Thanks, I learnt something. I just now replaced my MF 135 original diff crown and pinion.... Hoping the wheel bearings and seals are ok. Good job Jerry. Good luck with the rest of your project.
Thank you for the video. I'll watch anymore you have on your project cause I'm working on a 135 just like yours. You mentioned your steering powering one way but not the other...same issue I have, along with a wheel bearing issue on the right rear. I would like to know if you've figured out the steering yet.
No. I have put it on hold for now. I sent the wheels out to get powder coated. They are supposed to be ready this week. Once I get tires on it I am going to drive it around to see if it will work itself out. The steering was working before I took it down. I suspect the control valve is the issue. I may have also shimmed the column to much when I put it back together. Bundy bears shed on you tube has a video series on this tractor. he has better video on the axle bearings. If yours has the locking diff. Make sure the pedal is tied down with the diff lock engaged before pulling the axle.
Thanks Jerry, I hope this is not too difficult!!?? I'm wondering DIY or paying for the job? I understand it very well and love the mechanical side of it, your thoughts for 2 cents?
It wasn't terribly difficult to do. I do have access to a large press that made getting the bearings off easy. The speedy sleeve takes some finesse to install as it can be damaged easily and is expensive. Check out bundy bears shed on RUclips. He shows other ways on how to do this job. If yours has the locking differential, make sure it is locked in before pulling the axle.
I mentioned in the video regarding the lock ring that you will need a oxy/ acetylene torch to get it hot enough to get it to drop over the shaft. Lance shows that in his video.
Yes this is the US version. It Is the same for the UK version. Check out bundy bears shed on RUclips. He restores the UK version. There are some minor differences with the sheet metal and power steering between the two.
The race is in the way on the cover. It may be possible to tap the flange where the bolts come thru the housing. It would also need a drain hole,or else the cavity would fill up with grease and push thru the seals.
Thanks, I learnt something.
I just now replaced my MF 135 original diff crown and pinion.... Hoping the wheel bearings and seals are ok.
Good job Jerry.
Good luck with the rest of your project.
Check out bundy bears shed on you tube. He goes more in depth on his 135 restoration. He covers it all.
Thank you for the video. I'll watch anymore you have on your project cause I'm working on a 135 just like yours. You mentioned your steering powering one way but not the other...same issue I have, along with a wheel bearing issue on the right rear. I would like to know if you've figured out the steering yet.
No. I have put it on hold for now. I sent the wheels out to get powder coated. They are supposed to be ready this week. Once I get tires on it I am going to drive it around to see if it will work itself out. The steering was working before I took it down. I suspect the control valve is the issue. I may have also shimmed the column to much when I put it back together.
Bundy bears shed on you tube has a video series on this tractor. he has better video on the axle bearings. If yours has the locking diff. Make sure the pedal is tied down with the diff lock engaged before pulling the axle.
Thanks Jerry, I hope this is not too difficult!!?? I'm wondering DIY or paying for the job? I understand it very well and love the mechanical side of it, your thoughts for 2 cents?
It wasn't terribly difficult to do. I do have access to a large press that made getting the bearings off easy.
The speedy sleeve takes some finesse to install as it can be damaged easily and is expensive.
Check out bundy bears shed on RUclips. He shows other ways on how to do this job.
If yours has the locking differential, make sure it is locked in before pulling the axle.
@@jerrymoore7669 I'll take that for a thumbs up for DIY, rewatch yours and Bundy videos again. Will keep you posted!! Thank you Jerry!
I mentioned in the video regarding the lock ring that you will need a oxy/ acetylene torch to get it hot enough to get it to drop over the shaft. Lance shows that in his video.
Is that the US version or UK, would the rear axle repair be the same for both, do you know? I have a UK with a leaky seal.
Yes this is the US version. It Is the same for the UK version. Check out bundy bears shed on RUclips. He restores the UK version. There are some minor differences with the sheet metal and power steering between the two.
Could yoou have drilled and tapped flange for a zerk fitting, or outside race in the way?
The race is in the way on the cover. It may be possible to tap the flange where the bolts come thru the housing. It would also need a drain hole,or else the cavity would fill up with grease and push thru the seals.
Hi Jerry, did you make a plate so that you could press apart the carrier from the axle?
I used a large bearing separator and a 55 ton press I had at work. It came right off.