Hi , just to mention firstly- Nice video. Secondly- I have the same tv , I also found that both C7817 & C7818 were burnt out, I tried replacing the burnt RR 102K 1KV 22 caps that I took out this tv with ones from another working tv , they were R 102K 1KV , I thought they must be the same but from different manufacturers, however the tv still didn't turn on. Tomorrow I will also try changing the fuse as you have mentioned in the video to see if that does the trick.
Thank you for your video. I have a DPS-165KP board in a TV that was given to me. It was the exact same capacitor! I replaced it (2 KV ceramic disc) but sadly the TV didn't turn back on. I'm thinking that it might need those problematic components you listed. I went ahead and picked up a thermal imaging camera because my biggest fear was in all the kit's i've seen, none included the capacitor that died on mine and I would love to have some type of peace of mind that the kit is addressing what I would need. Hopefully with the imager I can validate my needs. Keep up the great work! I love your videos!
That kit that you are selling will fix this problem on the one tv that you had but will not fix the tv`s that others have that has the same issues. I have this tv with same problem as you and all those parts you say that are in that kit is good on the 3 sets that I have here. So I would not suggest people to run out and buy your kit expecially if they are not a repair tech as they will be wasting their money and will also make it worse for techs like me to fix if they bring their set in after they tried to do an internet fix from videos like yours
I will not recommend anyone who is not a tech and does not know what they need to buy any kit whatsoever. I would recommend to them to get someone who does know how to find out what they need and how to repair a TV or to just buy a new TV. I'd also say that we list all the parts - by component ID - in the listings of our kits for the very purpose of allowing people to check if those parts have failed and if so to be have at least a basic assurance they are on the right track. Again, I do not recommend to anyone to buy a kit based on a seller description or - worse - their own assumptions alone.
Hello, I have a Sharp LC-60LE660U that doesn't power on. I did some basic troubleshooting (thanks to your video!) and assumed the power board was bad since I wasn't getting power readings on the output side of the board. I ordered a new powerboard and it still does not power on. I'm reluctant to keep throwing parts at it, but I figured I'd see if you have any recommendations from here. Thanks in advance.
TVs are usually dead when either the power board or the main board - and in some rare cases both - are bad. If your testing is right and the original power board was indeed not producing output then you did well by replacing it. You should now be able to confirm the new board is outputting the voltages that it should. If it does then you have a bad main board. If it doesn't then either it is also bad or you are not measuring something right and it may be that both power boards are good and it's just the main board that is bad.
hi i have a sharp lc-65n7004u tv it comes on i see the sharp logo it is brighter on the lest side of the screen than the left ,then turns off there is a facing red light when off i have changed the power supply board what would u recommend ?thank you
Hello and many thanks for all your videos!! I have now a Sharp 3D 40" AQUOS...and I have done all the measurements as I have also sent the 5V Wake Up for PSB at pin 14, following your advice...but don't work...I have traced the 14 underneath board and everything checks fine... But now I have found two 5W resistors next to the AC In fuse, which are coded R7001A and R7001B, which give me no continuity or no resistance measure...Do you know by any chance what their ohms are? Really, really appreciate your time!!! Thanks so much!!
I do not know its exact specification, of course, but if standby voltage is +5V you can expect up to about 2V to be logical 0 and above that to be logical 1. Again, exact level may differ slightly. To run a bit ahead I will not be able to troubleshoot your board remotely, sorry.
Just curious if you have the schematics I'm looking for a couple of diodes on a dps167 cpa ...at d7202....d7201 looking for the part number cross reference number something I could find in the United States
Afraid not, sorry. Nothing personal and there is nothing wrong with the request, we just do not work that way and have no means of helping you at this time.
I do not have the resources to help individual troubleshooting, but clearly you are looking at a problem on either primary or secondary side of the standby transformer circuit. The secondary side rectifier is one common possibility, but there are many others and I just can't get through all of them, sorry!
Would you please name the components that produce the light that the LCD selectively filters in order to produce visible image? This is contrast to the originally (first time) called LCD TVs, which used the exactly the same type of LCD panel., but different type of back light source, namely CCFL lightning yet nobody ever called them CCFL TVs, but everyone referred to them as LCDs .
@@coppelltvrepair What it says on the sides with Sanyo, I always thought LCD was Plasma and the crap B/L systems were cold cathode fluorescent lighting, & now 10¢ LED's wired in series and over-driven to ensure proper End-Of-Life procedures in the throw-away TV market. I got a 70" version of this behemoth, not even attempting to remove display off frame all alone to see the lighting array. This one's DOA, gotta 5v pulse and thats it ;) PS board on this 70" is a APDP-203A1 A Rev00
@@CarnivoreConservative Well OLEDs do. People do not have to know everything. There are no stupid questions and I highly recommend using questions instead of statements when one is not sure what they are talking about.
I’ve read multiple consumer reports that state the exact same problem so it’s not really a rare occurrence. It’s definitely not a single event. It’s quite common. I’m planning to call them tmrw but I’m also hearing from consumer reviews that it won’t be much help.
@@barryfly1694 I dare predict it won't be of much help as well. My previous opinion does not change much, though - for every major manufacturer out there you will find enough consumer reports from which you could draw the very same conclusion. Singling out Sharp is simply unfair - it would be more fair (yet not completely accurate) that they are all crap 😀
Hi , just to mention
firstly- Nice video.
Secondly- I have the same tv , I also found that both C7817 & C7818 were burnt out, I tried replacing the burnt RR 102K 1KV 22 caps that I took out this tv with ones from another working tv , they were
R 102K 1KV , I thought they must be the same but from different manufacturers, however the tv still didn't turn on. Tomorrow I will also try changing the fuse as you have mentioned in the video to see if that does the trick.
Thank you for your video. I have a DPS-165KP board in a TV that was given to me. It was the exact same capacitor! I replaced it (2 KV ceramic disc) but sadly the TV didn't turn back on. I'm thinking that it might need those problematic components you listed. I went ahead and picked up a thermal imaging camera because my biggest fear was in all the kit's i've seen, none included the capacitor that died on mine and I would love to have some type of peace of mind that the kit is addressing what I would need. Hopefully with the imager I can validate my needs. Keep up the great work! I love your videos!
That kit that you are selling will fix this problem on the one tv that you had but will not fix the tv`s that others have that has the same issues. I have this tv with same problem as you and all those parts you say that are in that kit is good on the 3 sets that I have here. So I would not suggest people to run out and buy your kit expecially if they are not a repair tech as they will be wasting their money and will also make it worse for techs like me to fix if they bring their set in after they tried to do an internet fix from videos like yours
I will not recommend anyone who is not a tech and does not know what they need to buy any kit whatsoever. I would recommend to them to get someone who does know how to find out what they need and how to repair a TV or to just buy a new TV. I'd also say that we list all the parts - by component ID - in the listings of our kits for the very purpose of allowing people to check if those parts have failed and if so to be have at least a basic assurance they are on the right track. Again, I do not recommend to anyone to buy a kit based on a seller description or - worse - their own assumptions alone.
Hello, I have a Sharp LC-60LE660U that doesn't power on. I did some basic troubleshooting (thanks to your video!) and assumed the power board was bad since I wasn't getting power readings on the output side of the board. I ordered a new powerboard and it still does not power on. I'm reluctant to keep throwing parts at it, but I figured I'd see if you have any recommendations from here. Thanks in advance.
TVs are usually dead when either the power board or the main board - and in some rare cases both - are bad. If your testing is right and the original power board was indeed not producing output then you did well by replacing it. You should now be able to confirm the new board is outputting the voltages that it should. If it does then you have a bad main board. If it doesn't then either it is also bad or you are not measuring something right and it may be that both power boards are good and it's just the main board that is bad.
hi i have a sharp lc-65n7004u tv it comes on i see the sharp logo it is brighter on the lest side of the screen than the left ,then turns off there is a facing red light when off i have changed the power supply board what would u recommend ?thank you
Ask local TV repair shops for a quote for back light replacement.
Hello and many thanks for all your videos!!
I have now a Sharp 3D 40" AQUOS...and I have done all the measurements as I have also sent the 5V Wake Up for PSB at pin 14, following your advice...but don't work...I have traced the 14 underneath board and everything checks fine...
But now I have found two 5W resistors next to the AC In fuse, which are coded R7001A and R7001B, which give me no continuity or no resistance measure...Do you know by any chance what their ohms are?
Really, really appreciate your time!!!
Thanks so much!!
I correct myself...those two resistors are 1.3 Mega Ohms...and both are fine.
Sorry, TV is dead with two blinks, one slower one fast.
Sorry to disappoint you...but I have no way of knowing what you have on that board of yours that I have perhaps never seen before...
Thanks,
The PSU is a: Sharp RUNTKA786WJQZ Power Supply Unit For LC-40LE830U
Or: DPS-110AP-6A
Do you have that board for sale or the repair kit?
What voltage is the PS_ON signal at when the TV is is standby and when the TV is ON? On my TV the voltage is always ~+2.1V. Thanks!
I do not know its exact specification, of course, but if standby voltage is +5V you can expect up to about 2V to be logical 0 and above that to be logical 1. Again, exact level may differ slightly.
To run a bit ahead I will not be able to troubleshoot your board remotely, sorry.
Just curious if you have the schematics I'm looking for a couple of diodes on a dps167 cpa ...at d7202....d7201 looking for the part number cross reference number something I could find in the United States
We do not. Sorry.
Hello
Could you please advise me how to test a dead sharp LC-70LE650x. Customer claims it was caused by storm. Thanks
Afraid not, sorry. Nothing personal and there is nothing wrong with the request, we just do not work that way and have no means of helping you at this time.
Thank you kindly
You mentioned a repair kit on the website, is it still available? I have the same issues.
Sorry...find it in the description field of the video.
Yeah the diodes that they send or at least the one that I'm looking at looks different
@@Tobysgmc would you care to elaborate?
I have a blue and green line on the left side of my 60 inch . i need to know how to fix it please haha I don't know what to look for thanks !
I do not have the resources to help individual troubleshooting, but clearly you are looking at a problem on either primary or secondary side of the standby transformer circuit. The secondary side rectifier is one common possibility, but there are many others and I just can't get through all of them, sorry!
HELLO
I have the same tv in this video. I get 10.5 v on pin 15 and nothing on other pins. what should i do next....
hi you resolve this problem ??
Thats a Liquid Crystal display, not Light Emitting Diodes
Would you please name the components that produce the light that the LCD selectively filters in order to produce visible image?
This is contrast to the originally (first time) called LCD TVs, which used the exactly the same type of LCD panel., but different type of back light source, namely CCFL lightning yet nobody ever called them CCFL TVs, but everyone referred to them as LCDs .
@@coppelltvrepair What it says on the sides with Sanyo, I always thought LCD was Plasma and the crap B/L systems were cold cathode fluorescent lighting, & now 10¢ LED's wired in series and over-driven to ensure proper End-Of-Life procedures in the throw-away TV market.
I got a 70" version of this behemoth, not even attempting to remove display off frame all alone to see the lighting array. This one's DOA, gotta 5v pulse and thats it ;) PS board on this 70" is a APDP-203A1 A Rev00
@@coppelltvrepair that's so funny l, they must think that the LCD lights itself😂
@@CarnivoreConservative Well OLEDs do. People do not have to know everything. There are no stupid questions and I highly recommend using questions instead of statements when one is not sure what they are talking about.
Sir can i get capacitor value ....location no. C7817
I do not know it so I can tell you without making an effort and we do not offer reference services, sorry.
joke rubbish.
Sharp tv are trash lol. I bought this tv and it’s had a horizontal line out of the box. Shaky screen. Useless tv
I’ve read multiple consumer reports that state the exact same problem so it’s not really a rare occurrence. It’s definitely not a single event. It’s quite common. I’m planning to call them tmrw but I’m also hearing from consumer reviews that it won’t be much help.
@@barryfly1694 I dare predict it won't be of much help as well. My previous opinion does not change much, though - for every major manufacturer out there you will find enough consumer reports from which you could draw the very same conclusion. Singling out Sharp is simply unfair - it would be more fair (yet not completely accurate) that they are all crap 😀
Mfetrstor 1oni