Hi, nice video. Very informative. You did a nice job of showing everything. Are you still happy with your aa s3 clutch kit for the pro? Any issues or negative things? Also, is there much of an upgrade going from the s3 to the s4 kit that you are aware of? Thanks
Good evening, I have a Polaris Turbo S 2021 stock turbo stock engine. I changed it to 35 tires. I bought the assassins brand high load kit. I didn't put any magnet on the weights. I left the 3 weights alone. That's what it says in the manual. The brand answered me. an email that for them it is better that the weights do not have magnets What do you recommend?
Seems to me the stock clutches were just fine. Sure with a heavier spring theoretically you’re getting more clamping power but unless you were blowing belts right and left then you’ll never really know. I just bought the same kit with same helix for my 22 and these results have me disappointed and wondering if I wasted my money.
The stock clutch was not fine for us with the larger, heavier tires. We have a 21, so not sure if they made improvements in 22. We ran it it stock for a while, and we were getting belt slip. That’s why we decided to install the kit. We got back performance that was lost, then some.
From all the research I've done for the 22s seems like the Dalton kit is way to go. Putting on tomorrow, we'll see🤷♂️ I definitely have belt slip stock in that 40-50mph range, and also the belt will get hot and let off a slight stink going over rocks that u would drive over in a daily driven Jeep Grand cherokee
Would be nice to see more of what your actually working on.. maybe a small tripod in front of your work area pointing at the clutch... I appreciate the video! I was trying to see who signed your clutches.. I used to balance them at polaris.. now I'm in materials... I haven't found any of mine yet lol
RS1 is all stock with 30s. No issues, but I would expect some issues with 32s. I’ve heard of folks running 32s on stock RS1 clutch with no issues, but not sure how/what they ride.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad Thanks for the reply, i just found the RS1 vid:) guess i am going to try with stock clutching, heading to HMT end of may from canada, can't wait.
Thanks. Once you're sure the splines are lined up, just work it on by rocking it and possibly some light taps with a rubber mallet. Once you get it on far enough for the bolt threads to catch, the bolt will pull it in. Using a torque stick will make it easier. We got our torque sticks from Home Depot. Good luck!
Why would you take the clutch off to change the spring and weights ? all you have to do is take off the cover, and you can change the weights and spring. so easy to do, with out taking the clutch off.
You are correct. You can change these without removing the primary clutch. There are a few reasons I chose to remove the primary. 1. It's easier to show everyone what's going on when it's on the bench. 2. I prefer to work on the bench when able. 3. I wanted to know how difficult it is to remove the outer sheave; it was difficult. 4. I had to remove the secondary to replace that spring and helix.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad yeah, but you kept complaining about their design and in fact it's really easy. I don't think you knew this info until brien mentioned it or you would have clarified it in the video.
@@tylandredhead my opinion hasn’t changed. It’s a bad design, and it’s not easy to remove the outer sheave. There are times that you’ll need to remove it. Good point, though, that I should have let the audience know that removing the cover while on the machine was an option.
Great video sir thank you for the information. I wonder how it hooks up better in the slow climbing rock stuff? I have the 2021 4 seater and just seems not low enough.
You’re welcome. The clutch does engage and grip much better when crawling. The high load helix is important for that. If you really want it geared lower, a gear reduction is the only way to do that.
I have a 2021 pro ultimate , 323 miles on her and put system 3 RT320 32s on system 3 bead lock 15 inch rims on 64 miles , the wheels n rims all 4 added 56 pounds total and I have not changed out the clutch and my pro runs good , curious so your pro ran good at 1st and then just started running slow , we’re you getting any belt slipping or it was slow at 60 n up ..
I would describe it as lazy on the low end. It just didn’t have the snap it did with stock tires. I did also get some belt slip, so decided to put the clutch kit in; I’m glad I did. It’s all in how you ride. If you’re not riding aggressively, stock clutch may be fine.
I appreciate the video very informative and helpful but it seems like a lot of work for not a lot of reward plus whatever the cost was idk maybe I’m expecting to much but when I spend money and time I’d like to see better results maybe with a tune it would help more?
The main reason for the clutch kit was to reduce belt slip, which it did. Aftermarket Assassins does not advertise performance gains with the high load helix, so the fact that we achieved some gains was a bonus. The high performance helix is advertised to provide performance gains.
I have a 2021 Pro XP as well and my belt is shaving on top on one side. Any suggestion what could cause this or fix this? It has to be catching on something inside the belt housing.
It could be a few things. The belt is likely catching the upper CVT exhaust port. This can happen when the belt goes slack on deceleration. Check out this video from Hunterworks; he talks about it a bit. ruclips.net/video/kawN0TtHxxQ/видео.html
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad This is my thoughts exactly. I purchased an aftermarket limiting spacer from AA with my clutch kit in hopes this will fix my issue. I have delaminated 3 belts and my machine only has 60 hours on it. Thanks for the tip. Really wish Polaris didn't cut corners with these machines just to maximize revenue. These clutches are not good from the factory.
@@kwmiked It ended up being a heat issue with my CVT housing not exhausting the hot air fast enough. It has been fixed. I am new to owning a side by side, and I have never owned anything that ran on a CVT housing. I’m slowly learning :’)
We haven’t tested the top speed, but don’t expect an improvement since this is using the high load helix. Perhaps the performance helix would do something, but gearing and stock ECU are really going to limit the top end.
The OEM service manual doesn’t say anything about it, but cross hatch is recommended by RMATVMC and Hunter Works. We’ve also seen videos where EPI suggests your method. Others suggest a circular pattern, like waxing a car. So, lots of opinions on this out there. We think cross hatch or in/out would be the best, again opinion, and we’ve had no issues using the cross hatch approach. If you have an OEM reference, we’d love to see it.
Not sure which popping noise you’re speaking of. Can you give us a time stamp? Only thing I hear is the BOV releasing boost pressure when the throttle is lifted.
@@skeim5620 interesting. Listening to the video with headphones, I can hear something at take off on the baseline runs. That sound seems to be gone in the post install runs.
Actually, half a second is pretty good considering the high load helix was not supposed to result in performance gains. The reason we did the kit was to get better clamping force due to the heavy tires. For that, this mod was successful. No more belt slippage.
Great video. Can you put up a pic of the different weight adjustments. I lost mine and want to adjust after going with a stage 3 tune
Great video
Amazing video, great talk though and explanation of how the changing the weights makes a difference.
Glad you found the information useful. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi, nice video. Very informative. You did a nice job of showing everything. Are you still happy with your aa s3 clutch kit for the pro? Any issues or negative things? Also, is there much of an upgrade going from the s3 to the s4 kit that you are aware of? Thanks
FYI. Torque sticks on battery impacts over torque by quite a bit. Pneumatic is what they were built for.
Good evening, I have a Polaris Turbo S 2021 stock turbo stock engine. I changed it to 35 tires. I bought the assassins brand high load kit. I didn't put any magnet on the weights. I left the 3 weights alone. That's what it says in the manual. The brand answered me. an email that for them it is better that the weights do not have magnets
What do you recommend?
Did you mention where to get that red tool for holding the secondary? Thanks
Seems to me the stock clutches were just fine. Sure with a heavier spring theoretically you’re getting more clamping power but unless you were blowing belts right and left then you’ll never really know. I just bought the same kit with same helix for my 22 and these results have me disappointed and wondering if I wasted my money.
The stock clutch was not fine for us with the larger, heavier tires. We have a 21, so not sure if they made improvements in 22. We ran it it stock for a while, and we were getting belt slip. That’s why we decided to install the kit. We got back performance that was lost, then some.
From all the research I've done for the 22s seems like the Dalton kit is way to go. Putting on tomorrow, we'll see🤷♂️ I definitely have belt slip stock in that 40-50mph range, and also the belt will get hot and let off a slight stink going over rocks that u would drive over in a daily driven Jeep Grand cherokee
Would be nice to see more of what your actually working on.. maybe a small tripod in front of your work area pointing at the clutch... I appreciate the video! I was trying to see who signed your clutches.. I used to balance them at polaris.. now I'm in materials... I haven't found any of mine yet lol
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. We’ll add another closer camera in future videos.
Whats your initials? I wanna see if u were the one who left bent over rivets sticking up and they slap the plastic over them to puncture thru 🤦♂️ lol
What is the tool you use to hold the secondary in place?
what do you have on the RS1? i am getting 32 xtr370 with stock clutching for my RS1.
RS1 is all stock with 30s. No issues, but I would expect some issues with 32s. I’ve heard of folks running 32s on stock RS1 clutch with no issues, but not sure how/what they ride.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad Thanks for the reply, i just found the RS1 vid:) guess i am going to try with stock clutching, heading to HMT end of may from canada, can't wait.
Just put the S2 kit in my PRO today and having a heck of a time getting the primary back on completely seated. Any suggestions? Great vid BTW.
Thanks. Once you're sure the splines are lined up, just work it on by rocking it and possibly some light taps with a rubber mallet. Once you get it on far enough for the bolt threads to catch, the bolt will pull it in. Using a torque stick will make it easier. We got our torque sticks from Home Depot. Good luck!
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad that did it! Thank you
Why would you take the clutch off to change the spring and weights ? all you have to do is take off the cover, and you can change the weights and spring. so easy to do, with out taking the clutch off.
You are correct. You can change these without removing the primary clutch. There are a few reasons I chose to remove the primary.
1. It's easier to show everyone what's going on when it's on the bench.
2. I prefer to work on the bench when able.
3. I wanted to know how difficult it is to remove the outer sheave; it was difficult.
4. I had to remove the secondary to replace that spring and helix.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad yeah, but you kept complaining about their design and in fact it's really easy. I don't think you knew this info until brien mentioned it or you would have clarified it in the video.
@@tylandredhead my opinion hasn’t changed. It’s a bad design, and it’s not easy to remove the outer sheave. There are times that you’ll need to remove it. Good point, though, that I should have let the audience know that removing the cover while on the machine was an option.
Can you post your chart for the different weight combination. I lost mine
Great video sir thank you for the information. I wonder how it hooks up better in the slow climbing rock stuff? I have the 2021 4 seater and just seems not low enough.
You’re welcome. The clutch does engage and grip much better when crawling. The high load helix is important for that. If you really want it geared lower, a gear reduction is the only way to do that.
I have a 2021 pro ultimate , 323 miles on her and put system 3 RT320 32s on system 3 bead lock 15 inch rims on 64 miles , the wheels n rims all 4 added 56 pounds total and I have not changed out the clutch and my pro runs good , curious so your pro ran good at 1st and then just started running slow , we’re you getting any belt slipping or it was slow at 60 n up ..
I would describe it as lazy on the low end. It just didn’t have the snap it did with stock tires. I did also get some belt slip, so decided to put the clutch kit in; I’m glad I did. It’s all in how you ride. If you’re not riding aggressively, stock clutch may be fine.
What RPM are you seeing the clutch engaging at?
Is this the same kit for the updated primary on the 21 Turbo S?
I appreciate the video very informative and helpful but it seems like a lot of work for not a lot of reward plus whatever the cost was idk maybe I’m expecting to much but when I spend money and time I’d like to see better results maybe with a tune it would help more?
The main reason for the clutch kit was to reduce belt slip, which it did. Aftermarket Assassins does not advertise performance gains with the high load helix, so the fact that we achieved some gains was a bonus. The high performance helix is advertised to provide performance gains.
Awesome!
Patience is an understatement!! Great video!
Polaris, not a great way to have to remove a primary!!!
Thank you!
I got rid of my AA went to Gilomen much better system plus Terry is amazing to talk to for any tech questions
I have a 2021 Pro XP as well and my belt is shaving on top on one side. Any suggestion what could cause this or fix this? It has to be catching on something inside the belt housing.
It could be a few things. The belt is likely catching the upper CVT exhaust port. This can happen when the belt goes slack on deceleration. Check out this video from Hunterworks; he talks about it a bit. ruclips.net/video/kawN0TtHxxQ/видео.html
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad This is my thoughts exactly. I purchased an aftermarket limiting spacer from AA with my clutch kit in hopes this will fix my issue. I have delaminated 3 belts and my machine only has 60 hours on it. Thanks for the tip. Really wish Polaris didn't cut corners with these machines just to maximize revenue. These clutches are not good from the factory.
@@wwalmart did u ever fix the rubbing issue? Did u see the washer Hunter Works has thats the proper size?
@@kwmiked It ended up being a heat issue with my CVT housing not exhausting the hot air fast enough. It has been fixed. I am new to owning a side by side, and I have never owned anything that ran on a CVT housing. I’m slowly learning :’)
AA has the best kits
If you don’t got wot and hit limit push pedal 3/4 let get ip to 60 then smash. Works for me
GooD Video! Where did you get the torqure spec list. I cant find a 2021 one?
It’s out of the 2020 OEM service manual, which is why I initially tried to torque the secondary at a value that was too high.
On the secondary clutch I can’t get the helix to come out I compress and take all 3 bolts out I loosen and it stays in there
Seems strange as it just sits in the recess within the sheave. Maybe a light tap with something soft will help it unseat.
Are you able to get more top speed out of it with this clutch install??
We haven’t tested the top speed, but don’t expect an improvement since this is using the high load helix. Perhaps the performance helix would do something, but gearing and stock ECU are really going to limit the top end.
You would think polaris would do something with there clutches as much as we pay for the machine
No disagreement from us. The RS1 clutches are great from the factory. Pro XP clutches have been problematic.
Polaris makes a lot of money selling belts! Why would they fix it?
When you use scotch pad on the sheaves you are supposed to go in and out and not around!
The OEM service manual doesn’t say anything about it, but cross hatch is recommended by RMATVMC and Hunter Works. We’ve also seen videos where EPI suggests your method. Others suggest a circular pattern, like waxing a car. So, lots of opinions on this out there. We think cross hatch or in/out would be the best, again opinion, and we’ve had no issues using the cross hatch approach. If you have an OEM reference, we’d love to see it.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad ive only seen the in and out ! Its your machine so my opinion doesn't really matter, great video by the way!
Why does it make a popping sound when you fist start out
Not sure which popping noise you’re speaking of. Can you give us a time stamp? Only thing I hear is the BOV releasing boost pressure when the throttle is lifted.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad someone s add I’d it’s the secondary spring pulling in
@@skeim5620 interesting. Listening to the video with headphones, I can hear something at take off on the baseline runs. That sound seems to be gone in the post install runs.
@@DirtyRoosterOffroad your clutch install fixed noise
So all that for less than half a second🤦
Actually, half a second is pretty good considering the high load helix was not supposed to result in performance gains. The reason we did the kit was to get better clamping force due to the heavy tires. For that, this mod was successful. No more belt slippage.