Pls make a video showing exactly which relay you used. Mr price wasn’t too specific. For some reason whenever I ask for a 40amp relay the part they try to give me plugs in. I definitely can’t connect it to my remote wire.
Currently I have to power down my sub amp (via bass knob) before shutting down the truck to avoid this. Prior to doing so I have been scared nearly to death by 4 8’s. It would happen when I opened the door and totally not expecting it.
Man im having this problem..I had a taramps smart 5k bass right it went out so I bought the taramps smart 5k version and the taramps eq and now everything works but its a loud pop noise when I turn my car off and its scary loud..
Mine was making a loud pop until I relocated the remote wire to the red acc wire from the blue/white wire. That made the amp cut off at the same time as the radio instead of after.
this worked for me, thanks. had this problem for some months now. it still makes a very small pop but it’s not noticeable unless your REALLY listen like and have ur ear next to the speaker
a relay seems to work but NOT ALWAYS, a relay is still necessary when having multiple gear PLUS will be needing a delay/timer connected NOT into the amp, but into the rest of the signal processing components, fixes it 100%, and you don't necessarily need a delay/timer for each one, I'm sure there are more tricks, but this one is guaranteed to work
I’m having this problem too. It only happens when we run a preamp. Once we take the preamp out and run everything to the head unit there is no popping when turning the car off or on. Once we add a preamp(asp) popping occurs when we shut the car off. Tried running a relay but still pops. Switched the remote to the ignition and the pop occurred when we start the car and not when we shut the car off. In all circumstances we are running a relay. So I was wondering what should we do? Thank you!
Damn I jus started having this issue..I had the taramps smart 5k bass no issue besides it jus went into protection mode so I bought the taramps smart 5k version and the taramps eq and now when I turn my car off its a loud pop noise..I dnt wanna mess up my amps or subs what do I do???
I've had that popping issue in the past. Turns out it was from my RCAs running next to my live wire and whenever I'd hit the key I'd get that loud pop from the electrical current transferring through the wires insulation and that would cause a break in the signal going from the deck to the amp. I had to completely pull my RCAs and run them on the passenger side separate from the live what runs the drivers side.
I haven't searched online yet but after reading your comment I wonder if they make RCA cables that are "shielded". I do HVAC and I use shielded thermostat wire in some situations so I'm curious now. Sorry just my random thought 😆. Glad you figured out your issue 💯✌🙌
I run a toggle switch so i can just turn it off and on as needed.ive heard shouldn't and dont need a relay as it pulls more amperage.there's a video on youtube about it.
I never use the ignition or key to turn my system on and off, just like you said I always use toggle switches. It's the only way to go. Also that way the stereo is mostly separated from the vehicles electronics, makes for a much cleaner sound with no issues
Thats a good idea! I know some head units with more functons than other tell you to run a small chassis ground and connect thru the ground of the wiring harness when running external amp either way the relay idea makes sense great video jp!
Thanks I thought my eq master volume was turned up to high ? one more question I does having the remote wire cca wire instead of ofc wire make a difference
If multiple pieces of your equipment/hardware has GTO/remote wire TO technology and you're not using it through the initial source only that is your problem. You also can not splice the wire circuit you use for the remote TO you must either tap into it or use connectors to ensure the vehicles software system reads it as a single circuit on any vehicle with an OBD2 or that has security or other systems run through/with the head unit.
Having this issue now wasn't happening before..had four amps before... remote wire was on distribution block and amps were grounded to frame and it didnt do it...now I have 3 amps but didn't use the fuse block..sorta jumped from on amp to the next..plus the amp grounds are on back battery condition one of these be the issue
@@OnealEddie 6" square by 2" one button on it.. Nothing else. If you had a Rockford Fosgate Punch 45 and two punch 10in woofers you were boss. 😁👍 Agreed! Young Bumps don't know the struggle.
Many times this has to do with your headunit. There is a way to stop it completely, and what he is talking about is to shut off your amps before you turn off your signal source. hiring head units usually don't do this but a lot of the cheap Stereos on the market like those Android head units for $45 do this. this is kind of the reason why engineering does matter and the products that you purchase sure may sound great but it's the little things that really do matter
If you are using more than one grounding location this will happen you can fix it by either putting them all on the same ground or using a ground loop isolator which are pretty cheap.
So I recently bought a JP MM1004 and installed it. Amp is great, only issue is when I turn off car it pops. I'm going to try the relay BUT if it don't work. I'm going to pull stereo and bypass remote wire. Run everything off of the ACC wire (key on wire for stereo, usually red wire). If the key is on everything powers up together instead of going through stereo for ON/OFF operation
Did you figure it out? I just received my MM1005 and it has turn off pop. I already tried the acc method and it did not fix it. Gonna be pissed if it's this amp. It did not do this with any other amps I had wired the same way. It seems the amp is turning off after the head unit.
@@Jaydogg209 don't use remote out wire from stereo to amp. Use the accessory wire to both. If I used the stereo remote out wire the head unit would turn off first and cause a pop sound. Now, wired to factory accessory wire they turn off together. Metra makes a timer relay as well. That may help you in your situation. Idk
@212Tan if I can't manage to fix the problem, will it damage the capacitors powering off like that with the pop? I already wired it to my acc wire and didn't fix it, Doesn't that delay timer just delay the pop and not stop it?
A simple thing like that wire splice causes the system a the slightest delay to read it (millionths of a second) but it is a delay and you have it coming on you just don't have the POP to make you aware of it. Hopefully that explains it in lay or non electricianal term's so it's easy to understand for all. My biggest recommendation to any and all is use the connectors people. This is a huge investment to most, it's your vehicle and sound you've paid money big or small but it's yours so ensure you take care of it and you can't go wrong doing it that way.
What makes it do the loud popping when you put it in it slams and sounds really good but then when you put it in gear it stops and makes the thud noise
I'm running a Rockville 8K to 2 15in Skar VFX-15s. When I turn on my head unit the amp comes on and I hear very soft sound coming from the subs. I have adjusted everything to the max and back to mid to nothing. Nothing works. What is the issue?
@THELIFEOFPRICE your description says when you turn off your system you also said when you turn off your system at the start of the video and again at the end of the video but you only explained when you turn on your system what about turning off your system ???
@@your_doctor_and_plumber for me it's both.. but can be random and also how loud the noise/popping is. When I turn off it it takes a couple of seconds for the pop since the amps and high low adapter has delayed turn on/off
I just turned my gain down some....and it solved the problem.....I had a huge thump at shutdown.....I thought it was gunna blow something up.....so much so that I searched it.....and backing off the gain problem solved
Now I had this when I run a high level input off the stock stereo. I run sundown on the lower class amp from them. The only way it would stop with that is turn down the bass level. Never had problems after that
I want to get a second avatar 15, but the first one (current)I definitely pushed it to see where the critical fail point is at on them, coil is a little scratchy I also figured out my alternator is dying so it’s possible it clipped at one of those drops. How do I go about getting this one swapped and order a second one(building ported box for them)
what happen when we ignore this problem? sub or amp can damage? because my system have samething this issue, but for me his doesn't get any annoying or problem for me lol just pop sound when my amp turned off. just ignore, can damage my system my gear?
I installed a bus bar and run my main Power supply to the bus bar then I ran 2 wires to both of my amps that away both amps turned off at the same time I do not have any popping
My system doesn't do that. But what it does do after I turn it off is that it's still playing at a very low volume, 1 or 2 seconds, and then it's off. It's a small issue that I'd like to solve.
Most people have this problem when using a toggle switch lol running off a main power and all they have to do is remember to turn toggle switch off before u turn car off
Hi, can you tell me why my subwoofer makes a BOOM every time the car engine starts. How can I get rid of this problem? Thanks and congratulations for your videos.
You don't need to use a relay, the remote turn on doesn't use enough amperage to require a relay, even if you're using 6 amplifiers. I suggest turning the volume all the way down before you turn your system off. Also use a toggle switch to turn your system/amplifiers on and off with instead of the ignition
Bad connector bro...make sure your ground are sand if u running big power doin from the chasis....make sure bass amp has his omw ground sand and tie....
whining usually comes from having your power and RCA cables too close. The magnetic field around the power wire disrupts the signal in the RCA cable. You should never run RCA and power wires next to each other. If you are running the wires to the back of the car, run the power and RCA cables down opposite sides of the car. A sure fire way to know if this is your problem is when the whining noise frequency increases as the car revs go up (alternator spinning faster).
I have a Sundown Audio SFB-3000D. Since cold weather (below 45f) when I start my vehicle in the morning the amp fan is very fast and loud for about 2 minutes then it goes silent. It only does this when its cold outside. Anyone have this problem? If it is just a failing fan then no big deal. I can replace it myself. What I'm afraid of is that there is a problem beyond just the fan since it only does this for a couple of minutes then quits and only in the morning when its cold outside. The fan literally sounds like its going to fly apart. The amp is fairly new and bought from D4S. Is running at 2ohm on good electrical.
Great video thanks JP. I don't have this problem but I've known people who do! Question: say you have a 4 channel amp that you are trying to wire for a car with 4 door speakers and 2 dash tweeters. If I connect 1 tweeter and 1 door speaker to the same channel will they be getting half the watts each? So door speakers is 50watts, tweeter is 50 watts. And a single channel on the amplifier outputs 100watts. If I put the tweeter and speeker both on the same channel will they get 50watt each Or both get 100watt?
You’d want a cross over for the tweeters so it’s not getting the full range of frequency and mess your tweeters up. The wattage is all determined by the ohms on that channel.
Also when you do put that crossover in it will not drop your ohm load down it will keep it at 4 ohm that's if your door speaker and your tweeter is a 4ohm speaker and tweeter. But definitely recommend a crossover.
Thank you both for your input. I'm still unsure how many watts my speaker and tweeter will be getting tho. My speaker is rated 50watt rms and my tweeter is also 50watt rms. When I put them both on the same 100watt channel, how many watts will be going to each of them? Will they both get the full 100watts from that channel or will they each get half (50watts) from the channel
@@RandoManFPV Use bass blockers on the tweeters and then hook them to the same channel,,your watts depends on your Ohms ,and you should be in that area ,,and it will sound good .. Good luck !
Never had this problem but i have a brother who was a car audio installer at the best shop in my area but i have heard it in back yard installs always wondered what it was now i know lol
Hey JP here’s my question for you. Every time I upgrade my system and go bigger, louder, better. I’m always satisfied at first but every time (at least 15 dif setups, since my first system at 14yr old- 2 years before I could even drive) at some point not long after break in, I always want more and feel it isn’t loud anymore. Does this ever stop? Is it ever loud enough?
Never metered. Nothing extreme yet I have to many kids I have to keep room for. Just wondering if anyone else has this problem and if they ever are satisfied
@@wetdookie3808 When I 1st started out I was looking to do 150 D b's now I'm looking to do 160's. And then after watching 5 star car stereo on RUclips II try to make sure I have great wire management and a good soundstage so I don't think it ever really ends
That's entirely subjective but the short answer is, no. There's always something better and we always want it. It's literally an addiction. Bass or audio is just your drug of choice.
Wait this guy just said that the remote wire being daisy chained makes that sound? Lol smdh that is definitely a grounding or signal noise definitely not anything to do with the remote wire or how it’s ran.... Smdh guy just proved my point right here lol see ppl guy knows nothing! He just gathers info from boxes and says it... no actual experience because he has everyone else do the installs for him! Must be nice to be that rich lol
You're a textbook hater. Who cares if he has money and pays others to install his huge complex system? I know I probably would if I had the money. Relays are used to turn things on/off reliably at the same time. I believe some head units send out a pulse of voltage as they power off.. so if your amp is still on when that happens (by not using a relay), the pulse is gonna travel down the RCAs and to the amp. Of course there are other possible reasons for a "pop" sound but that is a common one.
Thank you so much for the answer!!!!!
Will u make a vid how to wire up and install the relay?
it would have helped to HAVE a relay for an example to show and explain how it works specifically.
Cause he doesn’t know he pay for his builds lol
Right thanks for telling us we have to do something I have no idea how to do
sometimes if the gain is high up on the amp it will thump too
Is there a video on how to install a relay on a sub
How do you wire the relay ??
My subs never did that an once I added an EQ to my system it started.
I put my remote wire on a toggle switch. Ran directly to the battery with a inline 5 amp fuse. Turn the amps off first. Then the ignition.
Thanks for answering without the answer. What relay?!?!?!?
Can we get a video about how to calculate port area and tunning it?
Congrats on the engagement brother
Lol his wife is a runner me and Chris ran her back in are college days back in 09
Ive had this problem since i put my system in. Made sure all ground are good still happening so i guess ill try the relay.
me 2 ill try
Pls make a video showing exactly which relay you used. Mr price wasn’t too specific. For some reason whenever I ask for a 40amp relay the part they try to give me plugs in. I definitely can’t connect it to my remote wire.
Currently I have to power down my sub amp (via bass knob) before shutting down the truck to avoid this. Prior to doing so I have been scared nearly to death by 4 8’s. It would happen when I opened the door and totally not expecting it.
Lol....me 2
Man im having this problem..I had a taramps smart 5k bass right it went out so I bought the taramps smart 5k version and the taramps eq and now everything works but its a loud pop noise when I turn my car off and its scary loud..
Mine does the exact same thing when I put it in gear to leave it makes that noise and don't stop
Mine was making a loud pop until I relocated the remote wire to the red acc wire from the blue/white wire. That made the amp cut off at the same time as the radio instead of after.
this worked for me, thanks. had this problem for some months now. it still makes a very small pop but it’s not noticeable unless your REALLY listen like and have ur ear next to the speaker
That always been the easiest fix without having to buy extras!
a relay seems to work but NOT ALWAYS, a relay is still necessary when having multiple gear PLUS will be needing a delay/timer connected NOT into the amp, but into the rest of the signal processing components, fixes it 100%, and you don't necessarily need a delay/timer for each one, I'm sure there are more tricks, but this one is guaranteed to work
I’m having this problem too. It only happens when we run a preamp. Once we take the preamp out and run everything to the head unit there is no popping when turning the car off or on. Once we add a preamp(asp) popping occurs when we shut the car off. Tried running a relay but still pops. Switched the remote to the ignition and the pop occurred when we start the car and not when we shut the car off. In all circumstances we are running a relay. So I was wondering what should we do? Thank you!
I’m having this same issue right now. I think one of my Skar EVL 12 blew for this reason. Guess I won’t be using the preamp!
Damn I jus started having this issue..I had the taramps smart 5k bass no issue besides it jus went into protection mode so I bought the taramps smart 5k version and the taramps eq and now when I turn my car off its a loud pop noise..I dnt wanna mess up my amps or subs what do I do???
I've had that popping issue in the past. Turns out it was from my RCAs running next to my live wire and whenever I'd hit the key I'd get that loud pop from the electrical current transferring through the wires insulation and that would cause a break in the signal going from the deck to the amp. I had to completely pull my RCAs and run them on the passenger side separate from the live what runs the drivers side.
I haven't searched online yet but after reading your comment I wonder if they make RCA cables that are "shielded". I do HVAC and I use shielded thermostat wire in some situations so I'm curious now. Sorry just my random thought 😆.
Glad you figured out your issue 💯✌🙌
Same problem I use to have..
@@mikethatguy27 yes they do make shielded RCA cables. The stinger cables are pretty good
@@isidrosevier1125 awesome, appreciate that!💯✌🙌
Think you just might have fixed my problem thank you 👍🏽
I run a toggle switch so i can just turn it off and on as needed.ive heard shouldn't and dont need a relay as it pulls more amperage.there's a video on youtube about it.
I never use the ignition or key to turn my system on and off, just like you said I always use toggle switches. It's the only way to go. Also that way the stereo is mostly separated from the vehicles electronics, makes for a much cleaner sound with no issues
Thats a good idea! I know some head units with more functons than other tell you to run a small chassis ground and connect thru the ground of the wiring harness when running external amp either way the relay idea makes sense great video jp!
This man full of knowledge
What would be the remedy for a home theater system that has a subwoofer "turn-off-pop"? Thanks!
I have the same thing with my system when I start the car the subwoofer is thumping after like I give it like two starts
I’ve never had the problem but seen it before. Maybe a mini distribution bar leading remotes to the amps instead of piggy backing might remedy.
I always thought it was grounding signal noise especially if your sub amp is hooked up using high level inputs.
my current situation
@@ceavalencia4767 I have a soft bump when I turn on ignition sometimes. If my bass knob is up high it thumps louder.
@@adaboy4z im not using knob currently..I have hard bump when turning on and off...amp has cut out at high volumes and amp gets very hot
@@ceavalencia4767 turn that gain down
Thanks I thought my eq master volume was turned up to high ? one more question I does having the remote wire cca wire instead of ofc wire make a difference
If multiple pieces of your equipment/hardware has GTO/remote wire TO technology and you're not using it through the initial source only that is your problem. You also can not splice the wire circuit you use for the remote TO you must either tap into it or use connectors to ensure the vehicles software system reads it as a single circuit on any vehicle with an OBD2 or that has security or other systems run through/with the head unit.
Having this issue now wasn't happening before..had four amps before... remote wire was on distribution block and amps were grounded to frame and it didnt do it...now I have 3 amps but didn't use the fuse block..sorta jumped from on amp to the next..plus the amp grounds are on back battery condition one of these be the issue
I remember when we had power boosters they were small amps. They did that then Rockford Fosgate developed the MOSFET.
How old are you? Lol jk
@@wayneslain9444 😆.. Is my age showing? 1975 is the year I was born. 👴😄
Bro!! We had the powerbooster with the Sparkomatic radio, and 6×9's!!😂Good ol days!!
@@OnealEddie 6" square by 2" one button on it.. Nothing else.
If you had a Rockford Fosgate Punch 45 and two punch 10in woofers you were boss.
😁👍 Agreed!
Young Bumps don't know the struggle.
@@MadDragon75 Bruh!! That Punch 45 was 🔥 back then!! Lol!!😆
Many times this has to do with your headunit. There is a way to stop it completely, and what he is talking about is to shut off your amps before you turn off your signal source. hiring head units usually don't do this but a lot of the cheap Stereos on the market like those Android head units for $45 do this.
this is kind of the reason why engineering does matter and the products that you purchase sure may sound great but it's the little things that really do matter
Not in my case, I tried with another unit but isn’t the radio
So then what’s the solution
What makes it do it when you put it in gear
Mine makes both woofers push one in and one out simultaneously when I turn my key on but not when I turn it off.
It sounds like theyre out of phase
Do people still run noise filters for alternator whine?
Sooo how do you stop engine noise from entering your system. When running multiple amplifiers. Example more than 3......🤔🤔
You can try grounding your RCA's
If you are using more than one grounding location this will happen you can fix it by either putting them all on the same ground or using a ground loop isolator which are pretty cheap.
So I recently bought a JP MM1004 and installed it. Amp is great, only issue is when I turn off car it pops. I'm going to try the relay BUT if it don't work. I'm going to pull stereo and bypass remote wire. Run everything off of the ACC wire (key on wire for stereo, usually red wire). If the key is on everything powers up together instead of going through stereo for ON/OFF operation
Did you figure it out? I just received my MM1005 and it has turn off pop. I already tried the acc method and it did not fix it. Gonna be pissed if it's this amp. It did not do this with any other amps I had wired the same way. It seems the amp is turning off after the head unit.
@@Jaydogg209 it's the amp. I "fixed" my issue but my gf says it will randomly make a powering down noise and soft pop.
@@212Tan how did you "fix" it?
@@Jaydogg209 don't use remote out wire from stereo to amp. Use the accessory wire to both. If I used the stereo remote out wire the head unit would turn off first and cause a pop sound. Now, wired to factory accessory wire they turn off together. Metra makes a timer relay as well. That may help you in your situation. Idk
@212Tan if I can't manage to fix the problem, will it damage the capacitors powering off like that with the pop? I already wired it to my acc wire and didn't fix it, Doesn't that delay timer just delay the pop and not stop it?
Thanks. Would be awesome having an example built, sorry I am beginner that just made with the help of a friend my first car audio installation.
A simple thing like that wire splice causes the system a the slightest delay to read it (millionths of a second) but it is a delay and you have it coming on you just don't have the POP to make you aware of it. Hopefully that explains it in lay or non electricianal term's so it's easy to understand for all. My biggest recommendation to any and all is use the connectors people. This is a huge investment to most, it's your vehicle and sound you've paid money big or small but it's yours so ensure you take care of it and you can't go wrong doing it that way.
I removed my custom bass knob and it stopped my sub from popping
We need a jp 6k
on zee way =D
What if my subs make a popping and thumping noise when I start the truck. Not when I turn it off?
I have this issue with the bass knob that came with my incriminator 20.1 upon occasion when it's moved
Which wire goes into relay 85?
Please explain why my Bluetooth speaker suddenly turned off while it was plying with loud pop sound
What makes it do the loud popping when you put it in it slams and sounds really good but then when you put it in gear it stops and makes the thud noise
I'm running a Rockville 8K to 2 15in Skar VFX-15s. When I turn on my head unit the amp comes on and I hear very soft sound coming from the subs. I have adjusted everything to the max and back to mid to nothing. Nothing works. What is the issue?
Relay...? If its a potensial problem, why not include it in your shop... which one would you recommend getting, say if i got 2 amps? Amazon link?
A lot of these newer amps have a soft start which prevents that thump from happening.
I have the delay start on mines.. but. Keeps popping :) both on start and shut off.
@THELIFEOFPRICE your description says when you turn off your system you also said when you turn off your system at the start of the video and again at the end of the video but you only explained when you turn on your system what about turning off your system ???
some people it's when they turn on, some when they turn off...
@@your_doctor_and_plumber for me it's both.. but can be random and also how loud the noise/popping is. When I turn off it it takes a couple of seconds for the pop since the amps and high low adapter has delayed turn on/off
I just turned my gain down some....and it solved the problem.....I had a huge thump at shutdown.....I thought it was gunna blow something up.....so much so that I searched it.....and backing off the gain problem solved
My problem is, I’ll turn my truck on and not even 5seconds later my subs go blank. I get nothing. The work for 3-5 seconds then go out! Any ideas
Now I had this when I run a high level input off the stock stereo. I run sundown on the lower class amp from them. The only way it would stop with that is turn down the bass level. Never had problems after that
Hey JP do you sell those jackets the one you have on.
What is that mid speaker right there? It looks nice
I want to get a second avatar 15, but the first one (current)I definitely pushed it to see where the critical fail point is at on them, coil is a little scratchy I also figured out my alternator is dying so it’s possible it clipped at one of those drops. How do I go about getting this one swapped and order a second one(building ported box for them)
what happen when we ignore this problem? sub or amp can damage? because my system have samething this issue, but for me his doesn't get any annoying or problem for me lol just pop sound when my amp turned off. just ignore, can damage my system my gear?
My subs when they’re bumping, sometimes it just kicks a little more than what it’s kicking for like 1 second, what does that mean ?
I installed a bus bar and run my main Power supply to the bus bar then I ran 2 wires to both of my amps that away both amps turned off at the same time I do not have any popping
My system doesn't do that. But what it does do after I turn it off is that it's still playing at a very low volume, 1 or 2 seconds, and then it's off. It's a small issue that I'd like to solve.
1 is a bad ground i had this problem with a couple of my cars
And or a bad rca
On that issue yes your rite just run a relay pin 30 to the amp 84 your remote turn on 87 12 volts and 85 ground
What is the voltage that you will need?? My amp has 2 35 amp fuse do I need 80 ?
Do you have the ampre audio 9.0ks JP and talk to sundown to make back the zv4 12 because I blow it up so talk to sundown about that
Which tweeters and how many would be safe to run on the JP234 at what ohm load?
What kinda of relay try looking on Google
I pull the key out my girls car !! And the sub vibrates 30 seconds after !! Why and how to fix
Most people have this problem when using a toggle switch lol running off a main power and all they have to do is remember to turn toggle switch off before u turn car off
I have the volume at 5 really low and out of nowhere lots of bass goes on. Any1 help
Hi, can you tell me why my subwoofer makes a BOOM every time the car engine starts. How can I get rid of this problem? Thanks and congratulations for your videos.
J P WAS SO INFORMATIVE ALL I CAN SAY IS, WOW
You don't need to use a relay, the remote turn on doesn't use enough amperage to require a relay, even if you're using 6 amplifiers. I suggest turning the volume all the way down before you turn your system off. Also use a toggle switch to turn your system/amplifiers on and off with instead of the ignition
Use a dSP it has a automatic remote cutoff switch the prv model
what if the pop happens when you turn the car on
My sub randomly makes a thump randomly when driving with no music playing with the radio on
I have a real good question why is my highs amp making a whining noise when I accelerate my car without any sound coming through it
But my bass amp dont do it
Alt whine...u need a better ground most likely
Bad connector bro...make sure your ground are sand if u running big power doin from the chasis....make sure bass amp has his omw ground sand and tie....
Bad ground. Ground amp(s) to the frame!
whining usually comes from having your power and RCA cables too close. The magnetic field around the power wire disrupts the signal in the RCA cable. You should never run RCA and power wires next to each other. If you are running the wires to the back of the car, run the power and RCA cables down opposite sides of the car. A sure fire way to know if this is your problem is when the whining noise frequency increases as the car revs go up (alternator spinning faster).
Alot of the thump is from a ANC mic In the vehicle that hasn't been bypassed or unplugged
... what is a relay?
My system Phillips is I turn the ignition on my lady jumps out of her seat every time LOL
Ive grounded my rcas and still does it im at a loss
I have a Sundown Audio SFB-3000D. Since cold weather (below 45f) when I start my vehicle in the morning the amp fan is very fast and loud for about 2 minutes then it goes silent. It only does this when its cold outside. Anyone have this problem?
If it is just a failing fan then no big deal. I can replace it myself. What I'm afraid of is that there is a problem beyond just the fan since it only does this for a couple of minutes then quits and only in the morning when its cold outside. The fan literally sounds like its going to fly apart.
The amp is fairly new and bought from D4S. Is running at 2ohm on good electrical.
I wouldn't worry my taramps did the same thing when the weather got cold
It happens alot in older Ford vehicles. Pac makes a pice to remedy this. Peace
whats it called though..
@@sixpath pac tr4
Hope this works for me. I’ll let you know
Lovin' that jacket!
i gotta say these vids are super informative,Thanx
Ok but what if you have 1 amp
Great video thanks JP. I don't have this problem but I've known people who do!
Question: say you have a 4 channel amp that you are trying to wire for a car with 4 door speakers and 2 dash tweeters.
If I connect 1 tweeter and 1 door speaker to the same channel will they be getting half the watts each?
So door speakers is 50watts, tweeter is 50 watts. And a single channel on the amplifier outputs 100watts.
If I put the tweeter and speeker both on the same channel will they get 50watt each Or both get 100watt?
You’d want a cross over for the tweeters so it’s not getting the full range of frequency and mess your tweeters up. The wattage is all determined by the ohms on that channel.
Also when you do put that crossover in it will not drop your ohm load down it will keep it at 4 ohm that's if your door speaker and your tweeter is a 4ohm speaker and tweeter. But definitely recommend a crossover.
Thank you both for your input.
I'm still unsure how many watts my speaker and tweeter will be getting tho.
My speaker is rated 50watt rms and my tweeter is also 50watt rms.
When I put them both on the same 100watt channel, how many watts will be going to each of them?
Will they both get the full 100watts from that channel or will they each get half (50watts) from the channel
@@RandoManFPV
Use bass blockers on the tweeters and then hook them to the same channel,,your watts depends on your Ohms ,and you should be in that area ,,and it will sound good ..
Good luck !
Never had this problem but i have a brother who was a car audio installer at the best shop in my area but i have heard it in back yard installs always wondered what it was now i know lol
Hey JP here’s my question for you. Every time I upgrade my system and go bigger, louder, better. I’m always satisfied at first but every time (at least 15 dif setups, since my first system at 14yr old- 2 years before I could even drive) at some point not long after break in, I always want more and feel it isn’t loud anymore. Does this ever stop? Is it ever loud enough?
What do you meter?
You may be a BASSHEAD!!!!
Never metered. Nothing extreme yet I have to many kids I have to keep room for. Just wondering if anyone else has this problem and if they ever are satisfied
@@wetdookie3808 When I 1st started out I was looking to do 150 D b's now I'm looking to do 160's. And then after watching 5 star car stereo on RUclips II try to make sure I have great wire management and a good soundstage so I don't think it ever really ends
That's entirely subjective but the short answer is, no. There's always something better and we always want it. It's literally an addiction. Bass or audio is just your drug of choice.
That’s a ground issue. I had that same problem, my head unit wasn’t grounded properly
Turn the power off before u turn off the vehicle. Should solve the problem
Nice video
Jp... Rule the game 🤝👌✊
Remote turn off modules
Wait this guy just said that the remote wire being daisy chained makes that sound? Lol smdh that is definitely a grounding or signal noise definitely not anything to do with the remote wire or how it’s ran.... Smdh guy just proved my point right here lol see ppl guy knows nothing! He just gathers info from boxes and says it... no actual experience because he has everyone else do the installs for him! Must be nice to be that rich lol
You're a textbook hater. Who cares if he has money and pays others to install his huge complex system? I know I probably would if I had the money.
Relays are used to turn things on/off reliably at the same time. I believe some head units send out a pulse of voltage as they power off.. so if your amp is still on when that happens (by not using a relay), the pulse is gonna travel down the RCAs and to the amp. Of course there are other possible reasons for a "pop" sound but that is a common one.
I put my volume down..I turn off my stereo before my car...it fix it for me n my 3 cars...probably won't work for everyone..
💯
Mahnet sepiker nya besar banget anjay🖒
Can u put a quick video of how to put the relay on?
We put a bass remote in and it cleaned it right up.
@@redmachine914can you elaborate on that please