TiteBond3: there's no better glue to use. Well done! I was a bit surprised you didn't glue gussets on the back side of the rib right after removing it from the jig, then set it under the jig to press the gussets down onto the capstrip.
Leaving them overhanging is fine. Later in you’ll put it on a bench sander (I used a belt sander upside down in a vice) and sand the outside of the ribs. You don’t want varnish on where the fabric will glue down. The pollytack seals it. And if not that the Polly brush. If you varnish the fabric glue doesn’t stick to it as well. If there’s any gussets overhanging they just get sanded.
I probably wouldn't have the full length board at the bottom. No wood at joints, other than parts of the rib/no glue caking to cleanup on jig parts. Like your storage under rib jig. Thx for video. About ready to build the rib jig after watching your video. Thx!
Nice and organized! You might find it better for you if you had a work bench that was podium height and worked standing, I've been doing it and feel better as a result. Thanks and stay safe!
Hi Tom. I really liked this build video, very clear and easy to understand. Rib building now seems very Zen instead of intimidating. I'm curious if you plan on doing more videos on this build?
Amazingly clear.. thanx for sharing! If only you did a video on every stage, It’d all be as easy, haha. Love to see more short vids of stages along the way. Especially how u make your jigs. Thanx!
Sorry I should have read your question better. I thought you were talking about the gussets for the ribs. You should direct your question to Leonard Milholand the designer. Leonard@lemilholland.com
Titebond is nowhere near strong enough. Make some test parts and glue them comparing to t88 epoxy! T88 penetrates and the failure is the wood breaking and not the glue joint. You will change your mind on this thought
Hi Tom,excellent work, congratulations! I need to order the plywood for the spars from Aircraft Spruce, do you know which one is correct? (it is 1/8 thick but, what kind? How many ply
Do not use Lite Plywood!!! Higher number of plys is better but some thicknesses are only available in 3 ply. Birch plywood is strong. pay close attention to the grain direction when cutting the gussets. when cutting a triangle gusset the top and bottom grain should run parallel to the longest side (Hypotenuse) of the triangle for 90 degree corners. For "T" intersection's the grain should run parallel to the shorter side. For the rectangular gussets the grain should be parallel to the short side.
Hello Tom, your work looks great. I assume you are using white wood glue and not epoxy? Any reason for that? I am looking at building the DE (already have the plans) and the ribs are very similar. I am following your build with interest. All the best. Allan , Durban, South Africa.
Yes, I used Titebond III glue and it is waterproof. I did some testing with this glue and it was stronger than the wood. But do your own testing and decide for yourself.
@@ronaldrose6885 I agree that T88 epoxy is the proven method. Here is a discussion from Eagler's Nest www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=1540.0 Use at your own risk. I am not recommending any adhesives.
@@tomrammel Your entire video is rife with technical flaws that would never satisfy AC-43 etc. as proven methods for aircraft use. Wood glue has never been approved for aircraft use...good epoxy has been approved. Some of your stick joints have a sloppy fit. The trailing edge upper and lower members should have both been tapered for a stronger joint for instance. I was going to build a Legal Eagle until I got into the "community" chat group and decided that the entire atmosphere was full of " hey, not exactly right but it will probably work ok ". That won't work for me...unsafe. Too many people on the net are now showing " how to do things" like you do here and while you're not libel for anything, others less informed, may take your show as " acceptable for aircraft use " and find themselves later in harms way and have no idea why. That's dangerous and could harm others. Why not show how it should be done rather that how it could be done and get it right and set a good example for others ? FYI....I've built four airplanes from scratch, Fisher 202, Skypup, Christavia and Headwind and flown them all nicely.
I used 500 Feet of spruce for the ribs. I purchased quantity 100 pieces five feet long. Cut the top and bottom (long pieces) first, then figure the most efficient use of the tails from the top and bottoms. (example one diagonal and one vertical) then cut the remaining diagonals and verticals from the remaining 5 foot pieces. I ordered the plywood at the same time and used a large paper cutter to cut the plywood shapes. Easy and fast way to cut thin plywood.
If that is a tite bond type 3 glue,and your are only applying it to one piece, you are going to have a glue starved joint = in flight failure...caution! T88epoxy
I agree that T88 epoxy is the proven method. Here is a discussion from Eagler's Nest www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=1540.0 Use at your own risk. I am not recommending any adhesives.
I see Wood Workers Tight Bond II on this Rib ?..... NOT approved by EAA at all for construction, it is a great glue, I use it a lot in my shop but NOT on ANY airplane Ribs AT ALL ! they say it is water proof but in time it can fail for a multitude of reasons ..........GOOD LUCK ..... any reason your not using an approved adhesive ? EAA has ton's of building advice online .
Use T-88 approved Aircraft Grade Epoxy or similar. Wood glue is NOT ok. Wood glue has weak end grain adhesion strength and isn't for outdoor exposure to elements as opposed to polyurethane types and will deteriorate quickly. But if you want your aircraft registered and don't want to buy the farm, use approved aircraft grade glues. Photograph each component on completion and keep a builder's log and get engineer inspection sign offs !!
Plans for this ultralight airplane are available for purchase from this website: www.betterhalfvw.com/packages.html This is the legal Eagle designed by Leonard Milholland and the current price for the plans is $190.00 from Leonard.
Tite bond is not a good idea at all. I have made test parts and tried that and other single part glued vs t88 and no comparison in strength. The wood fails before the glue joints always. With tite bond? Glue joints every time.
Thanks for your comment, T88 epoxy glue is what most use. just don't mix so much that it starts to harden before it is all used. Hardening epoxy can also make week joints.
6:10 A casual observation from this armchair warrior who is an expert at dunking Oreo cookies into milk: the direction you clamp the next three vertical members in place seems "counter-intuitive" to me. Seems the clamping action is pulling the members out of compression between top and bottom rib surfaces. If you moved the clamping block to other side, then the inserted member would be pressed more tightly into the final space. Would my idea result in too much glue being squeezed out? I'm just wondering, if your technique "stretches" the glue joint. Back to eating Oreos.
The gussets actually provide the structural support here. A close fit and glue is nice for each joint but it’s not really structural. Titebond-3 is really good stuff and rated for exterior use (read moisture exposure). Personally would use epoxy but it’s something I keep in the shop for boat projects already.
Sorry about the shaky camera at the beginning of the video. The majority of the video is better as the camera is on a tripod. You can skip the beginning if it bothers you.
The work is too distant to see critical details. When mentioning a double cut, for example, the presenter does not show it, nor does he explain why or how those cuts are made or how to assure they are correctly placed. Unless the viewer has a set of plans for reference, mostly what is gained from this video is the sequence of gluing and stapling braces and gussets. It would have been far more helpful to show the plan detail, then the cutting and exact sizing of parts. This video starts after all the most critical preparation has been done. That is true also as concerns the jig. I would far prefer a careful explanation of jig construction over watching a glue-up. Finally, showing where and saying why staples are placed in the gussets, along with the size and type of staple would have been helpful. Perhaps all this is explained in the plans, but saying “the plans call for thus and so, and here is how and why” is a very good thing in an instructional format.
No, no, no Tom! NEVER use water based wood glue!! Moisture and heat from sun will cause these glue joints to fail in time! MUST use epoxy for A/C construction!!!! Not worth risking your life!
This video should be removed....using a PVA based glue is NOT acceptable practice in aircraft construction. If you want to endanger your life it's up to you.....by being this irresponsible you may well cause the death of another. Please do the right thing and take this video down....
Mattivirta, please show all how to do that, and it would be nice for you to show how the whole carbon fiber ribs or aluminium ones come together in the wing.
Did Mattivirta ever get his video showing his option of carbon fiber ribs or aluminum ribs all done and posted, never have found one. Would like to know how much time, money and weight you would save?
TiteBond3: there's no better glue to use. Well done! I was a bit surprised you didn't glue gussets on the back side of the rib right after removing it from the jig, then set it under the jig to press the gussets down onto the capstrip.
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. This took away a lot of the trepidation I felt about the process.
Thank you Tony, Good luck on your build.
Very informative. I wish you had made videos of the fuselage build.
Leaving them overhanging is fine. Later in you’ll put it on a bench sander (I used a belt sander upside down in a vice) and sand the outside of the ribs. You don’t want varnish on where the fabric will glue down. The pollytack seals it. And if not that the Polly brush. If you varnish the fabric glue doesn’t stick to it as well. If there’s any gussets overhanging they just get sanded.
Thanks for your comment.
So appreciate this video! Wow. Excellent work. The jig is very amazing as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Kevin, It is nice to have my work appreciated.
@@tomrammel would love more videos of your Legal Eagle. (-:
I probably wouldn't have the full length board at the bottom. No wood at joints, other than parts of the rib/no glue caking to cleanup on jig parts.
Like your storage under rib jig.
Thx for video. About ready to build the rib jig after watching your video. Thx!
Sounds like a good tip. We can always learn from others and there is always more than one way to do things.
Nice and organized! You might find it better for you if you had a work bench that was podium height and worked standing, I've been doing it and feel better as a result. Thanks and stay safe!
Thanks for the tips!
Excellent craftsmanship - thx for posting.
Cheers
Thank You for your kind comments.
Priceless the way you blow off all the Cliff Claven safety experts. I'm sure the glue you're using will be just fine.
Thank you for your support. Most of the time I only hear the negative side of the argument.
It's hard to trim off the overhang of plywood, don't do it if you can. Never use a belt sander on a rib. Just fit them right from the beginning.
Hi Tom. I really liked this build video, very clear and easy to understand. Rib building now seems very Zen instead of intimidating. I'm curious if you plan on doing more videos on this build?
I think the next video will be about the CNC laser cutter that I am building.
Oh and I don;t have the plans yet. This video will help me decide.
Good luck with your decision.
Sure would be nice if you set up your camera so we could actually see your work. Dandahermit
Thanks for your comment. I will try to do better next time.
@@tomrammel you’re doing a great job! Thank you for the instructional video!
Amazingly clear.. thanx for sharing! If only you did a video on every stage, It’d all be as easy, haha.
Love to see more short vids of stages along the way. Especially how u make your jigs.
Thanx!
Thanks Tom, can I use Birch 1/8, 3 plies for the Fort and rear spars?
Sorry I should have read your question better. I thought you were talking about the gussets for the ribs. You should direct your question to Leonard Milholand the designer. Leonard@lemilholland.com
Good / informative video !
Thank you Pablo.
What kind of stapler do you use and did you have to modify it?
I just used a regular construction staple gun from menards. And no modifications were necessary.
Is this the only video of the legal eagle you made
Yes, sorry too many other projects.
No futuro acredito que todos usarão o titebond 3
Titebond is nowhere near strong enough. Make some test parts and glue them comparing to t88 epoxy! T88 penetrates and the failure is the wood breaking and not the glue joint. You will change your mind on this thought
Hello, I would like to know what wing profile the Legal Eagle is built in.? I know it's a NACA but I don't have the number. Thank you.!!
Sorry, But I do not know the NACA airfoil number. You could ask the designer:
Leonard Milholland
PO Box 747
Brookshire, Texas 77423
(281) 785-3777
14% Clark Y
Hi Tom,excellent work, congratulations! I need to order the plywood for the spars from Aircraft Spruce, do you know which one is correct? (it is 1/8 thick but, what kind? How many ply
Do not use Lite Plywood!!! Higher number of plys is better but some thicknesses are only available in 3 ply. Birch plywood is strong. pay close attention to the grain direction when cutting the gussets. when cutting a triangle gusset the top and bottom grain should run parallel to the longest side (Hypotenuse) of the triangle for 90 degree corners. For "T" intersection's the grain should run parallel to the shorter side. For the rectangular gussets the grain should be parallel to the short side.
Hello Tom, your work looks great. I assume you are using white wood glue and not epoxy? Any reason for that? I am looking at building the DE (already have the plans) and the ribs are very similar. I am following your build with interest. All the best. Allan , Durban, South Africa.
Yes, I used Titebond III glue and it is waterproof. I did some testing with this glue and it was stronger than the wood. But do your own testing and decide for yourself.
You should be using T88 epoxy..water proof does not mean a good bond,especially when it is applied to one piece only..research my friend.
@@ronaldrose6885 I agree that T88 epoxy is the proven method. Here is a discussion from Eagler's Nest www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=1540.0 Use at your own risk. I am not recommending any adhesives.
@@tomrammel Your entire video is rife with technical flaws that would never satisfy AC-43 etc. as proven methods for aircraft use. Wood glue has never been approved for aircraft use...good epoxy has been approved. Some of your stick joints have a sloppy fit. The trailing edge upper and lower members should have both been tapered for a stronger joint for instance. I was going to build a Legal Eagle until I got into the "community" chat group and decided that the entire atmosphere was full of " hey, not exactly right but it will probably work ok ". That won't work for me...unsafe. Too many people on the net are now showing " how to do things" like you do here and while you're not libel for anything, others less informed, may take your show as " acceptable for aircraft use " and find themselves later in harms way and have no idea why. That's dangerous and could harm others. Why not show how it should be done rather that how it could be done and get it right and set a good example for others ? FYI....I've built four airplanes from scratch, Fisher 202, Skypup, Christavia and Headwind and flown them all nicely.
First I enjoyed watching the video thanks. Second what kind of glue are you using and what did you staple at about 1020.
The staples were removed after the glue dried.
You should never use PVA derived glue for aircraft! One good rain and the you run a very likely risk of glue failures.
What glue are used..
Most say that T88 epoxy glue should be used. I do not recommend adhesives for liability reasons
how many feet of spruce did you use
I used 500 Feet of spruce for the ribs. I purchased quantity 100 pieces five feet long. Cut the top and bottom (long pieces) first, then figure the most efficient use of the tails from the top and bottoms. (example one diagonal and one vertical) then cut the remaining diagonals and verticals from the remaining 5 foot pieces.
I ordered the plywood at the same time and used a large paper cutter to cut the plywood shapes. Easy and fast way to cut thin plywood.
What are the staples made from? Are they Stainless Steel?
No the staples are not SS but they are removed after the glue dries. Less weight and not necessary after the glue dries.
can you posT A VID ON MAKING YHE SPARS THANKS
Sorry, too many projects right now. I haven't started building the spars yet. You may have to find them on another channel.
Qual cola voçe usa
Most recommend T88 Epoxy.
Tom como ficou está colada com Titebonde.voce fez testes
What kind of glue are you using for this build ?
Most say that T88 epoxy glue should be used. I do not recommend adhesives for liability reasons.
If that is a tite bond type 3 glue,and your are only applying it to one piece, you are going to have a glue starved joint = in flight failure...caution! T88epoxy
I agree that T88 epoxy is the proven method. Here is a discussion from Eagler's Nest www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=1540.0 Use at your own risk. I am not recommending any adhesives.
I see Wood Workers Tight Bond II on this Rib ?..... NOT approved by EAA at all for construction, it is a great glue, I use it a lot in my shop but NOT on ANY airplane Ribs AT ALL ! they say it is water proof but in time it can fail for a multitude of reasons ..........GOOD LUCK ..... any reason your not using an approved adhesive ? EAA has ton's of building advice online .
Thanks for your advice. Anyone that has concerns about the adhesive should use the EAA recommended T88 Epoxy.
I thought epoxy is what needs to be used. Wood glue is ok?
Use T-88 approved Aircraft Grade Epoxy or similar. Wood glue is NOT ok. Wood glue has weak end grain adhesion strength and isn't for outdoor exposure to elements as opposed to polyurethane types and will deteriorate quickly. But if you want your aircraft registered and don't want to buy the farm, use approved aircraft grade glues. Photograph each component on completion and keep a builder's log and get engineer inspection sign offs !!
Hi , sir.
Is blueprint open source ? Is it available in Internet?
Thanks.
Plans for this ultralight airplane are available for purchase from this website: www.betterhalfvw.com/packages.html This is the legal Eagle designed by Leonard Milholland and the current price for the plans is $190.00 from Leonard.
Tite bond is not a good idea at all. I have made test parts and tried that and other single part glued vs t88 and no comparison in strength. The wood fails before the glue joints always. With tite bond? Glue joints every time.
Thanks for your comment, T88 epoxy glue is what most use. just don't mix so much that it starts to harden before it is all used. Hardening epoxy can also make week joints.
Teach me to do airplanes.
To learn me to build an airplayne please.
Yes, watch the videos.
6:10 A casual observation from this armchair warrior who is an expert at dunking Oreo cookies into milk: the direction you clamp the next three vertical members in place seems "counter-intuitive" to me. Seems the clamping action is pulling the members out of compression between top and bottom rib surfaces. If you moved the clamping block to other side, then the inserted member would be pressed more tightly into the final space. Would my idea result in too much glue being squeezed out? I'm just wondering, if your technique "stretches" the glue joint. Back to eating Oreos.
I see your point, I guess when you build your rib jig you can build it as you suggest. For me my ribs are already built.
The gussets actually provide the structural support here. A close fit and glue is nice for each joint but it’s not really structural. Titebond-3 is really good stuff and rated for exterior use (read moisture exposure). Personally would use epoxy but it’s something I keep in the shop for boat projects already.
You da Man !!!
Joel, Thanks for the comment.
selten so ungeschickte Haende gesehen, wie ernaehrt sich der Inhaber der Haende?
Sorry about the shaky camera at the beginning of the video. The majority of the video is better as the camera is on a tripod. You can skip the beginning if it bothers you.
Ronald is right, What a waste of time using tightbond glue. Might as well use scotch tape. Very dangerous idea!!
The work is too distant to see critical details. When mentioning a double cut, for example, the presenter does not show it, nor does he explain why or how those cuts are made or how to assure they are correctly placed. Unless the viewer has a set of plans for reference, mostly what is gained from this video is the sequence of gluing and stapling braces and gussets. It would have been far more helpful to show the plan detail, then the cutting and exact sizing of parts. This video starts after all the most critical preparation has been done. That is true also as concerns the jig. I would far prefer a careful explanation of jig construction over watching a glue-up. Finally, showing where and saying why staples are placed in the gussets, along with the size and type of staple would have been helpful. Perhaps all this is explained in the plans, but saying “the plans call for thus and so, and here is how and why” is a very good thing in an instructional format.
Thanks for your input, I hope to improve with constructive comments like yours.
Makes 44 I've made. An you want to trim your gussets before glue., Much easier.
No, no, no Tom! NEVER use water based wood glue!! Moisture and heat from sun will cause these glue joints to fail in time! MUST use epoxy for A/C construction!!!! Not worth risking your life!
Thanks for the tip!
Now I'm just confused. I've been using wood-based water glue.
This video should be removed....using a PVA based glue is NOT acceptable practice in aircraft construction. If you want to endanger your life it's up to you.....by being this irresponsible you may well cause the death of another.
Please do the right thing and take this video down....
why waste time build wood, need only wod mold, and make carbon fiber ribs. or aluminium. lot better and lightweight.
That sounds good, you should make a video showing us all how to do that.😀
Mattivirta, please show all how to do that, and it would be nice for you to show how the whole carbon fiber ribs or aluminium ones come together in the wing.
Did Mattivirta ever get his video showing his option of carbon fiber ribs or aluminum ribs all done and posted, never have found one. Would like to know how much time, money and weight you would save?