Thanks alot, this is a great video to start going into fusion 360 with laser cutting in mind, as I've wanted that for some time now ;) Keep updating my Feed :)
Thanks a million for the post extension! So much relief after a couple days working on a pen plotter project and the normal grbl extension for Fusion not allowing me M3 and M5 commands for servo control. MIgrbl plus a slightly modified gcode works like a charm!
No matter what way you look at it Fusion 360 has to be the most amazing piece of software ever produced? It never ceases to amaze me just what it can do! All it needs to do is learn to cook and it would be perfect!
i dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Israel Elon I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I used excel to delete the extruder commands. Reverse the z movement. And use the different speeds between extrude and travel to determine where to turn the laser on and off. I used VBA in excel to do it so can convert and gcode in seconds. Just neex to make sure all layers are the same speed and set the travel speed to at least double the extrude speed to make to laser point clear.
Hey mate. I just added the laser ti my hypercube. I used a combination of inkscape, fusion360, slicer and excel to create a cct board. Came out perfect. Inkscape to create an outline of the tracks. Fusion ti create the 3d model. Slicer to out put a standard gcode file with 3 layers. Excell to covert to laser gcode.
Fusion 360 I believe has a holding tab option. Add a small tab where the laser does not cut a very small section of the outline at each corner and it will stay put. Then when its finished you snap it out!
I've found that the warping of acrylic usually happens if the laser is cutting too slowly and the acrylic is getting too hot. Turn down the power, or turn up the speed and do more passes. :)
I have a question about the Milling attachment you're planning for the hypercube. What materials will/is it being designed with in mind? I know PCBs but are you including wood in that? and metal?
Love these videos, wish you could explain how you made that post configuration file. I tried using your hyperion cps file on my wanhao i3, and although it is running marlin firmware, it was a bit glitchy and I had to manually edit gcode to turn on laser on some parts. Thanks for contributing!
blue painters tape on the underside of the acrylic, and on the bed itself, superglue between the two. Will hold everything in place and then simply pull off when finished, used all the time in CNC machining.
I wonder if you could soak the corrugated board in an epoxy resin. Or maybe cut card stock and soak it in resin. Might be a really fun experiment... But this is a really informative video. Thank you!
That's a pretty impressive lasermodule! After I watched your video(s) today, I went out and bought a 3mm acrylic (dark grey) to test it with my 10 W laser module. But I didn't have the same success. Even after 20 passes at 2mm/s, no cutting through. When I just hit the "fire" button, it takes 11-12 seconds to shoot through the material. The claimed 10 Watts seem legit, because the over all amp draw increases by 2.3 Amps when the laser is in cutting mode... Like this it doesn't make great sense to me, to transfer my laser module into my 3D Printer body, although of course it would've been nice to keep up with the focus via the z-axis... Regards from Switzerland
I wish you had've posted this a few months back :P I made the same mistake the first time. I then undersized the hole and when I tried to force the snap in switch in, well.... yeah RIP attempt #1. But my HyperCube is now functionally complete thanks to the laser additions :D Thanks again for all your continued work on the HyperCube, all of your effort and hard work has given many people an excellent 3D printer that is reliable and accurate. Mine is to the stage where I can just PRINT stuff, like, no stuffing around, no tongues at the right angle, just slice and print
I'm having trouble with the Post processor. I don't know how to select the hypercube.cps file in for generating the g-code. When clicking on the postprocessor menu I get a different menu than the video shows. But I get a exstensive list of post processing modes though. Which is best to choose for an 2500 W Banggood laser cutter? Does anyone got an idea?
nice work i have tried to use cps file you have attached but when post processing with fusion i got an error telling me that my post processor needs to be re-certified? could you help me?
Having both a 3d printer and a laser is certainly useful. I've often designed a simple 3d printed part, looked at the build time, and turned it into a laser cut part instead as that can be 100x faster. (I have an 80W laser).
My main problem with both is that cheap low power lasers, and 3D printers are not usable for any metal. With most 3 printers you are also limited to rather weak plastics (like PLA ABS or PETG). A CNC milling machine will do all plastics and metal, and 3D forms are not a problems. If you have a fourth axis you can also do undercuts without problem. It also is 100 times as fast as a 3d printer, and you have no problems with layer separation, warping, or any of that nonsense.
I was wondering if you still have your old prusa i3 software and if so, could you please send me it. I bought a prusa i3 about 2-4 years ago and the software I downloaded from the website didn’t match up with my model so I put it on hold. But now I finally have the time to start up my printer and I could not find the right software anywhere for my printer besides finding your videos with my exact same model. Thank you so much for your time, -Beau
Adding my vote for adding tabs. Could simply edit final pass to add tabs, so they are already half way through. Also isn't there a multiple passes option so you don't need to duplicate the operation? I know this works for CNC but not sure on laser. Nice work keep it up!!
Great video. Thanks for posting. Quick tip. Instead, of selecting all the inside loops you can select the face and then use the "loops - Inside loops" option. I hope this helps.
On the part where you select all of the small shapes to cut on the first pass, you could do a window select rather than clicking on each shape. If you drag from left to right, it selects all geometry completely within the window. From Right to left, it selects all geometry which has any part within your window. So, if you drag a small window only containing the small shapes from left to right, you could get most of them in one click and drag.
What program are you using for sending g code? It sounds like you are saying proto face and closed captioning confirms this, but I can't find any program named such.
It would be just great if you would do a complete hypercube build with all the final parts (and maybe a Titan Aero) but with 30×30 aluminum and 2 z axis motors. What do you think? Admire you badly, Guy
Just bought my first laser! Trying to model in Fusion 360 and upload in LaserGRBL. When I do this the laser leaves corner material as it decelerates. Anyone know how to fix this? I tested a cut only using GRBL software for a random image and did not have this problem. Please Help!!
Awesome video!! Also your .cps file works great with the Snapmaker laser module. The snapmaker.cps only supports cnc. The gcode from the Snapmaker program is just crap.
Maybe you should do a video talking about the problems with exaggerated claims in the description of chinese diode laser modules. Some vendors are selling 2.5W lasers labeled upto 7.5W, others are selling 1W lasers as 2.5W, many sell 1.5W lasers labeled 3.5W and i guess lots of people have problems with laser modules not matching their expectations. In some cases reading carefully can help, in other cases it is pure guesswork if one isn't familiar with technical details that can be identified.
Excellent video, thanks! I'm guessing this is no longer accessible, right? Is the CAM extension the same as Manufacturing? If it is, $125/month is a little steep for the hobbyist.
When I do that same kind of thing, my cardboard is visibly burning during the cut, and leaves charred cardboard all over my fingers afterwards. On acrylic, if I don't remove the paper first, I get a burnt piece of paper lying in the cut. I'm using the laser you link to. What do you think the problem is? Also, are you just running outside all the time? I built a cardboard hood for mine, and it still stank up my apartment!
Double check you have focused the laser beam as tight as possible, and have the laser at that exact distance from the cardboard when cutting. Yes, whilst cutting this cardboard my room was filling with smoke. I had a window open but still took a couple hours to vent the smell. If you're cutting acrylic then definitely do it outside - that smell is toxic!
The safety goggles linked in your original post were very bad. So many ripples in the plastic that I can hardly tell when the beam is focused! I'll try again.
a question? this is now with 2.5W laser would not it be better with something more power? for example with 3.5W? friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
I have seen a 15W module on ebay for about 280 usd. The problem I see is that you are only about 100 usd from a k40 at that point with more power and a larger bed.
ok thank you for reply! 15W is too much! (I think!) What a pity you did not buy a 3.5W laser. that seems to me more interesting! Kind regards from the Netherlands again. Rob.
I followed the tutorial, but when I try to cut some shape, my printer always leaves 5mm uncut and always at the beginning. What can be the issue? I am using anet a8 with ramps and marlin.
did you find a solution? I have the same problem. The shapes are always connected to the board by a few mm of material but when I simulate in fusion 360, it looks like its supposed to cut all the way but it doesnt
@@michal_king478 I put pause for a half a second or so after it starts to cut. Laser is on, then half a second delay. You need to do this every time the laser is stopped and then turned back on. I modified some file in fusion 360, so it add this command automaticaly. I think this is because it turn on laser a bit late, at the time the laser is on, it already moved a bit. This was over year ago, cant remember all the details. Sorry english is not my native language, its hard for me to explain. Hope I helped.
Hi I downloaded your HyperCube.cps file and edited it to use M3 and M5 for my laser cutter, in most cases it worked, but some time it turned the laser on before going to the start of the first cut,and some times it does not turn the laser off between cuts. eg M117 Starting... M5 ;Laser/Fan OFF G21 ;Metric Values G17 ;Plane XY G90 ;Absolute Positioning G92 X0 Y0 Z0 ;Set XYZ Positions G0 F1000 G0 Z2 ;Position Z M400 M117 AUSTRALIA G1 X-32.176 Y-52.444 Z2 M3 S1000 G1 X-30.055 F250 G1 X-31.272 Y-48.98 G1 X-32.464 Y-52.444 G1 X-32.176 M5 above is what I want , below is what I get M400 M117 AUSTRALIA M3 S1000 G1 X-32.176 Y-52.444 Z2 G1 X-30.055 F250 G1 X-31.272 Y-48.98 G1 X-32.464 Y-52.444 G1 X-32.176 M5
Hello Friend. I like your video. I need help. I have a 3d printer that I set up following some videos on the internet. The printer from time to time stopped connecting to the computer via the pronterface and the repeater. All the ports are configured normally on the computer and the arduino, already I switched of computer but nevertheless does not work more, what could have happened? Help me please. SOS
just another reason to use a fully enclosed machine. noxious gasses can be controlled and evacuated as well as adding important eye protection from the laser.
Good idea, would probably increase durability of laser as well, as it would be cooling while the laser is traveling over to the next cutting line. As opposed to just turning on and off with the laser.
I know I'm really immature for thinking this and then going as far to post it as well... But I have to... One of the file names is I noticed when loading your .stl file is... Doggy.stl... XD
My PC: Ryzen R7 1700 @ 3.7GHz (OC), 16GB DDR4-3200 CL14 RAM, Asrock b350 MB, Samsung 960 EVO 512GB NVME SSD, RX570 GPU... I think the application is either un-optimized, or the whole 'in-the-cloud' application lock is slowing it down.
crap software . with RDworks, I just tell it to cut the inside first. takes me 5 seconds. I don't know what the developers are thinking when they create this so counter intuitive pieces of garbage. you would do it faster by hand, then using CNC technology
Thanks alot, this is a great video to start going into fusion 360 with laser cutting in mind, as I've wanted that for some time now ;)
Keep updating my Feed :)
Thanks a million for the post extension! So much relief after a couple days working on a pen plotter project and the normal grbl extension for Fusion not allowing me M3 and M5 commands for servo control. MIgrbl plus a slightly modified gcode works like a charm!
I did not know about the create base feature option. Very handy tip.
No matter what way you look at it Fusion 360 has to be the most amazing piece of software ever produced? It never ceases to amaze me just what it can do! All it needs to do is learn to cook and it would be perfect!
Great addition. Happy to support your continued efforts on the hypercube. The fact that I'm now learning Fusion 360 is a bonus.
i dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Valentino Ben instablaster :)
@Israel Elon I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Israel Elon it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Valentino Ben happy to help :)
Subscribed before you even ran the logo - clear voice, concise, no hyperbole = sold
WOW - that was a pleasure to watch, well done :) Love what you are doing! Keep it up.Iam now your channel subscriber
Excellent stuff!!
Thank you so much for the tutorial.
I wan to know about how to set-up .cps file for Ender 3 for laser cutting?
I used excel to delete the extruder commands. Reverse the z movement. And use the different speeds between extrude and travel to determine where to turn the laser on and off. I used VBA in excel to do it so can convert and gcode in seconds. Just neex to make sure all layers are the same speed and set the travel speed to at least double the extrude speed to make to laser point clear.
Hey mate. I just added the laser ti my hypercube. I used a combination of inkscape, fusion360, slicer and excel to create a cct board. Came out perfect. Inkscape to create an outline of the tracks. Fusion ti create the 3d model. Slicer to out put a standard gcode file with 3 layers. Excell to covert to laser gcode.
Thanks for the good vid. Do you have any idea how to get fusion 360 to simply etch an area rather than just etch the line around the area? Thanks!
Fusion 360 I believe has a holding tab option. Add a small tab where the laser does not cut a very small section of the outline at each corner and it will stay put. Then when its finished you snap it out!
Again a great video, thanks.
I've found that the warping of acrylic usually happens if the laser is cutting too slowly and the acrylic is getting too hot. Turn down the power, or turn up the speed and do more passes. :)
I have a question about the Milling attachment you're planning for the hypercube. What materials will/is it being designed with in mind? I know PCBs but are you including wood in that? and metal?
Love these videos, wish you could explain how you made that post configuration file. I tried using your hyperion cps file on my wanhao i3, and although it is running marlin firmware, it was a bit glitchy and I had to manually edit gcode to turn on laser on some parts. Thanks for contributing!
blue painters tape on the underside of the acrylic, and on the bed itself, superglue between the two. Will hold everything in place and then simply pull off when finished, used all the time in CNC machining.
Hello, very nice tutorial. Is it just an impression or did you definitively engrave your aluminium bed during that test ?
Do you think the 5w laser from banggood is worth it or is the 2.5w enough ?
I wonder if you could soak the corrugated board in an epoxy resin. Or maybe cut card stock and soak it in resin. Might be a really fun experiment... But this is a really informative video. Thank you!
That's a pretty impressive lasermodule!
After I watched your video(s) today, I went out and bought a 3mm acrylic (dark grey) to test it with my 10 W laser module.
But I didn't have the same success. Even after 20 passes at 2mm/s, no cutting through. When I just hit the "fire" button, it takes 11-12 seconds to shoot through the material.
The claimed 10 Watts seem legit, because the over all amp draw increases by 2.3 Amps when the laser is in cutting mode...
Like this it doesn't make great sense to me, to transfer my laser module into my 3D Printer body, although of course it would've been nice to keep up with the focus via the z-axis...
Regards from Switzerland
you have to leave the paper on to cut through, might be the problem
Nice fusion work
hy
a great video, thump up
a question. why i can't do the conversion from stl to objekt.
a message is comming, too many facets. PLZ HELP :-)
thx
I wish you had've posted this a few months back :P I made the same mistake the first time. I then undersized the hole and when I tried to force the snap in switch in, well.... yeah RIP attempt #1. But my HyperCube is now functionally complete thanks to the laser additions :D
Thanks again for all your continued work on the HyperCube, all of your effort and hard work has given many people an excellent 3D printer that is reliable and accurate. Mine is to the stage where I can just PRINT stuff, like, no stuffing around, no tongues at the right angle, just slice and print
Well done! It's nice to have a 3D printer that 'just works', especially after years of tweaking my previous printer.
For the outer perimeter, would it not have been quicker to duplicate the inner again and edit the selected mesh?
Good Morning,
Do you have actually this vector in DXF so I can make a test with my machine:
I'm having trouble with the Post processor. I don't know how to select the hypercube.cps file in for generating the g-code. When clicking on the postprocessor menu I get a different menu than the video shows. But I get a exstensive list of post processing modes though. Which is best to choose for an 2500 W Banggood laser cutter? Does anyone got an idea?
how do you edit those yellow lines if a few of them need to be corrected?
nice work i have tried to use cps file you have attached but when post processing with fusion i got an error telling me that my post processor needs to be re-certified? could you help me?
8:00 Wouldn't it be easier to select the whole thing and then unselect the outer area?
Having both a 3d printer and a laser is certainly useful. I've often designed a simple 3d printed part, looked at the build time, and turned it into a laser cut part instead as that can be 100x faster. (I have an 80W laser).
My main problem with both is that cheap low power lasers, and 3D printers are not usable for any metal. With most 3 printers you are also limited to rather weak plastics (like PLA ABS or PETG).
A CNC milling machine will do all plastics and metal, and 3D forms are not a problems. If you have a fourth axis you can also do undercuts without problem. It also is 100 times as fast as a 3d printer, and you have no problems with layer separation, warping, or any of that nonsense.
Would you print the 3D printer parts for me in the UK so I could build a printer as well, I will pay for the part and postage.
@Tech2C I don't know if diy electronics are your thing but is it possible to mill a PCB with a small milling motor and pcb milling bit on hypercube?
It will come, soon(tm)
awesome!
I was wondering if you still have your old prusa i3 software and if so, could you please send me it. I bought a prusa i3 about 2-4 years ago and the software I downloaded from the website didn’t match up with my model so I put it on hold. But now I finally have the time to start up my printer and I could not find the right software anywhere for my printer besides finding your videos with my exact same model.
Thank you so much for your time, -Beau
Adding my vote for adding tabs. Could simply edit final pass to add tabs, so they are already half way through. Also isn't there a multiple passes option so you don't need to duplicate the operation? I know this works for CNC but not sure on laser. Nice work keep it up!!
Is the .stl file for this quad on thinkaverse or available elsewhere?
I gave up on this blue laser being able to engrave nicely so I went out and bought a K40 CO2 laser engraver and cutter.
were you able to use fusion to cut with the K40? i've tried inkscape but i like fusion more. is it possible to design in fusion and export to k40?
Great video. Thanks for posting. Quick tip. Instead, of selecting all the inside loops you can select the face and then use the "loops - Inside loops" option. I hope this helps.
I tried this, it didn't work for me. That would have made it so much easier.
Could you have selected everything and then deselected the outside?
You could add some tabs to stop the problem. I think 360 has an option for doing that for CNC cutting.
That's a good idea. I did see that option but haven't tried it yet.
Just test fitted the x axis on my HC still a long way to go but I swear I'll have a laser running by the end of Jan next year!
Tick tock, end of Jan next year is fast approaching...
Is it possible to cut 3mm carbon fiber sheet using the laser?
This Tutorial Is Brilliant, what Profile wil work for a Creality Cr10S 3d printer?
hi...have you find what to put in post processor for a creality?
Excelent!
What firmware were you using on your laser machine
What firmeware are u using?
Is it possible to cut a sheet of carbon fibre?
On the part where you select all of the small shapes to cut on the first pass, you could do a window select rather than clicking on each shape. If you drag from left to right, it selects all geometry completely within the window. From Right to left, it selects all geometry which has any part within your window. So, if you drag a small window only containing the small shapes from left to right, you could get most of them in one click and drag.
Nope, when I click and try to drag a box, nothing happens. No box is drawn. It seems I can only click a shape that gets highlighted by the mouse-over.
Tech2C interesting. Maybe it doesn't work in the mode you were using. I've only used modeling mode but assumed it would work the same.
How about a drag knife attachment?
What program are you using for sending g code? It sounds like you are saying proto face and closed captioning confirms this, but I can't find any program named such.
pronterface aka printrun. It is hosted on github github.com/kliment/Printrun
How mm leather i could cut with a 2500 laser diode? Super video’s man
It would be just great if you would do a complete hypercube build with all the final parts (and maybe a Titan Aero) but with 30×30 aluminum and 2 z axis motors. What do you think?
Admire you badly,
Guy
Just bought my first laser! Trying to model in Fusion 360 and upload in LaserGRBL. When I do this the laser leaves corner material as it decelerates. Anyone know how to fix this? I tested a cut only using GRBL software for a random image and did not have this problem.
Please Help!!
Would like to retrofit my Prusa so it works with a laser.
Hum.... food for thought there!
How about you soak that cardboard in epoxy resin see what happens.
Great stuff!
Thumbs up from The Looking Glass
cooler than laser sharks.
But will the cardboard quadcopter fly?
mmm how about carbon fiber?
will it make the cut?
Awesome video!! Also your .cps file works great with the Snapmaker laser module. The snapmaker.cps only supports cnc. The gcode from the Snapmaker program is just crap.
Maybe you should do a video talking about the problems with exaggerated claims in the description of chinese diode laser modules. Some vendors are selling 2.5W lasers labeled upto 7.5W, others are selling 1W lasers as 2.5W, many sell 1.5W lasers labeled 3.5W and i guess lots of people have problems with laser modules not matching their expectations. In some cases reading carefully can help, in other cases it is pure guesswork if one isn't familiar with technical details that can be identified.
Go on. You know you want to fly the cardboard frame
could dope it with varnish: might be rigid enough
vinyl cutter next
Excelent
Would you print the 3D printer parts for me in the UK so I could build a printer as well, I will pay for the part and postage.
Excellent video, thanks! I'm guessing this is no longer accessible, right? Is the CAM extension the same as Manufacturing? If it is, $125/month is a little steep for the hobbyist.
There is a personal license for hobbyists which is free.
@@Tech2C I'll investigate further, thanks :)
When I do that same kind of thing, my cardboard is visibly burning during the cut, and leaves charred cardboard all over my fingers afterwards. On acrylic, if I don't remove the paper first, I get a burnt piece of paper lying in the cut. I'm using the laser you link to. What do you think the problem is?
Also, are you just running outside all the time? I built a cardboard hood for mine, and it still stank up my apartment!
Double check you have focused the laser beam as tight as possible, and have the laser at that exact distance from the cardboard when cutting. Yes, whilst cutting this cardboard my room was filling with smoke. I had a window open but still took a couple hours to vent the smell. If you're cutting acrylic then definitely do it outside - that smell is toxic!
The safety goggles linked in your original post were very bad. So many ripples in the plastic that I can hardly tell when the beam is focused! I'll try again.
The outside operation could have been also a duplicate then just reselect what to cut, easer :)
Yes, correct.
wondurfull as alwes
when we gonna see ur face at vedio :))
a question?
this is now with 2.5W laser
would not it be better with something more power?
for example with 3.5W?
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
Bigger is better if you wish to cut. Engraving doesn't need as much power.
Greetings from Australia :)
I have seen a 15W module on ebay for about 280 usd. The problem I see is that you are only about 100 usd from a k40 at that point with more power and a larger bed.
ok thank you for reply!
15W is too much! (I think!)
What a pity you did not buy a 3.5W laser.
that seems to me more interesting!
Kind regards from the Netherlands again.
Rob.
nice
How to engrave pictures with fusion 360 ?!??????
I followed the tutorial, but when I try to cut some shape, my printer always leaves 5mm uncut and always at the beginning. What can be the issue? I am using anet a8 with ramps and marlin.
did you find a solution? I have the same problem. The shapes are always connected to the board by a few mm of material but when I simulate in fusion 360, it looks like its supposed to cut all the way but it doesnt
@@michal_king478 I put pause for a half a second or so after it starts to cut. Laser is on, then half a second delay. You need to do this every time the laser is stopped and then turned back on. I modified some file in fusion 360, so it add this command automaticaly. I think this is because it turn on laser a bit late, at the time the laser is on, it already moved a bit. This was over year ago, cant remember all the details. Sorry english is not my native language, its hard for me to explain. Hope I helped.
@@nenaddinic9326 thank you :D
How much this machine cost to india....
Where do you buy your acrylic plates?^^
Gumtree, or Banggood.
Tech2C thank you verry much for this quick answer :D
Hi I downloaded your HyperCube.cps file and edited it to use M3 and M5 for my laser cutter, in most cases it worked, but some time it turned the laser on before going to the start of the first cut,and some times it does not turn the laser off between cuts.
eg
M117 Starting...
M5 ;Laser/Fan OFF
G21 ;Metric Values
G17 ;Plane XY
G90 ;Absolute Positioning
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 ;Set XYZ Positions
G0 F1000
G0 Z2 ;Position Z
M400
M117 AUSTRALIA
G1 X-32.176 Y-52.444 Z2
M3 S1000
G1 X-30.055 F250
G1 X-31.272 Y-48.98
G1 X-32.464 Y-52.444
G1 X-32.176
M5
above is what I want , below is what I get
M400
M117 AUSTRALIA
M3 S1000
G1 X-32.176 Y-52.444 Z2
G1 X-30.055 F250
G1 X-31.272 Y-48.98
G1 X-32.464 Y-52.444
G1 X-32.176
M5
Hello Friend. I like your video. I need help. I have a 3d printer that I set up following some videos on the internet. The printer from time to time stopped connecting to the computer via the pronterface and the repeater. All the ports are configured normally on the computer and the arduino, already I switched of computer but nevertheless does not work more, what could have happened? Help me please. SOS
Could you power the laser cooling fan separately? It's distracting hearing it power on and off like that. 😀
Haha, you're lucky you can't smell the huge amount of smoke created whilst laser cutting - now that's distracting :P
just another reason to use a fully enclosed machine. noxious gasses can be controlled and evacuated as well as adding important eye protection from the laser.
Good idea, would probably increase durability of laser as well, as it would be cooling while the laser is traveling over to the next cutting line. As opposed to just turning on and off with the laser.
Are you the same guy who does the EEVBlog
i think leaving tabs between acrylic base and frame to cutout at the end would be a better idea then this process of cutting inside to outside.
How about double-sided tape? :D
Good idea.
8:30 thug life
I know I'm really immature for thinking this and then going as far to post it as well...
But I have to... One of the file names is I noticed when loading your .stl file is...
Doggy.stl... XD
im confused
Soak it with two part resin and fly it away.
That's the spirit!
You need a faster computer...
My PC: Ryzen R7 1700 @ 3.7GHz (OC), 16GB DDR4-3200 CL14 RAM, Asrock b350 MB, Samsung 960 EVO 512GB NVME SSD, RX570 GPU...
I think the application is either un-optimized, or the whole 'in-the-cloud' application lock is slowing it down.
this seems way too complicated
Are any hobbyists really paying $500 a year for a subscription to Fusion360?
Only stupid ones as it's free for hobbyists.
crap software .
with RDworks, I just tell it to cut the inside first. takes me 5 seconds.
I don't know what the developers are thinking when they create this so counter intuitive pieces of garbage.
you would do it faster by hand, then using CNC technology
than*