Can you use epoxy outside
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2020
- Learn step by step how to make an Outdoor Table using epoxy and a few simple tools. You can use these same steps for a DIY outdoor kitchen or other projects. Yes it is possible to use Epoxy for outside projects. We will come back one year later and check on how our tables are doing.
Хобби
Epoxy is not designed to go outdoors. Especially when you’re doing it in a thicker resin application like those tables. It will get soft and it is not UV stable and can turn cloudy and even yellowover time. You will need to seal the top of the epoxy with a urethane topcoat. Like on a garage floor that has been epoxied. Just words of advice from somebody who’s been in the business for 30 years.
Agreed! ( been doing this for 45years) I would never ever use mdf for outdoors! In about 2 years this will be junk!
Stonethetic great vid ton's of info. you need to update the vid if you leave stone coat epoxy outside in the sun it will fade turn cloudy loose all shine ! I have a 19 ft bar top and outdoor kitchen top that HAD fractured blue marble stone coat. The entire thing has to be refinished . Stone coat told me you can't use it in direct sun light , zero warnings on their sight to not use it in the sun.
hope this saves someone else the trouble.
Thank you give me ideas to make my tops better your RUclips channel helped me immensely I now can feel more confident enjoying my for my backyard bar
Thank you. I'm glad you've found my videos helpful
You guys did awesome on those tables
Thank you!
Very cool!
Thank you!
This answered my question on whether I could use these on outside pieces. Going to build Horizontal Bee Hives. Will send pictures next year.
I'd love to see them!
I have a round concrete tiled patio table. I want to cover it with a patterned polyester fabric and make it water proof. Can you do a tutorial on that please?
How would you make a completely weatherproof table top from an glass top patio table. Sun and Snow. Minnesota winters. Thank you,
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. You said used Stone Coat Countertop epoxy? Did you use any products in particular knowing that the table would be outside? I am looking to do a similar project that I am planning on also putting outside.
Yes, I used the "Art Coat" for the final clear coat, which has added UV protection. I just used the regular one for the first layer, since I intentionally chose an earth-tone pattern. If you are using a lighter white or grey pattern, I'd suggest Art Coat for both. Also, you can further add UV Protection and durability with their "Ultimate Top Coat". That product wasn't available when I made these tables for the client, but I've tested it since then, and it really helps even further for outdoor protection. Good luck with your project!
The Customer liked the Frosted Chocolate Pattern that we made in this video:
ruclips.net/video/OFSpmlh_L1o/видео.html,
but wanted a subtler pattern. While we were making it, they decided they liked the subtle look of just the two metallics chopped together, and we went with that. The flexibility in epoxy allows you to customize your look to whatever your customer wants.
Do you epoxy the bottom also with just a clear coat of does the red guard and killz protect from it from the elements?
We just added the redgard for the underside for water and weather protection. No need to epoxy the bottom as well. The only reason we added the Kilz and the paint over the Redgard was aesthetic at that point.
Great video... a new subscriber here.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for subscribing!
Is there table top epoxy in spray can that works well? Love the channel and thank you in advance
Javier, I don't know of one. Why would you try to spray the epoxy?
Like the video but how did you do the edges or is that in mother video thanks 👌😊
For the Edges, I just used a 3/8ths inch roundover bit on both sides, which created sort of a "half-nose" effect (like a flatter bullnose). Then, when doing the epoxy coat, the epoxy flows over the edges. You just need to brush it out periodically using long, horizontal brush strokes.
I have an old metal spool that i would like to buy an old wood table to put on it for my outdoor courtyard. I need it to be waterproof. If i use the process above, will that waterproof it good enough to leave outdoors? I also have to worry about rain, snow and sun. thanks.
Yes. Make sure you seal the underside like I did in the video with Redgard. Between that and the epoxy top, it will weather outdoors, even in the snow and rain. I recently made an outdoor kitchen countertop for a family around the holidays. That video is half-finished with the editing, and I will be posting that on my channel shortly for another example of an outdoor project.
REALLY need some advice on a project I did for the Nature Centre, as I am their artist. I had to cover mosaic tile table tops (which had been created years ago, so everything was more than fully cured and stored inside) with resin so the surface would not cut any little fingers. Well, I got an Eci epoxy resin with UV protection rated for outside use and put 3 thin layers on it. Cure of each layer for at least 3 days before lite sand and apply more. Looked great and prevented any sharp edges from protruding. It seemed fine over the summer, facing west, however, when winter came it had turned yellowish and even cracked in a few places. I am not sure what to do with these artworks now. I could lift off the epoxy and re-apply after sanding it down etc, but then do I add a varnish on top to protect it? We have extreme temps here in Canada. From -30 to + 95 Celcius here., Thank you in advance. I really hope you see this, as I can't seem to get any answers from anyone on this topic! I did learn from your video, I just need some more ideas before going to town on this yet again. Cheers and thank you!!:)
Vicki, varnish will also yellow. In fact, that would probably yellow more than the epoxy did. One main thing I do with any outdoor projects - in addition to the high UV rating, I always go strictly earth tones. In other words, I pick colors where if the coat does amber a little bit, you wouldn't notice it much. I haven't had an issue with cracking, although I try to keep the epoxy layer fairly thin. 2 layers max. The thicker the build up, the more likely your epoxy will be to crack in outdoor conditions. Outside of that, I'm not fully sure. I have 2 outdoor kitchens I have done that have stood the test of time, but I did another outdoor kitchen recently, and the epoxy cracked on me, and I will be re-covering that one with a new layer of epoxy. Not sure the difference, but my recent one didn't go as well as the one from this video above. Oh, well - such is life.
@@stonethetic Yes, I did a thin layer of Ecopoxy with UV. Here in Canada, we do get extremes in temp, like -30 toC to +95, so that may not help. I think I will resend the project and try again in another thin pour. It was only 1/16 or less thick. As for varnish, I was told the water-based clear polyurethane would work overtop the epoxy. But, since I see you have done some outside work, I really wanted to pick your brain!:) Thanks also for the fast reply! I appreciate it, as time is a factor where I work. :) I did let the epoxy cure properly, so it just may have been a section that may have got too hot while I was working on it. It also seems that epoxy is rather fickle...sometimes it works great and other times not. I think it may have to do with shelf life and how long its been on a store shelf...fresh materials can be hard to get here. Cheers from Canada
When you mentioned summer heat, how hot were you considering? We have experienced 122 degrees here.
Great question! These tables were installed up in a mountain area. On the cold extreme, they get snow directly on the tables, and experience below freezing temperatures. On the hot side, it gets up to about 94F up there. Although, while these particular tables I showed in the video don't get up to your 122 degrees, we are down in Las Vegas, and we do Outdoor Kitchens here, where the summers will get pretty hot (about 118F on an extreme day).
@@stonethetic Thank you. I appreciate the response.
My husband and I did an enormous bar top with resin. 14 gallons! It came out amazing! We used sand colored mortar to make a “river “ bank, filled the middle with dark blue cracked glass with a hidden LED light strip to make the glass glow at night. It has held up well with only one small crack that we can totally live with. It does get sunlight for some of the afternoon. Had a little yellowing but not terrible. This is our problem. Rain water has dried on the resin many times over the last year and is making white hazy spots. I’ve tried everything to remove them but nothing works. I’m assuming rainwater has a lot of calcium and is making deposits. How can I get rid of the spots? Any suggestions?
Your project sounds beautiful. Based on other comments, It seems a river table outside could be prone to some problems, like cracking (I've never attempted a river table outdoors myself, but I've received a couple horror stories). As far as the calcium deposits (especially present in more arid climates), the good news is that this is just on the surface. You can rejuvenate your surface with a little light sanding. I would start with 600-grit in a 1/4 sheet sander or random orbital. This will initially dull your beautiful surface, but also strip away the calcium deposits, then wet-sand up through higher and higher grits. End around 3,000-grit, then use a polishing compound to further polish to a higher sheen to restore your gloss surface. Alternately, you could use exclusively polishing compounds, starting with the courser ones and progressing through the finer finishes. If you wanted to see an update to this video, I answered a lot of common questions for outdoor projects in this year's follow-up video: ruclips.net/video/4_I8Pyyk52g/видео.html The Q&A part is around the 7-minute mark, so you could skip ahead to that part, if you like. - Nalani
Thank you!
I had a similar issue with outdoor epoxy. Epoxy is actually fairly porus and minerals from rain water will absorb into them. The longer you let it continue the deeper they will go. I had to sand it down fairly aggressively until everything was removed (using a d/a and 80 grit). Then I added a new coat of resin on top. THEN once finished and cured, I sprayed it with automotive clearcoat. I have used a professional spray system, but if that's not feasible you can use spray can called SprayMax 2k Glamour. It's a 2 part clear in a can. I'd do 3 full wet coats. Then if there's any orange peel you can sand it with a hard black and 1500 grit sandpaper then polish it out. After that you can just apply a good automotive paint sealer like Griots 3 in 1 (Advanced Auto and Orileys carries it) so the rain will bead up and protect everything good. This will fix the yellowing and the mineral deposits. Even if you do get any rain spots, you can use automotive spot remover to get them off since its top coated in automotive clear.
Lots of work but it sounds like you have a beautiful piece worth saving. It's too bad no one told you from the start that you needed to clear coat it if outdoors....with a high UV protecting clear.
*Update....you may want to try removing the spots with an automotive spot remover if it's not bad. My job was very bad and that didn't work, but be careful using chemicals like that on your epoxy, many of them have harsh acids which auto clear can handle but your epoxy might not.
I didnt have the same luck...You cant put this epoxy in a place where there is direct sun. I created a countertop with walnut and an epoxy river. What happened in the heat was that the epoxy would get soft and then after a bit of time started cracking. I was told by stone coat that they do not recommend using their counter top epoxy outdoors. Thoughts?
Bill, your countertop project sounds beautiful! I'm sorry it didn't last. In my case, I used the StoneCoat "Art Coat" for my clear coat layer, which has added UV protection. I wonder if it was the thicker amount of epoxy in the river part of your project that caused your issue? The tables I did in this video have been up in the mountains in Southern Utah for a while now. I also recently did an outdoor kitchen here in Las Vegas that is in direct heat. That one was in December around Christmas, and I will be posting a video on that soon. I haven't had a full summer for the kitchen yet, so time will tell, but so far so good.
Can you epoxy over steal? We are wanting to do a epoxy a steel outdoor table. I would love to see you do that!
Yes - you can epoxy over steel. You will need to prepare the surface. Find a good primer that will adhere to the steel. From there, it is the same basic steps for your undercoat. Paint over the primer, and allow it to dry, then you can epoxy over the surface.
I’ve used automotive epoxy for steel doors. It’s just as tough and has uv protection!
Hello, do you have a video detailing how to create the fractured look? I think this is a technique I need to know for my next project. Thank you so much
yes! You can see the fractured look either on this video on Baltic Brown:
ruclips.net/video/ge_j5NbkWVk/видео.html
or on the Ubatuba Granite on this video:
ruclips.net/video/mB5MHYh_qSU/видео.html
Good luck with your project!
What about using real wood ,in weather that can exceed - 20 in canada ? As your video is in the states which most of states dont see these type of temperature, thanks in advance
Randy, good question. For the first part on using real wood. I avoided real wood myself, as that can be more subject to warping, especially under extreme temperatures. The epoxy does have some flex, even when fully cured, which prevents cracking or other issues. However, the surface will only be as good as the base, since it can only flex so far. The MDF would likely hold up as long as it was well protected, like I showed in the video. Plywood would probably warp over time. Solid wood may or may not do. I would suggest using a wood that you would normally use for outdoor furniture that holds up to extreme cold. As far as holding to the extreme cold (your second part of the question), It should hold in theory. This particular table regularly sees below freezing, but not quite as extreme as the amount you listed. Over this past weekend, we checked back in with this client, and they let us know the tables are still holding very well out there. They get lots of compliments from visitors!
Use clear automotive epoxy for uv compatibility!
My left ear is very happy 🎉
Hi,can I use Epoxy over my Toilet SINK?
If can,is the a Specific Type of Epoxy for a Sink?
Do I need any Top Coat?(Not sure am I asking the right question..Haha)
To be honest, I've never tried to epoxy a toilet sink. You might be better served with a porcelain-based product, like "porc-a-fix" for that one.
What boards did you use???
I used 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, that I glued together with Titebond II Wood Glue.
Hmmm... why use red guard? Wouldn't it be more cost efficient if you just prime it white first and use an epoxy prime coat like in Stone coat tutorials. Then you can apply your pattern.
Stone coat also sells a fast dry epoxy coat... faster than letting the red guard cure time.
Paul, good question. I used Redgard just on the underside where I was not going to do any epoxy effects. This keeps the under part weathertight. If I were to do epoxy on both the underside as well as the top-side, it would have come out a little more expensive for me. I usually buy Redgard in bulk which helps to keep the cost per coverage down for any one project. The upper side where the epoxy was coated didn't have any Redgard - just the paint/primer in one base coat.
You been following them stonecoat counter top videos haven’t you 😆 lol was like looking in a mirror,sorry
What is Redguard?
RedGard is a waterproofing membrane. You apply it just like paint, and it helps to protect your counter from the elements. I put it on the underside of my outdoor kitchens. Here is a link (I'm not paid by Home Depot or by Redgard - the link is just so you can see more descriptions about the product). www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-RedGard-3-1-2-Gal-Waterproofing-and-Crack-Prevention-Membrane-LQWAF3/100678063
How much epoxy is needed to do this to a picnic table?
figure about 6 oz. per square foot. You do a pattern coat, which burns up 3 oz per square foot, and then a clear coat, which eats up another 3 oz per square foot. If you want to do a dirty pour style for the pattern, then expect to burn up a bit more for the pattern coat - around 4.5 oz per square foot for that layer.
@@stonethetic huh? The surface of a picnic table is about 30 square feet. 6 square feet isn’t going to be enough.
@@georgelouis6515 for 30 square feet, I would plan on about 180 oz of epoxy. Or, about 225 oz. if you are doing a dirty pour.
@@stonethetic never mind. I was going to buy one of those one quart kits but if it only covers 6 square feet forget about it.
I am doing a glass on glass project to hang outside. What do I need to do?
KMF - how are you adhering the glass to the glass panes? Are you thinking of applying epoxy over the glass when finished? If you give me a little more details about your project, it would help to better understand what you are attempting.
@@stonethetic using epoxy to adhere the glass
That should work. You may need to physically sand the glass surface to rough it up so the epoxy can adhere. I'd recommend a hand-sanding at 220-grit should do it. the sanding will dull the surface initially, but provided you are coating over the surface with the epoxy afterwards, that will restore the gloss finish when done. I suggest using the "Art Coat" epoxy, as that has added UV protection to keep it clear an non-yellowing, especially since you will be hanging this outdoors when you are done. The two glass panes can be adhered together using the "Quick Coat". Follow the instructions on that bottle closely. Good luck with your project!
@@stonethetic 2 glass panels???
maybe I mis-understood, then. When you are doing the glass, are you trying to stick glass to other glass? or, are you just doing a painted glass craft that you will epoxy over when done?
As promised, we posted a new video one year later to check on the status of how the Outdoor tables have held up so far. We also made a new Outdoor Kitchen. You can watch the new video here: ruclips.net/video/4_I8Pyyk52g/видео.html
How much do those cost
If you are doing the work yourself, a project generally runs about $8-$10 per square foot by the time you have done two coats of epoxy. That includes the MDF and the Redgard, paint, etc.
@@stonethetic you guys charge about $$25 per square foot to install?
@@avanders457 We changed our focus and now mostly do crafts and custom art pieces with Epoxy instead of counters. When we were making these, we charged $29 per square foot, which is the industry average for most epoxy companies. If you are looking for a company to come do this for you, that would be a good ballpark estimate to expect from them.
@@stonethetic thank you! Best wishes
@@avanders457 you're welcome. Best of luck with your project!
Why don't you just leave the MDF its natural color and save a bunch of time and effort by just pouring Epoxy on the bottom. The next day, prep your table as normal, and proceed? It would be a lot stronger than the paint surface. I own my own Epoxy business and understand the entire process, but unless I'm missing something, I don't understand why you are doing it that way.
Terry, I will give that a try on a separate project. While that certainly saves time, does that add appreciably to the cost of your product by using more epoxy?
Why you dont use mask? 0.o
The epoxy we use has zero VOCs (Volatile Organic Chemicals), so a mask was not needed. However, whenever we are using Bondo, we do use a mask, and ventilate the area.
Kenny, you make good points. I will incorporate those into future videos.
Good video but wear a mask when sanding MDF - it is extremely toxic; live long and prosper
Thank you for your comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I do generally wear a mask whenever I am power sanding, even if I didn't for the video.
I was told epoxy yellows outside?
Yes - it does have a tendency to Amber over time when exposed to UV rays. As a result, we did a couple things so that we could use this for an outdoor project:
1) we used StoneCoat Countertop Epoxy "Art Coat", which has added UV protection.
2) We selected earth tone colors for the pattern. So, in the event there is slight ambering over the years, it would still match the overall color scheme.
We will also check in with the customer after a year's time outside in the snow and heat, and post back on our channel with how the tables are holding up.
Thanks for watching!
To follow up on this post. We recently checked back in with our customers. They still love the tables, and mentioned that there has been no yellowing of the surface at all.
You did do anything different that you don't do for an inside table or countertop. The only thing I can see is that the table is outside and you say nothing about it. It does have a roof so sunlight is not directly hitting it is about the only thing that you did to protect it ... from melting\deforming\warping ... etc.
The clients placed this table under a pergola at their property, so it doesn't have a tremendous amount of coverage from the sun or the snow. The only main things I did that seemed to help (now that some time has past from when I made these): 1) Earth Tones. Since it is going to yellow, choose colors where you won't notice the yellowing much anyway. 2) Thin layers. Heavier or more layers of epoxy have proved more prone to cracking outside. As long as you keep the amount of epoxy coverage thinner, it seemed to help lessen that possibility 3) Redgard the underside of the counter. That helped seal it completely from water damage. And that's really all I did. Later outdoor projects - some worked, some didn't. It seems that the same vendor epoxy has worked differently with different batches. So, these tables may have just been ones that lucked out, truthfully.
No mask with that cancer board….
I would never in a million years use mdf outdoors! Never! It’s nothing but a wooden sponge! Big big mistake!