Thanks for the tip on hitting the tight spots first. I was doing the opposite. I find that I am spraying air more than frame because the nozzle of a can isn't designed for such a small target. I am tempted to get a proper spray gun where I can tune the nozzle and delivery rate. I guess that brings a lot of complication with regard to paint mixing and equipment cleaning.
I agree that it makes things a lot more complicated. For example it’s not uncommon for a painter to have three separate guns. One for primer, another for base and another for clear. That being said, I’m super happy with how mine turned out. If you have time, check my channel for the build I did with this frame, turned out pretty nice. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
That’s weird, when I spray painted my bmx bikes frame I used a paint stripper and it worked great, it was either Krylon or Rustolium aircraft remover, pretty sure it was Rustolium brand and not Krylon. It came out as a wet foamy liquid and after five minutes all the paint was fizzing and bubbling up and then 10 minutes of wiping all of the paint off and I was pretty much done, after I got all the paint and the paint remover off the frame I had so sand a little bit on the welds to get the rest off but in total it took less than an hour to have my frame completely down to the bare metal.
+tricksonafixed usually there will be some scratches left from using the heavier grit sandpaper, or anywhere there is still some old paint left on the frame. It’s hard to see what the frame will look like until you get a solid coat on and primer is very easy to sand. Sand any of these spots with a 320 grit. Hope that helps?
That’s definitely a simpler way of doing it. On a vintage frame like this with rust and a lot of imperfections people tend to want to strip and start fresh. There’s also some weight saving associated with this method. Thanks for watching.
Its like washing your hands without soap. Yeah it's water, but you'd have to scratch and rub the dirt off your hands. Which takes more effort and isn't too efficient. Yeah? So paint stripper = soap. Less time with cleaner results. Easy.
@@msk3905 If someone is watching a how to video, most likely they don’t know what they’re doing. To know how to do this kinda stuff you gotta start somewhere man, so a way that’s simpler for a beginner is what people are gonna teach ??
Encouraging and helpful video. However, I disagree on your comment that automotive paint such as Dupli-Color (lacquer not enamel which is terrible IMO) tends to flake. If it is flaking and chipping on you, this is likely due to improper substrate prep. The primer you used in this video is rather generic and not very good IMO. It also has a poor nozzle and solvent combination that causes it to spatter out of the can. But most importantly, it is not an etching primer. All metal surfaces should also be throughly degreased prior to shooting an etching primer. A better alternative yet is to shoot a catalyzed 2K primer such as SprayMax (German) or Car-Rep (Finnish). 2K primers are very stable once cured and provide an excellent surface for DC or Montana 1K base coat which won’t flake when properly applied in multiple thin coats until coverage is achieved. These lacquers flash in about 10 min so multiple coats can be shot in the space of an hour for consistent colour. But…, lacquer cannot be left as is without a protective clear coat. Tremclad basically contains the clear in it (the paint is also likely enamel based) but it’s a 1K product. The recommended clear coat for a professional finish is also a 2K clear again such as SprayMax or Car-Rep. SprayMax is an acrylic urethane 2K clear which can be applied atop any clean base coat once this has fully dried. Proper application of SprayMax gives a deep gloss which can be polished and buffed to yield professional results. The product is the same stuff that pro paint shops put in their guns. The nozzle action is also similar to that of a gun. As an option, SprayMax comes in lower solids satin and matte finishes. However, these cannot be polished as this would smooth the surface removing the scattered light satin and matte effect of these clears. The cleaning and maintenance of these finishes is also more laborious than that of gloss clears. Once fully cured (8 days or so), catalyzed 2K clears are without equal in the finishing business and result in a hard long lasting (i.e., chip proof) top coat which is also impervious to UV degradation.
Supercycle 10 Speed Bike! This was the first bike I had here in Canada. I loved it! From the good times when Supercycle used to make reasonably good bicycles. Great painting job! Congrats! Cheers.
My plan is to lightly sand the previous paint, tape the stuff i don't want paint and spray. I'm guessing about 15 minutes total. I don't care if the paint lasts forever. Change my mind. But honestly I'm hoping for constructive criticism. Thank you.
Thank you best video I’ve seen yet. I’m going for chrome on my new single speed. Much help but damn sanding seem like an unavoidable b**ch. No other option as I don’t have tools. Thx
+Liam Dawson it can be tedious for sure haha. I just take my time and enjoy the process. Thanks for checking out my video, glad you got something out of it ✌️
+klingburger ya I look at it from more of the prospective of enjoying the process and anything you build/ restore yourself is more rewarding and has more value then something bought of the shelf.
Thanks bro👍i have same cycle and i started to repaint it i search for many ideas but your idea 💡 helps me a lot🙏🙏 But cany you share how much ml of sprays which you used
I got a Electra Suzy Q lowrider but someone painted it browngold-ish and i do not like the colour i want to make it black pink but i'm a girl and i do not have elbowgrease like you xd Got any tips for me to still get rid of the brown so i can spray paint it black and pink without having the strong arms ?
Nice finish! I would have gone for a more cherry red and the full Colnago decal kit in order to get a consistent "italian look & feel" to the frame. All in all, nice job!
+Unai Ramos thanks for checking out my vid! You have a good point, I just had these couple decals laying around. With all the time spent on this frame, I guess it does deserves proper decal kit. Maybe part two haha ✌️
+G F if you use Tremclad like I did, then I wouldn’t use a clear coat, because it’s an oil based paint and the clear coat will most likely react badly ie. bubble. If you go with an automotive paint for your base colour, then in that case you can spray clear over that. Hope that helps, thanks for watching ✌️
did you sand between the last coat of paint and your first coat of clear? I am painting a frame very similar to this with tremclad professional enamel and plan to clear coat it shortly.. however, the enamel is a bit rough/textured!
No, I did not. Tremclad generally doesn’t sand great but you could try. Also be careful sometimes clears will react badly with Tremclad. I would test one small area first to make sure they get along. Good luck!!
Hmmm, not exactly what I was looking for. So there's no chemical product that can strip paint from metal with ease at home? Sanding strips away the actual metal of the bike.
The idea of removing all of the old paint came from a time when people actually believed in doing things the right way. People who know what they are doing would actually understand this concept. If something is worth doing, it should be worth doing correctly. And yes I have a few decades of experience to back up my statement.
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
I’ve got a Superia frame and have always wondered were it came from. I knew it as a Belgian brand but the quality is horrible. My takeaway from the vid is my bike is boom trash from Canada!
In a little over a year, if the bike is used, it will start to peel, despite having done the right process and using good products. Nowadays, after three years of this video, surely if the bike was used, it must have had to be repainted or it must be quite chipped. Spray painting is just wasting time and money.
Please dont do this if you have a valuable bike.This is good for learning, but you will ruin a good bike. Get a good sandblaster, and one who knows to obviously remove the decals prior to blasting.This guy could have done better without using the grinding wheel. Instead just get the decals off, then use a good methylene chloride based stripper then clean well and you'll be good. Careful though. That is some caustic stuff.
+Daniel B I’m actually thinking of sandblasting my next frame. It’s just a hobby, lots of bike out there to play around with. I saved this one from the landfill so no harm there. Thanks for checking out my video ✌️
Drinking a beer sanding my bike, cheers bro
Sick tip hitting the hard parts first!!
Lol, Canadian Tire bike gets converted into Colnago, love it!
A painters secret is spray it with stripper then wrap it with seran wrap and let it sit for like 45-30 Minutes to soak in. Then gently scrape off
Dude, i'm 13, and building a 1984 Diamondback Viper, and i need to figure some stuff out and this is the first thing i went to.
+Bloodbones awesome! Good luck with your build. I hope my video helped ✌️
Good video and delivery. Spraying with your THUMB - never seen such a thing, haha!
Thanks for the tip on hitting the tight spots first. I was doing the opposite. I find that I am spraying air more than frame because the nozzle of a can isn't designed for such a small target. I am tempted to get a proper spray gun where I can tune the nozzle and delivery rate. I guess that brings a lot of complication with regard to paint mixing and equipment cleaning.
I agree that it makes things a lot more complicated. For example it’s not uncommon for a painter to have three separate guns. One for primer, another for base and another for clear. That being said, I’m super happy with how mine turned out. If you have time, check my channel for the build I did with this frame, turned out pretty nice. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
i just used klean-strip for metal, comes in a yellowish can. worked like a charm
+TotalGhoul Thanks for the tip 👍. I will look into this.
Be doing this in a couple days for my bike. Birthday present to me!Cheers!
Wicked! Good luck and happy birthday! Thanks for checking out my video ✌️
@@DCTaylor281 seemed to be the best one out them all 😉
Lool @ the essential beer at 4:48
This could be the next budget fixie!:)
Love the vids man!
I think that’s the plan! Thanks bro
If you use like 200 grit sandpaper before using the paint stripper, the paint may come off a little easier
Rotary wire brush on mains drill is way faster and cheaper. After that Dremmel tool on small awkward sections.
That’s weird, when I spray painted my bmx bikes frame I used a paint stripper and it worked great, it was either Krylon or Rustolium aircraft remover, pretty sure it was Rustolium brand and not Krylon. It came out as a wet foamy liquid and after five minutes all the paint was fizzing and bubbling up and then 10 minutes of wiping all of the paint off and I was pretty much done, after I got all the paint and the paint remover off the frame I had so sand a little bit on the welds to get the rest off but in total it took less than an hour to have my frame completely down to the bare metal.
Thanks for the info. Did you pick it up at home improvement store like Home Depo?
@@DCTaylor281 yeah it was Walmart
@@thirdeyesurvivor3886 I will look 👍
When you explain sanding missed spots when priming what exactly would I be looking for to detect what needs extra sanding?
+tricksonafixed usually there will be some scratches left from using the heavier grit sandpaper, or anywhere there is still some old paint left on the frame. It’s hard to see what the frame will look like until you get a solid coat on and primer is very easy to sand. Sand any of these spots with a 320 grit. Hope that helps?
I love this video! You showed all the steps clearly and made it easier to tackle painting my old beach cruiser
@@kimmolina8676 I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching ✌️
I don’t understand where everyone got the idea that they need to strip the paint just sand it down till the paint is smooth and prime
That’s definitely a simpler way of doing it. On a vintage frame like this with rust and a lot of imperfections people tend to want to strip and start fresh. There’s also some weight saving associated with this method. Thanks for watching.
Its like washing your hands without soap. Yeah it's water, but you'd have to scratch and rub the dirt off your hands. Which takes more effort and isn't too efficient. Yeah?
So paint stripper = soap.
Less time with cleaner results.
Easy.
Weight savings really, yeah that fraction of a gram is make a huge difference on the bike’s performance 🙄
Ethan couldn’t agree more, no need to strip to bare metal if you know what you are doing but surprisingly not many do
@@msk3905 If someone is watching a how to video, most likely they don’t know what they’re doing. To know how to do this kinda stuff you gotta start somewhere man, so a way that’s simpler for a beginner is what people are gonna teach ??
Encouraging and helpful video. However, I disagree on your comment that automotive paint such as Dupli-Color (lacquer not enamel which is terrible IMO) tends to flake. If it is flaking and chipping on you, this is likely due to improper substrate prep.
The primer you used in this video is rather generic and not very good IMO. It also has a poor nozzle and solvent combination that causes it to spatter out of the can. But most importantly, it is not an etching primer. All metal surfaces should also be throughly degreased prior to shooting an etching primer. A better alternative yet is to shoot a catalyzed 2K primer such as SprayMax (German) or Car-Rep (Finnish). 2K primers are very stable once cured and provide an excellent surface for DC or Montana 1K base coat which won’t flake when properly applied in multiple thin coats until coverage is achieved. These lacquers flash in about 10 min so multiple coats can be shot in the space of an hour for consistent colour.
But…, lacquer cannot be left as is without a protective clear coat. Tremclad basically contains the clear in it (the paint is also likely enamel based) but it’s a 1K product. The recommended clear coat for a professional finish is also a 2K clear again such as SprayMax or Car-Rep. SprayMax is an acrylic urethane 2K clear which can be applied atop any clean base coat once this has fully dried. Proper application of SprayMax gives a deep gloss which can be polished and buffed to yield professional results.
The product is the same stuff that pro paint shops put in their guns. The nozzle action is also similar to that of a gun. As an option, SprayMax comes in lower solids satin and matte finishes. However, these cannot be polished as this would smooth the surface removing the scattered light satin and matte effect of these clears. The cleaning and maintenance of these finishes is also more laborious than that of gloss clears.
Once fully cured (8 days or so), catalyzed 2K clears are without equal in the finishing business and result in a hard long lasting (i.e., chip proof) top coat which is also impervious to UV degradation.
Looking to do my first respray on one of my bikes... Lots of useful info here, cheers for that.
paint stripper work then high pressure wash it off when it ready easy you get the paint stripper at home hardware store the one you brush on
it's true what you say about modern paint strippers. Also, modern paint strippers are formulated for modern paints which are largely water-based.
half of the vid is for removing the old paint go 6:20
7:13 paint
I had that bike during the 80's. It's from Canadian Tire.
Sitou Dien Yes! 100%.
Supercycle 10 Speed Bike! This was the first bike I had here in Canada. I loved it! From the good times when Supercycle used to make reasonably good bicycles.
Great painting job! Congrats!
Cheers.
I used citristrip and hand sandpaper and it was no problem.
1:24 Gigidy...
Great helpful vid. Did you cover in clear coat? Ty
And I had my hopes up that you'll actually bring out a stripper to start the painting process :/
i guess I am kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Andrew Jabari Flixportal =)
@Preston Immanuel Thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it !
@Andrew Jabari No problem :D
@@andrewjabari9167 wtf does that have to do with this video lol
next time use brake fluid as paint stripper!
Great video. Great tutorial. Great job.
I’m repainting my ebike ina few weeks.
Gonna follow your video.
Thank you.
/Bklyn👑
Damn you just make want to paint my bike black as before 😟
My plan is to lightly sand the previous paint, tape the stuff i don't want paint and spray. I'm guessing about 15 minutes total. I don't care if the paint lasts forever. Change my mind. But honestly I'm hoping for constructive criticism. Thank you.
2 coats of primer? 1 coat of paint? What about clear coat?
Nice video!
how long did the paint last
Thank you best video I’ve seen yet. I’m going for chrome on my new single speed. Much help but damn sanding seem like an unavoidable b**ch. No other option as I don’t have tools. Thx
+Liam Dawson it can be tedious for sure haha. I just take my time and enjoy the process. Thanks for checking out my video, glad you got something out of it ✌️
@@DCTaylor281 thanks for the response, ill have to give it a try!
Thats dope man!
Thanks! ✌️
COLNAGO sticks on a different frame?
I really dislike that, is kinda fraudulent when being resold.
i would love to paint one of my old bikes but the process seems so tedious i dont think its worth it
+klingburger ya I look at it from more of the prospective of enjoying the process and anything you build/ restore yourself is more rewarding and has more value then something bought of the shelf.
@@DCTaylor281 haha ok you've convinced me! ive got a 20yr old kona dew that ive restored everything but the paint job on - time to start sanding!
Awesome! Good luck and thanks for checking out my video ✌️
why didn't you use the stripper wheel for the whole bike? Minus the tricky spots of course
I really liked the video, until, at the very end, you put Colnago stickers on a non-colnago frame. That's a no-no.
DOT 3 or 4 break fluid does the trick
What kind of primer did you use?
Is there a place to add a water bottle?
No, so I drilled and tapped the downtube and added one. Thanks for checking out my video 👍
Thanks bro👍i have same cycle and i started to repaint it i search for many ideas but your idea 💡 helps me a lot🙏🙏 But cany you share how much ml of sprays which you used
I just did three coats... one light coat and two heavier coats. Hope that helps ✌️
Thanks 🙏
I got a Electra Suzy Q lowrider but someone painted it browngold-ish and i do not like the colour i want to make it black pink but i'm a girl and i do not have elbowgrease like you xd
Got any tips for me to still get rid of the brown so i can spray paint it black and pink without having the strong arms ?
why would you put colnago dekals into that?
Nice finish! I would have gone for a more cherry red and the full Colnago decal kit in order to get a consistent "italian look & feel" to the frame. All in all, nice job!
+Unai Ramos thanks for checking out my vid! You have a good point, I just had these couple decals laying around. With all the time spent on this frame, I guess it does deserves proper decal kit. Maybe part two haha ✌️
How many coats of black do you recommend?
+Josh I did three, first coat light and then two heavier coats. Thanks for checking out my video ✌️
Thank you buddy
Hi there quick question! Do you use any clear coat with black gloss paint?
+G F if you use Tremclad like I did, then I wouldn’t use a clear coat, because it’s an oil based paint and the clear coat will most likely react badly ie. bubble. If you go with an automotive paint for your base colour, then in that case you can spray clear over that. Hope that helps, thanks for watching ✌️
@@DCTaylor281 thank you!
Why do you need to strip the old paint though? Can’t you just prime and paint?
How well did the paint hold uo
+Terrell great, still riding this bike 🤙
Can't believe this guy using stripper. Not alot to sand.
how many beers did it take?
how did u remove the crank
+Rube Goldberg zz_zz channel locks! Thanks for checking out the video 🤙
I think the stripper is good but the paint on the bike is high quality that the stripper almost doesnt work
+stonefacewiththedrip thanks for the input, you make a really great point. I think you nailed it!
Ernst rolling over in his grave 😂, nice spray job though!
NO need to prime...IF.. you're not going to bare metal and the original paint was roughed up well
So you don't put clear coat on it, how is it now, is it still ok?
+Hafiz Roslan that’s right, Tremclad is a “single stage” paint, no need for clear. Still riding it and it looks great 👍 thanks for watching
did you sand between the last coat of paint and your first coat of clear? I am painting a frame very similar to this with tremclad professional enamel and plan to clear coat it shortly.. however, the enamel is a bit rough/textured!
No, I did not. Tremclad generally doesn’t sand great but you could try. Also be careful sometimes clears will react badly with Tremclad. I would test one small area first to make sure they get along. Good luck!!
Nice video
Putting Colnago decals on that frame is a MORTAL SIN !!
Hmmm, not exactly what I was looking for. So there's no chemical product that can strip paint from metal with ease at home? Sanding strips away the actual metal of the bike.
If you look through the comments some people have chimed in with other paint striping ideas. Thanks for checking out the video
The idea of removing all of the old paint came from a time when people actually believed in doing things the right way. People who know what they are doing would actually understand this concept. If something is worth doing, it should be worth doing correctly.
And yes I have a few decades of experience to back up my statement.
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
I’ve got a Superia frame and have always wondered were it came from. I knew it as a Belgian brand but the quality is horrible. My takeaway from the vid is my bike is boom trash from Canada!
Boom trash, but 400watts for 20mins will still win every time ✌️
@@DCTaylor281 no doubt
People there is a thing called primer use it
2000 years later... 😄
Drinking beer thn 2000 yers later😂😂😂
What about overspray??
Use a metho based stripper .. that’s the old style
Oven cleaner works the best to strip the paint.
+Jim I will try this! Thanks
What’s with the fake decals... Don’t try and make a super cycle a Colnago... $100 bike vs $1000 bike...
Too late
Maybe a heat gun to take off the paint ...
Lol 😂 he used strippers classic
They have heavier strippers man, you just didn’t get the right material.
Just cleaning off all the bits in all the welds. Someone kill me
+SMOKE DOG I know, that’s the toughest part. Paint stripper and a wire brush! Thanks for checking out my video ✌️
In a little over a year, if the bike is used, it will start to peel, despite having done the right process and using good products.
Nowadays, after three years of this video, surely if the bike was used, it must have had to be repainted or it must be quite chipped.
Spray painting is just wasting time and money.
Way cooler as a vintage Super cycle than a fake Colnago
+Brad Hotra you’re probably right, but I just had those decals laying around. Thanks for watching
Please dont do this if you have a valuable bike.This is good for learning, but you will ruin a good bike. Get a good sandblaster, and one who knows to obviously remove the decals prior to blasting.This guy could have done better without using the grinding wheel. Instead just get the decals off, then use a good methylene chloride based stripper then clean well and you'll be good. Careful though. That is some caustic stuff.
+Daniel B I’m actually thinking of sandblasting my next frame. It’s just a hobby, lots of bike out there to play around with. I saved this one from the landfill so no harm there. Thanks for checking out my video ✌️
I used citristrip and hand sandpaper and it was no problem.