Pressure Switch Troubleshooting Explained
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2016
- This is how to tell if you have a BAD Pressure Switch on your 80% or 90% efficient gas furnace Explained in detail! Supervision is needed by a licensed HVAC Tech while doing this as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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I was a little concerned about the mixed reviews, but I used it last year and hooked it up again this year and it was great ruclips.net/user/postUgkx-izdrK3eF-HMvjzeBOxToD6Fx-4ulJUh . I couldn't get my 10' Intex pool above 76 degrees the year prior and last year I got it to 90 and had to put ice in it. This worked so well! I have just 1 mat hooked up to a 1,000 GPH Intex pump and it makes a significant reduction in the flow rate coming back into the pool, but that is to be expected with how far the water has to travel through the mat.
Ive watch many of your videos and you explain things very well and straight to the point, without trying to prove to the world that your better than the next guy going in to useless information!
Ha ha thank you very much! I am just trying to get the right info out there. Thanks Armando Alvarez!
Honestly, you have the best videos on you tube that someone learning can watch. I hope you keep making them.
Thank you very much! I appreciate that! There will be more to come! Thank you for your Comment and Thumbs up!
Watched this in my HVAC Tradeschool the other day. Nice job!
Thanks for watching!! Good luck with your studies in school!
Best instructional videos hands down. I usually rewatch your videos when the season change so I dont forget everything lol
Nice, thanks HVAC Guy!
thank you for sharing!!!
Thank you for your informative video. I would greatly appreciate it if you could do a video using T's in pressure switches
Excellent demo
Thank you Tbone!
Thank you for sharing
NICE VIDEO!!!! Helps a lot.
Thank you!
Great Video
I'm learning so much with you, thank you!
yes I agree. I just found you and your videos are helping me so much.
Thank you very much Cory, glad to hear!
Excellent video Thank You
Thank you for your Comment!
Well done!
Thanks Brian!
Thank you very much service tech....
You are welcome and glad you enjoyed the video!
Great great great video!
Thank you very much!
all these HVAC videos are great. problem is, my furnace (10 year old York) works for some period of time, and then randomly shuts off sometime during the day. and throws the pressure switch cycle lockout code. i checked, cleared and cleaned all pipes, hoses and ports. removed the inducer motor and i was thinking condensation is not being drained properly as there is a little build up of water on the inducer housing. so i checked the condensate drain hose, pitch and made sure it's not below the water level on the condensate pump. cleaned the flame sensor as well but that is obviously not the problem and neither are any of the two pressure switches as the furnace does work for sometime. the only thing left i can think of at this point is a new control board as it just doesn't make any sense.
Hi there. Im working on furnace brand Coleman. Pressure switch wont close while inducer motor on but seem dont hv enough power to.close the pressure switch. and ive hve replaced inducer motor while find out few blade on old indicer motor broken. also i ve checked venting accoding to manual and checked if.anything blocked the exhauses and intake. nothing that i noticed out of ordinary. couldnt figured out why and heat wont turn on due to pressure switch wont close. could you help me out and point out what could be the problem! possible board defective? Thanks
Thanks acservicetech for all your awesome videos. so when you blocked off the exhaust, the pressure of the switch now becomes less than the 0.68" w.c.? and that's why the switch opens? with no blockage the negative vent pressure has to be more than 0.68" w.c. for switch to close. is this correct? thanks.
That is correct Mark!
can you jump out the pressure switch to make the 24v go through the rest of the starting sequence?
I have a Bryant 90plus furnace. My pressure switch doesn't have any power 24v going to the wires at the switch. I get continuity on the terminals when inducer motor is on.
Maybe it just me, but this guy is so much better than the furnace guy. Very comprehensive. Thanks
Glad to help Brian!
So if you didnt get 24 volts on the other side meaning its not closing. That would indicates a bad pressure switch?
Fixed my furnace using a straightened coat hanger and blowing through a straw to clear the clogged tube which would not detach from the blower motor housing.
Cool, nice name!
Love your videos, quick queztion for you. I have a 80% furnace. I removed the top and bottom door to access the furnace. Code 31 was displayed stating pressure switch issue. I turned the power off and on and inducer motor came on, HSI and burners fired up. As soon as i put the bottom door back on it shut down and code 31 popped again. Did it several times. Runs fine without bottom door on. What could it be?
Is this a downflow furnace meaning are you opening the combustion door?
acservicetech no i mean the bottom cover to access the blower fan and circuit board. It has a sight glass on it. As long as that cover is open furnace runs but once i put it back on it cuts off. It is a regular 80% gas furnace by carrier.
Is there a tube that is off of the pressure switch. Did you check to make sure that the exhaust is not clogged? Is there good airflow for combustion into the furnace location? How old is this furnace? There could possibly be a dangerous issue such as a cracked heat exchanger and there may be an issue with pressurization through the crack in the heat exchanger. Anyway, that would create carbon monoxide which is a big danger. It is hard without seeing that one. I would say that you may need to call in a tech on that one, thanks Tariq!
I am not a tech but my light blinks 3 times. So I took everything apart including putting in a new inducer motor which wasn't the problem. Cleaned out traps and scoped the venting to which there are no obstructions. Saw the heat exchanger and looks fine. It is a 1 year old furnace with 3 switches. What are the most common causes of the 3 blinking lights if everything looks tight and free flowing?
What does the 3 blinking code say the problem is on the shroud of the furnace, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel LOW PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPEN- Indicates the low pressure switch input failed to close or call for heat, or opened during minimum heat. If opens after 5 minutes after ignition the next heating cycle will be restricted to maximum heat. Check for- Proper vent sizing -plugged condensate drain - Excessive wind - Restricted vent - Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used) - Improper pressure switch wiring - Water in vent piping, possible sagging pipe - Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing - Failed or out of calibration pressure switches.
I will mention that one of the pressure tubing was disconnected when the furnace failed. I reconnected it and tried cycling again to no avail.
hi, can you please tell me why on some furnace there's a hose that goes from gas valve to sealed combustion box and then to the pressure switch? also i see sometimes there's also a hose that connects two pressure switches. why is that? thanks.
When they go to the combustion box and the inducer housing, they are taking a negative pressure differential reading. Sometimes there are two pressure switches for different speeds. Sometimes there is a pressure switch for the condensate drain and another for just the inducer or the differential reading of the combustion box and inducer, thanks
thank you for the fast reply. but why is it important to know or the reason for this differential negative pressure reading? thanks.
It is to make sure that there is no clog in the exhaust, intake or the heat exchanger is not clogged with rust such as on 90% efficient furnaces, thanks
THANKS A LOT!!
It was a dead bird stuck in the vent
Oh wow, nice!
So much for using my vacuum. Leaf blower here we go. Thanks
I changed a single speed inducer with a 2 speed motor. I hooked it up on the high setting. It ran for a week fine and then gives a inducer fan fault code. I have checked every component in the safety circuit and it checks out, but throws the same code immediately.
Any ideas?
You would have to measure the voltage off the board and the water column reading for the pressure switch. I would advise to replace the inducer with the exact same for exhaust safety and pressure switch rating
So the switch is more than on or off.
I replaced the board and got the same code. Waited 2 days for service expert and of course, the unit fired right up for him. Runs fine, but I have a bad feeling about this🤔
so when the combustion air intake or the exhaust vent is blocked, the negative pressure created will always be LESS then the pressure switch rating?
Check out this playlist- ruclips.net/video/XKAyznghlro/видео.html
thanks for the reply. i saw a video for a sealed combustion where a hose is connected from a pressure switch to the sealed burner box. normal running condition the negative pressure reading was -0.16" w.c. but when the combustion air intake was blocked off, the negative pressure increased to -0.86" w.c. does this sound right? i thought a blocked vent/air intake would decrease the -0.16" w.c.
I apologize, I read to quickly thinking the question was the same as the previous one you posted on this video. My apologizes! Since there is no combustion air then yes it will get more negative depending on the torque possible of the inducer motor. Thanks
no need for the apology acservicetech. i am sorry but i am still confused of what you're trying to say here. let's say the rating on a pressure switch is 1.0" w.c. If there was a blockage on the combustion air intake or the exhaust vent and if i were to hook up a manometer, what reading would i get? something lower than 1.0" w.c or something higher than 1.0" w.c? thanks.
i believe the reading on the manometer should be lower than the 1.0" w.c. and therefore an open pressure switch to prevent an unsafe condition ( venting blockage ). is this correct?
you need a manometer to properly diagnose a pressure switch, a meter is better than nothing, but you REALLY need a manometer to properly check the vacuum,.. you also cannot diagnose a high efficient furnace without one.
Hey MrDmadness, here are some videos on the digital manometer, thanks- ruclips.net/video/QAEBLigVD5g/видео.html -- ruclips.net/video/mKtGL8NJ58Q/видео.html
Mucho bueno
Thanks Chad!
at about 2:58 you say "if this pressure switch is closed it will also read voltage".....i thought you couldn't read voltage across a closed switch?
Put one probe on ground or the c terminal and one probe on one switch. Then keep the one probe on ground or the C terminal and put the other probe on the other side of the switch. You would read 24v on each side meaning that the switch is closed. Thanks
acservicetech thanks amigo, I'm fresh outta HVAC school and still have a long way to paddle.
Keep trucking and always be hungry to learn more! Thanks for your question!
B
Here are some pressure switch videos using a manometer or manometer with pump, thanks