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This isn’t a door jamb. This is a side panel next to a refrigerator.

😁 I thought that too when I saw it! 👍🏼

Yes of course. Shoe molding was installed afterwards

Thank you! 😊

@@Yumyumyum7 I wish I had that option. Unfortunately, this wasn’t your average fridge side panel. This front column needed support so undercutting it would not work.

What do you mean by “nail trimmers”?

If someone wants to fix this issue and is willing to replace their floors, then that’s not a problem. However. The only other possible way I see is to install a very slim transition at the nearest doorway, and taking up and reinstalling the same exact flooring, but with the first row being a couple inches narrower. However, one would need at least an extra box or two for this, as some of the cuts around obstacles won’t be able to be reused.

Sounds like you don’t know much about wide plank flooring. You cannot make every door in the house line up the way you want. One will inevitably come across something like this when they’re installing wide plank flooring throughout the house. We’re talking about 12+ doorways here.

It doesn’t.

@@JHGx Yep! Works just as great. If you don’t already know that.

@foothillsflooring I do! Lol. Some people act as if it's only for wood though

@@JHGx Yeah, some people are sticklers. lol.

@@smokeyj3983 😂😂 thank you!

@@Scorpio9028 It will be difficult but possible.

Thats a personal problem,

@@BlockchainEazy a problem which can be solved! 👍🏼

@@phi2263 Are you sure? I’ve never had that. The few times I noticed small beads in between the seam is when a few hairs get lodged in between, or when there is a little overlapping going on. Also, the seamer down now is controllable. You don’t need to run it for a full 20 seconds or whatever. 10 seconds is fine

The padding is attached to the bottom of the planks! :)

lol. And why is that? I don’t do my work based on people’s opinions. You shouldn’t either.

That’s very hard to say. There are a lot of good ones out there including CoreTec LVP! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

thank you! Glad you found it helpful.

@@josef9001 that’s pretty nice. 😊

You’re right. I usually use the white gorilla glue tubes. But this was all I had a the moment and it would suffice. 👍🏼 on another note, stair noses don’t need an expansion gap. And there was plenty of space between the liquid nails and the LVP.

I used that pl premium one time on a nosing because it was all I could get and it failed horribly. I also use the 30 second gorilla glue construction adhesive all the time and its great!

@foothillsflooring gotta do what you gotta do. The expansion i was talking about wasn't for tolerance or fitment, more just about how the material will move with humidity or temperature causing stress on the adhesive.

@davidgraham8739 that stuff is good. Can be expensive for a lot of volume though. I like the MS-246 adhesive from Wakol. It's awesome stuff, super thick and dries like a rubber. It's made specifically for stair parts or high stress/impact areas. I think Ardex produced it as an adhesive to stick heavy bricks to walls and ceilings for interior *esthetics*🤠

@ Thanks man! I’ll definitely check that out. 👍🏼

I installed the floors here, not you. Yes, this was a new construction build. Just because the baseboards are already installed, you supposed it’s not new construction?

@@foothillsflooringyup and the osb looking like that.

Yes, that’s because the drywall folks did their thing. Flooring guys come in after the drywall guys, so that’s why the osb looks the way it does

@@violenttfashion this Mapei self leveler was ready to walk on after 3 or 4 hrs. It all depends on the temperature and humidity of the job site. It was completely dry 24 hrs later

@ so you had to come back the next day for the installation of just a bathroom? Why not use a patching compound instead?

@@violenttfashion Nope, not just the bathroom. It was part of a 1000 sq ft job and this was one of the areas I recorded myself leveling. There were a few other spots but this was the worst spot. New construction and I had to raise it 1/2” in that area.

@ makes sense. So do you only do big jobs? I’m an apprentice but I’m getting ready to buy my van and create my llc. I imagine that starting out that I will mostly do small jobs but I’ve only ever worked with patching compounds.

@ I also do a lot of smaller jobs. And I was where you are about 8 years ago when I started on my own. I feared because of the uncertainty, but if you do good work you should have no trouble finding work! Blessings to you in that!

@@bobbarnhill8557 that’s one way to do it but can be difficult getting a good angle on the floor to lock it in.

@@MikesStory1990 It’s called a floor cutter. From Bullet Tools. You can find it online.

@@foothillsflooring oh you. good stuff.

With 4’ planks it’s hard to stagger in a way it looks nice without seams lining up too close. I’ll usually go for a 4’, 1’, 3’, 2’ stagger and sometimes switch it up

@@davidvarela1336 always a gap for expansion.

@@Mr.Crowley696 this is new construction with pro spray painted trim. Not gonna mess that up. As you can see the baseboards are clean.

I think that the kool glide system has so many more benefits and advantages over the hot melt irons and seam tape. But there’s nothing wrong with the old system. 👍🏼👍🏼

@@jackieraulerson2005 thank you! 🙏

The six inch seam iron is okay. However, that doesn’t stop seam peaking. If you overstretch, you’ll have a seam peak. Even on thick Berber carpet. 👍🏼

What do you mean, it hugely lessens the effects, literally says right on the seam tape "designed for berber carpets", its the best tape there is so I use it on everything, use it for like 4 to six months and you'll know what I mean, there's no going back to 4 inch tape....ever

@ Yes, it’s designed for heavy carpets like Berber. But that doesn’t mean your seam peaks will magically disappear because you use that tape. It’s not magic tape, you know? The only difference with that tape is that it has an extra inch on either side, and a little bit more adhesive. That is all. And that’s what you need for Berber because you have to stretch hard on Berber on carpet.

Ther are few differences my friend, the scrim and mesh is far stronger for one, its more rigid than I can explain in words compared to 4 inch tape, it's spreads out the energy of a stretch across a greater distance and because it's so rigid it will not buckle on center, you even have to change the way you do seams when you're using it, there are many differences and you would just have to use it to know, just trimming and tucking it is nearly impossible its so strong. Too much to explain over a chat but I wish you luck in your flooring pursuit of knowledge

@ yes, I am familiar with the 6 inch seam iron and tape. Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate it.

@@leefitchett6224 No. The only two things that prevent seam peaking is using seam sealer and not over-stretching.

@@JustaguyJustaguy-hj6nf Quarter round or shoe molding will cover that up. Here in the South, it is a staple decorative trim around baseboards in most homes.

What did he do about the big gap?

@ Shoe molding man! 👍🏼

@@jonathancowdin3775 that would be a good one on concrete. But I think that is overkill on wood subfloors, especially particle board. With that heavy duty beast, I could easily damage the baseboards. 😂

You take it outside and run it on concrete when you first get it, don't want it sharp, even better on wood, you'll cut your staple and tack strip removal in half with that thing, trust me there's nothing better my friend

@ thank you! I think I’ll have to check it out. :)

@@rexshauan2701 I agree! I would’ve done the same thing, but if I would’ve move the row to the left, then I would’ve ended up with an 1” starter piece at the other end. And I already had a 12” starter on the row before that.

Bend? You mean cup? No need to worry! I had a 3/8” gap around the baseboards and installed quarter round trim afterwards! 😊

@ ok that’s good, couldn’t quite see it from the video

@ yeah it’s hard to tell sometimes from videos

@@howtodoitdude1662 How do you know there isn’t underlayment attached to the bottom of the floor? That’s how most floors are, and so it was the case with this LVP.

@@jonathancowdin3775 I do use the spreader when I stretch on concrete. However if you set the backing on the tack strips it should be good. 👍🏼

Well it literally happened right on the video, but you still did a better job than most so

@@JesusHernandez-cv5hl 😁😁