Amazing difference between figs in pots and in the ground, my grandfather had the fig tree in the ground , in those days nobody had figs in pots and there wasnt all these different types ,it was the fig tree that he got a cutting from friend and stuck it in the ground and that was it, and it produced many figs every year , nice video Lou , great tour.
I love your videos Lou. I am fond.of figs, I really appreciate that you share your precious experience. I was ill months ago, you helped me through your videos to change my mind and to get better...I like very much the rythm of your conversation because I hear that you measure the words you use, the patient work, it helps a lot to understand because figs are a big subject and there's a lot to learn about them. You would have been a very good teacher. Thank you for the marvellous walk through your beautiful garden.
Thank you for your kind words. Yes, the videos do remind me of my teaching days. In deed, I was, actually, a certified teacher before going into business for myself many years ago. I'm guessing that it's not likely that I will lose that characteristic trait anytime soon. Lol! Take care! Lou Monti
I'm glad that your feeling better. Figs are an extremely nutritious food, and hopefully your go forward with plans to grow some for your table. If you do, try to maintain an organic approach whenever possible. Always remember, "Let food be thy medicine and let medicine be thy food"! Good luck! Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 That's how I was teached as a girl. Simple is the best. Not the easiest to teach but the best gift when it's understood...keep on making videos . I am fine and I am a great fan of Lou Monti❤
Mr. Monti, sometimes in life, we take bad advice from well meaning people, but I guess it's how we learn from our mistakes. A few years ago some well intended person gave me advice to pinch my young fig trees to produce more fruit. So I went ahead and pitched all the terminal buds on my young trees. Needless to say that stunted my trees, set them back almost a year. Most of them actually refused to grow for a couple of months. So what you are saying does make a lot of sense, and hits home. Thank you for re-enforcing the subject on pinching. I also agree I believe pinching is overly used on young plants and plants do have a growth cycle that does not like to be interrupted during early stages of growth. Great video!!! GOD bless!
Hi Lou, Love Your videos..... i'm a Jersey guy as well, born and bread living off 8A .... Move to Arizona now for eleven years...It is now July 2, 2020,,,, I have three Brown Turkey's two potted one in the ground... Figs ARE LARGE AS QUARTERS......Waiting for them to ripen
Hi, there! No, I have not, but I'm certain that the birds, at least in my 7-B location, would certainly, soon, learn to ignore it. However, I'll give it a try, since the more the better where birds are concerned. Thanks, and thanks for watching! Lou Monti
Reflective tape? Hanging CDs into the tree is a classic. They reflect the light, and they move and swing in the wind. But at least our city-hardened birds here are not very inpressed in the long term. Last year, they had a nest very close the CD that I had hung into the grape-vine. (But with this nest I had much less damage in the grapes than without the nest. "Don't forage for food around your babys crib...") I don't know if maybe there are regions were the birds are more easiy scared, but for my region (Berlin, Gemany) I can say: there is no passive object that could scare birds permanently. If you want to scare birds away, maybe active devices might work. Maybe... (With "active devices" I mean devices that react actively to the presence of a bird, activated by cameras and computer vision, and aiming with water jets, flashing lights or loud noises.) But even with this I would not be too sure about the efficiency after a prolonged time.
Hey Lou, I've been wondering. What state are you in / what USDA zone. I noticed you wrapped your figs but now you have sea turtles? Should I be wrapping my figs in Tacoma WA? Zone 8b?
No, you do not need to Winter protect (wrap) your fig trees in zone 8-B. Wrapping, or some form of protection becomes necessary in zone 7-A or colder. I have made a number of videos on Winter protection and you are welcome to view them. You will find the answers to all of your questions in them. I have properties in two zones, zones 7-A and 7-B. Thanks for watching, regards from, Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 Sea turtles of Zone 7a and 7b? You must be near maryland because that is odd for me! Good to know growing its still possible in colder climates. I enjoy big trees and dont enjoy keeping them in pots. Just preference. In moving soon to zone 9a and dont think I will have many issues at all. Does leaf mulching only protect the roots of the tree during winter? If so, will the rest of the plant die in a harsher winter and only new shoots will come up next year, or can the root energy travel back up to the branches and resprout buds?
Thank you for sharing your video. I live in Dominican Republic and I've had a very rough time trying to get a fig tree. Most people here have no idea what figs (higos) are. I've seen that they sell dried figs in bags at the supermarkets, can the seeds from dried figs be planted and grow? Another question I have is: What exactly is a breba? Is it not a fig? Why are they called that?
Thank you for your advise, sincerely, but I'm primarily an organic gardener and usually shy away from commercial, chemical, products. I planted that Rose there approximately 26 or 27 years ago and it has been producing beautiful Rose's during all of that time. Last year, after the growing season ended, I neglected to cut it back hard, as is my usual practice with Rose's. Because of the Corona Virus, I was late returning in the Spring and the rose had already begun to grow. Therefore, I decided not to prune it back, a practice beneficial to Rose's, and the results of that neglect are evident and plain to see. In any case, for future consideration, what recommendation would you make, specifically, if I were to decide on a chemical treatment? Thanks again for your advise on this subject! Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 i understand about trying to be organic. i take that into consideration with my food crops. not so much on plants im not eating, isnt much of a point except the exposure. my father never sprayed his roses for 20 years. i started becoming more familiar with fungicides and insecticides so i decided o help him out. my father has said he never saw his roses look so good. regardless of the sprays you need to follow the label and keep up with spraying on time. that usually means every 14 days depending on the spray. your roses look pretty infected for this time of year but im north of you. it would stop the spread if thats of interest. most fungicides only have a back action of 48hours. so no full cure of your existing leafs looking healthy. only the new leafs would be healthy. if you want to know what products well thats a long list. if your looking to spray once and thats it, dont bother. my list of chemicals is on my other computer. im waiting for a monitor. if your still interested i can give a more detailed list next week. i cant remember and spell them all, forgive me lol.i apologies for the long winded response. i dont know what expectations people have. i have a spread sheet to keep track of my spraying and rotations all summer. everyone has to decide for themselves what there comfortable spraying. any off the shelf product isnt going to carry much risk compared to licensed AG products. the public cant buy the bad stuff or some say the good stuff. and last but not least, it really helps to know what disease your trying to prevent with a spray. that is why they develop programs. this seems to be my new area of interest.
Thank you for your detailed response. I am primarily a food gardener, but I am fond of this particular Rose. It was a gift to my wife more than 25 years ago. Here is my plan. Because I'm too busy to start a spraying schedule, now, I plan to cut the rose back very hard when it goes dormant in the Fall. After new growth starts in the Spring, I will be able to begin useful, periodic, spraying of an effective fungicide. Given that strategy, what would be a trusted fungicide to use next season?
@@loumonti10 oh yes thats a good plan. the first spray during bud swelling would be a copper fungicide. save the organic copper octanate for summer use. the higher percentage copper fungicide will destroy any over-wintering disease. it will stick around for a few weeks. after that a systemic would be good. something rainfast like specticide immunox works well. after that you can throw in some oils for aphids. you would want another 2 fungicides to keep in rotation. propiconazole , mancozeb is an option but i dont like the risk factors on that one, daconil same thing, captan is a good protectant. there is Thiomyl but havent used that personally. i used seranade for the veggies and would hit the roses with that. its an organic protectant but pricey. these are some basic options i got off the top of my head. if you can start off on a clean slate you should see better blooms from more leaf energy in the years to come.
@@loumonti10 My mom grows Roses for years, she never uses chemicals. She makes an organic fungicide spray consisting of Baking soda, bleach free dish washing liquid (Seventh generation or Dr. Bonners) soap. Sprays them after a long rainy stretch and always trims off & cleans old leaves and debris left around the Rose bushes (throw away). She also swears by corn meal (polenta) she let's it soak in water over night and then uses that water as a natural fungicide and a root drench as roots can get Gaul. It also treats nail fungus. Great remedy. I've also seen her place like a good handful of corn meal (raw polenta) around the roots when planting she says prevents root disease. Always try to stay away from chemicals some way some how, they always get into the soil and into us! Just wanted to share hope this helps.
Very Cape May vibe.
Amazing difference between figs in pots and in the ground, my grandfather had the fig tree in the ground , in those days nobody had figs in pots and there wasnt all these different types ,it was the fig tree that he got a cutting from friend and stuck it in the ground and that was it, and it produced many figs every year , nice video Lou , great tour.
thats a diamondback terrapin turtle
I love your videos Lou. I am fond.of figs, I really appreciate that you share your precious experience. I was ill months ago, you helped me through your videos to change my mind and to get better...I like very much the rythm of your conversation because I hear that you measure the words you use, the patient work, it helps a lot to understand because figs are a big subject and there's a lot to learn about them. You would have been a very good teacher. Thank you for the marvellous walk through your beautiful garden.
Thank you for your kind words. Yes, the videos do remind me of my teaching days. In deed, I was, actually, a certified teacher before going into business for myself many years ago. I'm guessing that it's not likely that I will lose that characteristic trait anytime soon. Lol! Take care! Lou Monti
I'm glad that your feeling better. Figs are an extremely nutritious food, and hopefully your go forward with plans to grow some for your table. If you do, try to maintain an organic approach whenever possible. Always remember, "Let food be thy medicine and let medicine be thy food"! Good luck! Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 That's how I was teached as a girl. Simple is the best. Not the easiest to teach but the best gift when it's understood...keep on making videos . I am fine and I am a great fan of Lou Monti❤
Mr. Monti, sometimes in life, we take bad advice from well meaning people, but I guess it's how we learn from our mistakes. A few years ago some well intended person gave me advice to pinch my young fig trees to produce more fruit. So I went ahead and pitched all the terminal buds on my young trees. Needless to say that stunted my trees, set them back almost a year. Most of them actually refused to grow for a couple of months. So what you are saying does make a lot of sense, and hits home. Thank you for re-enforcing the subject on pinching. I also agree I believe pinching is overly used on young plants and plants do have a growth cycle that does not like to be interrupted during early stages of growth. Great video!!! GOD bless!
Hi Lou,
Love Your videos..... i'm a Jersey guy as well, born and bread living off 8A .... Move to Arizona now for eleven years...It is now July 2, 2020,,,, I have three Brown Turkey's two potted one in the ground... Figs ARE LARGE AS QUARTERS......Waiting for them to ripen
I am just starting in figs. I just have a twig so far. No pinching the baby. I hope some day I have a tree that looks that good. Wow
Exelent
have you ever tried using that reflective tape or other methods to scare birds away instead of nets? If so, it might even make an interesting video.
Hi, there! No, I have not, but I'm certain that the birds, at least in my 7-B location, would certainly, soon, learn to ignore it. However, I'll give it a try, since the more the better where birds are concerned. Thanks, and thanks for watching! Lou Monti
Reflective tape? Hanging CDs into the tree is a classic. They reflect the light, and they move and swing in the wind. But at least our city-hardened birds here are not very inpressed in the long term. Last year, they had a nest very close the CD that I had hung into the grape-vine. (But with this nest I had much less damage in the grapes than without the nest. "Don't forage for food around your babys crib...")
I don't know if maybe there are regions were the birds are more easiy scared, but for my region (Berlin, Gemany) I can say: there is no passive object that could scare birds permanently. If you want to scare birds away, maybe active devices might work. Maybe...
(With "active devices" I mean devices that react actively to the presence of a bird, activated by cameras and computer vision, and aiming with water jets, flashing lights or loud noises.) But even with this I would not be too sure about the efficiency after a prolonged time.
Amazing cool......!
I think the crab shell is made of chitin (C8H13O5N)n which does not contain calcium. On the other hand, oyster shells contain calcium.
Hey Lou, I've been wondering. What state are you in / what USDA zone. I noticed you wrapped your figs but now you have sea turtles? Should I be wrapping my figs in Tacoma WA? Zone 8b?
No, you do not need to Winter protect (wrap) your fig trees in zone 8-B. Wrapping, or some form of protection becomes necessary in zone 7-A or colder. I have made a number of videos on Winter protection and you are welcome to view them. You will find the answers to all of your questions in them. I have properties in two zones, zones 7-A and 7-B. Thanks for watching, regards from, Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 Sea turtles of Zone 7a and 7b? You must be near maryland because that is odd for me! Good to know growing its still possible in colder climates. I enjoy big trees and dont enjoy keeping them in pots. Just preference. In moving soon to zone 9a and dont think I will have many issues at all. Does leaf mulching only protect the roots of the tree during winter? If so, will the rest of the plant die in a harsher winter and only new shoots will come up next year, or can the root energy travel back up to the branches and resprout buds?
Hey, I'm a little north of you in Kent!
Thank you for sharing your video.
I live in Dominican Republic and I've had a very rough time trying to get a fig tree. Most people here have no idea what figs (higos) are.
I've seen that they sell dried figs in bags at the supermarkets, can the seeds from dried figs be planted and grow?
Another question I have is: What exactly is a breba? Is it not a fig? Why are they called that?
Do you have any cuttings for sale? Thanks
your roses look liked there packed full of disease. they would do much better if you treated those fungal problems.
Thank you for your advise, sincerely, but I'm primarily an organic gardener and usually shy away from commercial, chemical, products. I planted that Rose there approximately 26 or 27 years ago and it has been producing beautiful Rose's during all of that time. Last year, after the growing season ended, I neglected to cut it back hard, as is my usual practice with Rose's. Because of the Corona Virus, I was late returning in the Spring and the rose had already begun to grow. Therefore, I decided not to prune it back, a practice beneficial to Rose's, and the results of that neglect are evident and plain to see. In any case, for future consideration, what recommendation would you make, specifically, if I were to decide on a chemical treatment? Thanks again for your advise on this subject! Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 i understand about trying to be organic. i take that into consideration with my food crops. not so much on plants im not eating, isnt much of a point except the exposure. my father never sprayed his roses for 20 years. i started becoming more familiar with fungicides and insecticides so i decided o help him out. my father has said he never saw his roses look so good. regardless of the sprays you need to follow the label and keep up with spraying on time. that usually means every 14 days depending on the spray. your roses look pretty infected for this time of year but im north of you. it would stop the spread if thats of interest. most fungicides only have a back action of 48hours. so no full cure of your existing leafs looking healthy. only the new leafs would be healthy. if you want to know what products well thats a long list. if your looking to spray once and thats it, dont bother. my list of chemicals is on my other computer. im waiting for a monitor. if your still interested i can give a more detailed list next week. i cant remember and spell them all, forgive me lol.i apologies for the long winded response. i dont know what expectations people have. i have a spread sheet to keep track of my spraying and rotations all summer. everyone has to decide for themselves what there comfortable spraying. any off the shelf product isnt going to carry much risk compared to licensed AG products. the public cant buy the bad stuff or some say the good stuff. and last but not least, it really helps to know what disease your trying to prevent with a spray. that is why they develop programs. this seems to be my new area of interest.
Thank you for your detailed response. I am primarily a food gardener, but I am fond of this particular Rose. It was a gift to my wife more than 25 years ago. Here is my plan. Because I'm too busy to start a spraying schedule, now, I plan to cut the rose back very hard when it goes dormant in the Fall. After new growth starts in the Spring, I will be able to begin useful, periodic, spraying of an effective fungicide. Given that strategy, what would be a trusted fungicide to use next season?
@@loumonti10 oh yes thats a good plan. the first spray during bud swelling would be a copper fungicide. save the organic copper octanate for summer use. the higher percentage copper fungicide will destroy any over-wintering disease. it will stick around for a few weeks. after that a systemic would be good. something rainfast like specticide immunox works well. after that you can throw in some oils for aphids. you would want another 2 fungicides to keep in rotation. propiconazole , mancozeb is an option but i dont like the risk factors on that one, daconil same thing, captan is a good protectant. there is Thiomyl but havent used that personally. i used seranade for the veggies and would hit the roses with that. its an organic protectant but pricey. these are some basic options i got off the top of my head. if you can start off on a clean slate you should see better blooms from more leaf energy in the years to come.
@@loumonti10 My mom grows Roses for years, she never uses chemicals. She makes an organic fungicide spray consisting of Baking soda, bleach free dish washing liquid (Seventh generation or Dr. Bonners) soap. Sprays them after a long rainy stretch and always trims off & cleans old leaves and debris left around the Rose bushes (throw away). She also swears by corn meal (polenta) she let's it soak in water over night and then uses that water as a natural fungicide and a root drench as roots can get Gaul. It also treats nail fungus. Great remedy. I've also seen her place like a good handful of corn meal (raw polenta) around the roots when planting she says prevents root disease. Always try to stay away from chemicals some way some how, they always get into the soil and into us! Just wanted to share hope this helps.