Hello Mike, I'm James, of Anchorage Alaska. If I may, your plastic form holder is too thick. Also, you may actually want to seal the felt stripping with some kind of rubber or acrylic strips to create a better seal. The vacuum should be just a bit more robust and your 2 vacuum system would work sufficiently if you sealed the edge of your vacuum chamber former by placing rubber or acrylic strips around the edge. Even black electrical tape would provide the improved vacuum seal you require. The webbing that occurred around the edge of the hexagonal pieces is because the plastic form frame is too proud. The closer you can pull the plastic down over your shapes for the forming, the better the results will be. It isn't how strong the vacuum pressure is, but rather, how efficiently it is used. The less air that has to be drawn and removed to make the mold, the better and more efficient it will work and you will have far less problems with "webbing" from unwanted plastic not forming as you intend. Cut your plastic top that you use for heating your plastic by about 1/3rd, or 1/2 and your results should improve. The reason this will make your system more efficient is because there will be far less air to draw out to create the vacuum seal. The combination of less airflow and a better seal will yield better results. I learned a great deal watching your video. I studied and learned quite a lot about vacuum forming and someone who actually does it explained some of these steps to me. I am thinking about making my own vacuum forming system for a model building project I'm working on. Great video, great and useful information. Thank you! Regards, James, Anchorage Alaska
I need to make one for Forming Windows from a Totaled '55 Chevy Promo and for a Tom Daniel '60 Chevy S.D.. I hate the Red Windows with the Cargo area Sunroof. It's not so much the Sunroof as it is the the Color. I don't mind the showing off the Blanket I made for the S.D's Cargo floor. I got the 55's ready. Does this work for the Evergreen and Plastruct Clear?
The wrinkle is from overheating the plastic first set a timer for the melt time this will get the proper temp of the plastic each time. Then you know decrease the melt time this will get rid of the wrinkles in the plastic.
Another possibility for the wrinkles is to smooth the plastic out over the buck as it is forming. Essentially working out the wrinkles before it forms completely. I've seen plenty of examples of folks doing that. They wear heavy leather gloves and work the wrinkles out of the plastic by lightly pressing the plastic against the buck - it is a way to make sure that the plastic is molding every nook and cranny of the buck.
I`m wondering if the more pieces made the less chance of having a seam might come up short though per piece ,Possible --Seems easy enough to do though good vid .
try one at a time that should take care of the wrinkles also with practice try slamming the frame down without any side to side movement and you'll have flawless copies.
Momentary Power Foot Switch from harbor freight with 3-Way Grounded Adapter you can put both vacs on and just step on the pedal and all will work together!
Nice tutorial, thanks! A couple of suggestions: 1. Cut four pieces of angle aluminum and mount these at the four corners of your vacuum box (sticking up perhaps 3 inches or so above the surface of the box). This would make it so your plastic frame will always fit down on the vacuum box precisely. 2. Consider rubber strips/weather stripping (flat "gasket" type) instead of felt for a better seal. 3. More separation of your bucks on the vacuum frame should help to eliminate those wrinkles.
A hot air gun might be useful to get rid of the webbing parts, just apply hot air to the webbed parts while the plastic is forming, it might be hard to orchestrate getting the hot air gun warmed up along with the rest of the process...
Hi, I managed to find your video from looking around for ages for a simple solution to vacuum forming at home. this was a really clear video and very easy to follow what you were up to. Glad I found this to help with my projects :)
Nice video and project. Instead of a 2nd vacuum, did you consider a heat gun? Even with what you have, its a nice addition that will give you lots of control and detail.
Hi,I'm living in Seoul South Korea,I'm from uropygial &i really need to make some samples can you let me know if the PVC plastic can work...or should b better a different one.thanks for your video ,I'm waiting just what kind of plastic to use your vacuum former.really helpfull1
Any kind of plastic will work in a vac forming table. It all depends on the individual properties and thickness of the specific plastic that determines how well the plastic will form. Plastics like HIPS (high impact polystyrene), Styrene and great for fine detail, but lack sufficient density to make for a long lasting formed piece. The stuff can be real brittle and rip like paper. ABS forms details pretty well - not nearly as well as HIPS - but it is a denser plastic and will take a bit more punishment and keep its shape. PVC plastic, foam board, Sintra and the like (as I have been told by a friend of mine) forms ok if it is block shapes lacking any kind of great detail. He tried to form a ball, I think, and the Sintra didn't form all that well. Of course, it also depends on the thickness of the plastic you are using. I'm a Star Wars costumer, so the thickness we are talking about is roughly 1/8 of an inch, or .093 of thickness. Most stormtrooper armor is molded in .093 ABS.
The molds should be secured down maybe a good double face tape under each one. The holes are a little too large and it is general necessary to have tiny holes at the base of each mold this will eliminate the webbing by removing the air around the base..
what was the thickness of the styrene piece you used for this video? Can you use thicker pieces, or would it be better to just stick to a specific thickness for Vacuforming?
That's a pretty sweet set up. :) I would love to make one but I think silicone molding may be easier for me to keep doing. I also don't think I could do this as I have a gas oven with flames and not an electric oven. If I ever change my mind though I will definitely refer back to this video. :D - Heidi
+BlackCat2 You can use your oven. I've seen these heated up with propane torches. If you look on Jimmy Diresta's youtube channel he uses two torches to heat up his. Take care.
They have a nice rig here I bought and works great. Very good definition and good draw down, high temp silicone holsterformer.com/product/17-5-in-x-26-in-vacuum-former/
Good way to show me how to do what I needed. Thanks
Hello Mike,
I'm James, of Anchorage Alaska. If I may, your plastic form holder is too thick. Also, you may actually want to seal the felt stripping with some kind of rubber or acrylic strips to create a better seal. The vacuum should be just a bit more robust and your 2 vacuum system would work sufficiently if you sealed the edge of your vacuum chamber former by placing rubber or acrylic strips around the edge. Even black electrical tape would provide the improved vacuum seal you require.
The webbing that occurred around the edge of the hexagonal pieces is because the plastic form frame is too proud. The closer you can pull the plastic down over your shapes for the forming, the better the results will be. It isn't how strong the vacuum pressure is, but rather, how efficiently it is used. The less air that has to be drawn and removed to make the mold, the better and more efficient it will work and you will have far less problems with "webbing" from unwanted plastic not forming as you intend. Cut your plastic top that you use for heating your plastic by about 1/3rd, or 1/2 and your results should improve.
The reason this will make your system more efficient is because there will be far less air to draw out to create the vacuum seal. The combination of less airflow and a better seal will yield better results. I learned a great deal watching your video. I studied and learned quite a lot about vacuum forming and someone who actually does it explained some of these steps to me. I am thinking about making my own vacuum forming system for a model building project I'm working on. Great video, great and useful information. Thank you!
Regards,
James, Anchorage Alaska
Thanks for the added info. Add all the info up and I get a very good picture of how it should be done.
You should prob make it clear that the oven you melt this plastic in should not be the over you are using to make food in.
Á ýýjoppp
I need to make one for Forming Windows from a Totaled '55 Chevy Promo and for a Tom Daniel '60 Chevy S.D.. I hate the Red Windows with the Cargo area Sunroof. It's not so much the Sunroof as it is the the Color.
I don't mind the showing off the Blanket I made for the S.D's Cargo floor.
I got the 55's ready.
Does this work for the Evergreen and Plastruct Clear?
The wrinkle is from overheating the plastic first set a timer for the melt time this will get the proper temp of the plastic each time. Then you know decrease the melt time this will get rid of the wrinkles in the plastic.
Thanks! Yet another trick add to the toolbox for when I need it. Sometimes just knowing it's possible is half the battle.
And if u ask blister companies for a few pieces they charge you with thousands of dollars. Somebody explain me why🙄
Nice work! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
Don't use styrene in ovens you use for food! This dudes oven is useless to cook on now.
kermit the frog is into vacuum forming, who knew?
I think you may be leaving the plastic in to long
Did you consider putting the vacuums in series? In theory that should give you much better pressure drop.
where do you get sheets for thermoforming? Does anybody know?
Need more holes buddy! That'll get rid of the webbing.
How do you find the pvc/styrene smells when indoors?
Another possibility for the wrinkles is to smooth the plastic out over the buck as it is forming. Essentially working out the wrinkles before it forms completely. I've seen plenty of examples of folks doing that. They wear heavy leather gloves and work the wrinkles out of the plastic by lightly pressing the plastic against the buck - it is a way to make sure that the plastic is molding every nook and cranny of the buck.
This video helps me a lot. I want to know, where I could buy the plastic to make the mold?
if you are just using these plastic molds to make a plaster piece, why would you need to make a whole bunch of them?
At the time I needed a bunch of those plaster pieces. So I made several molds and could pour plaster in them all at once.
hello friend , it is also commen for vacuum formers to drill holes into the molds themselfs to increase the force on tight areas
far from the holes
Welp...I shall be going to Lowes after work today.
Your holes are too big! Trust me, I'm an industrial designer. Have done this many many times!
What could it effect? Smaller holes allows to better vacuum?
why not mold 4
Thankyou sir for making this video.....
You give us an better future....
Thankyou really appreciated
I`m wondering if the more pieces made the less chance of having a seam might come up short though per piece ,Possible --Seems easy enough to do though good vid .
try one at a time that should take care of the wrinkles also with practice try slamming the frame down without any side to side movement and you'll have flawless copies.
BORNAGAIN4111611KJB
Your vacuum box is a bit shallow. Will the vacuum be stronger if the box is deeper, say double or triple the height? Just wondering.
Your webbing will be reduced or eliminated if you had a little less suction. It is webbing before it has a chance to draw down.
Momentary Power Foot Switch from harbor freight with 3-Way Grounded Adapter you can put both vacs on and just step on the pedal and all will work together!
Trabajo de mala calidad y mucha carreta. Falta mejorar la Tecnología
Nice tutorial, thanks! A couple of suggestions:
1. Cut four pieces of angle aluminum and mount these at the four corners of your vacuum box (sticking up perhaps 3 inches or so above the surface of the box). This would make it so your plastic frame will always fit down on the vacuum box precisely.
2. Consider rubber strips/weather stripping (flat "gasket" type) instead of felt for a better seal.
3. More separation of your bucks on the vacuum frame should help to eliminate those wrinkles.
A hot air gun might be useful to get rid of the webbing parts, just apply hot air to the webbed parts while the plastic is forming, it might be hard to orchestrate getting the hot air gun warmed up along with the rest of the process...
Hi, I managed to find your video from looking around for ages for a simple solution to vacuum forming at home. this was a really clear video and very easy to follow what you were up to.
Glad I found this to help with my projects :)
Costs for those little things will be more than $15.00, is any cheaper plastic for the same purpose?
Nice video and project. Instead of a 2nd vacuum, did you consider a heat gun? Even with what you have, its a nice addition that will give you lots of control and detail.
VERY NICE, GREAT JOB,,. I WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR SHARING ,,
WATCHED VIDEO THIS WILL HELP ME WHEN I BUILD MY ON
Does clear PETG turn white when over heated?
try casting one at a time or with a bigger former, that should prevent them webbing.
Hi,I'm living in Seoul South Korea,I'm from uropygial &i really need to make some samples can you let me know if the PVC plastic can work...or should b better a different one.thanks for your video ,I'm waiting just what kind of plastic to use your vacuum former.really helpfull1
Any kind of plastic will work in a vac forming table. It all depends on the individual properties and thickness of the specific plastic that determines how well the plastic will form. Plastics like HIPS (high impact polystyrene), Styrene and great for fine detail, but lack sufficient density to make for a long lasting formed piece. The stuff can be real brittle and rip like paper. ABS forms details pretty well - not nearly as well as HIPS - but it is a denser plastic and will take a bit more punishment and keep its shape. PVC plastic, foam board, Sintra and the like (as I have been told by a friend of mine) forms ok if it is block shapes lacking any kind of great detail. He tried to form a ball, I think, and the Sintra didn't form all that well.
Of course, it also depends on the thickness of the plastic you are using. I'm a Star Wars costumer, so the thickness we are talking about is roughly 1/8 of an inch, or .093 of thickness. Most stormtrooper armor is molded in .093 ABS.
The molds should be secured down maybe a good double face tape under each one. The holes are a little too large and it is general necessary to have tiny holes at the base of each mold this will eliminate the webbing by removing the air around the base..
Way too much work for that. Re-drill the whole particleboard????
Instead of a peg r can I use a screen from a screen door and can I put the openin of the vacuum on the bottom of the bottom board?
it needs spacers maybe for the items since there small i might be wrong i usually am
turn the vacuumes on after the plastic is placed onto the thermoform table. just be sure to turn the vacs on asap
Another way to help get the molds out easier is to coat the molds wi a light coat of baby powder.
id like to make a slide vacuum former with a disasembled wire heater on top.
Fail.
should put those pieces further apart to no get those wrinkles
Plastic SOLO plates work well, too.
what was the thickness of the styrene piece you used for this video? Can you use thicker pieces, or would it be better to just stick to a specific thickness for Vacuforming?
30 mil
That's a pretty sweet set up. :) I would love to make one but I think silicone molding may be easier for me to keep doing. I also don't think I could do this as I have a gas oven with flames and not an electric oven. If I ever change my mind though I will definitely refer back to this video. :D
- Heidi
+BlackCat2 You can use your oven. I've seen these heated up with propane torches. If you look on Jimmy Diresta's youtube channel he uses two torches to heat up his. Take care.
Major suction.thx for sharing
NO EQUAL AND STABLE HEATING TO THE PLASTIC
i know this video is kinda old but could you give some more info on the supplier of the plastic sheet? thats an awesome price for a 4x8 sheet
They have a nice rig here I bought and works great. Very good definition
and good draw down, high temp silicone
holsterformer.com/product/17-5-in-x-26-in-vacuum-former/
30 mm? your plastic sheet is 1 inch THICK?
+Nataly Spring LOL, I thought the same thing at 1st :) So its not 30mm thick but rather its 30mil thick or .030 inch.
If they are more far each from each other?
That is great! Thanks for sharing!
sure made it look easy!
good job cool stuff
What is the end product used for?
Good job!
is there a food safe plastic that I can use?
+KuraPeaCoke PETG, it's often used in food containers. You can find sheets on Amazon.
great! thanks! :D
Can yo please let me know what kind of plastic is the one to use&the thickness.can it be PVC?i really need to make samples I.thank you
You should be able to rid yourself of the webbing by heating the plastic a bit more, or using thinner plastic sheets. Good luck!
The plastic was in the oven too long. That's what caused the wrinkles
lol.....30mm = 1-1/8 inch