This is not hard on the machine , this is nothing. I'm not saying it was "smooth operating" but it certainly didn't even phase that tractor... Dood needs to take his time tho
Thanks HipHop. I take my time probably 90% of the time, but as you can see I ended up with an 8 minute video as it is. I'm trying to get stuff done so you guys don't have to sit here for 20 minutes watching the most boring video in the world. I'm sure digging stuff out and tearing through stuff isn't the best for the tractor, but I bet of the 100 hours (that I JUST rolled), doing stuff like this doesn't account for 5 hours of the time on the machine (probably less). But I think you are right, these machines are built tough. Sure, you can break things, but even simply driving around the woods or brush-hogging can do the same thing. If I use it for more than toodling around the driveway, things will happen and need repaired.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Lian Benton I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good job clearing the brush and small trees. I'm glad to see that you are not afraid to put the tractor to work. Don't listen to the other people who are saying you are going to damage your tractor; your tractor can easily handle clearing brush and trees of that size.. I have a smaller John Deere 2210 that I have used numerous times to clear brush and trees like that; it is 13 years old and still runs like a new one.
Thanks for the best raming- speed vidio I ever seen. The majority of the comments certently agree. The 24,000$ price tag with kubota credit = no money down 400.$ a month = 13.33$ a day = .18cents a minute for a whole lot of silly fun. I guess , " more money the brains" works here mighty fine. And 5000 to one ratio of ditstruction on built equity in machinery usage. And I thought my 3year old 35,000$ Mx5200 TLB 526hr 68% paid for machine was worked hard. By comparison at your ratio it's only 2% used up. Good luck on U Tube re-embursments.
I have had the same tractor as you for 3 years now. Have been doing just the same work. I do not have ONE scratch/scuff or mark on my tractor from the work. You need to slow down or you are going to get hurt. I don't care what you do to/with your tractor but YOU can not be fixed or replaced. IT CAN. You almost lost an oil pan. And an eye a time or two. Higgy babby,,, my god magnum!!!
I bought a brush mulched for my B26, rear attachment. It runs off of the PTO. My property looks similar to yours, most of which are 3” scrub oaks and brush. You might be better served with the muncher, cuts through brush leaving small chips behind. No piles or need to burn. Also, 5x faster with less wear and tear.
When you knock down a 3 inch tree dig around it. Reach the bucket up 5 feet or more then push the tree over. It will up root. Put it in low range and ease into it.
Hi Chris. I agree, these are the most useful (and agile) machines for a larger property. @ Chang- you should consider renting one to do the stuff in this video! I would not comment except for the fact we were doing exactly the same kind of work on an abandoned farm in Maritime Canada last month. The 33 HP Kubota I rented cut and uprooted 20' saplings with ease, plus I had a bush hog behind to mulch what was left. It transformed woodlot clearings into a walkable system of trails around the main meadow. The property is 25 acres that most recently belonged to a much-loved alcohol bootlegger character. I carried a Swedish brush ax and cut low limbs from my seat while driving, which were also mulched by the rotary mower. It was just TOO FUN getting years of "deferred maintenance" done in one week. Realize the brush will come back, so plan on spraying the areas with herbicide this Fall. Cost of the rental was US $120 per day at the current exchange rate. I did use a chain saw in 2 places to allow threading through older growth trees. In just 5 days, we reclaimed 8 acres of meadows and field, made a nice perimeter trail, and also hauled 3 tons of old junk metal equipment and fencing to a pile where scrappers could remove it. You don't want to discover a truck frame or engine block under 6' tall weeds on a tractor you just bought... We will definitely buy a Kubota once this farm is in shape and we are ready to move there from Pennsylvania. The plan is to transition it to Permaculture-like crops, bees and small stock, managing the woodlot for fuel and lumber. I wish it wasn't necessary to use chemicals on the brush and weeds, but we lack time and physical stamina to repeatedly cut and grub out all the spruce, rose, birch and alder that will keep shooting back up if we don't. Thanks for showing the world how satisfying it can be to go outside and do something! I hope you remain well at Tranquility. Sorry for rambling on, but we lack the video skill you obviously have! It is so refreshing to see people who aren't hiding in their houses all day. Best regards, Dave
Dave, The 20' saplings must not have been oaks! I have taken down 20-30 trees as well, but only shallow rooted ones. The oaks around here, oh my goodness do they have a huge tap root! A tree that is only 10' tall and 2-3" diameter can have a tap root 5"+ in diameter and 2' long! I agree with renting a tractor as being a great option for many. I was able to take an area from similar to what you see in a video to a 20x20 completely clear area, top soil scraped off, and fill sand leveled to put on a 14x14 pole barn all in about 8 hours of work (split over a couple days). The local place here does a bit higher price for a bit smaller tractor (b2710 for $160 per day). Still, you would not be able to do the same amount of work in a week or more clearing out all the roots and topsoil and such. Sure, you could cut the trees, but no way would you get the other stuff too! I think I would have sat on that junk metal for a bit. Steel prices aren't high right now (3-5 cents per pound compared to a year back where it was 10 cents a pound), but you probably could have paid for another couple days with the tractor just with the scrap! I know what you mean though while trying to clear, that is why I keep my bucket down low while bush-hogging saplings in the woods, there are lots of stumps and I got tired of breaking shear bolts. I hope you get your place up and going soon, I have lots of planting to do here with the 40+ trees I just bought (only 10 or 12 are edible, the rest are privacy trees). It will be a busy fall!
A word of caution (to others)... know your environment before playing "dozer" with your new cab-less 2500 lb compact tractor. It takes only one honey locust branch snapping back across your face... and you're blind, like permanently. But that's my environment. Bois 'Darc, Honey Locust, Poison Oak and Ivy saplings cemented into the Caliche clay. Boots, long pants, gloves, eye protection and either a phone or radio to call the wife when the 900 lbs standing unexpectedness falls and pins me to the tractor frame. These little tractors certainly can knock a hole in your woods. And they can kill you just as quick. Slow down. Slow down more. Keep your head on a swivel. Final "Safety Sally tip" for the masses... the ROPS only work if you're underneath them at the time of unexpectedness. Wear your seat belt. A suggestion (to other compact owners with dozer aspirations)... around these parts, I can get a 10,000 lb Bobcat (with operator) for about $650 per day. And if you plan with your Bobcat Man, w/him dozing and you shunting the dozings... you'll likely only need him for a day. That $650 investment will buy you back YEARS of life on your tractor, get your clearing done in a fraction of the time... and it might just save you physical damage, or worse. My two cents, anyways.
I liked the video. You looked like you were having fun! Kubotas are awesome machines. Taking the weeds down like this is far more preferable to using a bush hog if you are dealing with Poison Ivy or similar plants. Hitting those plants with a bush hog, string trimmer or flamer will vaporize the volatile oils in them to the point that you would be breathing in the aerosol. Poison Ivy rash is bad but having that same reaction in your lungs is far worse. Potentially deadly. Especially if you are asthmatic. Keep up the work. I subscribed so I can watch more of it. Have a great day!
Chainsaw and a logging chain to use the tractor for dragging stuff away. Then use bucket for pushing in a pile. Forget the fact it's hard on the tractor, It's NOT working lol
Excelent advice Duck Cluck Goose This newby never watched a kubota repair vidio or any Wille-Coiti cartunes, but we get to see them again in the real world.
The second you drove into that first tree I could tell its your first machine. The strongest point of that tractor is the bucket curl and lift power. Use it rather than bulldozing stuff over. Might save you from a stump in the oil pan. Slow down and let the hydro power of the loader and bucket do it thing. I cringed a few times watching this. Its a very nice machine you have there and one most people cant afford to ever own. I was waiting to see a hydro line get pulled off. Whew
No Joke, I don't want to be one of those guys bashing your methods and sounding like I jerk but I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Slow Down! Think Things Through! Wear Your Seat Belt! I don't want anyone to have a tree shoved through their chest or be laying out there with the tractor on top of you.
If you want to use the land for roads or planting, cutting the brush first will leave you with much better and more usable results. Also, if you use a lower gear, a 'working' gear', you will spin less, do less damage to your machine and get better results. Cheers.
My 4' brush hog can cut much thicker than my pinky finger, but it can hardly cut down a 4" tree! I can cut down a 2", maybe 3" if I take my time. You run over it, raise the brush hog up, then slowly move forward. Slowly lower the brush hog until you basically eat your way through it. Then raise it again, move forward until you just catch the now stump, and slowly lower it again, you'll run it like a wood chipper and slowly take it down. Not super time effective, but it works. For straight chopping through, my 4" will go through 1" no problem, and can often do 1.5" without taking out the shear bolt. I have gone through quite a few shear bolts, I am thankful for Tractor Supply having them by the lb for cheap. I don't see stumps many times, or the tree is bigger than I thought, and there goes the shear bolt.
I couldn’t watch this anymore. I’ve run equipment for 53 years now and never beat my equipment or anyone else’s like that. My tractors when sold were well over 6000 hours and almost like new. The time spent beating down this brush with a tractor, I would have had at knocked down with a chain saw. But his money, his tractor. Case closed.
Nice machine, I suggest picking up a grappler next time before doing this kind of project. Get a chain saw and cut them down real quick, then use the grapple to skoop them up. If you need closer to the ground pick up a bush hog roto cutter and drop it on the stumps. Other than you allowing the logs and branches to hit your undercarriage and straining your hdyro fluid system a bit when pushing down stumps, I am not sure why everyone is so up about you 'beating your tractor'? I push my BX just as bad except the direct damage and avoid the 'whine'. My uncles machine is the same and his is older and pushed WAY harder then both of ours combined. Kubota is tough.
Yep, it will work like that for a while but you are definitely thrashing it. My boss broke the frame on both sides of his diesel Kubota. The repair was about 70% of the purchase price. They had to completely disassemble the tractor and re-assemble it onto the new frame. Very time consuming repair job. Get-r-done Son!!!! The really funny part is that my boss still fancies himself quite the machinery operator.... haha! The guy's at the dealership want his money so they never tell him what a LeRoy he is... they just keep taking his money.
I've been running all kind of equipment for many years. The tractor could do the work with ease, but the operator did not know what he was doing. One you're running entirely too fast on the tractor to you had no ballast on the back. 3 that's not the way you laid the trees over. If you need help, just ask. I'm sure there's some guys on here that will explain how to do this. Including myself
@@justwilldo03 well for one when pushing a tree your bucket is supposed to be higher than he has his it gives the tractor more leverage and if the tree won't push over you dig behind the tree and boath sides dig around it good enough to cut the roots then raise your bucket up and try to push the tree agen when the tree falls lower your bucket to a flat position and push the root straightforward hope this helps and remember not to run equipment fast that's a good way to tairup equipment and get hurt
@@alabamainformedpublic. im still kinda new to the tractor world myself. But how you described is pretty much how I do it. I just wanted to double check my process, I'm sure I've gone faster than I should at times but only when it was close. I definitely think its better to chop the roots, better to push the tree over versus it breaking then being left with a stump to deal with
i have l 4400 2009 45 hp i lose a rad doing this and it was $ 700.00 bucks to replace thats just for the rad i did the labor myself cheap plastic top and bottom on these rads a branch caught right at where the hose connects to the bottom of the rad and cracked the plastic if the rad was all metal like the old ones this would not have happened any ways i am about to build a deflector to protect mine just a heads up . ps if i am going to spend that much money on a tractor i am going to use it not baby it never mind all the comments about you abusing the tractor your not hurting it at all
great video! you still like your B2650? Im about to buy one and was wondering about what shredder to buy. They say I should stick with a 4 ft? do you have a shredder? --thanks
What do you mean by a shredder? Do you mean a rotary cutter ("bush hog" or "brush hog" here in the states)? IF that is what you mean, I have a 4ft and it is perfect for me, but I only use it for cutting saplings in the woods and VERY minimal amounts of grass. If I had fields to cut I'd be pretty tempted to get a 5' one. I've never had issues with power running mine, but then its the heavy grass that would bog it down and I just dont have that here. I do still love my B2650. Were I to do it all over again knowing what I know now I might have considered the L series though. I ended up with this one because of the mid PTO for running a front snow blower, but if I did it again I'd look hard at a skid steer snow blower and a PTO driven hydraulic pump to run it. The extra weight could be nice, though there is very little my tractor hasn't been able to do that I've asked of it (and the things that it couldn't, I don't think the next size up would have done either). I do stuff all the time with my B2650 that I KNOW the BX series could NOT handle. If you have a few acres or more, or have heavy hobbies, I recommend the B series. I picked up a 6 person hot tub straight off the trailer (straps and my pallet forks), I pick up my 63" snow blower and put it on pallet racking (this is towards the upper limit of the front end loader capability, and coming down you have to be GENTLE or its scary). I lift logs when I pinch the chain saw in them (bolt on grab hooks on the bucket, or if it is too heavy for the bucket then I put the chain on the 3pt quick hitch which is rated for 2000lb lift). I carry stuff ALL the time to the back end of the property (though the BX series could easily handle that as well). I needed to weld in my un-powered pole barn so I fired up my 12kw PTO generator (large enough to run my whole house with ZERO problem) to power the welder. I grade my 1/2 mile of private dirt road which would be SO annoying with a smaller tractor and blade since it'd take twice as many passes. I dug a 2' deep path on the back of my property and plopped the dirt down next to it to make a berm for a bit of privacy if anybody is walking by. I use it to pull my trailer full of fire wood (3000lbs or so loaded I bet). I picked the bed up off my truck for working on the fuel pump, anything smaller would have had issues with the reach, possibly the weight. I dug out two shooting ranges with it which didn't take too terribly long to do in my pure sand (though it can get scary trying to get out with a bucket full of sand in sand). Despite only having 137 hours on it still, it feels like I use it all the time for random things. Heck, just today I used it for an elevated working platform for a better angle for swinging a sledge hammer remotely in the back of the property. Hop up 2-3 feet, adjust as needed.
Oh, and one tip. If you have more than one local dealer, play them off each other. I had one closest I knew I was most likely to use. I called another further and said "I'm closer to dealer X, but still close to you. I was planning on going with them, but thought I'd give you a chance to see if you could make it worth my while for this package" and I spec'd out exactly what I wanted. THey came back with a price about $2000 lower than the local dealer. So, I called the sales guy at the local dealer and said "they came back with this price and are close enough to deliver, can you match the price and deliver? If so I'll go with you". They matched it, saved me the couple grand, and delivered the tractor and accessories to my driveway.
I think you could handle 5', but you may have to slow down. Same thing with snow blowers, by conventional wisdom mine cant handle the 63" snowblower they sell for it. At the same time, if its too deep, drop it in low speed, and with the HST you can go even slower. Throw it on cruise control at a speed that works and call it good. I think it'd be worth trying a 5' brush hog. If you get a decent enough deal you'll be able to sell it for what you paid for it if it doesn't work out, so you won't be out much. I don't envy mowing 10 acres of fields; it wasn't fun when I used a 10' double wing cutter! I don't have access to any heavy thick grass to try mine out and let you know how it handles it. Again, I think if you just slow down you'd be able to. I don't think a smaller cutter would really go any faster; you'd have more overlap. Sure, you'd be able to DRIVE faster, but with the smaller cut width and more overlap relative to the amount of cut, I think a larger one going slower would cut the same acres per hour (and probably be easier on you from the suspension aspect, slower is definitely more comfortable than faster unless its perfectly smooth).
This is how you screw stuff up using it like a bull dozer.and if you ask me why i know this is because i’ve seen plenty of people doing it and even my uncle done it and now that tractor sits the broke down like it has been for years because he used it like a damn bulldozer
Mate have you ever considered competing in a Demolition Derby, lol. I've worked on tractors for 40yrs and even though you say your tractor has more grunt than a BX, it's still a toy and it will break if you continue like that. But it's not my tractor, you could put a match to it and let it burn to keep yourself warm at night for all I care. I gave you a thumbs up at least you had the guts to post. Cheers from Australia.
when you encounter a tree that you cant push easily,,go to the side and dip several times to cut the side roots,,,then at 90 degrees,,,go at it again and beside the trunk,,cut more roots,,,then give it a go a couple of inches below ground level to get the bucket well hooked into the stump and if it wont push,,,then roll the bucket up. The leverage up close like that is tremendous and will most often take out stump and root ball all in one piece...regards,,,and thanks for the video
Good tips Bill! For the types of trees in this video that works excellent (I've used that on trees since this video, or even before, but figured nobody would want to watch me spend 5 minutes on one tree). For the oaks around here not so much, the tap roots are TOUGH. In those cases a chain at the high end and pulling works decently. What you said works decently on some of the fairly rotten stumps around my property. One thing I learned too, is try the other direction! I was digging out the side nearest me, and both sides, then trying to push or pop the stump up and was having a LOT of trouble. When I put the bucket to the other side and pulled, it came up no problem! (Maybe the roots were rotten on that side? Not sure, but I wasn't getting anywhere on the side I was working on, but trying a different direction worked great). I've thought about getting a subsoiler or making a root cutter solely for this type of activity and doing what you are suggesting. It would help the 3-6" or so maples and beech, though using the bucket on the roots and a chain up high they can usually be pulled. This past weekend I used my tractor to pull an 8" oak out of the ground. That one I obviously had NO chance of brute force working. I dug down a couple feet and sawed through the roots I could expose. I put a chain about 12' up (as high as I can reach from the bucket of the tractor) around the trunk, hooked that to a couple pulleys and used a dyneema rope and 4:1 mechanical advantage to pull the tree over and ultimately out. It took 3 or 4 hours, digging, cutting, pulling, and repeating, but I got it out stump, roots, and all! I probably won't do that too much, I don't want to ruin that rope, but for a few situations it works great.
Needs to be careful driving hard into the underbrush, his Tractor has the steering arms in front of the axle housing. They’re exposed and can be easily damaged.
Inheritance? Everything I have was bought with my own money. Cash inheritance to date = $0. Noncash inheritance = 1 shotgun and 2 rifles about 15 years ago.
Handful of Tranquility nobody treats something they bought with their hard earned money like that. If I was there I would of went up and slapped you in the back of the head and send you to your room.
It's never fails to amaze me the youngsters that get on these little tractors & think that there a tank with a bucket on the front. It would @ least help if they made it mandatory just as getting your driver's license @ least know how to safely operate the equipment & qualify with a minimum 8 hrs basic training so that equipment, lives, & property is not seriously damaged out of ignorance & pride.
Great channel. Good luck with the kubota. They are working out great for me. I have a Kubota l4740 with a backhoe, logging winch etc. You can see it at work on my channel. I have logging, fishing, camping and special tractor projects videos on my channel, P.S. I support the paying it forward rage where a content provider like you and me subscribes to each another's channel. This way everybody gets more subscribers. Thanks Ray
Partner listen to the comments. A loader is not a dozer. Now go put on some big boy pants and learn how to use your tractor properly, you'll be much happier.
I'm looking at this exact same tractor used. Comes with the FEL . forks and grapple, 3pt snowblower, 3pt box blade, land pride rotary tiller for 20,500$. is this a decent price? it's a 2015 with just under 250 hrs
That seems like an okay price if you are WANTING all the accessories it comes with. I paid $24,000 out he door with taxes included for mine with FEL and FRONT mount snowblower (which is MUCH nicer than facing the rear!) at 0% interest on a 5 year loan. I think if you caught them at the right time you could probably get $1500-2000 off from rebates. I also haggled my dealer down by another $2000 off from the build price. Forks are maybe $500, but grapples are much more. A 3 point snowblower is a pain to use, but better than a shovel. THey are maybe $600-1500 used on craigslist. Box blades $300-700 and tillers $1500-2500. So if we add that up that is maybe $6000 worth of accessories, again, IF you are wanting them all, so then the tractor with FEL drops to more like $14,000. In that case you are saving 2000-6000 depending on what the incentives are at different times of year and what package you get. But, you have to come up with the cash all at once. If you DONT want all those items I wouldn't necessarily count on selling them all for the prices listed above either. In that case, its less of a good deal. Either way, get under it and check out the color of the filters. THe factory filters are a dark grey, the service filters are white. If the filters underneath (3, oil, HST, and hydraulic) are grey that means they didn't do the 50 hour or 200 hour service they were supposed to do. Even the dealer doesn't have the dark grey filters that come on these new.
Spoken by an idiot who obviously doesn't own any equipment or ever safely operated any. You spend a few hundred thousand on equipment and implements and tell me how you'd treat it.
Wow. I know nothing about tractors, nor have I ever driven or used one. That said, this is the worst tractor use I've ever seen. Should he at least clear the big stuff out first. Just saying.
Pomona Dawgpound , no need to sell her on it, she is on board with the ability to get us out of the snow. For instance, while we don't have much snow yet, maybe 6" on the road, I snow-blowed over 1/4 mile of the private road to make sure it didn't accumulate too much and it took hardly any time. I could easily make a path the whole 1/2 mile to get us out if need be. It isn't fast or fun, a plow would be much faster of course, but a plow truck would have only a single use. That, and my driveway isn't really good for plowing, there are trees on both sides so the snow would really build up I imagine. All the things I use the tractor for make me very thankful to have it. I put up an ice rink last weekend, just carrying all the 2x10's would have been quite an effort (doable by anyone given enough time, but an effort). I loaded them up on the pallet forks, moved them, and saved myself half an hour at least.
I paid $22k for the package, but I think about 6k of that was the snowblower, hydraulic chute rotation, and quick hitch. The base tractor and loader I think were around 16-18k. I cant really break it out exactly because I gave them a package price that they met (which I got from another dealer that was a bit further and was trying to entice my business). I got it about 2k off of the list/incentive pricing. I would have gone used, but you essentially CANNOT find an equivalent tractor on craigslist or the machinery sites in my area. Everything was either BX series or L series.
you really need to learn how to operate equipment before you use it that was hard to watch you on that thing...I think ill go hug my Kubota and tell her I love her lol
I dont know why people buy brand new equipment just to learn. Learn on a junker. Then once you know how to run a machin get the new one. Cant stand it when a machine properly taken care of will last 40 years instead of getting destroyed early
a Little advice dont run the RPM's so high and when you push over a tree if a fair size lift your bucket up 3-4 feet when it go's over back up and push the roots ..play around learn what works best ..dont do the same shit day after day
This is not hard on the machine , this is nothing. I'm not saying it was "smooth operating" but it certainly didn't even phase that tractor... Dood needs to take his time tho
Thanks HipHop. I take my time probably 90% of the time, but as you can see I ended up with an 8 minute video as it is. I'm trying to get stuff done so you guys don't have to sit here for 20 minutes watching the most boring video in the world. I'm sure digging stuff out and tearing through stuff isn't the best for the tractor, but I bet of the 100 hours (that I JUST rolled), doing stuff like this doesn't account for 5 hours of the time on the machine (probably less). But I think you are right, these machines are built tough. Sure, you can break things, but even simply driving around the woods or brush-hogging can do the same thing. If I use it for more than toodling around the driveway, things will happen and need repaired.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Kamdyn Frederick Instablaster ;)
@Lian Benton I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Lian Benton It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
Good job clearing the brush and small trees. I'm glad to see that you are not afraid to put the tractor to work. Don't listen to the other people who are saying you are going to damage your tractor; your tractor can easily handle clearing brush and trees of that size.. I have a smaller John Deere 2210 that I have used numerous times to clear brush and trees like that; it is 13 years old and still runs like a new one.
this is why most people like to buy new equipment if they can afford it. you never know what the guy before thrashed with it
ConservativeYankee22 Barr س،نص
its a good tractor and well made. but its not a bulldozer.
thats why my kubota dealer just give it to customers and let it pay for it self wich hes awsome
my dealer sells a tree mulcher attachments for them to chew trees with
ConservativeYankee22 Barr Guy? More like idiot. One is born every second.
If ignorance is bliss you are one happy dude.
I did this with my Poulan 42 " cut mower yesterday.Thanks for the video though now i know i need the next size up.
Wow... I would like to see the same tractor now.....
I agree with hip hop opotamus. Tractor was not hurt. A Piranha Tooth Bar And smooth operation with time is all that is needed
Thanks for the best raming- speed vidio I ever seen. The majority of the comments certently agree. The 24,000$ price tag with kubota credit = no money down 400.$ a month = 13.33$ a day = .18cents a minute for a whole lot of silly fun. I guess , " more money the brains" works here mighty fine. And 5000 to one ratio of ditstruction on built equity in machinery usage. And I thought my 3year old 35,000$ Mx5200 TLB 526hr 68% paid for machine was worked hard. By comparison at your ratio it's only 2% used up. Good luck on U Tube re-embursments.
My guess is his parents aren't home and he found the Kubota keys.
Dad's gonna be pissed!
I have had the same tractor as you for 3 years now. Have been doing just the same work. I do not have ONE scratch/scuff or mark on my tractor from the work. You need to slow down or you are going to get hurt. I don't care what you do to/with your tractor but YOU can not be fixed or replaced. IT CAN. You almost lost an oil pan. And an eye a time or two.
Higgy babby,,, my god magnum!!!
There is no "Handful of Tranquility" for that poor Kubota.
Someone...please remind me to never let him use my tractor..ever....
or buy one from him
This is where a masticator head on a skid steer comes in really handy.
I bought a brush mulched for my B26, rear attachment. It runs off of the PTO. My property looks similar to yours, most of which are 3” scrub oaks and brush. You might be better served with the muncher, cuts through brush leaving small chips behind. No piles or need to burn. Also, 5x faster with less wear and tear.
Great vid, those critical of it are probably Those who have a 4wd and don’t take it off road
When you knock down a 3 inch tree dig around it. Reach the bucket up 5 feet or more then push the tree over. It will up root. Put it in low range and ease into it.
Hi Chris. I agree, these are the most useful (and agile) machines for a larger property.
@ Chang- you should consider renting one to do the stuff in this video!
I would not comment except for the fact we were doing exactly the same kind of work on an abandoned farm in Maritime Canada last month. The 33 HP Kubota I rented cut and uprooted 20' saplings with ease, plus I had a bush hog behind to mulch what was left. It transformed woodlot clearings into a walkable system of trails around the main meadow. The property is 25 acres that most recently belonged to a much-loved alcohol bootlegger character.
I carried a Swedish brush ax and cut low limbs from my seat while driving, which were also mulched by the rotary mower. It was just TOO FUN getting years of "deferred maintenance" done in one week. Realize the brush will come back, so plan on spraying the areas with herbicide this Fall.
Cost of the rental was US $120 per day at the current exchange rate. I did use a chain saw in 2 places to allow threading through older growth trees. In just 5 days, we reclaimed 8 acres of meadows and field, made a nice perimeter trail, and also hauled 3 tons of old junk metal equipment and fencing to a pile where scrappers could remove it. You don't want to discover a truck frame or engine block under 6' tall weeds on a tractor you just bought...
We will definitely buy a Kubota once this farm is in shape and we are ready to move there from Pennsylvania. The plan is to transition it to Permaculture-like crops, bees and small stock, managing the woodlot for fuel and lumber. I wish it wasn't necessary to use chemicals on the brush and weeds, but we lack time and physical stamina to repeatedly cut and grub out
all the spruce, rose, birch and alder that will keep shooting back up if we don't.
Thanks for showing the world how satisfying it can be to go outside and do something! I hope you remain well at Tranquility.
Sorry for rambling on, but we lack the video skill you obviously have! It is so refreshing to see people who aren't hiding in their houses all day.
Best regards,
Dave
Dave,
The 20' saplings must not have been oaks! I have taken down 20-30 trees as well, but only shallow rooted ones. The oaks around here, oh my goodness do they have a huge tap root! A tree that is only 10' tall and 2-3" diameter can have a tap root 5"+ in diameter and 2' long!
I agree with renting a tractor as being a great option for many. I was able to take an area from similar to what you see in a video to a 20x20 completely clear area, top soil scraped off, and fill sand leveled to put on a 14x14 pole barn all in about 8 hours of work (split over a couple days). The local place here does a bit higher price for a bit smaller tractor (b2710 for $160 per day). Still, you would not be able to do the same amount of work in a week or more clearing out all the roots and topsoil and such. Sure, you could cut the trees, but no way would you get the other stuff too!
I think I would have sat on that junk metal for a bit. Steel prices aren't high right now (3-5 cents per pound compared to a year back where it was 10 cents a pound), but you probably could have paid for another couple days with the tractor just with the scrap! I know what you mean though while trying to clear, that is why I keep my bucket down low while bush-hogging saplings in the woods, there are lots of stumps and I got tired of breaking shear bolts.
I hope you get your place up and going soon, I have lots of planting to do here with the 40+ trees I just bought (only 10 or 12 are edible, the rest are privacy trees). It will be a busy fall!
Now I see why so many of them are for sale. Thanks
A word of caution (to others)... know your environment before playing "dozer" with your new cab-less 2500 lb compact tractor. It takes only one honey locust branch snapping back across your face... and you're blind, like permanently. But that's my environment. Bois 'Darc, Honey Locust, Poison Oak and Ivy saplings cemented into the Caliche clay. Boots, long pants, gloves, eye protection and either a phone or radio to call the wife when the 900 lbs standing unexpectedness falls and pins me to the tractor frame.
These little tractors certainly can knock a hole in your woods. And they can kill you just as quick. Slow down. Slow down more. Keep your head on a swivel. Final "Safety Sally tip" for the masses... the ROPS only work if you're underneath them at the time of unexpectedness. Wear your seat belt.
A suggestion (to other compact owners with dozer aspirations)... around these parts, I can get a 10,000 lb Bobcat (with operator) for about $650 per day. And if you plan with your Bobcat Man, w/him dozing and you shunting the dozings... you'll likely only need him for a day. That $650 investment will buy you back YEARS of life on your tractor, get your clearing done in a fraction of the time... and it might just save you physical damage, or worse.
My two cents, anyways.
All points are noted... And thank you. * Sound advice and well taken
I can't watch you beat up a nice new machine.
It’s a really weak th
I liked the video. You looked like you were having fun! Kubotas are awesome machines. Taking the weeds down like this is far more preferable to using a bush hog if you are dealing with Poison Ivy or similar plants. Hitting those plants with a bush hog, string trimmer or flamer will vaporize the volatile oils in them to the point that you would be breathing in the aerosol. Poison Ivy rash is bad but having that same reaction in your lungs is far worse. Potentially deadly. Especially if you are asthmatic. Keep up the work. I subscribed so I can watch more of it. Have a great day!
You're living the dream. You bought it enjoy it. Get your money's worth out of that thing
Chainsaw and a logging chain to use the tractor for dragging stuff away. Then use bucket for pushing in a pile. Forget the fact it's hard on the tractor, It's NOT working lol
B2650 = $18500
Poulan Pro chainsaw and extra blade = $200
Where you buy a 2650 for 18500
Excelent advice Duck Cluck Goose
This newby never watched a kubota repair vidio or any Wille-Coiti cartunes, but we get to see them again in the real world.
The tree had its revenge lol!
This bloke must have some cash if that’s how he treats his machinery
Makes me want to buy one.
Just not THAT one!
The second you drove into that first tree I could tell its your first machine. The strongest point of that tractor is the bucket curl and lift power. Use it rather than bulldozing stuff over. Might save you from a stump in the oil pan. Slow down and let the hydro power of the loader and bucket do it thing. I cringed a few times watching this. Its a very nice machine you have there and one most people cant afford to ever own. I was waiting to see a hydro line get pulled off. Whew
Handful of brains
No Joke, I don't want to be one of those guys bashing your methods and sounding like I jerk but I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Slow Down! Think Things Through! Wear Your Seat Belt! I don't want anyone to have a tree shoved through their chest or be laying out there with the tractor on top of you.
what a badass machine :)
I guess some people have more money than sense.
Great video looking at getting one 2020
Dude, that thing just got beat harder than Rihanna.
If you want to use the land for roads or planting, cutting the brush first will leave you with much better and more usable results. Also, if you use a lower gear, a 'working' gear', you will spin less, do less damage to your machine and get better results. Cheers.
I love it but very expensive for me
so beautiful tractor
You should have used your bush hog first. A bush hog would have cut that with no problem.
a brush hog would not those thick ass trees! my subcompact brush hog is good but I cut no thicker than my pinky finger
My 4' brush hog can cut much thicker than my pinky finger, but it can hardly cut down a 4" tree! I can cut down a 2", maybe 3" if I take my time. You run over it, raise the brush hog up, then slowly move forward. Slowly lower the brush hog until you basically eat your way through it. Then raise it again, move forward until you just catch the now stump, and slowly lower it again, you'll run it like a wood chipper and slowly take it down. Not super time effective, but it works. For straight chopping through, my 4" will go through 1" no problem, and can often do 1.5" without taking out the shear bolt. I have gone through quite a few shear bolts, I am thankful for Tractor Supply having them by the lb for cheap. I don't see stumps many times, or the tree is bigger than I thought, and there goes the shear bolt.
Gosh even when I was in high school I never abused a tractor like that.
I couldn’t watch this anymore. I’ve run equipment for 53 years now and never beat my equipment or anyone else’s like that. My tractors when sold were well over 6000 hours and almost like new. The time spent beating down this brush with a tractor, I would have had at knocked down with a chain saw. But his money, his tractor. Case closed.
Not bad. I would suggest a grapple when the budget allows.
The make a thing call a bulldozer they work good 👌
Nice machine, I suggest picking up a grappler next time before doing this kind of project. Get a chain saw and cut them down real quick, then use the grapple to skoop them up. If you need closer to the ground pick up a bush hog roto cutter and drop it on the stumps.
Other than you allowing the logs and branches to hit your undercarriage and straining your hdyro fluid system a bit when pushing down stumps, I am not sure why everyone is so up about you 'beating your tractor'? I push my BX just as bad except the direct damage and avoid the 'whine'.
My uncles machine is the same and his is older and pushed WAY harder then both of ours combined. Kubota is tough.
Yep, it will work like that for a while but you are definitely thrashing it. My boss broke the frame on both sides of his diesel Kubota. The repair was about 70% of the purchase price. They had to completely disassemble the tractor and re-assemble it onto the new frame. Very time consuming repair job. Get-r-done Son!!!!
The really funny part is that my boss still fancies himself quite the machinery operator.... haha! The guy's at the dealership want his money so they never tell him what a LeRoy he is... they just keep taking his money.
never beat the tough strong kubota
wouldn't buy a use tractor from this guy
I would think a coupe of other implement would do you a lot better. Like root rake grapple. Brush cutter. Etc.
lol the reason I buy new whenever I can. Poor tractor RIP
I've been running all kind of equipment for many years. The tractor could do the work with ease, but the operator did not know what he was doing. One you're running entirely too fast on the tractor to you had no ballast on the back. 3 that's not the way you laid the trees over. If you need help, just ask. I'm sure there's some guys on here that will explain how to do this. Including myself
How would you say is the correct way to lay over a tree?
@@justwilldo03 well for one when pushing a tree your bucket is supposed to be higher than he has his it gives the tractor more leverage and if the tree won't push over you dig behind the tree and boath sides dig around it good enough to cut the roots then raise your bucket up and try to push the tree agen when the tree falls lower your bucket to a flat position and push the root straightforward hope this helps and remember not to run equipment fast that's a good way to tairup equipment and get hurt
@@alabamainformedpublic. im still kinda new to the tractor world myself. But how you described is pretty much how I do it. I just wanted to double check my process, I'm sure I've gone faster than I should at times but only when it was close. I definitely think its better to chop the roots, better to push the tree over versus it breaking then being left with a stump to deal with
Buy a tooth bar. Will do wonders for you, and will protect the cutting edge on the bucket (very important)
Joey Oliver exactly
I got my hydraulic lines caught up running over trees like that...I like a back blade and AG tires better for that kind of work
i have l 4400 2009 45 hp i lose a rad doing this and it was $ 700.00 bucks to replace thats just for the rad i did the labor myself cheap plastic top and bottom on these rads a branch caught right at where the hose connects to the bottom of the rad and cracked the plastic if the rad was all metal like the old ones this would not have happened any ways i am about to build a deflector to protect mine just a heads up . ps if i am going to spend that much money on a tractor i am going to use it not baby it never mind all the comments about you abusing the tractor your not hurting it at all
great video! you still like your B2650? Im about to buy one and was wondering about what shredder to buy. They say I should stick with a 4 ft? do you have a shredder? --thanks
What do you mean by a shredder? Do you mean a rotary cutter ("bush hog" or "brush hog" here in the states)? IF that is what you mean, I have a 4ft and it is perfect for me, but I only use it for cutting saplings in the woods and VERY minimal amounts of grass. If I had fields to cut I'd be pretty tempted to get a 5' one. I've never had issues with power running mine, but then its the heavy grass that would bog it down and I just dont have that here.
I do still love my B2650. Were I to do it all over again knowing what I know now I might have considered the L series though. I ended up with this one because of the mid PTO for running a front snow blower, but if I did it again I'd look hard at a skid steer snow blower and a PTO driven hydraulic pump to run it. The extra weight could be nice, though there is very little my tractor hasn't been able to do that I've asked of it (and the things that it couldn't, I don't think the next size up would have done either). I do stuff all the time with my B2650 that I KNOW the BX series could NOT handle. If you have a few acres or more, or have heavy hobbies, I recommend the B series.
I picked up a 6 person hot tub straight off the trailer (straps and my pallet forks), I pick up my 63" snow blower and put it on pallet racking (this is towards the upper limit of the front end loader capability, and coming down you have to be GENTLE or its scary). I lift logs when I pinch the chain saw in them (bolt on grab hooks on the bucket, or if it is too heavy for the bucket then I put the chain on the 3pt quick hitch which is rated for 2000lb lift). I carry stuff ALL the time to the back end of the property (though the BX series could easily handle that as well). I needed to weld in my un-powered pole barn so I fired up my 12kw PTO generator (large enough to run my whole house with ZERO problem) to power the welder. I grade my 1/2 mile of private dirt road which would be SO annoying with a smaller tractor and blade since it'd take twice as many passes. I dug a 2' deep path on the back of my property and plopped the dirt down next to it to make a berm for a bit of privacy if anybody is walking by. I use it to pull my trailer full of fire wood (3000lbs or so loaded I bet). I picked the bed up off my truck for working on the fuel pump, anything smaller would have had issues with the reach, possibly the weight. I dug out two shooting ranges with it which didn't take too terribly long to do in my pure sand (though it can get scary trying to get out with a bucket full of sand in sand).
Despite only having 137 hours on it still, it feels like I use it all the time for random things. Heck, just today I used it for an elevated working platform for a better angle for swinging a sledge hammer remotely in the back of the property. Hop up 2-3 feet, adjust as needed.
Oh, and one tip. If you have more than one local dealer, play them off each other. I had one closest I knew I was most likely to use. I called another further and said "I'm closer to dealer X, but still close to you. I was planning on going with them, but thought I'd give you a chance to see if you could make it worth my while for this package" and I spec'd out exactly what I wanted. THey came back with a price about $2000 lower than the local dealer. So, I called the sales guy at the local dealer and said "they came back with this price and are close enough to deliver, can you match the price and deliver? If so I'll go with you". They matched it, saved me the couple grand, and delivered the tractor and accessories to my driveway.
very smart!! I have been getting prices from a few just to see the difference. thanks!
sorry..yes its brush hog....I have fields..only 10 acres but didn't know if it could handle a 5ft one?
I think you could handle 5', but you may have to slow down. Same thing with snow blowers, by conventional wisdom mine cant handle the 63" snowblower they sell for it. At the same time, if its too deep, drop it in low speed, and with the HST you can go even slower. Throw it on cruise control at a speed that works and call it good. I think it'd be worth trying a 5' brush hog. If you get a decent enough deal you'll be able to sell it for what you paid for it if it doesn't work out, so you won't be out much. I don't envy mowing 10 acres of fields; it wasn't fun when I used a 10' double wing cutter! I don't have access to any heavy thick grass to try mine out and let you know how it handles it. Again, I think if you just slow down you'd be able to. I don't think a smaller cutter would really go any faster; you'd have more overlap. Sure, you'd be able to DRIVE faster, but with the smaller cut width and more overlap relative to the amount of cut, I think a larger one going slower would cut the same acres per hour (and probably be easier on you from the suspension aspect, slower is definitely more comfortable than faster unless its perfectly smooth).
you lucky that the branch didn't pierce through your radiator..
OK - assuming you do not get whacked in the face be a spring back branch! Some cage needed in the woods!
This is how you screw stuff up using it like a bull dozer.and if you ask me why i know this is because i’ve seen plenty of people doing it and even my uncle done it and now that tractor sits the broke down like it has been for years because he used it like a damn bulldozer
You need at lease a moderate size dc-9 dozer that can scoop, and excavate.
Mate have you ever considered competing in a Demolition Derby, lol. I've worked on tractors for 40yrs and even though you say your tractor has more grunt than a BX, it's still a toy and it will break if you continue like that. But it's not my tractor, you could put a match to it and let it burn to keep yourself warm at night for all I care. I gave you a thumbs up at least you had the guts to post. Cheers from Australia.
Nice
when you encounter a tree that you cant push easily,,go to the side and dip several times to cut the side roots,,,then at 90 degrees,,,go at it again and beside the trunk,,cut more roots,,,then give it a go a couple of inches below ground level to get the bucket well hooked into the stump and if it wont push,,,then roll the bucket up. The leverage up close like that is tremendous and will most often take out stump and root ball all in one piece...regards,,,and thanks for the video
Good tips Bill! For the types of trees in this video that works excellent (I've used that on trees since this video, or even before, but figured nobody would want to watch me spend 5 minutes on one tree). For the oaks around here not so much, the tap roots are TOUGH. In those cases a chain at the high end and pulling works decently.
What you said works decently on some of the fairly rotten stumps around my property. One thing I learned too, is try the other direction! I was digging out the side nearest me, and both sides, then trying to push or pop the stump up and was having a LOT of trouble. When I put the bucket to the other side and pulled, it came up no problem! (Maybe the roots were rotten on that side? Not sure, but I wasn't getting anywhere on the side I was working on, but trying a different direction worked great).
I've thought about getting a subsoiler or making a root cutter solely for this type of activity and doing what you are suggesting. It would help the 3-6" or so maples and beech, though using the bucket on the roots and a chain up high they can usually be pulled.
This past weekend I used my tractor to pull an 8" oak out of the ground. That one I obviously had NO chance of brute force working. I dug down a couple feet and sawed through the roots I could expose. I put a chain about 12' up (as high as I can reach from the bucket of the tractor) around the trunk, hooked that to a couple pulleys and used a dyneema rope and 4:1 mechanical advantage to pull the tree over and ultimately out. It took 3 or 4 hours, digging, cutting, pulling, and repeating, but I got it out stump, roots, and all! I probably won't do that too much, I don't want to ruin that rope, but for a few situations it works great.
Do you still have it
throttle the tractor up and slow down a bit, trust me it's a whole lot easier..man u on 100 lol!!
Its your radiator, oh well
I saw a guy do that one time a drove a two inch tree limb right into his guts
you are fulll of shit!
Go slower and put a box blade on back for ballast and you will have WAY more traction. Get a Piranha tooth bar for the bucket.
Needs to be careful driving hard into the underbrush, his Tractor has the steering arms in front of the axle housing. They’re exposed and can be easily damaged.
You need a ratchet rake on the bucket. + a weight on the back.
How not to run a tractor! What a hack!
You dont just run over trees like that you have to get a saw of any type dude even if its a hand saw!
Ön tekerleri genişletmek istiyorum yardımcı olurrmusunuz
That's the problem with small equipment, any idiot can buy one with their inheritance.
Inheritance? Everything I have was bought with my own money. Cash inheritance to date = $0. Noncash inheritance = 1 shotgun and 2 rifles about 15 years ago.
Handful of Tranquility nobody treats something they bought with their hard earned money like that. If I was there I would of went up and slapped you in the back of the head and send you to your room.
Wow.
It's never fails to amaze me the youngsters that get on these little tractors & think that there a tank with a bucket on the front. It would @ least help if they made it mandatory just as getting your driver's license @ least know how to safely operate the equipment & qualify with a minimum 8 hrs basic training so that equipment, lives, & property is not seriously damaged out of ignorance & pride.
You and the guy on the J&J Acres RUclips channel should get together and trade secrets on how to beat new tractors to death. LOL!!
Oh I can't wait to watch that channel! 🤣
🚜🔥
Just use the bucket to pick up the front end and the back tires will pull you off.
He could've simply dug a few feet in front of the small tree and loosened the roots which aren't deep. Undue wear on that machine.
This guy is very hard on this Kubota ,I would not even toush mine .
Wow...
Great channel. Good luck with the kubota. They are working out great for me. I have a Kubota l4740 with a backhoe, logging winch etc. You can see it at work on my channel. I have logging, fishing, camping and special tractor projects videos on my channel, P.S. I support the paying it forward rage where a content provider like you and me subscribes to each another's channel. This way everybody gets more subscribers. Thanks Ray
Most of what was being cut (up to 1 to 2 inch size) could have been done with a brush hog.
Partner listen to the comments. A loader is not a dozer. Now go put on some big boy pants and learn how to use your tractor properly, you'll be much happier.
The hydraulics weren’t lifting the tractor because he barely gave it throttle
You might want to look into buying a bush hog instead of just making a big mess.
Loader low mowing mid highway high gear
Those poor trees were not hurting anybody 25ft off the road , plus they were making oxygen for our planet.
Stop drinking the bong water!
I'm looking at this exact same tractor used. Comes with the FEL . forks and grapple, 3pt snowblower, 3pt box blade, land pride rotary tiller for 20,500$. is this a decent price? it's a 2015 with just under 250 hrs
That seems like an okay price if you are WANTING all the accessories it comes with. I paid $24,000 out he door with taxes included for mine with FEL and FRONT mount snowblower (which is MUCH nicer than facing the rear!) at 0% interest on a 5 year loan. I think if you caught them at the right time you could probably get $1500-2000 off from rebates. I also haggled my dealer down by another $2000 off from the build price.
Forks are maybe $500, but grapples are much more. A 3 point snowblower is a pain to use, but better than a shovel. THey are maybe $600-1500 used on craigslist. Box blades $300-700 and tillers $1500-2500. So if we add that up that is maybe $6000 worth of accessories, again, IF you are wanting them all, so then the tractor with FEL drops to more like $14,000. In that case you are saving 2000-6000 depending on what the incentives are at different times of year and what package you get. But, you have to come up with the cash all at once. If you DONT want all those items I wouldn't necessarily count on selling them all for the prices listed above either. In that case, its less of a good deal.
Either way, get under it and check out the color of the filters. THe factory filters are a dark grey, the service filters are white. If the filters underneath (3, oil, HST, and hydraulic) are grey that means they didn't do the 50 hour or 200 hour service they were supposed to do. Even the dealer doesn't have the dark grey filters that come on these new.
Handful of Tranquility thanks for the reply. appreciate it.
Jesus Christ dude . Beat that tractor some more .
He'd be gentler on it if he doused it in gas and lit it on fire.
Spoken by an idiot who obviously doesn't own any equipment or ever safely operated any. You spend a few hundred thousand on equipment and implements and tell me how you'd treat it.
nice tractor join our facebook group kubota tractor and equipment for lots of tips and helpful folks who love kubota tractors
Wow. I know nothing about tractors, nor have I ever driven or used one. That said, this is the worst tractor use I've ever seen. Should he at least clear the big stuff out first. Just saying.
The hydrostatic whine AAaaaaaaggg I'll never use a hydro.
Sounds like you're trying to sell your wife on your purchase......lol
Pomona Dawgpound , no need to sell her on it, she is on board with the ability to get us out of the snow. For instance, while we don't have much snow yet, maybe 6" on the road, I snow-blowed over 1/4 mile of the private road to make sure it didn't accumulate too much and it took hardly any time. I could easily make a path the whole 1/2 mile to get us out if need be. It isn't fast or fun, a plow would be much faster of course, but a plow truck would have only a single use. That, and my driveway isn't really good for plowing, there are trees on both sides so the snow would really build up I imagine. All the things I use the tractor for make me very thankful to have it. I put up an ice rink last weekend, just carrying all the 2x10's would have been quite an effort (doable by anyone given enough time, but an effort). I loaded them up on the pallet forks, moved them, and saved myself half an hour at least.
Get yourself a brush hog or better yet...a Brown tree cutter.
☺☺☺
That machine will have a short life.
mountain maple maybe?
How much is that tractor?
I paid $22k for the package, but I think about 6k of that was the snowblower, hydraulic chute rotation, and quick hitch. The base tractor and loader I think were around 16-18k. I cant really break it out exactly because I gave them a package price that they met (which I got from another dealer that was a bit further and was trying to entice my business). I got it about 2k off of the list/incentive pricing.
I would have gone used, but you essentially CANNOT find an equivalent tractor on craigslist or the machinery sites in my area. Everything was either BX series or L series.
you really need to learn how to operate equipment before you use it that was hard to watch you on that thing...I think ill go hug my Kubota and tell her I love her lol
I dont know why people buy brand new equipment just to learn. Learn on a junker. Then once you know how to run a machin get the new one. Cant stand it when a machine properly taken care of will last 40 years instead of getting destroyed early
Ugh, yeah , people treat equipment like this, scares me.
Skid steer would of got it with no problem.
You need to put some teeth on the bucket. Better for combing out this kind if bush.
Bolt on or weld some angle irons with sharpened ends.
a Little advice dont run the RPM's so high and when you push over a tree if a fair size lift your bucket up 3-4 feet when it go's over back up and push the roots ..play around learn what works best ..dont do the same shit day after day