I think i figured out what is the point of the wedging mechanism. The problem it tries to solve is to adjust for the wear of the clutch friction plate. As clutch plate wears it gets thinner which makes the metal "sun" plates of the clutch release stick out more towards the gearbox when engaging the clutch (friction plate squeezed) and thus making the clutch fork travel more towards actuator so there is a need to allow for the free retraction of the actuator pin when its "hiding" inside the case. On the other side when clutch is disengaged (while shifting) no play is allowed as the pin needs to press on the fork. This mechanism allows for that making it possible to squeeze, but only when fully retracted. The moment the plastic is moved out the wedging mechanism goes into play which makes squeezing no longer possible. That is very clever and I really admire the engineers for coming up with this idea.
when you cranked your actuator back against the spring... what stopped it going pushing back again? I am in a similar problem. i powered up the actuator up while disconnected and it has pushed the arm forward and will not come back.
If that spring releases by accident, it cracks the casing. If a gearbox is removed and the clutch actuator has not been put in its safe position, it cannot be safely removed. You hear a click and the casing is cracked
I can't recall exactly. In my car there was a plastic case inside the spare wheel (lower the spare wheel from underneath the rear of the car), this contained the jack. I think the wheel spanner was inside a compartment in the drop -down tail gate????
I think i figured out what is the point of the wedging mechanism. The problem it tries to solve is to adjust for the wear of the clutch friction plate. As clutch plate wears it gets thinner which makes the metal "sun" plates of the clutch release stick out more towards the gearbox when engaging the clutch (friction plate squeezed) and thus making the clutch fork travel more towards actuator so there is a need to allow for the free retraction of the actuator pin when its "hiding" inside the case. On the other side when clutch is disengaged (while shifting) no play is allowed as the pin needs to press on the fork. This mechanism allows for that making it possible to squeeze, but only when fully retracted. The moment the plastic is moved out the wedging mechanism goes into play which makes squeezing no longer possible. That is very clever and I really admire the engineers for coming up with this idea.
Agreed. Clever.
Hi so do you have to program the actuator once you replace it? Can you do it without scan tool.
I need this video to complete please
when you cranked your actuator back against the spring... what stopped it going pushing back again? I am in a similar problem. i powered up the actuator up while disconnected and it has pushed the arm forward and will not come back.
If that spring releases by accident, it cracks the casing. If a gearbox is removed and the clutch actuator has not been put in its safe position, it cannot be safely removed. You hear a click and the casing is cracked
hello, what is the measure of the pencil that goes from the actuator to the transmission. thanks
Hi l have a Citroen c2 2009 reg. and do you know where’s the tyre kit&tools places in car?thankyou
I can't recall exactly. In my car there was a plastic case inside the spare wheel (lower the spare wheel from underneath the rear of the car), this contained the jack. I think the wheel spanner was inside a compartment in the drop -down tail gate????
Важно смазывать нижнюю фиолетовую пружину, направляющую, и упор тк именно там появляется основной износ и актуатор издает противный звук кря
Смазывают не пружину, а упоры пружины с обеих концов. Удобнее разобрать её и смазать.