SCREAMING Bearings! (Full Teardown) Ford F-150 4.6 5.4
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Check out our Ray's Auto Clinic Merch HERE: EVERYTHING is a HAMMER! www.RainmanRay...
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member here on RUclips or visit Patreon at / rainmanraysrepairs to donate and support the channel!
Visit our Second Channel on RUclips, RainmanRay Off Duty / rainmanrayoutoftheshop
Take a look at my Affiliated Brands and Product Recommendations below:
Interested in Banks Power Performance Products? Visit Banks Power HERE!
**** www.bankspower... *********
Take care of your car or truck with premium synthetic Amsoil Engine Oil and fluids!
Do you perform your own maintenance? Get premium synthetic Amsoil products HERE! ************************ www.amsoil.com... *************************
When it comes to Synthetics, Amsoil is the best in the business! Amsoil backs up their claim with numerous performance testing methods and results can be found at www.amsoil.com...
Visit www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com To have your vehicle serviced at Ray's Auto Clinic in Bradenton Florida where we proudly use Amsoil premium synthetics and other top tier automotive products!
Tool Picks! Zero Drive magnetic Drive Ratchet: Visit www.getzerodri...
Found on Amazon:
Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 amzn.to/3OJTRp2
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
#mechanic #repair #autorepair #restoration #wifeunit #brakecleanmafia
ABOUT OUR CHANNEL
Our channel is about general automotive repair and maintenance . We cover a large variety of automotive services and repairs in a privately owned independent shop.
Check out our channel here:
/ @rainmanraysrepairs
and the Off Duty Channel here: RainmanRay Off Duty / rainmanrayoutoftheshop
Don’t forget to subscribe and share!
Dave’s rapid response to your request is phenomenal. What an assistant! You are blessed to have Dave.
What a difference a Dave makes. I'm also a Dave
Sounds exactly something Dave would say.....
I've been laughing and giggling since the noise started. HOLY COW!!!!
I have heard louder - Back in the 90's when we had the 84 dodge caravan, a bearing went bad and you want to hear loud while on the Hiway... us 94 from MPLS mn headed west back to north dakota... heck that was louder than this! the Wheel bearing went! I think this was in 1995! we no longer have the van! Thank god for that!
OOF that one is a growler! I think what happened was someone replaced the pinion seal and smoked the nut on without thinking about the preload on the pinion bearings.
Oh hell yeah! As The official bearing aficionado of this channel, I wholeheartedly endorse bearing videos!
Grin and Bearing it
I saw what you did.
3 minutes in, and my jaw is on the floor....I've never heard a bearing that loud in my life, and I live in St. Louis, where car maintenance is fix it when something falls off.
Yup. Sounds like the bearings are made of sandpaper. 😅
im wondering if somehow the noise rapidly got to that point, of if the owner is REALLY good at drowning out expensive sounds haha
270 junkyard specials
Ray bravely drove it further down the road than I would have dared.
Hey not everyone, my vehicles are very well cared for here in Arnold
That familiar bearing helicopter sound.
1) it's a crush sleeve, not crush washer.
2) That is not a limited slip differential, that is an open diff. Those "clutch packs" are actually shims.
3) Yeah, someone over tightened the pinion. The races are probably not smooth anymore. I had one that actually cracked the race. Snap on makes special punches to get at the races - highly recommended (under the category - the right tool saves you lots of time).
4) I've never seen diff fluid look so much like water and have soap bubbles in it... That's supposed to be 90 weight??? How hot is it in Florida?
New bearings should be set for 25 in-lbs drag torque. That includes the side bearings.... There is no way a diff should have fallen out like it did. Recommend you install the diff without the pinion, set the side pre-load, then install the pinion. I would also check the backlash and pattern just to be sure. Someone's been in there.
Tapered bearings are supposed to have pre-load to survive.
I like getting differential parts from Tom's Differentials. When Tom still owned it he gave me lots of advice on my first differential rebuild and gear swap after I messed up the first set of gears (I was too loose on the backlash).
I would also recommend getting the GM gear marking compound. It is yellow, contrasts nicely with the black metal parts. Heck, by an install kit from Tom's. I think all of them are Timkin, made in USA bearings.
BTW, are the side shims under the bearings? Is that a Dana? I hate Dana's for that reason alone. Give me a GM any day over a Dana. I know Dana 60s require pinion spreaders to make your life easier - but they are expensive. See OTC.
BTW, before I did my own rear end work, I found offroad and 4x4 shops were the most economical way to do it. Those guys did gear swaps day in / day out and it was something like $500 / axle. Now a days, the gears alone would probably cost that.
Sorry for the long response
Maybe he torqued it to 25 ft lbs.
We used to over shim our spider gears on our oval track cars...limited slip wasn't allow..but Xtra tight shims were
Thumb up for Dave! He is excelent mechanic like Ray, hard working and always happy. He is keeper for sure. I salute you, sir!
That proctologist snap of the glove when you had to 'go deep' for the retaining clips got me.
anyone else watching the truck in drive on the lift going down secretly think "what if the lift failed and the truck went sailing through the back of the shop" that would make the highlight reel for sure. Love the knowledge and commentary from Ray!
I kinda agree that this test is best accomplished with another in the driver's seat.
In
That thought did cross my mind.
"Let's put this down." Wheels still in drive. Not a good idea I'm thinking.
Your theory of someone putting incorrect preload/tightness on the pinion may be it. I thought there was way too much backlash, which could be related to that. A full bearing overhaul, and limited slip too if the owner approves may be the ticket. I look forward to the followup video. Thanks for another great video. 😊
Exactly my thoughts. Preload on crush washer. Pinion bearing too loose.
Peace.
Looking at those back tires and weirdness with the pinion bearings, I bet a kid has been out doing power brake burnouts. I use to see this a lot in the 1990s in V8 cars from the 60s, 70s, and 80s. I hope you get this job for a full rebuild.
Like Sleeper Dude says you always want to check your rear end because no one else is going to do it for you!👍
Thanks for sharing knowledge on how to pinpoint problems. 80 years old and still trying to get more smarts. Hug our girl. Thanks
The foaming oil is from the oil moving in the diff. Banks has a video for their cover and it explains it.
I worked for a car sales office, had a chevy van with howling rear end. Dealer wanted 1600, Firestone did it for 600, I went to the shop to check it out, parts everywhere on two tables !!
Mechanic laughed at my moment of panic. 3 hours later, full bearing refit, I drove it, quiet as a kitten, amazing, 😅❤
Yeah, I have an f150 and it sounded very similar to what that one did. I took it apart and things didn't look to bad. But I could tell that at some point the pinion nut had been over tightened. You could really see it on the races. I think they were trying to compensate for an incorrect spacing between the pinion and ring gears. Since I was unsure about what all had been done to it. I just rebuilt the whole thing. I've had no worries since then. Although every once in a while I'll hear a high pitch clicking. Sounds like a U-joint to me. But the odd thing is that it just comes and goes. I can't seem to find a reoccurring situation that would making it happen. It's just completely random and goes away as quickly as it shows up. But, it is a Ford. Fix Or Repair Daily 😕🤦♂
Rather fix or repair daily, before I’m found on road dead…..😂😂
FORD has been around a long long time... so never forget: First On Race Day.
@@tomtke7351first on race day. Last to the finish line lol. F****ing old rebuilt dodge.
@@tomtke7351 First On Race Day.... More like Fucked On Race Day!
Just kidding, I have no hate for Fords.
Check the U-Joints if you think they are going bad. A broken U-Joint could lead to a cracked transmission case, transfer case and possibly bent driveshaft/ears or worse.
Ray, I appreciate the science fiction scene transition audio. One of many reasons why your channel hits.
I have driveshaft banging with slop between forward and reverse shifts that I've isolated to the rear end as well as a high speed vibration. I need to takle this same rear. Glad to see the job before hand. I will be Closely taking pointers on the part 2 reassemble. Thanks Ray
Sounds like rear universal.
@@bobherweg6442check the universals first
@@bobherweg6442 I replaced the drive shaft it is all brand new. It did help, but the vibration is still there. New tires and freshly balanced. Alignment was checked and redone all good. With the drive shaft disconnected from the rear end there is a notable amount of play moving the pinion flange forward and backwards and all of the drive shaft play that I can feel in the shifter goes away I cannot move the drive shaft at all connected into the transmission so there is no play in the four-wheel drive or transmission once disconnected from the rear end. Last thing I need to do having done all of that is to crack open the rear end. I think I have a broken bearing race or cage in the pinion part of the rear end assembly
Morning Ray- I got nervous when you were under that truck with the engine in gear ! Just me I guess !
Nope, You were not the only oneJack
Then you fundamentally don't understand physics.
@@williameldridge9382Well I guess I don't fundamentally understand physics either so please explain how they are applicable in this scenario.
No. Not just you, but I was more concerned as he lowered the truck towards the ground with the driving wheels still powered.
@@alanclarke2524 Me too I that's why I asked @williameldridge9382 why he responded we don't understand physics because of our concerns. He has yet to respond so must be a keyboard troll.
Following up on a previous comment I made about Dave being quoet and that is why I like him as part of your channel.
Back in the days before your own shop, there was a video where you changed a compressor on a ford van. One of your coworkers came to tell you to make sure to have the bolts in the compressor when reinstalling for the clearance.
I am sure that mechanic was trying to be helpful, and social. Or at least trying to get through the day.
Dave is recognizably skilled. When he helps you out, he makes sure he understands what help is needed, and doesn't try to one-up you
Dave probably quiet because he can't get a word in over Ray's talking!! LOL. (Just Jokin' folks)
Great video! I haven't done much differential stuff, only one has ever failed me on a Pinto station wagon in the early 80s. A $75 used rear axle at the wrecking yard solved that one.
Blown up u-joints,yokes and blew a spider gear threw the rear end housing 😢
Brave man to admit to owning a Pinto
@@DanielJohnson-ec8rkMy first car was a sh*t green pinto wagon. It was the 70's and I was so happy to have transportation. It wasn't like today with spoiled kids that don't appreciate what they have.
@@DocZoidberg549 when I was 17 I bought an 82 Trans am. This was about 1989. My insurance was $300 a month for bare Minimum liability. After 6 months of paying for insurance, I traded it straight across with my mom’s mechanic for an AMC Pacer.
Yes, it’s true. Now that car was embarrassing but cheap and reliable
Limited slip? I don't see any springs or clutch plates, also there was no tag on the cover bolt to use special additive.
That thing sounds like an air raid siren!
may favorite use for used newish oil is drill bit lubrication
And used transmission oil makes a grate winter rust prevention up north.
Newish gear lube goes in a container, when needed I dump it in another container, when the metal fuzz separates from the good oil on top, I REUSE IT! 🤩
When you show the close up of the bearing race at 24.04 you can see it has ridges in it; the rollers falling into these grooves is what is causing the noise, essentially cogging. It could be an under hardened race or it could have been someone putting way too much preload on the bearing (its probably a combination of the both)
the soft preload on the limited slip clutch sprags would be enough to prevent diff action without any load on it
Ray and Lauren.
Im baaaack. Have been sick with long haul covid for 2 years 10 months so laying really low. Missex you guys but im gwtring some betrer and loving how Ray diagnosis so very well. Trust your home was safe through Helene's fury.
Baseball cards in the spokes
Poker card is better since it’s laminated
When you drove off with that Helicopter sound, you drove it further than I would have ... I was waiting for the diff to explode
I’d have to agree with you ray. The rear end in this ford is super finicky and if someone torqued it down too much it will make that sound.
holy moly there's space in the yard. Could do all sorts of activities in there now.
As a diff. tech for many years it's my opinion you should look at replacing ring and pinion with the bearings it will make noise if you don't
It looks like that ring and pinion are toast, especially the wear at the outer edges. Slamming around with that much backlash likely did them in.
@@wilbilt 👍
That is the loudest rear end I have heard on or off the road!!
"Hey! It's that guy." That was IMPRESSIVE.
Wrong channel. 🤣
When Inspecting tapered roller bearings, always look at the inner races through the gaps after a solvent rinse…that is where the damage will show first and the worst. Inspecting the rollers only on the outside of the rollers and the outer races falls short of an effective inspection….but, in this case it’s pretty obvious that it needed pinion bearings.
Those dark lines on the outter races on the pinion bearings are the cause of the noise. It's like little divits the bearing has to roll over.
Dave's new nickname will be Radar
"I need a little bit of protection for reaching deep into the rear", and upon reassembly, we recommend a tube or two of Desitin be applied to the affected area of noise, I know it works for me!
I think you missed the noise - To me it sounded like the back lash was Way to Way out of adjustment and if you look closely to the ring gear at the outer tip the pinion wasn't set right and was extremely loose. Bearings don't sound like that They just growel
Okay, for a Friday I laughed too hard at the glove being put on….. 😂😂😂😂
Ray spinning the axle with a drill is every mechanic’s second childhood dream. Including myself!
Yeah, I liked that too.
I'd replace all the bearings since it's already apart and perhaps the clutch (friction ) plates if the wrong differential lubricant was used. Looking forward to part II.
I’ve been a fan of the Axel Saver Bearings anytime I’ve ever had to work on a rear end. An Axel Saver is built the same as a regular bearing, except they’re wider (double thick). It allowas you to keep an axle that otherwise would have to be replaced. If you’re working on a budget, they are lifesavers.
Hey, you can mix that with a little bit of regular drain oil and use it for chain lube on your chainsaw. I’ve been doing that for years.
At a guess, the really scrubbed up state of those tyres (or tires) might have been telling you that the differential action...well...wasn't?
I remember replacing front wheel bearings on a Plymouth Horizon where the owner's son rode the brakes for 2 miles coming down a mountain heating the rotors to the point where they turned blue and cooked the grease in both bearings. Test driving the car produced a noise that sounded like a twin engine Cessna flying 10 feet over the car.
I literally just went through the same thing on my 05 f 150.
Starting hearing a little bit of a whine after I changed the pinion seal, took the whole diff apart thinking I toasted some bearings but everything looked good (much better than the diff in this video) and I put everything back together.
Set preload torque to 15 in/lbs with the used crush sleeve.
It went back together fine and there’s still a little bit of a whine… thinking I’ll open it back up and put a new crush sleeve at some point.
Good to know, that there could be that kind of pressure on pinion bearings without any real obvious damage to the bearings or races. That pinion was supposed to turn with only a few inch pounds.
3:08 ...Sounds like the bearings that are supporting the differential carrier are thoroughly trashed very early on with
my first watching the video but hey with this truck having already 175k+ miles on it, the whole damned diff needs a
rebuild!! In addition to hearing that noise, I'd dare say that the spider gears and/or the entire carrier group is whooped!
I will be also looking forward to Ray finding a gear oil leak that has probably started this mess as this video progresses!
This is the first time I've heard you acknowledge that you really can't pinpoint the problem, so replace everything is the way forward.
The last time I heard that was about 30 years ago when a fellow mechanic and the foreman had an engine knock on an 1800 for diesel and replacing every bush, bearing and the piston ring gave gave them a positive outcome. They would never have found the offending individual part.
“It’s ‘limited slip’ only until you spill lubricant on the shop floor. Then it’s ’unlimited slip’!” 😅
I did both axle bearings, carrier, Eaton locker with serviceable U joints. My Denali had one end of a u joint hanging and I didn’t realize it. It destroyed my G80, every bearing and the pinion gear looked like a pencil fresh out of the sharpener.
It is a very common problem. I had a 2008 that did the same. They were originally recalled. If noise just started it can be shimmed. It's just the gear alignment. Even when parts look perfect. I had to get all new rear end parts from driveshaft yolk to inner wheel bearings.
Rainman Ray.. I would definitely do a complete rebuild on it. And now is the perfect opportunity to change the gear ratio. Why not, right?
Full bearing rebuild is in order if the owner is going to keep truck. Otherwise, minimum replacement.
The Pinion shaft was definitely too tight, possibly a shim in the wrong place, or missing one.
I dont know what you did but the only time o heard any difference at all was right at the diff cover
One of the best looking F-150 models ever produced. That one is in great shape and still worth $10k.
I have seen you put new bearings in axels and you have said set the correct tension on bearings to gain the uneven wear not to shorten the life .
Least of your worries with that year F150. Pretty sure that thing is part of the recall that is due to the trans downshifting to first at any speed. Quality UAW made vehicle!
When you talk about tapered roller bearings, the bearing set is known a cup and cone. I only know this as I worked in a bearing house then a electric motor shop. Just for your information.
I also think it needs shims, neither side has them and it did come out way too easy, so it may need to be shimmed properly to get the pinion lined up with the ring
A limited slip differential will spin both wheels when both of them are off the ground with no pressure on neither one of them. This carrier has no issues, no need to replace it.
Pinion preload and mis adjusted ring to pinion gears
I'm doing this on a 2004 tomorrow. Truck has 114K miles. The noise is almost as loud as this. Owner did not complain one bit about it.
Same rear-end as my 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7. Mine started whining bad at 243K.
Sounded just like this except no play. The siren was running!
It was the large pinion bearing race failed. It was quite pitted and pieces flaked off.
Bearings weren't that bad.
Had to clean all the metal flakes from the entire axle.
Replaced all bearing, races and seals as Ray is doing here.
Installed a Truetrac unit and did not deal with the crush sleeve but instead utilized one of the kits that has shims.
Took a little trial and error but got it all perfect.
Now 10K later and still perfect. Nice thing about Truetrac is that it has no clutches to wear out as the clutches on mine were worn out. New trucks are too expensive so I invest in mine for the future.
Compared bad race to pictures on internet and clearly showed that it was metal fatigue from the miles of use.
I think it's the inner pinion bearing race. just an observation. I agree rebuild the whole rear end or put a used one in it. Great troubleshooting method.
Hi Ray. Those Ford 8.8's have been known to have their pinion nuts loosen up all by themselves and they can make that horrible noise even if the bearings still look good. That's why they recommend to use a new pinion nut with red thread locker upon reassembly. That doesn't explain a resistance to turning freely though ...
Thanks!
put in a new pinion seal and crush sleeve, check for wear on carrier shims, the carrier bearing cups were spinning in the housings. the carrier shims are worn. Too much backlash.
You have the patience of a saint and evidently the heat resistance of a camel. Maybe I am just getting older but I can't do the simplest thing with my car anymore. Within 3 minutes my clothes are soaked in sweat and shortly after that my glasses are also covered and I can't see what I am doing anyways
When I first heard the noise when you were driving it sounded similar to UJ noises, possible the tone relative to road speed. I didn't think of pinion bearings though.
It really sounded like the pion was slipping I'm surprised it didn't chew them up.
If it was mine I'd take this time to do a full rebuild and upgrade to the way he drives either speed or power like you did on the Jeeps.
He can always sell the used parts as a set.
Good Day Ray and hi to Dave
Curious to see if one of the pinion inner bearing races is cracked.
Some ford trucks require a friction modifier addative in the diff, along with the gear oil . Without the addative it can cause damage and noise.
Simple, just turn the radio up. No more differential noise!
I agree -- if it were me I'd replace all of the bearings and associated parts, maybe even the center section as well.
Good call, I'd rebuild it so you can stand behind it. It's only going to serve the customer into the future anyway so might as well do it right the first time and then forget about it. Also Amsoil Severe Gear will do a great job in this Rear-End.
I am just a diy mechanic but I can’t see this being a limited slip. Those I think are just side gear thrust washers- not clutches. Looks like you are on the right track-replacing bearings and getting the correct pre-load.
I had a 1978 Dodge Aspen with locking diff. A special additive fluid , four ounces)was required to be added to the differential to quiet the clutch packs in it.
Is either the pinion bearings, or teeth on the pinion,,, the sound was in exact sync with the rotation of the driveshaft,, :-) That's my story and I'm stickin tooit,,, ;-)
"Using the whole fist there doc?"-Fletch lol
Best movie EVER
Ray I think if you break the bearing cage and with the rollers out of the way ill bet there is damage to the inner race surface hardening, there seem to be to much noise in there to be just a preload issue.
Had the same issue 2 times with my 1988 E30 325is BMW.... Ended up doing a complete rear diff overhaul.
This rear has allot of problems . My first thought as the pinion bearings . But because of the miles and the problem with those clutches , I would just replace that center unit with a good used one or a new one . But it’s up to the owner . Your very good at rear ends so I am certain that you will handle this very well for the owner .
Ray I'm betting that the self locking nut that holds the pinion yoke on to the pinion gear had been loosened before to replace the pinion seal and rather than replacing that nut with the seal, someone replaced the seal then had trouble with the nut coming loose, and over tightened it, which put too much preload on the pinion bearings.
Interesting. Can't wait to see the rebuild.
I believe you are correct. The adjustments had been tinkered with for those bearings, causing a lot of stress in that diff. Good catch!
Ray you make me wish I was in Florida instead of New Mexico, my 1996 Chevy C-1500 could use your expertise (being a shade-tree mechanic ain't all it is cracked up to be, lol).
I would start looking for recycling yard replacement part.
Wow, that is some NASTY bearing noise. I’ve had more bearing failures than most will ever have but the closest one I experienced was mistaken by the owner for the sound/feel of knobby tires. No way could this one ever be mistaken like that!
Looks like you are missing the carrier shims, causing excessive backlash. I just did one on a 07 with the carrier cracked. It did the exact same thing.
MAN!! That noise made my ears ring! And through the video no less.
With that kind of noise and a binding pinion there should be visible damage, since damage cant be seen that might be causing noise, the owner has 4 choices, put old parts back in, put new parts in, sell to highest bidder, or use for target practice........
Just had mine replaced last month same noise. New diff and bearings all around. Worked great did complete break in procedure. 3500 miles later same whining. Going back to shop tomorrow.
Good video, always learning stuff. On what to do.. and not to do. Like filming under a running vehicle 🚗
Remembered once you showed tires ok if i was owner would be a complete rebuild and probably replace the whole dif unit may be some upgrades will doing it id want to really check where the bearings are running on the axle and where the seals sit
So how does Dave like his new Box?