Hey Tom! I'd been having some trouble with my banjo, with no Luthiers within any reasonable distance from me. This video helped me so much and gave me the confidence to adjust my banjo on my own. Turns out the head was extremely loose, the tailpiece was barely attached, the truss rod was all jiggered and the bridge was in the wrong place. My banjo sounds like a completely different instrument now! What I really appreciated about your video was how you provided feedback on how to figure out what's too much, too little, and just right. Thanks!
Tom Nechville, I have to greatly thank you for this video! I had already taken care of nine out of the ten steps, but I had no idea of the tenth step. I just reset the bridge using harmonics on the nineteenth fret and it's like getting a whole new banjo! The tone came out unbelievably. I am very happy with the "new" sound of my knock-around banjo that I have with me in the hospital and am excited to get home and apply this technique to my other nine banjos.
Great information!...I've been playing banjo for 40 years and have tried and heard of every set up technique...I have adjusted the tailpiece for hours at a time, and eventually go tone deaf lol!...but I like your recommendation for a presto tailpiece..the 2 pennies at the 12th fret...and intenation at the 19th fret...those are 3 things I'm gonna try...thanks!
Using a drum dial gauge: the gauge must first be calibrated to zero by being placed completely vertical on a rock hard, completely flat, level surface (thick glass). Then adjust dial to zero. Handle dial gingerly. Don't bump, lean or lay dial on it's side or will need to be re-zeroed. Position banjo rim similarly on hard, flat, level surface and check for lowest and highest values before making any adjustments. Don't drop the gauge onto head surface and similarly, don't pop the gauge up off of the surface. Start at lowest tension point, checking at at least 6 to 8 points, depending on head diameter, going around inside the rim (with spacing gauge installed), always in the same direction, raising or lowering values a little at a time. Repeat enough times until all positions measure usually about 88-91, depending on head manufacturers recommendation and sound you desire. May take time for head to settle/stabilize. May need to recheck gauge zero before finishing.
What about if your using a 5/8th bridge on a banjo thats set up OK, but the action is high at the 12th fret. Using a lower bridge spoils the tone, so would this mean you would need to shim the neck to alter the angle? Or have the heel recut?
Mine is an inexpensive China made one (but has good playability) with only one (length adjustable) coordinator rod. To set the desired neck angle to get the desiired string action, what should I do: put a shim on the joint area of neck-rim, or lowering the bridge height (by sanding down the foot of the bridge)?
Those 1 rod Aluminum pots can usually be adjusted for action. Try turning the turnbuckle on the rod and it should lower action. Or just cut down bridge. Call me when you are ready for a new or better banjo. Tom 612-275-6602.
I have a Flecktone banjo, I am confused as to where the neck should be positioned along the flux capacitor. Should I position it as low as it can go, or should I position it higher and lower to change the action?
Lower neck down into resonator slot to lower action. On the Flex-Tone, there also may be some adjustment as to the position of the flux piece itself. Normally you do not need to move it, but if you do move the flux up on the rim it lowers action too
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Hey Tom! I'd been having some trouble with my banjo, with no Luthiers within any reasonable distance from me. This video helped me so much and gave me the confidence to adjust my banjo on my own. Turns out the head was extremely loose, the tailpiece was barely attached, the truss rod was all jiggered and the bridge was in the wrong place. My banjo sounds like a completely different instrument now! What I really appreciated about your video was how you provided feedback on how to figure out what's too much, too little, and just right. Thanks!
hi tom. met u and ur sis at the tennesse banjo institute 90's- the alaska boys. working on my gibson mastertone. thanks for the info
Tom Nechville, I have to greatly thank you for this video! I had already taken care of nine out of the ten steps, but I had no idea of the tenth step. I just reset the bridge using harmonics on the nineteenth fret and it's like getting a whole new banjo! The tone came out unbelievably. I am very happy with the "new" sound of my knock-around banjo that I have with me in the hospital and am excited to get home and apply this technique to my other nine banjos.
Great information!...I've been playing banjo for 40 years and have tried and heard of every set up technique...I have adjusted the tailpiece for hours at a time, and eventually go tone deaf lol!...but I like your recommendation for a presto tailpiece..the 2 pennies at the 12th fret...and intenation at the 19th fret...those are 3 things I'm gonna try...thanks!
Great video. This is Banjo Set-up Master Class. Thank you.
Tom! This is gold, thank you so much man!!!
Great channel and great content Tom!
Hello, thanks for the advice and insight for setup. All the best to you! Cheers.
Thanks for setting up my Maple Galaxy Phantom at Wenatchee! Still playing like a frickin dream!
Very helpful video.
Thank you!
I'm not sure I've ever checked my drum so should probably do that :)
Very cool thank you.
Using a drum dial gauge: the gauge must first be calibrated to zero by being placed completely vertical on a rock hard, completely flat, level surface (thick glass). Then adjust dial to zero. Handle dial gingerly. Don't bump, lean or lay dial on it's side or will need to be re-zeroed. Position banjo rim similarly on hard, flat, level surface and check for lowest and highest values before making any adjustments. Don't drop the gauge onto head surface and similarly, don't pop the gauge up off of the surface. Start at lowest tension point, checking at at least 6 to 8 points, depending on head diameter, going around inside the rim (with spacing gauge installed), always in the same direction, raising or lowering values a little at a time. Repeat enough times until all positions measure usually about 88-91, depending on head manufacturers recommendation and sound you desire. May take time for head to settle/stabilize. May need to recheck gauge zero before finishing.
Tom could you post a price list for your creations ?
What about if your using a 5/8th bridge on a banjo thats set up OK, but the action is high at the 12th fret. Using a lower bridge spoils the tone, so would this mean you would need to shim the neck to alter the angle? Or have the heel recut?
Mine is an inexpensive China made one (but has good playability) with only one (length adjustable) coordinator rod. To set the desired neck angle to get the desiired string action, what should I do: put a shim on the joint area of neck-rim, or lowering the bridge height (by sanding down the foot of the bridge)?
Those 1 rod Aluminum pots can usually be adjusted for action. Try turning the turnbuckle on the rod and it should lower action. Or just cut down bridge. Call me when you are ready for a new or better banjo. Tom 612-275-6602.
@@nechvillebanjos thank you so much sir..
I have a Flecktone banjo, I am confused as to where the neck should be positioned along the flux capacitor. Should I position it as low as it can go, or should I position it higher and lower to change the action?
Lower neck down into resonator slot to lower action.
On the Flex-Tone, there also may be some adjustment as to the position of the flux piece itself. Normally you do not need to move it, but if you do move the flux up on the rim it lowers action too
@@nechvillebanjos Thanks! Beautiful instrument.
Is that 2 penny height off the fret board or the top of the fret cheers
The Fret.
@@nechvillebanjos What is a 2 penny height? 2mm?
a penny thickness is 1.5mm