Do you maybe have the needed settings to center the head again (X and Y). It is now off a little bit. I'm using the Tiny Machine 3D firmware with Ultimaker Cura as slicer. Once again thank you for the video.
Just done the conversion, and about to print the 1st test. It would REALLY be handy if you mentioned (or edited) the video so I did not need to take the drive OFF again to drill some holes! Anyway. Thank you for the info.
Hi. Glad your conversion went well and this video was useful. Sadly, editing or reposting the video will result in losing the views (and hence visibility as YT will bury it - previous experience)
Hi, great video and much appreciate it as I’ve just gotten mine and almost done with installing it, just need to drill the holes and make the bracket for the bl touch and the cage. @ScaleMeDown I am just a bit confused as how you got the height and correct positioning for the holes for the bl touch and how you’ve secured them? I’m also a bit confused as to how you made the side plate for the cage and also how you’ve secured in place?
Brill. Glad to be of some help. Firstly, the precise positioning of the BL touch; I just compared the old mounting bracket with the new, taking a measurement from a known datum (I measured down from the mounting holes to the bottom of the head block). Transferring this measurement up from the bottom of the newly fitted head block revealed the position of the holes for the BL touch . Securing; You can purchase tap and die sets (or just the individual taps) at your local hardware store to cut threads into a smooth hole. Google what size drill to use for a given size of tap. Take your time, keep the tap straight as you work, and use cutting fluid (I tapped the holes by hand - not in a drill). I chose an M3 tap so that I could fit M3 bolts into these holes to secure the BL Touch and side bracket. Bracket; This is nothing fancy ! I used a bit of steel I had lying around from a corner reinforcing plate, but you could use anything, a bit of scrap steel or aluminium or whatever. I cut the metal down to shape and size using a pair of tin snips. Not really necessary, but I tidied the edges and rounded the corners using a file. I then marked the holes and centre punched them before drilling. A bit of black spray paint and it looks like it has always been there. Hope this is helpful and all makes sense. Best of luck with your project.
Probably. For 3D printing RC aircraft thin wall printing is required where the extruder accuracy (and retraction settings in particular) is the most important. This was our fo at 3D printing a flying model; ruclips.net/video/Yard7-3Art0/видео.html
Many thanks for the tips. Except that part with drilling - I know my skills in this matter, so I decided to print PLA replacements of original and unusable parts. Done and working... :)
My E-stepper motor is turning the wrong way and switching the cables on the connector doesn't work. Do I need micro swiss firmware to change this or do I need to recompile Marlin to get it working?
Interesting. Switching the A and B loop round on the connector should work. I didn't find this problem, but you could try the Microswiss firmware - I would be interested to hear the outcome
For drilling the holes for the BL Touch sensor, did you just measure off the original bracket for location? Considering doing this mod on my CR10s pro v2.
Cannot find the souce code to change offsets on marlin for cr10 max. They offer examples for all printers exept the max anybody know how to do it with marlin?
I couldn't find them either (as it is not designed for the max). Without reflashing this code you will lose a small amount of print volume (I lost about 15mm in the y direction)
@@etahgnimusnoc Hi, I made one. The cable is sold as "servo wire" and the fittings for the ends are also model aircraft products called "JST-XH" balance plugs and sockets.
Do you maybe have the needed settings to center the head again (X and Y).
It is now off a little bit.
I'm using the Tiny Machine 3D firmware with Ultimaker Cura as slicer.
Once again thank you for the video.
I didn't bother re-centering the x and y coordinates for the head. I know you can re-flash to maximise the print area but I never bothered. 😄
Just done the conversion, and about to print the 1st test.
It would REALLY be handy if you mentioned (or edited) the video so I did not need to take the drive OFF again to drill some holes!
Anyway. Thank you for the info.
Hi. Glad your conversion went well and this video was useful. Sadly, editing or reposting the video will result in losing the views (and hence visibility as YT will bury it - previous experience)
@@ScaleMeDown You could add an info card withing YT studio for that moment.
Hi, great video and much appreciate it as I’ve just gotten mine and almost done with installing it, just need to drill the holes and make the bracket for the bl touch and the cage.
@ScaleMeDown I am just a bit confused as how you got the height and correct positioning for the holes for the bl touch and how you’ve secured them? I’m also a bit confused as to how you made the side plate for the cage and also how you’ve secured in place?
Hope you get this comment as I’m in desperate need of help to get it going
Brill. Glad to be of some help.
Firstly, the precise positioning of the BL touch; I just compared the old mounting bracket with the new, taking a measurement from a known datum (I measured down from the mounting holes to the bottom of the head block). Transferring this measurement up from the bottom of the newly fitted head block revealed the position of the holes for the BL touch .
Securing; You can purchase tap and die sets (or just the individual taps) at your local hardware store to cut threads into a smooth hole. Google what size drill to use for a given size of tap. Take your time, keep the tap straight as you work, and use cutting fluid (I tapped the holes by hand - not in a drill). I chose an M3 tap so that I could fit M3 bolts into these holes to secure the BL Touch and side bracket.
Bracket; This is nothing fancy ! I used a bit of steel I had lying around from a corner reinforcing plate, but you could use anything, a bit of scrap steel or aluminium or whatever. I cut the metal down to shape and size using a pair of tin snips. Not really necessary, but I tidied the edges and rounded the corners using a file. I then marked the holes and centre punched them before drilling. A bit of black spray paint and it looks like it has always been there.
Hope this is helpful and all makes sense. Best of luck with your project.
Hey ScaleMeDown, which plate do you use for TPU?
The textured flexible magnetic build plate
Would adding exoslide on gantry might get better too for the CR-10 Max ?
Probably. For 3D printing RC aircraft thin wall printing is required where the extruder accuracy (and retraction settings in particular) is the most important. This was our fo at 3D printing a flying model; ruclips.net/video/Yard7-3Art0/видео.html
Many thanks for the tips. Except that part with drilling - I know my skills in this matter, so I decided to print PLA replacements of original and unusable parts. Done and working... :)
You are welcome. Glad you got it all working.
got a link maybe to you prints? 😊
My E-stepper motor is turning the wrong way and switching the cables on the connector doesn't work. Do I need micro swiss firmware to change this or do I need to recompile Marlin to get it working?
Interesting. Switching the A and B loop round on the connector should work. I didn't find this problem, but you could try the Microswiss firmware - I would be interested to hear the outcome
Did you have to change the esteps at all?
No, just the flow rate in Cura. This upgrade used the original feed stepper.
Thank you. I was hoping that was the case since I can't find estep adjustable on the display panel
For drilling the holes for the BL Touch sensor, did you just measure off the original bracket for location? Considering doing this mod on my CR10s pro v2.
Yes, I just measured the position of the BL touch from the old bracket, taking my time, centre punching, checking twice, - cutting once !
@@ScaleMeDown Thanks, took the plunge and ordered one. Thanks for the reply!
Cannot find the souce code to change offsets on marlin for cr10 max. They offer examples for all printers exept the max anybody know how to do it with marlin?
I couldn't find them either (as it is not designed for the max). Without reflashing this code you will lose a small amount of print volume (I lost about 15mm in the y direction)
Very much appreciate the video!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
@@ScaleMeDown where did you find the extension for the filment sensor or did you make one?
@@etahgnimusnoc Hi, I made one. The cable is sold as "servo wire" and the fittings for the ends are also model aircraft products called "JST-XH" balance plugs and sockets.