi,
I would like to make a one time donation but cannot find how to do it.
I saw a video on the perkins diesel injector pump years back that saved my but. It was a tiny little valve that should rattle. Mine was stuck just like yours. I just need a paypal address.
Thanks, David
@BritannicaRestorations
Bought my S3 near 50 years ago new.....one of the fist things I did was fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge.....a good oil smiths gauge.
Would never be without it....still have the oil pressure warning light.
Great to see you back on youtube Sir.
Nick from the UK.
Great point!
I don't have a Land Rover (but I do love them). And I love restoring cars. But I mostly watch your videos for the accent that reminds me of home. lol
Thanks!
I started my driving life in a 2A diesel, oddly that had a green oil light, if it came on, top up the oil..... If it came on under braking it needed more oil shortly....!!
This takes me back to my younger days I fitted the same setup to my Vauxhall viva 😊
Mike, I fitted a "Smith's" 0-80 psi gauge to my D1 but also fitted an audible alarm on both the oil pressure and coolant overflow tank level. An experienced friend of mine, (don't ask how he knew), advised me to have as much monitoring, particularly coolant level, as could be had. I can only agree with what you said about the OEM oil pressure switches, junk!
I had the same problem on a Rover V8 engine. When hot the light would pulse, almost in sequence with the engine RPM. I pulled the engine out and rebuilt it, new shells, rings, cam, rockers, lifters (they were so bad you could stand an egg in the worn depression) plus a whole lot of parts. Started it up, when hot same problem! Changed switch all fixed. OK the engine was worn but it ran perfectly. Cams and lifters always wear on V8's if the oil change interval has been neglected.
Those early V8s were notorious for poor cams = I have seen them almost round, and they still ran OK! (until you fitted new parts), and they went like a rocket!
You puts the lighty on.
200tdi - when I start the engine, the light stays maybe 1-2 seconds longer. Changed the sender, changed the o-rings on the vacuum pump, checked all the easily changed o-rings and hoses.
I will replace the oil pump (manual says that there's a spring in the pump that sometimes needs replacement and this can be one of the symptoms). If no change, will probably switch to 15W40, currently running 10w40.
15W40is recommended
@@BritannicaRestorationsthanks! I fixed up a 200Tdi recently (Injection issues; pump was totally destroyed...) and the owner insisted on 10W40. It is summer and the thing has 400.000km on the clock. I managed to persuade him to 15W40, but I will immediately send him a link to this comment to back up my opinion!
My 300 Tdi Defender developed a flickering oil light once it was hot, which eventually stayed on the longer it ran. Let the engine get cold and all was fine until it got hot again. I borrowed a ‘test’ gauge, which showed the oil pressure was good, even with the light on constantly. It turned out to be the wiring from the pressure switch shorting to the block. Giving the loom a ‘waggle’ would cure the fault for a few months. I’ve not had the problem since upgrading my alternator to 100A and running a higher current capacity wire from the alternator to the starter. Obviously fettling this wire has moved the loom away from the block and I have not had the problem since 😊
Indeed, it pays to check the simple things first!
@@BritannicaRestorationsthose minor things can be disastrous... If you have an electric oil pressure gauge, it will show full pressure when the wire to the sending unit breaks, for example! At least the common ones made by VDO act like that. Exactly the opposite behaviour as a temperature gauge. It should be the other way round!
Greetings from Germany!
You would think!
I had to replace the sender for this very reason. Another thing is do not replace your oil pressure light with an LED. Use the stock in Canden bulb otherwise you might find it going on at in opportune times like when you’re idling.
I’m getting ready to put in an oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge using a sandwich adapter
Thanks for the info!
@@BritannicaRestorations most welcome. The adapter I used you can search for this.
lowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 3/4-16 Thread - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - Includes O-Ring & Port Plugs
I have the senders installed and it doesn’t leak (yet) I just have to wire them up.
@@BritannicaRestorationsthere are also fuel tank reserve switches which need incandescent bulbs. They work with an NTC element (a resistor which decreases its resistance when it gets warm). It will get hot when it isn't covered by fuel and then the reserve light in the dash lights up. That doesn't work without the current draw of a proper bulb... You will never ever figure that out if you don't know that...
I have been running the similar setup on my 200TDi, mine is an electrical gauge rather than hydraulic.....
I think the modern electric senders are a lot better than the old original type which were not very accurate
Just take the bulb out the dash. It'll be reet. Thanks Mike, interesting stuff.
You bet!
I think you briefly covered the relationship between pump flow vs back pressure (size of orifice & viscosity/temperature etc) before. 200 & 300 Tdi’s imho do often exhibit low oil pressure when hot but the margin difference between oil pressure failure & normal operating oil pressure under certain conditions is often quite marginal making failure quite difficult to detect.
My oil pressure is reasonable at approx 45-50 psi when cold/cool with 10W40 Oil and stays above 30 when-engine running above approx 2000RPM but does drop to 10 psi or less when idling at normal operating temperature causing my oil light to flicker (and make MOT tester very nervous). I have installed an oil pressure gauge so I know it is generally ok when driving but still find the pressure at idle alarmingly low and know the TDI cam bearing shuffle can cause catastrophic engine damage.
Should we all use 15W40 or even 20W50 oil to compensate for engine wear and boost the oil pressure as mileage increases on our 25+ year old vehicles but accept increased cold startup wear as a direct consequence in cold winters
With my first cars which were BMC low oil pressure was indication of looming engine failure or upcoming £££ rebuild, normally time put in thicker oil and to sell on! Datsuns, Renaults & Toyotas of same era were not much better, maybe a bit more oil tight but harder to work on.
15w40 is the recommended oil - I am just working on part 2 of this video now - should be up in an hour, but I try to cover what you are concerned about
Tdi oil pressure at normal operating temperatures and speeds are: 1.7-3.8 bars (25.0-55.0 psi)
Did you get the series 1 sold?
Not yet but it will be on Facebook soon
It's always the sender, until it throws a rod.....
Bhaaaa😂😂😂😂
Good one Mike. Will you cover nylon capillary hose VS copper in one of the next videos?
You never see the old copper stuff now - not easy to get hold of
@@BritannicaRestorations I know, I tor a nylon one greenlaning, it was a fluke I noticed the worry-meter needle drop!
Copper one comes with the Durite gauge. I use nylon has it gives a ‘real time’ reading. The copper has a very big delay even when hot.
got a redarc 3 in one gauge on my td5 dose boost egt's and oil pressure on a cold start i get about 40-50 psi and once it is at running temp it sits around 22psi my dads 300tdi has blown a hose of twice now on real cold mornings and dumped all the oil the 2nd time almost seized the motor