Loving the videos of the 200 TDI engine build, I learn so much better to watch the work being done, in conjunction with using the shop manual. I had to get a rebuilt 200 TDI long block for my 92 Defender, the rebuilt head I had installed before dropped the valve into the piston because the valve spring cracked and all hell broke loose. So far so good on my current engine build.
It'll be good to see how this 200 Tdi runs after you put it into the vehicle, certainly looking good. I like the drill press idea for fitting the valve collets I've never thought of that and I've had a good sized drill press since 1975, opportunity missed.
Watched these videos is a like re-run of my recent 200tdi rebuild, and why I watch them I really don't know... the Horror! 😂 For a start my 'Head went into the machine shop with two seized glowplugs (I tried I really did) it came back sans the glow plugs, but with two new cracks in the head between those glow plug ports and the injector ports. Now, will that be an issue? Maybe, but the head had to go on while I try and source a good spare just in case and it runs well- so far. In theory, a crack between glow plug & injector shouldn't give palpitations in the same way one propagating to the valves would, but still... (and no I wouldn't use that shop again, I could have cracked the head with Landrover tool #1 myself for nothing!) I also discovered the head had been buggered with before in the dim and distant past (I put 300 thou on it) and none of the valve springs had seat washers. Surprisingly easy to miss that fact, as it's actually difficult to see the difference between a washer sitting in there and no washer, they're a very close fit and skinny. Fortunately no (apparent) ally damage by the springs, but I did wonder how much the mill thickness of washer would have affected the spring compression and valve operation - probably bugger all. I also had a grin with the dummied up spring/collet compressor - yup did that! Finally, the eternal 200 v 300 argument... well, it boils down to my old 200 never missing a beat (even though it turned out to be an absolute mess in there) how in the name of the wee man it was still running I"ll never know, and neither did anyone else who saw the mess of it when I had torn it down. Yeah, the 200 is agricultural compared to the 300 - but then I never had to keep one eye on the temperature to catch a head gasket/ P gasket failure, or wonder why it chewed through serpentine belts because of the dodgy, badly aligned, original factory pulley (the replacements had a flange on the lip to stop the belt 'walking') Despite every abuse, a 200tdi will fire up for you every time - it might be barely able to pull the skin off your porridge - but it will always keep pulling. Better the devil you know, not because it's better, but just because it's trusty.
Thank you for a detailed reply! Just fitted the 200 today and time wise, the 300 is easily a hands down better engine to fit and finish But I do like some features of the 200 such as an oil pump in the sump where it should be Timing belt is simple - BUT involves the cooling system being accessed - not good Starter - terrible access Exhaust = Defender 200Tdi - TERRIBLE! Front pipe has the shittiest bracket I have ever seen near the engine mount - lot of time wasted there on fiddly bolts - miss this out and the front pipe is forever falling off resulting in a blowing exhaust = 3 bolt flange - much better Vac pump good! Power steering - not good on a LHD for access Exhaust again - lot of warping manifolds and flanges - very thin Access to bell housing bolts not so good Crank key surface to pulley = tiny to drive A/C, PS, water pump/alternator All the power driven by a 1/4 inch of a key! Ladder frame to strengthen the block! Good idea, but a nightmare to remove piston - the rear adaptor plate has bolts that attach to this ladder frame = you need to remove the full engine or gearbox to gain access! This is not a good idea Shitty aluminium head - 300 and 200 should have had a cast iron head - dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates - stretch bolts to counteract the problem - yeah that worked out well The Isuzu 4BD1T was bulletproof - cast head and block, timing gears, integral power steering pump, and 3.9 4 cylinder - massive 12 inch clutch - would do millions of Km's Late 1980s - fitted to Australian Defenders All Land Rover engines since 1958 were a variation on a theme - low budget motors I guess I will find more
Sorry to be pedantic Mike but Loctite 262 isn’t compatible with aluminium. You need to use an activator if assembling into ‘inactive’ metals for proper curing. Long time subscriber and supporter btw, love your work 🙂
@@BritannicaRestorations I thought they were broadly similar, the big differences being the 200 needing the water pump off for timing work, the oil and vacuum pumps and the thermostat housing. I found the 300 harder to bleed the coolant and the 200 doesn’t need oil pump priming. I thought you might like the 200 for its tougher head and more reliable vacuum pump.
With all due respect Mike pulling those studs out with a magnet just is a stupid idea, the surface area wouldn't allow a magnet to pull it out. He must have used his teeth.
Bravo to Claude for the excellent machine work. 👏
It was not done for free! But you pay a bit for that service
Excellent job on the head and flywheel. And also the thermostat housing etc. All looking really good Mike.
Thanks 👍
Loving the videos of the 200 TDI engine build, I learn so much better to watch the work being done, in conjunction with using the shop manual. I had to get a rebuilt 200 TDI long block for my 92 Defender, the rebuilt head I had installed before dropped the valve into the piston because the valve spring cracked and all hell broke loose. So far so good on my current engine build.
I would rather use good old valve springs than shitty Chinese new ones - they seem to be brittle
It'll be good to see how this 200 Tdi runs after you put it into the vehicle, certainly looking good. I like the drill press idea for fitting the valve collets I've never thought of that and I've had a good sized drill press since 1975, opportunity missed.
You and me both!
It looks better than factory fresh
The wet bead blaster changed a lot in rebuild presentation!
😊
Watched these videos is a like re-run of my recent 200tdi rebuild, and why I watch them I really don't know... the Horror! 😂
For a start my 'Head went into the machine shop with two seized glowplugs (I tried I really did) it came back sans the glow plugs, but with two new cracks in the head between those glow plug ports and the injector ports.
Now, will that be an issue? Maybe, but the head had to go on while I try and source a good spare just in case and it runs well- so far.
In theory, a crack between glow plug & injector shouldn't give palpitations in the same way one propagating to the valves would, but still...
(and no I wouldn't use that shop again, I could have cracked the head with Landrover tool #1 myself for nothing!)
I also discovered the head had been buggered with before in the dim and distant past (I put 300 thou on it) and none of the valve springs had seat washers.
Surprisingly easy to miss that fact, as it's actually difficult to see the difference between a washer sitting in there and no washer, they're a very close fit and skinny.
Fortunately no (apparent) ally damage by the springs, but I did wonder how much the mill thickness of washer would have affected the spring compression and valve operation - probably bugger all.
I also had a grin with the dummied up spring/collet compressor - yup did that!
Finally, the eternal 200 v 300 argument...
well, it boils down to my old 200 never missing a beat (even though it turned out to be an absolute mess in there) how in the name of the wee man it was still running I"ll never know, and neither did anyone else who saw the mess of it when I had torn it down.
Yeah, the 200 is agricultural compared to the 300 - but then I never had to keep one eye on the temperature to catch a head gasket/ P gasket failure, or wonder why it chewed through serpentine belts because of the dodgy, badly aligned, original factory pulley (the replacements had a flange on the lip to stop the belt 'walking')
Despite every abuse, a 200tdi will fire up for you every time - it might be barely able to pull the skin off your porridge - but it will always keep pulling.
Better the devil you know, not because it's better, but just because it's trusty.
Thank you for a detailed reply!
Just fitted the 200 today and time wise, the 300 is easily a hands down better engine to fit and finish
But I do like some features of the 200 such as an oil pump in the sump where it should be
Timing belt is simple - BUT involves the cooling system being accessed - not good
Starter - terrible access
Exhaust = Defender 200Tdi - TERRIBLE! Front pipe has the shittiest bracket I have ever seen near the engine mount - lot of time wasted there on fiddly bolts - miss this out and the front pipe is forever falling off resulting in a blowing exhaust = 3 bolt flange - much better
Vac pump good!
Power steering - not good on a LHD for access
Exhaust again - lot of warping manifolds and flanges - very thin
Access to bell housing bolts not so good
Crank key surface to pulley = tiny to drive A/C, PS, water pump/alternator
All the power driven by a 1/4 inch of a key!
Ladder frame to strengthen the block! Good idea, but a nightmare to remove piston - the rear adaptor plate has bolts that attach to this ladder frame = you need to remove the full engine or gearbox to gain access!
This is not a good idea
Shitty aluminium head - 300 and 200 should have had a cast iron head - dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates - stretch bolts to counteract the problem - yeah that worked out well
The Isuzu 4BD1T was bulletproof - cast head and block, timing gears, integral power steering pump, and 3.9 4 cylinder - massive 12 inch clutch - would do millions of Km's
Late 1980s - fitted to Australian Defenders
All Land Rover engines since 1958 were a variation on a theme - low budget motors
I guess I will find more
Sorry to be pedantic Mike but Loctite 262 isn’t compatible with aluminium. You need to use an activator if assembling into ‘inactive’ metals for proper curing.
Long time subscriber and supporter btw, love your work 🙂
Seems to work for me
Wasnt Claude Greengrass was it. 😂
Lovely bit of cling film, should save that for your cheese and pickle sandwiches, it's expensive!
Next time!
Apart from sourcing parts, which do you think is better - 200 or 300? Each seems to have its pros and cons.
300Tdi by a long shot! 200Tdi are difficult to work on and get parts for
@@BritannicaRestorations I thought they were broadly similar, the big differences being the 200 needing the water pump off for timing work, the oil and vacuum pumps and the thermostat housing. I found the 300 harder to bleed the coolant and the 200 doesn’t need oil pump priming. I thought you might like the 200 for its tougher head and more reliable vacuum pump.
With all due respect Mike pulling those studs out with a magnet just is a stupid idea, the surface area wouldn't allow a magnet to pull it out.
He must have used his teeth.
Maybe that's why he whistles so much...