I often work on these cars. They're pretty easy once you learn what you're doing. Unless I'm missing something, you never checked if the coolant level sensor was faulty before trying to clear the code or flashing the module. I've gotten burned on that before. Also, needing to reprogram the module to clear the code is a bug in the software that GM never fixed. It wasn't designed that way. They were just too cheap to get their engineers to write new software that fixes the glitch.
Indeed. You can literally trigger this issue just by pushing the float down with your finger in the HV coolant surge tank. Sometimes, I hate GM. EDIT: LOL! Still watching the video and I just got to the part where he checked for the updated tank with an anti-tamper cap. Is that really GM’s solution?! ;)
@@Ram14250 it’s by design so it’s not a bug. They were scared of battery fires and huge warranty/recall expense if they don’t disable charging and the coolant leaks into the cells. There are coolant fins between every cell so there is plenty of opportunity for a leak. Of course, they got all the fires and warranty recalls they could handle with the Bolt EV but it wasn’t their fault (one single robot at LG was miscalibrated). My issue with the design is that it isn’t more robust and resistant to tampering, plus, it can trigger for no reason even if it isn’t caused by a curious finger bumping the float in the surge tank. Heck, imagine if the whole car turned upside-down! Every system would trigger.
My 2012 GM/Holden volt did this about 18 months ago not long after it had a full coolant replacement by GM/Holden dealer. A Google search showed this to be a common issue. I simply added about 100ml of dex-cool to the “anti-tamper” tank (coolant line above side sticker) then reset the trouble code. No problems since with approx 20,000km and stored outside.
I love the Volt, best car I’ve owned and driven with 100ml of coolant being the only maintenance issue. I’ve just bought a second 2012 and looking at buying a third for the family.
Great fix Ivan, this really demonstrates the importance of technical information. Without that Tsb this fault would be nearly impossible to fix. Keep up the great work i really enjoyed this one!
Did you watch it with your shirt off and hair all messed up! That’s the only way I can watch a PHAD video and really enjoy it. That’s a joke as I’m remembering your blooper when you imitated all of Ivan’s mannerisms perfectly.
The best PHEV ever made that no one knows about. GM was way ahead of their time with this one. The Prius Prime of its day. Too bad they killed it. Good on you for taking it on and good work as usual.
Iono if I'd go THAT far about it being the best.. it's a GM product. Was it good?. Absolutely.. but the best is a real big stretch.. But it was the only GM product I was ever interested in, and that says a lot!
@@dizzy2020 20+ years making the Prius... Explain how that's a rule dodger.. Also the Prius has the engine connected to the wheels. It's called a transmission..
90k miles…sets a code when nothing is actually faulty…to clear said code so car will work again, you have to pay GM AND a mechanic to reprogram modules…YEAH…Best ever made….NOT. Btw, I have some real estate to sell ya 😂
So Toyota has the Triangle of death and GM has a coolant tank and software issue, both are luckily repairable. Just have to be like Ivan and sort thru the maze of bulletins, description of operation and wiring diagrams, easy. :) Nice work Ivan!
Да , на моделях 2011-2012 года, на которых датчик уровня был доустановлен, ошибка P1FFF сбрасывается при sps программировании. На поздних можно уже через диагностику. Если ошибка по низкому сопротивлению изоляции будет повторятся и нет утечки антифриза в батарею - необходимо заменить подогреватель антифриза, он находится в батарее.
IVAN, YOU ARE ON THE TOP OF YOUR TRADE WILL EQUIPPED TO THE LIMIT; WITH ALL YOUR NEEDS TO DO A BETTER JOB THAN MOST PROFESSIONAL SERVICES IN THE INDUSTRIES. YOU HAVE A GREAT KNOWLEDGE TO BE NUMBER ONE. VERY IMPRESSIVE.
I work in the marine industry as an electronics tech and youd be surprised how many times we have to reload software to clear a latched fault. poor software code writing and laziness of the companies to update the program.
This is awesome work! Молодець! :) A couple of suggestions if I may: -- tilt the laptop screen down to reduce reflections and glare; -- press F11 in the browser to go full screen to show more content and reduce scrolling. Hope you get a chance to work on more plug-ins. The owners could really use your help.
All is completely over my head yet both daunting and intriguing. My overall reaction is you are more detective then anything else. Way to go Sherlock! :)
Ivan, i ran into this 6 months ago and it was a 2012. The Level Sensor was faulty, the customer replaced the level sensor and bought it back to me to clear the DTC, of course it would not clear. I told them they needed to make an appointment with Chevy to clear it.
Ivan, this made me a bit nervous just watching. You're working in an area of expertise very foreign to me and it's a bit fearful seeing what automotive repair has become. Not quite like the days when you listened to the vehicle run, adjusted the carburetor a bit, and sent a satisfied customer down the road. Thanks for Sharing! P.S. I didn't even see you use any hand cleaner once the job was done!
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah ots hard to explain to the customer. So in a few months when the water pump on the frame next the the harmonic balancer fails you have to reprogram to clear faults again
Those Chevrolet VOLT vehicles have a very common failure on the HV Battery coolant reservoir level sensor. When the sensor goes bad, it locks the charging system to the HV battery. You have to replace the level sensor on the reservoir, or also is the option to bypass it. Very common failure on this vehicles.
At least you can do the programming and it's not that expensive - many manufacturers have this sort of crap as "dealer only". Plus you have access to the service docs through AllData (and they seem pretty good). For some manufacturers (I'm looking at you BMW) you can't even get the service data, only through their software, which costs $$$$ - or you just pirate it which is what most people do (see your Maserati series...)
There is always someone out there that will find a hack for every system .Just got to throw it on the web & somebody will grapple with it & find a work around.
Wow! Great video...just pulled both of these codes on my 2015 Volt I live in CA and I understand that we get a 10 years 150K warrantee, Q> would reprogramming be covered under warrantee at the dealer? Love to find a person like you near Los Angeles, CA you make sense of everything.
Where may I ask did you get your training as you are very thorough? Oh, I just found your shop and the education and your self interests and need for the hands on and that you found your niche in electro mechanical repair as your bushiness. Very good, Ivan. I kind of thought it may have been close to what I did.
I wonder if that is to keep people from getting a code scanner and continuously resetting the code when there really is a problem resulting in battery damage and possible fire. If you have an EV or hybrid, do not under any circumstance mess with the batteries unless you are a professional. If they go into thermal runaway you will be very sorry.
Let's hope that manufacturers publish full service information, as they do now with every other car on the road. I've yet to see a service procedure that couldn't be conducted by any person capable of reading and following instructions. I don't expect that to be different with EV's, but if it is then there will be no end of the horror stories even among professional technicians.
Yeppers...the diesels of that era had permanent codes that could not clear with scan tool or global reset. The computer has to run and pass the code for it to clear. Reprogramming doesn't clear it either
After reading through a lot of the comments it would seem to be a inherant glitch built in to be a saftey feature albeit a very costly one to rectify.(Also to keep stealerships in the money loop.)
i think that any manufacturer that has a update to fix known faults the update should be free as they could set up a timer on every car to get money from customers ie held to ransom soon as it is known they fix for free then they loose they may get better reliability first time
Relocate the sensor from under the reservoir and wire it up next to the HPCM2. you can locate the two wires with your multi meter set to continuity or buzz and they will be next to each other on connector. The problem with the car is the LONG thin wire to the sensor when powered up is only 3.5 volts on the power side and connected to a 24K ohms resistor " way too much" and the module is looking for a voltage drop to disable charging, module is made to not charge once voltage drop is detected. They made this circuit so the module would be looking for a voltage drop on a supply of only 0.00014 amps. come on GM ... If you put the sensor under the passenger seat keep an eye on the tank level for leaks. PS the dealer had my car 3 times and couldn't fix it there next step they said would be $2200.00 to drop the battery and check the modules.
Similar issue happened to my best friends dad's car. 2012 volt. Had him bring it by the shop, he told me this is the third time it happened to him, first two GM covered, third one was out of warranty. He only had the coolant level fault along with the contractor opened from the fault code. Coolant level sensor read something like 1.2kohm when low, 6.8kohm when at the correct level. Not your standard closed circuit when low, open when at the right level. The magnetic float internal to the tank had gotten coolant in it, replaced the tank because of the float, and ran into the same problem. Couldn't clear the code, I couldn't reprogram it at the time from not having the hardware, and still had to send him to GM to get the module reprogrammed after the repair. Never had to reprogram a module from a bad coolant float before. Just ridiculous.
In the beginning the factory was not building them like this where the code could not be cleared, The Gov. stepped in and required they be made like this to prevent the battery from catching fire. Did it ever help one of these cars not burn hell no.
SAVE THE SPS CAL FILES IN THE SPS CACHE FOLDER then you can use Gm DPS to program any other car and you don’t have to pay gm any money if you want to program a different VIN BUT THE SAME MODUEL you can use the cal files to create a archive file for programming. in the cache file will be “for this ECU 3 bin files” 2 of which are the cal files which is stuff like boot and operational software the other is called a utility files it acts like a instruction set for dps to program that specific module It can also do other cool stuff with type4 like odo correction 😉
Thats crazy that you absolutely have to take your car to a dealership in order to reset a check engine code. But that's no software bug. That's job security right there.
When you tried to reset the codes with the scan tool and it couldn't do it because it said "High Voltage Battery Circuit Contactor Not Open" do you think that means you needed to pull the high voltage disconnect and then see if it would reset. Just a thought.
I think it's just referring to the insulation resistance, where it had to be above 325k ohms (or whatever it was). and the live data said it's now 3000k ohms, so it is actually "open". But I do agree with your question, because why is the special function even there if you can never use it anyway, and have to get it programmed? Pretty strange. I'm not doubting his choice to program it though, because it did say right there in the service info: that it would need to be programmed even if it was current. Kinda of a sh^tty design. Seems like the dealer should have to do that as a recall or something; since the code is tripped, yet there's nothing actually wrong with the car. Never buy a volt-- that's what I've learned. lol
"contactor" in this language is referring to a "big relay" the computer controls to connect the HV battery to the vehicle. It is not a service disconnect.
@@volvo09 Yes a contactor is typically a large multi-contact relay but if the computer is seeing it as NOT open when it should be then why not pull the service disconnect and try to reset the codes.
Maybe you can help me too. Looking to purchase a 2013 Volt, won't charge, dealership said cells 1 3 and 4 are low. Looked at car today. 12v battery dead, jumped battery with running car and now fob works and display reads service high voltage system. HV level shows 0%. Dealership pulled HV isolation code. Vehicle has been sitting since last November. Could it just need a 12v battery and a program? Thanks in advance for your help! I'm a mechanic former GM dealership but never worked on these Volts.
First, the coolant level was not full. Should be to the top of the black label or the problem may return. Second, it is a 2012, which has a coolant level sensor spliced in by the dealership. These get corroded over time and need cut and soldered.
I'm there now. I have a Volt 2012. Let it sit for 7 months in Oregon, rainy climate. Possibly messed up my sensors. $1,000 bill today for nothing at a Chevy Dealer. They wound up clearing the codes and put in a 12 volt battery replacement. Not much return on that -- said I' need a new HV battery if the codes return, yet none of the cells are defective. Low coolant good. He missed something.
Incase you didn't know when you pull the door handle the hybrid battery starts charging the 12V battery if sitting a long time the battery could be low so what happened is you got in your car and pressed the blue start button right away or too fast, should have waited for the dash to show READY at that time the 12V battery has the voltage boosted up to the mandatory voltage. Supper important the voltage is up before pressing the blue button. Because the fluid sensor in the hybrid battery reservoir sends a message to the module under the passenger seat to disable charging.
My Chevy Volt 2012 with 105000 miles was charging as usual, last week the charger showed red light and I’ve got an engine light on. I brought it to the garage, no diagnostic was given. they said it could be a faulty charger cable. I tried to charge with other cable at a public ev charger and it also went red. It doesn’t charge. I suspect it might be the charging port since the battery doesn’t run low in volts and keeps regen. I am about to order a new charging port for a diy repair, the new part costs about €315 (340 usd) to import here in Europe, however, I am afraid i will have to bring it to a dealer to reprogram if the error doesnt clear, which might cost a lot. And I can only hope that changing the port will solve the issue. Any ideas or suggestions before I get myself into the challenge?
How much is the programming fee? And where did you download the program? As i want the same stuff lol. At least the Volt has some power back lol. It's now volting!! Hahaha. Great job Ivan. Sounds complicated to diagnose it when it's requires programming!!
@@charliemagoo7943 Fair point.. But it's just the point that it's tripping codes when there's nothing actually wrong. It just magically fixed itself, and now the only "issue" is: You can't delete the false code. What a joke.
@@GerardPinzone Go watch "Munro Live" or "weber auto" if you want to really break down and learn the internals. There is a lot of good stuff on those channels.
pouch cells are _hermetically_ sealed in an aluminized plastic film - you would have to rupture the film for coolant to get in (that's IF there actually was an internal coolant leak). that said, I really hope future tech will eliminate the need for water cooling except for some specialized high performance applications. The Leaf only uses air cooling for its batteries - but historically, this proved problematic to longevity.
@@ivantuma7969 They used NO COOLING at all on the 2011-2017 Leaf. That's why their batteries degrade so quickly. Unless you want a car for around town (20-40 miles range) don't buy an older Leaf because they will all degrade to that point long before 100,000 miles. Unless you live on a glacier I guess.
You can buy data from AC Delco yourself, about $50. for one vin number and is good for two years, your have to have a computer or laptop cable hook ups and then your choice as to the tool to plug into the OBD2 port many options, I bought the cheap china one and had problems with it and their tech team finally went on line and helped.
This video is a perfect example of why I am never buying an electric car. Almost anything to do with the high voltage systems requires online programming and several manufactures do not even make the tools or software available outside of the dealer network at all. They use "safety" as they reason why they say non-dealer repair shops are not allowed to work on HV repairs
Just waiting for all these car to get a bit more mainstream and older then the DIY repairers getting into them, fires, burns and anchors will be a plenty.
Hi , man how I can contact with You. I have own Chevy volt2 and have same issues with my HV battery. Before techline was affordable, right now in Europe I have problems with reprogramming this modules. Can You help me with this ??
I love your videos and your work Ivan, but I get a little restless when you scroll back and forth looking for codes and descriptions. Cant't you just press (CTRL+F) and type in what you are looking for in the search field? Or maybe it is not possible ???
Hes working from a scanner with a unique, proprietary program. Im not sure what OS his system uses, my cheapo scanner runs from android 5.1.1. You may be correct, im not sure. some people like scrolling, some have all the control functions memorized
Good grief! That's insane.. have to program it to clear it? 🤦♂️ Good ol GM. Well, sometimes you need to visit a junkyard for parts, why not programming too.
I used to love GM products, but not anymore. My last was a Cadillac. Full of electronic glitches. Never again! Just don't need the constant "Dealer Headaches".... and expenses!
mine for lithium or drill for oil/gas ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ... there are vast "badlands" in the US with accessible lithium deposits (permitting is another matter) - but unlike gasoline, the Lithium can be recycled for new batteries in the future. As far as generating electricity - it depends on where you live and each locations combined grid fuel mix. Even in ~100% coal burning areas, the amount of produced CO2, NOx and CO is still less when sourced from a grid's combined cycle powerplant running at 60% thermal efficiency rather than running a 20% efficient gasoline engine 100% of the time. Next gen nuclear would end most of this speculation, but...
Hey Ivan, I'm a little late to the party as usual, but I was just wondering why you didn't check the battery drain since you had to do the reprogramming anyway? I'm not trying to be a dick, just wondering. Another great video as always! 👍🏻
There have been some cars I've seen that have solely just needed a programming or a software update to get the vehicle running. I am not against software updates but if the system is rigged to force drivers to into getting updates whether they like it or not, I don't think that's really fair. I speculate they might be de-flashing random people's ECUs through the Sirius XM radios or something (not speaking for this case study).
So the problem, is basically from the vehicle sitting too long and not being driven, causing the error code that could not be cleared without reprogramming...
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I often work on these cars. They're pretty easy once you learn what you're doing. Unless I'm missing something, you never checked if the coolant level sensor was faulty before trying to clear the code or flashing the module. I've gotten burned on that before. Also, needing to reprogram the module to clear the code is a bug in the software that GM never fixed. It wasn't designed that way. They were just too cheap to get their engineers to write new software that fixes the glitch.
Indeed. You can literally trigger this issue just by pushing the float down with your finger in the HV coolant surge tank. Sometimes, I hate GM. EDIT: LOL! Still watching the video and I just got to the part where he checked for the updated tank with an anti-tamper cap. Is that really GM’s solution?! ;)
Is why I will never own another GM
So there's a "bug" in the software and yet GM doesn't fix it. I'll never be a customer again! Never!
@@Ram14250 it’s by design so it’s not a bug. They were scared of battery fires and huge warranty/recall expense if they don’t disable charging and the coolant leaks into the cells. There are coolant fins between every cell so there is plenty of opportunity for a leak. Of course, they got all the fires and warranty recalls they could handle with the Bolt EV but it wasn’t their fault (one single robot at LG was miscalibrated).
My issue with the design is that it isn’t more robust and resistant to tampering, plus, it can trigger for no reason even if it isn’t caused by a curious finger bumping the float in the surge tank. Heck, imagine if the whole car turned upside-down! Every system would trigger.
@@mikefoehr235 damn right
My 2012 GM/Holden volt did this about 18 months ago not long after it had a full coolant replacement by GM/Holden dealer. A Google search showed this to be a common issue. I simply added about 100ml of dex-cool to the “anti-tamper” tank (coolant line above side sticker) then reset the trouble code. No problems since with approx 20,000km and stored outside.
I love the Volt, best car I’ve owned and driven with 100ml of coolant being the only maintenance issue. I’ve just bought a second 2012 and looking at buying a third for the family.
Great fix Ivan, this really demonstrates the importance of technical information. Without that Tsb this fault would be nearly impossible to fix. Keep up the great work i really enjoyed this one!
Did you watch it with your shirt off and hair all messed up! That’s the only way I can watch a PHAD video and really enjoy it.
That’s a joke as I’m remembering your blooper when you imitated all of Ivan’s mannerisms perfectly.
Absolutely agree, Dan! With so many complicated systems out there, good information is EVERYTHING! 🙂
The best PHEV ever made that no one knows about. GM was way ahead of their time with this one. The Prius Prime of its day. Too bad they killed it. Good on you for taking it on and good work as usual.
Iono if I'd go THAT far about it being the best.. it's a GM product. Was it good?. Absolutely.. but the best is a real big stretch..
But it was the only GM product I was ever interested in, and that says a lot!
@@dizzy2020 20+ years making the Prius... Explain how that's a rule dodger..
Also the Prius has the engine connected to the wheels. It's called a transmission..
90k miles…sets a code when nothing is actually faulty…to clear said code so car will work again, you have to pay GM AND a mechanic to reprogram modules…YEAH…Best ever made….NOT. Btw, I have some real estate to sell ya 😂
@@vg3430 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Liberals killed it. No one wants a woke car that tells them they are homophobic.
I am impressed of your skill and tenacity to complete a job you take on. I don't always get what you are doing but still find it fun to follow!
Thanks Charlie! Last thing I want to tell a customer is "take it to the dealer" 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics so dealer can be part canon....!!! no more liability!
Congrats to the owner for finding you. He got lucky on this, some dealers would have gone crazy even w/ TSB on hand.
TSB are only good if people read them. When was the last time anyone of us read anything technical or even the back of a box of cereal?
As usual , logic , correct information , and a talented tech who enjoys learning and a challenge
Ivan staying on the cutting edge of automobile technology. Impressive !
Thank you Ivan your videos are always great! All of us especially appreciate the programming shown in the videos! Rock on Big Ivan!!
So Toyota has the Triangle of death and GM has a coolant tank and software issue, both are luckily repairable. Just have to be like Ivan and sort thru the maze of bulletins, description of operation and wiring diagrams, easy. :)
Nice work Ivan!
Да , на моделях 2011-2012 года, на которых датчик уровня был доустановлен, ошибка P1FFF сбрасывается при sps программировании. На поздних можно уже через диагностику. Если ошибка по низкому сопротивлению изоляции будет повторятся и нет утечки антифриза в батарею - необходимо заменить подогреватель антифриза, он находится в батарее.
Привет. А где ты находишься? Ты живёшь в Америке?
@@viktormostovyy3145 Да
IVAN,
YOU ARE ON THE TOP OF YOUR TRADE WILL EQUIPPED TO THE LIMIT; WITH ALL YOUR NEEDS TO DO A BETTER JOB THAN MOST PROFESSIONAL SERVICES IN THE INDUSTRIES.
YOU HAVE A GREAT KNOWLEDGE TO BE NUMBER ONE. VERY IMPRESSIVE.
EVs are weird! And a whole new range of (expensive) problems come with them - reprogram a module to clear a DTC? Good job, Ivan!
I work in the marine industry as an electronics tech and youd be surprised how many times we have to reload software to clear a latched fault. poor software code writing and laziness of the companies to update the program.
@@sparkyobrian6417 Yep. It sure seems like laziness (or greed - why spend more money in development?).
This is awesome work! Молодець! :)
A couple of suggestions if I may:
-- tilt the laptop screen down to reduce reflections and glare;
-- press F11 in the browser to go full screen to show more content and reduce scrolling.
Hope you get a chance to work on more plug-ins. The owners could really use your help.
All is completely over my head yet both daunting and intriguing. My overall reaction is you are more detective then anything else. Way to go Sherlock! :)
Awesome video Ivan. It's great that you're touching EV stuff. Keep them coming because in just a few more years we'll see a lot more of these cars.
Ivan, i ran into this 6 months ago and it was a 2012. The Level Sensor was faulty, the customer replaced the level sensor and bought it back to me to clear the DTC, of course it would not clear. I told them they needed to make an appointment with Chevy to clear it.
Had one with the same code, reflash the module and all good. Great video
You're a legend. Please don't turn into an advertisement for a virtual private network
What's a virtual private network? Like IATN?
The Volt is a great car . My friend bought a used one about 7 years ago and he has had zero faults. Odd they stopped making them.
Honestly I would take one over a Prius since it won't leave you stranded with an
EV trouble code... And you can charge it from the wall 😁
GM stopped making them because they went full electric with the Bolt.
@@n9wox
It was because the Volt was very expensive to make, and the government was applying pressure to go full EV.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
I would die before driving a prius pile.
It is a great car.
I bought one in ‘19, when I heard they stopped making one.
It’s been fantastic.
You can use the shvcs defeat plug to deal w/ the coolant level sensor to bypass it, but reprogramming is still required.
Software updates to fix problem. The not so new way to fix vehicles.
Good one Ivan.
Ivan, this made me a bit nervous just watching. You're working in an area of expertise very foreign to me and it's a bit fearful seeing what automotive repair has become. Not quite like the days when you listened to the vehicle run, adjusted the carburetor a bit, and sent a satisfied customer down the road. Thanks for Sharing! P.S. I didn't even see you use any hand cleaner once the job was done!
Before even watching the video I want to warn you you have to flash HPCM2 to clear faults. Their is a TSB for like along with the isolation fault
Thanks for the warning 🤣
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah ots hard to explain to the customer. So in a few months when the water pump on the frame next the the harmonic balancer fails you have to reprogram to clear faults again
Those Chevrolet VOLT vehicles have a very common failure on the HV Battery coolant reservoir level sensor. When the sensor goes bad, it locks the charging system to the HV battery. You have to replace the level sensor on the reservoir, or also is the option to bypass it. Very common failure on this vehicles.
It’s on the early Volts, 1st generation.
Very easy to fix though.
And this is the Future of cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First EV and looking good.
At least you can do the programming and it's not that expensive - many manufacturers have this sort of crap as "dealer only". Plus you have access to the service docs through AllData (and they seem pretty good). For some manufacturers (I'm looking at you BMW) you can't even get the service data, only through their software, which costs $$$$ - or you just pirate it which is what most people do (see your Maserati series...)
There is always someone out there that will find a hack for every system .Just got to throw it on the web & somebody will grapple with it & find a work around.
Wow! Great video...just pulled both of these codes on my 2015 Volt I live in CA and I understand that we get a 10 years 150K warrantee, Q> would reprogramming be covered under warrantee at the dealer? Love to find a person like you near Los Angeles, CA you make sense of everything.
Good job Ivan, always impressed with what you can do. Two thumbs up.
PHAD: (posts video on a broken/disabled EV)
The RUclips Algorithm: "I know JUST what to do with YOU!" (inserts ad for Lexus EVs)
Thanks for learning me something. What did the programming cost? I pay 42.9 euro +21% vat, so around 50 for peugeot/citroen (PSA Europe)
Similar price here
Great job as always, better to pay ur programing fee than GM, what about a charging fee? im sure u just did a quick test to see it works
Where may I ask did you get your training as you are very thorough? Oh, I just found your shop and the education and your self interests and need for the hands on and that you found your niche in electro mechanical repair as your bushiness. Very good, Ivan. I kind of thought it may have been close to what I did.
I have had this issue on my 2023 Volt and I just cleared all the DTCs with my 500 dollar scan tool bought on Amazon.
Which one did you buy?
I wonder if that is to keep people from getting a code scanner and continuously resetting the code when there really is a problem resulting in battery damage and possible fire.
If you have an EV or hybrid, do not under any circumstance mess with the batteries unless you are a professional. If they go into thermal runaway you will be very sorry.
That's what I figured, and it's exactly what I'd do.
Sure, that's why 😏
_Louis Rossmann has entered the chat_
Let's hope that manufacturers publish full service information, as they do now with every other car on the road. I've yet to see a service procedure that couldn't be conducted by any person capable of reading and following instructions. I don't expect that to be different with EV's, but if it is then there will be no end of the horror stories even among professional technicians.
Yeppers...the diesels of that era had permanent codes that could not clear with scan tool or global reset. The computer has to run and pass the code for it to clear. Reprogramming doesn't clear it either
Absolutely.
My question is did the reprogram actually update to a new version or just overwrote with the same version?
After reading through a lot of the comments it would seem to be a inherant glitch built in to be a saftey feature albeit a very costly one to rectify.(Also to keep stealerships in the money loop.)
Is there any idea what caused the fault besides sitting around for two months?
I hadn't thought about that. Do the hybrids keep TWO set of numbers for how many miles each engine uses?
i think that any manufacturer that has a update to fix known faults the update should be free as they could set up a timer on every car to get money from customers ie held to ransom soon as it is known they fix for free then they loose they may get better reliability first time
Hey Ivan after going through that whole fiasco with having to reprogram to clear codes, what is you take on owning one of these???
Definitely not my bag lol
Nice video and diagnosis. I guess you better learn all you can on those electric cars since they are getting older and problems are showing up.
Good job, lots of technology you had to use. You are the best.
Relocate the sensor from under the reservoir and wire it up next to the HPCM2. you can locate the two wires with your multi meter set to continuity or buzz and they will be next to each other on connector. The problem with the car is the LONG thin wire to the sensor when powered up is only 3.5 volts on the power side and connected to a 24K ohms resistor " way too much" and the module is looking for a voltage drop to disable charging, module is made to not charge once voltage drop is detected. They made this circuit so the module would be looking for a voltage drop on a supply of only 0.00014 amps. come on GM ... If you put the sensor under the passenger seat keep an eye on the tank level for leaks. PS the dealer had my car 3 times and couldn't fix it there next step they said would be $2200.00 to drop the battery and check the modules.
WOW...awesome job and video it was a learning experience for me..and another reason why I still have my vehicle...
Similar issue happened to my best friends dad's car. 2012 volt. Had him bring it by the shop, he told me this is the third time it happened to him, first two GM covered, third one was out of warranty. He only had the coolant level fault along with the contractor opened from the fault code. Coolant level sensor read something like 1.2kohm when low, 6.8kohm when at the correct level. Not your standard closed circuit when low, open when at the right level. The magnetic float internal to the tank had gotten coolant in it, replaced the tank because of the float, and ran into the same problem. Couldn't clear the code, I couldn't reprogram it at the time from not having the hardware, and still had to send him to GM to get the module reprogrammed after the repair. Never had to reprogram a module from a bad coolant float before. Just ridiculous.
In the beginning the factory was not building them like this where the code could not be cleared, The Gov. stepped in and required they be made like this to prevent the battery from catching fire. Did it ever help one of these cars not burn hell no.
@@portagepete1 🤔 Interesting, was it nhtsa that stepped in on this or was it another agency?
SAVE THE SPS CAL FILES IN THE SPS CACHE FOLDER then you can use Gm DPS to program any other car and you don’t have to pay gm any money if you want to program a different VIN BUT THE SAME MODUEL you can use the cal files to create a archive file for programming. in the cache file will be “for this ECU 3 bin files” 2 of which are the cal files which is stuff like boot and operational software the other is called a utility files it acts like a instruction set for dps to program that specific module
It can also do other cool stuff with type4 like odo correction 😉
Very interesting
whats the path of that cache dir?
Thats crazy that you absolutely have to take your car to a dealership in order to reset a check engine code. But that's no software bug. That's job security right there.
How is this not covered under the lemon law. They still can't fix it after all these years.....
When you tried to reset the codes with the scan tool and it couldn't do it because it said "High Voltage Battery Circuit Contactor Not Open" do you think that means you needed to pull the high voltage disconnect and then see if it would reset. Just a thought.
I think it's just referring to the insulation resistance, where it had to be above 325k ohms (or whatever it was). and the live data said it's now 3000k ohms, so it is actually "open". But I do agree with your question, because why is the special function even there if you can never use it anyway, and have to get it programmed? Pretty strange. I'm not doubting his choice to program it though, because it did say right there in the service info: that it would need to be programmed even if it was current. Kinda of a sh^tty design. Seems like the dealer should have to do that as a recall or something; since the code is tripped, yet there's nothing actually wrong with the car. Never buy a volt-- that's what I've learned. lol
"contactor" in this language is referring to a "big relay" the computer controls to connect the HV battery to the vehicle. It is not a service disconnect.
@@volvo09 Yes a contactor is typically a large multi-contact relay but if the computer is seeing it as NOT open when it should be then why not pull the service disconnect and try to reset the codes.
@@737mechanic I have tried that before. Doesn't clear it. Even disconnected 12v battery.
GM should not charge for an software update for that fix. From the TSB standpoint, sounds like a known problem that GM wants to collect on.
LOLOLOL
They aren’t the only ones who do it, and I had to pay to have a Ford software update and be re-programmed.
Good repair Ivan
Maybe you can help me too. Looking to purchase a 2013 Volt, won't charge, dealership said cells 1 3 and 4 are low. Looked at car today. 12v battery dead, jumped battery with running car and now fob works and display reads service high voltage system. HV level shows 0%. Dealership pulled HV isolation code. Vehicle has been sitting since last November.
Could it just need a 12v battery and a program?
Thanks in advance for your help! I'm a mechanic former GM dealership but never worked on these Volts.
First, the coolant level was not full. Should be to the top of the black label or the problem may return. Second, it is a 2012, which has a coolant level sensor spliced in by the dealership. These get corroded over time and need cut and soldered.
That's crazy, but well done!
I'm there now. I have a Volt 2012. Let it sit for 7 months in Oregon, rainy climate. Possibly messed up my sensors. $1,000 bill today for nothing at a Chevy Dealer. They wound up clearing the codes and put in a 12 volt battery replacement. Not much return on that -- said I' need a new HV battery if the codes return, yet none of the cells are defective. Low coolant good. He missed something.
Dealers are useless lol...Did they not follow the TSB??
Incase you didn't know when you pull the door handle the hybrid battery starts charging the 12V battery if sitting a long time the battery could be low so what happened is you got in your car and pressed the blue start button right away or too fast, should have waited for the dash to show READY at that time the 12V battery has the voltage boosted up to the mandatory voltage. Supper important the voltage is up before pressing the blue button. Because the fluid sensor in the hybrid battery reservoir sends a message to the module under the passenger seat to disable charging.
My Chevy Volt 2012 with 105000 miles was charging as usual, last week the charger showed red light and I’ve got an engine light on. I brought it to the garage, no diagnostic was given. they said it could be a faulty charger cable. I tried to charge with other cable at a public ev charger and it also went red. It doesn’t charge. I suspect it might be the charging port since the battery doesn’t run low in volts and keeps regen. I am about to order a new charging port for a diy repair, the new part costs about €315 (340 usd) to import here in Europe, however, I am afraid i will have to bring it to a dealer to reprogram if the error doesnt clear, which might cost a lot. And I can only hope that changing the port will solve the issue. Any ideas or suggestions before I get myself into the challenge?
Since the problem was in the programming, the only way to fix it was reprogramming, makes sense.
I have a 2011 that won’t display the mileage, any help would be appreciated.
Can you keep the module file to reflash next time?
I wouldn't have thought that would go through with the Engine running, I guess you found that out as you turned it off half way through programming?!
I was told to consider the module a electronic breaker and like any breaker it must be turned off before being turned on
How did you get tech2?
How much is the programming fee? And where did you download the program? As i want the same stuff lol. At least the Volt has some power back lol. It's now volting!! Hahaha. Great job Ivan. Sounds complicated to diagnose it when it's requires programming!!
Wow.. They should have to do that update for free, as a recall or something. This is ridiculous.
When would the warranty stop?? This thing is 10 years old.
@@charliemagoo7943 Fair point.. But it's just the point that it's tripping codes when there's nothing actually wrong. It just magically fixed itself, and now the only "issue" is: You can't delete the false code. What a joke.
It would be interesting if you worked on some fully-electric cars. I'd like to see what kinds of issues they have once the warranty expires.
Go look up "rich rebuilds"
@@calholli He's not working on them as much as he used to. His battery repair videos were great.
@@GerardPinzone Go watch "Munro Live" or "weber auto" if you want to really break down and learn the internals. There is a lot of good stuff on those channels.
@calholli Yes, but I would like to seexwhat goes bad and how to fix it.
What kind of scan tool do you have?
I'm looking for a scan tool to reprogram keys, ECU, and EV like you're. Can I have the model number of yours please.
A Volt can identify as a "regular car?" Too bad a Prius can't do that. Great video!
Too bad a Honda Ridgeline can't identify as a pickup truck.
@@pantherplatform Or a Ford Maverick.
Good point! If Prius has an EV fault, you're WALKING lol!
You would think the lithium and coolant might cause a uncontrollable chemical heat reaction ?
pouch cells are _hermetically_ sealed in an aluminized plastic film - you would have to rupture the film for coolant to get in (that's IF there actually was an internal coolant leak). that said, I really hope future tech will eliminate the need for water cooling except for some specialized high performance applications. The Leaf only uses air cooling for its batteries - but historically, this proved problematic to longevity.
@@ivantuma7969 They used NO COOLING at all on the 2011-2017 Leaf. That's why their batteries degrade so quickly.
Unless you want a car for around town (20-40 miles range) don't buy an older Leaf because they will all degrade to that point long before 100,000 miles.
Unless you live on a glacier I guess.
@@loungelizard836 I did mention "The Leaf only uses air cooling for its batteries - but historically, this proved problematic to longevity."
How we as diy folks be able to get the programs from oem?
You can buy data from AC Delco yourself, about $50. for one vin number and is good for two years, your have to have a computer or laptop cable hook ups and then your choice as to the tool to plug into the OBD2 port many options, I bought the cheap china one and had problems with it and their tech team finally went on line and helped.
Leaking coolant on between the cells?
Only on 2011 model but that was fixed.
This video is a perfect example of why I am never buying an electric car. Almost anything to do with the high voltage systems requires online programming and several manufactures do not even make the tools or software available outside of the dealer network at all. They use "safety" as they reason why they say non-dealer repair shops are not allowed to work on HV repairs
If you are older then 80 years you can drive your old fossil to the end👏
@@wimphilipsen2651 only half that, but I'm still driving my fossil fuel vehicle to the end 😂
@@arcadeuk
👍 good luck from the Netherland
@@wimphilipsen2651drink much koolaid?
@@vg3430 not at all.
Just waiting for all these car to get a bit more mainstream and older then the DIY repairers getting into them, fires, burns and anchors will be a plenty.
Hi , man how I can contact with You. I have own Chevy volt2 and have same issues with my HV battery. Before techline was affordable, right now in Europe I have problems with reprogramming this modules. Can You help me with this ??
I needed help with that, AC Delco can come online and help after you pay them for the data to do the reprograming.
I love your videos and your work Ivan, but I get a little restless when you scroll back and forth looking for codes and descriptions. Cant't you just press (CTRL+F) and type in what you are looking for in the search field? Or maybe it is not possible ???
Hes working from a scanner with a unique, proprietary program. Im not sure what OS his system uses, my cheapo scanner runs from android 5.1.1. You may be correct, im not sure. some people like scrolling, some have all the control functions memorized
OK OK next time I'll use the search function haha
Good grief!
That's insane.. have to program it to clear it? 🤦♂️
Good ol GM. Well, sometimes you need to visit a junkyard for parts, why not programming too.
I used to love GM products, but not anymore. My last was a Cadillac. Full of electronic glitches. Never again! Just don't need the constant "Dealer Headaches".... and expenses!
Anyone knows what is the Flash Programming Voltage for a 2013 Mustang GT?
A very green car except for the mining of lithium and generating electricity to charge it 😆
mine for lithium or drill for oil/gas ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ... there are vast "badlands" in the US with accessible lithium deposits (permitting is another matter) - but unlike gasoline, the Lithium can be recycled for new batteries in the future. As far as generating electricity - it depends on where you live and each locations combined grid fuel mix. Even in ~100% coal burning areas, the amount of produced CO2, NOx and CO is still less when sourced from a grid's combined cycle powerplant running at 60% thermal efficiency rather than running a 20% efficient gasoline engine 100% of the time. Next gen nuclear would end most of this speculation, but...
Charge by solar panels.
Thanks Ivan!
the fluid level for battery is to low buliton on that hit a bump it can set code
I just got these two codes on my 2013, and it would not charge. I was able to reset the codes with my Bluedriver and now the car charges.
Where are you located?
Hey Ivan, I'm a little late to the party as usual, but I was just wondering why you didn't check the battery drain since you had to do the reprogramming anyway? I'm not trying to be a dick, just wondering. Another great video as always! 👍🏻
With batteries and water/coolant gmc is erroring on the side of caution…
Good Kieth question?
There have been some cars I've seen that have solely just needed a programming or a software update to get the vehicle running. I am not against software updates but if the system is rigged to force drivers to into getting updates whether they like it or not, I don't think that's really fair. I speculate they might be de-flashing random people's ECUs through the Sirius XM radios or something (not speaking for this case study).
Yea, if you have a VW you probably can't even drive by a dealer or your better software version is screwed.
It is good to show how to re-program if the Brac is reset by mistake
Great video! Does anyone know someone in Minnesota that can do that ? (Outside of a dealer)
can you tell me where I can get tech line conect thanks
Google is your friend lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ok I have not had luck there are bad people who sell software no work very good
They have a $120 bare bones tool for use w a phone perfect. Thinkdiag OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth
Mr Ivan is there a way I could somehow get a hold of you? Really would like your help.
Honestly I’d appreciate that very much
Good morning all.
What happened after 3 months?!
Coolant level is still low. It’s suppose to be above the black sticker.
So the problem, is basically from the vehicle sitting too long and not being driven, causing the error code that could not be cleared without reprogramming...
Mines a daily driver and did it
i had this happen and they replaced the coolant sensor. fixed the issue
You got lucky 😄
It’s all about the money
Self identification is the thing these days 😀
Ha! Yeah, I personally identify as "what the hell has the world come to?"
This car identifies as an EV and a traditional ICE vehicle and a Hybrid. It’s fluid!
I identify as a bald man, which is why I'm pulling my hair out as we speak.