Rhodes Race Cars is the bomb! I had a roll bar replacement part I ordered from Rhodes stolen and Nick Scally replaced it for free. Evidently the thief appreciated quality when he saw it. Rhodes Race Cars is a supreme American company who is in it for all of us racers. Suggest you all consider purchases of high quality race car parts from Rhodes, because they rock!
Nice work! Keep up the coverage, I'll be following in your footsteps. :-) I'm building a '97 convertible, just found your stuff last night and you've already saved me hundreds of dollars and TONS of frustration with your Pinto manual rack conversion tips. I passed on the Rhodes cage because the halo bar seemed like it would be problematic with the vert's roof latches..The car has it's own special issues with roof and hardware clearance, but I'm hoping the ability to just put the damn top down for easy welding access makes up for the additional grief. Your video presentation is PERFECT for someone who is actually looking for knowledge..your delivery is clear and concise, and the info presented is spot-on. Thank you!
Wow man I really appreciate it! This is the only reason I make videos to hopefully give even the smallest tip that will make someone's life easier. Having the ability to put the convertible top down for fit up and welding will be huge. Pm or comment anytime you have a question that you think I might be able to help with.
@@BoostedBrothersRacing Just being honest, your stuff was very helpful..the rack & pinion swap video was a revelation, and a real time & money-saver for me. This is my first Mustang, and my first "popular" bodied race car..the number of off-the-shelf parts choices for these vehicles is just mind numbing, and the first instinct is just to throw money at everything.. The steering video sorta pulled me back down to earth and reawakened the frugal builder within, which is good..'cuz I was heading over budget real fast. Thanks again..I'll keep looking for more SN95 content from you.
Wanting a simple but strong roll cage in my new edge, nothing much just something so that if I was to loose it the cars basically all that's lost for lack of better words, wish you lived near lex ky would love to come talk to you about these cars, seem very knowledgeable and explain everything in great layman's terms for some of us
I appreciate you watching. Make sure you subscribe as I'll be trying to upload a lot more content on both of the cars come next season. If you are looking for a "simple" cage MM makes some good bolt in options. Not the lightest and might not cert but if you are looking for something that you can slap in and it might save you in a wreck on the street it might be a good option. www.maximummotorsports.com/Mustang-Roll-Bars-94-04-Hardtop-C273.aspx
You should’ve mocked up the front down bars and the roof hoop and then colored the lines where it needed ground down for the welding surface and then remocked it with a sharpie and weld it on and then raised it up and welded it to the floor and then squeezed the vertical door bar up under the back of it and bent it up and got a super tight fitment before welding the back half. Woulda been easier for the down bar welding point on the roof hoop
@@BoostedBrothersRacing no no, I mean like you should’ve welder the top of the down bar to the hoop before welding the down bar to the floor… and then tilted it up into place and welded it to the floor..
I did do that. I cut a hole in the floor first where it was to be mounted so that I could slide it in and out. I actually created a stand on the floor that would slide inside of the tube so that I would go into the same position every time. Put it in mark it grind it repeat the top hoop at this point was ratchet strapped to the ceiling so that I knew the fitment would be what I wanted. After it fit well I talked it all up and dropped it through the Holes in floor to be able to weld the top out that touches the headliner
Nice build. I think your cage "box" on the hoop might be an issue if you plan on getting the cage certified (did you end up getting the cage certified?). The 6x6 plate flat on the floor is a lot less likely to punch through the floor. The way you have it, the edges of the plates could go through the floor in the case of a roll over. Just my opinion and observation though. I used a Competition Engineering cage in my 02 Mustang and it has the continuous A pillar which as you said, is a better option to the halo the way it is.
@@VRMN8R haha I am definitely using the car for drag racing I just buck the NHRA and their norms 😅😅 if you think about it though the box is welded to the "frame rail" of the car in four areas this give a tremendous amount of support in both directions over securing to the paper thin floor pans. It is then welded to the floor pan as well. That doesn't necessarily mean that a NHRA chassis certifier would see it that way.
On the upper point where you said you had a really hard time coping, why didn't you just go off of the front part of bend instead of side of bend. That's how we did it and it's much easier
Because I'm a weirdo and I wanted the bar to sit closer to the A pillar and landing the bar in the bend gave me the fit I was looking for. I completely agree that if I angled it more so that it landed in the front it would have been much easier.
Yes, I agree, yours looks cleaner. I did ask installer about it and he stated that nhra rules PREFER, that it be welded in front of bend instead of off to the side like you did. However, your way is absolutely fine as well. So mine was fine this was because it's prefer, but your way is cleaner!
I didn't know that. That could also be the preference of the person your installer has worked with to certify cages in the past as they all have their own nit picky opinions beyond the minimum rules.
I will probably never have the cage certed. I have seen legitimate chassis builders use this technique. If you are nervous I would figure out who is going to certify the cage and ask them first that's your best bet.
Definitely pre bent and some portions are pre notched but some are not. You might also find that you will be charging some of their pre notched pieces depending how your install goes.
Rhodes Race Cars is the bomb! I had a roll bar replacement part I ordered from Rhodes stolen and Nick Scally replaced it for free. Evidently the thief appreciated quality when he saw it. Rhodes Race Cars is a supreme American company who is in it for all of us racers. Suggest you all consider purchases of high quality race car parts from Rhodes, because they rock!
Nice work! Keep up the coverage, I'll be following in your footsteps.
:-)
I'm building a '97 convertible, just found your stuff last night and you've already saved me hundreds of dollars and TONS of frustration with your Pinto manual rack conversion tips.
I passed on the Rhodes cage because the halo bar seemed like it would be problematic with the vert's roof latches..The car has it's own special issues with roof and hardware clearance, but I'm hoping the ability to just put the damn top down for easy welding access makes up for the additional grief.
Your video presentation is PERFECT for someone who is actually looking for knowledge..your delivery is clear and concise, and the info presented is spot-on.
Thank you!
Wow man I really appreciate it! This is the only reason I make videos to hopefully give even the smallest tip that will make someone's life easier. Having the ability to put the convertible top down for fit up and welding will be huge. Pm or comment anytime you have a question that you think I might be able to help with.
@@BoostedBrothersRacing
Just being honest, your stuff was very helpful..the rack & pinion swap video was a revelation, and a real time & money-saver for me.
This is my first Mustang, and my first "popular" bodied race car..the number of off-the-shelf parts choices for these vehicles is just mind numbing, and the first instinct is just to throw money at everything..
The steering video sorta pulled me back down to earth and reawakened the frugal builder within, which is good..'cuz I was heading over budget real fast.
Thanks again..I'll keep looking for more SN95 content from you.
Wanting a simple but strong roll cage in my new edge, nothing much just something so that if I was to loose it the cars basically all that's lost for lack of better words, wish you lived near lex ky would love to come talk to you about these cars, seem very knowledgeable and explain everything in great layman's terms for some of us
I appreciate you watching. Make sure you subscribe as I'll be trying to upload a lot more content on both of the cars come next season. If you are looking for a "simple" cage MM makes some good bolt in options. Not the lightest and might not cert but if you are looking for something that you can slap in and it might save you in a wreck on the street it might be a good option.
www.maximummotorsports.com/Mustang-Roll-Bars-94-04-Hardtop-C273.aspx
The through floor connectors with rocker kickers is far superior to mount the main hoop and A pillar bars. Looks good though.
You should’ve mocked up the front down bars and the roof hoop and then colored the lines where it needed ground down for the welding surface and then remocked it with a sharpie and weld it on and then raised it up and welded it to the floor and then squeezed the vertical door bar up under the back of it and bent it up and got a super tight fitment before welding the back half. Woulda been easier for the down bar welding point on the roof hoop
I wish I could attach pictures because I did a lot of mocking up and grinding to fit before I welded anything
@@BoostedBrothersRacing no no, I mean like you should’ve welder the top of the down bar to the hoop before welding the down bar to the floor… and then tilted it up into place and welded it to the floor..
I did do that. I cut a hole in the floor first where it was to be mounted so that I could slide it in and out. I actually created a stand on the floor that would slide inside of the tube so that I would go into the same position every time. Put it in mark it grind it repeat the top hoop at this point was ratchet strapped to the ceiling so that I knew the fitment would be what I wanted. After it fit well I talked it all up and dropped it through the Holes in floor to be able to weld the top out that touches the headliner
Nice build.
I think your cage "box" on the hoop might be an issue if you plan on getting the cage certified (did you end up getting the cage certified?). The 6x6 plate flat on the floor is a lot less likely to punch through the floor. The way you have it, the edges of the plates could go through the floor in the case of a roll over. Just my opinion and observation though.
I used a Competition Engineering cage in my 02 Mustang and it has the continuous A pillar which as you said, is a better option to the halo the way it is.
This method is very common in the time attack/rally space. But no do not plan on having it certified. Thanks for watching!
@@BoostedBrothersRacing very good. My goofy brain thinks everyone is going drag racing. 😁
Thank you!!
@@VRMN8R haha I am definitely using the car for drag racing I just buck the NHRA and their norms 😅😅 if you think about it though the box is welded to the "frame rail" of the car in four areas this give a tremendous amount of support in both directions over securing to the paper thin floor pans. It is then welded to the floor pan as well. That doesn't necessarily mean that a NHRA chassis certifier would see it that way.
On the upper point where you said you had a really hard time coping, why didn't you just go off of the front part of bend instead of side of bend. That's how we did it and it's much easier
Because I'm a weirdo and I wanted the bar to sit closer to the A pillar and landing the bar in the bend gave me the fit I was looking for. I completely agree that if I angled it more so that it landed in the front it would have been much easier.
Yes, I agree, yours looks cleaner. I did ask installer about it and he stated that nhra rules PREFER, that it be welded in front of bend instead of off to the side like you did. However, your way is absolutely fine as well. So mine was fine this was because it's prefer, but your way is cleaner!
I didn't know that. That could also be the preference of the person your installer has worked with to certify cages in the past as they all have their own nit picky opinions beyond the minimum rules.
@@BoostedBrothersRacing I agree with that one, as well
You are supposed to heat up & bend/hammer the 6X6 plates to match the floor contour......dont go gettin lazy on us lol
Will I be able to put my dash back in?
Just like any other cage you will have to cut slots in the dash to get it to fit back in.
Have you had the cage certed yet? did the 6"x6" box pass?
I will probably never have the cage certed. I have seen legitimate chassis builders use this technique. If you are nervous I would figure out who is going to certify the cage and ask them first that's your best bet.
@@BoostedBrothersRacing I will do that. This technique looks much easier than welding all the way to the floor!
It definitely puts the tube in a better position to weld around. You still will have to weld out all of the box edges to the floor pan as a reminder
Just ordered my 8 point Rhodes Cage and the salesman said it was pre bent and pre notched.
Definitely pre bent and some portions are pre notched but some are not. You might also find that you will be charging some of their pre notched pieces depending how your install goes.