Super easy way to fix a broken SpaceX Starlink cable the right way with a minimal amount of experience, time, and cost! This PSA video teaches you how to repair broken proprietary Gen2 Starlink cables and discusses the method of building your own Gen1 Starlink replacement cables. Ethernet Junction Box - amzn.to/3RzTiQA Punch Down Tool - amzn.to/3jvSO1A Wire Stripping Tool - amzn.to/3jARw5i Green Waterproof Enclosure - amzn.to/3DLIRE5 Black Waterproof Enclosure - amzn.to/3RJoj4L I hope you find this helpful or at least entertaining. If you want to help the channel, click the THANK YOU button or even better become a member of the channel. For more Starlink coverage subscribe and watch my entire PlayList at: ruclips.net/p/PLUrdf7hvHC2KXLQg3HIi8keQOIdxcheS7 BTW: This is the VPN service that I use and if you're interested in securing your family or business data while being more anonymous while on the web, check out this service, and don't forget to include a "Static-IP" and "Port Forwarding" to your order. Cheaper than a Starbucks latte a month! jcristina.com/vpn PureVPN + port forwarding + dedicated IP • 2-year deal for $3.45/month (74% OFF) • 5-year deal for $2.57/month (82% OFF) jcristina.com/vpn Thank you for supporting the channel! For business relations, contact me at 📧 jcristina.com/contact Highlighted Starlink Hardware I Have Tested In The Past: Ubiquiti amzn.to/3qC554s NetGate amzn.to/3cXiTTv Peplink amzn.to/3OnTsHM UTT Router amzn.to/3nJBLaL TP-link Router #1 amzn.to/3IjkyhP TP-link Router #2 amzn.to/3c8gOUq TrendNET Router #1 amzn.to/3nVukx0 TrendNET Router #2 amzn.to/3IGxvm2 Small Battery Backup For Starlink - amzn.to/3ScbcrZ TP-link AC Router - amzn.to/3so07J1 TP-link AX Router - amzn.to/3sf2or8 TP-link Managed Switch: amzn.to/3EQJKZy TP-link Unmanaged Switch: amzn.to/3FVbaih TP-link Outdoor Access Point - amzn.to/3uqDYfP TP-link Indoor Access Point - amzn.to/3rV6Nzk TP-link Control Module (100Mbps) - amzn.to/3Lduaf3 TP-link Control Module (Gigabit) - amzn.to/3rVBqEx For High-Speed Access Points (ex. Starlink or Cable) TP-Link Control Module (Gigabit) - amzn.to/3rVBqEx TP-Link AC1900 - amzn.to/3Q28y6N For Slower Speed Access Points (ex. ATT) TP-Link Control Module (100Mbps) - amzn.to/3Lduaf3 TP-Link AC1200 - amzn.to/3OLhlsK If you would like to get a FREE copy of the Prologue to "How To Create A Digital Fort Knox - Backing Up Your Digital Life" or one of my other FREE books, simply visit jcristina.com/books Consider subscribing to the channel, commenting below, and signing up for my newsletter at jcristina.com/join Interested in any products that I personally use? Visit www.amazon.com/shop/jcristina or go to the bottom of this description for direct links. [ Channel Membership ] If you enjoy my content consider becoming a member by hitting the JOIN button below and becoming a member! For business relations, contact me at 📧 jcristina.com/contact Check out my 🆓 FREE eBook over at jcristina.com/ebook [ Media Contact Business Relations ] 📧 eMail - jcristina.com/contact [ Free Giveaways & Promos ] 📦 20% Off everything jcristina.com - Subscribe & use Promo Code YT20 🆓 FREE eBook jcristina.com/ebook - 10 Tips To Making Tack Sharp Images [ Social Media & Additional Connections ] 🌒 Dark Moon Teas DarkMoonTeas.com 🎬 RUclips - ruclips.net/user/jcristina 🔖 Twitter - twitter.com/JosephCristina 👀 Instagram - instagram.com/JosephCristina 👨💼 LinkedIn - www.linkedin.com/in/josephcristina 📖 Facebook - facebook.com/joseph.cristina 📰 Creative Discord Server - community.jcristina.com The above are my Amazon affiliate links - if you purchase anything using the links above, you're supporting this channel at no additional cost to you! Thank You for your support!
Hey Joseph, just going back over some of your previous vids as I'm being pushed (email you responded to) to Starlink V2 because of an issue they found with my V1dish. Unfortunately, I need about 90ft of cable from the dish to my TE closet at the house, but my only option was 150ft of cable. For a static cable repair, you are spot on with the Cat 5/6/7/8 junction box.... but... you need a longer length of drain wire and a longer piece of copper (or any conductive) tape. You need to be sure you wrap the drain wire with the tape so that some of the drain wire is in contact with the side of the tape that has NO adhesive, then wrap again with the conductive tape so the adhesive side of the upper wrap holds the bare copper of the lower wrap in firm contact with the drain wire. Or there are newer junction boxes that have 5 slot punch-down blocks in each quadrant so you can run drain wire into a "ground" punch down slot as well. Ideally, you could do both.
I did this kind of work for 30 years and I approve of this splice. Make sure you turn the punch-down tool so you trim the wire instead of cut it off. Had an employee that did that all the time and I had to go behind him and fix 100's of connections.
I found your video cause I accidentally messed up my cable for my gen 2. This is a much easier and affordable fix. Just the junction box is so much cheaper than a new Starlink cable. Just ordered the stuff to fix my cable cause of this video.
Nice work mate. I have been a data cabler for 30yrs and this is the best way. Never crimp your own modular plugs for Cat5E or Cat 6 then use a joiner. They never test out properly.
Did IT for 37 years. Nice work, nice methods. Totally. Was in MX when I had to cut my cable and run it through my boat deck... couldn’t get the proper RJ45 connector you had and it turned into a bizarre ritual of soldering, heat shrinking foil wrapping, and electrical taping. It all worked out, but I’d have barked and done rollies to have a junction box available. 😂
I've had a broken Starlink cable for the past couple months, that I rely on for providing Internet to my RV when I'm remote. I haven't found a way to fix it in a way that (i) I'm confident I can do, and (ii) seems like it's going to work robustly. Your video really helped explain the concepts in an easy to understand way. I'm eager to give the repair a shot this weekend! Thank you so much.
This is perfect timing for me, I was thinking of shortening my Gen 1 cable. Where I have it now, there’s like 60ft of extra cable. Now just need the materials and time…
Judging by the dozens of people I've seen on Reddit reporting that their cable was run over by a lawnmower, I'd say that plenty of folks could benefit from this tutorial. That said, I have wonder if someone who spends $700+ on a piece of equipment then leaves the connecting cable just laying around in the grass might be a bit beyond any kind of help!! LOL
Appreciate the info, I was debating HOW to get that cable inside the house since I do not want to open wholes in the house but I already have conduit installed when the house was built. Of course, the construction people put 1/2 " conduit and I could not run the 'head' of the starlink thru it, now, I am just going to CUT the cable, feed it thru and put the junction box inside the house. Thanks
ONE NOTE: When using the rotor tool, as you call it, to strip the outer layer, you have to be vary careful not to let the blade slice or compromise one of the wires. This doesn't usually happen on Cat5e, but can easily happen with Cat6e as the wires thicker and closer to the blade. One slight slice of the wire and it might appear to be fine, but after a few movements, it can easily separate. This is why most installers will use the rip cord to rid down an additional 2 inches after the initial strip and use electrician scissors or cut off the peeled back jacketing. I've had to lengthen the Starlink cable out in the field (no time to order a longer cable) and had to do it the other way, though I just stripped back way more of the cable and snipped the paired wires shorter than the drain lines so that the drain lines could directly twist together and not have to be extended, DUH =-) yes that article was a joke, but it does work. I now carry the box you showed in my truck, but haven't had an occasion to use it yet. Love the channel
110% agree.. I speak about this in my cable building video but in this one it was more general.. Luckily most of these tools provide 4 different sized openings to make sure as to not cut into the wire below the sheathing.
For those who may be wondering, the statement here is correct, as long as both ends of the cable are the same standard (A or B), it doesn't matter. It also doesn't matter which of the 2 standards was used for the device the cable subsequently plugs into. The cable can be B and the socket can be wired A and it will work just fine. It only matters that each end of any single cable matches the other end of that cable.
Thank you so much for this video. We spliced two cables to get dishy to an unobstructed area and this worked perfectly! Looking forward to going through your other videos for more tips & tricks! ❤
I’ve had to do multiple Starlink wire repairs for the absolute best outcome it’s best to solder wires. I’ve seen multiple issues with just putting a standard RJ 45 end on it
Thank you for exposing the cable construction. My Starlink is still waiting to clear Customs, but I anticipate receiving it in the next week or so. I've been concerned because every exterior outdoor cable entering my equipment room goes through a surge suppression device (SPD), whether it's 50 or 75-ohm coax or CAT cable (all my exterior CAT is STP so it has the foil or braided shield and drain wire.) Allowing the Starlink cable to enter unprotected has been concerning me. Now I see that I can break the cable, install STP connectors on it, and run it through my RJ-45 CAT-6 SPD.
I like the shielded coupler that you have here. However, if that can't be found, a minor modification of the PCMag method will work also. Instead of the unshielded jacks, use shielded RJ-45 jacks on each end of the cable and plug them into a shielded plugin coupler. The shielding does need to be maintained and their way of doing it was sloppy and doesn't maintain the shielding at the junction.
That is a really nice setup, I might just get one with the tools in case I ever need to do this lol Hell, I might use this for getting the wire through the wall without putting that big hole.
I appreciate your Starlink information very much. I find your content insightful and well worth my time. PLEASE continue your tech content. (I know nothing of photography). Thanks!
During our recent Dishy relocation we managed to drop the router end of the proprietary cable on the concrete from like 10' up. It messed up the end. Instead of buying entire new 75' cable we bought the ethernet adapter just for the end. Fwiw. $25 vs like $80. Splliced cables similar to first method but soldered and heat shrank shield wire. It does sorta wanna unplug, so may swap to this j box down the road.
Great use case and yes, the J Box makes for a permanent connection that is a bit easier for people then learning to solder and heat shrink or plastic coat the splice for sure! Thanks Chris for adding to the conversation.
Nicely done, much better splice than that mess! I ordered a bag of shielded RJ45 ends and 2 RJ45 Cat6 shielded waterproof (IP67) couplers for an emergency. I probably should order an extra cable as backup.
awesome video been playing around with fixing or making my own ends for years and I have never seen this. I am total armature and this video just blew my mind :) Thanks for the information keep the great videos coming !
The difference between cat5 and cat6 is bandwidth.. also what your referring to as burial grade is actually called armored in the industry. None of the cabling you exampled is armored cabling. The plastic piece in the cat6 cabling is used to make the cabling rigid while running through buildings, its referred to as plenum rated cabling in the industry. The shielding or foil on the cat6a is for reduction of cross talk for longer distance of higher bandwidth, up to 10gb at 325ft. The cables are not higher or lower "grade" because of the ridged back bone. They also are not different awg on the pairs from one another. The increase in bandwidth comes from the twists per inch, which is why that cabling is also commonly referred to as twisted pair. Also cat6 and cat6a are not lower or high grades then one another they both have specific use cases.
Thanks for the video. My issue is actually the USB like connector that broke. Is it possible to replace that, by a connector like that, or I have to get a new cable ?
I have an RV and I want to cut the cable and put a port on the RV so I can just plug the cable from the dish into the outside of the RV. The other end of the cable would go from that port to the router. What would you suggest to use for the port to plug into
Yes it would but the router is rated to push the signal 150ft. You could Gove it a shot to see if their is any additional S&R / signal loss. Check latency.
I think I ruined my Starlink cable by forgetting to unplug the router while I plugged my cable into the dish. So I think my cable has damaged end at the dish and I’d like to fix it and have a cable to take with me for camping, but leave my replacement cable installed through my attic to the roof mounted dish location. Any advice on how to get a replacement cable end? I think I have the 2nd generation dish.
My opinion due to the lack wiring diagrams you are most likely going to throw the star link cable away and go in and reterminate the jacks, on the dish to so you can use a level 3 POE switch to handle all your poe based internet and phone services.. with a lot external media/antenna (boosters) for wimax/5g/4g/air fiber the question needs to be asked what non standard poe are you dealing with star link and any other service medium you are servicing in your provider stack of hardware.. the external case becomes the ground in poe cable
Cable that isn't rated for outdoor use will deteriorate in the sun. Also, if it's not rated for direct burial and you bury it, you may have problems with water getting into the cable.
This could potentially cause interference as SL uses non standard wire pin out. But probably not. Having too much untwisted wire before the connector would cause more. And to be clear I'm talking about the article at the start 😂. I think the Ethernet adapter cable is higher quality than the 75ft SL cable as well. Most teardowns I've seen show it to just be bog standard outdoor rated cat5e. I'm not going to tear mine apart though until somethings wrong with it 😅. **Edit** I'm wrong it has a shield but no plastic spline or ground drain wire. So it's either cat5e or 6/6a they make both with that same spec but the wires are thinner gauge in cat5e.
Great video. Question - could you do a video showing how to run Starlink without the Starlink router? Basically, converting the Starlink cable to an RJ45 type connector, using a POE injector, and running direct into your home router / network from dishy? (not using the Starlink ethernet adapter). Thanks
My Cable is fine now, but I will definitely look up this video if I have a problem. I wonder if you or other folks had the problem I've had with Starlink. I live in Flagstaff, AZ, and my POP is in Denver, CO. So now my location is always listed as being in Denver. I get ads and political spam from Denver when on streaming services and email on all my devices. When I go to websites looking for services in my area I am always directed to the Denver area. It's not something I can't live with, but it is inconvenient! The only other POP available is LA which is about the same distance from me. Have you any suggestions? I am reluctant to bring this up to Starlink tech support because all my previous episodes with them have resulted in long delays getting back to me and then only with useless boilerplate emails. I have managed to solve speed and connectivity problems I've had by watching your channel (Thanks!)
Looks good, BUT what if I need to run my cable through a small hole in a concrete wall? The odd shaped connector at the router end prevents me from passing the cable through the wall, so I cut it and pass through the wall, THEN connect re-connect the cable ends as you explain. But I have need to take my system on the road so the quick-connect connectors seem better for me. Whats your suggestion?
Clemente .Sardini Italy . Hi, Shall i ask you wheather is it possible to add a telephone ,just like the one we normaly use at home? Your enser wold really be appreciated. thanyou so much.
I did not know there was two ways to terminate a CAT cable! Why? Is one way ISO/metric and the other way English units/Inchich? Is B better then A? I always learn something new from your videos! 😆😆😆
🤔🤔 There are two standards because they were developed by different organizations at different times. 586A was introduced by the Electronic Industries Association (EIA), while the 586B standard was later developed by the Telecommunications Industry Association (TIA). Bottom-line.. No matter which you use as long as your consistent, all is copasetic.
@@jcristina Interesting and it had to do with backward compatibility to older system, not so relevant today. The government specifies 586A and 586B is for the rest of us!😵💫😵💫😵💫
@@arnecarlsson9740 So there are still times you need to use 586A but it does not have to do with one being the right or wrong way for today's standard network cables. This is a little techie but here goes. Where it does matter is when a manufacturer (one example would be in the video industry) makes a transmitter and receiver to extend HDMI signal over a long distance. The reason that 568A would be required is because the 4 pairs of wire in a data cable are twisted at different twists per foot making the pairs different lengths. The more twits the longer the cable is over the same distance. In demanding or critical situations the timing in which data is received would be off and could cause a failure in communication between the two devices. The failure would only happen if manufacturer used 568A in product development (which some do) and you used a 568B cable or vise versa.
Nice tips. Any idea if the high performance flat dish cable is the same cat6? It comes with a short 26' cable that's too short and I need to extend it..
I have a conundrum, I am trying to tap into my ethernet cable from the outside of my house, which was installed by the builder and he does not have shielding or a ground wire. Will I have to fish in new wire through the house to match the Starlink cable ?
A "NEXTDOOR" neighbor had their gen 2 cable eaten through by a squirl on their tree top mount. They figured they didn't need conduit because squirls don't eat cable - except all the times they have done so to the DSL provider. So they did a normal electrical splice and taped it up and put it in conduit. Now that it's intermittent, they are blaming Starlink and the over heating of the cable problem and asking for a free cable from SL. They argue that the splice is just fine, even though the problem started with the squirl incident. I told them to order a cable or fix it right but they prefer to wait for the potential free one. It's hard for companies to get profitable with people like this taking advantage and clogging up the CS system with stupid stuff.
Hey J how are you, I’ve just purchased a Starlink dish and I have a problem getting the cable inside my house, bc my walls are of solid brick, I’ve saw some videos were they just pull out the plug from the dish, I’ve tried this but it’s to strong and don’t want to mess it up, Do you know if theres a proper way to unplug it from the dish. Btw my cable was already plug into the dish when I received it. Thanks.
i have a broken cable but the broken part is the end that plugs into dishy. i left it outside unprotected and plugged into the router and when it rained it got water in it disintegrated a few pins by electrolysis... my equipment is all fine and dandy but my wallet suffered some casualties. i forgot to unplug it and wont be making that mistake again since its been permanently mounted now.
Hoping you can answer a question I need to cut the cable on my high performance dishy cable ( the massive ends won’t fit through my wire run ) is gen 2 cable the same cable used for the high performance dishy ( the flat mount new one )
So what you're telling me is......I COULD cut my original 75 ft. Cable that was provided, roll out some burial cat 6 however long I want with the two ends connected?? That would work?
Hi, I was trying to chat with you last night but my connection was too slow. I was wondering if you could share some insight on Starlink outages more specifically the Starlink offline issue many people have been having. Here’s my story, we purchased Starlink two years ago, it was the gen 1 round dish that worked fine until the router was dropped and Starlink replaced the whole system at no charge to us, when the replacement system came in (gen 2) there was a loose part rattling around in the dish so Starlink sent another replacement system (now we are on out 3rd system) at the beginning of March 2024 it failed during the middle of the night(no storms were in the area) never to recover despite all the troubleshooting with Starlink, two weeks later now March 15th I receive another new system and put it into service, yesterday April 19th our Starlink dropped out again and will not return to service despite all the troubleshooting I’ve done based on my experience, same issue as last month and usually there’s a buzzing sound coming from the dish but it is silent now, this is my 4th system in two years and it’s looking like this one it toast too. Are you hearing this from other people?? I can’t be the only one. I’m so frustrated with Starlink.
I might try this for my high performance starlink cable, but not because I have a bad cable, I have to constantly reseat my cable connections to fix my connect and disconnect issues, after I play around with reseating both ends for awhile its usually good for a week to a month, before I have to do it again. Not sure if others have this problem as well but it is really annoying, changing the entire cable would be a huge task since it is secured down on my rv roof with eternabond tape and a cable entry plate covered with dicor. since I'm just jiggling around the connectors at both ends of the cable I'm assuming the cable itself is good. Maybe the connectors for the high performance dish are not very good? disappointing to have all these issues for a dish that costs me $2500, hoping you will comment on this with your opinion.
by the way I forgot to mention, was planning on buying a new high performance cable just so I can cut the ends off in order to try new ends for my cable.
I need to cut and add some RJ45 connectors on the ends to connect to an RV. The connectors come in 2 sizes, 23 and 24 awg, What size wire on the starlink cable? Thanks
I have a starlink that i haven’t used in years that was repaired by a dude that supposedly did this work. He repaired it like the other guy did you showed in the magazine but he never connected the drain or maybe even the ground line. It worked at the time but I stopped service back in summer of 2021. Been trying to get it back up and running but I’ve moved to another state. I changed the address and all the info but it said it needed to update. Go figure. I try to set it up and now it’s telling me the cord may have issues as there’s a weak connection. I’m going to redo this myself now that I’ve seen how simple it is. What else should I do to get my service up and running again? It’s a gen one round dishy that was part of the beta. Worked flawlessly before and am excited to put it back to use
I have had my snow melt auto setting off for months. Good to know how to fix the cable if it fails ... thanks. There have been several service outages daily lately here with my Starlink. Some 10 seconds or less (network issue) but others up to 30+ seconds. Also there have obstructions that make no sense to me ... a red dot on the visibility screen in a open sky area ... weird. Can an obstruction be an aircraft or helicopter? Or a bird or large crow sitting on my dishy (on top of a 20 foot pole) ? This only started just recently so I am baffled. Comments?
This makes me think... Can we build our own heavy duty cables with heavy duty ends to combat cable damage from the heating feature? Not that I'm going to right now but it might be an option.. some people may just simply want to bury their cable from the dish to their home.
Not ends but you can using this method custom lengths and even add burial cable if you wanted to. Distance is still the distance. 150ft is good. Over that you could introduce additional S&R which will low speed and reliability.
hi I know this is off topic but I'm wondering if you have experienced any problems paying your bill? I normally get a statement about 8 days before mine is due and I pay it the next day about a week before the due day. I havent received my monthly statement and it still says on my account that nothing is due so it wont let me make a payment. I have opened a ticket with customer service along with a follow up comment on that ticket and have heard nothing back. getting a little worried about my service being interrupted.
Hi J, I know this is off subject but I need some help ordering a Starlink system. How can I contact someone at Starlink to help me with an order? Their page does not seem to allow anything but a standard order. Thanks
If you are running windows open a msdos windows and type ping 1.1.1.1 -t if your on a mac open a terminal windows and type ping 1.1.1.1 leave this running. When you see buffering, check to see if your latency (ms) have changed or if you're dropping packets.. If not, if could be a WiFi or internal network issue. Hope that points you in the right direction.
@@jcristina unbelievable 👍 When I was suffering from leukemia in 2002 and 2005 I got my stemcell transplantation in the university hospital there. It’s just 60 kilometers from our home here in Cologne. Whenever you come to Germany, let me know 👍☀️
One more thing: your method to fix the Starlink cable could also be used to bring the cable into the house. Cut it, have a small hole in the wall and reconnect it in the inside with this connector. It’s really simple and these boxes are pretty inexpensive.
Thanks for your great Vids. I was trying to find the vid you talk about at 15:30 - 15:38 to take the router of of the mix but cant find it - do you know the title? My issue is that a 100w is a lot especially being off grid on a battery bank in winter when the PV array doesn't work that well...
Absolutely.. I would so out to solder and then dip into "plastic" but I think this is the easiest for 95% of people out there, Hawk.. Thanks for being here.
@@jcristina ...or... ruclips.net/video/BpLP5WAWGJ4/видео.html or... ruclips.net/video/xZI6TcqCV_M/видео.html this is what i meant. use STP sheilded couplers
You have to make patch cables in your CCNA and their was me and a few others that did it first go. They laughed at me cos it took me ages but theirs didn't work. Anyway, creating patch cables is a complete nightmare. Your way is fool proof. Normally you'd test the cable with your rj45 tester. So messing up the wires could cost you everything as this has POE and the only way to see if it works is to plug it in. In a suing society I'm surprised they did this, especially now there's a weak point in cold areas with heating Dishy. Are rj45's rated for 150watts.
Agree... Super easy to make as long as you know the method.. As for RJ45. Yes, the 23AWG should have not issue pushing 150W but the 28AWG may be the issue.. Not sure to be honest.. Maybe they push even more than 150W? Not sure.
To repair, why not just cut and then solder wire to wire and then cover with a couple of pieces of heat shrink? Not sure the box will keep the water out and the cable lies on the ground
Super easy way to fix a broken SpaceX Starlink cable the right way with a minimal amount of experience, time, and cost!
This PSA video teaches you how to repair broken proprietary Gen2 Starlink cables and discusses the method of building your own Gen1 Starlink replacement cables.
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Hey Joseph, just going back over some of your previous vids as I'm being pushed (email you responded to) to Starlink V2 because of an issue they found with my V1dish. Unfortunately, I need about 90ft of cable from the dish to my TE closet at the house, but my only option was 150ft of cable.
For a static cable repair, you are spot on with the Cat 5/6/7/8 junction box.... but... you need a longer length of drain wire and a longer piece of copper (or any conductive) tape. You need to be sure you wrap the drain wire with the tape so that some of the drain wire is in contact with the side of the tape that has NO adhesive, then wrap again with the conductive tape so the adhesive side of the upper wrap holds the bare copper of the lower wrap in firm contact with the drain wire. Or there are newer junction boxes that have 5 slot punch-down blocks in each quadrant so you can run drain wire into a "ground" punch down slot as well. Ideally, you could do both.
I did this kind of work for 30 years and I approve of this splice.
Make sure you turn the punch-down tool so you trim the wire instead of cut it off. Had an employee that did that all the time and I had to go behind him and fix 100's of connections.
Fantastic TIP!!! Appreciate you...
❤😊 great work and awesome teaching, just a word of encouragement and strength keep up the great work. Oh so many of us thank you 😊
I found your video cause I accidentally messed up my cable for my gen 2. This is a much easier and affordable fix. Just the junction box is so much cheaper than a new Starlink cable. Just ordered the stuff to fix my cable cause of this video.
Nice work mate. I have been a data cabler for 30yrs and this is the best way. Never crimp your own modular plugs for Cat5E or Cat 6 then use a joiner. They never test out properly.
Thanks so much. Truly appreciate it!! Blessings.
Did IT for 37 years. Nice work, nice methods. Totally. Was in MX when I had to cut my cable and run it through my boat deck... couldn’t get the proper RJ45 connector you had and it turned into a bizarre ritual of soldering, heat shrinking foil wrapping, and electrical taping. It all worked out, but I’d have barked and done rollies to have a junction box available. 😂
I bet. Mins instead of hours. 😂
I've had a broken Starlink cable for the past couple months, that I rely on for providing Internet to my RV when I'm remote.
I haven't found a way to fix it in a way that (i) I'm confident I can do, and (ii) seems like it's going to work robustly.
Your video really helped explain the concepts in an easy to understand way.
I'm eager to give the repair a shot this weekend!
Thank you so much.
Love to hear if it worked for you. Blessings and good luck.
@@jcristina works like a charm, got speeds well over 150 mbps on the beach yesterday! Thank you sincerely.
This is what you do when you have a techno mind, and an artistic eye. A sturdy aesthetically pleasing solution. Well done Joseph!
Thanks Homero.. You know with my ADD/OCD I just had to had my spin on this cable repair.
This is perfect timing for me, I was thinking of shortening my Gen 1 cable. Where I have it now, there’s like 60ft of extra cable. Now just need the materials and time…
Judging by the dozens of people I've seen on Reddit reporting that their cable was run over by a lawnmower, I'd say that plenty of folks could benefit from this tutorial.
That said, I have wonder if someone who spends $700+ on a piece of equipment then leaves the connecting cable just laying around in the grass might be a bit beyond any kind of help!! LOL
Point well taken.. We have squirrels that enjoy bite cable right at the unit itself on the roof.. Nothing broke yet, but it's only time. :)
Hey I am Ivana living in Sweden. My dogs chewed starlink cable thanks to you😊😊❤❤
😂
Manage to repair thx to your video👍
Nice fix video, the PC Magazine fix looks like it was what someone had on hand on some random weekend and is just good enough to get it to work.
Very true!
Appreciate the info, I was debating HOW to get that cable inside the house since I do not want to open wholes in the house but I already have conduit installed when the house was built. Of course, the construction people put 1/2 " conduit and I could not run the 'head' of the starlink thru it, now, I am just going to CUT the cable, feed it thru and put the junction box inside the house. Thanks
ONE NOTE: When using the rotor tool, as you call it, to strip the outer layer, you have to be vary careful not to let the blade slice or compromise one of the wires. This doesn't usually happen on Cat5e, but can easily happen with Cat6e as the wires thicker and closer to the blade. One slight slice of the wire and it might appear to be fine, but after a few movements, it can easily separate. This is why most installers will use the rip cord to rid down an additional 2 inches after the initial strip and use electrician scissors or cut off the peeled back jacketing. I've had to lengthen the Starlink cable out in the field (no time to order a longer cable) and had to do it the other way, though I just stripped back way more of the cable and snipped the paired wires shorter than the drain lines so that the drain lines could directly twist together and not have to be extended, DUH =-) yes that article was a joke, but it does work. I now carry the box you showed in my truck, but haven't had an occasion to use it yet.
Love the channel
110% agree.. I speak about this in my cable building video but in this one it was more general.. Luckily most of these tools provide 4 different sized openings to make sure as to not cut into the wire below the sheathing.
Great video. You method, which is the proper method, maintains the shield integrity which is very important.
Very true!🍵👍🏻
Thank you for this! Doggo took a bite of that cord and I was able to repair with ease thanks to your video!
😂 let me know how it goes!
For those who may be wondering, the statement here is correct, as long as both ends of the cable are the same standard (A or B), it doesn't matter. It also doesn't matter which of the 2 standards was used for the device the cable subsequently plugs into. The cable can be B and the socket can be wired A and it will work just fine. It only matters that each end of any single cable matches the other end of that cable.
Thank you so much for this video. We spliced two cables to get dishy to an unobstructed area and this worked perfectly! Looking forward to going through your other videos for more tips & tricks! ❤
Fantastic! So glad it helped! Many blessings!
I’ve had to do multiple Starlink wire repairs for the absolute best outcome it’s best to solder wires. I’ve seen multiple issues with just putting a standard RJ 45 end on it
Absolutely.. Next best thing to teaching people to cut, trim, tin wire and soldier properly and then insulate... Thanks so much Chip! 👍🍵
Ditto on that solder!!!!!
Thank you for exposing the cable construction. My Starlink is still waiting to clear Customs, but I anticipate receiving it in the next week or so.
I've been concerned because every exterior outdoor cable entering my equipment room goes through a surge suppression device (SPD), whether it's 50 or 75-ohm coax or CAT cable (all my exterior CAT is STP so it has the foil or braided shield and drain wire.)
Allowing the Starlink cable to enter unprotected has been concerning me. Now I see that I can break the cable, install STP connectors on it, and run it through my RJ-45 CAT-6 SPD.
🍵👍🏻🍵🍵
Love the idea. Mine unfortunately broke a wire near the over mould where it gets inserted into the dish. 😢 thanks for the videos ❤
Sorry to hear that! Thanks for watching Alex.
I like the shielded coupler that you have here. However, if that can't be found, a minor modification of the PCMag method will work also. Instead of the unshielded jacks, use shielded RJ-45 jacks on each end of the cable and plug them into a shielded plugin coupler. The shielding does need to be maintained and their way of doing it was sloppy and doesn't maintain the shielding at the junction.
Go Team!!! Let's fix something. K.I.S.S. I like it. Thanks
Thanks Tim!! Blessings
A thousand thank you for telling people how to fix their cable 👍👍😎
Thank you for everything Glen.
Just repaired mine after watching this. Cheers 👍👍
simply brilliant. I have a 150ft cable that got chewed by the gardener. I can resurrect it. Maybe use it for another project.
Absolutely and will take you 15-20 minutes.. No worries!
Thanks for this. Saved me a bit of $$ having to order a new starlink cable. 👍
So glad!!! Many blessings!
Thanks! Just bought a set of these to have for when I need to fix a cut.
This is all that I use unless I'm hard soldering wires and then dipping into "plastic" which is very rare.
I've ordered the components to repair my cut cable.
This will save me $100 as opposed to getting a new cable.
Absolutely. I’m so glad you’ve gotten value from my video.
Thank you! I don't need it yet, but picked it up just in case.
Smart John!!
That is a really nice setup, I might just get one with the tools in case I ever need to do this lol
Hell, I might use this for getting the wire through the wall without putting that big hole.
Great use case. Wow! I like it.
Good video, good advice. Really wish it wasn't 16 minutes.
Useful information starts at 8:40.
Remember. This is a VLOG, not a pithy CNN Newscast. Skip around, take what resonates, leave the rest.
I appreciate your Starlink information very much. I find your content insightful and well worth my time. PLEASE continue your tech content. (I know nothing of photography). Thanks!
More to come!
During our recent Dishy relocation we managed to drop the router end of the proprietary cable on the concrete from like 10' up. It messed up the end. Instead of buying entire new 75' cable we bought the ethernet adapter just for the end. Fwiw. $25 vs like $80. Splliced cables similar to first method but soldered and heat shrank shield wire. It does sorta wanna unplug, so may swap to this j box down the road.
Great use case and yes, the J Box makes for a permanent connection that is a bit easier for people then learning to solder and heat shrink or plastic coat the splice for sure! Thanks Chris for adding to the conversation.
Nicely done, much better splice than that mess! I ordered a bag of shielded RJ45 ends and 2 RJ45 Cat6 shielded waterproof (IP67) couplers for an emergency. I probably should order an extra cable as backup.
2 is 1 and 1 is none 😉
awesome video been playing around with fixing or making my own ends for years and I have never seen this. I am total armature and this video just blew my mind :) Thanks for the information keep the great videos coming !
Glad I could help! Thanks for being here!
The difference between cat5 and cat6 is bandwidth.. also what your referring to as burial grade is actually called armored in the industry. None of the cabling you exampled is armored cabling. The plastic piece in the cat6 cabling is used to make the cabling rigid while running through buildings, its referred to as plenum rated cabling in the industry. The shielding or foil on the cat6a is for reduction of cross talk for longer distance of higher bandwidth, up to 10gb at 325ft. The cables are not higher or lower "grade" because of the ridged back bone. They also are not different awg on the pairs from one another. The increase in bandwidth comes from the twists per inch, which is why that cabling is also commonly referred to as twisted pair. Also cat6 and cat6a are not lower or high grades then one another they both have specific use cases.
Thanks for the video. My issue is actually the USB like connector that broke. Is it possible to replace that, by a connector like that, or I have to get a new cable ?
Much better Process !!!!
🍵👍🏻
I have an RV and I want to cut the cable and put a port on the RV so I can just plug the cable from the dish into the outside of the RV. The other end of the cable would go from that port to the router. What would you suggest to use for the port to plug into
looking for same
Excellent solution and video. On the back of that could you join 2 cables together to create a 300 ft cable? Would the system still work?
Yes it would but the router is rated to push the signal 150ft. You could Gove it a shot to see if their is any additional S&R / signal loss. Check latency.
I think I ruined my Starlink cable by forgetting to unplug the router while I plugged my cable into the dish. So I think my cable has damaged end at the dish and I’d like to fix it and have a cable to take with me for camping, but leave my replacement cable installed through my attic to the roof mounted dish location. Any advice on how to get a replacement cable end? I think I have the 2nd generation dish.
Hey! I was told there would be super-glue and duct tape!!
That’s all you need. 🙃
@@jcristina Roger That! 😎
The dish end of cable is perhaps the predominant single point of failure. Elon didn’t make it very human proof.
🍵👍
My opinion due to the lack wiring diagrams you are most likely going to throw the star link cable away and go in and reterminate the jacks, on the dish to so you can use a level 3 POE switch to handle all your poe based internet and phone services..
with a lot external media/antenna (boosters) for wimax/5g/4g/air fiber the question needs to be asked what non standard poe are you dealing with star link and any other service medium you are servicing in your provider stack of hardware..
the external case becomes the ground in poe cable
Cable that isn't rated for outdoor use will deteriorate in the sun. Also, if it's not rated for direct burial and you bury it, you may have problems with water getting into the cable.
This could potentially cause interference as SL uses non standard wire pin out. But probably not. Having too much untwisted wire before the connector would cause more. And to be clear I'm talking about the article at the start 😂.
I think the Ethernet adapter cable is higher quality than the 75ft SL cable as well. Most teardowns I've seen show it to just be bog standard outdoor rated cat5e. I'm not going to tear mine apart though until somethings wrong with it 😅.
**Edit** I'm wrong it has a shield but no plastic spline or ground drain wire. So it's either cat5e or 6/6a they make both with that same spec but the wires are thinner gauge in cat5e.
Great video. Question - could you do a video showing how to run Starlink without the Starlink router? Basically, converting the Starlink cable to an RJ45 type connector, using a POE injector, and running direct into your home router / network from dishy? (not using the Starlink ethernet adapter). Thanks
The router is require but Gen 2 will allow for it to be placed into bypass mode.
My Cable is fine now, but I will definitely look up this video if I have a problem. I wonder if you or other folks had the problem I've had with Starlink. I live in Flagstaff, AZ, and my POP is in Denver, CO. So now my location is always listed as being in Denver. I get ads and political spam from Denver when on streaming services and email on all my devices. When I go to websites looking for services in my area I am always directed to the Denver area. It's not something I can't live with, but it is inconvenient! The only other POP available is LA which is about the same distance from me. Have you any suggestions? I am reluctant to bring this up to Starlink tech support because all my previous episodes with them have resulted in long delays getting back to me and then only with useless boilerplate emails. I have managed to solve speed and connectivity problems I've had by watching your channel (Thanks!)
Sadly. You can not change your POP any longer.
Looks good, BUT what if I need to run my cable through a small hole in a concrete wall? The odd shaped connector at the router end prevents me from passing the cable through the wall, so I cut it and pass through the wall, THEN connect re-connect the cable ends as you explain. But I have need to take my system on the road so the quick-connect connectors seem better for me. Whats your suggestion?
Purchase a short cable from Starlink.com and place it into your “mobile setup bag”
Clemente .Sardini Italy . Hi, Shall i ask you wheather is it possible to add a telephone ,just like the one we normaly use at home? Your enser wold really be appreciated. thanyou so much.
Nice work around from the ethernet cable connection
Thanks for the visit
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful.
My pleasure!
I did not know there was two ways to terminate a CAT cable! Why? Is one way ISO/metric and the other way English units/Inchich? Is B better then A? I always learn something new from your videos! 😆😆😆
🤔🤔 There are two standards because they were developed by different organizations at different times. 586A was introduced by the Electronic Industries Association (EIA), while the 586B standard was later developed by the Telecommunications Industry Association (TIA). Bottom-line.. No matter which you use as long as your consistent, all is copasetic.
@@jcristina Interesting and it had to do with backward compatibility to older system, not so relevant today. The government specifies 586A and 586B is for the rest of us!😵💫😵💫😵💫
@@arnecarlsson9740 So there are still times you need to use 586A but it does not have to do with one being the right or wrong way for today's standard network cables. This is a little techie but here goes. Where it does matter is when a manufacturer (one example would be in the video industry) makes a transmitter and receiver to extend HDMI signal over a long distance. The reason that 568A would be required is because the 4 pairs of wire in a data cable are twisted at different twists per foot making the pairs different lengths. The more twits the longer the cable is over the same distance. In demanding or critical situations the timing in which data is received would be off and could cause a failure in communication between the two devices. The failure would only happen if manufacturer used 568A in product development (which some do) and you used a 568B cable or vise versa.
@@notthatkenny Very interesting, thanks! I presume CAT cables from Amazon and MonoPrice are 586B. This Is completely new for me! 🤔🤔🤔
Nice tips. Any idea if the high performance flat dish cable is the same cat6? It comes with a short 26' cable that's too short and I need to extend it..
Sadly. I’m not sure.
I have a conundrum, I am trying to tap into my ethernet cable from the outside of my house, which was installed by the builder and he does not have shielding or a ground wire. Will I have to fish in new wire through the house to match the Starlink cable ?
Sadly.. Yes.
A "NEXTDOOR" neighbor had their gen 2 cable eaten through by a squirl on their tree top mount. They figured they didn't need conduit because squirls don't eat cable - except all the times they have done so to the DSL provider. So they did a normal electrical splice and taped it up and put it in conduit. Now that it's intermittent, they are blaming Starlink and the over heating of the cable problem and asking for a free cable from SL. They argue that the splice is just fine, even though the problem started with the squirl incident. I told them to order a cable or fix it right but they prefer to wait for the potential free one. It's hard for companies to get profitable with people like this taking advantage and clogging up the CS system with stupid stuff.
😂 that’s good stuff. Thanks Mike for that!!!!
Hey J how are you, I’ve just purchased a Starlink dish and I have a problem getting the cable inside my house, bc my walls are of solid brick, I’ve saw some videos were they just pull out the plug from the dish, I’ve tried this but it’s to strong and don’t want to mess it up, Do you know if theres a proper way to unplug it from the dish. Btw my cable was already plug into the dish when I received it.
Thanks.
The bend in half. I did that and then taped it in that position because pushing it through the wall.
i have a broken cable but the broken part is the end that plugs into dishy.
i left it outside unprotected and plugged into the router and when it rained it got water in it disintegrated a few pins by electrolysis...
my equipment is all fine and dandy but my wallet suffered some casualties. i forgot to unplug it and wont be making that mistake again since its been permanently mounted now.
Ouch!!
Hoping you can answer a question
I need to cut the cable on my high performance dishy cable ( the massive ends won’t fit through my wire run ) is gen 2 cable the same cable used for the high performance dishy ( the flat mount new one )
So what you're telling me is......I COULD cut my original 75 ft. Cable that was provided, roll out some burial cat 6 however long I want with the two ends connected?? That would work?
Hi, I was trying to chat with you last night but my connection was too slow. I was wondering if you could share some insight on Starlink outages more specifically the Starlink offline issue many people have been having. Here’s my story, we purchased Starlink two years ago, it was the gen 1 round dish that worked fine until the router was dropped and Starlink replaced the whole system at no charge to us, when the replacement system came in (gen 2) there was a loose part rattling around in the dish so Starlink sent another replacement system (now we are on out 3rd system) at the beginning of March 2024 it failed during the middle of the night(no storms were in the area) never to recover despite all the troubleshooting with Starlink, two weeks later now March 15th I receive another new system and put it into service, yesterday April 19th our Starlink dropped out again and will not return to service despite all the troubleshooting I’ve done based on my experience, same issue as last month and usually there’s a buzzing sound coming from the dish but it is silent now, this is my 4th system in two years and it’s looking like this one it toast too. Are you hearing this from other people?? I can’t be the only one. I’m so frustrated with Starlink.
Sadly. I feel you got another defective unit. Sounds like a short in the dish. 😢
Very nice video.
Thank you very much!
is there any other option than the punch down tool for proper installation?
Easiest way. I like solder personally. 😉
I might try this for my high performance starlink cable, but not because I have a bad cable, I have to constantly reseat my cable connections to fix my connect and disconnect issues, after I play around with reseating both ends for awhile its usually good for a week to a month, before I have to do it again. Not sure if others have this problem as well but it is really annoying, changing the entire cable would be a huge task since it is secured down on my rv roof with eternabond tape and a cable entry plate covered with dicor. since I'm just jiggling around the connectors at both ends of the cable I'm assuming the cable itself is good. Maybe the connectors for the high performance dish are not very good? disappointing to have all these issues for a dish that costs me $2500, hoping you will comment on this with your opinion.
by the way I forgot to mention, was planning on buying a new high performance cable just so I can cut the ends off in order to try new ends for my cable.
Sweet
lol not quite the feedback I was looking for but is what it is@@jcristina
Ever jus try water proof tape on the connection? Of the dish
I have been searching for hours before I came across this simple fix. Thanks!
Glad I could help
Does Amazon also sell the copper tape that you used in the video?
It comes with it.
Awesome! Thanks for your response😊
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
I need to cut and add some RJ45 connectors on the ends to connect to an RV. The connectors come in 2 sizes, 23 and 24 awg, What size wire on the starlink cable? Thanks
Guessing around 22-24
I have a starlink that i haven’t used in years that was repaired by a dude that supposedly did this work. He repaired it like the other guy did you showed in the magazine but he never connected the drain or maybe even the ground line. It worked at the time but I stopped service back in summer of 2021. Been trying to get it back up and running but I’ve moved to another state. I changed the address and all the info but it said it needed to update. Go figure. I try to set it up and now it’s telling me the cord may have issues as there’s a weak connection. I’m going to redo this myself now that I’ve seen how simple it is. What else should I do to get my service up and running again? It’s a gen one round dishy that was part of the beta. Worked flawlessly before and am excited to put it back to use
Cut the wire and redo it like I showed. If that’s the issue it will work straight away. If not. Back to tech support sadly.
@@jcristina thanks for the advice. Yeah I’m gonna do this first before I start worrying about it not working. Thanks for the helpful video
I have had my snow melt auto setting off for months. Good to know how to fix the cable if it fails ... thanks. There have been several service outages daily lately here with my Starlink. Some 10 seconds or less (network issue) but others up to 30+ seconds. Also there have obstructions that make no sense to me ... a red dot on the visibility screen in a open sky area ... weird. Can an obstruction be an aircraft or helicopter? Or a bird or large crow sitting on my dishy (on top of a 20 foot pole) ? This only started just recently so I am baffled. Comments?
It’s on dish yes, plane flying by no for the most part.
This makes me think... Can we build our own heavy duty cables with heavy duty ends to combat cable damage from the heating feature?
Not that I'm going to right now but it might be an option.. some people may just simply want to bury their cable from the dish to their home.
Not ends but you can using this method custom lengths and even add burial cable if you wanted to. Distance is still the distance. 150ft is good. Over that you could introduce additional S&R which will low speed and reliability.
Canon released two new camera and you are making video on start link?
Yep... I have R50/8 on the calendar. My thoughts are coming soon.
Great video
very nice. thank you.
Thank you too!
hi I know this is off topic but I'm wondering if you have experienced any problems paying your bill? I normally get a statement about 8 days before mine is due and I pay it the next day about a week before the due day. I havent received my monthly statement and it still says on my account that nothing is due so it wont let me make a payment. I have opened a ticket with customer service along with a follow up comment on that ticket and have heard nothing back. getting a little worried about my service being interrupted.
Not in the last 15+ months.. SpaceX takes it auto-magically out of my bank account.
Great video!
Hi J, I know this is off subject but I need some help ordering a Starlink system. How can I contact someone at Starlink to help me with an order? Their page does not seem to allow anything but a standard order. Thanks
Sadly. There is not anyone to contact beside through their support ticketing system! 😔
What online coupler did you use?
Description and pinned comment will have a link
Direct burial….you want to use PE-89 (polyethylene) outside plant (osp cabling)
Thanks Robert!!! Appreciate it.
Quick question.
I live alone have excellent connection speeds. Why when I watch tv and I getting a lot of buffering?
If you are running windows open a msdos windows and type ping 1.1.1.1 -t if your on a mac open a terminal windows and type ping 1.1.1.1 leave this running. When you see buffering, check to see if your latency (ms) have changed or if you're dropping packets.. If not, if could be a WiFi or internal network issue. Hope that points you in the right direction.
@@jcristina thanks Joe I’ll try that. Latency is fair to poor
High ✋✋✋✋✋ Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Have a fantastic day 😘👍
Thank you! You too! I have family in Essen.
@@jcristina unbelievable 👍 When I was suffering from leukemia in 2002 and 2005 I got my stemcell transplantation in the university hospital there. It’s just 60 kilometers from our home here in Cologne. Whenever you come to Germany, let me know 👍☀️
One more thing: your method to fix the Starlink cable could also be used to bring the cable into the house. Cut it, have a small hole in the wall and reconnect it in the inside with this connector. It’s really simple and these boxes are pretty inexpensive.
So what would happen if it’s not grounded? I just need a quick fix till I can replace properly.
Thanks for your great Vids. I was trying to find the vid you talk about at 15:30 - 15:38 to take the router of of the mix but cant find it - do you know the title? My issue is that a 100w is a lot especially being off grid on a battery bank in winter when the PV array doesn't work that well...
You can try doing a by pass of the system and setup a 3rd party router. I do have consults available at jcristina.com/product/1-hour-consultation
Thanks!
Thanks you Carol for supporting the channel.. Truly appreciate your kindness!
One question… you read magazines, I didn’t know there was still such a thing … lol
😝
Thank you. Starlink wants $599 for a new dish.
Yep
They sell replacement cables online. In 75 foot and 150 foot lengths.
Very Kool !!!
🍵👍🏻
What about a connection so you can take it with you. Like an outdoor phone or cable box
That would be a permanent connection.
Thank you!
Is there a specific copper tape that needs to be used?
I put a list in the description. Any quality copper tape should work.
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
And guess what? You can build custom cables of varying lengths now. Thanks!
Shhhh! 😉
there is "another" way of soing it....the rite way! 🔌
Absolutely.. I would so out to solder and then dip into "plastic" but I think this is the easiest for 95% of people out there, Hawk.. Thanks for being here.
@@jcristina ...or... ruclips.net/video/BpLP5WAWGJ4/видео.html
or... ruclips.net/video/xZI6TcqCV_M/видео.html
this is what i meant. use STP sheilded couplers
You have to make patch cables in your CCNA and their was me and a few others that did it first go. They laughed at me cos it took me ages but theirs didn't work. Anyway, creating patch cables is a complete nightmare. Your way is fool proof. Normally you'd test the cable with your rj45 tester. So messing up the wires could cost you everything as this has POE and the only way to see if it works is to plug it in. In a suing society I'm surprised they did this, especially now there's a weak point in cold areas with heating Dishy. Are rj45's rated for 150watts.
Agree... Super easy to make as long as you know the method.. As for RJ45. Yes, the 23AWG should have not issue pushing 150W but the 28AWG may be the issue.. Not sure to be honest.. Maybe they push even more than 150W? Not sure.
To repair, why not just cut and then solder wire to wire and then cover with a couple of pieces of heat shrink? Not sure the box will keep the water out and the cable lies on the ground
Onward to 1 Million subscribers! Ask and you shall receive...
:) from you lips to the Gods ears.. 🍵👍
None of the Amazon links in your description work for me. I get time ouot errors.
Well never mind. They all of a sudden now work. Just a temporary random glitch I guess. Sorry.
I will test them tomorrow. Very strange.
How do you install a star link cable through a wall ? Gen 1 cable.
7/8 to 1 1/8 masonry drill bit.
school is in session..the more we know, the less we rely on them..
Facts. We are all here learning together.
6 of one, half dozen of the other. No reason why they both won’t work if done properly.
Thanks for the long winded, sale-sy video