UPDATE: Putting this here as it seems to be unnoticed in the description: Yes Linear Advance is ok to use with TMC2208 standalone drivers, so the Creality 4.2.2 boards are totally fine to use with it :)
@@3DJake_Official No worries!~ It's good to be up-to-date I ended-up successfully compiling an MPC + Linear Advance firmware for my stock CR-10 v2 (board), and it's running smoothly. I tried compiling an Input Shaping firmware for the CR-10 v2 (board), and it wouldn't have it. It simply blue screened on boot. This was also the case even with MPC and Linear Advance disabled. After rolling-back and/or flashing to the aforementioned MPC + Linear Advance firmware, it went back to normal without any blue screens. I guess the MCU and/or RAM, etc of the CR-10 v2 (board) simply can't handle Input Shaping as is - so a mainboard upgrade is necessary nonetheless if you want MPC + Input Shaping + Linear Advance on Marlin firmware
One major point to note is that you can keep the original 8-bit controller and flash klipper firmware. In addition you can use any old computer or vm to run klipper host and frontend instead of a raspberry pi.
@@3DJake_Official you can also more than 1 printer on a generic raspberry pi, you don't have to go with the SonicPad for that (which I think is what you were referring to).
Hi can you point me to a video where someone does that. I have watched every video i can on klipper using laptoo but i have never succeeded i have been searching since december. To date i still havent been able to flash klipper on my printer. If you could kindly point me to the right video? Thank you my good sir.
Thanks for the video, I've been on this firmware on my ender 3 pro for a few weeks but haven't bothered trying to setup input shaping yet. Sounds like I need to!
Just a random tidbit: Tom Brazier basically single handedly wrote Input Shaping in Marlin. The same guy who also wrote MPC and invented the algorithm behind it, which is the drastically better alternative to PID tuning. On another note, I always found it funny how so many people praise Klipper and resonance compensation using an accelerometer, yet the results you'd get with both Marlin's input shaping and Klipper's manual resonance compensation are more than fine, so long as you have the time and patience required for it. On the other hand, the accelerometer route may seem like the magical easy solution, however that can also be quite a bit of work, from custom mounts to custom interference free cables, so you actually get good results via SPI. TL;DR: Input Shaping and Resonance Compensation can easily be done without an accelerometer, and I personally don't see the benefits of an accelerometer outweighing the manual method, at least not when done right.
I agree with you on the resonance part. Same if not easier to do it manual. But, using the graphs you get out of your accelerometer makes it much easier to troubleshoot where resonance and noise is coming from. Like a loose belt or screw etc, with manual mode it is harder to find out that you are not as high acceleration as it could be. With input shaping your graph helps you to see if there is something wrong and you should be able to go much higher
@@Freddy-cx5yn That's a very good point! I've yet to actually try the accelerometer route myself, but will soon enough. Didn't even consider the added benefits of visualizing the resonance but can definitely see that being useful, especially after initial manual calibration and when wanting to tune it to be as perfect as possible. Being able to tell if there's a mechanical fault is another thing I hadn't even considered, yet would personally highly benefit from that as well.
Thanks for the shout out. I have just heard from a friend who sidestepped the accelerometer support question by using a vibration analysis tool on his phone. It gave good enough results for IS to improve his prints.
Just down loaded Marlin 2.1.2 .Getting ready to setup on Ender 3 with all liner rails, BTT SKR 2 F429 , liner rails helped a bit but not on the Y axis Hot end is a Phatos Dragonfly ...Got Revo in waiting to install...Well no time like the present. As I will tell my wife it all your fault i killed my 4 year old printer...so sad..lol
Great video. I've been struggling a bit with finding the right frequency for my ender 3 with an skr mini. What setting have you ended up with for x and y frequency and gain?
I very much appreciate somebody explaining this. But, the truth is I probably won't use it unless they add ADXL support. Klipper spoiled me. I am pretty sure adxl support is beyond mainboard capabilities, but I could be wrong.
Yeah that is a pity, the test isn't difficult but I get the Klipper spoiling :) Whether adxl support is possible on a regular mainboard is a good question, I would think probably not.....might be easier to run the accelerometer on a computer and input the results manually.
Some main boards like the BTT Octopus ones have several UART ports so it can read the ADXL accelerometer data, also I²C (which the Klipper page advises against but who knows). That could make it possible on such a board, but for the ones that are already fully occupied with TFT LCDs and such it's likely not feasible. I would love this as an Octoprint plugin as well, would solve the issue of no ports on the board.
So far the best video that explains why Marlon and Stock Creality are a no-go in most cases. I'd love to see a dedicated video on what upgrades would be required to get the most out of clipper as well as some direct comparisons. I can upgrade my hot end to a Spider Pro or Sprite Pro, which would take care of the issues with melting enough plastic. I'm leery about replacing my 4.2.7 boards as I am not familiar with compiling and flashing Marlon, other than installing a bin file on a flash drive and turning on my printer. All the other steps are over my head, and I would want the option to just download the bin file and flash the board with a USB drive, no fancy USB to connector, raspberry pie or whatever.
I just stumbled onto your channel as i was researching input shaping. back in the late 70s I was working in CR Scanner R&D and trying to increase data accuracy with speed and acceleration compensation for vibration. We were slinging an X Ray tube back and forth and rotating it to boot. So now in retirement i print 1950s Model Train parts and new updates. What else. My 10 S Pro is V1 with a lot of mods. OK to the point can I get this MArlin Experimental code to run on my 10S Pro?? I am on the original Motherboard but use Pi to run Octoprint. As I expand my parts list and am not getting more requests for parts from other Hobbyist, I need to make more parts faster. Especially test parts where you need to print a part to final test every time. So ..... What would You Suggest I thought at first the Creality 4.2.7 would help but it seems NO! We need more processor speed, second processor or a second printer for small parts fast. Any suggestions to help get my 10S Pro up to speed. Mods today: Z axis timing belt, Garolite Bed, Micro Swiss Direct Drive & Hot End, BL Touch, Z axis Struts. I also have a Laptop PC to use and not opposed to update motherboard or User Interface if it can tie in and help the end result, Great prints as fast as possible. The option is $1,000 Bambu, right? Dennis in Virginia on Frankentrain Laboratories facebook.
Ooooh! ok so you probably won't be able to run Marlin's input shaper on the original mainboard (I say probably because people have used marlin 2 firmware on 8-bit machines, unfortunately, I don't know much about that but there are videos on youtube about it). You could upgrade the mainboard or (and this might be the best solution for you), you could install Klipper on your Raspberry Pi. Klipper is another firmware that also uses Input Shaping. But this really depends on which Pi you have though because it won't work on earlier versions so you need at least a Pi 2 unless you want to scale back on Klipper features. There is info on the requirements on Klipper3D's website, check out the FAQ there. If you want to go the new mainboard route it is, unfortunately, a bit tricky because the CR-10S Pro's touchscreen is close to incompatible with every other board. There are workaround for this with a little extra wiring but it is a bit messy. I would really recommend the Klipper on the Pi option if possible but if you have other printers it might also be handy to get a Creality Sonic Pad which is basically a big touchscreen with Klipper and it is suitable for the CR-10S Pro. This is around €200 so it is probably the most expensive of the options but it can run 4 Creality printers simultaneously so a great investment if you have a few printers. All that said, using input shaping on a CR-10S Pro is no substitute for a CoreXY or Delta printer like the Bambulab, Voron or FLSUN printers. The Pro has a big bed to move so you definitely won't be able to get more than 200mm/s out of it, I expect less, 150mm/s most likely. Which is pretty low compared to the printer brands I mentioned above. Hope this helps though :)
@@3DJake_Official yes it helps. Thank you for taking the time. The Bambu is on my want list but not soon. I like the feedback control stuff. I have become attached to my 10S Pro. So $200 on a Sonic Pad is not out of range for me. I was looking at the CR 4.2.7 motherboard but it seems even that is limited. My Pi 4A is highly under utilized. It was one of the last one available. I really am not smart enough to use it full potential. Guess I will keep reading and learning. Thank again for good channel and informative videos, Regards, Dennis
Jake, I swapped my original ender 3v2 y motor with the larger extruder motor. Could I theoretically run even higher acceleration and jerk having a larger motor?
I don't think that will help that much, you'll be able to run it faster but you'll still have to contend with vibrations which will limit practical speeds.
Didn't work for me other than printing out the ringing tower in vaze mode. I've compiled the latest Marlin for my Kingroon KP3S, everything else works as usual but once I try to enable input shaping with a frequency found (turned out to be 32 Hz) the benchy can't go pass the first layer. After some movements the steppers just stop. I think it's caused by short segments. Also if I enable IS on one axis only, then only one axis stops, the other one continues moving. After cancelling print, it can't even home because I suppose the drivers are locked into an error mode. Also tried the ringing tower in non-vaze mode, with two perimeters. It stops somewhere mid-process as well. Also tried turning on and off the S-curve accel, recompiling/reflashing, no difference regarding the "stop moving" behavior. With no IS enabled from gcode, however, everything works fine, LA works fine etc. Using on daily basis, just not enabling the IS.
@@3DJake_Official Yeah, I've figured it will be found out by someone else sooner or later, I'm not that of an active community member myself :) So just waiting for now :)
When I try to use PrusaSlicer in vase mode with the layer gcode, it will not go over 100mm/s even though i set wall speeds to 300mm/s. Any idea why this is?
It would be subject to another limit. You may have limited max speeds on your 3D printer firmware, or you may have limited max volumetric extrusion rate in PrusaSlicer itself.
Marlin = one variable needing to change in pins or boards or several others = 20+ minutes of compile and flashing. For it to possibly not work. From scratch setup of a totally new Printer to a totally new board without previous examples = days, Plural Klipper = EVERY change takes seconds, can be tested within seconds, and a new printer conversion with new mainboard without previous examples = 2-3 hours. I'll probably never go back to Marlin. Just based on the R and D speed differences.
The manual testing was the most time consuming by far which is a serious drawback but adding a new board, firmware modification and flashing took about 25 mins. Obviously still doesn't beat klipper with an accelerometer but how long does it take to flash a pi, print a pi mount, print an accelerometer adaptor, not to mention the cost of the pi.
Many variables can be changed from gcode commands (Pronterface). If you need to enable or disable something in firmware, you only have to edit a text file, press build button on Vscode and upload it to your printer. Flashing only takes a few seconds. I think your comment is not accurate at all.
@@alejandroperez5368 unless it's in pins or boards or anywhere it might be when you are swapping boards and writing from scratch. Which I can do in klipper with only a weekends training. Worked with marlin for several years and firmware and major changes still took forever. With some features and functions simply being too complicated to figure out how to implement. Had it all working on clipper the day I first picked it up. Within 12 hours of knowing it even existed. Coming from an IT background, I can say for me, klipper was 1000x easier to learn and understand.
I have a setup which allows me to update Marlin very very quickly because i have a custom bootloader and custom upload procedure. I could probably tune it more by customising the bootloader yet again but i probably don't even care that much. Though i have a different background C++ and embedded devices so :D But i'm going to do Klipper soon for a variety of reasons. I intended to do this for longer but this kept getting pushed back simply for lack of time and then misplacing the Pi i stashed away for it :D
@@SianaGearz I have seen many setups that use Gcode and M-commands to do much of the setup post compiling, and some that update firmware over USB. As a poor nerd, I am using the Big Tree Tech line of boards typically in my builds. SKR1.4, 3, Octopus, Pro, Etc. Which of course are not capable of being updated over USB. Klipper for me was a whole list of ease of use upgrades, and seriously simplified the setup process. For someone who can code, I am sure Marlin is super easy. Or at least more navigable. But for someone who only ever edits config files and writes IPChains Etc, the Klipper config was just worlds apart easier. And tuning is also SUPER easy. Tuning marlin would take me a week or more even after I had a working firmware. Tweaking klipper took a few hours. The tuning prints took the time. IF you had the variables they give you up front, tuning in klipper is an hour or less task. Start to finish. Its easy enough that I have a 9 year old nephew using it successfully with his Ender 3 we klipperized. I'll never go back to Marlin. Klipper is the way.
This was so long ago I can't find the firmware files. But you could use the configs that are already on the marlin github such as this one for your mainboard: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/BigTreeTech%20SKR%20Mini%20E3%203.0 Then you just need to adjust the firmware to enable the BLTouch and you're good to go. We have a video on editing firmware here that might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/pFhVdPKhMu4/видео.html
Why does my comment keep getting deleted? Is it because I am giving informative information on input shaping for ender 3 and sharing a link to github for a setup guide or something? I shared this video all over the place because it's very informative but I've had 2 comments deleted now so I'm not going to sub and not going to share the video anymore.
@@3DJake_Official Well it is a grate video none the less. @o canal do baguete said youtube deletes videos with links but this is the first time I have had issues posting a comment with a link I was trying to share a link to a input shaping setup guide for Mriscoc Professional firmware for Ender 3 V2/S1
RUclips keeps yeeting just about every comment i make even just mentioning the hub of gits. Which is very unfortunate when discussing open-source matter. Another thing it hates is 4-part dot-separated version numbers which look like they might be IP addresses. Or indeed IP addresses, even if you mention ones on typical local subnet.
Fake news at 2:02 - Input shaper, as Klipper offers it, does NOT cancel out vibrations. It filters out frequencies from the movements which cause resonances on the printer. How should it remove vibrations and move in the opposite directions to counter them? The accelerometer is usually not even connected while printing, it does not even know if a vibration occurs.
It "filters out frequencies" exactly by commanding opposite movements from the steppers. It doesn't need the accelerometer to be attached while doing this, because it has measured the fundamental frequencies of the system in advance. In the same way that a pendulum of a given length will always swing at a certain rate, the printer will oscillate at a certain rate. If you know what that rate is, you can anticipate it
@@prxrb It simply does not do opposite movements to cancel out vibrations. It's a filter which reduces movements which correspond to frequencies that the shaper with the given parameters attenuates. Everything _after_ your first sentence is correct.
I appreciate the attempt, but it really didn't go into detail. Pretty much said use this guy and do what they are telling you to do and walla. No real explanation here.
We really just wanted to give our opinion on the guide. Most of what Marlin has on their website is easily understandable and we didn't just want to repeat everything verbatim. But some things were not noted there like linear advance and the damping factor test is on their github but really hard to find and not mentioned in the gcode command page so it is just our two cents on the topic. But if you think something should be given extra attention we can totally do a follow up :)
UPDATE: Putting this here as it seems to be unnoticed in the description: Yes Linear Advance is ok to use with TMC2208 standalone drivers, so the Creality 4.2.2 boards are totally fine to use with it :)
Linear advance for TMC2208 drivers in SpreadCycle are no longer bugged.
I compiled and got it working on my CR10v2 two weeks ago 💯
No way! Awesome! Thanks man!
@@3DJake_Official No worries!~ It's good to be up-to-date
I ended-up successfully compiling an MPC + Linear Advance firmware for my stock CR-10 v2 (board), and it's running smoothly.
I tried compiling an Input Shaping firmware for the CR-10 v2 (board), and it wouldn't have it. It simply blue screened on boot.
This was also the case even with MPC and Linear Advance disabled. After rolling-back and/or flashing to the aforementioned MPC + Linear Advance firmware, it went back to normal without any blue screens.
I guess the MCU and/or RAM, etc of the CR-10 v2 (board) simply can't handle Input Shaping as is - so a mainboard upgrade is necessary nonetheless if you want MPC + Input Shaping + Linear Advance on Marlin firmware
Such a professional video. Well made!
One major point to note is that you can keep the original 8-bit controller and flash klipper firmware. In addition you can use any old computer or vm to run klipper host and frontend instead of a raspberry pi.
That is a good point, can also run it on a smart tv box. I wonder which is the least complicated though, especially for new users.
@@3DJake_Official you can also more than 1 printer on a generic raspberry pi, you don't have to go with the SonicPad for that (which I think is what you were referring to).
@@3DJake_Official I found a dell wyse 5070 mini pc to be easy to work with and its power efficient too.
Hi can you point me to a video where someone does that. I have watched every video i can on klipper using laptoo but i have never succeeded i have been searching since december. To date i still havent been able to flash klipper on my printer. If you could kindly point me to the right video? Thank you my good sir.
I believe the issue between 2208 drivers in legacy mode and linear advance was also fixed in the 2.1.2 release, maybe double check that.
Thanks for the update, that's gonna be really useful :)
That was fixed some time last year before IS. Then during IS development I broke it again. And then fixed it again. Anyway it works now.
@@tombrazier6172 yes, it works on 4.2.7 and ender s1 pro board :)
Linear Advance issues on the Creality boards have been fixed in Marlin 2.1.1 by the way.
Thanks for the video, I've been on this firmware on my ender 3 pro for a few weeks but haven't bothered trying to setup input shaping yet. Sounds like I need to!
Really like the last few videos, good job! Keep it up!
Just a random tidbit: Tom Brazier basically single handedly wrote Input Shaping in Marlin. The same guy who also wrote MPC and invented the algorithm behind it, which is the drastically better alternative to PID tuning.
On another note, I always found it funny how so many people praise Klipper and resonance compensation using an accelerometer, yet the results you'd get with both Marlin's input shaping and Klipper's manual resonance compensation are more than fine, so long as you have the time and patience required for it. On the other hand, the accelerometer route may seem like the magical easy solution, however that can also be quite a bit of work, from custom mounts to custom interference free cables, so you actually get good results via SPI.
TL;DR: Input Shaping and Resonance Compensation can easily be done without an accelerometer, and I personally don't see the benefits of an accelerometer outweighing the manual method, at least not when done right.
I agree with you on the resonance part. Same if not easier to do it manual.
But, using the graphs you get out of your accelerometer makes it much easier to troubleshoot where resonance and noise is coming from. Like a loose belt or screw etc, with manual mode it is harder to find out that you are not as high acceleration as it could be. With input shaping your graph helps you to see if there is something wrong and you should be able to go much higher
@@Freddy-cx5yn That's a very good point! I've yet to actually try the accelerometer route myself, but will soon enough. Didn't even consider the added benefits of visualizing the resonance but can definitely see that being useful, especially after initial manual calibration and when wanting to tune it to be as perfect as possible.
Being able to tell if there's a mechanical fault is another thing I hadn't even considered, yet would personally highly benefit from that as well.
Thanks for the shout out. I have just heard from a friend who sidestepped the accelerometer support question by using a vibration analysis tool on his phone. It gave good enough results for IS to improve his prints.
@@tombrazier6172 thanks for this information :)
I'm in the middle of converting over to Klipper. Figures that this would show up as I am dialing in my printer for Klipper.
Wonder if marlin is gonna play catchup with klipper, maybe someday people start hopping back over to marlin for high performance custom printers
Klipper doesn't support G2/G3 movements. Once they get this nailed down, I'd like to see ARC Welder fired back up and surpass Klipper.
Just down loaded Marlin 2.1.2 .Getting ready to setup on Ender 3 with all liner rails, BTT SKR 2 F429 , liner rails helped a bit but not on the Y axis Hot end is a Phatos Dragonfly ...Got Revo in waiting to install...Well no time like the present. As I will tell my wife it all your fault i killed my 4 year old printer...so sad..lol
Great video. I've been struggling a bit with finding the right frequency for my ender 3 with an skr mini.
What setting have you ended up with for x and y frequency and gain?
For X we had 56.36 and Y was 45.0 but we tried this with a modded printhead, BMG, V6 and 5015 fan so it will be different on your set up :/
@@3DJake_Official well I just can't seem to get it to change anything. It's like there's a magic button in the firmware I've missed lol.
Surprised to be the first Brass Eye/Babylon Zoo fan in the comments! You may be the first to have made a circular video!
That and maybe I was born with a few more genes than the rest.
I very much appreciate somebody explaining this. But, the truth is I probably won't use it unless they add ADXL support. Klipper spoiled me. I am pretty sure adxl support is beyond mainboard capabilities, but I could be wrong.
Yeah that is a pity, the test isn't difficult but I get the Klipper spoiling :) Whether adxl support is possible on a regular mainboard is a good question, I would think probably not.....might be easier to run the accelerometer on a computer and input the results manually.
Some main boards like the BTT Octopus ones have several UART ports so it can read the ADXL accelerometer data, also I²C (which the Klipper page advises against but who knows).
That could make it possible on such a board, but for the ones that are already fully occupied with TFT LCDs and such it's likely not feasible.
I would love this as an Octoprint plugin as well, would solve the issue of no ports on the board.
Lets hope this will come to Prusa machines...
Great video
So far the best video that explains why Marlon and Stock Creality are a no-go in most cases. I'd love to see a dedicated video on what upgrades would be required to get the most out of clipper as well as some direct comparisons. I can upgrade my hot end to a Spider Pro or Sprite Pro, which would take care of the issues with melting enough plastic. I'm leery about replacing my 4.2.7 boards as I am not familiar with compiling and flashing Marlon, other than installing a bin file on a flash drive and turning on my printer. All the other steps are over my head, and I would want the option to just download the bin file and flash the board with a USB drive, no fancy USB to connector, raspberry pie or whatever.
It's not Marlon and it's not Clipper.
@@alejandroperez5368 I know it shouldn't but this really bugged me also lol
Thanks!, I didn't want to figure it out myself. take my like and subscribe!
*sees no one posted about it yet
"Fine, Ill do it Myself"
we waited.....nothing happened...might aswell
I just stumbled onto your channel as i was researching input shaping. back in the late 70s I was working in CR Scanner R&D and trying to increase data accuracy with speed and acceleration compensation for vibration. We were slinging an X Ray tube back and forth and rotating it to boot. So now in retirement i print 1950s Model Train parts and new updates. What else. My 10 S Pro is V1 with a lot of mods. OK to the point can I get this MArlin Experimental code to run on my 10S Pro?? I am on the original Motherboard but use Pi to run Octoprint. As I expand my parts list and am not getting more requests for parts from other Hobbyist, I need to make more parts faster. Especially test parts where you need to print a part to final test every time. So ..... What would You Suggest I thought at first the Creality 4.2.7 would help but it seems NO! We need more processor speed, second processor or a second printer for small parts fast. Any suggestions to help get my 10S Pro up to speed. Mods today: Z axis timing belt, Garolite Bed, Micro Swiss Direct Drive & Hot End, BL Touch, Z axis Struts. I also have a Laptop PC to use and not opposed to update motherboard or User Interface if it can tie in and help the end result, Great prints as fast as possible. The option is $1,000 Bambu, right? Dennis in Virginia on Frankentrain Laboratories facebook.
Ooooh! ok so you probably won't be able to run Marlin's input shaper on the original mainboard (I say probably because people have used marlin 2 firmware on 8-bit machines, unfortunately, I don't know much about that but there are videos on youtube about it). You could upgrade the mainboard or (and this might be the best solution for you), you could install Klipper on your Raspberry Pi. Klipper is another firmware that also uses Input Shaping. But this really depends on which Pi you have though because it won't work on earlier versions so you need at least a Pi 2 unless you want to scale back on Klipper features. There is info on the requirements on Klipper3D's website, check out the FAQ there.
If you want to go the new mainboard route it is, unfortunately, a bit tricky because the CR-10S Pro's touchscreen is close to incompatible with every other board. There are workaround for this with a little extra wiring but it is a bit messy. I would really recommend the Klipper on the Pi option if possible but if you have other printers it might also be handy to get a Creality Sonic Pad which is basically a big touchscreen with Klipper and it is suitable for the CR-10S Pro. This is around €200 so it is probably the most expensive of the options but it can run 4 Creality printers simultaneously so a great investment if you have a few printers.
All that said, using input shaping on a CR-10S Pro is no substitute for a CoreXY or Delta printer like the Bambulab, Voron or FLSUN printers. The Pro has a big bed to move so you definitely won't be able to get more than 200mm/s out of it, I expect less, 150mm/s most likely. Which is pretty low compared to the printer brands I mentioned above. Hope this helps though :)
@@3DJake_Official yes it helps. Thank you for taking the time.
The Bambu is on my want list but not soon. I like the feedback control stuff. I have become attached to my 10S Pro. So $200 on a Sonic Pad is not out of range for me. I was looking at the CR 4.2.7 motherboard but it seems even that is limited. My Pi 4A is highly under utilized. It was one of the last one available. I really am not smart enough to use it full potential. Guess I will keep reading and learning. Thank again for good channel and informative videos, Regards, Dennis
My PI is a 4B, whatever.
the video is very professional
Do you setup Linear Advance first or Input Shaping ?
I think it would be better to do input shaping first so that you can calibrate linear advance at higher speeds.
Jake, I swapped my original ender 3v2 y motor with the larger extruder motor. Could I theoretically run even higher acceleration and jerk having a larger motor?
I don't think that will help that much, you'll be able to run it faster but you'll still have to contend with vibrations which will limit practical speeds.
Great video mate, is the input shaping the only new feature in 2.1.2?👍🇦🇺😊
Input shaping is the big one but there are a ton of little ones, check out the marlin github for the full release
Didn't work for me other than printing out the ringing tower in vaze mode. I've compiled the latest Marlin for my Kingroon KP3S, everything else works as usual but once I try to enable input shaping with a frequency found (turned out to be 32 Hz) the benchy can't go pass the first layer. After some movements the steppers just stop. I think it's caused by short segments. Also if I enable IS on one axis only, then only one axis stops, the other one continues moving. After cancelling print, it can't even home because I suppose the drivers are locked into an error mode. Also tried the ringing tower in non-vaze mode, with two perimeters. It stops somewhere mid-process as well. Also tried turning on and off the S-curve accel, recompiling/reflashing, no difference regarding the "stop moving" behavior. With no IS enabled from gcode, however, everything works fine, LA works fine etc. Using on daily basis, just not enabling the IS.
That's weird man, I expect there'll be some feedback on this in the near future, stay tuned to the marlin github.
@@3DJake_Official Yeah, I've figured it will be found out by someone else sooner or later, I'm not that of an active community member myself :) So just waiting for now :)
When I try to use PrusaSlicer in vase mode with the layer gcode, it will not go over 100mm/s even though i set wall speeds to 300mm/s. Any idea why this is?
It would be subject to another limit. You may have limited max speeds on your 3D printer firmware, or you may have limited max volumetric extrusion rate in PrusaSlicer itself.
Don't forget to set the machine settings to ignore and the minimum layer time in the cooling section
Marlin = one variable needing to change in pins or boards or several others = 20+ minutes of compile and flashing. For it to possibly not work. From scratch setup of a totally new Printer to a totally new board without previous examples = days, Plural
Klipper = EVERY change takes seconds, can be tested within seconds, and a new printer conversion with new mainboard without previous examples = 2-3 hours.
I'll probably never go back to Marlin. Just based on the R and D speed differences.
The manual testing was the most time consuming by far which is a serious drawback but adding a new board, firmware modification and flashing took about 25 mins. Obviously still doesn't beat klipper with an accelerometer but how long does it take to flash a pi, print a pi mount, print an accelerometer adaptor, not to mention the cost of the pi.
Many variables can be changed from gcode commands (Pronterface).
If you need to enable or disable something in firmware, you only have to edit a text file, press build button on Vscode and upload it to your printer. Flashing only takes a few seconds. I think your comment is not accurate at all.
@@alejandroperez5368 unless it's in pins or boards or anywhere it might be when you are swapping boards and writing from scratch.
Which I can do in klipper with only a weekends training.
Worked with marlin for several years and firmware and major changes still took forever. With some features and functions simply being too complicated to figure out how to implement.
Had it all working on clipper the day I first picked it up. Within 12 hours of knowing it even existed.
Coming from an IT background, I can say for me, klipper was 1000x easier to learn and understand.
I have a setup which allows me to update Marlin very very quickly because i have a custom bootloader and custom upload procedure. I could probably tune it more by customising the bootloader yet again but i probably don't even care that much. Though i have a different background C++ and embedded devices so :D
But i'm going to do Klipper soon for a variety of reasons. I intended to do this for longer but this kept getting pushed back simply for lack of time and then misplacing the Pi i stashed away for it :D
@@SianaGearz I have seen many setups that use Gcode and M-commands to do much of the setup post compiling, and some that update firmware over USB. As a poor nerd, I am using the Big Tree Tech line of boards typically in my builds. SKR1.4, 3, Octopus, Pro, Etc. Which of course are not capable of being updated over USB.
Klipper for me was a whole list of ease of use upgrades, and seriously simplified the setup process.
For someone who can code, I am sure Marlin is super easy. Or at least more navigable. But for someone who only ever edits config files and writes IPChains Etc, the Klipper config was just worlds apart easier. And tuning is also SUPER easy.
Tuning marlin would take me a week or more even after I had a working firmware.
Tweaking klipper took a few hours. The tuning prints took the time. IF you had the variables they give you up front, tuning in klipper is an hour or less task. Start to finish.
Its easy enough that I have a 9 year old nephew using it successfully with his Ender 3 we klipperized.
I'll never go back to Marlin.
Klipper is the way.
But you never showed flashing the board or any print results? Am I missing something?
I think so, we showed a print result at 9:20. As for flashing the board it is the exact same way as any other firmware update for a 32 bit mainboard.
I love how you just stare into space when you softly say crap! lol
Should I see a frequency change in the gcode at each layer?
Yes, it is a really slow frequency change, like 0.15hz for every layer so you should see a nice gradient of ringing on the finished calibration print.
Marlin have function Power-loss Recovery but klipper "NO"🤣
hahahaa it's true :P
Can u give me a free firmware, my ender 3 has btlouch and SKR Mini E3 V3 too but my firmware doesn't works Thank You
This was so long ago I can't find the firmware files. But you could use the configs that are already on the marlin github such as this one for your mainboard: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/BigTreeTech%20SKR%20Mini%20E3%203.0
Then you just need to adjust the firmware to enable the BLTouch and you're good to go. We have a video on editing firmware here that might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/pFhVdPKhMu4/видео.html
I usually solve these problems by not printing at high speeds. And I shave. I know weird right?
Why does my comment keep getting deleted? Is it because I am giving informative information on input shaping for ender 3 and sharing a link to github for a setup guide or something? I shared this video all over the place because it's very informative but I've had 2 comments deleted now so I'm not going to sub and not going to share the video anymore.
RUclips just delete comments with links, chill out.
@@BaguetesGarage that's dumb I've made heaps of comments with links in it
It is mega dumb. Also I can't see @o canal do baguete comment except in youtube studio, well done youtube.
@@3DJake_Official Well it is a grate video none the less. @o canal do baguete said youtube deletes videos with links but this is the first time I have had issues posting a comment with a link I was trying to share a link to a input shaping setup guide for Mriscoc Professional firmware for Ender 3 V2/S1
RUclips keeps yeeting just about every comment i make even just mentioning the hub of gits. Which is very unfortunate when discussing open-source matter.
Another thing it hates is 4-part dot-separated version numbers which look like they might be IP addresses. Or indeed IP addresses, even if you mention ones on typical local subnet.
Fake news at 2:02 - Input shaper, as Klipper offers it, does NOT cancel out vibrations. It filters out frequencies from the movements which cause resonances on the printer. How should it remove vibrations and move in the opposite directions to counter them? The accelerometer is usually not even connected while printing, it does not even know if a vibration occurs.
It "filters out frequencies" exactly by commanding opposite movements from the steppers. It doesn't need the accelerometer to be attached while doing this, because it has measured the fundamental frequencies of the system in advance. In the same way that a pendulum of a given length will always swing at a certain rate, the printer will oscillate at a certain rate. If you know what that rate is, you can anticipate it
@@prxrb It simply does not do opposite movements to cancel out vibrations. It's a filter which reduces movements which correspond to frequencies that the shaper with the given parameters attenuates. Everything _after_ your first sentence is correct.
I appreciate the attempt, but it really didn't go into detail. Pretty much said use this guy and do what they are telling you to do and walla. No real explanation here.
We really just wanted to give our opinion on the guide. Most of what Marlin has on their website is easily understandable and we didn't just want to repeat everything verbatim. But some things were not noted there like linear advance and the damping factor test is on their github but really hard to find and not mentioned in the gcode command page so it is just our two cents on the topic. But if you think something should be given extra attention we can totally do a follow up :)