Yeah they’re certainly some of the most reliable and they’ve made them for a while I’ve got a newer one and another one from 1973 and they’re both great
I was lucky to have inherited the exact same make and model arc welder from my dad when he passed away. I also took it apart and restored it. Good job!
Glad you found it useful. If I had to change anything, I would have added a DC rectifier and added two more jacks so I could weld in DC current as well as AC. Something to consider if you make a similar modification.
@@tracemcintosh667 I would jumper off the original output cables and connect them to the input of the proper rectifier. The output would be DC and just add two more connectors for DC. Of course, I never did this, so I can't say for sure how it would work.
Dear sir: Good job. I am just finishing up my conversion on that same welder from AC to DC. I used a full wave bridge rectifier 300 amp, but to make it work better, I also had to put on a smoother chock and two capacitors as filters as it is not a true DC current. I added two sets of plug-ins so I can go either AC or DC. (I use DC 99% of the time). I salvaged the transformer and more fans from an old micro wave. Works great.
Ive got the same welder, and it like yours will still be running when all the inverters are in the dump. I like how inverters weld but ive seen to many die.
You are absolutely correct. But the technology is changing so fast, and they get cheaper and cheaper. These old transformer machines only do one thing and they do it GREAT. The inverter machines do a lot, and most of them do it well enough to be usable. Problem is the weight and size of these old school welders make them less and less attractive to hang on to.
@@MyLilMule for alot of folks the inverters are the ticket k and they are handy for duel voltage, but for a dedicated shop welder I'll always have a transformer. Thanks for the video and for the reply
That came out very nice, your upgrades are very practical. I think the issues with the E7018 are that they are for a DC welder. HF sells the DC stuff, but there is an E7018AC that Forney sells, try it and I think your welder will run it fine.
I have a Lincoln electric ac-225;glm. My welder stopped working a few years ago. Took it apart found the wires at the switch loose tighten them up. But I found a wire loose coming from the transformer that has a eye let connector on it but can't find where it goes.All nuts was on the switch had all the nuts still attached at the switch. Two wires are attached to the switch but the loose wire is hot. But cannot find a place it goes. I can send pictures if needed.
If I was you I’d buy 7018ac for that old welder they seem to work great those old welders don’t die I’ve got 2 of them and they’re great. You did an awesome job restoring it. Keep up the good work.
I love it. I love the simplicity of it. Not a lot of bells and whistles, but has been perfect for me so far. I still haven't tried the spool gun, but that's going to be a nice option to have.
arc welding likes a good ground so you should try clamping down the object to the table close to the ground clamp .. It not like high frequency big where you dont move the part ,,, as yr trying to stick the ark with 7018 you are moving the part a little and losing a good ground . just what I think is happing also could be junk rods try 6011
Good points. I did a little experimenting today, and was able to get it to strike a good arc. I'm not sure if it's just me getting comfortable with stick welding again or if it was because the part was getting hot at that point. I even tried my PrimeWeld 225 on both AC and DC stick mode and had a similar issue. I am leaning more toward junk rods. They did better on DC than AC.
Why you would want to step back to that machine is beyond me after seeing the primeweld machines you have which incidentally the same machines i have. With that being said, cant argue with how it turned out snd yet another very good video. Keep up what you do and thanks for the videos
The lowest end Lincoln tombstone. In it's best days, when new its was just a bare bones AC only welder, no output jacks, etc. Projects like this one are a time and possibly money black hole.
Nice refurbish. Burnt many a rods with that unit back in my High School shop metal shop. I am assuming the 7018 rods you were using were DC rods and that is why you were having so much trouble. Get some AC rods like 6011 or 6013 and you should have better luck.
The 7018 rods are AC/DCEP so that wasn't it. I did some experimenting after I made this video and used my AC TIG welder and had similar issues. Once the material heated up, both machines seemed to run fine. So either A) I am just WAY out of practice, or those rods are junk.
I was shown an idea after I finished this. Had I known or thought about it, I would have done it. And that is add a bridge rectifier and a second set of dinse connectors for DC welding.
Ohh nooo. Dont put dielectric grease directly on copper connections!! Dielectric grease IS NOT A CONDUCTOR. It is an insulator. only conductive grease, such as type 846 carbon grease or similar should be used to protect and incresase conductivity on those types of switches, The switch might have arcing issues. Otherwise nice job.
Appreciate the feedback. I've been using dielectric grease on open electrical connections for decades. 846 is a good product, but completely unnecessary. Dielectric grease is more applicable here since it is being used as a lubricant in an open connection to help with corrosion. It's an ultra thin layer and not nearly enough to block electrical conductivity. If this was a completely sealed, non moving connection (like a plug) I would definitely use 846, as I have many times in the past.
Dialectic isnt an inhibitor on flow of current enough to mess with your welder whatsoever . If you use a conducive grease, it could arc between settings, so its not a good idea.
True however if it is used on a connection that will wipe it away to make contact it is the best thing to lubricate the connection area and not seap to the case. I run into this issue a lot when people put it everywhere on their vehicle.
I really like these old welders. They're built like tanks. This one was a bit of a mess when I got it, but I like how it ended up.
Yeah they’re certainly some of the most reliable and they’ve made them for a while I’ve got a newer one and another one from 1973 and they’re both great
I was lucky to have inherited the exact same make and model arc welder from my dad when he passed away. I also took it apart and restored it. Good job!
That's one welder you HAVE to hold onto and teach YOUR kids how to use.
Yes sir I love these old lincoln 225's !!
They are workhorses.
How very elegant! Thank you!
I also love the handle and how you put on wheels.
Glad you like it!
I got the same exact welder and this video is very helpful
Glad you found it useful. If I had to change anything, I would have added a DC rectifier and added two more jacks so I could weld in DC current as well as AC. Something to consider if you make a similar modification.
@@MyLilMule so I picked up this same welder from a family friend. And I’m just wondering how you’d add a DC rectifier on it?
@@tracemcintosh667 I would jumper off the original output cables and connect them to the input of the proper rectifier. The output would be DC and just add two more connectors for DC. Of course, I never did this, so I can't say for sure how it would work.
Dear sir: Good job. I am just finishing up my conversion on that same welder from AC to DC. I used a full wave bridge rectifier 300 amp, but to make it work better, I also had to put on a smoother chock and two capacitors as filters as it is not a true DC current. I added two sets of plug-ins so I can go either AC or DC. (I use DC 99% of the time). I salvaged the transformer and more fans from an old micro wave. Works great.
That's such a great idea! I wish I had thought of it when doing this project. But I am hesitant to have to repaint it. :)
@joesimpson5963 I’m in the process of converting AC to DC on this machine as well. Thanks for the info.
Ive got the same welder, and it like yours will still be running when all the inverters are in the dump. I like how inverters weld but ive seen to many die.
You are absolutely correct. But the technology is changing so fast, and they get cheaper and cheaper. These old transformer machines only do one thing and they do it GREAT. The inverter machines do a lot, and most of them do it well enough to be usable. Problem is the weight and size of these old school welders make them less and less attractive to hang on to.
@@MyLilMule for alot of folks the inverters are the ticket k and they are handy for duel voltage, but for a dedicated shop welder I'll always have a transformer. Thanks for the video and for the reply
Great video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
That came out very nice, your upgrades are very practical. I think the issues with the E7018 are that they are for a DC welder. HF sells the DC stuff, but there is an E7018AC that Forney sells, try it and I think your welder will run it fine.
Thanks! There are AC/DCEP rods. I think they are just junk, plus I am probably very much out of practice. I almost never use stick anymore.
But Man you went all out love your style.....your box looks great.Damn wish you lived on my block.....i would to do all that to mine...lol.
Thanks! It was a fun project.
Yes Bro you aced it.
Nice job, I think the new connectors are a plus :)
I think so too!
i was dubious of how the plate was going to look, changing the contours and all, but that really looks impressive
Thanks!
I have a Lincoln electric ac-225;glm. My welder stopped working a few years ago. Took it apart found the wires at the switch loose tighten them up. But I found a wire loose coming from the transformer that has a eye let connector on it but can't find where it goes.All nuts was on the switch had all the nuts still attached at the switch. Two wires are attached to the switch but the loose wire is hot. But cannot find a place it goes. I can send pictures if needed.
If you go to the main page of my channel @MyLilMule, you should see a link to my email address: greg@mylilmule.us
@@MyLilMule how can I send a picture of video? Only seen donations site not an email address.
@roberteast4160 I gave you my email. Greg@MyLilMule.us
7018 is a dc rod only. They sell 7018 for ac but the ones you have are 7018 dc. Run a 6011, 7013, 6010
@@codyswilley my 7018s can run DCEN, DCEP or AC.
What gauge leads are those for the stinger and grd clamp?
Good Job!👍
4 AWG.
If I was you I’d buy 7018ac for that old welder they seem to work great those old welders don’t die I’ve got 2 of them and they’re great. You did an awesome job restoring it. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! And thanks for the rod suggestion. I'll try to pick some up.
I wasnt aware that you also had the primeweld 180 mig. Seems to be an excellent machine for the $, how do you like it?
I love it. I love the simplicity of it. Not a lot of bells and whistles, but has been perfect for me so far. I still haven't tried the spool gun, but that's going to be a nice option to have.
Good idea to install the plugs. Fixed leads are a pain.
Strange that it doesn't arc well. Maybe check the welding currant with a amp-meter.
That's a great idea. I think my son has an amp-meter. Maybe I'll do some more experiments on all of these machines.
I agree the new style lead connectors made the rebuild look cleaner, I liked the video...
Thank you!
Isn't dielectric grease the last thing you want on something that you WANT CONDUCTIVITY?. Why not use conductive grease?
Absolutely not. The grease is for lubrication, not as an insulator. Conductive grease can cause a short.
arc welding likes a good ground so you should try clamping down the object to the table close to the ground clamp .. It not like high frequency
big where you dont move the part ,,, as yr trying to stick the ark with 7018 you are moving the part a little and losing a good ground . just what I think is happing also could be junk rods
try 6011
Good points. I did a little experimenting today, and was able to get it to strike a good arc. I'm not sure if it's just me getting comfortable with stick welding again or if it was because the part was getting hot at that point. I even tried my PrimeWeld 225 on both AC and DC stick mode and had a similar issue. I am leaning more toward junk rods. They did better on DC than AC.
Why you would want to step back to that machine is beyond me after seeing the primeweld machines you have which incidentally the same machines i have. With that being said, cant argue with how it turned out snd yet another very good video. Keep up what you do and thanks for the videos
It's more of collecting it than anything, TBH. I own 6 welders at the moment. I'm bound to add more. :)
The lowest end Lincoln tombstone. In it's best days, when new its was just a bare bones AC only welder, no output jacks, etc. Projects like this one are a time and possibly money black hole.
@jd3497 if I enjoyed the project, it was worth it.
Nice refurbish. Burnt many a rods with that unit back in my High School shop metal shop. I am assuming the 7018 rods you were using were DC rods and that is why you were having so much trouble. Get some AC rods like 6011 or 6013 and you should have better luck.
The 7018 rods are AC/DCEP so that wasn't it. I did some experimenting after I made this video and used my AC TIG welder and had similar issues. Once the material heated up, both machines seemed to run fine. So either A) I am just WAY out of practice, or those rods are junk.
Okay. I prefer the single voltage rods. I have never had much luck with dual voltage rods.@@MyLilMule
7018 is normally a dc rod thats an ac welder.
7018 is DCEP or AC. Always has been. I've run more 7018 on AC than anything on DCEP.
Great job; I've thought of doing the same.
I was shown an idea after I finished this. Had I known or thought about it, I would have done it. And that is add a bridge rectifier and a second set of dinse connectors for DC welding.
Ohh nooo. Dont put dielectric grease directly on copper connections!! Dielectric grease IS NOT A CONDUCTOR. It is an insulator. only conductive grease, such as type 846 carbon grease or similar should be used to protect and incresase conductivity on those types of switches, The switch might have arcing issues. Otherwise nice job.
Appreciate the feedback. I've been using dielectric grease on open electrical connections for decades. 846 is a good product, but completely unnecessary. Dielectric grease is more applicable here since it is being used as a lubricant in an open connection to help with corrosion. It's an ultra thin layer and not nearly enough to block electrical conductivity. If this was a completely sealed, non moving connection (like a plug) I would definitely use 846, as I have many times in the past.
don't know why you ask for comments, you seem to know it all.@@MyLilMule
@wilkbilt 👌🏼
Dialectic isnt an inhibitor on flow of current enough to mess with your welder whatsoever . If you use a conducive grease, it could arc between settings, so its not a good idea.
True however if it is used on a connection that will wipe it away to make contact it is the best thing to lubricate the connection area and not seap to the case. I run into this issue a lot when people put it everywhere on their vehicle.
Look good
Thanks for watching!