This has been very helpful, I am running an ebike with one for experiement sake and it works pretty well surprisingly at 800 watts with two 12v 50ah lifepo4 batteries in series for a 24v 50ah setup to 48v.
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback. As a matter of fact, I am equally running a test with this boost converter on my load simulator, and I am getting similar results. However, if you don't mind me asking, where are you measuring the 800W? Is it at the input of the boost converter or at the output?
if you open the motor controller box and see the capacitors rated for 63v. you can try to set the boost converter to 60v to be safe and then you use less amps.
It will run ok but if you test it in actual way with a load it will drop voltages it will not keep up, so in your Demo you have test it with a heavy load...
Once again, a big greeting and thanks for every video. Another question related to the elec booster and the electric bike(motor) itself: Would it hurt anything for a 36v 250w elec motor if I put a 12v+ booster an 48v 350w controller on it? again: y want to encrease from 36v to 48v 250w to 350w..my motor is 36v 250w..thanks in advance
Thanks for the amazing feedback!👍👍👍 Given that your motor has a 36V maximum rating, you will likely damage it with a 48V controller. The 48V controller by itself won't be the problem. However, since you have 12 to 48 booster, you will overpower the motor itself and fry windings. I would not recommend this, but it's totally up to you.☺️ I hope this helps. The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Hi friend, No need to wonder. 😊 Please check out the videos linked below: 👇👇👇 Paralleled converter: ruclips.net/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/видео.htmlsi=Bj4EeI-12TR8jXoa Limitless Power Converter Concept: ruclips.net/video/oPhLpekQ4q4/видео.htmlsi=IebDEjy2MoYQMW8a I hope you find these videos helpful. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab
Many thanks. I think of using 12VDC for my 36VDC ebike. It helps me avoid balancing issue of 12VDC batteries. But how about the efficiency? Is it too hot at 20A 12VDC to 48VDC?
Thanks a lot for the feedback! Yeah, you are right to be concerned about efficiency losses at 12V input - under heavy loads. Personally, I wouldn't recommend using 12V - after I load tested to system at 12V. Please see the load test video below. ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.html However, if the converter is working well for you as a 12 to 36V boost converter, maybe for driving light loads, then you can think of adding an external fan to your design. I realize that adding a fan to an ebike design will be difficult, but it could be something to consider.
Hi friend, This is a great question! 👍👍 I think it is possible, but honestly, it is a bit harder to accomplish because switch-mode power supplies or converters like to operate as individuals - unless designed for a synchronous operation. Synchronous power supplies are a little more expensive because they require a slightly more complex control circuit. I will be doing a video in this regard in the near future. Stay tuned, my friend. Success wishes on your projects.
Hi ...geart video ..thank you so much for that ..i wan just ask you ..did this booster can work safty with ebike without problems can it runing small veihcule perfectly as a 48v battery ...can you help me about that ....thank you so much
Hi friend, This is a wonderful question.👍👍 Unfortunately, I have not been able to conduct a follow-on test to verify the performance of using this boost converter to drive an ebike electric motor under load. I am still working on this. Please stay tuned. I will make a video as soon as I make some progress.
You are absolutely right. Please watch the follow-on video where I showed all the power losses at different input voltage levels. 👇👇👇 ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=oNAVdJi_8sAkfuLx I hope this helps. The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Hi friend, I am trying to understand what you are trying to do. However, if I undestood correctly, you will not be able to increase the voltage rating of your motor because the windings and components were designed for a 48V power source.
Hey friend! I have a 250w bike, would a 12v 10ah inverter be enough? My charge controller shows 16ah. But the motor is 250w, I don't understand much about that.
Wonderful question. 👍👍👍 If you are sure about your battery specs, then it means that your battery should be able to provide about 120 watt hours. This means that if you plan to use a boost converter to raise the motor voltage , as shown in this video, you should really expect your battery to last less than 15 - 20 minutes. This is because you have to account for both converter and motor losses. However, to answer your question directly, I believe that you should be able to use one of these converters to drive a 250W motor with a 12V battery. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I will use a 12v 15ah deep cycle lead battery. I'm Brazilian my friend, I really like your channel, I'll send it translated so you can understand.
FIRST OF ALL AS YOU DO HAVE TWO BOOSTERS, CAN YOU CONNECT 12V ON THE FIRST BOOSTER INPUT, AND THEN CONNECT THE OUTPUT OF THE FIRST BOOSTER TO THE INPUT OF THE SECOND BOOSTER AND CHECK THE OUTPUT OF THE SECOND BOOSTER TO SEE IF IT CAN SUPLY WITHOUT FAILURES PLEASE? NOW I HAVE SEEN WHAT HAPPENED TO THE PARALLEL CONNECTION!!!! IS THERE ANY POSSIBILITY TO CONNECT THE BOOSTERS IN SERIOUS ( X)? THANK YOU
Hi friend, I love the way you think! This is one of the projects that has been on my mind, honestly. However, is your motor a DC motor or an AC motor? Unfortunately, this boost converter can only go up to 95V DC. I was able to modify the converter in one of the videos to show that it can possibly be tweaked to a high voltage. However, that is not something I would recommend for you to do.😊 Have you considered using a lower voltage motor? But that is if you are willing to spend a little bit more on the project.
Great question, but honestly, this video simply focused on the possibility of using a boost converter to drive the BLDC motor. Normally, most lithium phosphate batteries would come with a separate charging connector from the main power output connector - depending on the tupe of BMS (Battery Management System) you used. So, you may not have the need to disconnect before charging.
I need to charge a solar generator from my 12v lithium through the solar input which needs to be at least 48-150v 10A max. Is 48v the highest you can boost 12v?
Thanks a lot for watching the video and for leaving a comment. The 1800W version of these constant curre t boost converters has an output voltage range thag goes up to up to 96V. I have made lots of videos on this subject. Please see the linked videos at the end on this one. I also made a video to show what you need to do to exceed the 96V manufacture max output voltage. Take some time to watch those videos and I am sure you will find them helpful to what your question. Thanks again, please help our channel reach a wider audience by sharing our videos.
Wow!! That is definitely an interesting idea. I love it when people think outside the box!👏👏👏 However, honestly, I would not recommend you do it because, at lower voltages, you will damage the converter as a result of high current surges. But if you are feeling adventurous, you can definitely try it. But you must know that there is a big risk of damaging the converter, or your motor, or both. I hope this helps. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab 💥
I’m a little confused regarding the input potentiometer. How exactly do I measure to set the minimum voltage ? I have a amp/voltage meter to set the output, but I’m not understanding how to set the input. I will be using a 36V battery with BMS. I figure that the BMS adds some safety. I will most likely boost up to 48V. I have the 1800w dc converter version of the one in your video. Thanks !
Oh, friend!! My apologies for missing this feature in my videos. Thank you for asking this amazing question!! 👍👍👍👍 I will make a quick video this weekend to go over this. What you are referring to is the Under Voltage Protection (UVP) potentiometer. Usually, once I set it, I just leave it alone. This potentiometer basically helps you to determine the set voltage where you want your boost converter to stop the boost function. For example, if your design goal is to boost a 24V battery to 60V, but you want the boost converter to stop boosting when the battery voltage drops down to 12V...or any voltage below the initial battery voltage (24V). Then, you have to adjust the UVP to the voltage that you have chosen. The process of doing this is simple but also a bit elaborate to explain via text. Please watch out for the video this weekend. However, if you don't have any design needs to set the UVP, I will recommend that you just adjust the potentiometer close to the input connector counterclockwise until it bottoms out. You will hear audible clicks from the potentiometer when you get to this point. Please note that doing this might mean that you will lose the UVP function. Disclaimer: When it comes to this device, I am simply an unaffiliated user like you as I didn't design it. My videos are honest reviews that are not sponsored by the converter manufacturers or vendors. Please conduct your own research before implementing any of my suggestions.
I will post some pictures in the community area. I hope you can find them helpful. Essentially, whenever you see that the yellow UVP LED is illuminated, it means that the boost converter has entered the UVP mode...and your output voltage will drop down to the same level as your input voltage.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for helping me understand this better, I look forward to you presenting this feature in a future video. Though all my batteries have BMS, I wanted the extra layer of protection that the under voltage protection provides 🙂. I bought a more expensive 36V to 48V step up converter, but that device is huge compared to the 1800w dc to dc converter ! Because I will be using these for my ebike projects, space is limited. Thanks again
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I’ve seen many videos that demonstrate how to adjust the current and output, but not necessarily the UVP adjustment function which I think is especially important because the battery is generally the most expensive of all the components 😅. For someone who is a novice (myself) to these devices, I’m trying to prevent problems 😄. I’m glad that you thought that this was a important issue to address 👍
Thanks a lot for watching this video. I appreciate the comment.👍 I agree with you completely. It's as if you read my mind. If I get a good audience interaction on this video, I will make a follow-up up video to see how I can put a load on the motor.
@@ericdelevinquiere9902 why would it burn out in this scenario? It will have to be underpowered in voltage for the controller to cut out power, it thinks the battery is depleted while mean, the booster isn't capable of maintaining the voltage because it's weak. This explains why we don't use this, better of buying a bigger battery.
@@princecharles3452 Well a lot of these cheap boosters do not do a very good job in safe failing, high current could lead to some components frying, have had that experience with poorly regulated devices.
Hey im actually searching on making an e bike for not too much and I already have the bike frame but I dont have much money to spend and im searching for something that has like a 40km range do you have any idea of what I should take
Hi, Thanks for watching our videos. Since you already have a bike frame, you basically need to invest in some good Lithium phosphate battery pack, and a good ebike motor kit. I saw a kit on Amazon that goes for less than $120. You can definitely give it a try to see if it will work for you. My recommendation will be for you to check out the reviews of the product you decide to go with - this way, you don't waste your money. I will be building an ebike soon and will be making a review video for any ebike kit I end up using. If you don't have all the parts, you can keep accumulating them gradually until you have everything you need. Stay tuned. 👍😎
Hi can these step ups ruin the lithium cells or decrease the life of the battery pack or is all this false? I know that by increasing the voltage the battery discharges earlier this seems obvious but I don't know if it decreases the total life of the battery you know lithium batteries have about 1000 cycles which should last 2/3 years but with the step up I don't know if it will die to earlier ? thanks vrey much
Hi friend! Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback. I like your thoughts on this. 👍👍 However, all I can say is that as long as you are not overstressing your battery system by drawing much current than your battery system can handle, then your battery should be ok. My recommendation for your lithium ion or phosphate batteries is that you should never apply any load that will draw more than 50% of the battery's "C" rating. For example, if your battery pack has a C rating of 30Ah, I would not recommend subjecting it to loads that will draw more than 15A continuously - if you are concerned about getting the full 1000 cycles out of your battery. The great thing is that most lithium phosphate batteries can withstand a short duration surge current draw about 5X of the C rating. But this should only be for a short duration. Summary: Design your system such that your current draw does not exceed what your batteries can handle - whether you are using a boost converter or not. Thanks again for the wonderful feedback. Success wishes on your project, friend! 👍😎
Yes, it depends on what you will be doing with the motor. If you are going to use it on an ebike or electric scooter project, you will need an actual 48V battery. I am not sure if I understood your question correctly. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab💥
@@theinnovati0nlab782 i mean from 12v rated 150ah battery to dc to ac converter to make it 220v and then install power supply which is rated 48v 68ah will that work to make motor run on its peak power?
@jesongayanoche660 Ah, I see! I fully understand now. It should work, but you are going to be wasting a lot of power due to conversion losses. You will be losing power at each of these stages: - 12VDC to 120VAC - Step down to back to 48V from your power supply - lastly, power losses on your motor speed controller. But if this the only alternative you have, then it's up to you to give it a try. However, pay close attention to the power cables you will be using on the 12V to 220V inverter side... you will need huge cables to minimize inpuy power losses. I hope this helps. The Innovati0n Lab💥
Yes you can do it with no load on the motor but the voltage upconverter needs to handle the same amps as the motor can draw. That's a big motor and can probably draw 30 amps or more at full load. Try and connect that to a real scooter and ride it and that puny voltage converter will fry due to the amps being pulled.
How much time it will work , I thik after loading it will pull measure current , if it will work on 12 volt then then we can save money, because for 60 volt battery is very costly than 12 volt battery, Pls reply
Hi friend, I like the way you think and I see your point. However, it may not be the best idea to run the motor on a boosted 12V because at peak performance, there will be a surge in the drive current demanded from the 12V battery and this will drastically shorten the life of your battery. My plan is to use at least 24-36V boosted to 48V to run the dc motor. Higher voltages are encouraged because they mean less current draw from your battery system. Also, we have to account for the converter efficiency losses.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I built a ebike using a 20 inch kids bike and 2- 12v@9ah scooter batteries in series and a simple on off toggle switch, and got 13 to 15 mph consistently. Then for fun, i added a BUCk converter and was able to run the 250w/24v motor at speeds as low as 3 ish mph by reducing volts to as low as 8-9 volts and 9-10 amps.No problems - no overheating. But back to what Mahesh alluded to, a typical 60v-10ah ebike battery(specific to a particular ebike) will cost alot vs using a 12v-50ah generic lifepo4 battery. And if you run both at .5C then its battery safe and provides 300 watts either way...Only maybe need to increase wire guage for 25-30 amps and (using 1200w 40a or 1800w 50a converter) if you accelerate slow enough, in theory it should work....ie not burn up the unit. Another problem might be getting the lawn mower battery sized lifepo4 to fit somewhere on the bike..., maybe in a rear mount cargo basket? Almost anything is possible
Thanks a lot for the great question. 👍 The reality is that connecting any SMPS converter in parallel, a is difficult to do. However, it could be possible. I plan to do something like that in the future to experiment on it. Stay tuned, fiend! 👍👍
This test is without a load...What is the current under load? For electrical bikes you need a lot of torques. I doubt if this boost controller can handle that. why didn't you use the 1800 W version? Or why didn't you use 2 or 3 boost converters parallel and use diodes in the output or 5W 10K resistors to share the current in all boost converters i. parallel ? Than it might work if your battery can handle the current. Then why you don't increases the voltage? that decrease current. Greetings an engineer...
Thanks again, You are very correct. I have lots of ideas and projects but not enough time and resources to actually execute all of them....and now make and edit the videos...lol Hopefully, in the future, when The Innovati0n Lab has seen more growth, we can do multiple video projects simultaneously. Actually I made a test video that could address some your initial set of questions. This was a straight 48V drive - without the boost converter. 👇👇 ruclips.net/video/OuLokIPeGt8/видео.html I just currently completed a load test on this very ebike electric motor using the 1800W converter to drive the bike motor on my load simulator. Ever since I made this video and realized that I really needed to figure out a way to load test the ebike motor, and this has been something on my mind. The video is coming out this week. It may not be perfect, but I believe it will address some of your questions. In the future, I will also be thinking of implementing the paralleled boost converter drive. Stay tuned, and thanks a lot for all the great ideas and feedback! 👍😎
Great question! 👍👍 Unfortunately, you will not be able to accomplish a series output with these converters because this is a non-isolated flyback topology. You will need converters with total input to output isolation. I have gotten lots of questions regarding this subject. I will make a video to explain it soon. Stay tuned. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab.
Hi friend, This will be the next video coming out soon. I am currently working on it. Let me know if there is anything specific that you would like to see. 👍👍
You are absolutely right, and that is the end goal. I am pragmatic as well, but these projects take time and resources to put together. Stay tuned my friend. 😎👍
I've not seen the video, I just went here for the comments, and I don't understand why on Earth anyone would think a DC-DC converter even would be an option? Ok, I can kind of understand being in a pinch if you've got a single battery, and you need to boost the voltage as a temporary solution while you're waiting to afford buying a bigger battery pack or something like that. Ok if you would be sitting on a bunch of old lead/acid batteries and you've got a frame on a vehicle that you don't either care about the additional weight, or running on flat roads with no inclines and your motor/controller uses large amounts of current (But, any DC-DC converter that handles high current is usually very expensive). I think that about would be the only reasons to consider it. But from 12V to 36 or 48V would be ludicrous as you would probably expend twice as much energy in the conversion process, or at least in the vicinity of that. What I think many people don't realize is that you lose huge amounts of energy in the conversion process from a lower voltage to a higher one, and your battery won't last nearly as long as a proper voltage one would. As for using Lithium batteries, I would suggest looking for auctions or such from people who actually sells used ones, as these can be good for many, like hundreds of charges. These can often be found from people who refurbish ebike batteries, or just regular people who happened to come across a faulty one where something like a single broken cell (battery) might have a fabrication error, moist damaged or whatever that made the whole battery pack "go bad", or something as sinister as battery packs which uses timed aging, meaning that some companies have cartelled together to manufacture BMSes (Battery Monitoring System) which contains a micro processor that after a certain amount of charge cycles, time or both, renders the whole pack useless, and they then charge the customer to replace all batteries which they either do (at which point it may end up in either a landfill, or in the hands of someone that sells them further on platforms such as eBay or similar), or they just charge the customer for some insane amount to just short two pins to reset the timer for the next round. Fierce market to say the least. Better stay out of the way from cheap Chinese batteries too as they most likely won't keep the same standards, so they cut out some safety regulations & measures, skips endurance and hazard tests, cheap out on raw materials and sometimes even compensates with lead for the weight. Batteries are often labeled as having capacity in the 3000-3600 mAh all the way up to 10'000 mAh which is obvious bogus when you compare the prices to proper Samsung, LG cells and so on. Not to mention that the capacity for 18650 cells never exceeds 3600 mAh since they can't hold more than that. A good indication is also the weight as a proper cell weighs roughly about 50 grams each so it's usually easy to spot a fake that way. Unless the manufacturer is well-known, reputable or own by some international company that in other words are liable for any lawsuits, do, for the most part, follow laws and regulations, thus performs safety tests on their products (If they don't, you can probably sue them at least), so these products would probably be somewhat safe. Cheap batteries from some unheard obscure company I would never trust to leave charging over night. These are the ones you can see videos about spontaneously catching fire due to skipped safety measures when manufacturing these batteries, whether its the subpar materials they use, or machines that cannot keep tolerances within limits due to bad maintenance, cheap & bad parts, lazy repairmen or just poorly constructed. This is why you cannot trust them.
Thank you for responding to a video you have not watched - with a 200-page PhD. thesis. Well, here goes my own thesis....yes, I don't only make videos, I can write as well... These videos are nothing but a weekend hobby for me..hahaha! 💥💥💥 My own thesis: I always welcome constructive feedback, but my only ask is for the audience to give our channel the respect and courtesy it deserves by watching a video before leaving comments. This way, we don't come across as stating the obvious....10 years after the video was released!....fare enough, yes? Now, here is the context that you are missing. 👇👇👇 This video was made simply as a fun weekend experiment to know if a dc to dc boost converter could even provide a clean drive to an inductive load such as this BLDC - with converter peak-to-peak ripple response being more of my concern. This video was not a load test, and neither was it an efficiency test. It was just an introduction to a concept that was primarily driven by the multiple questions we received from the audience pertaining to the subject....also to satisfy my curiosity. Is the video perfect? Is any tutorial video ever perfect?.....the answer is a resounding NO. The focus of my videos is innovation, experimentation, curiosity, and educational entertainment. After making the video more than a year ago, I realized that an actual load test was needed to validate this as a viable option - so I made a follow-on video on which I made it VERY CLEAR that using the combination of a12V battery and a boost converter was not the most feasible idea. In the follow-on video, I very articulately and explicitly explained that low converter efficiencies and high input-to-output power losses are highly undesirable. However, that does not mean that it is absolute impossibility. Some people in third world countries may not be able to afford a 48V battery and would rather prefer to eat the power losses - if and only if they could find a converter that could be able to provide the needed output power from a 12V power source. I would highly recommend that you watch the video, then watch the follow-on video before revising your thesis. 👇👇👇 ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=W6Y8c5h-lPVSqJ0Q I prefer respective and constructive feedback - one that is not laced with sarcasm. Thanks. The Innovati0n Lab💥
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Ok. Thanks for the response. I wasn't aiming this at you in particular, but more to the people that commented and that perhaps are somewhat clueless to these things. I'll make sure to check that video in a bit, as well as that follow-up video too. Btw, sorry if you felt it was "laced with sarcasm". That wasn't my intent. I don't do that unless it's warranted.
@mikaeleriksson7311 No worries at all. I apologize for my earlier tone as well. I make these videos as a way to try to give back. Honestly, these videos are very expensive to produce, but all the constructive feedback from the audience is what keeps me going. However, please take the time to watch the videos and leave us some constructive feedback...what is good and what you think we can improve on. That's all I ask for - especially from our very experienced and knowledgeable audience like yourself.☺️ Thanks again! The Innovati0n Lab💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Ok. I did have a look at the video and I couldn't really find anything related to what I was rambling about, apart from not really being suitable for ebikes.👎 However one thing caught my eye; Is there any reason in particular as to why you're using a chain between the motor and generator? Why not just mount them perpendicular to each other with a coupling, or something as simple as a hose & two hose clamps or something? I don't think a chain with sprockets in each end will add to anything, but it nags me that it's wasted energy between two points since neither is moving like a wheel would which (the wheel, as on a bicycle) also presents a driving challenge as you normally wouldn't be able to fit a shaft or you'd need to have some sort of gear box which is superfluous since you just as well could use a chain and it would be more cost effective, probably.🤔
This was just a concept, and I have made some load test videos since the release of this video. How long the system lasts will depend on the load on the system. But still, 30 minutes is still impressive - if you think of the distance, one can actually travel on an Ebike - in 30 minutes. I hope this helps. The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
You have a good point. However, it also depends on how much load and the input voltage you are using to drive the converter. These converters only deliver 360W at 12V, which is barely half a horsepower of load.
You are right about the efficiency of the converter not being great at a 12V input. However, this video was made as an introduction to the concept. It was not meant to cover everything in great detail. However, as promised, I have made the sequel that talked about the efficiency of the converter at various input voltage levels. Please check out the video below. 👇👇👇 ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=KjNZd1WaFmN8lTrn
Thanks a lot for the feedback. 👍👍 I agree with you. However, the video was mostly an experiment, and I have not had the time to load test the motor while driving it with the boost converter. The most efficient way to drive the 48V motor will be to use a 48V battery. No one can possibly argue that. The point is that some people may not have a 48V battery.
This has been very helpful, I am running an ebike with one for experiement sake and it works pretty well surprisingly at 800 watts with two 12v 50ah lifepo4 batteries in series for a 24v 50ah setup to 48v.
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
As a matter of fact, I am equally running a test with this boost converter on my load simulator, and I am getting similar results.
However, if you don't mind me asking, where are you measuring the 800W? Is it at the input of the boost converter or at the output?
So are you able to use one of these but it just won’t give them full 33amps this controller can draw?
if you open the motor controller box and see the capacitors rated for 63v. you can try to set the boost converter to 60v to be safe and then you use less amps.
Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback. I do appreciate it.
👍👍
On 12v he can run that motor MAX 240w because that Converter has input current max 20A
@null7969 there are 2 15A fuses on this board on the input. So 30A max at 12V. I own one of these boost converters with 3 20A fuses on the input.
It will run ok but if you test it in actual way with a load it will drop voltages it will not keep up, so in your Demo you have test it with a heavy load...
@@null796940a for the inverters using 2x ferrite cores ("1800W") or 25a with single core ("1200W")
Once again, a big greeting and thanks for every video. Another question related to the elec booster and the electric bike(motor) itself: Would it hurt anything for a 36v 250w elec motor if I put a 12v+ booster an 48v 350w controller on it?
again: y want to encrease from 36v to 48v 250w to 350w..my motor is 36v 250w..thanks in advance
Thanks for the amazing feedback!👍👍👍
Given that your motor has a 36V maximum rating, you will likely damage it with a 48V controller.
The 48V controller by itself won't be the problem. However, since you have 12 to 48 booster, you will overpower the motor itself and fry windings.
I would not recommend this, but it's totally up to you.☺️
I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
i plan to use this for a robotics project, this really helps.
Great idea.
wonder if u can use 2 boost converters in parallel to double current or can u series the output on 2 converters to get higher output voltage
Hi friend,
No need to wonder. 😊
Please check out the videos linked below:
👇👇👇
Paralleled converter:
ruclips.net/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/видео.htmlsi=Bj4EeI-12TR8jXoa
Limitless Power Converter Concept:
ruclips.net/video/oPhLpekQ4q4/видео.htmlsi=IebDEjy2MoYQMW8a
I hope you find these videos helpful.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Many thanks. I think of using 12VDC for my 36VDC ebike. It helps me avoid balancing issue of 12VDC batteries. But how about the efficiency? Is it too hot at 20A 12VDC to 48VDC?
Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Yeah, you are right to be concerned about efficiency losses at 12V input - under heavy loads. Personally, I wouldn't recommend using 12V - after I load tested to system at 12V.
Please see the load test video below.
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.html
However, if the converter is working well for you as a 12 to 36V boost converter, maybe for driving light loads, then you can think of adding an external fan to your design. I realize that adding a fan to an ebike design will be difficult, but it could be something to consider.
Could you use multiple converters to give adequate power output to run under a load?
Hi friend,
This is a great question!
👍👍
I think it is possible, but honestly, it is a bit harder to accomplish because switch-mode power supplies or converters like to operate as individuals - unless designed for a synchronous operation. Synchronous power supplies are a little more expensive because they require a slightly more complex control circuit. I will be doing a video in this regard in the near future.
Stay tuned, my friend.
Success wishes on your projects.
hey have you tried just putting this on 48v battery and boosting it to 55v 25amps, to get maximum charge speed at all times?
No, I haven't.
However, I have made a few follow-on videos to this one.
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=Y8_-xwEFfiP1H7Cb
Hi ...geart video ..thank you so much for that ..i wan just ask you ..did this booster can work safty with ebike without problems can it runing small veihcule perfectly as a 48v battery ...can you help me about that ....thank you so much
Hi friend,
This is a wonderful question.👍👍
Unfortunately, I have not been able to conduct a follow-on test to verify the performance of using this boost converter to drive an ebike electric motor under load.
I am still working on this. Please stay tuned. I will make a video as soon as I make some progress.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thank you so much ..❤️❤️
Thanks for posting. I want to figure out how to get the maximum output from a small energy input with my ebike build.
Thanks for the feedback.
However, can you provide some specifics?
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
so by using the boost converter aren't you losing watt? ( horse power)
You are absolutely right.
Please watch the follow-on video where I showed all the power losses at different input voltage levels.
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=oNAVdJi_8sAkfuLx
I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
hello, I want to ask if I have a 48 volt 1500 watt scooter, is it possible to increase the voltage to say 60 volts or 72. thank you
Hi friend,
I am trying to understand what you are trying to do.
However, if I undestood correctly, you will not be able to increase the voltage rating of your motor because the windings and components were designed for a 48V power source.
Hey friend! I have a 250w bike, would a 12v 10ah inverter be enough? My charge controller shows 16ah. But the motor is 250w, I don't understand much about that.
Wonderful question.
👍👍👍
If you are sure about your battery specs, then it means that your battery should be able to provide about 120 watt hours. This means that if you plan to use a boost converter to raise the motor voltage , as shown in this video, you should really expect your battery to last less than 15 - 20 minutes.
This is because you have to account for both converter and motor losses.
However, to answer your question directly, I believe that you should be able to use one of these converters to drive a 250W motor with a 12V battery.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I will use a 12v 15ah deep cycle lead battery. I'm Brazilian my friend, I really like your channel, I'll send it translated so you can understand.
FIRST OF ALL AS YOU DO HAVE TWO BOOSTERS, CAN YOU CONNECT 12V ON THE FIRST BOOSTER INPUT,
AND THEN CONNECT THE OUTPUT OF THE FIRST BOOSTER TO THE INPUT OF THE SECOND BOOSTER
AND CHECK THE OUTPUT OF THE SECOND BOOSTER TO SEE IF IT CAN SUPLY WITHOUT FAILURES PLEASE?
NOW I HAVE SEEN WHAT HAPPENED TO THE PARALLEL CONNECTION!!!! IS THERE ANY POSSIBILITY TO CONNECT THE BOOSTERS IN SERIOUS ( X)?
THANK YOU
Great question.
But the quick answer is 'no.'
Would this work for an electric mower conversion? I have a 36v battery and I need it to output 120v for the motor.
Hi friend,
I love the way you think!
This is one of the projects that has been on my mind, honestly.
However, is your motor a DC motor or an AC motor?
Unfortunately, this boost converter can only go up to 95V DC.
I was able to modify the converter in one of the videos to show that it can possibly be tweaked to a high voltage. However, that is not something I would recommend for you to do.😊
Have you considered using a lower voltage motor? But that is if you are willing to spend a little bit more on the project.
For charging, you manually remove the connectors ?
Great question, but honestly, this video simply focused on the possibility of using a boost converter to drive the BLDC motor. Normally, most lithium phosphate batteries would come with a separate charging connector from the main power output connector - depending on the tupe of BMS (Battery Management System) you used. So, you may not have the need to disconnect before charging.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 if you put BMS, will it be placed before the step up converter or after, or parallel?
Hi there Great video
How long will the battery last if its 40 mah
Great question.
40mAH = 0.04AH...I don't know, maybe less than 10 seconds.
You should be using such a low energy battery for such a project.
I need to charge a solar generator from my 12v lithium through the solar input which needs to be at least 48-150v 10A max. Is 48v the highest you can boost 12v?
Thanks a lot for watching the video and for leaving a comment.
The 1800W version of these constant curre t boost converters has an output voltage range thag goes up to up to 96V.
I have made lots of videos on this subject. Please see the linked videos at the end on this one. I also made a video to show what you need to do to exceed the 96V manufacture max output voltage. Take some time to watch those videos and I am sure you will find them helpful to what your question.
Thanks again, please help our channel reach a wider audience by sharing our videos.
Very good video,please sir con I use the dc converter alone as a motor speed controller. thankful sir.
Wow!!
That is definitely an interesting idea. I love it when people think outside the box!👏👏👏
However, honestly, I would not recommend you do it because, at lower voltages, you will damage the converter as a result of high current surges.
But if you are feeling adventurous, you can definitely try it. But you must know that there is a big risk of damaging the converter, or your motor, or both.
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Ineed help my boost convert turning off when i try to throotle
I’m a little confused regarding the input potentiometer. How exactly do I measure to set the minimum voltage ? I have a amp/voltage meter to set the output, but I’m not understanding how to set the input. I will be using a 36V battery with BMS. I figure that the BMS adds some safety. I will most likely boost up to 48V. I have the 1800w dc converter version of the one in your video. Thanks !
Oh, friend!!
My apologies for missing this feature in my videos. Thank you for asking this amazing question!!
👍👍👍👍
I will make a quick video this weekend to go over this.
What you are referring to is the Under Voltage Protection (UVP) potentiometer. Usually, once I set it, I just leave it alone.
This potentiometer basically helps you to determine the set voltage where you want your boost converter to stop the boost function.
For example, if your design goal is to boost a 24V battery to 60V, but you want the boost converter to stop boosting when the battery voltage drops down to 12V...or any voltage below the initial battery voltage (24V). Then, you have to adjust the UVP to the voltage that you have chosen. The process of doing this is simple but also a bit elaborate to explain via text. Please watch out for the video this weekend.
However, if you don't have any design needs to set the UVP, I will recommend that you just adjust the potentiometer close to the input connector counterclockwise until it bottoms out. You will hear audible clicks from the potentiometer when you get to this point.
Please note that doing this might mean that you will lose the UVP function.
Disclaimer:
When it comes to this device, I am simply an unaffiliated user like you as I didn't design it. My videos are honest reviews that are not sponsored by the converter manufacturers or vendors. Please conduct your own research before implementing any of my suggestions.
I will post some pictures in the community area. I hope you can find them helpful.
Essentially, whenever you see that the yellow UVP LED is illuminated, it means that the boost converter has entered the UVP mode...and your output voltage will drop down to the same level as your input voltage.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for helping me understand this better, I look forward to you presenting this feature in a future video.
Though all my batteries have BMS, I wanted the extra layer of protection that the under voltage protection provides 🙂. I bought a more expensive 36V to 48V step up converter, but that device is huge compared to the 1800w dc to dc converter ! Because I will be using these for my ebike projects, space is limited.
Thanks again
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I’ve seen many videos that demonstrate how to adjust the current and output, but not necessarily the UVP adjustment function which I think is especially important because the battery is generally the most expensive of all the components 😅. For someone who is a novice (myself) to these devices, I’m trying to prevent problems 😄.
I’m glad that you thought that this was a important issue to address 👍
Would be interesting to see a load on your motor to see how that booster handles that.
Thanks a lot for watching this video. I appreciate the comment.👍
I agree with you completely. It's as if you read my mind. If I get a good audience interaction on this video, I will make a follow-up up video to see how I can put a load on the motor.
i tried with a load. it doesn't work. the controller shuts off.
@@varman001 At least it shuts off better than some that just burn out!
@@ericdelevinquiere9902 why would it burn out in this scenario?
It will have to be underpowered in voltage for the controller to cut out power, it thinks the battery is depleted while mean, the booster isn't capable of maintaining the voltage because it's weak.
This explains why we don't use this, better of buying a bigger battery.
@@princecharles3452 Well a lot of these cheap boosters do not do a very good job in safe failing, high current could lead to some components frying, have had that experience with poorly regulated devices.
Hey im actually searching on making an e bike for not too much and I already have the bike frame but I dont have much money to spend and im searching for something that has like a 40km range do you have any idea of what I should take
Hi,
Thanks for watching our videos. Since you already have a bike frame, you basically need to invest in some good Lithium phosphate battery pack, and a good ebike motor kit. I saw a kit on Amazon that goes for less than $120. You can definitely give it a try to see if it will work for you. My recommendation will be for you to check out the reviews of the product you decide to go with - this way, you don't waste your money.
I will be building an ebike soon and will be making a review video for any ebike kit I end up using.
If you don't have all the parts, you can keep accumulating them gradually until you have everything you need.
Stay tuned.
👍😎
Hi can these step ups ruin the lithium cells or decrease the life of the battery pack or is all this false? I know that by increasing the voltage the battery discharges earlier this seems obvious but I don't know if it decreases the total life of the battery you know lithium batteries have about 1000 cycles which should last 2/3 years but with the step up I don't know if it will die to earlier ? thanks vrey much
Hi friend!
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback. I like your thoughts on this.
👍👍
However, all I can say is that as long as you are not overstressing your battery system by drawing much current than your battery system can handle, then your battery should be ok.
My recommendation for your lithium ion or phosphate batteries is that you should never apply any load that will draw more than 50% of the battery's "C" rating.
For example, if your battery pack has a C rating of 30Ah, I would not recommend subjecting it to loads that will draw more than 15A continuously - if you are concerned about getting the full 1000 cycles out of your battery.
The great thing is that most lithium phosphate batteries can withstand a short duration surge current draw about 5X of the C rating. But this should only be for a short duration.
Summary:
Design your system such that your current draw does not exceed what your batteries can handle - whether you are using a boost converter or not.
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback.
Success wishes on your project, friend!
👍😎
How about using 220v ac converter and use 48v powersupply with 60amp rating? Its just in my mind cos i cant find dc to dc converter here.
Yes, it depends on what you will be doing with the motor. If you are going to use it on an ebike or electric scooter project, you will need an actual 48V battery.
I am not sure if I understood your question correctly.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
@@theinnovati0nlab782 i mean from 12v rated 150ah battery to dc to ac converter to make it 220v and then install power supply which is rated 48v 68ah will that work to make motor run on its peak power?
@@theinnovati0nlab782 i mean inverter 220v not converter
@jesongayanoche660
Ah, I see! I fully understand now.
It should work, but you are going to be wasting a lot of power due to conversion losses.
You will be losing power at each of these stages:
- 12VDC to 120VAC
- Step down to back to 48V from your power supply
- lastly, power losses on your motor speed controller.
But if this the only alternative you have, then it's up to you to give it a try.
However, pay close attention to the power cables you will be using on the 12V to 220V inverter side... you will need huge cables to minimize inpuy power losses.
I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
Yes you can do it with no load on the motor but the voltage upconverter needs to handle the same amps as the motor can draw. That's a big motor and can probably draw 30 amps or more at full load. Try and connect that to a real scooter and ride it and that puny voltage converter will fry due to the amps being pulled.
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=jW2oDJ4w2keKvBRr
How much time it will work ,
I thik after loading it will pull measure current , if it will work on 12 volt then then we can save money, because for 60 volt battery is very costly than 12 volt battery, Pls reply
Hi friend,
I like the way you think and I see your point. However, it may not be the best idea to run the motor on a boosted 12V because at peak performance, there will be a surge in the drive current demanded from the 12V battery and this will drastically shorten the life of your battery. My plan is to use at least 24-36V boosted to 48V to run the dc motor. Higher voltages are encouraged because they mean less current draw from your battery system. Also, we have to account for the converter efficiency losses.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I built a ebike using a 20 inch kids bike and 2- 12v@9ah scooter batteries
in series and a simple on off toggle switch, and got 13 to 15 mph consistently. Then for fun,
i added a BUCk converter and was able to run the 250w/24v motor at speeds as low as 3 ish mph
by reducing volts to as low as 8-9 volts and 9-10 amps.No problems - no overheating. But back
to what Mahesh alluded to, a typical 60v-10ah ebike battery(specific to a particular ebike) will
cost alot vs using a 12v-50ah generic lifepo4 battery. And if you run both at .5C then its battery safe and
provides 300 watts either way...Only maybe need to increase wire guage for 25-30 amps and (using
1200w 40a or 1800w 50a converter) if you accelerate slow enough, in theory it should work....ie
not burn up the unit. Another problem might be getting the lawn mower battery sized lifepo4 to
fit somewhere on the bike..., maybe in a rear mount cargo basket? Almost anything is possible
Спасибо за видео. А можно ли такие преобразователи подключать параллельно, для увеличения выходной мощности?
Thanks a lot for the great question. 👍
The reality is that connecting any SMPS converter in parallel, a is difficult to do. However, it could be possible. I plan to do something like that in the future to experiment on it.
Stay tuned, fiend!
👍👍
Did you try and run two in parallel yet?
This test is without a load...What is the current under load? For electrical bikes you need a lot of torques. I doubt if this boost controller can handle that. why didn't you use the 1800 W version? Or why didn't you use 2 or 3 boost converters parallel and use diodes in the output or 5W 10K resistors to share the current in all boost converters i. parallel ? Than it might work if your battery can handle the current. Then why you don't increases the voltage? that decrease current. Greetings an engineer...
Thanks again,
You are very correct.
I have lots of ideas and projects but not enough time and resources to actually execute all of them....and now make and edit the videos...lol
Hopefully, in the future, when The Innovati0n Lab has seen more growth, we can do multiple video projects simultaneously.
Actually I made a test video that could address some your initial set of questions. This was a straight 48V drive - without the boost converter.
👇👇 ruclips.net/video/OuLokIPeGt8/видео.html
I just currently completed a load test on this very ebike electric motor using the 1800W converter to drive the bike motor on my load simulator. Ever since I made this video and realized that I really needed to figure out a way to load test the ebike motor, and this has been something on my mind. The video is coming out this week. It may not be perfect, but I believe it will address some of your questions.
In the future, I will also be thinking of implementing the paralleled boost converter drive.
Stay tuned, and thanks a lot for all the great ideas and feedback!
👍😎
As voltage increase, current in the circuit decreases.
Can I use it as Dynamo?
Well, honestly, I haven't tried using it as a dynamo.
How can I connect 2 1800w boots converter on serial to increase the voltages
Great question!
👍👍
Unfortunately, you will not be able to accomplish a series output with these converters because this is a non-isolated flyback topology. You will need converters with total input to output isolation.
I have gotten lots of questions regarding this subject. I will make a video to explain it soon.
Stay tuned.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
Can I run a 36v ebike battery on a 1800w brushless motor
Thanks for watching our videos.👍
What are the rated voltage and current specs of your brushless motor?
Its a 48v motor I bought off Amazon same one in your video. VEVOR Electric Brushless DC Motor,48V 1800W Brushless Electric Motor,4500RPM
hi sir, can you make a video how to control this motor using rc remote control
Thanks a lot for the feedback. Maybe sometime in the future, but no promises. 😊
Stay tuned.
Do you have a video of this set-up under load?
Hi friend,
This will be the next video coming out soon. I am currently working on it.
Let me know if there is anything specific that you would like to see.
👍👍
We need to know if it really run on street with a load of 90kg put it on actual test not just measurements
You are absolutely right, and that is the end goal. I am pragmatic as well, but these projects take time and resources to put together. Stay tuned my friend.
😎👍
Where can I get volt controller
I usually get them from Amazon.com or eBay. You can also try other online stores or websites.
Search for '1800W boost converter.'
Sir how i will get 1500w dc to dc convertor 12v to 60 72
I want buy
You can find it online through Amazon.com or eBay. This is usually where I get mine from.
I've not seen the video, I just went here for the comments, and I don't understand why on Earth anyone would think a DC-DC converter even would be an option?
Ok, I can kind of understand being in a pinch if you've got a single battery, and you need to boost the voltage as a temporary solution while you're waiting to afford buying a bigger battery pack or something like that.
Ok if you would be sitting on a bunch of old lead/acid batteries and you've got a frame on a vehicle that you don't either care about the additional weight, or running on flat roads with no inclines and your motor/controller uses large amounts of current (But, any DC-DC converter that handles high current is usually very expensive).
I think that about would be the only reasons to consider it. But from 12V to 36 or 48V would be ludicrous as you would probably expend twice as much energy in the conversion process, or at least in the vicinity of that.
What I think many people don't realize is that you lose huge amounts of energy in the conversion process from a lower voltage to a higher one, and your battery won't last nearly as long as a proper voltage one would.
As for using Lithium batteries, I would suggest looking for auctions or such from people who actually sells used ones, as these can be good for many, like hundreds of charges.
These can often be found from people who refurbish ebike batteries, or just regular people who happened to come across a faulty one where something like a single broken cell (battery) might have a fabrication error, moist damaged or whatever that made the whole battery pack "go bad", or something as sinister as battery packs which uses timed aging, meaning that some companies have cartelled together to manufacture BMSes (Battery Monitoring System) which contains a micro processor that after a certain amount of charge cycles, time or both, renders the whole pack useless, and they then charge the customer to replace all batteries which they either do (at which point it may end up in either a landfill, or in the hands of someone that sells them further on platforms such as eBay or similar), or they just charge the customer for some insane amount to just short two pins to reset the timer for the next round.
Fierce market to say the least. Better stay out of the way from cheap Chinese batteries too as they most likely won't keep the same standards, so they cut out some safety regulations & measures, skips endurance and hazard tests, cheap out on raw materials and sometimes even compensates with lead for the weight.
Batteries are often labeled as having capacity in the 3000-3600 mAh all the way up to 10'000 mAh which is obvious bogus when you compare the prices to proper Samsung, LG cells and so on. Not to mention that the capacity for 18650 cells never exceeds 3600 mAh since they can't hold more than that.
A good indication is also the weight as a proper cell weighs roughly about 50 grams each so it's usually easy to spot a fake that way.
Unless the manufacturer is well-known, reputable or own by some international company that in other words are liable for any lawsuits, do, for the most part, follow laws and regulations, thus performs safety tests on their products (If they don't, you can probably sue them at least), so these products would probably be somewhat safe.
Cheap batteries from some unheard obscure company I would never trust to leave charging over night. These are the ones you can see videos about spontaneously catching fire due to skipped safety measures when manufacturing these batteries, whether its the subpar materials they use, or machines that cannot keep tolerances within limits due to bad maintenance, cheap & bad parts, lazy repairmen or just poorly constructed. This is why you cannot trust them.
Thank you for responding to a video you have not watched - with a 200-page PhD. thesis.
Well, here goes my own thesis....yes, I don't only make videos, I can write as well... These videos are nothing but a weekend hobby for me..hahaha!
💥💥💥
My own thesis:
I always welcome constructive feedback, but my only ask is for the audience to give our channel the respect and courtesy it deserves by watching a video before leaving comments. This way, we don't come across as stating the obvious....10 years after the video was released!....fare enough, yes?
Now, here is the context that you are missing.
👇👇👇
This video was made simply as a fun weekend experiment to know if a dc to dc boost converter could even provide a clean drive to an inductive load such as this BLDC - with converter peak-to-peak ripple response being more of my concern. This video was not a load test, and neither was it an efficiency test. It was just an introduction to a concept that was primarily driven by the multiple questions we received from the audience pertaining to the subject....also to satisfy my curiosity.
Is the video perfect?
Is any tutorial video ever perfect?.....the answer is a resounding NO.
The focus of my videos is innovation, experimentation, curiosity, and educational entertainment.
After making the video more than a year ago, I realized that an actual load test was needed to validate this as a viable option - so I made a follow-on video on which I made it VERY CLEAR that using the combination of a12V battery and a boost converter was not the most feasible idea. In the follow-on video, I very articulately and explicitly explained that low converter efficiencies and high input-to-output power losses are highly undesirable. However, that does not mean that it is absolute impossibility. Some people in third world countries may not be able to afford a 48V battery and would rather prefer to eat the power losses - if and only if they could find a converter that could be able to provide the needed output power from a 12V power source.
I would highly recommend that you watch the video, then watch the follow-on video before revising your thesis.
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=W6Y8c5h-lPVSqJ0Q
I prefer respective and constructive feedback - one that is not laced with sarcasm.
Thanks.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Ok. Thanks for the response. I wasn't aiming this at you in particular, but more to the people that commented and that perhaps are somewhat clueless to these things.
I'll make sure to check that video in a bit, as well as that follow-up video too.
Btw, sorry if you felt it was "laced with sarcasm". That wasn't my intent. I don't do that unless it's warranted.
@mikaeleriksson7311
No worries at all.
I apologize for my earlier tone as well. I make these videos as a way to try to give back. Honestly, these videos are very expensive to produce, but all the constructive feedback from the audience is what keeps me going.
However, please take the time to watch the videos and leave us some constructive feedback...what is good and what you think we can improve on.
That's all I ask for - especially from our very experienced and knowledgeable audience like yourself.☺️
Thanks again!
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Ok.
I did have a look at the video and I couldn't really find anything related to what I was rambling about, apart from not really being suitable for ebikes.👎
However one thing caught my eye; Is there any reason in particular as to why you're using a chain between the motor and generator? Why not just mount them perpendicular to each other with a coupling, or something as simple as a hose & two hose clamps or something?
I don't think a chain with sprockets in each end will add to anything, but it nags me that it's wasted energy between two points since neither is moving like a wheel would which (the wheel, as on a bicycle) also presents a driving challenge as you normally wouldn't be able to fit a shaft or you'd need to have some sort of gear box which is superfluous since you just as well could use a chain and it would be more cost effective, probably.🤔
bateery will last 30 mins under load
This was just a concept, and I have made some load test videos since the release of this video.
How long the system lasts will depend on the load on the system. But still, 30 minutes is still impressive - if you think of the distance, one can actually travel on an Ebike - in 30 minutes.
I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
😀😀😀
😀
add a load and it will burn the converter
You have a good point. However, it also depends on how much load and the input voltage you are using to drive the converter.
These converters only deliver 360W at 12V, which is barely half a horsepower of load.
You forgot to mention that the efficiency of the 12VDC to 48VDC converter is only 82%
You are right about the efficiency of the converter not being great at a 12V input. However, this video was made as an introduction to the concept. It was not meant to cover everything in great detail. However, as promised, I have made the sequel that talked about the efficiency of the converter at various input voltage levels.
Please check out the video below.
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/video/haGmAmpqNAw/видео.htmlsi=KjNZd1WaFmN8lTrn
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Ok, sorry, I hadn't seen that video before.
टाईम। ओर किलो मिटर चलती..है..
Thanks for the feedback
totally inefficient. the four 12volt in series batteries is better and better!
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
👍👍
I agree with you. However, the video was mostly an experiment, and I have not had the time to load test the motor while driving it with the boost converter.
The most efficient way to drive the 48V motor will be to use a 48V battery. No one can possibly argue that. The point is that some people may not have a 48V battery.