Cracking video Steve, I hope more people watch and listen. I concur about JBA, it worked for me until complacancy (Blight resistant variety) and a busy schedule combined thatr I left it longer than the recommended 7 days between sprays. If I remember correctly JBA works by a certain essential oil that combined with a surfactant (a soap) coat the leaves in a film that physically denies access for the spores. However the leaf grows fracturing the coating and allowing the spores in and therefore the need for reapplicationn Edit also important to coat the underside of the leaves. Essential oils works in the same manner to destroy thrips and other micro beasts .... but which essetial oil! There are loads! Years ago I was a keen Fuchsia man and a thrip pest called Fuchsia Gall Mite was ruining the hobby, but a company made a spray that really worked, until the company went bust, I started using the oils myself and did start making progress, but realised I had better things to do with my life!
Oh wow, never realised you were a fuchsia man (I always have to check my spelling of that word LOL). My Dad was fuchsia addict, and we would quite often drive for miles on a Sunday afternoon to visit some tiny nursery somewhere there were many as I recall) for him just to find one "he liked". How long ago, well it was in a Hillman Super Minx so work that out! Love how you explained the JBA action so I will pin this for those interested, cheer Mike!
Hi Steve i definitely need to check my sspc after this rajn, i will check on Thursday. I added sulphur and a bit of copper to the soil mix so hopefully they'll be ok.🤞😄👍🥔
Interesting that Steve thanks for the video. I didn't get a single bit of Blight on my Tomatoes this year, i think that might be because i didn't grow any🤣 Have a good week mate. Barry (Wirral)
It works for me Duncan. I was hoping to go to the plot today to get some comparison photos of the plots with blight but it is pouring down, typical LOL
That was a good video, i'll recommend it to anyone who needs to learn the basics. The RHS blight page has an interesting note on LB existing in soil. Worth a read just for interest.
I assume you mean this bit as I mostly covered the rest (I think LOL) - "The oospores are released from the rotting tissues to contaminate the soil. These resting spores have yet to be found in the UK, but analysis of the recent genetic variations in blight strains occurring on potato crops in some parts of the UK suggests that they could be being produced. "
@@DigwellGreenfingers That's the one. I wonder how old the article is and if things have moved on since then, but yes it's a bit worrying how it's evolving and could possibly get into the soil. Unsure how accurate their information is, especially "There are currently no fungicides available for use by gardeners against blight." Er, actually, there are.....
@@lksf9820 I know! What is a bit worrying is how fast all pest and disease problems are moving along at an alarming rate and the cures are lagging behind due to the very prolonged testing periods. Yes, I know we need to be safe etc but look at the UK sugar beet industry. Environmentalists campaigning to stop using neonicotinoids because of harm to bees BUT it is only being used under the strictest rules ever imposed by DEFRA. Yes, it harms bees but only those at the field (vast fields) margins as it is not used when the beet is flowering! The same people would just as readily complain about transporting all of our sugar as an import! You can't have you cake and eat it!
I can remember watching I think Victorian Farm and they sprayed something on all the potato plants. Yes what you mentioned the blue spray. Very informative as always Steve, thank you, Ali 🌦️🇨🇦
Both the recipe and ingredients are widely available via Google. I would like to know more about the damage to what's in the soil and to us though as i've used it this year. The implication is that copper is a heavy metal therefore stays wherever it ends up and further doses add to it.
@lksf9820 It was banned (wrongly or rightly - greenwashing again?) because of a *fear* of copper build up in the soil and its toxic effect on waterways. As usual, some scientific reports say it does not build up in the soil while some say it does. Most that say it does also state that *there is a possibility it does or potential that it could* - no proof. Its use is controlled, but not forbidden in most of the European Union (and the rest of the world). Widely used in France on vineyards. The water argument is moot IMHO as everything we put onto our soil is damaging to the waterways, even organic fertilisers. This is why it is a case of "everything in moderation" Ironically, other copper based fungicides are sold in garden centres etc amzn.to/3zu64vpamzn.to/4ezm5z2
Had blight outdoor tomatoes, I was a bit lax in my pruning, placed them too close as well. Will be remedying that next year! And the the blight guard. Cheers ✊🍅
So far, the only thing I've had on my tomatoes is the occasional spot of white mildew, which I got rid of simply by snipping off the affected leaves. A couple of leaves turned yellow / brown but none of them had those "blighty" spots. I did get massive amounts of mildew on pumpkins and sunflowers (despite both being in full sun and in a very windy place), and the commercial fungicide I tried (from a brand called Compo) did absolutely nothing. But eventually I found that spraying them at sunset with a solution of 1% neem oil and 0.25% potassium soap (the rest being water) got the mildew under control in a couple of days. Haven't had to spray the tomato plants yet; the mildew seems to progress much slower (and the plant regrows really fast).
Good news so far then! Personally I would not bother treating powdery mildew, other than removing the affected leaves. It seldom harms a plant, in fact many sources suggest that it helps the plant because the mildew only attacks the older weaker leaves that are past their best thereby forcing new growth. I looked at my squashes the other day. Old leaves all white but the new leaves un affected. Give it a try on one plant, you may be surprised.
@@DigwellGreenfingers - On Japanese pumpkins (uchiki kuri) and sunflowers it spreads like mad and kills leaves faster than they grow back. I tried leaving it and about 2/3rds of my pumpkins eventually ran out of leaves. On tomatoes it seems to spread pretty slowly, despite the leaves being naturally wetter than either the pumpkins or the sunflowers.
@@RFC3514 Like everything gardening, it is different for everyone LOL Do be careful with the neem oil though, some not very nice reports about its side effects popping up in the last few years. Have a great week!
i presume you realise a load of gardeners have no idea how to change the ph of the compost. sulphur works wonders. with tomatos, if your fruit is low down on the plant you can always cut the leaves back by 50%..............brian
This is the problem with places stopping selling peat composts, which tended to be blow pH7! I feel another info video coming LOL I have cut them back, as usual, Brian. I was just showing how it may not be as easy with some vines and on determinate varieties.
@@DigwellGreenfingers Tnat might be a masssive factor I had early blight around the 10th of June on my tatties and the earliest and the compost is maybe a factor.
Great video, however could you translate into beginners language, I mean not Wikipedia terms. Make in in easy terms. You have great knowledge and learn from your videos. Beginners like me may get confused!
In its simplest terms; 2 types of blight, early and late. Early seldom a problem in the UK, late devastating. Both caused by spores that are in the air which land on damp foliage and if it is warm enough (over 10°C 50°F) they start their damage. Hope this helps, have a great week
Cracking video Steve, I hope more people watch and listen. I concur about JBA, it worked for me until complacancy (Blight resistant variety) and a busy schedule combined thatr I left it longer than the recommended 7 days between sprays. If I remember correctly JBA works by a certain essential oil that combined with a surfactant (a soap) coat the leaves in a film that physically denies access for the spores. However the leaf grows fracturing the coating and allowing the spores in and therefore the need for reapplicationn Edit also important to coat the underside of the leaves. Essential oils works in the same manner to destroy thrips and other micro beasts .... but which essetial oil! There are loads! Years ago I was a keen Fuchsia man and a thrip pest called Fuchsia Gall Mite was ruining the hobby, but a company made a spray that really worked, until the company went bust, I started using the oils myself and did start making progress, but realised I had better things to do with my life!
Oh wow, never realised you were a fuchsia man (I always have to check my spelling of that word LOL). My Dad was fuchsia addict, and we would quite often drive for miles on a Sunday afternoon to visit some tiny nursery somewhere there were many as I recall) for him just to find one "he liked". How long ago, well it was in a Hillman Super Minx so work that out!
Love how you explained the JBA action so I will pin this for those interested, cheer Mike!
I think you covered everything Steve, except the sheet of paper from the rain......😂.
♻️Happy gardening, Terry King.
LOL, that made me chuckle Terry! 😂
@@DigwellGreenfingers 👍❤️❤️❤️❤️😁❤️❤️❤️❤️👍
Hi Steve i definitely need to check my sspc after this rajn, i will check on Thursday. I added sulphur and a bit of copper to the soil mix so hopefully they'll be ok.🤞😄👍🥔
Yes, when the rain stops the blight settles!
Interesting that Steve thanks for the video.
I didn't get a single bit of Blight on my Tomatoes this year, i think that might be because i didn't grow any🤣
Have a good week mate.
Barry (Wirral)
Crikey, you have hit on a 100% prevention method Barry 😂😂
Hahaha you nearly got me there Barry.
Cheers Steve, thank you. Happy gardening 🙂
Very welcome - knowledge is power. Hopefully this will help a few with their problems!
This was an excellent video Master Digwell.
Thank you kindly. I hope it helps a few!
Fantastic video... I've learnt a lot thank you Diggy
My pleasure and I hope it helps you in the future 🙂
Hi Steve, what a brilliant video! Very good advice too. Thanks for sharing and take care 😊
Glad you enjoyed it, Christine. Have a great week
Briliant video Steve
Cheers buddy
Nice one Steve
Cheers Lee, have a good week
Nice. one, very informative!
Thanks so much Robin!
I'll get some Steve, thanks buddy
It works for me Duncan. I was hoping to go to the plot today to get some comparison photos of the plots with blight but it is pouring down, typical LOL
That was a good video, i'll recommend it to anyone who needs to learn the basics.
The RHS blight page has an interesting note on LB existing in soil. Worth a read just for interest.
I did read that but only skimped over it - gonna have another looksee, ta.
I assume you mean this bit as I mostly covered the rest (I think LOL) - "The oospores are released from the rotting tissues to contaminate the soil. These resting spores have yet to be found in the UK, but analysis of the recent genetic variations in blight strains occurring on potato crops in some parts of the UK suggests that they could be being produced. "
@@DigwellGreenfingers That's the one. I wonder how old the article is and if things have moved on since then, but yes it's a bit worrying how it's evolving and could possibly get into the soil. Unsure how accurate their information is, especially "There are currently no fungicides available for use by gardeners against blight." Er, actually, there are.....
@@lksf9820 I know! What is a bit worrying is how fast all pest and disease problems are moving along at an alarming rate and the cures are lagging behind due to the very prolonged testing periods. Yes, I know we need to be safe etc but look at the UK sugar beet industry. Environmentalists campaigning to stop using neonicotinoids because of harm to bees BUT it is only being used under the strictest rules ever imposed by DEFRA. Yes, it harms bees but only those at the field (vast fields) margins as it is not used when the beet is flowering! The same people would just as readily complain about transporting all of our sugar as an import! You can't have you cake and eat it!
Blight here in Northern AZ can be a real killer! Thanks for the lesson! Take care.
A nasty disease!
@@DigwellGreenfingersyeah, blight here is a killer! Time for us to get our winter starts going for cold crops.
I can remember watching I think Victorian Farm and they sprayed something on all the potato plants. Yes what you mentioned the blue spray. Very informative as always Steve, thank you, Ali 🌦️🇨🇦
If you need it, there is a slight possibility (cough cough) that I may, just may, be able to put my hands on the recipe LOL
@@DigwellGreenfingers 🤣 thank you I’ll keep that under my hat 🎩. So far so good here no real big issues with blight
@@myrustygarden Best kept secret 🤣
Both the recipe and ingredients are widely available via Google. I would like to know more about the damage to what's in the soil and to us though as i've used it this year. The implication is that copper is a heavy metal therefore stays wherever it ends up and further doses add to it.
@lksf9820 It was banned (wrongly or rightly - greenwashing again?) because of a *fear* of copper build up in the soil and its toxic effect on waterways. As usual, some scientific reports say it does not build up in the soil while some say it does. Most that say it does also state that *there is a possibility it does or potential that it could* - no proof.
Its use is controlled, but not forbidden in most of the European Union (and the rest of the world). Widely used in France on vineyards.
The water argument is moot IMHO as everything we put onto our soil is damaging to the waterways, even organic fertilisers. This is why it is a case of "everything in moderation"
Ironically, other copper based fungicides are sold in garden centres etc amzn.to/3zu64vpamzn.to/4ezm5z2
Had blight outdoor tomatoes, I was a bit lax in my pruning, placed them too close as well. Will be remedying that next year! And the the blight guard. Cheers ✊🍅
Oh no! Fingers crossed for next year buddy
So far, the only thing I've had on my tomatoes is the occasional spot of white mildew, which I got rid of simply by snipping off the affected leaves. A couple of leaves turned yellow / brown but none of them had those "blighty" spots.
I did get massive amounts of mildew on pumpkins and sunflowers (despite both being in full sun and in a very windy place), and the commercial fungicide I tried (from a brand called Compo) did absolutely nothing. But eventually I found that spraying them at sunset with a solution of 1% neem oil and 0.25% potassium soap (the rest being water) got the mildew under control in a couple of days. Haven't had to spray the tomato plants yet; the mildew seems to progress much slower (and the plant regrows really fast).
Good news so far then!
Personally I would not bother treating powdery mildew, other than removing the affected leaves. It seldom harms a plant, in fact many sources suggest that it helps the plant because the mildew only attacks the older weaker leaves that are past their best thereby forcing new growth. I looked at my squashes the other day. Old leaves all white but the new leaves un affected. Give it a try on one plant, you may be surprised.
@@DigwellGreenfingers - On Japanese pumpkins (uchiki kuri) and sunflowers it spreads like mad and kills leaves faster than they grow back. I tried leaving it and about 2/3rds of my pumpkins eventually ran out of leaves.
On tomatoes it seems to spread pretty slowly, despite the leaves being naturally wetter than either the pumpkins or the sunflowers.
@@RFC3514 Like everything gardening, it is different for everyone LOL
Do be careful with the neem oil though, some not very nice reports about its side effects popping up in the last few years.
Have a great week!
i presume you realise a load of gardeners have no idea how to change the ph of the compost. sulphur works wonders. with tomatos, if your fruit is low down on the plant you can always cut the leaves back by 50%..............brian
This is the problem with places stopping selling peat composts, which tended to be blow pH7!
I feel another info video coming LOL
I have cut them back, as usual, Brian. I was just showing how it may not be as easy with some vines and on determinate varieties.
@@DigwellGreenfingers Tnat might be a masssive factor I had early blight around the 10th of June on my tatties and the earliest and the compost is maybe a factor.
I've not got blight yet, although I haven't looked at them for a week and it's rained lots, however I did use a lot of sulphur.😄👍👌
@@nickthegardener.1120 Yes, it's after the rain stops that blight is an issue.
The potatos in my compost bins are the onley ones that weren't affected 😂
Brilliant!
Any natural cures for blight as I hate using chemicals,???
No cure but as a preventative the JBA Blight Guard is a 100% natural product
amzn.to/4doP8og
No, but have you actually watched the video?
No cures for blight but as a preventative JBA Blight Guard is 100% natural amzn.to/3zr4ISg
Great video, however could you translate into beginners language, I mean not Wikipedia terms. Make in in easy terms. You have great knowledge and learn from your videos. Beginners like me may get confused!
In its simplest terms; 2 types of blight, early and late. Early seldom a problem in the UK, late devastating. Both caused by spores that are in the air which land on damp foliage and if it is warm enough (over 10°C 50°F) they start their damage.
Hope this helps, have a great week
That was basic, if you can't understand it then you've got to question why.
You can smell Blight
I'll have to try that, cheers. I guess it's like a rotten potato smell memory, once whiffed never forgotten!