Build this SIM LAB GT1 style 8020 sim cockpit and save 40%
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2018
- ▼▼▼ EXPAND FOR IMPORTANT LINKS & INFO ▼▼▼
In this video, we've updated our 8020 sim cockpit build design inspired by SIM LAB's current-gen GT1 sim cockpit. Can we do it and can we do it cheaper? Watch the video and find out!
▶ Download Frame Designer (It's free): www.framexpert.com/products/fr...
▶ Project files and build list: bit.ly/2Ge5RhR
You can help support Sim Racing Corner by using my affiliate links. I will earn a small commission for products bought through the affiliate links, but it won't cost you anything! Thanks!
▶ Amazon (UK)amzn.to/3dNPW8d (US)amzn.to/2XEBgTf
▶ Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/Gmm...
▶ eBay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
▶ Buy discounted game keys from my Kinguin affiliate link: www.kinguin.net/?r=60396
▶ Buy discounted game keys from my Greenman Gaming affiliate link:
You can support Sim Racing Corner with a small donation through PayPal: bit.ly/2CrhPSv
Follow Sim Racing Corner on Twitter to get notifications on new videos and other sim racing malarky: / cornersim
🚗SIM HARDWARE🚗
SIM LAB GT1 cockpit
Leo Bodnar SimSteering 2
Next Level Racing Motion V3: (UK) amzn.to/2J7LcM9 / (US) amzn.to/2DT2dd2
Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro
Heusinkveld Handbrake
Aiologs Seq shifter
HTC Vive: (UK) amzn.to/2QWeWOy / (US) amzn.to/2KrQv9z
Derek Speare Designs P1 button box
Fanatec Clubsport Formula rim (USB converted)
Ascher button plate
💾PC HARDWARE💾
Intel i7 8700k: (UK) amzn.to/2J1pGZl / (US) amzn.to/2KrMdPC
EVGA GTX 1080ti: (UK) amzn.to/2J3LSCb / (US) amzn.to/2FEIe3m
16GB Corsair 3000mhz RAM: (UK) amzn.to/2J3azP1 / (US) amzn.to/2FA5QGt
Z370 Aorus Gaming motherboard (UK) amzn.to/2yHhetr / (US) amzn.to/2FEO1Gp
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 PSU: (UK) amzn.to/2J1OIrb / (US) amzn.to/2zjj4li
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240 GB: (UK) amzn.to/2OrRDPQ / (US) amzn.to/2KsZXJU
Samsung 970 EVO 250: (UK) amzn.to/2QY5HgU / (US) amzn.to/2S7ibU4
Crucial MX500 SSD: (UK) amzn.to/2RTSBSZ / (US) amzn.to/2FDfTus
WD 2TB Desktop SATA Hard Drive: (UK) amzn.to/2J0kg0u / (US) amzn.to/2S7j4vS
Antlion Audio ModMic: (UK) 5 amzn.to/2DfvSfq / (US) amzn.to/2FCFi7k
BOYA BY-M1 Lavalier Microphone: (UK) amzn.to/2R8hY2P / (US) amzn.to/2DSP3wB
Logitech Biro Gaming Webcam 4k: (UK) amzn.to/2DxRVPj / (US) amzn.to/2zl24Ll
Logitech 920 Webcam: (UK) amzn.to/2OYHvcB / (US) amzn.to/2KshPoh
Rode NT-USB Microphone: (UK) amzn.to/2OADN8Z / (US) amzn.to/2PQuVBCJ0kg0u
MUSIC:
Chilling by 🌴Oshóva🌴 / osh-va
Music promoted by Audio Library • Chilling - Oshóva (No ...
Song: Simon More - Somewhere In Nature (Vlog No Copyright Music)
Music promoted by Vlog No Copyright Music.
Video Link: • Simon More - Somewhere...
#Simracing #SimRacingTutorials #simrig 
Игры
▶ You can support me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/simracingcorner
▶ Buy a Coffee for Sim Racing Corner: ko-fi.com/simracingcorner
Hi guys simlab here. Nice vid!
Thanks for sharing your plans. I'm new to sim racing and have been looking for an affordable setup that I can add to in the future. This is just what I was looking for. Keep up the great work! liked and subbed.
Great vid. I took a look at premade ones online and had already come to the conclusion if i decide to get one id build myself. You just went and made that task much easier if i decide to build so thank for this.
Thank you for the detailed video. This will help on my future DIY cockpit, I currently did a DIY wood sim racing cockpit and it is the best upgrade I have done for my sim racing experience.
Glad it helped!
In America we have a steel product called SuperStrut. Its not as pretty as 8020 aluminum but it is similar to work with. Its available at local hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot. To give you an example of price: A 10' (3 meter) bar of 1-5/8" square tubing is $18.57. I'm building a rig to hold my Fanatec CSL Elite kit/ with H-shifter, Jegs 70200 seat, and 49" 4k tv. My total cost is around $150 for the rig and $45 for the seat (still tweaking the design). That CAD program you are using is real slick. I'm stuck using tinker CAD on a Chromebook. My operation is a truly low budget.
For angle adjustment of the wheel, if you decided you want it, you can use the slotted hole brackets on the sides of your wheel mount extensions. Cheers and good luck building.
Very ingenious Todd. SuperStrut does look like an interesting option. It should work fine for lighter gear.
Great video! I ordered the parts in your spreadsheet from a US supplier today and am excited to build it!
Which supplier did you use and what did it end up costing? I was going to check Misumi to price this out.
thanks for this, looking to build exactly this and you have shown everything i need, thanks so much, liked/subbed GJ
Glad you found this useful, good luck with your build. And thanks for the sub fella.👍
You are a star! Thank you!
Great video! I really appreciate the work you put in! you got yourself a subscriber mate!
Cheers fella. And welcome to my channel.😃
great work can't wait to build one of these beauts :)
I just decided to see what it would cost me to build this rig setup, with all the exact pieces and fasteners, and the price difference with freight fees comes so close to the price of simlabs version, that i couldn't justify going the DIY way.
And thats the thing, unless you have a 8020 supplier nearby and you can get reasonable freight prices or even pick up its probably cheaper and then i could see it. But i also can appreciate the designwork Simlab has put to the rig in the first place so I prefer to support the company instead, pay a little extra for essentially the same product. This way I support as many jobs as possible in the line of production.
Great video I know what rig I’m going for now. Just thought I’d mention it would be it would be easy enough to be able to change the steering wheel angle. All you would have to do is modify the bolt holes on the 90 degree brackets.
Great tip!
Hey! Love this. Going to give it a go. Please may you recommend parts to order to add a single monitor mount to the frame, rather than a floor standing monitor stand?
This is great, is there a way to export the parts list after you design something in May-CAD?
Excellent Video! Bro, i tried to build up a triple monitor stand. but the connector matirals doesn't match
Huge thanks for posting this video, i was on the verge of ordering a P1 but I think I'll just build one of these instead and put the money saved into building 4 SFX-100 actuators ;-)
You're welcome Andy. Good luck with the motion build, that's a really cool project.
How do you attach the Fanatec DD1 to this rig? Which brackets do I need?
Liked and subscribed thank you
Thanks fella, welcome to my little channel. 😁
Great plan
Good feature
having a difficult time finding a supplier in US for the brackets and t-nuts. I must be using poor search terms. Motidis has them, but shipping is crazy expensive. MK has the extruded aluminum, but no t-nuts, or the type of bracket needed.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Very clever.
Great idea for a video and nicely done!
Naive question: do you think scaling it down to 20x20 size would compromise rigidity?
Reason I am asking is that it is 1/3 the price here in Hungary compared to 40x40 profiles.
My 3D printer frame is constructed from 20x20. It's only good for lightweight applications so not strong enough for significant weight-bearing. But 30x30 would work though. It's not unknown for people to use 30x30 for sim rig builds.
What should the wall thicness of the 8020 be?
Hi,
Trying to save space here to then place a independent 3 monitor stand on the outside of the base.
1. If we place the vertical 40x120 on top of the base 40x80, would the rig be still as STURDY/STABLE as your design? or will be be less stable? Any particular reason you kept the vertical on the outside instead of on top?
2. If we go with the 40x120 on top of 40x80 option would you recommend to reduce height from 790mm to 710mm or to still keep it 790mm?
Thanks and waiting for your reply as im ready to place order.
Thanks a ton 😊🙏💐
1. You can, but I'd recommend you use joining plates instead of the basic brackets to prevent flex. That's the reason this design has the uprights on the outside, so they can be sufficiently secured with these angle brackets.
2. I would reduce the height.
This is awesome i never knew you could just order the parts yourself and build it yourself? Is it pretty straightforward in building this ? Or did you follow the original sim lab instructions?
I originally bought my cockpit from Sim Lab, then drew up the design into this CAD software.
Do I need any tipe of machninig for M8 screws?
Great video but where did you get you Aluminium from and fittings please. Have you got a website link. Thank you.
Hi there. In the video description, if you download the 'Project files and build list' there's a parts list spreadsheet which directs you where you can buy each individual component. Cheers!
I really gonna go with this setup, it's too bad there's no update on this rig.
Congrats for you work. Do you have a video with the final product?
I already have a 80/20 built sim rig so I didn't build this one.
at some places where you have used 2x 4040bracket, is it better to use a single 4080 corner bracket instead?
Are 2x 4040 corner bracket inherently more stable than a 1x 4080 corner bracket?
I think there will be times when spreading the load with 2 4040 brackets is better than a single 4080 bracket.
Hi mate, little recommendation / request, could you do a similar video for the 3 monitor stand that simlabs offer.
Certainly, I can work that one out. I'm currently working on a review so I'll plan it after I'm finished with that.
the pedal mount seems bit high no?
After coming a cross a link to the aluminium profile company I decided to finally have ago at building my own rig for my needs and I was all in for 203 pounds(that's with p+p)hoping to have it delivered this week .
Which website did you use?
@@ved1155 Motides.co.uk
This is really helpful. Could you clarify how I fix the pedals and wheel if I go down this route please? I undertand the simlab rig has a bespoke pedal and wheel plate.
Some wheels and pedals can be bolted directly to the profile using just t-nuts. Others can be attached to the profile using corner brackets. Other wheel and pedals may require additional profile parts or a flat mounting deck. Basically depends on the hardware.
@@SimRacingCorner could you share how the Tlcm would be able to be connected to your designed rig. What extra parts I need to order. Thank you.
@@ranakirti I use this ruclips.net/video/H34NnGCephQ/видео.html
gt1 evo user here looking to add and make mine better
Thanks for the video.
I downloaded the project file and parts list.
There is a difference between your project files and parts list, because in parts list I noticed 2* 66 mm 120*40 but in the project there are 2*79 mm 120*40.
Is there any difference in other parts too?
Thank you in advance.
Thanks for letting me know, I'll take a look.
Thanks again Makan, you're right. I've corrected the parts list now. All the best!
couple questions....
are your wheel base stanchions 300mm?
300mm is the shortest in your xls, so i'm assuming they are.
also i'm looking at purchasing a clubsport wheelbase 2.5 from fanatec and it looks like it has a 3 bolt triangle pattern for mounting.
have you considered how this 4 point square style would accommodate that?
The clubsport comes with an angle bracket that provides a 4 bolt pattern that will work with this.
Otherwise. Just make a deck out of board, drill and bolt through.
Ah I didn't know about the bracket, ty for telling me!
Have you added any type of feet to your rig? I wanted to do 6 leveling style feet but they are 25% of the total cost!! I'm considering skipping them and just setting the rig right on the floor.
@@jaywarren3505 I've added 4 rubber feet to mine, but sitting the frame on the floor is just fine really.
I’m basically doing the same, but my reference is a customcockpits ks60
Cool, that's a cockpit brand I'm wasn't aware of so cheers for that. Interesting, I'll have a think about making a video on a design based around this one. That looks like a decent build for any non-direct drive wheel setup.
Any new update on building a new SIM Rig . Great video smashed that like thanks
This is a classic, practical style of design that stands the test of time. So I haven't felt the need to revisit this subject. My personal sim rig is the SIM LAB GT1, so it's effectively the same as this one.
@@SimRacingCorner thanks 👍
Actually, you can check out my setup in my most recent sim rig tour. ruclips.net/video/p86LYGQqX0M/видео.html. It's modded a bit over the years to accommodate gear I've attached, but essentially the foundation of the rig is unchanged.
Hello
When I opening the file: "UPDATED SIM LAB STYLE GT1 8020 for FRAME DESIGNER.scene" in framedesigner it all works well.
But when I am trying to open "UPDATED SIM LAB STYLE GT1 8020 for MAY-CAD.scene" it say "Warning: Unavaible Vendors - This scene not supported with current software settings"
I wonder if you can help me with that?
I just installed the framedesigner and only thing I have done is to open your 2 files.
Thanks
there's one file for may-cad and one file for frame designer
hey man love your video! is there any way you could make a P1 style 80/20 :)
Great idea, I've put this on my list of things to do. I'm working on a review right now so it will be next in line. All the best.
Sim Racing Corner p1 please!!
Just priced this up on Motedis with shipping to UK £396.77
What kind of seat goes with this? Can you put most seats on it and adjust them? Does the design have any of those quick tightening parts so you can easily move pedals and seat around?
The point of this type of build is it's easily adjustable to fit all types of gear (including seats) and modular. Eg. ruclips.net/video/p86LYGQqX0M/видео.html
@@SimRacingCorner Ok I'm sold, that was a cool video. So you can basically put anything on it as long as you figure it out how to do it. Little bit of like playing with a puzzle. I think starting basic and then adding things little by little with time is the way to go.
Yes, it's a completely versatile platform you can add too and move things around, and structurally stiff. The materials are easy to work with, there's no real skill needed. The design in the video covers the essential base measurements and parts for the structure.
@@SimRacingCorner Thank you for the quick answers. I checked a site that sells 8020 and all the parts and sky is the limit for this. I'm going to check your videos on if you have triple screen stand too and other rigs. I would wish many seating positions were possible, and it would be a bit higher from the ground than this rig. This would be good enough for my needs as is though, just nitpicking.
was thinking why are the aluminum on the pedal plates that high? Is there any way to reduce aluminum used on the pedal plates by changing there positions etc?
The rear pillars are high to allow the pedal deck to be tilted. And the design does overcompensate by trying to be a universal platform to support all circumstances. Of course you are free to alter the design for your needs.
@@SimRacingCorner all situations toy mean like for a f1 style higher pedal setup? and lower for gt3 setup? that's why increased it from 200mm to 300mm? Thanks
@@ranakirti Basically yes, and also the pedals. High-end pedals have title adjustable pedals, where cheaper pedals sets don't. So you need to be able to tilt the pedal deck in those situations.
What is the weight of the rig before seat/wheel and pedals please?
Sorry I have no idea.
how do I mount g29 wheel here?
Hey bud. Sorry to dig up an old vid, just wanted your view on whether this is still a viable option (self build old style SimLab GT1) in comparison to the current SimLab GT1 Evo rig? Price wise theres only about £40 quid in it (inc shipping) between the two. I can see a lot of the extrusion has been removed, with custom aluminium plate used for the pedal area on the newer evo version.
I'm currently using a modded up playseat challenge (due to the need for it to be folded away) with a TX wheel, T3PA pedals and TH8A shifter, but I'm going to have the opportunity for a permanent rig in the next few months, so I'd appreciate your views :)
No worries, this is still quite a popular video. The EVO GT1 is very nice at a good price point, it's a really good option. The DIY build in the video will be a bit more sturdy than the EVO GT1, but nothing of concern and would still be stiff enough to carry a direct drive wheel. I do like the look of it. I don't think you can go wrong with the EVO GT1.
@@SimRacingCorner Appreciate the reply. As this build (and in most dimensions, the GT1 Evo) is similar to your rig, would you think it would slide under a desk right up to the back of the steering upright extrusions? Just playing with ideas of the screen being sat on a desk/arm mounted, so I can push it back and use my PC for 3D CAD etc. as well as for sim duties.
@@Skate2create You could the slide pedal area under a desk, to the point the uprights of the wheel deck would butt up to the tabletop. You should need about 450mm of depth (measurement taken from my rig) under the desk for the pedal area to fit.
@@SimRacingCorner top man, just the info I needed :)
@@Skate2create Get a monitor swivel arm and you can team just swivel and move your monitor right at the end of your desk
Hi, great video but 5 years old. I am looking into sim rigs right now (like a lot of people) and would really like to know if this is still going to be more cost effective than buying off the shelf?
You'll need to do your own research on this, and check the parts against local suppliers for the best price and see if it's worth the effort of a DIY vs. a turnkey option. The only thing I'll add, is for the connecting brackets, AliExpress is the cheapest place to find all those pieces. Ultimately, a DIY build will be always cheaper if you don't mind shopping around for the materials.
thanks for quick reply. I was really hoping to lure you into making an updated video :) Your insights and previous experience would certainly be valuable @@SimRacingCorner
In light of this video not getting much traction since being published, it's a not a subject I'm looking to revisit at the moment and I currently have a bunch of other new videos I'm working through.
Have you made any newer versions or plans?
I don't, I made just a few of these videos. It's a style of design that stands the test of time.
I noticed the video and frame designer scene have 40x120x660 uprights. The excel parts list and may-cad model have 40x120x790 uprights.
I assume simlab increased this length because of their custom wheelmount part.
Yes, you correct, the 790mm is based on the SimLab custom wheel mount. I would say though if you going with a wheel mount design like mine, I would recommend 760mm (minimum) uprights or taller. Having the freedom the adjust wheel deck height is important. In hindsight, 660mm is a bit short.
Hello good day, nice video. just want to ask, i saw on your buying list that it has the 80x40, 120x40 measurments. Unfortunately the store that i asked to said that they only have thr 40x40 size, but they said that they have this kind of "joiner" to make it for the size im looking for.. are you familiar with the "joiner".. will that work to make me have the 80x40 and 120x40.. sorry for the questions, i am new to all of these..
The joiners, I'm assuming, are straps which join together the stacked pieces of aluminium. You can see them being used here: ruclips.net/user/shortsXDhY71ot16U. It's works, but personally, I wouldn't want to use them for the entire sim rig build.
@@SimRacingCorner Thank you, just subscribed. thanks for the tips. one last question though, based from your build design, it seems that the wheel deck or mount is not adjustable in terms of angle, like for example you want the wheel to be somewhat upward angle.. how do you think this can be done?
Depending on the wheelbase, a different solution may need to be worked out to get an angle. What wheelbase are you using or planning to run?
For example, In the video I pointed you too, I am able to get some angle using the brackets that connect the wheelbase to the props (standard 40/40 angle brackets, but I could increase the angle with 40/80 brackets). And for example, with a Thrustmaster/Logitech wheelbase, it's designed with an angle already for placement on a flat surface like a desk.
Also, you could combine your DIY build with a third party wheelbase mount like this sort of thing. trakracer.com/products/wheel-deck-with-full-slide-and-angle-adjustment?_pos=35&_sid=e777a59b3&_ss=r.
@@SimRacingCorner I am planning to use the VRS DD, but havent buy it yet. looking on the pictures of it..its flat and it does not have an angle if you mount it.
Is the rake of the pedal deck adjustable on this design? Looking at it, I wondered if it could be adjusted by braking the tabs off the 40/40 brackets that connect the pedal deck to the uprights?
Yes, that's exactly how you would adjust the angle.
@@SimRacingCorner Thanks! It's bloody complicated working all this out, so these videos are really helpful! I was going to buy adjustable angle brackets, but if I can do it with just breaking the tabs off the 40/40 brackets, I will do that.
Not able to understand this... unvale to see 40/40 brackets in the shared parts list file... pls expand. Thanks.
How do I mount the wheelbase. Sorry I'm new to this. Would appreciate it if you could link me to something
Which brand/model of wheelbase?
@@SimRacingCorner thrustmaster t300
@@sadistic6007 The easy solution is attaching some board across the 2 bits sticking out of the frame to create a mounting surface.
@@SimRacingCorner alright thanks. Also what should I do if I want some angle for my wheel base. I,e I want it tilting upwards a bit for some comfort
@@sadistic6007 You should be okay with the T300, the wheelbase is already angled when mounted to flat surface like a desk.
226 gbp... WOW that is insane cut cost
which length do the m8 screws have to have?
You will need to use 15mm M8 bolts
@@SimRacingCorner My question exactly. I'm making this in the EU, and I paid 375 EUR for everything. Thanks a lot for all the work you put in. See you on the track.
That's awesome, that's a great saving. Please let me know how your build goes I'm very interested. All the best.
@@SimRacingCorner in your vid, did you not buy m8x20mm, and then only 6 of them? Bit confused trying to mimic your basket.
@@jduvel In the video I confused myself and messed that bit up, sorry about that. In the downloadable parts list (in the video description) the correct size and number of bolts are listed on the spreadsheet. The ones you want will be the M8x16mm bolts.
Watched both your vids today, great videos but you still got the bolts wrong as in last vid, m8x20 is 20 mm long, not 20 pcs. You basically got 6 bolts in that list stk = pcs in german, where i would guess the seller is from. Bolts are cheap so wouldnt make much of a difference but just a note for upcoming videos :)
You were clearly paying attention. You're totally correct, I realised the error later on. Just me getting confused while recording. I corrected this in the downloadable parts list. And thanks for watching. All the best.
@@SimRacingCorner Hi Guys, Just subscribed. Excellent work. Can I confirm that it should be 116 stk Size M8x16? Thank you
@@ladaloutevans Hi David, yes, it's the M8x16 (16 is the length in mm) bolts you need and lots of them as listed in the part list.
@@SimRacingCorner Awesome. Close to buying a 3d printer!!! You will know what for! ;)
I think I do. Handy things 3D printers.
We need a simple adjustable cheaper Inverted pedal mounts as well!
I don't know if you've seen the Trak Racer inverted pedal bracket. That would be ideal for this.
@@SimRacingCorner I just saw that last night actually and already considering it, either that or diy with some 4040 profiles. If all the parts for diy would cost close to the tract racer shipped then Ill just go with the track racer for sure
@@daemon3spade I do particularly like the Trak Racer solution. I've been considering it myself. But my purpose would extend to future pedal reviews where I need something I can easily adjust on the fly.
Alright mate.. I just received my Sprints and feeling them by hand they are a bit tougher to push, this really will require a solid base definitely
@@daemon3spade What sim rig are you currently using?
Am i missing something here a Sim LAB GT1 Evo is £360.00 - £405.00 ( unsure on shipping costs ) and this build cost me £401.52 plus £50 shipping
An easy mistake to make. But this isn't based on the Evo design, this is the older SimLab GT1 used to sell just named the GT1, which was more heavy-duty and more expensive.
@@SimRacingCorner OK thanks for clearing that up.. I was sure I was messing something up somewhere.
they said they are coming to the US soon. I cant wait. time to ditch the wooden beast rig
Hi I sent you an email regarding this video. Hope to hear back from you. Thank you!
Yep, I have your email. I'll get to you shortly.
With todays prices, significantly less than 40% savings. Not worth it at the moment from Motedis
Very true, I produced this video when the pound was a lot stronger against the Euro, which directly influences these prices. So it's tougher to make good savings right now.
@@SimRacingCorner..It is. Thanks for the part list it helps with solutions for the custom parts. Hopefully, I can source parts cheaper elsewhere.
too bad the shipping is 140 euros...
That's a lot of money to spend on a couple pieces of metal
Before you say about saving money say what parts SIM lab has and why they cost what they do. SIM Lab provides custom made parts and also the time going into developing their rigs. This costs more .
I get what you are saying but it isn't really best practice to not give all the details.
Of course, they have custom parts (which have to be substituted here) and you're paying for a service. But, did you realise SIM-LAB actually publish a PDF with all the measurements of the designs on their store page? Anyone can literally do this without my help. And quite honestly the basic frame design is not unique, people have been DIYing 8020 cockpits for years before SIM-LAB we're around.
@@SimRacingCorner the point I'm making is though the saving you make is because you don't have the custom parts . You haven't made it clear about that. If you take into consideration just the 8020 prices it's probably similar. I agree with you bring able to do it cheaper just state all facts though.
@@555gta At the end of the first minute of the video I talk about custom parts. You obviously haven't watched it at all!
@@SimRacingCorner I did watch it all. You are not getting my point though. Price difference for custom parts ,research and development and also the personal service you get. Not someone who copies the design and sticking measurements into a site ,then saying this is as good as original save yourself money. If that's the way you want to go be my guest.
@@555gta I'm happy to give viewers the benefit of their own intelligence they're fully aware that propriety custom parts are more expensive and they have been substituted here which makes the build cheaper, as is sourcing the parts yourself. People aren't stupid.
And yes, functionally it's as capable as the original. I'll stand by that.