4 years of college, graduating as a master ASE cert mechanic. The Instructors regularly play your videos in their presentations for all the students. I, now happily have my own mobile auto repair business, and continue to watch all of your videos in my free time. My favorites are the electrical diagnostics. Amazing how much you know, how well you explain, and how great your videos are. Your nickname at my college is “South Main Wizard”. LOL. Anyway, everyone loves what you do, keep it up! We appreciate it.
I'm amazed that there are colleges where you can receive a degree for learning how to use your hands, and your head for something that will guarantee the graduate a really good income. I'm 77, and all I know I've learned by doing.
Yup. Eric O demonstrates that diagnostics are paramount to making a proper repair instead of throwing parts at the issue. Congrats on your certificate.
26 yrs as a HVAC mechanic, you couldn't have said it better about the real mechanics seem to get squat compared to hack parts changers. It's great to see there are still true mechanics who actually care about doing the right thing and are proud
I've had that experience in HVAC too. I'm a homeowner and I have had two instances where control boards got flaky. I called HVAC guys they just wanted to shoot a new control board at it. I figured I have nothing to lose, in both cases I pulled the control board and the problem inside was just a cold solder joint in one case, and a loose connector in the other. Fixed for $0
Damn it Eric O. I watched both videos to see you fix the CHMSL and nothing on video but talk😂😂😂😂 I’m definitely a real crimp and seal connection guy! Just not that fake harbor freight crap. Thanks for another great series. Your work ethic is inspiring
I'm doing some work for a customer and she asked me to look at the lock on the garage door, as it had come loose and partially out, she managed to wriggle it back in again, but couldn't trust it. She had called the door manufacturers, who quoted £150 to come and look at the repair. I found that it was a Euro type cylinder lock and the M5 securing screw had vanished, put a new screw in with Loctite, job done. I told her I would add 50 pence onto the rest of the bill. Some manufacturers are real rip off merchants.
Some people see my South Main Auto t-shirt here in Kentucky and ask why I'm wearing that NY stuff. I tell them, unless you watch this guy, you'll never understand. Thanks, Eric!!❤❤❤
I’m a professional cotter key bender and I think you did a great job. Next time we have a cotter key bender convention, we would like to have you as a guest speaker
I love how Eric brings up how the internet is full of professionals: ”You’re doing this wrong! I’m a professional solder, welder, concrete person, home builder, cotter pin bender…” 😄
Let's all take a moment to appreciate the TAPE skills of this guy! Cutting, not stretching to break, not using teeth, taping ends of loom, covering loom, strain points of all the sections of harness, and not wrinkled and kinked or mixed with dirt. Quality AND Appearance are hallmarks of a professional. Good job!
This is why visual inspections are key. When I get electrical complaint concerns, more than half the time I can find the issue glaring at me through a hack job repair that sticks out like a sore thumb. You can bet the farm on the quality of the repair, by how the repair looks. If it's obvious someone had the harness splayed open, their repair is usually the problem after the fact.
@@Yophillips3272Solder does crack often. I’m not die hard one only mode of repair - everything has its own pros and cons. Got to goes with the situation.
Dairy farm …..shit happens…especially at the burn pile where the farmhand unloaded the truck…backed in too far….Yadda, yadda, yadda…..then denies any knowledge of anything……
Hi Eric, The Ford heatshrink is actually Raychem ES2000. Mouser and DigiKey both carry it. I'm sure other places have it too. Common sizes are ES-1 to ES-4.
Another 37 minutes of me not watching depressing, anger filled RUclips content.(Politics and world news). Soldering while on your back is not a job I like doing. Thanks for your meticulous diagnosis and professional repairs. Carry on Carrying on, Mr. O
You win the You Tube comment of the day award for having the only political comment that is not politically devisive and that everyone should be able to agree with! Hats off to you!
When I worked at an RV dealership, we had a Winnebago that had an electrical short. Troubleshooting the dash, Winnebago had no electrical diagrams of the dashboard wiring and neither did Chevrolet who supplied the chassis for Winnebago to build on. On top of that, when the mechanic pulled the dashboard, all the wires were purple in color! A fun time was held by all!!! 😂😂😂
@@fascistpedant758Making every wire on a machine the same color sounds like the kind of idea I'd expect from a 4yr old engineer. Must be who's building Chinese motorbikes cuz I've personally worked on those with all black wires
Freightliner, Mack, Peterbuilt, Kenworth, they do the same thing on some of their models. They use the number system, which doesn’t help if there is no diagram… I feel your pain. It’s cheaper to run all one color wire and print a number code to follow the harnessing easier that way. JLG , Skyjack, and Genie, and others alike do that too.
How's the job like as a Ford Tech? I just applied with no experience and they're considering hiring me. Trying to learn wiring diagrams right now, even though they won't start me off with huge stuff like that.
Solder and heat shrink has always been my favorite splicing technique. I have never had a failure, but then I haven't worked on nearly as many vehicles.
I actuallt left the dealers years ago to go work in the Ford Sterling Axle Plant but it's like any other job, it's all about what you make it. Good luck to you I hope you do well! Lord knows we need some good techs these days! @@andrewb229
@@machintelligenceAbsolutely! I tried butt connectors on construction work truck trailer wiring WAY back at the beginning of my career, and learned REAL fast that those things are evil, and I went to soldering and using shrink-wrap with the glue/sealer inside it, and NEVER had any issues again.
I am not a RUclips content creator. Merely a content consumer. However, in my 51 years of living, working 31 years in an auto production plant (the one that built that truck actually) & serving in two military branches (still serving as an aircraft mechanic), I’ve learned to ignore the morons who surround us all. Those who claim to know the most, usually don’t. Stop feeding the trolls Eric. Another great video by the way!
I agree wholeheartedly at the same time poking the trolls encourages them and us to comment, driving up "comment engagement", which in turn drives the video up in the "for you page" algorithm...much like spelling something wrong in the thumbnail titles...so, I guess this is a case that I use to tell myself, "don't hate the player, hate the game"
I’ve been doing general construction/carpentry (residential) for about 20 years now and it’s always hilarious seeing the “you’re doing it wrong” comments from non construction workers. The internet has been a great thing, but has created far too many Google professionals. Love watching you work and figure stuff out. I’ve only recently started getting into mechanic work (for my personal vehicles), but love to watch you pros 🤙
Love how he said he won’t show all the repairs (he didn’t) but showed a lot as he talked to the people. I loved that during certain topics he stopped and just laid back and folded his hands while talking. Felt like philosophy time with Eric O. That’s why we watch!
I can't believe I spent 30 minutes watching a wiring repair, but with Eric O there is always a tidbit every few minutes that can be helpful if I ever have to do it myself, so I keep watching.
Eric’s methods are top of the class. I used to train new employees at Boeing in that method on Ch-47s and V22 Osprey’s. We had a position on the line dedicated solely for autocheckout called DITMCO. We would have the newbies hook up every connector on the aircraft to a computer system programmed for each aircraft and run checks on every wire. part one was point-to-point wiring , and part two was for every circuit breaker and all relays to be energized. I even helped to design a program, an active circuit diagram which showed all the systems in animation for troubleshooting, loved it all
42 years in the telephone business taught me a thing or two. There are very few people I would trust to do a good job repairing something of mine, but if I lived near you, you would be someone I would trust to do the job correctly. Even less people who actually understand what dielectric grease actually does, or doesn't do. My hat is off to you!
It's amazing that with a little bit of visual inspection that you can find this problem so quick and other shops just either throw their hands up or replace hi dollar items that don't need to be replaced and still don't fix the problem, Eric you rock. A mechanic I would trust with any of my vehicles.
Soldering up multiple wires like this is a Zen thing. Methodical, cutting, soldering, waiting for the cool down period/gathering your thoughts, and then continuing until all the wires are done. And then the taping. Finally, the arrangement with the zip ties. There, that's better. I'm thinking Bob Ross..
As it happens, I am, in fact, a professional cotter bin bender, and I can assure you I've never yet seen you bend one wrong. Keep up the high-quality cotter bin bending.
When I wake up and see my messages, I can tell Eric O. will be working under a farm truck looking at multiple green wires and watching out for falling heaps of excrement! Life of a flat rate wrench in the farm/rust belt? You sir broke the internet!
As a warranty manager for a large RV dealership for five years, yes, I can attest that those extended warranties are not worth the paper that they are printed on. The dealership constantly changed companies because of issues but mostly because they went out of business. Every claim that I put forth on behalf of the customers was challenged and the dealership would eat the cost of repairs just to keep customers happy and coming back to buy new RVs. Eventually, the cost of doing business was more than the money made on selling the warranties plus the fact that sales people wouldn't sell them anymore because of the hassle and the dealership stopped selling extended warranties.
I’ve never purchased an extended service plan (which is what they are actually) unless it’s from the vehicle manufacturer. So called third party service plans are notoriously expensive and generally getting a claim paid is extremely difficult and often declined. Dealers like to sell the third party service plans because they make the most money on them. The manufacturers service plans are often a set amount paid to the dealer but we all have had our dance with the “finance department”.
Usually he says what the model is of the tools he is using, had to look them up as he didn’t this video. I believe the soldering iron is the PORTASOL Pro Piezo 75-Watt Heat Tool and the torch is the Power Probe Electronic Micro Torch Kit.
I once did an engine in a used Caravan. The customer only had the vehicle about a month but the used car dealership up sold a warranty for power train only. One would think it should have been easy. As Eric says at the beginning, the warranty company was trying to avoid paying. It had a rod knocking. Typically should be easy diagnosis. Run vehicle, rev up listen etc . Pulled ignition wire to suspect cylinder, noise lessened greatly. This warranty company didn’t like that method of diagnosis. Wanted me to tear down engine ( pull pan) and provide more proof. Then this company would only pay for affected cylinder. Thought i could do it in the vehicle. Couldn’t believe the guy on the other end, he thought piston come out bottom. After explaining procedure he approves claim but customer was on hook for gaskets , fluids and labour to get to that one rod. I refused the work but then we came to agreement. They sent me a Chrysler Reman engine , customer had to pay all labour and incidentals. By my choice,I never did work for that company again.
It impossible to turn the journals on a crankshaft while the engine is IN the vehicle.... WTF was that insurance adjuster thinking?? SURE, a guy CAN easily get a piston and rod out of the engine with it still in the chassis by removing a head, BUT, if the engine is knocking, the crank WILL need to be reworked.
I think these guys on the other end of the phone think cars can be fixed from a book. It was one of those Mitsubishi engines. Trying to explain to the guy about taking head off, dealing with the poor timing gear and guide set up , removing transmission to unbolt crank , and on and on. Then he wanted to put a used rod in. Explaining the damaged journal and resizing the rod to the new bearing. I lost my shit with this guy.
He thought the piston could come out the bottom? With the crankshaft in the way? Wow. What was he thinking, that this was like a chainsaw engine? Or other small 2 stroke, where there is no cylinder head, and the only way piston comes out is from the bottom or like a Lycoming aircraft engine, you pull the whole cylinder jug off. Which yes gives you access to the piston still hopefully attached to it's rod, but then how you going to unbolt that big end cap. Clueless insurance adjusters. I would have lost my shit when the words 'used rod' came out of his mouth. Funny part of that was, why pay for a used rod, when, maybe just maybe if that big end bearing hadn't spun (yet), might not be anything wrong with that rod. But the crankshaft journal and both bearing shells are going to be trashed.
yes dealing with the idiots at most extended warranty companies will turn your hair grey, but a long time ago on a cadillac 472 with a loose rod bearing, I did take the piston out the bottom, got the crank machined that rod resized and put that piston back using two good friends with pocket screwdrivers to compress the rings, not the proper procedure but it worked lol
Eric, I believe you have become the master wiring technician on RUclips, very precise always the same way professional, clean and thorough. Good day Illinois.
Well Mr O, if anyone thinks that fix is not good enough for a car then they should never get on an aircraft again, I’m an avionic engineer for British Airways and these repairs are standard practice on Boeing and Airbus. Stagger all inline splices and we generally use solder splices but use crimped splices if the manual called for it. Great job Mr O 👍
"Why do you want to watch stuff like this?" It's because I admire competence and creativity and I think you set an excellent example for young people to learn how to develop a skill without the need to have themselves or their parents pay several hundred thousand dollars for a useless college degree. Developing a salable skill and becoming a world class expert is a key to being able to deliver economic security for your family.
Well, as a farm truck or truck being used off road I can imagine a branch got wedged up under the bed and ripped off the mounting tabs holding the wire bundle and mashed or wedged the wire up against the frame causing the problem.... It's sure a pleasure to watch someone work who takes pleasure and pride in his work product. No short cuts and fix the problem the right way.
People would watch you solder every wire just as the watch a guy mow and weed trim a yard for over 30 minutes. It’s all therapeutic. Your videos are great, especially the narrations.
This reminds me of back in summer of 75 I had my got my first car back, I bought it in 73, and my parents gave to my sister to drive for 2 years. I was 16 at the time. It was a 65 Ford Wagon. Basic car. Am radio. No electric anything. We put in a fm radio, 8 Track and CB radio all under the dash. Which was metal . I used electrical tape over the wires, then cloth electical tape over that. Se also didn't have zip ties, we used old electrical wire instead. Put in 6 speakers, carpet in back area and as floor mats. Used old carpet samples we got from dumpster. We washed car, waxed, oil change, air filter, lube job. Vacuumed inside. Did windows. We started Saturday morning. By evening everything was done and we cruised back to our old neighborhood about 40 minutes away. Back when cars were easily worked on for basic stuff. Really enjoy your videos sir........
Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane, @trotva. Daddy had a '65 Ford Galaxie sedan. He bought it in '73, my Junior year. I didn't have my regular license yet, only a permit. I mostly drove our '51 Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck. I wish I still had both of those vehicles.
Hats off to an actual troubleshooting mechanic! And your splicing is exactly how I do it - bare shiny copper, solid mechanical connection, 60/40 rosin core lead solder, marine grade heat shrink, black vinyl to secure the split loom, ensure it's not laying on top of your exhaust or hanging down to get snagged on a tree stump, etc. On weather connectors, I put a tiny smear of silicon grease just on the rubber water-keeper-outer gasket thing but definitely nothing on the pins/sockets themselves - just make sure they're not all green.
I'm in awe on the troubleshooting and fix. Just amazing. But sad, too. In the years to come you're going to see a lot of waste as vehicles get junked, because there's no one skilled enough to fix them. We're lucky to have this video. BTW, I saw something kinda like this when a customer said he ran over a shovel that got stuck in the undercarriage.
I normally twist the wires together and wrap them with duct tape. It normally works till I forget I did the job. You, sir, are an excellent troubleshooter.
A few years ago, Big Clive did a video on those "cold" solder connectors. He showed that the wires don't get hot enough to give good adhesion of the solder to the wires. Likely after a few years of mechanical flexing the solder bridge that does form breaks.
I 100% agree with you about the solder/shrink connectors. We had the same issue when I worked at a propane company maintaining the delivery trucks. They were good for maybe 2 years and then the connection/solder would let go. Had to repair a lot of those and i never used them again.
Here in the U.K. It's got to the point that I now point blank refuse to deal with aftermarket warenty company's,don't get me wrong I will speak with them on behalf of my client but the responsibility for settling my invoice remains the responsibility of the vehicles owner ,who then has to deal with the claim themselves Enjoying the repair and trouble shooting great work MrO.
I'm so glad Eric mentioned "not" using dielectric grease in electric connectors; the local Auto Zone manager almost went apoplectic at me for mentioning that you shouldn't use this grease in connectors.
It's always nice to see someone that not only dose an honest job but loves their work that they take the time to do right and then go above and beyond to help someone out even if no one will ever know. Well except for the guy whom video's it and puts it on RUclips. I truly hope it helps inspire a new generation of the same type of people
I made some pretty iffy wiring connections many years on some of my old rigs. I was learning. Those are still going strong 20 years later. I can't imagine how people can get so upset about the "best" way to do something.
Why did I watch this? Well I learned that patience is key for a good wiring job. Love watching an educational video. Learned something new. Well done sir
You always do outstanding work! I watch all the time. I’m 70, recovering from renal cancer, but still try to work on my own stuff. Nice work and I know you will always be successful! Ronnie East Tennessee
I worked as a technician in the aerospace industry for many years and have done my share of wire work. Back in the eighties they started using the solder sleeve splices but the solder was not a cold variety. It required a heat gun hot enough to melt actual solder and the joint it made was very nice. When the consumer grade splices with the cold solder came out I was intrigued and bought some but I was not impressed. The connection is not good (as you pointed out). I searched some of the internet supply houses and found the mil-spec sleeves I remembered but they cost about $4.00 a piece (Yikes!). I have gone back to solder and shrink sleeve.
I'm a solder and heat shrink guy, never had a failure. Before heat shrink's invention (1962) I was a butt connector, solder and electrical tape guy. Never had a problem there, either. And as far as cutting or pulling-til-it-tears for electrical tape, the industrial electricians I've worked around over the years never cut, always pull-til-it-tears. Their explanation was that pulling-til-it-tears will not pigtail loose over time, but will stay stuck tight.
Farm trucks take a beating like no other. It may have been as simple as snagging a stick or a root or backing over a log. Eric,your videos are excellent.
I own the exact same truck, and if I had to guess the bed was removed at one time and those two connectors stay with the bed. When re-installing the bed I'll bet the loom was crushed between the bed and the frame. As always great video.
Hey Eric, well since you invited comments on wiring repairs... First, nice job diagnosing the fault down to the connector. Second, staggered solder joints and heat shrink was definitely the way to fix this. Third, I found it interesting that Ford asks for butt connectors on 14ga and heavier. Those wires are likely carrying more current or serve circuits requiring lower resistance. They'd also want a bit more heat to solder well and maybe that's what Ford is concerned about, but I'd have spliced them the same way you did. Fourth, on the owner's behalf, thank you for taking the time to look for and repair any other compromised wiring. Good job with all of that. I can't offer any theories as to how the loom got squished other than to say somebody was too clumsy to realize what they were doing or too ambivalent to care. Then, at 3:48 you can see what appears to be two twisted pairs in the original wiring. That's usually done for induced or radiated EMF suppression. It's a good practice to follow and clearly Ford put in the extra effort to do it that way for a reason. I'm kind of a stickler for following factory assembly procedure, which I know you are too, so I'm surprised you missed that. At 27:40, you're applying the wire wrap such that the split will face up after the loom is secured. In a case like that I'd try to position it so the slit ends up facing down. That way when water gets in, which we should assume it will, it will also drain back out rather than staying trapped where it can cause trouble. For the same reason I wouldn't have covered the entire wire wrap with plastic tape, leave the slit uncovered and able to drain. I would have covered the ends of the wire wrap with tape just as you did, but I have yet to see a brand of plastic tape actually stay adhered after being subjected to heat, moisture and time. It always seems to unravel starting at the point where the wrap ends. To prevent that from happening, in some cases I'll finish it off with a ziptie just to make sure the end of the tape can't start to unwind. In this case however, at 26:05, where you cut the tape off, I'd have left the end a little longer and stuffed it into the slit in the wire wrap, using the wire wrap as a clamp to mechanically hold the end of the tape in place. I find that if you can keep the terminated tape end from unwinding, the rest of it will stay in place for the duration. That's all.
Ya, your right about the hacks in the business. Even in the city shop I worked in I'd find aftermarket and "other shop" installation and repair work that in some cases I'd clean up that mess. Even in the L.A. area I'd find bare wiring from "cutup" jobs that were starting to discolor and needed to be repaired properly. Then "magically" everything worked like it was supposed to! WOW! What a concept! Thank you for instructing and illustrating how to do the job properly! The dividends paid back to you will be more business from the customer later on. And the word gets spread around. Good one Mr. O!
I used to work for DirecTv as a service tech. We were paid similar to how dealership techs are paid. The most successful techs would swap parts until the problem was fixed, where I would take my time and understand what went wrong and make an accurate diagnosis. Most of the time the problem was from a bad install from the previous installer. Every single time I would end up fixing more than their original problem because I treated every house like my own. I only lasted a few years until I got so sick of fixing garbage work from the previous guy.
The quality of repair you do on cars that are rust buckets at 5 years old amazes me. Ive always been a solder guy, been starting to use thr cold solder but will heed your warning and will only use on non critical items.
Mr O. Something about your videos regarding wiring repair shows up in my feed just at the right time. More repairs from squirrel damage on my F250. All my repairs last time were smaller than 14g. This time I had a 10g and gleamed more info from you for proper repair. Cheers!
I've been watching your harness repairs for years. You've taught me a lot, thanks. My favorite part of your repairs is the harness always comes out looking better than it did from the factory.
The fact that you can track down these wiring problems is great. If you use your method and it works, who cares. Those customers are very fortunate that you don't do like the dealer does, and say "you need a new harness, lady". Some people seem to always one up others and it's irritating. I love the reference to a "professional cotter pin bender". 😁
I'm learning how to read schematics and chase wires thanks to you. I got factory manuals for my cars and that makes the job TONS easier. Now I know where the grounds and connectors are!
I hear what you are saying about the RUclips "internet experts". I had a guy tell me I had the worst video on RUclips. I went and looked at his ONE video, it was him throwing a frisbee to his dog. I had a good belly laugh ! 😅🤣
Holy early access content Batman! There’s a bunch of early access videos available today. Thanks for your hard work! No power here in southern Maine, boring day. good timing
Eric, I own a Freightliner that has a bus communication system which uses SAE J1939 communication protocol. We call it the J1939. I lost 61 days of work and spent $33,000 in parts and mechanics. The first indicator that I had a problem was an initial voltage drop. Then an Alternator went bad. No worries that happens. I replaced it and the Shit Salad of codes went away. Then a few days later, the first system I lost, was a HUEI Pump. Replaced it drove 30 miles then the ECU. Now I am at $12k in parts because I do my own repairs. I was just learning about the J1939 system. Once the computer was flashed and I installed the ECU It cranked and ran, so I buttoned up the whole truck. Went to start it and no start. And of course a shit salad of codes and they pointed to Injectors being bad. So of course six new injector for a Cat engine. Ugh and then Ugh still a no start. You had said something in this video that is true. One problem will give a whole list of error codes. Well codes pointed to bulk head modules and body control modules and rear body control modules, on and on. I knew I had a power drain because I had to keep charging the batteries but I could not find it. I finally had to hire a guy to come look at it. He spent a day out there and told me he had no clue as to what was wrong. I still had to pay him his Daily Rate of $1300. Well I replaced another module took the batteries out of the truck charged them up. Put it all back together and it started. I put it to work 3 hrs in I had a dump truck full of Gravel and The Truck died right in the middle of a very busy Intersection. A fine Gentleman with an f350 pulled me into a parking lot. My voltage was way down and the alternator was putting out nuten and I once again had to replace an alternator. Charged the batteries up they took a charge all green and ready to go. And Yet a no start. I had to get the truck out of the parking lot, so I towed it to the job site and parked it on the street. It was dead I paid another mechanic $1000 and he apologized scratched his head and of course gave me his bill, even though he touted his self confidence in finding the problem. This whole time I was in the repair manual up late at night and working dawn till dusk trying to figure this problem out. On the job I kept charging the batteries with a generator and had green lights so I knew I had plenty of amps. I knew I had a battery drain, so I put an amp clamp on the battery cable and went to the fuse panel and started to pull fuses. I had a drain of 7.29 amps. When all of the fuses were out I still had a drain. So I tore out the fuse panel. totally disconnected and the wire still had a drain. I then thought that the wire had a ground, so I tore out the cables and they were fine. Then I thought it was the cable to the Alternator and tore it out of the truck and still a drain. I finally said well it might be the starter. took out the starter and wire and nope, I had no where to hang the meter so I hung it on the negative wire and I had 6.1 amps of current flowing on the negative and the battery was not even connected at this point to the truck, other than the negative cable. I had an internal short in one of the three batteries that caused me so much trouble. I don't think the fault detection system was a help at all. So I just wanted to point out the importance of looking for the problem and look through all the keys not all of the codes and faults because the solution finally ended up being looking at the big picture not just flashing a computer. Thanks for teaching your guidance helped me and others. While watching this I was reminded of how difficult new comm systems are to diagnose. Not many people know how to chase wires. but you gave a little insight on this one to look elsewhere on these new systems because you can chase many dead ends.
4 years of college, graduating as a master ASE cert mechanic. The Instructors regularly play your videos in their presentations for all the students. I, now happily have my own mobile auto repair business, and continue to watch all of your videos in my free time. My favorites are the electrical diagnostics. Amazing how much you know, how well you explain, and how great your videos are. Your nickname at my college is “South Main Wizard”. LOL. Anyway, everyone loves what you do, keep it up! We appreciate it.
Sad they're not compensating as appropriate...
I wish dealerships in Michigan also used Erics video for training!!!
I'm amazed that there are colleges where you can receive a degree for learning how to use your hands, and your head for something that will guarantee the graduate a really good income. I'm 77, and all I know I've learned by doing.
I use SMA channel videos when I am chasing electrical gremlins... Thankfully he has worked on the same cars I have owned
Yup. Eric O demonstrates that diagnostics are paramount to making a proper repair instead of throwing parts at the issue. Congrats on your certificate.
26 yrs as a HVAC mechanic, you couldn't have said it better about the real mechanics seem to get squat compared to hack parts changers. It's great to see there are still true mechanics who actually care about doing the right thing and are proud
SMA and owner has been like that for decades. Not say you are old Eric O 😂😂
I've had that experience in HVAC too. I'm a homeowner and I have had two instances where control boards got flaky. I called HVAC guys they just wanted to shoot a new control board at it. I figured I have nothing to lose, in both cases I pulled the control board and the problem inside was just a cold solder joint in one case, and a loose connector in the other. Fixed for $0
Yep, the profit margin on a parts cannon barrage is higher than the hourly shop rate for diag.
Damn it Eric O. I watched both videos to see you fix the CHMSL and nothing on video but talk😂😂😂😂
I’m definitely a real crimp and seal connection guy! Just not that fake harbor freight crap. Thanks for another great series. Your work ethic is inspiring
I'm doing some work for a customer and she asked me to look at the lock on the garage door, as it had come loose and partially out, she managed to wriggle it back in again, but couldn't trust it. She had called the door manufacturers, who quoted £150 to come and look at the repair. I found that it was a Euro type cylinder lock and the M5 securing screw had vanished, put a new screw in with Loctite, job done. I told her I would add 50 pence onto the rest of the bill. Some manufacturers are real rip off merchants.
Some people see my South Main Auto t-shirt here in Kentucky and ask why I'm wearing that NY stuff. I tell them, unless you watch this guy, you'll never understand. Thanks, Eric!!❤❤❤
😂frfr
Hi neighbor, I'm between Campbellsville and Bowling Green. 👍
I got my South Main shirt last week- it's really special! It came with a full size Beauty and the Beast on the back!! LMAO!
Same here in Saint Louis. Nobody knows how to pronounce Avoca the right way. 😆
Tell them unless there's someone there in Kentucky that can do the same things, you'll keep wearing it!
😂
I’m a professional cotter key bender and I think you did a great job. Next time we have a cotter key bender convention, we would like to have you as a guest speaker
Do you kick off the convention with "Welcome back cotter!"?
Cotter? I don't even know her.
Lol....
=
@@keiganthetennessean1796 Even better
Is that convention where the mortar forkers and cork soakers convene?
A man who cares about his work. You have the best channel.
I love how Eric brings up how the internet is full of professionals:
”You’re doing this wrong! I’m a professional solder, welder, concrete person, home builder, cotter pin bender…” 😄
I am a professional RUclips commenter and I take issue with you comment. It is very degenerate yo my profession.
I know, right? If I've said it once I've said it a hundred times, Those that think they know everything really irritate those of us that actually do.
Every single time I find that I'm half right always
Professional cotter pin bender😂😂😂
@@MaxDoubt2If I've told you once I've told you ten million times STOP exagerating.
Let's all take a moment to appreciate the TAPE skills of this guy! Cutting, not stretching to break, not using teeth, taping ends of loom, covering loom, strain points of all the sections of harness, and not wrinkled and kinked or mixed with dirt. Quality AND Appearance are hallmarks of a professional. Good job!
I think Eric has spent plenty of money on his teeth. I doubt he is going to use them to cut tape.
😁🤣@@kenmohler4081
This is why visual inspections are key. When I get electrical complaint concerns, more than half the time I can find the issue glaring at me through a hack job repair that sticks out like a sore thumb. You can bet the farm on the quality of the repair, by how the repair looks. If it's obvious someone had the harness splayed open, their repair is usually the problem after the fact.
And using the real 33+, in this case about $20.00 worth.
He is like a great chef , presentation is everything 🤗
"wire color is right, as long as your wire color is green"😂 gotta love service connectors.
good job
Ford sitting back and chuckling knowing they chose the green color to make it harder to quickly find the green puss in the future.
Green wire makes the green crusties so much more difficult to be seen.
Excellent job!
@@skipcrane643
It was made on St Patrick's Day.
"Lunch is ready". Bless you, Mrs. O. You guys are a great team.
I`m a solder and heat shrink guy, have been for 50 years when I started working on my own junk @16. Nice fix, well done Eric.
nothing wrong with butt connectors if you have a proper heavy duty crimping tool like Klein tool crimper at home depot
That's how I do all my repairs can't beat solder in my opinion. I've seen it hold up even without heat shrink.
@@Yophillips3272Solder does crack often.
I’m not die hard one only mode of repair - everything has its own pros and cons. Got to goes with the situation.
@commenter5469 If you do use solder it's better to use the lead kind, lead free is too brittle imo.
@@Yophillips3272 I never use lead less. Thankfully 60/40 is everywhere in my state
Knowing farmers as I do, good ole boy backed over a 4x4 barbed wire fence post that jammed between the frame and spare.
Yep. As an old Iowa farm kid, I concur that this makes the most sense (I may or may not have done exactly this myself... Don't tell my dad!). 😊
I don't know. That loom looks cooked. Grass fire caused by the exhaust maybe?
Because Farm truck!
Dairy farm …..shit happens…especially at the burn pile where the farmhand unloaded the truck…backed in too far….Yadda, yadda, yadda…..then denies any knowledge of anything……
OR he carelessly tossed a tow strap around the bumper/hitch assembly, and caught the wire in it and pulled and smashed it under the strap.
Hi Eric,
The Ford heatshrink is actually Raychem ES2000. Mouser and DigiKey both carry it. I'm sure other places have it too.
Common sizes are ES-1 to ES-4.
No wonder he likes it, it IS the good stuff!
You, my friend, just sold a whole bunch of that stuff!
Great info, thanks
@@thewayidoit8895❤👍nothing wrong with that!😊
I remember working with Raychem back in the 1980s when I was working in aerospace. Good stuff.
Another 37 minutes of me not watching depressing, anger filled RUclips content.(Politics and world news).
Soldering while on your back is not a job I like doing.
Thanks for your meticulous diagnosis and professional repairs.
Carry on Carrying on, Mr. O
Especially right now.....
Great point! A great guy just making something work, like guys should do.
Yeah I hear you. Politics 🤬🤬
You win the You Tube comment of the day award for having the only political comment that is not politically devisive and that everyone should be able to agree with! Hats off to you!
The world is a stage
Another nice diag n repair. I am amazed how you work. Thanks
Another job well done. 👍🏼
When I worked at an RV dealership, we had a Winnebago that had an electrical short.
Troubleshooting the dash, Winnebago had no electrical diagrams of the dashboard wiring and neither did Chevrolet who supplied the chassis for Winnebago to build on.
On top of that, when the mechanic pulled the dashboard, all the wires were purple in color!
A fun time was held by all!!!
😂😂😂
Purple is my 4 year old granddaughter's favorite color.
@@fascistpedant758Making every wire on a machine the same color sounds like the kind of idea I'd expect from a 4yr old engineer.
Must be who's building Chinese motorbikes cuz I've personally worked on those with all black wires
Bean counter engineering!
Short or loose connection?
Blowing fuses or nothing? 🤔
Freightliner, Mack, Peterbuilt, Kenworth, they do the same thing on some of their models. They use the number system, which doesn’t help if there is no diagram… I feel your pain. It’s cheaper to run all one color wire and print a number code to follow the harnessing easier that way. JLG , Skyjack, and Genie, and others alike do that too.
"Because who's gonna watch that? And uh, who would wanna watch that?" Eric, have you not met us??? 😂😂
Lol, we are a special kind viewer arnt we.
15 years as a Ford tech in the dealerships and I made wire repairs the same way as you just did. Never had issues. Good work sir!
How's the job like as a Ford Tech? I just applied with no experience and they're considering hiring me. Trying to learn wiring diagrams right now, even though they won't start me off with huge stuff like that.
Solder and heat shrink has always been my favorite splicing technique. I have never had a failure, but then I haven't worked on nearly as many vehicles.
I actuallt left the dealers years ago to go work in the Ford Sterling Axle Plant but it's like any other job, it's all about what you make it. Good luck to you I hope you do well! Lord knows we need some good techs these days! @@andrewb229
@@machintelligenceAbsolutely!
I tried butt connectors on construction work truck trailer wiring WAY back at the beginning of my career, and learned REAL fast that those things are evil, and I went to soldering and using shrink-wrap with the glue/sealer inside it, and NEVER had any issues again.
I am not a RUclips content creator. Merely a content consumer. However, in my 51 years of living, working 31 years in an auto production plant (the one that built that truck actually) & serving in two military branches (still serving as an aircraft mechanic), I’ve learned to ignore the morons who surround us all. Those who claim to know the most, usually don’t. Stop feeding the trolls Eric. Another great video by the way!
I think he is just poking the trolls. 😅
I agree wholeheartedly at the same time poking the trolls encourages them and us to comment, driving up "comment engagement", which in turn drives the video up in the "for you page" algorithm...much like spelling something wrong in the thumbnail titles...so, I guess this is a case that I use to tell myself, "don't hate the player, hate the game"
I’ve been doing general construction/carpentry (residential) for about 20 years now and it’s always hilarious seeing the “you’re doing it wrong” comments from non construction workers. The internet has been a great thing, but has created far too many Google professionals. Love watching you work and figure stuff out. I’ve only recently started getting into mechanic work (for my personal vehicles), but love to watch you pros 🤙
BTW the last deck you built....
It's all wrong 😐
@@SouthMainAutodon’t even, just…don’t even
Love how he said he won’t show all the repairs (he didn’t) but showed a lot as he talked to the people. I loved that during certain topics he stopped and just laid back and folded his hands while talking. Felt like philosophy time with Eric O. That’s why we watch!
felt like going to confessional LOL
Eric is giving his arms a break. It's hard work holding them up like that!
I can't believe I spent 30 minutes watching a wiring repair, but with Eric O there is always a tidbit every few minutes that can be helpful if I ever have to do it myself, so I keep watching.
Eric should record all his videos laying under F-250. Very calm, serene and ASMResq.
Eric’s methods are top of the class. I used to train new employees at Boeing in that method on Ch-47s and V22 Osprey’s. We had a position on the line dedicated solely for autocheckout called DITMCO. We would have the newbies hook up every connector on the aircraft to a computer system programmed for each aircraft and run checks on every wire. part one was point-to-point wiring , and part two was for every circuit breaker and all relays to be energized. I even helped to design a program, an active circuit diagram which showed all the systems in animation for troubleshooting, loved it all
In comparison to Eric O....im definitely a parts changer. You are the real deal brother. Thank you 🙏
42 years in the telephone business taught me a thing or two. There are very few people I would trust to do a good job repairing something of mine, but if I lived near you, you would be someone I would trust to do the job correctly. Even less people who actually understand what dielectric grease actually does, or doesn't do. My hat is off to you!
My words exactly, John Henry! I believe like Eric O., do it once, right!
It's amazing that with a little bit of visual inspection that you can find this problem so quick and other shops just either throw their hands up or replace hi dollar items that don't need to be replaced and still don't fix the problem, Eric you rock. A mechanic I would trust with any of my vehicles.
Soldering up multiple wires like this is a Zen thing. Methodical, cutting, soldering, waiting for the cool down period/gathering your thoughts, and then continuing until all the wires are done. And then the taping. Finally, the arrangement with the zip ties. There, that's better. I'm thinking Bob Ross..
As it happens, I am, in fact, a professional cotter bin bender, and I can assure you I've never yet seen you bend one wrong. Keep up the high-quality cotter bin bending.
He said solder. He said soLder. Eric said solder. ❤❤❤
Always been a top channel. 👍
Ssssolllderrrrr… 😁😁😁
Laying on your back to repair this hits home. Only thing missing is the gravel 😉
And goathead stickers. Lol.
And rain.
😂😂😂 You would think after all these years you have been doing this the comment section would figure it out. You do great work sir!
there are people in this world that would find something wrong with anything. Best to just ignore them or bait them, I enjoy when Eric baits them. lol
Mr O, Your repairs are always A1 and you care about the customer.
Most places think money first.
Keep up the great work. Almost feels like I am I a classroom, but wanting to learn as much as possible
I am a professional wire fixer, you are doing it the absolute best way !!!
When I wake up and see my messages, I can tell Eric O. will be working under a farm truck looking at multiple green wires and watching out for falling heaps of excrement! Life of a flat rate wrench in the farm/rust belt? You sir broke the internet!
As a warranty manager for a large RV dealership for five years, yes, I can attest that those extended warranties are not worth the paper that they are printed on.
The dealership constantly changed companies because of issues but mostly because they went out of business. Every claim that I put forth on behalf of the customers was challenged and the dealership would eat the cost of repairs just to keep customers happy and coming back to buy new RVs.
Eventually, the cost of doing business was more than the money made on selling the warranties plus the fact that sales people wouldn't sell them anymore because of the hassle and the dealership stopped selling extended warranties.
I’ve never purchased an extended service plan (which is what they are actually) unless it’s from the vehicle manufacturer. So called third party service plans are notoriously expensive and generally getting a claim paid is extremely difficult and often declined. Dealers like to sell the third party service plans because they make the most money on them. The manufacturers service plans are often a set amount paid to the dealer but we all have had our dance with the “finance department”.
A good demonstration of patience and matching wires one at a time.
Great job. I wish every service person took as much pride in their work.
Usually he says what the model is of the tools he is using, had to look them up as he didn’t this video. I believe the soldering iron is the PORTASOL Pro Piezo 75-Watt Heat Tool and the torch is the Power Probe Electronic Micro Torch Kit.
I once did an engine in a used Caravan. The customer only had the vehicle about a month but the used car dealership up sold a warranty for power train only. One would think it should have been easy. As Eric says at the beginning, the warranty company was trying to avoid paying. It had a rod knocking. Typically should be easy diagnosis. Run vehicle, rev up listen etc . Pulled ignition wire to suspect cylinder, noise lessened greatly. This warranty company didn’t like that method of diagnosis. Wanted me to tear down engine ( pull pan) and provide more proof. Then this company would only pay for affected cylinder. Thought i could do it in the vehicle. Couldn’t believe the guy on the other end, he thought piston come out bottom. After explaining procedure he approves claim but customer was on hook for gaskets , fluids and labour to get to that one rod. I refused the work but then we came to agreement. They sent me a Chrysler Reman engine , customer had to pay all labour and incidentals. By my choice,I never did work for that company again.
It impossible to turn the journals on a crankshaft while the engine is IN the vehicle.... WTF was that insurance adjuster thinking??
SURE, a guy CAN easily get a piston and rod out of the engine with it still in the chassis by removing a head, BUT, if the engine is knocking, the crank WILL need to be reworked.
I think these guys on the other end of the phone think cars can be fixed from a book. It was one of those Mitsubishi engines. Trying to explain to the guy about taking head off, dealing with the poor timing gear and guide set up , removing transmission to unbolt crank , and on and on. Then he wanted to put a used rod in. Explaining the damaged journal and resizing the rod to the new bearing. I lost my shit with this guy.
He thought the piston could come out the bottom? With the crankshaft in the way? Wow. What was he thinking, that this was like a chainsaw engine? Or other small 2 stroke, where there is no cylinder head, and the only way piston comes out is from the bottom or like a Lycoming aircraft engine, you pull the whole cylinder jug off. Which yes gives you access to the piston still hopefully attached to it's rod, but then how you going to unbolt that big end cap. Clueless insurance adjusters. I would have lost my shit when the words 'used rod' came out of his mouth. Funny part of that was, why pay for a used rod, when, maybe just maybe if that big end bearing hadn't spun (yet), might not be anything wrong with that rod. But the crankshaft journal and both bearing shells are going to be trashed.
yes dealing with the idiots at most extended warranty companies will turn your hair grey, but a long time ago on a cadillac 472 with a loose rod bearing, I did take the piston out the bottom, got the crank machined that rod resized and put that piston back using two good friends with pocket screwdrivers to compress the rings, not the proper procedure but it worked lol
Here I am having a rough morning and a new SMA pops up to brighten my day, thanks Mr O for the knowledge
I have 63 Years and 2 months and 9 days experience as a guy, the sun rose today and I am good, so are you. thanks for the video.
But you still don’t understand women.
ItTOOK A LONG TIME TO ,FIGURE OUT YPUR GENDER,,?😮
I’ve 77 years and change as a guy, and I don’t understand women.
@@kenmohler4081Does anyone?
"think of a man, and take away reason and accountability "
Hypergamy never sleeps.
Eric, I believe you have become the master wiring technician on RUclips, very precise always the same way professional, clean and thorough. Good day Illinois.
I've been fixing things for 30 plus years and I've learned that doing something different doesn't always mean you're doing it wrong.
Love the smell of solder,in the morning
Well Mr O, if anyone thinks that fix is not good enough for a car then they should never get on an aircraft again, I’m an avionic engineer for British Airways and these repairs are standard practice on Boeing and Airbus. Stagger all inline splices and we generally use solder splices but use crimped splices if the manual called for it.
Great job Mr O 👍
patience, experience, do it right that no one will ever see but you took pride in the repair wonderful to watch
"Why do you want to watch stuff like this?" It's because I admire competence and creativity and I think you set an excellent example for young people to learn how to develop a skill without the need to have themselves or their parents pay several hundred thousand dollars for a useless college degree. Developing a salable skill and becoming a world class expert is a key to being able to deliver economic security for your family.
Well, as a farm truck or truck being used off road I can imagine a branch got wedged up under the bed and ripped off the mounting tabs holding the wire bundle and mashed or wedged the wire up against the frame causing the problem.... It's sure a pleasure to watch someone work who takes pleasure and pride in his work product. No short cuts and fix the problem the right way.
People would watch you solder every wire just as the watch a guy mow and weed trim a yard for over 30 minutes. It’s all therapeutic. Your videos are great, especially the narrations.
This reminds me of back in summer of 75 I had my got my first car back, I bought it in 73, and my parents gave to my sister to drive for 2 years. I was 16 at the time. It was a 65 Ford Wagon. Basic car. Am radio. No electric anything. We put in a fm radio, 8 Track and CB radio all under the dash. Which was metal . I used electrical tape over the wires, then cloth electical tape over that. Se also didn't have zip ties, we used old electrical wire instead. Put in 6 speakers, carpet in back area and as floor mats. Used old carpet samples we got from dumpster. We washed car, waxed, oil change, air filter, lube job. Vacuumed inside. Did windows. We started Saturday morning. By evening everything was done and we cruised back to our old neighborhood about 40 minutes away. Back when cars were easily worked on for basic stuff. Really enjoy your videos sir........
Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane, @trotva. Daddy had a '65 Ford Galaxie sedan. He bought it in '73, my Junior year. I didn't have my regular license yet, only a permit. I mostly drove our '51 Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck. I wish I still had both of those vehicles.
Hats off to an actual troubleshooting mechanic! And your splicing is exactly how I do it - bare shiny copper, solid mechanical connection, 60/40 rosin core lead solder, marine grade heat shrink, black vinyl to secure the split loom, ensure it's not laying on top of your exhaust or hanging down to get snagged on a tree stump, etc. On weather connectors, I put a tiny smear of silicon grease just on the rubber water-keeper-outer gasket thing but definitely nothing on the pins/sockets themselves - just make sure they're not all green.
I'm in awe on the troubleshooting and fix. Just amazing. But sad, too. In the years to come you're going to see a lot of waste as vehicles get junked, because there's no one skilled enough to fix them. We're lucky to have this video. BTW, I saw something kinda like this when a customer said he ran over a shovel that got stuck in the undercarriage.
There is nothing better than spending quality time with Eric. One wire at a time!
Really enjoyed the monologue today.
SMA and coffee ❤
I normally twist the wires together and wrap them with duct tape. It normally works till I forget I did the job. You, sir, are an excellent troubleshooter.
When I was young my grandfather told me "Son, there're only 3 things you need to fix anything in this world. Duct tape, JB weld, and flowers."
A few years ago, Big Clive did a video on those "cold" solder connectors. He showed that the wires don't get hot enough to give good adhesion of the solder to the wires. Likely after a few years of mechanical flexing the solder bridge that does form breaks.
Nicely done. The Patience. The RUclips, The Mechanic.
Eric, what's great about your work is that you repair items like they were on your own vehicle. GREAT
I 100% agree with you about the solder/shrink connectors. We had the same issue when I worked at a propane company maintaining the delivery trucks. They were good for maybe 2 years and then the connection/solder would let go.
Had to repair a lot of those and i never used them again.
Nothing better than a laid-back episode with Mr’O.
Here in the U.K. It's got to the point that I now point blank refuse to deal with aftermarket warenty company's,don't get me wrong I will speak with them on behalf of my client but the responsibility for settling my invoice remains the responsibility of the vehicles owner ,who then has to deal with the claim themselves
Enjoying the repair and trouble shooting great work MrO.
Good diagnostic it’s hard to find a shop that will do anything besides switch parts so it’s a great honor for you to watch you work
I'm so glad Eric mentioned "not" using dielectric grease in electric connectors; the local Auto Zone manager almost went apoplectic at me for mentioning that you shouldn't use this grease in connectors.
It's always nice to see someone that not only dose an honest job but loves their work that they take the time to do right and then go above and beyond to help someone out even if no one will ever know. Well except for the guy whom video's it and puts it on RUclips.
I truly hope it helps inspire a new generation of the same type of people
I made some pretty iffy wiring connections many years on some of my old rigs. I was learning. Those are still going strong 20 years later. I can't imagine how people can get so upset about the "best" way to do something.
Thanks for sharing. One vote for solder and heat shrink from the rust belt.
I agree. One more vote for solder and heat shrink from the high Sierra snow country.
Your a good man.
Would trust you with my family's vehicles any day. Keep it going.
Why did I watch this? Well I learned that patience is key for a good wiring job. Love watching an educational video. Learned something new. Well done sir
You always do outstanding work! I watch all the time. I’m 70, recovering from renal cancer, but still try to work on my own stuff. Nice work and I know you will always be successful! Ronnie East Tennessee
@cuttnhorse2013, I wish you a healthy and a successful recovery, man.
@@andrewlisenby9693 thank you! Keeping a good outlook, and I know when the man takes me, all will be fine. Thank you again, Ronnie
My prayers for a speedy recovery.
Honest, intelligent and thorough what every mechanic should be. Thanks for the inspiration Eric.
I worked as a technician in the aerospace industry for many years and have done my share of wire work. Back in the eighties they started using the solder sleeve splices but the solder was not a cold variety. It required a heat gun hot enough to melt actual solder and the joint it made was very nice. When the consumer grade splices with the cold solder came out I was intrigued and bought some but I was not impressed. The connection is not good (as you pointed out). I searched some of the internet supply houses and found the mil-spec sleeves I remembered but they cost about $4.00 a piece (Yikes!). I have gone back to solder and shrink sleeve.
I'm a solder and heat shrink guy, never had a failure. Before heat shrink's invention (1962) I was a butt connector, solder and electrical tape guy. Never had a problem there, either. And as far as cutting or pulling-til-it-tears for electrical tape, the industrial electricians I've worked around over the years never cut, always pull-til-it-tears. Their explanation was that pulling-til-it-tears will not pigtail loose over time, but will stay stuck tight.
Farm trucks take a beating like no other. It may have been as simple as snagging a stick or a root or backing over a log. Eric,your videos are excellent.
Absolutely beautimas workmanship. You are what a perfect auto technician looks like.
When I was working, I was certified to the military spec for high reliability soldering. You’re doing fine Eric . 😎
The most relaxing SMA video I’ve ever watched.
I own the exact same truck, and if I had to guess the bed was removed at one time and those two connectors stay with the bed. When re-installing the bed I'll bet the loom was crushed between the bed and the frame. As always great video.
Yes, that’s the best I’ve heard yet !
Hey Eric, well since you invited comments on wiring repairs... First, nice job diagnosing the fault down to the connector. Second, staggered solder joints and heat shrink was definitely the way to fix this. Third, I found it interesting that Ford asks for butt connectors on 14ga and heavier. Those wires are likely carrying more current or serve circuits requiring lower resistance. They'd also want a bit more heat to solder well and maybe that's what Ford is concerned about, but I'd have spliced them the same way you did. Fourth, on the owner's behalf, thank you for taking the time to look for and repair any other compromised wiring. Good job with all of that.
I can't offer any theories as to how the loom got squished other than to say somebody was too clumsy to realize what they were doing or too ambivalent to care.
Then, at 3:48 you can see what appears to be two twisted pairs in the original wiring. That's usually done for induced or radiated EMF suppression. It's a good practice to follow and clearly Ford put in the extra effort to do it that way for a reason. I'm kind of a stickler for following factory assembly procedure, which I know you are too, so I'm surprised you missed that.
At 27:40, you're applying the wire wrap such that the split will face up after the loom is secured. In a case like that I'd try to position it so the slit ends up facing down. That way when water gets in, which we should assume it will, it will also drain back out rather than staying trapped where it can cause trouble. For the same reason I wouldn't have covered the entire wire wrap with plastic tape, leave the slit uncovered and able to drain.
I would have covered the ends of the wire wrap with tape just as you did, but I have yet to see a brand of plastic tape actually stay adhered after being subjected to heat, moisture and time. It always seems to unravel starting at the point where the wrap ends. To prevent that from happening, in some cases I'll finish it off with a ziptie just to make sure the end of the tape can't start to unwind. In this case however, at 26:05, where you cut the tape off, I'd have left the end a little longer and stuffed it into the slit in the wire wrap, using the wire wrap as a clamp to mechanically hold the end of the tape in place. I find that if you can keep the terminated tape end from unwinding, the rest of it will stay in place for the duration.
That's all.
Ya, your right about the hacks in the business. Even in the city shop I worked in I'd find aftermarket and "other shop" installation and repair work that in some cases I'd clean up that mess. Even in the L.A. area I'd find bare wiring from "cutup" jobs that were starting to discolor and needed to be repaired properly. Then "magically" everything worked like it was supposed to! WOW! What a concept!
Thank you for instructing and illustrating how to do the job properly! The dividends paid back to you will be more business from the customer later on. And the word gets spread around.
Good one Mr. O!
I used to work for DirecTv as a service tech. We were paid similar to how dealership techs are paid. The most successful techs would swap parts until the problem was fixed, where I would take my time and understand what went wrong and make an accurate diagnosis. Most of the time the problem was from a bad install from the previous installer. Every single time I would end up fixing more than their original problem because I treated every house like my own. I only lasted a few years until I got so sick of fixing garbage work from the previous guy.
You did the right thing while you worked. That will mean a lot when your life review comes up.
The quality of repair you do on cars that are rust buckets at 5 years old amazes me. Ive always been a solder guy, been starting to use thr cold solder but will heed your warning and will only use on non critical items.
just use it on nothing at all
@@andries4561 my stuff so if its an issue it's my issue
Wow! Your diagnostics skills are great. The folks in your community are blessed that they have you and a trust worthy garage.
Your channel is one of my must-watch list. Thanks Eric. I grab a coffee, sit back and enjoy watching you work. I should get paid. Maybe not.
Mr O. Something about your videos regarding wiring repair shows up in my feed just at the right time. More repairs from squirrel damage on my F250. All my repairs last time were smaller than 14g. This time I had a 10g and gleamed more info from you for proper repair. Cheers!
I've been watching your harness repairs for years. You've taught me a lot, thanks. My favorite part of your repairs is the harness always comes out looking better than it did from the factory.
this Baldwin agrees
That GULF hat is AWESOME! A blast from the past. Thanks for the video!
Last i recall, he has an amazon list with some of those classic hats for sale still - they are pre-roughed up for ya. :P
The fact that you can track down these wiring problems is great. If you use your method and it works, who cares. Those customers are very fortunate that you don't do like the dealer does, and say "you need a new harness, lady". Some people seem to always one up others and it's irritating. I love the reference to a "professional cotter pin bender". 😁
I'm learning how to read schematics and chase wires thanks to you. I got factory manuals for my cars and that makes the job TONS easier. Now I know where the grounds and connectors are!
I hear what you are saying about the RUclips "internet experts". I had a guy tell me I had the worst video on RUclips. I went and looked at his ONE video, it was him throwing a frisbee to his dog. I had a good belly laugh ! 😅🤣
So nice to see a professional job done with pride! American made! Excellent job and great entertainment to boot! Well done as usual Eric!
Definitely worth the $2.99 to watch early. Thank you sir!
My thoughts exactly
Sucker...
lmao...
Earlier than what?
@@vg3430 Regular videos. Some channels I support will put videos out a couple of days ahead of normal release time.
Eric,..you are doing it exactly right... always solder and you never can go wrong...
It’s always nice,towatch Mr O do a mundane repair,while dispersing worldly thoughts on many subjects!!
Holy early access content Batman! There’s a bunch of early access videos available today. Thanks for your hard work! No power here in southern Maine, boring day. good timing
Mrs. O is slacking! No banter or coffee! 😂😂
Well he was lying down on the job the whole time.😂
Well, she did cook his lunch and let him know when it was ready. Just sayin'. 🙂
Wiring looks awesome. I echo your comments about being told when I do things wrong by people and then those some people have no example videos.
I tend to suck on electrical repairs you make it look easy great job.
Eric, I own a Freightliner that has a bus communication system which uses SAE J1939 communication protocol. We call it the J1939. I lost 61 days of work and spent $33,000 in parts and mechanics. The first indicator that I had a problem was an initial voltage drop. Then an Alternator went bad. No worries that happens. I replaced it and the Shit Salad of codes went away. Then a few days later, the first system I lost, was a HUEI Pump. Replaced it drove 30 miles then the ECU. Now I am at $12k in parts because I do my own repairs. I was just learning about the J1939 system. Once the computer was flashed and I installed the ECU It cranked and ran, so I buttoned up the whole truck. Went to start it and no start. And of course a shit salad of codes and they pointed to Injectors being bad. So of course six new injector for a Cat engine. Ugh and then Ugh still a no start. You had said something in this video that is true. One problem will give a whole list of error codes. Well codes pointed to bulk head modules and body control modules and rear body control modules, on and on. I knew I had a power drain because I had to keep charging the batteries but I could not find it. I finally had to hire a guy to come look at it. He spent a day out there and told me he had no clue as to what was wrong. I still had to pay him his Daily Rate of $1300. Well I replaced another module took the batteries out of the truck charged them up. Put it all back together and it started. I put it to work 3 hrs in I had a dump truck full of Gravel and The Truck died right in the middle of a very busy Intersection. A fine Gentleman with an f350 pulled me into a parking lot. My voltage was way down and the alternator was putting out nuten and I once again had to replace an alternator. Charged the batteries up they took a charge all green and ready to go. And Yet a no start. I had to get the truck out of the parking lot, so I towed it to the job site and parked it on the street. It was dead I paid another mechanic $1000 and he apologized scratched his head and of course gave me his bill, even though he touted his self confidence in finding the problem. This whole time I was in the repair manual up late at night and working dawn till dusk trying to figure this problem out. On the job I kept charging the batteries with a generator and had green lights so I knew I had plenty of amps. I knew I had a battery drain, so I put an amp clamp on the battery cable and went to the fuse panel and started to pull fuses. I had a drain of 7.29 amps. When all of the fuses were out I still had a drain. So I tore out the fuse panel. totally disconnected and the wire still had a drain. I then thought that the wire had a ground, so I tore out the cables and they were fine. Then I thought it was the cable to the Alternator and tore it out of the truck and still a drain. I finally said well it might be the starter. took out the starter and wire and nope, I had no where to hang the meter so I hung it on the negative wire and I had 6.1 amps of current flowing on the negative and the battery was not even connected at this point to the truck, other than the negative cable. I had an internal short in one of the three batteries that caused me so much trouble. I don't think the fault detection system was a help at all. So I just wanted to point out the importance of looking for the problem and look through all the keys not all of the codes and faults because the solution finally ended up being looking at the big picture not just flashing a computer. Thanks for teaching your guidance helped me and others. While watching this I was reminded of how difficult new comm systems are to diagnose. Not many people know how to chase wires. but you gave a little insight on this one to look elsewhere on these new systems because you can chase many dead ends.