Once you have measured the fall from.one end to the other, just pull a string line on the top of the pipes from collar to collar to make sure the fall is consistent. Easier and quicker tha n trying to guess with a spirit level
Anybody alive out there, that can remember laying salt glazed pipes with tar based tow and cement and sand ? Then building the inspection chambers in brick. Plastic pipes make it as easy as falling off a log and why not? who wants to go back to those days. I'm so glad to be long retired from all that.
Our recommendation is to surround all buried pipes with pea shingle or similar aggregate to avoid puncturing or crushing them when compacting. When the soil settles over time or the ground is loaded in some other way (traffic, building...). The pea shingle will "flow" around the pipe and fill any voids underneath better than many other options
There is more than one way to use a level. In this case as described in the video, the bubble is not central but used to make sure the fall is consistent.
Many levels have multiple lines on them, when the bubble is between the center two lines then it's level. But on the level he used (and I use) there are 2 or more lines outside of the center ones, the outermost line normally correspondents with the 1:40 fall, when the bubble touches that line you're okay.
The pipe needs some flexibility in case there is slight ground movement, otherwise pipes could crack. Regarding concrete sticking to the pipe - the polythene or fibre board is to stop the concrete adhering to the building structure.
@@drainfast-uk Thank you, that's very helpful. Fiberboard to keep the concrete From sticking to the stricture? Is it not part of the foundation? Guess I assumed you would be pouring a slab?
also if you block it with some waist like cemenet or pplatering ,you can replace only one section you dont need to brake all the ground floor or basement , + is standar 600 mm movemnt BS
We understand that every building site may be different and people may have a prefrence or diffrent methods that work as effective. This video is mainly for a broad demonstration purposes.
Preferences can differ depending on the groundworker, all methods can vary. If you get the same result from the practice you've been taught then there is no wrong way.
Isn't it Better practice to use mf elbows and pipe with collars. So the male end of elbow can go into the collar end of pipe and so on.. less chance of getting a leak.. the was you've piped that up the rubber seal is under stress from passing water.
It might be better practice but the method demonstrated is widley used across the industry, passes inspection and does not put the rubber seal under stress.
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Well articulated, precisely done
Thank you
Once you have measured the fall from.one end to the other, just pull a string line on the top of the pipes from collar to collar to make sure the fall is consistent. Easier and quicker tha n trying to guess with a spirit level
I totally agree I guess having a filming crew might play with ur nervs
Thanks for the tip
Anybody alive out there, that can remember laying salt glazed pipes with tar based tow and cement and sand ? Then building the inspection chambers in brick. Plastic pipes make it as easy as falling off a log and why not? who wants to go back to those days. I'm so glad to be long retired from all that.
So what happens when the ground sags? Will the gravel stay in place?
Our recommendation is to surround all buried pipes with pea shingle or similar aggregate to avoid puncturing or crushing them when compacting. When the soil settles over time or the ground is loaded in some other way (traffic, building...). The pea shingle will "flow" around the pipe and fill any voids underneath better than many other options
@@drainfast-uk thanks, I’m a bit biased. We have such lovely ground that everything has to be piled.
Omg that was an amazing job editing.
You did a great job Christhian, thanks again
1 inch in forty inch full on sewer pipes always has been. I've installed them forty years never been called back for a blockage.
So you want to lay it at a slope but check it's flat with a level?
There is more than one way to use a level. In this case as described in the video, the bubble is not central but used to make sure the fall is consistent.
Many levels have multiple lines on them, when the bubble is between the center two lines then it's level.
But on the level he used (and I use) there are 2 or more lines outside of the center ones, the outermost line normally correspondents with the 1:40 fall, when the bubble touches that line you're okay.
Why does the pipe need the flexability? You stated at the elbow to place a material to prevent the concrete from sticking to the pipe.
The pipe needs some flexibility in case there is slight ground movement, otherwise pipes could crack. Regarding concrete sticking to the pipe - the polythene or fibre board is to stop the concrete adhering to the building structure.
@@drainfast-uk Thank you, that's very helpful. Fiberboard to keep the concrete From sticking to the stricture? Is it not part of the foundation? Guess I assumed you would be pouring a slab?
also if you block it with some waist like cemenet or pplatering ,you can replace only one section you dont need to brake all the ground floor or basement , + is standar 600 mm movemnt BS
TY. I understood some of that. Im a diy.
Don't you think slope is too much. I use 2 inches for 6 metre pipe
We understand that every building site may be different and people may have a prefrence or diffrent methods that work as effective. This video is mainly for a broad demonstration purposes.
@@drainfast-ukSir , I thought for a moment, I am wrongly laying the pipes
@@RavinderKumar-r9k Not at all, methods can be different depending on various factors and preferences. 😊
"Don't you think slope is too much. I use 2 inches for 6 metre pipe" No wonder we are all confused...LOL! Inches and Metres....LOL!
You Gotta invest in a grading level us aussies use, trusting brickwork to measure from is the most rookie thing iv ever seen at least use a laser
Exactly what I was thinking, at least get the laser out 😂
@@Dleweyybro wtf are they doing in the uk 😂 that shit is embarrassing
Steve
should make slope from base then lay the pipe
Preferences can differ depending on the groundworker, all methods can vary. If you get the same result from the practice you've been taught then there is no wrong way.
Isn't it Better practice to use mf elbows and pipe with collars. So the male end of elbow can go into the collar end of pipe and so on.. less chance of getting a leak.. the was you've piped that up the rubber seal is under stress from passing water.
It might be better practice but the method demonstrated is widley used across the industry, passes inspection and does not put the rubber seal under stress.
@@drainfast-uk it's definitely got more chance of leaking fact
So you want to lay it at a slope but check it's flat with a level?
If some inspector passes this ….he doesn’t know what he is at either .
Don’t be said by this video .
What specifically do you object to?
Is this a joke
No, but this is: what kind of bird works in the construction industry? A crane.
No you set a Lazer set fall in the Lazer do it right these lads haven't a clue
Both options can work fine depending on the job at hand.
lol what you onabout you don’t need laser for internal drainage 😂