I really appreciate your detailed explanation of cutting around door jams! I recently tackled a similar project with LVP and found that measuring from multiple points helped ensure everything fit perfectly. I used a jigsaw for intricate cuts, which worked well, but I had to be careful with the locking mechanism. Your tip about using a razor knife to slice the lip on the plank is spot on; it saved me a lot of headaches during installation. I also prefer using polyurethane adhesive over super glue, as it gives more working time. Thanks for sharing your process! Looking forward to seeing more of your projects.
If you have a tight space along the baseboard, use a paint can opener. The cheap ones they give out. It's got a lip on it and you can lift up and pull towards you. Works 90% of the time
@@howtodoitdude1662 How do you know there isn’t underlayment attached to the bottom of the floor? That’s how most floors are, and so it was the case with this LVP.
Omg. I’ve had way more harder cuts than this and I’ve never cut any lip off or used and glue. This is a terrible tutorial man sorry for the insult. But you obviously have not been doing this long enough
@@3rdGenFireChicken so how do you lock in the planks when the material is 1/2” thick and you can’t lift it enough to lock it in? Let me guess, you beat the locking system to nonexistence and think you’ve locked it in. That’s how you break the locking system buddy. I’ve been doing this for a close to 15 years and it’s the best method I’ve come across. You might learn a thing or two if you weren’t so obstinate.
@@foothillsflooring that’s a long time buddy but I’ve been doing it for 37 years so I more than likely know a lot more than you. And I don’t need to beat it in cause my experience makes it where I don’t need to. And I also don’t need to cut any of the locking system off and use any glue. Also especially half of it is just a slither on the left side of the wall so that would snap in easy. Not to mention you use a pry bar to pull it together against the wall. Come on man be better than that. Use the proper tools that they make use the pull bar. You spent all that money on the pro knee pads you can surly buy a pull bar.
@@foothillsflooring that’s a long time buddy but I’ve been doing it for 37 years so I more than likely know a lot more than you. And I don’t need to beat it in cause my experience makes it where I don’t need to. And I also don’t need to cut any of the locking system off and use any glue. Also especially half of it is just a slither on the left side of the wall so that would snap in easy. Not to mention you use a pry bar to pull it together against the wall. Come on man be better than that. Use the proper tools that they make use the pull bar. You spent all that money on the pro knee pads you can surly buy a pull bar.
@@3rdGenFireChicken I do have a pull bar. But the pull bar doesn’t allow you to angle the piece in. A pry bar does. Also, why would I use a pull bar and a hammer when I can just use the pry bar for that? If you would’ve worked with this lvp then you’d know what I’m talking about. Thinner lvp, sure. Not with this one.
@@foothillsflooring I’ve been working with LVP since it came out as a glue down product. Pretty much worked with just about every size. Type and thickness. Even worked with 9x72 boards. There’s no way you’re telling me a pull bar wouldn’t work but yet a pry bar would. I’ve worked with angle angle product uniclick products drop lock you name it and never have I heard of a manufacturer telling you to cut any piece of the locking system off to get a piece locked in and use glue. The only time to cut the locking system and use that glue is when you’re replacing a plank to repair it.
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I really appreciate your detailed explanation of cutting around door jams! I recently tackled a similar project with LVP and found that measuring from multiple points helped ensure everything fit perfectly. I used a jigsaw for intricate cuts, which worked well, but I had to be careful with the locking mechanism.
Your tip about using a razor knife to slice the lip on the plank is spot on; it saved me a lot of headaches during installation. I also prefer using polyurethane adhesive over super glue, as it gives more working time. Thanks for sharing your process! Looking forward to seeing more of your projects.
nice. The measurements and cutting is the easy part. Installing it was where those years of experience come in. Thx for showing
@@ninjanik2095 I appreciate your comment! Thank you. 😊
If you have a tight space along the baseboard, use a paint can opener. The cheap ones they give out. It's got a lip on it and you can lift up and pull towards you. Works 90% of the time
I am used to using a dull hook knife for that. Works the same way for me. Thanks!
We picked up some samples through Cali, 6.5, 10, 12mm. It seems like solid flooring. We are considering the 10mm which comes in 8x56 planks.
@@jdmb03 sounds good. 👍🏼 I don’t think you’ll regret that! :)
Just curious, why don’t you use underlayment?
@@howtodoitdude1662 How do you know there isn’t underlayment attached to the bottom of the floor? That’s how most floors are, and so it was the case with this LVP.
Omg. I’ve had way more harder cuts than this and I’ve never cut any lip off or used and glue. This is a terrible tutorial man sorry for the insult. But you obviously have not been doing this long enough
@@3rdGenFireChicken so how do you lock in the planks when the material is 1/2” thick and you can’t lift it enough to lock it in? Let me guess, you beat the locking system to nonexistence and think you’ve locked it in. That’s how you break the locking system buddy. I’ve been doing this for a close to 15 years and it’s the best method I’ve come across. You might learn a thing or two if you weren’t so obstinate.
@@foothillsflooring that’s a long time buddy but I’ve been doing it for 37 years so I more than likely know a lot more than you. And I don’t need to beat it in cause my experience makes it where I don’t need to. And I also don’t need to cut any of the locking system off and use any glue. Also especially half of it is just a slither on the left side of the wall so that would snap in easy. Not to mention you use a pry bar to pull it together against the wall. Come on man be better than that. Use the proper tools that they make use the pull bar. You spent all that money on the pro knee pads you can surly buy a pull bar.
@@foothillsflooring that’s a long time buddy but I’ve been doing it for 37 years so I more than likely know a lot more than you. And I don’t need to beat it in cause my experience makes it where I don’t need to. And I also don’t need to cut any of the locking system off and use any glue. Also especially half of it is just a slither on the left side of the wall so that would snap in easy. Not to mention you use a pry bar to pull it together against the wall. Come on man be better than that. Use the proper tools that they make use the pull bar. You spent all that money on the pro knee pads you can surly buy a pull bar.
@@3rdGenFireChicken I do have a pull bar. But the pull bar doesn’t allow you to angle the piece in. A pry bar does. Also, why would I use a pull bar and a hammer when I can just use the pry bar for that? If you would’ve worked with this lvp then you’d know what I’m talking about. Thinner lvp, sure. Not with this one.
@@foothillsflooring I’ve been working with LVP since it came out as a glue down product. Pretty much worked with just about every size. Type and thickness. Even worked with 9x72 boards. There’s no way you’re telling me a pull bar wouldn’t work but yet a pry bar would. I’ve worked with angle angle product uniclick products drop lock you name it and never have I heard of a manufacturer telling you to cut any piece of the locking system off to get a piece locked in and use glue. The only time to cut the locking system and use that glue is when you’re replacing a plank to repair it.