Hi Justin, your enclosure looks very nice. Do you plan on releasing the files? I could not find any CAD models of the XL to create the drawings for the 3d printed parts and acrylic sheets. Thanks alot.
The enclosure reached an internal temperature (near the top of the tool) of 59C when printing ABS (Nozzle-255C Bed-105C). I did change the setting to heat the entire bed. Files can be downloaded here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/prusa-xl-enclosure-custom-jussin5150
Question, the 3D printed parts are zero problem at all. I do have the XTool P2 55 watt CO2 laser with the extension bed. So I can technically laser cut clear acrylic (upto 20mm in one pass) that is about 26" x 39" (can expand to up to 3m) using the automatic conveyor feeder I got with the all-in-1 bundle. Where is the best place to get larger sheets of 1/4" acrylic or would you recommend polycarbonate instead? I was hoping there is a place that has 2' x 4' so I can use the laser to break it down to smaller pieces. But if I were to get a 4'x8' sheet I would need to process it down into pieces no wider than the 26" working width. Curious what technique you would recommend for cutting the bigger sheets down to more usable size for my laser. I look forward to building this enclosure, thanks for all the work it must have taken to put together the downloadables, the video, the website, the graphics, and everything that goes with this. $20 seems like a steal really.
@@Hangs4Fun I bought a 48x96 sheet from a company called regal plastics for $190 and they cut it into 4 pieces of 24x36 for $35. Your CO2 laser probably could cut polycarbonate but it might make some nasty gasses.
@@justinrsmith21Thanks. I use both the HEPA filter system and 6" accelerator exhaust helper to pull out fumes outside of my shop. I like the idea of buying a full 4x8 sheet in 1/4" and having it cut by them into 4 pieces of 24x48. I can handle more than 39" (without upgrading the extension), but to actually cut more than 39" I would have to do indexing. Upgrading it to the 3meter long, would let me work with 26" by 3 meter long and could cut, etch, engrave the whole length. So I like the idea of having stock of 24x48 and will be fine sticking within 26x39 for a majority of what I do. The extra 9" will just be extra that I could feed in as I consume the whole piece. Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Nice enclosure. Thank you for sharing. I will make a similar one. I will bend the acrilyc to use fewer connecting pieces and thus improve the view. Waiting for dual and five head ordered 19 november 2021. Belgium.
very interesting idea with the bending of the acrylic. How would one bend 1/4" acrylic (with heat?). I do have a 36" wide metal break from HarborFreight. If you don't mind sharing, what would be the process?
Air scrubber would be a nice addition. Just circulate the air through hepa and carbon using a computer fan. ABS really lets of some fumes. I made one for my mk3. Just stuck it on top and put a hood over the whole thing. Now i have the XL, no hood, no filter.
Very nicely done! I hope to get my XL by the first of next year and this will be high on my priority list. It shouldn't be a big effort to add a filtration system as Prusa did with their MK3 enclosure.
Amazing effort! Such a great deal for an awful amount of work, paid for the download and printed all the parts. Now to count out all the part numbers from the STEP file and find the Australian equivalents 😅
@@HobbyFinn2 really good! I used nuts instead of heatserts and made a few changes to the printed parts, and also used 4.5mm acrylic instead of 6, but it works great and really keeps the heat in.
In the UK i can only get the acrylic in mm so the closest i can get is 6mm where 1/4 inch would be 6.35mm, other than the length of the hardware do you think it would cause any issues? I wouldn't have thought so but thought it is best to check. Thanks.
Hey, I would like to buy the model for your Prusa XL housing. Is there a materials list of what I need? Can you tell me the overall dimensions for the entire printer with structure?
I'm waiting for my roll of ABS filament to test. But, I have printed with Polymaker PC-ABS filament, which has very similar filament settings (nozzle temp 270C and bed 105C). The internal temperature of the enclosure (at the lid) when it was printing was about 39C (102F).
@justinsmith841 any chance you can design this using a 10x18x5.5 thrust bearing ?...its much easier to source compared to the 2mm thick version. (and much cheaper) edit...after looking at the thrust washer some more, I realized its not a needle bearing, just an impregnated washer...I think a machine washer will work just fine...from the looks of it it just keeps the two printed pieces of plastic from rubbing on each other.
If you buy an enclosure thru Pursa they send you a bunch of stuff you have to change on the printer besides adding the enclosure to get it ready or optimized for high heat operations. You make those changes or you just added the enclosure and called it quits?
Do you have any instructions telling me how to assemble the enclosure, what size bolts to use, and other supplies I may need to purchase. I paid to have all the Plexiglas to be cut to your design and 3d printed all fixtures in PETG. I just need a little help putting the enclosure together.
nice! bought that files and try to let them produce in Germany. One company says they cannot make sheet#7 because they are to small for the machine (the two narrow bars - top left and right) - what are they for ?
Make sure your vendor understands that the dimensions on the DXF drawings are in inches. Those two pieces support the entire top part of the enclosure and are necessary. The drawing calls out that they are 1.38"x24.61" or 35mmx625mm. They are not really small.
@@justinrsmith21Yes I first had to convert files to mm in order to send it to German manufacturers. The one company has a minimum size of 50mm in order to laser the parts, that seems the reason. I will check for another supplier. thanks
superb model and small question do you plan to have the 5 heads for your prusa xl I want to buy it but I'm waiting to see how it goes with the 5 and if I buy it I'll probably buy your plan and thank you for the video😁👍
Very nicely done. Very much like what I was designing in my head. Gives me some ideas to consider. Is the top removable in pieces or does it come off as one big piece? How much does it weigh? (I'm concerned how often and how easily I'd be able to service the printer with top in place.)
Very nice design and implementation! I will probably the plans if my XL ever gets here. What is the size of the largest cut piece of acrylic in your design? I'm wondering if my 400x600mm laser can cut all the acrylic pieces.
Does your BOM happen to link all hardware parts to McMaster or a supplier in the USA? If so, do you remember how much the hardware was? Has anyone else sourced the acrylic from a USA supplier yet? I think this enclosure still looks the best out of what is currently available. Another designer just worked with someone on AliExpress to source the acrylic and hardware for convenience. I think your design is cleaner!
Hey thanks, I appreciate your feedback. I designed it in a way that there is not a lot of printed parts. The other enclosures available use way too much filament. Also, they use a much thinner acrylic (3mm) that is not as stiff. As far as the part numbers go for the hardware, yes, I have a BOM with all the McMaster Carr parts. This will give you all the sizes and quantities needed. Purchasing hardware from McMaster Carr is really expensive and gives you way too much that's needed. I would use the BOM to source the hardware from local suppliers or Amazon.
@@justinrsmith21 Thanks for your response. Yes, I know about McMaster as I have bought a lot from them. They have great prices in quantity! I'm just trying to balance time since I run my own business. Prusa's enclosure does not look good at this point. I am going to wait until I receive my machine next week before I do anything. There seems to have been a few production changes in the XL design. For example the WiFi antenna can be location in the back instead of the side.
@@goldfingerdash Mine has the Wifi antenna on the side. I'm pretty sure the enclosure won't hit the antenna if it's located on the back, but it may need to be turned sideways.
@@justinrsmith21 I just purchased your design. Your BOM is missing the thermometer part number. It is specific to your design but there is a large hole in the acrylic. Can you provide the part number or link to the thermometer on Amazon?
Here’s the link from Amazon Veanic 4-Pack Mini Hygrometer Thermometer Fahrenheit or Celsius Meter Digital LCD Monitor Indoor Room Round Humidity Temperature Gauge for Humidors Home Greenhouse Babyroom Reptile Incubator a.co/d/1CYroCn
The enclosure reached an internal temperature (near the top of the tool) of 59C when printing ABS (Nozzle-255C Bed-105C). I did change the setting to heat the entire bed.
Looks great! Was thinking of designing something similar whenever mine arrives -- maybe using gas springs to allow the top + front to pivot upwards. Although would require the frame to be fixed down to the table/stand or whatever it's on... will probably have to build a table (or repurpose one from Ikea) since it's pretty large. Maybe I missed it, but did you cut out the acrylic yourself or use a service like SendCutSend?
@@Thomasr20de I understand that they could make the panels but they wouldn’t be able to sell them. A normal vendor(cnc, laser, 3d print) can make parts for anyone but if the design is licensed for non-commercial use, they can’t just make as many as they want and sell them.
@@justinrsmith21That's true in isolation but if they approached you, as the copyright holder you could choose to separately license the design to them under a commercial license for a fee. That would be entirely up to you and isn't readily accessible if they don't approach you first, but it is possible.
That looks great. I want to do something similar, because my 2-head XL is ordered. How did you manage to cut that acrylic? It looks perfect! Also may I know after you finalized the order how many days did it take for Prusa to start the shipping? Like 5 days?
I laser cut the parts from 4 pieces of 24"x36" acrylic. The laser produces very nice finished parts. Once I finalized my order and paid the balance, it was sent out the next day. Unfortunately it was stuck in customs for a day but I received it less than 5 days.
I have access to a laser cutter so I’m not sure how much another vendor would charge. The price I paid was for 4 sheets of 1/4” thick 24”x36”. This is the largest size sheet that can fit in the laser bed.
@@justinrsmith21 you want to contain in printer. Keep from getting to your room. Good to have purifier in machine like nevermore or bento box on printables
ABS is likely, but with at the very least a basic enclosure (one YT channel, the guy used a $4 shower curtain). though with that solution, the temp of the room your XL is in will matter. For PC, I really think you will want a heated enclosure. I run a print farm (13 MK3S+ and a couple MK4), I mostly print Polycarbonate (and some PC-CF). So I created a heated enclosure system for each of them, which also means I reprinted EVERY part of each printer in PC and PC-CF (depending on mechanical req). Also redid all cables with drag chains, and added a RPI running Octoprint with a camera. I then manage them all with a dedicated RPI that runs OctoFarm. Most of PC and PC-CF comes right off the printer seconds after it finishes and goes into annealing ovens to destress (kinda like annealing with metal), depending on the finish requirements, I also have an Industrial Tumbler and will run some production runs through the tumbler with my custom abrasive mix (this removes most supports and all but removes layer lines, though PC-CF is pretty darn near injection molded looking when it comes out of the annealing ovens). PC has a really high Tc for 300*C polymer and when you anneal it, you can squeeze a little more heat resistance out of it. Problem comes if you are doing longer parts without a heated enclosure, it is very hard to keep PC down on the edges (maybe that is a MK3S+ and MK4 heat bed issue towards the edges). Brims and drafts are required usually as well. Depending on the part design and its orientation. It is possible that with the 16 zone heat bed of the XL combines with a draft collar (and at least a make shift enclosure like the shower curtain), that you could have good results with PC for a good number of your parts. It really depends on a lot of variables to make some of these comments. Hope that helps
Prusa does not care about their customers, that’s why. It’s also why the Prusa XL prints slow and and inconsistent, they released it to public without fully testing it. They’re almost as bad as Flashforge by making sure their printers don’t print at the advertised speeds. 😅
@@Bromo_Sexual "Prusa does not care about their customers" Is that why they just released input shaping for their 4 year old prusa mini? Sound like they care enough to continue supporting their older printers. Also input shaping is on it's way for the XL. They don't have to continue supporting their older printers you know. They could just discontinue them like bambu lab and other china companies. I remember when bambu lab released their printer to the public without fully testing it. Why they had so many QC problems.
Enclosure looks super nice on the sides but that roof is just ridiculous, this is not your fault but the Prusa XL is just a stupid design IMO. Prusa is like buying a horse back when cars were invented. Or getting a Nokia when the Iphone came.
How would you design a large toolchanger? The only other one vaguely similar (the E3D one) has a similar design as far as a top enclosure would be concerned (if it had one).
@@nightcrayonThere's 2 issues at play that could be improved to decrease the roof height: 1) The XL appears to use longer than necessary umbilicals. Compare against say a Ratrig which has a first party enclosure option with a smaller roof (still sizeable, mind) despite having a similar or larger print area 2) The designer chose to make this with a longer than necessary angled roof. The umbilicals don't need to fully clear the roof, if they bump up against it slightly that's not a big deal. This wouldn't change the size much though The other thing is that it looks a bit weird because most CoreXY printers enclose the entire sides, whereas the design of the XL means that the side panels don't extend back as far as the full frame. That's only really an aesthetic problem though, it doesn't change the performance of the enclosure.
I'm just working with what I've got. It's not ideal, but it does the job. Yeah, the umbilicals could have been shorter, or they could have incorporated a drag chain somehow. I just made the enclosure big enough that I don't have to worry about interference at all or potential wear/scuffing on the printers components or the enclosure itself.
@@justinrsmith21 You misunderstood, you did an excellent job, enclosure looks awesome. You did what you could and the stuff that I don't like are not something you can control. If I look at the Bambu, Creality K1's or the Voron it's pretty easy to see the future of 3d printing and pretty easy to see that Prusa belongs in the previous decade. I especially like the voron 2.4 toolchanger that I linked to earlier as it adds no more space, enclosure or not, toolchanger or not it's all the same.
Awesome, my XL arrived today - being an owner with 3x cats, as soon as I saw your design I bought it! - Will post updates!
Hope you enjoy it!
Wow this looks really really nice. I was looking for ideas for when my 5 head shows up. This is certainly the nicest I have seen. Good work.
Thank you! 😊
That’s awesome! Good job bro. Very inspiring. I love my MK4 and want an XL too
Thanks!!
That is really cool, great work. Going to have to do this to mine.
You should!
Hi Justin, your enclosure looks very nice. Do you plan on releasing the files? I could not find any CAD models of the XL to create the drawings for the 3d printed parts and acrylic sheets. Thanks alot.
Files can be downloaded here:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/prusa-xl-enclosure-custom-jussin5150
Hi. Smith. I love your design
Thanks!
The enclosure reached an internal temperature (near the top of the tool) of 59C when printing ABS (Nozzle-255C Bed-105C). I did change the setting to heat the entire bed.
Files can be downloaded here:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/prusa-xl-enclosure-custom-jussin5150
Question, the 3D printed parts are zero problem at all. I do have the XTool P2 55 watt CO2 laser with the extension bed. So I can technically laser cut clear acrylic (upto 20mm in one pass) that is about 26" x 39" (can expand to up to 3m) using the automatic conveyor feeder I got with the all-in-1 bundle. Where is the best place to get larger sheets of 1/4" acrylic or would you recommend polycarbonate instead? I was hoping there is a place that has 2' x 4' so I can use the laser to break it down to smaller pieces. But if I were to get a 4'x8' sheet I would need to process it down into pieces no wider than the 26" working width. Curious what technique you would recommend for cutting the bigger sheets down to more usable size for my laser.
I look forward to building this enclosure, thanks for all the work it must have taken to put together the downloadables, the video, the website, the graphics, and everything that goes with this. $20 seems like a steal really.
@@Hangs4Fun I bought a 48x96 sheet from a company called regal plastics for $190 and they cut it into 4 pieces of 24x36 for $35. Your CO2 laser probably could cut polycarbonate but it might make some nasty gasses.
@@justinrsmith21Thanks. I use both the HEPA filter system and 6" accelerator exhaust helper to pull out fumes outside of my shop. I like the idea of buying a full 4x8 sheet in 1/4" and having it cut by them into 4 pieces of 24x48. I can handle more than 39" (without upgrading the extension), but to actually cut more than 39" I would have to do indexing. Upgrading it to the 3meter long, would let me work with 26" by 3 meter long and could cut, etch, engrave the whole length. So I like the idea of having stock of 24x48 and will be fine sticking within 26x39 for a majority of what I do. The extra 9" will just be extra that I could feed in as I consume the whole piece.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
thanks for this design Justin, fabulous to see.
Did you need to add any extra heating to get the internal temperature upto 59C?
looks great, nice job, ive ordered a 5 head, which i’m waiting for.
Thanks.
Did it arrive yet?
@@randomlysatisfying6064 no, probably late April or may.
Nice enclosure. Thank you for sharing. I will make a similar one. I will bend the acrilyc to use fewer connecting pieces and thus improve the view. Waiting for dual and five head ordered 19 november 2021. Belgium.
I wanted to have bent acrylic also but I don’t have the tools to make it.
very interesting idea with the bending of the acrylic. How would one bend 1/4" acrylic (with heat?). I do have a 36" wide metal break from HarborFreight. If you don't mind sharing, what would be the process?
pretty nice job man. I want one of those Prusa XL's!
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Air scrubber would be a nice addition. Just circulate the air through hepa and carbon using a computer fan. ABS really lets of some fumes. I made one for my mk3. Just stuck it on top and put a hood over the whole thing. Now i have the XL, no hood, no filter.
I made a video of the air scrubber inside the enclosure. Did you see that one? ruclips.net/video/QbZzVOlk4Rc/видео.html
Very nicely done! I hope to get my XL by the first of next year and this will be high on my priority list. It shouldn't be a big effort to add a filtration system as Prusa did with their MK3 enclosure.
Thanks. I've really enjoyed using mine.
This is brilliant.
Thanks. I have enjoyed it.
Amazing effort! Such a great deal for an awful amount of work, paid for the download and printed all the parts. Now to count out all the part numbers from the STEP file and find the Australian equivalents 😅
Thank you very much!
How did it turn out? This design is great. It would be nice to have this as a kit excluding the 3d printed parts, naturally.
@@HobbyFinn2 really good! I used nuts instead of heatserts and made a few changes to the printed parts, and also used 4.5mm acrylic instead of 6, but it works great and really keeps the heat in.
Where did you get / cut the acrylics?
Well done. As an option, the top door could be split and open to the sides 270 degrees.
That is true...
In the UK i can only get the acrylic in mm so the closest i can get is 6mm where 1/4 inch would be 6.35mm, other than the length of the hardware do you think it would cause any issues? I wouldn't have thought so but thought it is best to check. Thanks.
6mm thick acrylic will be fine.
@@justinrsmith21 Oh brilliant thanks, just finding somewhere to cut the acrylic now.
Very elegant.
Thank you
Hey, I would like to buy the model for your Prusa XL housing.
Is there a materials list of what I need?
Can you tell me the overall dimensions for the entire printer with structure?
Nice !! Do You have got any problems witth ABS printing ?
I'm waiting for my roll of ABS filament to test. But, I have printed with Polymaker PC-ABS filament, which has very similar filament settings (nozzle temp 270C and bed 105C). The internal temperature of the enclosure (at the lid) when it was printing was about 39C (102F).
Very nice!
Thanks for the visit.
Do you have the build plans for this? I'd love to do the same!
Files can be downloaded here:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/prusa-xl-enclosure-custom-jussin5150
@@justinrsmith21 thank you so much 🥳
@justinsmith841 any chance you can design this using a 10x18x5.5 thrust bearing ?...its much easier to source compared to the 2mm thick version. (and much cheaper) edit...after looking at the thrust washer some more, I realized its not a needle bearing, just an impregnated washer...I think a machine washer will work just fine...from the looks of it it just keeps the two printed pieces of plastic from rubbing on each other.
If you buy an enclosure thru Pursa they send you a bunch of stuff you have to change on the printer besides adding the enclosure to get it ready or optimized for high heat operations. You make those changes or you just added the enclosure and called it quits?
Yeah, I didn't replace any other parts.
@@justinrsmith21 Thanks for that tidbit. I like your case better than the Pursa one. Thanks for sharing.
Nice!
Thanks!
Do you have any instructions telling me how to assemble the enclosure, what size bolts to use, and other supplies I may need to purchase. I paid to have all the Plexiglas to be cut to your design and 3d printed all fixtures in PETG. I just need a little help putting the enclosure together.
There is a bill of materials in the files. This lists all the hardware necessary.
I saw the bill of material file but I was looking for instructions for putting this kit together either written or a youtube video
@@GaryHines-zc6vxyou can use the card file to see how all the parts go together. It’s pretty straightforward.
nice! bought that files and try to let them produce in Germany. One company says they cannot make sheet#7 because they are to small for the machine
(the two narrow bars - top left and right) - what are they for ?
Make sure your vendor understands that the dimensions on the DXF drawings are in inches. Those two pieces support the entire top part of the enclosure and are necessary. The drawing calls out that they are 1.38"x24.61" or 35mmx625mm. They are not really small.
@@justinrsmith21Yes I first had to convert files to mm in order to send it to German manufacturers. The one company has a minimum size of 50mm in order to laser the parts, that seems the reason. I will check for another supplier. thanks
superb model and small question do you plan to have the 5 heads for your prusa xl I want to buy it but I'm waiting to see how it goes with the 5 and if I buy it I'll probably buy your plan and thank you for the video😁👍
Thanks. I’m not sure if I plan on buying more heads for the printer. I’m probably just gonna stick with the two for now.
Very nicely done. Very much like what I was designing in my head. Gives me some ideas to consider. Is the top removable in pieces or does it come off as one big piece? How much does it weigh? (I'm concerned how often and how easily I'd be able to service the printer with top in place.)
Thanks. Yeah, the top enclosure comes off in one piece. It weights about8 pounds. It's pretty easy to remove and install.
Very nice design and implementation! I will probably the plans if my XL ever gets here. What is the size of the largest cut piece of acrylic in your design? I'm wondering if my 400x600mm laser can cut all the acrylic pieces.
The largest part (top side panels) is 691.35mm X 473.35mm
Looks nice!
Do you notice any extra vibrations?
No, it’s pretty solid.
Does your BOM happen to link all hardware parts to McMaster or a supplier in the USA? If so, do you remember how much the hardware was?
Has anyone else sourced the acrylic from a USA supplier yet?
I think this enclosure still looks the best out of what is currently available. Another designer just worked with someone on AliExpress to source the acrylic and hardware for convenience. I think your design is cleaner!
Hey thanks, I appreciate your feedback. I designed it in a way that there is not a lot of printed parts. The other enclosures available use way too much filament. Also, they use a much thinner acrylic (3mm) that is not as stiff. As far as the part numbers go for the hardware, yes, I have a BOM with all the McMaster Carr parts. This will give you all the sizes and quantities needed. Purchasing hardware from McMaster Carr is really expensive and gives you way too much that's needed. I would use the BOM to source the hardware from local suppliers or Amazon.
@@justinrsmith21 Thanks for your response. Yes, I know about McMaster as I have bought a lot from them. They have great prices in quantity! I'm just trying to balance time since I run my own business. Prusa's enclosure does not look good at this point.
I am going to wait until I receive my machine next week before I do anything. There seems to have been a few production changes in the XL design. For example the WiFi antenna can be location in the back instead of the side.
@@goldfingerdash Mine has the Wifi antenna on the side. I'm pretty sure the enclosure won't hit the antenna if it's located on the back, but it may need to be turned sideways.
@@justinrsmith21 I just purchased your design. Your BOM is missing the thermometer part number. It is specific to your design but there is a large hole in the acrylic. Can you provide the part number or link to the thermometer on Amazon?
Here’s the link from Amazon
Veanic 4-Pack Mini Hygrometer Thermometer Fahrenheit or Celsius Meter Digital LCD Monitor Indoor Room Round Humidity Temperature Gauge for Humidors Home Greenhouse Babyroom Reptile Incubator a.co/d/1CYroCn
What filament drier are you using and can you recommend it? How high in temp does it go?
The Eibos CYCLOPES. I don't think this version is still available but it works okay. I set the temp to 50C.
try using sunlu s4 - is my best dryer and ist not exprsnive makes 4 spools dry at same time
Where does one get the acrylic cut? I live in Europe.
You can probably find a local laser cutter that can source the acrylic and cut it out for you.
What filament dryer are you using in this video?
Eibos CYCLOPES 3D Printer Filament Dryer Box
What kind of temps are you maintaining in the enclosure?
The enclosure reached an internal temperature (near the top of the tool) of 59C when printing ABS (Nozzle-255C Bed-105C). I did change the setting to heat the entire bed.
Looks great! Was thinking of designing something similar whenever mine arrives -- maybe using gas springs to allow the top + front to pivot upwards. Although would require the frame to be fixed down to the table/stand or whatever it's on... will probably have to build a table (or repurpose one from Ikea) since it's pretty large. Maybe I missed it, but did you cut out the acrylic yourself or use a service like SendCutSend?
Yeah, I have access to a large laser cutter and I cut out all the parts myself.
nice
Thanks
Nice work. I wonder if Printed Solid could make the precut Acrylic sheets like they do for the Prusa Lack V1 and V2 enclosures?
Unfortunately, the design is not for commercial use. But, you can have a laser cut vendor make the panels.
Essentially that's what Printed Solid is offering... laser cut panels. They would just need the template/layout.@@justinrsmith21
@@Thomasr20de I understand that they could make the panels but they wouldn’t be able to sell them. A normal vendor(cnc, laser, 3d print) can make parts for anyone but if the design is licensed for non-commercial use, they can’t just make as many as they want and sell them.
@@justinrsmith21That's true in isolation but if they approached you, as the copyright holder you could choose to separately license the design to them under a commercial license for a fee. That would be entirely up to you and isn't readily accessible if they don't approach you first, but it is possible.
@@bosstowndynamics5488 Yeah, I understand that possibility. Thanks.
That looks great. I want to do something similar, because my 2-head XL is ordered.
How did you manage to cut that acrylic? It looks perfect!
Also may I know after you finalized the order how many days did it take for Prusa to start the shipping? Like 5 days?
I laser cut the parts from 4 pieces of 24"x36" acrylic. The laser produces very nice finished parts. Once I finalized my order and paid the balance, it was sent out the next day. Unfortunately it was stuck in customs for a day but I received it less than 5 days.
Very nice!!! Waiting on my XL. Would you provide the files for the parts and acrylic you cut/printed? I have a CO2 laser and 3D printer to replicate.
@@VegasMadMikey Yes please tell me that you're gonna share the files somewhere, it would be extremely useful!
Files can be downloaded here:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/prusa-xl-enclosure-custom-jussin5150
@@justinrsmith21Thanks!!! Just purchased!!
Whoever decided to release this as an unenclosed printer should be FIRED! 😅
Most likely they decided to sell it independently in the future.
$200 for just the acrylic? How much to get them laser cut?
I have access to a laser cutter so I’m not sure how much another vendor would charge. The price I paid was for 4 sheets of 1/4” thick 24”x36”. This is the largest size sheet that can fit in the laser bed.
Close the back if you print abs or asa to contain fumes.
I thought about that. I do have an air purifier right next to the printer. I'll see how well that works.
@@justinrsmith21 you want to contain in printer. Keep from getting to your room. Good to have purifier in machine like nevermore or bento box on printables
Which Filament dryer do u use?
I have the Eibos 3D CYCLOPES. I'm not 100% convinced that it's necessary, but I like that my filament is protected in the box.
Can this print PC and ABS?
I haven't tried PC but ABS prints well.
ABS is likely, but with at the very least a basic enclosure (one YT channel, the guy used a $4 shower curtain). though with that solution, the temp of the room your XL is in will matter. For PC, I really think you will want a heated enclosure. I run a print farm (13 MK3S+ and a couple MK4), I mostly print Polycarbonate (and some PC-CF). So I created a heated enclosure system for each of them, which also means I reprinted EVERY part of each printer in PC and PC-CF (depending on mechanical req). Also redid all cables with drag chains, and added a RPI running Octoprint with a camera. I then manage them all with a dedicated RPI that runs OctoFarm. Most of PC and PC-CF comes right off the printer seconds after it finishes and goes into annealing ovens to destress (kinda like annealing with metal), depending on the finish requirements, I also have an Industrial Tumbler and will run some production runs through the tumbler with my custom abrasive mix (this removes most supports and all but removes layer lines, though PC-CF is pretty darn near injection molded looking when it comes out of the annealing ovens). PC has a really high Tc for 300*C polymer and when you anneal it, you can squeeze a little more heat resistance out of it. Problem comes if you are doing longer parts without a heated enclosure, it is very hard to keep PC down on the edges (maybe that is a MK3S+ and MK4 heat bed issue towards the edges). Brims and drafts are required usually as well. Depending on the part design and its orientation.
It is possible that with the 16 zone heat bed of the XL combines with a draft collar (and at least a make shift enclosure like the shower curtain), that you could have good results with PC for a good number of your parts. It really depends on a lot of variables to make some of these comments.
Hope that helps
Utterly bonkers why prusa thinks it's ok to ship such an expensive printer without an enclosure.
I'm sure they will design one and at an additional cost.
Prusa does not care about their customers, that’s why. It’s also why the Prusa XL prints slow and and inconsistent, they released it to public without fully testing it. They’re almost as bad as Flashforge by making sure their printers don’t print at the advertised speeds. 😅
@@Bromo_Sexual "Prusa does not care about their customers"
Is that why they just released input shaping for their 4 year old prusa mini? Sound like they care enough to continue supporting their older printers. Also input shaping is on it's way for the XL. They don't have to continue supporting their older printers you know. They could just discontinue them like bambu lab and other china companies. I remember when bambu lab released their printer to the public without fully testing it. Why they had so many QC problems.
@@LilApe it took Prusa company *4 YEARS* to give their customers a software update LOL! You just proved my point.
@@Bromo_Sexual there have been like 30 fw updates for the mini over those 4 years.
Enclosure looks super nice on the sides but that roof is just ridiculous, this is not your fault but the Prusa XL is just a stupid design IMO. Prusa is like buying a horse back when cars were invented. Or getting a Nokia when the Iphone came.
How would you design a large toolchanger? The only other one vaguely similar (the E3D one) has a similar design as far as a top enclosure would be concerned (if it had one).
@@nightcrayonThere's 2 issues at play that could be improved to decrease the roof height:
1) The XL appears to use longer than necessary umbilicals. Compare against say a Ratrig which has a first party enclosure option with a smaller roof (still sizeable, mind) despite having a similar or larger print area
2) The designer chose to make this with a longer than necessary angled roof. The umbilicals don't need to fully clear the roof, if they bump up against it slightly that's not a big deal. This wouldn't change the size much though
The other thing is that it looks a bit weird because most CoreXY printers enclose the entire sides, whereas the design of the XL means that the side panels don't extend back as far as the full frame. That's only really an aesthetic problem though, it doesn't change the performance of the enclosure.
@@nightcrayon ruclips.net/video/S-om0MPE5qI/видео.html
I'm just working with what I've got. It's not ideal, but it does the job. Yeah, the umbilicals could have been shorter, or they could have incorporated a drag chain somehow. I just made the enclosure big enough that I don't have to worry about interference at all or potential wear/scuffing on the printers components or the enclosure itself.
@@justinrsmith21 You misunderstood, you did an excellent job, enclosure looks awesome. You did what you could and the stuff that I don't like are not something you can control. If I look at the Bambu, Creality K1's or the Voron it's pretty easy to see the future of 3d printing and pretty easy to see that Prusa belongs in the previous decade. I especially like the voron 2.4 toolchanger that I linked to earlier as it adds no more space, enclosure or not, toolchanger or not it's all the same.