@@thelol1759 I actually drained one recently on a type 9 transmission with the newer blue fluid someone had put red fluid so yea we just opened the inspection hole rotated the engine over and found the bolt and bam
@TrapperAaron my 89 F150 C6 automatic transmission had a drain plug on the torque converter, makes perfect sense. Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter, not all ford converters have them.
@@TrapperAaron It Makes perfect sense. Every 4r70 I’ve seen , car or truck, between 1994-2002 had a drain bolt on the torque converter. It’s a drain plug. For draining. Which is something you should do if you changing the transmission fluid. Just dropping the pan will only get you maybe 5 quarts. On average; Between the pan & filter, transmission cooler, and torque converter. The 4r70 holds close to 12-13 quarts. Although it’s nearly impossible to flush the transmission cooler itself on some fords because they have a thermostat integrated into the transmission cooler. This was implemented to allow for the transmission to reach operating temperature faster. So unless there is a flush machine that heats the atf to 180 degrees which I’ve never heard of or seen; the cooler can’t be flushed. This means you would have to replace the cooler if it ever became contaminated
After pan drop, filter change, magnet clean, and refill, many times on many vehicles I have taken the cooler line loose and added fluid through the fill port while someone starts the engine … Pan never runs dry this way and with a piece of clear tubing running to your drain pan you can visibly see the color change of the fluid. In any case thank you for caring enough about the customer's vehicle to get more old fluid out and more new fluid in!
Absolutely on the trans cooler lines. I didn't think I would know when to stop, but it's amazing how much different old and new trans fluid looks. It doesn't fade clearer and clearer making it difficult to know when to stop, no. It almost abruptly changes from iced tea colored to Kool-Aid red. Very satisfying to see.
@@imgonnagogetthepapersgetth8347 The way to do it is pump into a a large fluid container (I used a 2.5 gallon oil jug) so you know how much goes out versus what you're putting in.
Best way I found was to drop all I could refill and repeat until it came out clean! It’s a hassle but you get all the old fluid out by letting the trans flush it self out!
Unfortunately that's not how automatic transmissions work. It's not like the engine oil dump. The trans pan will generally only hold 1/3 of the total fluid capacity
my 16 honda has one. Square insert just stick a breaker bar straight into it, drain and fill then use check bolt to check level. however my zf trans on my 4 series is a different job
Unhook both lines at trans cooler or radiato and connect hoses on each one. One going to a bucket with clean fluid and the other pumping into an empty bucket. It will suck up the new fluid and flush out the old. Once it comes out clean shut if off, reconnect lines and run it while checking level. If it's too high unhook the return line and run it to pump some fluid out and recheck after reconnecting lines or use a hose on a hand siphon down the fill tube if it has one to remove fluid as well.
The cooler return doesn't run though any kind of pump. It is a pressurized return from the cooler feed. It cannot suck. You'll be left with 2 buckets, one full of clean ATF and an empty trans sump and one with a few quarts of dirty ATF.
@@lukemalloy2488 talking about the lines coming from the trans to the cooler, not leaving the lines connected at the cooler and disconnecting at the trans
I get what you’re saying and doing, and I’m all of mechanics educating people about their cars. But you know people are gonna pick out every misspoken word and such. Please keep doing what you’re doing man
@@wesleywlee Your intentions are good I’m sure but you’re wrong objectively. All advice isn’t good advice. The vast majority of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter which holds it hostage regardless of how long you leave the pan off. Please only encourage people after you’ve checked the validity of their credentials or information.
All the commenters with their fancy flush methods; the drain and fill method used here is a much safer way to exchange fluid in a transmission particularly with older/high mileage vehicles. By doing this you prevent metallic debris from getting lodged in the valve body. This dude knows what he's doing.
YES! A 3x drain and fill is my gold standard. I will do the pan drop, filter change and first refill. Drive for a tank of gas and drain and fill again (I’ll notice some wear metal and debris, likely coming loose from the detergency of new ATF), then drive it for another tank and repeat. This last drain is just fluid and I never see any wear metals or debris on the third run. After that, it’s every other oil change until the fluid is predominantly red and I switch to 30k intervals.
@@BrandonWest87 Ace! Yes, if a simple pan drain-and-fil removes 50% of the total amount, then 3x pan drain-and-fills will exchange 90% of the total amount. That's just mathematics.
You can do a perfectly serviceable full fluid exchange by disconnecting a transmission cooler line and letting the transmission pump the fluid into your receptacle as you add fluid to the transmission.
Also to get a little more fluid out u can drain from radiator and hoses if u are trying to get the most out of you really want to get active with it flush out the transmission radiator to get out out sediment from your system
Some people hate Saturns but they had the right idea when it came to transmission fluid. It had a filter just like and engine oil filter and a drain plug. You could change the fluid easy as an oil change.
@Online Mechanic Tips I'm not sure what years were like that but I had a late 90s saturn car that way. I remember guys taking the trans filter off at an oil change place I worked at thinking it was the oil filter.
Woooo!! I had 3 Saturns, and never knew that!! SL2 5sd, SL1 Auto both 94’s and one 97 SL Auto … Damm cars ran flawlessly forever!! Good on gas too out that Toyota branded motor 👍🏽😂
i usually change the filter n refill, then put the cooler lines in buckets, suction line in a full of new fluid one and an empty for the other, run it till its clean as, check level and adjust, done 👌 uses alot of fluid that way but i dont mind as it ends up in the fuel tank of my old diesel truck anyway 😂
@@Petem7668 the flush? Yeah just make sure you get the lines in the right orientation or you'll end up with an air pocket. Or you mean running an old mechanical injection diesel on used oil? Yeah you can, usually filter it through a reuseable shopping bag and put it in the tank, though if i think the oil might have water in it, i put it in a separate tank and drain out the bottom litre or so a week later to see if its "wet" otherwise in the tank it goes, best results from 50/50 diesel to oil, but a hot summer, 100% used oil works. Just hard to start if its cold overnight
@@Colt45hatchback you answered both perfectly, thanks for answering and passing on the knowledge. I’m still pretty new to all of this and I’ll definitely look more into it and be using this.
I disconnected my tranny hose from the radiator into a pan then start it up and let it push ALL the fluid out when it starts to run out shut it off refill it and do it again. U will watch fluid go from black to brown to red and I have done this on over 40 different types of vehicles and never had a issue except awesome results...this completely drains the torque converter. You can blow the radiator/trans cooler with a air hose
I knew an old guy who would slightly raise the vehicle. He would run a clear tube from the return (dirty) line into a marked bucket and add fluid at the same rate. He had done it enough times to know fast he would need to add. The only problems I saw with his system was #1 You needed to be 100% focused. One on the bucket and one eye on your supply. #2 Unless you were fast (really fast) you kind of needed a helper to shut down the engine as soon as you were done. I forget when the guy passed away, maybe mid 2000's, so newer transmissions may be a lot less "forgiving" to being a little under or over filled.
On my personal vehicles I do two changes back to back the first change will mix what’s left of the dirty fluid and then the second will be completely fresh
I do a drain and fill on my old Toyota's transmissions at every oil change. Cheap insurance and they staying feeling new. Never drop the pans and drive them half a million miles. Rust eventually takes everything out, lol.
My transmission filter got clogged I noticed the transmission fluid was black and wouldn't drive I changed the filter and fluid and it drives good now but the transmission fluid turned black again do you recommend I change the fluid s second time
@@boostedkidproductions9719 something else is the issue. Like someone said it might be overheating. Does the transmission whine going up hill? You could have the fluid tested for degradation at dealership. It will tell you exactly if the fluid is degrading from what.
@@boostedkidproductions9719 also change the fluid couple of times because the torque converter holds a lot of fluid. Might be black because mixed in with the oil fluid.
That's what I need to do to my '89 Chevy Caprice. It needs its trans fluid and filter change. What I would do is fill the transmission fluid up, run it, shut the engine off. Disconnect the trans return line from the radiator, connect it to a long rubber hose. Put the end of it into a big bucket, plastic container, etc. Start the car, with the hose in the bucket. As the car is running, watch the trans fluid change from a dark brownish color to a bright red. I saw this done on RUclips.
On my 03 Ranger I pulled the trans cooler lines and started the truck. Added fluid while the trans pumped out the old. Once it turned bright red its flushed. This was all after dropping the pan and changing the filter.
To Swap All ATF, You can run engine with cooler lines disconnected. Have one line sucking new fluid and other in drain pan. Run transmission through gears.
@@drpthemc older Hondas recommend like that through AllData repair. 2003 and newer Honda recommends to drain pan/case 3x and you get like 90% of fluid changed. I would NOT flush transmission with flushing machine. Usually just stirs up contamination and creates problems down the road
I did this to change the strainer after 200k miles. Everything was very clean and strainer barely had any particles in it. But I changed my transmission oil every 50k miles.
Yank a trans line off, put a drain pan under it and start the car. The trans pump will evacuate the fluid for you. Then reattach the line and refill. Easy peasy and no pan. Good trick between filter changes
I've never understood why most trans pans don't have a drain plug. Thankfully my f250 does so I just drain it once a year and refill. I'll change the filter this year too.
@@TheFORDman256 yes, but with the pan on..I have the pan off this car. Imo a flush job is risky and worthless if it does not include changing the filter. If you doing them both, good for you my friend
Or unhook the cooler lines let gravity bleed to plus the cooler or use compressed air out of your air compressor turn down the regulator on the compressor
Plus whoever said Fords use to have a drain plug in the converter I've used made a magnetic drill bit drilled the converter tapped in with pipe thread tap put a quarter inch pipe plug in it I've also started it up real quick let it pump itself out I'm 63 my dad owned operated a Standard Oil Station for 52+yrs 60 total plus an friend that taught how to rebuild trans taught me these things. That you can just stay over a little bit get the job done then that day so when you come in tomorrow morning it's a whole new day nothing weighing you down overnight go home or the tavern for a cold six pack drink one take 6 home with you done that many times picked a young lady when I wasn't married women seemed to love a hard working man in a uniform even use to carry a clean uniform with in car ,truck whatever I had sometimes drove a customers vehicle trouble shooting staying one step ahead for in the morning tomorrow even did that when I worked at the dealership and after I built my own three bay three in ground lifts service center have to always be thinking how to stay ahead of the game making your life easier
While the filter is important, the fluid should be your main focus. Your method is called a ATF change, not flush. A change will will only take about a 1/3 out. Listen to others who say to use the transmission cooler line method.
Smdh, this is not a flush job..This customer paid for a trans service with a filter change. Im leaving the pan off to gravity bleed as much of the old fluid out as possible. And IMO, the filter more important than the fluid being changed. This fluid can take a beating and not break down but that filter can get restricted from internal wear/debri and cause a major break down.
@@OnlineMechanicTips your way is the correct way. Filters plug and crack. If you find a broken snap ring on the magnet you can save your customer a Lotta cash avoiding a catastrophic failure. Loosen the valve body bolts if you want to get even more out of the convertor. A flush machine will not allow you to get everything out like people think.
@@OnlineMechanicTips This right here. I do a 3x drain and fill with a filter change on the first run. After that I just drain and fill every 30k. Thanks for the video brother. Your one about plugging intake holes in the heads with the snapped off HF pry bar was a pucker moment I’ve lived through too 😅
@@OnlineMechanicTips You can remove the filter entirely and the fluid does the entire job. Remove the fluid And rely on the ‘more important filter’ I’ll hold on
I always catch the old fluid in case the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly. Always a good way without a dipstick to measure what you need to put back in.
If the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly, you probably need a new trans. And the old one was on the way out, putting the old friction into the trans is a band-aid.
@Audi Aug 815 Listen if the transmission shifts like shit and brought it in and wont with new fluid its gone. But some people dont have money like that old fluid back in will get it off my lift
@@CodyDoesIt You have no idea how much sense your comment doesn’t make. For the love of all things holy, please tell me that you only work on your vehicles in your imagination? Never touch a real one please.
@@bigwheel9132 haven’t done this before but you have to understand that some people don’t have expendable income. Meaning that doing it right is not an option for them. It could be food on their table for their family vs a proper transmission flush.
if a trans filter is the metal mesh screen type like in toyotas, then changing is a waste of time. those filters will only catch catastrophic chunks which means it's screwed at that point anyways. contaminants are left in fluid suspension, and the pan magnets catch the usual filings.
For a more complete drain, the torque converter needs to be drained. My last vehicle that had one was a 1976 Dodge 1 ton. Senseless that many auto manufacturers eliminated this feature.
have bought a fiat 500 with 100,000 miles on the automatic transmission & never changed before so decided to easy drain 2-3 quarts at a time and drive to see how it handled the new fluid..did this about 5 times while I tried to measure out same as I put in while I ordered the dips tick it never had..a few more changes and it might start to get red..but so far still dark...I wanted to try a cooling line flush but figured it might be too much ..so far no issues!
In older cars we would pull the pan and when it was almost finished dripping we would start the engine for about 2 or 3 seconds and shut it off, pumping more fluid out, we'd remove the torque converter drain on Ford's
@@OnlineMechanicTips I'm not sure if Ford's still have them or not, but in older Ford Lincoln and Mercury had a drain plug in them, I worked at a gas station back in the late 80's and early 90's afte that.r that I'm not sure I just did mechanic work, oil change guys did all
@@frankm4277True. Or just do it yourself. Some of these car projects are super easy with the help of tutorial videos. If someone isn't comfortable doing the job, definitely take it to a dependable shop as you stated earlier.
After reading a lot of these comments, I’d like to Thank Ya’ll for keeping me in business the last 48 years (I fix Cars/Transmissions aka Mechanic) some of the things ya’ll “say” you do will actually damage a Transmission. By the way keep on doing only partial oil changes on your Transmissions and while you’re at it why don’t ya’ll just do partial oil changes on your engines too, us Mechanics need the business. What a lot of people call a “Transmission Flush is actually a “Fluid Exchange w/Filter” and requires the proper Equipment/Machine to ensure no Damage is done to the Transmission. Keep on going folks we want your Money….. er’ Business I mean.😊
Believe it or not in the old days on the turbo 350s and the turbo 400s we actually used to drill into the torque converter and then we would plug it with a rivet with a permatex. Yep… did it all the time and never ever had a leak.
While the oil drain plug is out, i crank the engine on a few times. That way it drains the oil filter before I remove it off my 4.0 Tacoma. I also think it helps flush it out better. If the oil light comes on I don’t crank the engine anymore.
Looks like the pan on my 2008 Dodge Dakota. Easy filter replacement it looked just like that. No drain plug so you had to remove the pan just like this.
Disconnect the coolant line from the radiator and let it pump through the filter and torque converter. Once the fluid starts to sputter add new fluid until your trans has clear read fluid. Your toque converter holds half your trans fluid.
Clutches break down over time and that material goes into the filter. Also, sometimes filters can (in rare cases) break down with age. Heat cycles also plays a role in trans fluid breakdown. Trans fluid doesn’t get dark and lose its lubrication abilities on its own… In all the vehicles I have had serviced, there was a noticeable improvement in shifting. both my american and foreign vehicles. Lastly, why do you think higher end performance cars have a 1k mile transmission break in before getting the filter/fluid changed and then a 25k transmission service afterwards? Things wear down.
Ater that i usually disconnect the like that pumps into the radiator, turn it on or have someone turn it on for a bit. Turn it off check the amount u pulled put some new. Then repeat until clean 👍
If a transmission has more than 100K on it never ever do a transmission flush. If you do then you have a 90% chance of the transmission failing. This transmission might still be saved by just a new filter and fluid. This guy is doing it correctly. Good job.
If you take the time and inquire what takes place with a flush most places do not change the filter and use the same machine for flushes (cross fluid contamination). That is like taking a bath after everyone else has and putting your crusty undies back on and then claiming "I'm clean"!!!
This is the only way to go. Filters crack, screens plug, debris collects on the magnet. I have saved people from catastrophic failures using this method.
Wrong, got close to 8 or 9.. This was a trans service job. I would of pulled out the flush machine had she bought a flush.. If you didn't change the filter, you did the car a dis service imo.
Change the filter, refill the pan, pull the line off at the radiator and put a rubber hose into a bucket. Start the engine and dump fluid down the fill tube until the fluid runs out clean.
Torque converter is still full of old dirty fluid. You should drain it, Fill it and drive it around the block and drain and fill and repeat until the fluid is clean
@@Leothelion357 Its a trans service. A fluid exchange is when you only changing the fluid, which is point less. And btw saying "as close to a flush as possible" is not the same as saying its a flush. I dont do trans flush jobs. But since this is RUclips, you welcome to make a video and show the public how you role on your channel, thats what I did over here on my channel.
Well, I’ve been in automotive for a long time. “In most cases “ servicing your transmission AT LEAST every 15 to 30,000 miles DEPENDING on driving conditions it most important. Including “lifetime fluid “(check out Scotty Kilmer on that fluid) . As far as flushing versus draining and refilling it depends on the history and type of transmission as well as if there are any symptoms. That being said, when a transmission flush is done fully and CORRECTLY with no prior symptoms with factory or better(I prefer better) fluid with a good friction modifier not a transmission fixer( especially with no prior symptoms) a transmission fluid flush is awesome!!! If the transmission is slipping some prior to service, well, you either have a problem that will get worse anyway or a fluid breakdown that a real , properly done flush will fix. If you do not flush the transmission either with slippage or overdue a drain and fill can actually damage it!! You are mixing about half old fluid (in most cases) with nice new fluid with a lot of detergents in it. The new fluid cleans the transmission insides, the old fluid weakens the new stuff and all the gunk gets dumped into your filters and you end up with fluid starvation!! So either drain and fill BEFORE it gets bad or PROPERLY FLUSH IT. If you have a problem after a correct service you would have had a problem anyway. But good luck on finding anyone that can do a proper flush!!!!! So drain and fill every 15,000 to 30,000 !!!! My personal experience with a transmission slipping on a 1994 Nissan Quest minivan is I tried flushing it. I used a BG flush machine, BG pre cleaner and afterwards BG AT conditioner. The car was driven some with the pre cleaner( it was slipping on hills) and during the flush it was raised up and the wheels were spinning. It fixed the slippage and was good up to the day I sold it 3, yes, THREE YEARS LATER!!! As I stated it depends. So take care of your expensive overpriced car!!!
A flush is not wat you did. Also. Ppl should not do an actual flush unless the transmission has actual issues. If it don’t have issues then yes just a pan drop and filter replacement then top fluid back off is all you should do. PERIOD
Actually if you have actual issues starting with a transmission probably the worst time to do a flush. lot of time it's material in the oil acting as your clutchs. It's best to make sure you do your pan evey 50k or even 30k depending on what you are doing with the vehicle. At the very least change it ever 5 years to keep the amount of water in it to a very minimum. And never do a flush with a machine or as cleaning chemicals to transmission.
You’re full of Crap… 48 years I’ve been servicing and repairing Cars/Transmissions and have literally flushed Thousands of transmissions and have NEVER had a Transmission fail by doing a flush… That’s like saying “Never change all of your engine oil because your engine will fail” What a Moron
Flushing a trans with low miles on it and keeping up with it, won’t hurt it. When you wait until it has 150k on it or more, can sometimes wake up a problem. It doesn’t create the problem, it just cleans it out. When the clutches wear down, they lose friction. The friction material remains in the old fluid and the trans still works. Once you clean that out, bam.
Should of seen this Trans I was working on, lts and a different dealer did the rnr of the Trans. It had soo much metal in it the globs felt like clay. Almost looked like the silver paint they use to coat the Trans. The worst tans iv seen with less than 500 mile on it lmao soooo much metal.
As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS mechanic I've been questioned many times on that subject. First thing is out sight out mind; just like the owners manual!!! ( unread ) Changing or flushing ever thirty or fifty thousand miles is OK. But if you have not done the recommended maintenance and now there seems to be a problem ( eighty/hundred thousand miles ) changing or flushing will probably exacerbate the PROBLEM!!!!
If you’re afraid of losing the precious gunk inside the transmission, you can always drain and fill without lowering the pan, and better fluid quality will make transmission work better
Drain, fill with new, drive for ten minutes. Repeat five times. Final drain, remove the pan and replace the filter, reseal pan, fill to spec. Takes longer but is more thorough
I don't know how it is now but in the past i know a few jobs made things worse or caused problems with a flush. For me no flush just a drain and change
Drill a 1/8 the inch hole in the torque converter right where the 2 halves are welded together ,only drill thru one layer of the converter shell make sure the hole is at the bottom let it drain ,then next morning, clean the hole and put a nice spot weld to close it back up , now you just got about 95 plus percent of the trans fluid out of the transmission
Iv seen guys pull the cooler lines off put the return line in a bucket of clean fluid and drop the sending line in an empty bucket. Run the engine and let it cycle that fluid through. Not sure of thats a good idea or not but iv seen it done
Waste a few quarts of cheaper, but for the application store brand fluid before service. Suck two or three out with a cheap harbor freight evacuator the add back. Do it before service with filter and it comes out much more clean in the end.
I just use the pump disconnect the high pressure line start the vehicle pump the transmission down till the line spits then shut it off your system is the cleanest it will ever be without fully dismantling it, some vehicles will require you to put transmission in neutral to engage the pump/ ie dodge but if you do this when cold and only engage the neutral part of transmission it won't damage the transmission done this on so many vehicles I can't count, and never had a return for transmission issues
You're getting maybe a third, half at the most, of the fluid out. Leaving it overnight makes it a little less messy but only gets a couple more ounces.
What ever more I get out by letting it drain over night is a bonus. Im aware Im not going to get it all out nor am I trying to. This is simply a transmission service job sold with the intensions of getting as much out as possible, This is not flush job.
I had a transmission shop tell me that years ago while having the transmission rebuilt on my dodge ram. He said that many of the vehicles that come into his shop are within 500 miles after being flushed. He recommended that if the transmission hadn't been regularly flushed out that you only do a fluid change because when you flush a transmission that hasn't been regularly maintained it can knock a lot of the built-up gunk loose that can clog filters and lines that will lead to complete failure. That being said, flushing is the best option as long as it's done fairly often on a regular basis.
@@awdeveau HI. Just wanted to chime in real quick. I have heard that also. But I have worked in a dealerships for over 30 years and used BG flush machines for alot of those years. Now im not saying that the theory is wrong because I have actually witnessed it happening once. (not to me) Although, one time out of hundreds, the odds aren't good for that story. Anyways, if it was a fear, couldn't you have the customer sign a waiver of some type stating that it could ruin the trans and they still want to move forward with the flush?
@@midnightrider1854 the "reverse flush" that some shops sell will kill them damn near every time. That said, I just simply change the fluid and filter (gets 6-7 quarts out of a 14 quart system) every 25k when the manufacturer calls for 50k changes. Fluid is expensive, but not that expensive.
@@leftyeh6495 I suppose that depends on how bad the trans fluid is, and if the services have been kept up. But I have done a lot of filter and drains as well. I just always preferred the method of completely removing the fluid.
I like your videos! I learn a lot from them. I do have a question for you though, we have an old big v8 van and we need to really flush the coolant system, what would you say the best way to go about it would be? We took it to a local shop and now it runs 10xs worse, it's not even being driven bc of what they did or didn't do. So me and my son will do it ourselves! With your help hopefully! Thanks
42RLE trans there. Pull the valve body screws loose and brake the seal between the valve body and case. That will allow the converter to drain about half way out. Otherwise it will remain full. Don't worry about the clutch feed seal above the valve body, its rubber and be fine when you re-rorque the valve body. Better use atf+4 so you don't get TCC lockup shudder. Remember your new filter o ring!
when I do my engine oil change, I let it drip for 24hrs. It gets an additional 150 to 200ml of dirty oil out of the system. That is about 6oz of dirty oil that would normally remain in the system without the overnight drip.
@Manni- so wrong , a flush is a transfer of fluid wish old one comes aout like the guy up to stated ,this is a drain a fill you should go to a real shop 👌
If you drain it while it’s hot you’ll drain the torque converter too at least that’s how the Buick was 12 quarts later I found out the trans has a thermostat too
You can disconnect the lines that go to the radiator and run it for a few seconds in average 1 qrt.every 3 seconds. So after filling up the transmission you can get the most out of course not all cars have this type of set up knowing that some will have integrated coolers and that make it difficult but 65 percent of vehicles can be done like I mentioned before.
@@abbsgarage.9676 Sure man, go for it. I would love to see how you do it. I didn't know you had a mechanic channel. Imma head over and check out some of them videos when I get home.
Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter, old school ford's had a drain plug on the converter.
New Mercedes have them too. Very annoying getting it exposed without the baring tool though.
@@thelol1759 I actually drained one recently on a type 9 transmission with the newer blue fluid someone had put red fluid so yea we just opened the inspection hole rotated the engine over and found the bolt and bam
What Ford tranny ever had a drain on the torque converter? Dosent make sense
@TrapperAaron my 89 F150 C6 automatic transmission had a drain plug on the torque converter, makes perfect sense. Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter, not all ford converters have them.
@@TrapperAaron It Makes perfect sense. Every 4r70 I’ve seen , car or truck, between 1994-2002 had a drain bolt on the torque converter. It’s a drain plug. For draining. Which is something you should do if you changing the transmission fluid. Just dropping the pan will only get you maybe 5 quarts. On average; Between the pan & filter, transmission cooler, and torque converter. The 4r70 holds close to 12-13 quarts. Although it’s nearly impossible to flush the transmission cooler itself on some fords because they have a thermostat integrated into the transmission cooler. This was implemented to allow for the transmission to reach operating temperature faster. So unless there is a flush machine that heats the atf to 180 degrees which I’ve never heard of or seen; the cooler can’t be flushed. This means you would have to replace the cooler if it ever became contaminated
After pan drop, filter change, magnet clean, and refill, many times on many vehicles I have taken the cooler line loose and added fluid through the fill port while someone starts the engine … Pan never runs dry this way and with a piece of clear tubing running to your drain pan you can visibly see the color change of the fluid.
In any case thank you for caring enough about the customer's vehicle to get more old fluid out and more new fluid in!
We do this often in Australia... It's your last chance to save a trans sometimes... ,😂
Old school here, damn Mike, and I thought I was the only one who cared.
Interesting points Mike
Absolutely on the trans cooler lines. I didn't think I would know when to stop, but it's amazing how much different old and new trans fluid looks. It doesn't fade clearer and clearer making it difficult to know when to stop, no. It almost abruptly changes from iced tea colored to Kool-Aid red. Very satisfying to see.
@@imgonnagogetthepapersgetth8347 The way to do it is pump into a a large fluid container (I used a 2.5 gallon oil jug) so you know how much goes out versus what you're putting in.
A Man Who Likes His Job 🎉 TO Bad there's not More Techs Like you My Man ❤
Best way I found was to drop all I could refill and repeat until it came out clean! It’s a hassle but you get all the old fluid out by letting the trans flush it self out!
Would it kill manufacturers to put a drain plug in the trans?
Yes, it would, which is why they don't do it. You're not meant to easily change anything about the most sensitive piece of equipment on your vehicle.
Unfortunately that's not how automatic transmissions work. It's not like the engine oil dump. The trans pan will generally only hold 1/3 of the total fluid capacity
my 16 honda has one. Square insert just stick a breaker bar straight into it, drain and fill then use check bolt to check level. however my zf trans on my 4 series is a different job
hondas have done this at least since the gen 5 (1994). gen 6 also has an internal filter that is designed to flush when you do a drain and refill.
I have two of them on my trans! A drain plug and a fill plug.
Amen even a drain and fill a few times is better than any machine.
Unhook both lines at trans cooler or radiato and connect hoses on each one. One going to a bucket with clean fluid and the other pumping into an empty bucket. It will suck up the new fluid and flush out the old. Once it comes out clean shut if off, reconnect lines and run it while checking level. If it's too high unhook the return line and run it to pump some fluid out and recheck after reconnecting lines or use a hose on a hand siphon down the fill tube if it has one to remove fluid as well.
The cooler return doesn't run though any kind of pump. It is a pressurized return from the cooler feed. It cannot suck. You'll be left with 2 buckets, one full of clean ATF and an empty trans sump and one with a few quarts of dirty ATF.
@@lukemalloy2488 great catch man. Idk how this method worked for this fellow. Science/mechanics never lie
Saved me the typing.
Well try it for yourself and see. Did it several times on a 4r70w in a 96 tbird. Did it on a 4l60e I'm a 98 Chevy as well
@@lukemalloy2488 talking about the lines coming from the trans to the cooler, not leaving the lines connected at the cooler and disconnecting at the trans
I get what you’re saying and doing, and I’m all of mechanics educating people about their cars. But you know people are gonna pick out every misspoken word and such.
Please keep doing what you’re doing man
Thanks Wesley
Grown folks talking, F them kids 😅
@@16Sammie absolutely, just wanted to share my appreciation for his time and effort. I’ll keep watching, probably learn a few things.
@@wesleywlee Your intentions are good I’m sure but you’re wrong objectively. All advice isn’t good advice. The vast majority of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter which holds it hostage regardless of how long you leave the pan off.
Please only encourage people after you’ve checked the validity of their credentials or information.
You said of instead of for... just needed to point that out. 😊
All the commenters with their fancy flush methods; the drain and fill method used here is a much safer way to exchange fluid in a transmission particularly with older/high mileage vehicles. By doing this you prevent metallic debris from getting lodged in the valve body.
This dude knows what he's doing.
YES! A 3x drain and fill is my gold standard. I will do the pan drop, filter change and first refill. Drive for a tank of gas and drain and fill again (I’ll notice some wear metal and debris, likely coming loose from the detergency of new ATF), then drive it for another tank and repeat. This last drain is just fluid and I never see any wear metals or debris on the third run. After that, it’s every other oil change until the fluid is predominantly red and I switch to 30k intervals.
Yep that’s what am planning to do, simple and easy, anything else might as well take it in
@@BrandonWest87 Ace! Yes, if a simple pan drain-and-fil removes 50% of the total amount, then 3x pan drain-and-fills will exchange 90% of the total amount. That's just mathematics.
You can do a perfectly serviceable full fluid exchange by disconnecting a transmission cooler line and letting the transmission pump the fluid into your receptacle as you add fluid to the transmission.
Interesting
That's a good idea but bad for the front pump on the transmission.
I never done it that way. Too risky. Just add a pan with a plug and change the oil via the pan every time you change the oil.
Also to get a little more fluid out u can drain from radiator and hoses if u are trying to get the most out of you really want to get active with it flush out the transmission radiator to get out out sediment from your system
Some people hate Saturns but they had the right idea when it came to transmission fluid. It had a filter just like and engine oil filter and a drain plug. You could change the fluid easy as an oil change.
O wow, never knew that. Thanks.i got to look into that
@Online Mechanic Tips I'm not sure what years were like that but I had a late 90s saturn car that way. I remember guys taking the trans filter off at an oil change place I worked at thinking it was the oil filter.
Woooo!! I had 3 Saturns, and never knew that!! SL2 5sd, SL1 Auto both 94’s and one 97 SL Auto … Damm cars ran flawlessly forever!! Good on gas too out that Toyota branded motor 👍🏽😂
Very cool idea for those of us who have project cars I'm definitely doing this on my tahoe project now😁
i usually change the filter n refill, then put the cooler lines in buckets, suction line in a full of new fluid one and an empty for the other, run it till its clean as, check level and adjust, done 👌 uses alot of fluid that way but i dont mind as it ends up in the fuel tank of my old diesel truck anyway 😂
You can do that?
@@Petem7668 the flush? Yeah just make sure you get the lines in the right orientation or you'll end up with an air pocket. Or you mean running an old mechanical injection diesel on used oil? Yeah you can, usually filter it through a reuseable shopping bag and put it in the tank, though if i think the oil might have water in it, i put it in a separate tank and drain out the bottom litre or so a week later to see if its "wet" otherwise in the tank it goes, best results from 50/50 diesel to oil, but a hot summer, 100% used oil works. Just hard to start if its cold overnight
@@Colt45hatchback you answered both perfectly, thanks for answering and passing on the knowledge. I’m still pretty new to all of this and I’ll definitely look more into it and be using this.
I disconnected my tranny hose from the radiator into a pan then start it up and let it push ALL the fluid out when it starts to run out shut it off refill it and do it again. U will watch fluid go from black to brown to red and I have done this on over 40 different types of vehicles and never had a issue except awesome results...this completely drains the torque converter. You can blow the radiator/trans cooler with a air hose
I never use power tools on transmission work.
My truck is a 1997 model and I don't want to break any screws.
Good job man 👊🏻💥🇲🇽
I like to spray break clean on the valve body and let it drain can get the varnish out of them and get them unstuck have a blessed day today 🙏
I knew an old guy who would slightly raise the vehicle. He would run a clear tube from the return (dirty) line into a marked bucket and add fluid at the same rate. He had done it enough times to know fast he would need to add. The only problems I saw with his system was #1 You needed to be 100% focused. One on the bucket and one eye on your supply. #2 Unless you were fast (really fast) you kind of needed a helper to shut down the engine as soon as you were done. I forget when the guy passed away, maybe mid 2000's, so newer transmissions may be a lot less "forgiving" to being a little under or over filled.
Thanks for the video! It along with some of the comments answered my questions.
On my personal vehicles I do two changes back to back the first change will mix what’s left of the dirty fluid and then the second will be completely fresh
I do a drain and fill on my old Toyota's transmissions at every oil change. Cheap insurance and they staying feeling new. Never drop the pans and drive them half a million miles. Rust eventually takes everything out, lol.
My transmission filter got clogged I noticed the transmission fluid was black and wouldn't drive I changed the filter and fluid and it drives good now but the transmission fluid turned black again do you recommend I change the fluid s second time
@@boostedkidproductions9719 You're overheating the fluid. Run a cooler and extra fluid to accommodate the cooler.
@@boostedkidproductions9719 something else is the issue. Like someone said it might be overheating. Does the transmission whine going up hill? You could have the fluid tested for degradation at dealership. It will tell you exactly if the fluid is degrading from what.
@@boostedkidproductions9719 also change the fluid couple of times because the torque converter holds a lot of fluid. Might be black because mixed in with the oil fluid.
That's what I need to do to my '89 Chevy Caprice. It needs its trans fluid and filter change. What I would do is fill the transmission fluid up, run it, shut the engine off. Disconnect the trans return line from the radiator, connect it to a long rubber hose. Put the end of it into a big bucket, plastic container, etc. Start the car, with the hose in the bucket. As the car is running, watch the trans fluid change from a dark brownish color to a bright red. I saw this done on RUclips.
On my 03 Ranger I pulled the trans cooler lines and started the truck. Added fluid while the trans pumped out the old. Once it turned bright red its flushed. This was all after dropping the pan and changing the filter.
To Swap All ATF, You can run engine with cooler lines disconnected. Have one line sucking new fluid and other in drain pan. Run transmission through gears.
Is the technique you’re referring to bad for the transmission? Would a drain/fill be better than a flush? Can you please elaborate? Thanks
@@drpthemc older Hondas recommend like that through AllData repair.
2003 and newer Honda recommends to drain pan/case 3x and you get like 90% of fluid changed. I would NOT flush transmission with flushing machine. Usually just stirs up contamination and creates problems down the road
I did this to change the strainer after 200k miles. Everything was very clean and strainer barely had any particles in it. But I changed my transmission oil every 50k miles.
Yank a trans line off, put a drain pan under it and start the car. The trans pump will evacuate the fluid for you. Then reattach the line and refill. Easy peasy and no pan. Good trick between filter changes
I've never understood why most trans pans don't have a drain plug. Thankfully my f250 does so I just drain it once a year and refill. I'll change the filter this year too.
Because transmission last long enough to make it out of warranty with out being serviced they don't what them to last for ever.
You run the transmission while draining at the cooler and filling at the dipstick until ir runs pink and clean. Then fill to correct level.
The fluid is not my main focus, its the filter. I just try to get out as much fluid as possible
But that is the correct way to flush a transmission . I change the filter after I flush one
@@TheFORDman256 yes, but with the pan on..I have the pan off this car. Imo a flush job is risky and worthless if it does not include changing the filter. If you doing them both, good for you my friend
Or unhook the cooler lines let gravity bleed to plus the cooler or use compressed air out of your air compressor turn down the regulator on the compressor
Plus whoever said Fords use to have a drain plug in the converter I've used made a magnetic drill bit drilled the converter tapped in with pipe thread tap put a quarter inch pipe plug in it I've also started it up real quick let it pump itself out I'm 63 my dad owned operated a Standard Oil Station for 52+yrs 60 total plus an friend that taught how to rebuild trans taught me these things. That you can just stay over a little bit get the job done then that day so when you come in tomorrow morning it's a whole new day nothing weighing you down overnight go home or the tavern for a cold six pack drink one take 6 home with you done that many times picked a young lady when I wasn't married women seemed to love a hard working man in a uniform even use to carry a clean uniform with in car ,truck whatever I had sometimes drove a customers vehicle trouble shooting staying one step ahead for in the morning tomorrow even did that when I worked at the dealership and after I built my own three bay three in ground lifts service center have to always be thinking how to stay ahead of the game making your life easier
While the filter is important, the fluid should be your main focus. Your method is called a ATF change, not flush. A change will will only take about a 1/3 out. Listen to others who say to use the transmission cooler line method.
Smdh, this is not a flush job..This customer paid for a trans service with a filter change. Im leaving the pan off to gravity bleed as much of the old fluid out as possible. And IMO, the filter more important than the fluid being changed. This fluid can take a beating and not break down but that filter can get restricted from internal wear/debri and cause a major break down.
@@OnlineMechanicTips your way is the correct way. Filters plug and crack. If you find a broken snap ring on the magnet you can save your customer a Lotta cash avoiding a catastrophic failure. Loosen the valve body bolts if you want to get even more out of the convertor. A flush machine will not allow you to get everything out like people think.
@@OnlineMechanicTips This right here.
I do a 3x drain and fill with a filter change on the first run. After that I just drain and fill every 30k. Thanks for the video brother. Your one about plugging intake holes in the heads with the snapped off HF pry bar was a pucker moment I’ve lived through too 😅
@@OnlineMechanicTips
You can remove the filter entirely and the fluid does the entire job.
Remove the fluid
And rely on the ‘more important filter’
I’ll hold on
What about using two or more galons of oil to make the fluid clearer with every cycle? Does the cooler line method use less ATF?
Line in line out on cooler lines no need for machine. Did mine 20,000 miles works great.
Most of it's still on the converter. However you should drop the pan. Clean it and change filter.
Its the best and only way it should be done. Filters are cheaply made and break down plus removing the pan lets you take a look
I always catch the old fluid in case the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly. Always a good way without a dipstick to measure what you need to put back in.
If the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly, you probably need a new trans. And the old one was on the way out, putting the old friction into the trans is a band-aid.
@Audi Aug 815 Listen if the transmission shifts like shit and brought it in and wont with new fluid its gone. But some people dont have money like that old fluid back in will get it off my lift
@@CodyDoesIt You have no idea how much sense your comment doesn’t make. For the love of all things holy, please tell me that you only work on your vehicles in your imagination? Never touch a real one please.
@@bigwheel9132 haven’t done this before but you have to understand that some people don’t have expendable income. Meaning that doing it right is not an option for them. It could be food on their table for their family vs a proper transmission flush.
@@JonTheTeaManespecially in today's world where 50 % of the country is living paycheck to paycheck
if a trans filter is the metal mesh screen type like in toyotas, then changing is a waste of time. those filters will only catch catastrophic chunks which means it's screwed at that point anyways. contaminants are left in fluid suspension, and the pan magnets catch the usual filings.
Interesting
I did this once and was surprised how much more came out.
For a more complete drain, the torque converter needs to be drained. My last vehicle that had one was a 1976 Dodge 1 ton. Senseless that many auto manufacturers eliminated this feature.
They got rid of drain plug in converter because it got in the way in a lockup converter.
Your absolutely right, the torque converter will always hold at least 2 or more quarts depending on the size of it.
Why don't they put dreams on torque one on each side would bounce it
I've seen drains on some converters, can't remember which one it was but they did make them with a drain.
have bought a fiat 500 with 100,000 miles on the automatic transmission & never changed before so decided to easy drain 2-3 quarts at a time and drive to see how it handled the new fluid..did this about 5 times while I tried to measure out same as I put in while I ordered the dips tick it never had..a few more changes and it might start to get red..but so far still dark...I wanted to try a cooling line flush but figured it might be too much ..so far no issues!
In older cars we would pull the pan and when it was almost finished dripping we would start the engine for about 2 or 3 seconds and shut it off, pumping more fluid out, we'd remove the torque converter drain on Ford's
Whoa, T/conv drains?
@@OnlineMechanicTips I'm not sure if Ford's still have them or not, but in older Ford Lincoln and Mercury had a drain plug in them, I worked at a gas station back in the late 80's and early 90's afte that.r that I'm not sure I just did mechanic work, oil change guys did all
* thought it was easy* proceed on going on RUclips after watching the video , I am ready to take it to the dealership.
take it to a dependable trans shop.
@@frankm4277True. Or just do it yourself. Some of these car projects are super easy with the help of tutorial videos. If someone isn't comfortable doing the job, definitely take it to a dependable shop as you stated earlier.
After reading a lot of these comments, I’d like to Thank Ya’ll for keeping me in business the last 48 years (I fix Cars/Transmissions aka Mechanic) some of the things ya’ll “say” you do will actually damage a Transmission. By the way keep on doing only partial oil changes on your Transmissions and while you’re at it why don’t ya’ll just do partial oil changes on your engines too, us Mechanics need the business. What a lot of people call a “Transmission Flush is actually a “Fluid Exchange w/Filter” and requires the proper Equipment/Machine to ensure no Damage is done to the Transmission. Keep on going folks we want your Money….. er’ Business I mean.😊
😂😂😂
Believe it or not in the old days on the turbo 350s and the turbo 400s we actually used to drill into the torque converter and then we would plug it with a rivet with a permatex. Yep… did it all the time and never ever had a leak.
You are a good guy!
Thanks Peter
TOTALLY ACCEPTABLE!!!!
While the oil drain plug is out, i crank the engine on a few times. That way it drains the oil filter before I remove it off my 4.0 Tacoma. I also think it helps flush it out better. If the oil light comes on I don’t crank the engine anymore.
Looks like the pan on my 2008 Dodge Dakota. Easy filter replacement it looked just like that. No drain plug so you had to remove the pan just like this.
Take the transmission cooler line off at the bottom of the radiator and start it. Let it pump all the fluid out.
Disconnect the coolant line from the radiator and let it pump through the filter and torque converter. Once the fluid starts to sputter add new fluid until your trans has clear read fluid. Your toque converter holds half your trans fluid.
Clutches break down over time and that material goes into the filter. Also, sometimes filters can (in rare cases) break down with age. Heat cycles also plays a role in trans fluid breakdown. Trans fluid doesn’t get dark and lose its lubrication abilities on its own…
In all the vehicles I have had serviced, there was a noticeable improvement in shifting. both my american and foreign vehicles.
Lastly, why do you think higher end performance cars have a 1k mile transmission break in before getting the filter/fluid changed and then a 25k transmission service afterwards? Things wear down.
My 04 Ram 4x4 with the 545RFE transmission required trans service every 30k. Those are known for being bulletproof..wonder why? 🤔
@@BrandonWest87 do you do a flush or drain/fill?
Ater that i usually disconnect the like that pumps into the radiator, turn it on or have someone turn it on for a bit. Turn it off check the amount u pulled put some new. Then repeat until clean 👍
If a transmission has more than 100K on it never ever do a transmission flush. If you do then you have a 90% chance of the transmission failing. This transmission might still be saved by just a new filter and fluid. This guy is doing it correctly. Good job.
I’ve had that happen 🤬.
Learning something new everyday
Learned nothing the torque converter hold as much as the pan and none of it is draining out when do this.
You can flush it with 2 buckets and unhooking the cooler lines at the front. 1 bucket with fresh fluid on the return line
If you take the time and inquire what takes place with a flush most places do not change the filter and use the same machine for flushes (cross fluid contamination). That is like taking a bath after everyone else has and putting your crusty undies back on and then claiming "I'm clean"!!!
I love tra misson services
This is the only way to go. Filters crack, screens plug, debris collects on the magnet. I have saved people from catastrophic failures using this method.
Got 4 of the 12 quarts out. 😆 the flush machines I used were 16 quarts pushed through around 12 qt capacity so it nearly gets it all.
Wrong, got close to 8 or 9.. This was a trans service job. I would of pulled out the flush machine had she bought a flush.. If you didn't change the filter, you did the car a dis service imo.
For a long time mercedes had torque converter drain plugs. Was a sad year when they stopped doing that.
Send some air into the filter port slowly and watch a few quarts come out
Change the filter, refill the pan, pull the line off at the radiator and put a rubber hose into a bucket. Start the engine and dump fluid down the fill tube until the fluid runs out clean.
Torque converter is still full of old dirty fluid. You should drain it, Fill it and drive it around the block and drain and fill and repeat until the fluid is clean
Old transmissions don't like all the fluid changed at once anyway. 👍
Wow you dropped a pan for what is called a FLUID EXCHANGE not a flush must of been so hard for you great work man🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡👏
But I'm not doing a fluid exchange. This a trans service
@@OnlineMechanicTips yup which includes a fluid exchange as part of the service👍
@@Leothelion357 I never said this a flush job Mr slow man, keep up
@@OnlineMechanicTips literally said “as close to a flush as possible”🤦♂️
A duhhhh it’s a fluid exchange
@@Leothelion357 Its a trans service. A fluid exchange is when you only changing the fluid, which is point less. And btw saying "as close to a flush as possible" is not the same as saying its a flush. I dont do trans flush jobs. But since this is RUclips, you welcome to make a video and show the public how you role on your channel, thats what I did over here on my channel.
Well, I’ve been in automotive for a long time. “In most cases “ servicing your transmission AT LEAST every 15 to 30,000 miles DEPENDING on driving conditions it most important. Including “lifetime fluid “(check out Scotty Kilmer on that fluid) . As far as flushing versus draining and refilling it depends on the history and type of transmission as well as if there are any symptoms.
That being said, when a transmission flush is done fully and CORRECTLY with no prior symptoms with factory or better(I prefer better) fluid with a good friction modifier not a transmission fixer( especially with no prior symptoms) a transmission fluid flush is awesome!!! If the transmission is slipping some prior to service, well, you either have a problem that will get worse anyway or a fluid breakdown that a real , properly done flush will fix. If you do not flush the transmission either with slippage or overdue a drain and fill can actually damage it!! You are mixing about half old fluid (in most cases) with nice new fluid with a lot of detergents in it. The new fluid cleans the transmission insides, the old fluid weakens the new stuff and all the gunk gets dumped into your filters and you end up with fluid starvation!! So either drain and fill BEFORE it gets bad or PROPERLY FLUSH IT. If you have a problem after a correct service you would have had a problem anyway. But good luck on finding anyone that can do a proper flush!!!!!
So drain and fill every 15,000 to 30,000 !!!!
My personal experience with a transmission slipping on a 1994 Nissan Quest minivan is I tried flushing it. I used a BG flush machine, BG pre cleaner and afterwards BG AT conditioner. The car was driven some with the pre cleaner( it was slipping on hills) and during the flush it was raised up and the wheels were spinning. It fixed the slippage and was good up to the day I sold it 3, yes, THREE YEARS LATER!!! As I stated it depends.
So take care of your expensive overpriced car!!!
Did wife's crv after draining, put shop vac on drain hole. Full amount refill with 6oz Lucas oil
A flush is not wat you did. Also. Ppl should not do an actual flush unless the transmission has actual issues. If it don’t have issues then yes just a pan drop and filter replacement then top fluid back off is all you should do. PERIOD
First off I never said this was a flush, second, a flush will not fix anything. If you have issues now, you will still have issues after a flush
Actually if you have actual issues starting with a transmission probably the worst time to do a flush. lot of time it's material in the oil acting as your clutchs. It's best to make sure you do your pan evey 50k or even 30k depending on what you are doing with the vehicle. At the very least change it ever 5 years to keep the amount of water in it to a very minimum. And never do a flush with a machine or as cleaning chemicals to transmission.
@@t-bfr45-70 interesting take you have on it.
Use brake cleaner, evaporates and cleans very well. Well do it myself all the time. 313.
I get an extra qrt and pour it through and let it drain b4 i re install filter and pan. THATS A FLUSH
great videos brother keep it up
Thanks for watching my guy
I don’t drink either also but if you can’t take criticism. Stay of the air. Nobody has to AGREE WITH YOU LOL
Pan off services will generally only exchange about 1/3 of the total fluid volume.
compare what you get out to the specified capacity. much less than 33%
i felt like if the glove was teaching me a transmission flush😊
Grew up in a transmission shop. NEVER flush a transmission. Guaranteed failure if you do. Drain, replace filter, refill - that's it.
Totally agree
You’re full of Crap… 48 years I’ve been servicing and repairing Cars/Transmissions and have literally flushed Thousands of transmissions and have NEVER had a Transmission fail by doing a flush… That’s like saying “Never change all of your engine oil because your engine will fail” What a Moron
@Banana Lots of times you flush a high mileage or neglected trans and it no longer works when you're done.
✌🍩
Flushing a trans with low miles on it and keeping up with it, won’t hurt it. When you wait until it has 150k on it or more, can sometimes wake up a problem. It doesn’t create the problem, it just cleans it out. When the clutches wear down, they lose friction. The friction material remains in the old fluid and the trans still works. Once you clean that out, bam.
I'm late but I have a jeep zj what if I wanna change my solenoids etc as well in the trans is that bad too?
Should of seen this Trans I was working on, lts and a different dealer did the rnr of the Trans. It had soo much metal in it the globs felt like clay. Almost looked like the silver paint they use to coat the Trans. The worst tans iv seen with less than 500 mile on it lmao soooo much metal.
Why aren’t you showing the torque converter being drained? It holds quarts and mixes quickly with the new fluid?????
This is a 60 second RUclips shorts video my guy. I explained everything that I was doing. Besides, theres no Torque Convertor drain procedure.
As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS mechanic I've been questioned many times on that subject. First thing is out sight out mind; just like the owners manual!!! ( unread )
Changing or flushing ever thirty or fifty thousand miles is OK. But if you have not done the recommended maintenance and now there seems to be a problem ( eighty/hundred thousand miles ) changing or flushing will probably exacerbate the PROBLEM!!!!
Ever been questioned about how to spell Cummins? Probly not certified.... @ spelling....I bet
If you’re afraid of losing the precious gunk inside the transmission, you can always drain and fill without lowering the pan, and better fluid quality will make transmission work better
Drain, fill with new, drive for ten minutes. Repeat five times. Final drain, remove the pan and replace the filter, reseal pan, fill to spec. Takes longer but is more thorough
Yes, I was so hoping at some point you would mention the filter. But yes, this make sense.
I don't know how it is now but in the past i know a few jobs made things worse or caused problems with a flush.
For me no flush just a drain and change
Buddy torque converter...can drip all day and still have alot of old fluid. But hey a breaker bar is an extension
Yep, you're good
This is the next best option to a BG trans flush machine.
There's a drain plug in the converter that's how you get the rest of the fluid out or flush it for the transmission coolant line with new fluid
No convertor drain plug on this transmission.
Drill a 1/8 the inch hole in the torque converter right where the 2 halves are welded together ,only drill thru one layer of the converter shell make sure the hole is at the bottom let it drain ,then next morning, clean the hole and put a nice spot weld to close it back up , now you just got about 95 plus percent of the trans fluid out of the transmission
Iv seen guys pull the cooler lines off put the return line in a bucket of clean fluid and drop the sending line in an empty bucket. Run the engine and let it cycle that fluid through. Not sure of thats a good idea or not but iv seen it done
Great job!.🫵🏾
Thats what I did with my truck I let it sit for 48 hours with the pan off and just refilled it after I got everything put back together
Literally did this today at work for a dodge
That's what's up
Lol you never gone get it all out had me cracking up but good video helped me out
Its just as good as leaving it over night until the next day to drain it out
Waste a few quarts of cheaper, but for the application store brand fluid before service. Suck two or three out with a cheap harbor freight evacuator the add back. Do it before service with filter and it comes out much more clean in the end.
Good. Man !!
I just use the pump disconnect the high pressure line start the vehicle pump the transmission down till the line spits then shut it off your system is the cleanest it will ever be without fully dismantling it, some vehicles will require you to put transmission in neutral to engage the pump/ ie dodge but if you do this when cold and only engage the neutral part of transmission it won't damage the transmission done this on so many vehicles I can't count, and never had a return for transmission issues
You're getting maybe a third, half at the most, of the fluid out. Leaving it overnight makes it a little less messy but only gets a couple more ounces.
What ever more I get out by letting it drain over night is a bonus. Im aware Im not going to get it all out nor am I trying to. This is simply a transmission service job sold with the intensions of getting as much out as possible, This is not flush job.
more like 15%
@@AudioFreqx Thats considered more than usual.
Anything that’s got 100,000+ do not wanna flush it unless you have a service history on it because it may not leave the lift
Never had an issue then again the vehicles weren’t too old and both were manual so idk if that has an effect 🤔
I had a transmission shop tell me that years ago while having the transmission rebuilt on my dodge ram. He said that many of the vehicles that come into his shop are within 500 miles after being flushed. He recommended that if the transmission hadn't been regularly flushed out that you only do a fluid change because when you flush a transmission that hasn't been regularly maintained it can knock a lot of the built-up gunk loose that can clog filters and lines that will lead to complete failure. That being said, flushing is the best option as long as it's done fairly often on a regular basis.
@@awdeveau HI. Just wanted to chime in real quick. I have heard that also. But I have worked in a dealerships for over 30 years and used BG flush machines for alot of those years. Now im not saying that the theory is wrong because I have actually witnessed it happening once. (not to me) Although, one time out of hundreds, the odds aren't good for that story. Anyways, if it was a fear, couldn't you have the customer sign a waiver of some type stating that it could ruin the trans and they still want to move forward with the flush?
@@midnightrider1854 the "reverse flush" that some shops sell will kill them damn near every time.
That said, I just simply change the fluid and filter (gets 6-7 quarts out of a 14 quart system) every 25k when the manufacturer calls for 50k changes.
Fluid is expensive, but not that expensive.
@@leftyeh6495 I suppose that depends on how bad the trans fluid is, and if the services have been kept up. But I have done a lot of filter and drains as well. I just always preferred the method of completely removing the fluid.
Hook air up to the filler hole and start a pumping
I like your videos! I learn a lot from them. I do have a question for you though, we have an old big v8 van and we need to really flush the coolant system, what would you say the best way to go about it would be? We took it to a local shop and now it runs 10xs worse, it's not even being driven bc of what they did or didn't do. So me and my son will do it ourselves! With your help hopefully! Thanks
42RLE trans there. Pull the valve body screws loose and brake the seal between the valve body and case. That will allow the converter to drain about half way out. Otherwise it will remain full. Don't worry about the clutch feed seal above the valve body, its rubber and be fine when you re-rorque the valve body. Better use atf+4 so you don't get TCC lockup shudder. Remember your new filter o ring!
when I do my engine oil change, I let it drip for 24hrs. It gets an additional 150 to 200ml of dirty oil out of the system. That is about 6oz of dirty oil that would normally remain in the system without the overnight drip.
wow, amazing
As close as you can get without waist, drain fill run , drain fill gets a bit more but you waste a bit of new oil
That is simply a service. A flush consist of a transfer machine which gets rid of all the old fluid.
Thats not what a flush is 💀 you call him out for doing a service then call the same service a flush. Go learn something in a real shop
@Manni- so wrong , a flush is a transfer of fluid wish old one comes aout like the guy up to stated ,this is a drain a fill you should go to a real shop 👌
Imagine that, thats what I said it was. A typical trans service with a extra attempt to get out as much fluid as possible
@@Dankneefantum no you can't get that
@@OnlineMechanicTips your absolutely correct. Had to go back and listen again.
This is better than a power flush anyway. This way, no crud gets washed up into the valves and stuck there permanently.
If you drain it while it’s hot you’ll drain the torque converter too at least that’s how the Buick was 12 quarts later I found out the trans has a thermostat too
You can disconnect the lines that go to the radiator and run it for a few seconds in average 1 qrt.every 3 seconds. So after filling up the transmission you can get the most out of course not all cars have this type of set up knowing that some will have integrated coolers and that make it difficult but 65 percent of vehicles can be done like I mentioned before.
Very interesting my friend.
@@OnlineMechanicTips you want to see it i might make a video about it.
@@abbsgarage.9676 Sure man, go for it. I would love to see how you do it. I didn't know you had a mechanic channel. Imma head over and check out some of them videos when I get home.