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same problem here, at first it was a few thin lines, now its like a dozen

You are absolutely right, of course, but then I do not usually show miniature things nor do I aim to mike high quality videos - just quick tips off the top of my head every now and then. I do not ask people to like and subscribe nor do I count on revenue from RUclips (though I clearly do not mind getting some if they toss it this way), so...I think it is kind of fair that you get what you pay for and possibly even more....while still being correct in your observation.

Afraid I can't relate to an experience I've had with this model. But I've seen a few boards sent by customers that came from TVs apparently infested with bugs and if that's the case a lot of weird things may happen, one of which is the LED light may just be gone. And the reason I go in this direction is that it makes no sense to see anything at all on the screen without seeing the LED at least flash when you point the remote and press a button...the best explanation would be that the LED is not working (or the remote), but if the TV can't start for whatever reason you should eventually see the red LED come up UNLESS it can't start because there's no standby at all (which happens), but if that's the case then there's no way you can be seeing any flashing on the screen whatsoever... As you can see it is somehow complicated and confusing logic.

No...we would not charge you $400 for board repair...I would expect a ceiling of $200-$250, more realistic expectation would be between $100 and $200. Good luck either way!

@@coppelltvrepair Well, I'm tempted to send it in, if it can be fixed for less than the cost of a new board from LG, which is $362.

@@basspig Not trying to tempt anyone to do anything. I am saying plain and clear that there''s no way we will ask $300 for this board repair, we'd rather tell you that it can't be repaired. I do not remember the last time we've charged anyone $300 for an individual repair...must have been long ago. I will also say I highly doubt LG has replacement boards available even at $350...do not mean to argue though.

We will know when we find the damage to the board. Failed jump-starting has the nasty side effect of burning one of the two processors on the board and people handling the board can do even worse things to it...like today we've spent about 3 hours to find one tiny resistor knocked off ever so slightly it could only be seen under a microscope yet enough to break connection, as a result of which the board was only starting, showing the startup logo and then shutting off. The customer can't really pay for what those 3 hours are worth (during which we also replaced a main processor, just as a safety precaution - turned out it wasn't necessary), but the real point here is that the customer can't know upfront - and neither can we - what would it take to repair a board that people have messed up with.

@@coppelltvrepair I'm guessing it's probably safer to buy a new board for $362 from LG, as repair could be this much anyway. But thank you for explaining the possible factors.

First test is to just measure the output voltage on the connector. Any even semi-decent multimeter will allow you to do that. The second test it to see if this voltage holds when there is current floating, aka "under load". An example of that would be trying to power on the TV when the power is connected and measuring the voltage at the output of the board shown in this video. Notice, however, that in this case the connector is BEFORE the measuring point, so the test "under load" would also include the physical connection, which as I show in this video tends to go bad...and when they go bad they also tend to show exactly under load. To test merely the adapter output you need to either open the adapter and measure on the board or cut the cable and measure there...which reminds me....the same connector may be used on the other end of the cable, where the adapter is; if this is the case then it is entirely possible there is a problem there as well, in which case the only truly reliable way to measure the output voltage under load would be to open the AC adapter and measure there. It is exactly because of those faulty connectors - which Sony has made specifically for them so you can't find them on the open market - that I suggest people just cut the whole cable deal and go with soldering on both ends. Or just use different connection cable and different, openly available connectors that can carry 10A at ~30VDC.

@@coppelltvrepair so I would have to open the powersupply brick up to test for voltage or could I do it with the cable unplugged from the TV side?

Great! I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Did you fix that?

You're very welcome. Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

Follow our video for opening the monitor very carefully and if you can test the main fuse on the power board to see if it is blown open. If it is DO NO try to replace it - watch another video of ours to see why this is not a good idea, it is really simple, really - the fuse blew because of a real failure, the fuse is NOT the failure. If the fuse is bad or if you can't test it perhaps just initiate service request at our website through the link in the video description. If the fuse is good then it's more difficult - the board may still be bad and in need of service, but it may also be something else such as the main board or the panel...though those do not usually make loud pops, mostly the power board does.

@ I will just submit a service request and remove and send power board to you to fix. Fingers crossed that fixes it because this monitor was pricey and I really don’t want to buy new ones if possible.

I don't know the answer about those two particular boards, but based on broader plasma repair experience I'd say to never mix sustain and buffer boards from different screen size plasmas and also if the plasma logic board is embedded in the main board like some later models did also never swap even main boards from different sizes because they control the sustain boards for the different sizes and that usually leads to failure.

@ Thanks on quick answer..question more,is the SC50 just jumper test point?Short of two pin actually?So i can find out if the sc board is ok?

@@TheDevilcuteGr Sorry, I do not remember what SC50 is.

@ SC50 is kind of test jumper on the board,2 pins in the air..

@@TheDevilcuteGr If that is the white connector between the two top connectors for the buffer boards then yes, it is a jumper that allows you to test the SC board without the buffers; if the buffers are not connected and this jumper is open the main board would detect that and stop the TV with error. If you jump the pins it would consider the buffers in place and functional...it is kind of a safety circuit that blocks the execution if the two buffer boards are not in place and this jumper just bypasses them to allow normal proceed. This jumper also allows to determine if a shutdown is caused by the buffers or the SC board.

Who doesn't? 🙂

We do not have a video showing how to get to the strips, sorry. And I am not aware of one to point you to. It's not a rocket science, you will figure it out. There are not "lenses" for edge-lit LED strips - it is the whole screen plastic light channeling surface that does that job and I am pretty sure you can't buy it anywhere as it is large and fragile and shipping alone would cost as much as a new TV. The strips themselves you can find if you google NLAC20217L or NLAC20217R. We used to carry them, but not anymore...yet others still sell them.

May be LCD panel COF or may be LED strip section about to go out, but no way it can be a bad power supply.

Maybe we can and maybe we can't actually - we do not have 100% repair success ratio for those. But if were to help you...what would be the incentive for people like T.Majors from this video to send us their boards for repair?

Nearly everything I can say on the subject is in that video. Sorry if it isn't enough.

@@coppelltvrepair i put my t-con board in the oven for 5 min today. so far its working good. i will see how longs it last. my lines and half screen is gone also.

Bring it to a good TV repair technician ASAP. If no good technicians are available bring it to any technician. If no technicians are available at all then buy a new TV. If you can't buy a new TV start reading books or online articles, possibly on electronic repairs, but any other trade you can acquire will also do. Hope that helps.

Afraid not. Sorry.

Sorry nothing off the top of my head...this was too long ago.

I am so sorry I had caused you a headache. Maybe the second time it'll be easier and on the third you may actually get what I am actually saying because it does, in fact, work for our customers and saves them money and it seems to have worked for a few other people watching this video. Does not mean it has to work for everyone, of course, nor does it promise to do that. Headaches are definitely not intended effect, however, and should be taken seriously. I recommend consulting with a specialist or if the pain doesn't stop call 911.

My guess is whatever weak LED there was it got burned open that first time after the hack and now the whole circuit is open and you just need to replace LED strips. The same would eventually happen to everyone else using this trick, only after some more time....for you it happened immediately.

@@coppelltvrepair After to replace it, I need to revert any change in the board?

@coppelltvrepair I bought this tv with this problem. Now the TV turn on, the screen is on, but in black. I was looking the board and somebody made a bad work and tried to fix the opposite side and removed a resistance. If I replace or connect with another line, just like I did before with your help, may it help? I think that without the resistance the circuit is opened and the TV is not going to work.

That is fine. If your TV has no picture, it is probably the LEDs, not the power.

@@coppelltvrepair Thanks the tv just makes a clicking noise every 15 seconds if I disconnect the main board the back lights stay on

It could be too many things to list here, so I'll just give you the top ones we've seen. Just bear in mind this is only trying to help, not to diss anytning: first, it may not have been the kit for the problem. Having the fuse busted and the mosfter shorted is the biggest cue this was the right kit. Second, it may not have been properly installed and the most common way for that is that the vias for the MOSFET or some of the safety capacitors was ripped out on with the copper via connecting different board layers. Third, you may have had a failure that is uncommon and has more failed parts than what is in the kit. That would always be a possibility. Hope this helps. By all means it is not all inclusive, but it is what I have seen. As I have said many times...repair kits do not fix boards...people do.

So I say you should probably watch that video.

I hope you do realize if we answer that here then the next question will be on how to fix Falcon 9 and maybe how to fix the Israeli conflict...

Thank you very much, nobody has every given us super thanks before!

I am afraid I do not know any service center in the US that offers COF replacement (that's the name of this plastic "cable"). Theoretically it is definitely possible with the right equipment, but it's a project that requires working on the LCD screen itself, which implies shipping in both directions and that alone would have already made it too risky and expensive. I am afraid what you'll end up doing is just selling the main board and possibly - though not very likely - the power board on eBay. And did you just donate $20 to the channel?! Boy that would definitely make you the first ever!!!

@@coppelltvrepair I just thought it would get attention and you'd answer. I replaced it with the 57" Samsung. It still works but has a thin vertical line just left of center.🙁Appreciate the answer. Hank

@@hankarmstrong3681 I've got the same issue just right of the centre Its down to the heat the monitor generates... shit really

@@coppelltvrepair Does the cable run across the entire screen? I thought there would be individual 'tabs' behind the bezel. I'm trying to find a video showing those tabs and with the front bezel removed - I'll need to do a repair on mine :(

@@gamesandstuffs Sorry do not understand the question. Good luck either way!

The monitor was dead since the power board has failed.

I do not know how to help you remotely, sorry!

any tips or somthing if you can.

ruclips.net/video/khZvtF7QRwk/видео.html

Good manners.

By now I do not remember, but since I usually do I'd say probably yes.

Indeed.

For you and everyone else reading this...check out at www.coppelltvrepair.com - if the listing is still up and active and if you can initiate service request then sure, go ahead and do so.

You are welcome. And now something you may not be welcoming so much: unless you removed the existing solder (usually with a copper solder wig strip) and scratched off the coating around the holes for the connector so that new solder has a nice solid base to attach to them.your job was not quite successful...not for long anyway. "Clean them very well" in the video is really not defined...my bad. Just adding solder would be a BAD job.

@@coppelltvrepair thanks for the advice. I actually did just add new solder without doing anything else and I know how to take it apart again if it stops working and I'll do it right the second time 👍

I do not understand the question, I am sorry. Besides...it has been long since I worked on the Sharp LE series.