7 Years later! I bought a version of the HC 260 from a friend. Mine was manufactured in 1983 according to the serial number plate. I was unsure of the method to set the blade height, and although mine works slightly different, this video gave me all the information I needed to set the blades. I've got the version with three set screws, but the test and method is similar enough. Thank you Peter.
Thank you for making this extremely clearly explained and well shot instructional video. Although the blades in my machine are fitted entirely differently, the principle of the delightfully simple measuring procedure was the key which helped me out no end. Content of this quality is why RUclips can be so fabulously helpful!
Thanks again for this, I have never been happy with how my new thicknesser Planer performs even after following the manufacturer’s instructions for blade setting. I used your method today and it’s like a new machine!
I inherited one of these some 30+ years ago. While I have used it on a few occasions, I have now made proper space for it and plumed the power in properly. Was always scared of adjusting or replacing the blades but now feel far more confident. Just going to order a new set of blades now I know how to fit them. Thanks for explaining everything.
8 years later, and still very helpful, thank you, invaluable knowlege, and a surface planer does not perform well without this correct setup, thank you very much
Brilliant !!! Thanks very much. I'm a novice that has just bought a new but poorly adjusted cheep Triton machine, now I can set it up accurately. I love the system with the stick and pencil lines, at the start of the video I couldn't work out what they were for but as you used them, the beauty, accuracy and simplicity I found astounding. Thanks for sharing and very well explained.
Hi, I just signed in to say I bought a new (crappy) planer/jointer and the blades were so skewed that I was about to burn the machine or take it back to the store (whichever comes first) because I heard people say it's too difficult to tune a planer. Then I bumped into your video guide and now I am happy with my planer. Thank you very much!!
Thank you for a very clear and precise explanation. I bought a DeWalt DW 1150 a few years back and have recently unearthed it and put it in my new workshop. It looks to be exactly the same set up as your machine and is probably of a similar age. I feel confident now to set it up. Thanks again.
Thanks Peter. A very easy to follow description on how to tune up my "just purchased" thicknesser planer. The 5mm and 10mm makes it very straightforward. Cheers.
Wow Peter thanks so much for such an informative lesson on blade strings and simple procedure. My machine is more than 30 old, but I was never explained how to do this function accurately. Especially setting the blades with the wood grid lines. I always stumbled along with my own method. Now I can measure my cuts for more accurate cuts on different woods. This makes so much more sense.
I've just taken delivery of and old DeWalt DW1150 from my brother-in-law. So looking forward to using it. He bought it new many years ago for only a couple of jobs. It's in really good condition. I will change the blades and give a little TLC. Love your explanation here. Thanks for sharing Peter :-)
That is just awesome, Sir. I've bought a planer a few weeks ago and now when the new blades arrived I wanted to find a tutorial on how to set them right. The fun part is by accident I have now the same kind of machine like you have. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for this video. I used the same principle to set the blades on an ancient Makita hand planer. It was a very tedious job because the location of the double sided blades in the setting block didn't have a screw adjustment feature. I had to set a protrusion using a micrometer and trial and error. It took several hours but I got there in the end. I would hope Makita have improved the design for their latest models.
Hi Gary, I am sorry but I sold that planer a very long time ago. However, try this video from Mitch Peacock: ruclips.net/video/3MV0mxVRZpc/видео.html Peter
Great video I'm getting my first jointer / planer. Tommorow and I was a bit nervous about setting up the blades but I'm alot more confident now.. Thank you
A very thorough and instructional video, Peter. I agree that this is fine for a stand-alone planer (jointer). But for a combined machine, there is a risk of mis-setting the knives in relation to the thicknesser bed, if the cutter block happens to be out of parallel with the top outfeed table.
Thanks very much for sharing this, I have watched a few videos on setting up my planer blades and have just used your method with a piece of wood and lines across the table and it has worked great. This is the first time I have set up the blades and will definitely use this method in the future. Thanks again.
Many thanks for posting this video Peter. It gave me the confidence to undertake a blade change - something I wasn't looking forward to. Although there are some differences in the way the blades are adjusted on my Metabo HC260 I managed to achieve successful outcome!
Hi Peter, Watched this film last night and used it to set up my planer thicknesser perfectly today. Very simple and well presented video. Didn't have to refer back once which shows how easy it was to follow. Thanks for the help. Richard
Thank you for your very prompt reply Peter what I will do is apply for a new fence plate and see if they come with it. I am thinking about the safety side of things as the fence need to be very tight when pushing any wood across it once again many thanks and keep up the brilliant work you do
Thx mate, all it took was someone to explain the setup correctly to me, as this video does, I will now set up my own 240v hand held planer as my blades are to low going off what you say, and this is causing a bump and uneven cut in the wood, hard to explain! but I now know whats wrong in my setup, my blades are to low in relation to the fixed flat bed. Thx Paul
My surface planer has recently developed some snipe on the trailing edge of the board. Back to the video to check my setup is right. I suspect my knives are set too high / above my outfeed
Very fine instruction. My HC-260 is also about 20 year old and in need of service. I'm hoping Metabo ( here in the States) can service this plow horse of a machine.
Metabo bailed on providing service...very disappointed. I did find Ideal Machine Repair in Phila who quickly resolved the issues. You dropped the ball Metabo...thought you were the cadillac of tools....no longer !
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, your blades can be adjusted with the allen key. But unfortunately my planing machine don't has this possibility, so it's a little more difficult for me.
Thanks Peter for your swift reply, I have just set up my new blades as per the video and tolerances are excellent, I am struggling with tear out on some white oak where I have undulating grain around knots etc even with taking off very little material but maybe it is hard to avoid
Hi Phil, I am afraid that some pieces of wood, and not just oak, can have alternating grain along the length of a piece. Taking very fine cuts will help. Really sharp planer blades are important too but you have just replaced yours - are you sure that the new blades are indeed sharp? If I am unable to get a good finish on a piece because of tear out I rely on the sanding phase to sort it out. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop as it happens, I discovered that the supplied strange looking item was intended to set the blades. I used it, perfect! My machine doesn't have the adjustment screws at either end and relies on the springs in the block to push the knife to against the supplied setting arms. Your video perfectly suited my last planer - wish I'd seen it before I struggled. Thanks again
Peter, Ontzettend nuttige video! Ik heb vandaag een Electra beckum te leen gekregen waarvan de messen behoorlijk verkeerd staan. Zonder deze video zou het nooit gelukt zijn om ze correct te positioneren. Heel erg bedankt! Gerard
Really usefully video, thanks. Why 5mm and why a specific length of wood? Is it something specific to the type of jointer and how much the blade should stand proud of the outfeed?
The 5 mm is pretty much the agreed distance and the length is about right. These dimensions should do for any jointer. Thank you for the kind comments. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I was given an old Naerok Jointer/Planer which is probably as old if not older than your machine. I used your guidance to replace the blades and the results are fantastic I'm so chuffed I can't thank you enough
Great video.. 1 question though.. When setting ur blades here what height is ur in feed table.. Is it at the highest or lowest or in the middle.. My planer cuts a maximum of 2mm..sud I set mine at 0mm..1mm..or 2mm
Hello Peter thanks for a wonderful video. I live near Toronto in Canada, have recently purchased an HC260 2nd (3rd?, 4th?) nade planer/thicknesser, and have been very happy with it so far. I have not been able to find replacement, sharpenable cutters/blades. I ordered disposable blades for it, but they do not fit the existing lock block I have (I assume because it is designed for replacement, not disposable, blades). Can you please suggest where I could find replacement sharpenable blades? Thanks for your help.
Hi Paul, I am way out of date with that planer but the company was bought out by Metabo who continue to make the machine. I am not sure what changes may have been made but start your research with Metabo. Good luck. Peter
Great video. Thank you very much. I also have a 20 year old HC260. Believe it or not I have not done anything to the blades in all that time, but they clearly need resharpening now. Do you have any advice regarding disposable or resharpenable blades?
Hi Steve, When I bought my 260 I also bought the tungsten blades. The disposable and normal steel blades are okay but need to be sharpened a lot more than tungsten (perhaps 10 times more often). For me it costs the same to sharpen steel and tungsten and so the tungsten pay for themselves in a very short time. If the disposable blades are less than the price of sharpening other blades then go for it. Otherwise try and get tungsten. I have now fitted tungsten blades to my Jet planer and the difference is amazing. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop It seems that no one sells "disposable" blades with the slots in them. I can understand why with the double sided ones. Where can you get tungsten these days? The only slotted blades I can see are HSS /w 18% Cobalt.
Hi peter I just recently brought myself a Electra Beckum HC260 I can't tighten the fence up so I referred to your video on how to set the blades up and I noticed that your Electra has two small bars under the fence sitting on the fence plate mine do not have these and my gut feeling is that's why I can't tighten mine I've been back to the seller and he does not have these please can you tell me where to get them and what they are called or what I can use as a alternative. I've watched so many of your videos now and there is still much more for me to watch I do hope you do many more
martin dickerson Hi Martin, Those bars were firmly attached to my old HC260 I am afraid and I do not believe that Elektra Beckum ever sold a machine without. If there is a recess where you think that they should go you could experiment with some metal bar material (take the fence with you when you go to buy it). When you have the right fit fix it in place by screws from underneath and that might work. If you are in doubt, and with safety in mind, do consult your dealer or an expert. I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful. My HC260 was sold a long time ago and so I can't look closely at mine to give you any better advice. Good luck. Peter
Hi Gary, Yes I sometimes get snipe and it is usually when I am in a hurry. Try feeding in carefully keeping the wood flat against the bottom bed and then support it properly on the outfeed. Peter
Thanks Peter...I have the same Machine. Never used one before, but have used a Bosch paner. The principle of feeding over the planer table I took as with the hand planer. No downward pressue at all on the end, to prevent Sniping. Alas this was the case each time , despite the dial setting saying less than a mm. I got it used. Could the blade be the issue? To high maybe. The snipe, despite no pressure is ca 1 mm. Violent slightly... Cheers for any advice...I will give your tip a go.
Hi Dave, Are you supporting the wood as it comes out of the planer? You should try to do this without exerting upward pressure but just enough support to keep it level as it finishes the thicknessing. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop the peices were only 45 cm long. I Slide them along over the blades and transfered the holding on the part that had past the blade, flat too the table. Each time it seemed to fall and cut a snipe... table was set to remove less than a mm. I have levelled the two tables useing a straight edge. Then I rolled the blade cylinder so that the blade reached its highest apex. The blade is 2 mm higher than the two levelled table sides.. The locking slide levers are tight. Nothing loose.
Try a longer piece of wood, say 600 mm long, and see if you can control the snipe that way. It sounds as though you have done all of the right things. I remember a long time ago watching a video on RUclips that helped to cure snipe. Try doing a search and see what you find. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter , thank you for a great video, I have the same planner and with a side attachment I think is for mortising and tenons were the red cap drill chuck is , do you have a video showing use of this sliding Mortiser, and also , I have a elliptical arch architrave moulding I need to make, can you put moulding cutting knives in the head to shape moulds as done with the cheap triton planner thicknesser
Hi Tom, Yes, that red cap is where a chuck would be fitted to take cutters for morticing. There are no shaper blades for this machine. I am sorry not to be more helpful but I sold my machine nearly 4 years ago. Peter
Thank you for this video, I have the same machine myself and its great to see how you set the blades, I use much the same technique myself. I would love to see a similar video of how you adjust the fixed out feed and adjustable indeed beds to ensure they are aligned correctly.
@@NewBritWorkshop Hello, is this a good machine. I know someone who is selling it second hand as you don't get them anymore but are these machines dead accurate.
Hi Ziyaad, The machine cannot be described as dead accurate unless you make sure that it is set up properly. It is not a patch on the Jet 260 but that is well over double the price. I suggest that you ask to see the machine demonstrated in order to ensure that it is as good as you expect. Be prepared to replace or certainly sharpen the blades. Check for wear on the drive belt and also check the bearings on the various pulleys (see if they wobble). Peter
Thank you Peter I’ve just bought a second hand record machine and needs setting up properly. It appears to be a copy of that machine. Does yours have cast iron beds though or aluminium? My aluminium beds had a coating on them that was all flaking off and I’ve wondered if I can sand it off and oil it, or if it needs surfacing so it’s more accurate?
Hi Michael, I sold my machine a very long time ago but, yes, it did have aluminium beds. Mine were not coated at all. I cannot advise you how to clean off the flaking coating. Be careful using any form of abrasive. Try using a stiff plastic scraper and maybe experiment with various types of solvent. Take care not to risk a fire when running the machine afterwards and avoid getting any form of solvent on the gearing (oiled screw parts) or belts. Good luck. Peter
Thanks Peter, very helpful - just bought a Kity 636 and in the middle of putting in new blades. Could you tell me the pencil line distance (from the blade) on the fixed bed?
yorkdutchy Anything 0ver 100 mm will do but no more than 450 mm. The gadgets supplied with some machines are sometimes about 80 mm long but they are made of aluminium. Petyer
Dear, check this. I bought a nice clean hc260, and guess what, the measuring lines were already there marked by the previous owner. All the best for you, take care!!
Thanks for the excellent video Peter. I have the same machine but the rubber on the outfeed roller is breaking down and becoming sticky. Do you have any information on how to replace the outfeed roller? Thanks in advance.
I am afraid that I have never come across this. The Elektra Beckum brand was taken over by Metabo and they still market a similar planing machine. Contact Metabo as there is a good chance that parts from their current machine will fit. I have always found Metabo in the UK to be very helpful and particularly friendly. Peter
Awesome video, thanks. I just purchased a HC 260 :) is this 5mm setting not dependent from the height of the adjustable metal plate (the infeed jointer plate)?
I just bought the same planer/thicknesser but I am having trouble with the thicknesser infeed rollers. The drive belt comes off as soon as I turn on the machine. Do you have any ideas on how to fix that?
Hi Arlo, Not without seeing it. Check that the belt if not inside out and that it is tension properly. Also check that the two pulleys are in line. Other than that get your dealer to sort it out. Peter
Thanks for the clear demonstration Peter. I spent this Sunday trying to do the same thing to my Metabo version of the machine.! I've tried finessing the adjustment of the blades (as well as changing them!) and adjusting the roller tension but have never managed to remove snipe when thicknessing. For surface planing the machine works fine. I was wondering do you get snipe ( more wood planed off the start and ends of the piece than the rest) when using your machine as a thicknesser? Thks
Last post for now, sorry, I'm new at these things. My request for the manual clearly is directed at anyone with a copy of same, and not just Peter the professor. Please, Thanks. BOZ
@@NewBritWorkshop Following your instructions, i also re-adjusted my machine's blades. But then before using i fell sick. Previously i adjusted it so that i had a 0.002 mm space between the blade and the top of bed. I found that my settings didn't square the wood correctly. This is my first time of using such tool. I also need to learn more on how to do a better job on squaring up 2 sides.
I can come back with some feedback. Following issues: 1. I am using a new METABO HC 260C planer thicknesser. 2. The outfeed table adjustment was not described in any youtube video. Turns out my outfeed table wasn't plan with the infeed table. There were adjustment screws present, but i didn't realise i needed to do them, cause i didn't check for this issue. 3. Because of the previous issue, adjusting the blades so that they create a 5mm travel, cased me to have the wood planed in an angle. one end thicker then the other end. I'm not really sure how and why. I suspect that i pushed the soft pine too hard on both sides (infeed and outfeed table) 4. This is the point where i noticed that i can adjust the outfeed table and then readjust the blades. The one problem i encountered was that the i couldn't precisely align the blades to the outfeed table, with this method, because of the sub millimeter error caused by my marks. 5. At this point my travel was adjusted in such a way that i got around 3 mm total travel of the straight edge. At this point i need to by the appropriate tool to adjust the blades to the outfeed table . (but because my outfeed table is made of aluminum (non magnetic) i cant just buy any tool.
Hi Tim, I think that it is because the blade and its support are wedge shaped and as the cutter head is spinning it is being forced tight against the inside of the cutter block. Peter
I too have had pain in the financial nether regions since starting my Bessey and Festool passion. I also am fluent in trunks and hoods having spent 2 years in Canada and, what feels like, half my life visiting Washington DC. We Brits like to think that we are masters of the English language but that is not true. Some of the very best old English terminology still used in North America (sidewalk, faucet). I have also had my written English corrected several times by my (then) German boss! Peter
Hello Peter, I have recently purchased a 20-something year old Elektra Beckum planer/thicknesser which appears to be in good condition although I have had to replace the cutter bolts that were rounded. My cutters are the thick ones with one cutting edge which looks very much like yours, and they are in good condition.. How often have you had to replace your cutters in the years that you have owned the machine?
Hi Patrick, When I bought mine the option was for either double sided disposable blades or single sided Tungsten and I opted for the latter. If yours are Tungsten then with average hobby use they will go for 4 years between sharpening unless you have a mishap with a nail or embedded stone. If they are HSS then you should get 6 months to a year from them. I used to pay about £20 to get them sharpened. Peter
Hi I have this machine and have taken the fixed bed off, it won't no longer locate without cutter block hitting it. Have you ever had this issue? Chris
Hi Chris, No and I sod my machine at least 5 years ago. The Elektra Beckum company was taken over by Metabo who still make this machine. You could ask a Metabo expert for help. Peter
Hi Peter, I hope you can help. I've recently bought one of these machines (metabo branded) from eBay. I've spent hours trying to set it up right. I've set the knives using this method to find that the outfeed table was misaligned in relation to the cutter head. I adjusted that to be level and reset the knives using this method. Now I get a brilliant finish apart from the last inch or two. There's a tiny bit of 'snipe'. I'd guess at no more than 0.5mm though I've not had the dial indicator on it. would you consider re-setting the knives or when leveling the bed I've left it too low in relation to the cutter head? I can't face spending hours doing it again without clear direction from someone with experience. Many thanks in advance!
+Sam Tranter Hi Sam, I think by the sound of it your blades are set perfectly. Snipe is common but can be avoided. Here is a useful article which may help: woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html I get snipe from time to time and it is often because I am rushing. Once you get it on a piece, turn it around and carefully feed it in so that the next pass reduces the rest of the material on that side to eliminate the effect of the snipe. Alternatively, always plane boards about 120 mm longer than required so that the sniped ends can be discarded ! Peter
New Brit Workshop Thank you. I was worried it might have been between my technique and the set up. I often worry buying second hand tools as I've no idea who and how they were set up and to my surprise 0.7mm difference across the bed accounted for a lot of tapering in the first instance. Many thanks!
Hi I just got a HC 260 which I am so pleased with. Could you let me know where you get your blades from as mine definitely needs changing and I dont know where to look online
I got mine in a shop in Germany ! The Elecktra beckum brand was taken over by Metabo. The machine is still made and sold under a number of different badges including Metabo and Record. Peter
Hi there, I have the identical HC 260, I have a problem that after a service at Metabo the rubber belt that turns the blades keeps on jumping off. What could be the problem, in fact it's been back to Metabo twice, I am really frustrated. What I have notice is that the big black fly wheel or pully has a bit of a play when it's rotating.
Hi Peter, I sold my HC260 about 3 years ago but from what you say it sounds as though the bearing has gone on that big black flywheel. They should be easy to replace. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter, That was very interesting as I recently purchased a second hand exact copy of this machine, and intend to replace the blades. One problem I am having is with the thicknesser insofar as a large amount of 'snipe' when feeding the material in to the machine, not much of a problem with the tail end of the timber. Could this be due to a setting fault, as i've never used one of these machines before, otherwise it works perfectly. Thanks Barry
Hi Barry, It could be that you are trying to take too much off with each pass. Once you get a snipe on one side it is difficult to get rid of especially if you turn the piece over. Also, if you start by planing (or jointing) and are not careful at towards the end of a pass then you can create a slight irregularity which is eveident as snipe wen thicknessing. Take care to make sure that your wood when thicknessing is flat on the bed as it enters the machine. I would recommend that you watch a RUclips video about snipe (I have not made one) - ruclips.net/video/RnYw02yKEUs/видео.html Peter
Hello, I have the same machine and suddenly the crank to raise and lower the tray began to get stuck, I have cleaned it very well and I have lubricated it, it goes smooth, but immediately the thread hardens and turns wrong. Any ideas how I can take it apart and see what happens? Thank you very much for answering, I am writing to you from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Hi Ernesto, I am sorry but I sold this old planer about 9 years ago. If I remember rightly the lifting mechanism acts via a chain that turns several sprockets. If I am right it could be that one of the sprockets is out of mesh with the others. I cannot give you any further advice except that the machine is now made and sold by Metabo and so a Metabo engineer might be able to help. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter another great video. You mentioned you have carbide tipped tungsten blades. I was wondering where you purchased these as I have a reocrd PT260 with HSS blades and was looking to purchase a better quality blade. Thanks Sean
+Sean Cook Hi Sean, They came to me as a test sample via a UK company that has decided not to stock them. I have contacted them and they have no record of the supplier as the person handling it has left for another job. I am sorry not to be more helpful. I am not sure where you are but you should not find it too difficult to find a supplier in your region as there are a large number of companies selling this sort of thing. The blades themselves are a standard design. Peter
Hi Peter, very informative video. i have just bought the same machine and my locking bars have three allen key grub screws, do I need special blades? Thanks.
G'day Peter, I have just bought the Electra Beckum HC260 Planer/Thicknesser second hand. Do you know where I can get the operation manual from please? Thanks for the blade change video, brilliant!
7 Years later! I bought a version of the HC 260 from a friend. Mine was manufactured in 1983 according to the serial number plate. I was unsure of the method to set the blade height, and although mine works slightly different, this video gave me all the information I needed to set the blades. I've got the version with three set screws, but the test and method is similar enough. Thank you Peter.
Hi Anton, I bought mine new in 1990 and it was excellent value for money. Cheers. Peter
Thank you for making this extremely clearly explained and well shot instructional video. Although the blades in my machine are fitted entirely differently, the principle of the delightfully simple measuring procedure was the key which helped me out no end. Content of this quality is why RUclips can be so fabulously helpful!
Thanks again for this, I have never been happy with how my new thicknesser Planer performs even after following the manufacturer’s instructions for blade setting. I used your method today and it’s like a new machine!
Great to hear!
I inherited one of these some 30+ years ago. While I have used it on a few occasions, I have now made proper space for it and plumed the power in properly. Was always scared of adjusting or replacing the blades but now feel far more confident. Just going to order a new set of blades now I know how to fit them. Thanks for explaining everything.
Hi Dave, Excellent. Cheers. Peter
Thank you sir, just bought a HC260 myself and need to switch blades. I now feel completely comfortable doing that. Well done.
Hi Martin, Good luck. Peter
8 years later, and still very helpful, thank you, invaluable knowlege, and a surface planer does not perform well without this correct setup, thank you very much
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant !!! Thanks very much. I'm a novice that has just bought a new but poorly adjusted cheep Triton machine, now I can set it up accurately. I love the system with the stick and pencil lines, at the start of the video I couldn't work out what they were for but as you used them, the beauty, accuracy and simplicity I found astounding. Thanks for sharing and very well explained.
Hi Ian, Thank you for the kind words. Peter
Hi, I just signed in to say I bought a new (crappy) planer/jointer and the blades were so skewed that I was about to burn the machine or take it back to the store (whichever comes first) because I heard people say it's too difficult to tune a planer. Then I bumped into your video guide and now I am happy with my planer. Thank you very much!!
Excellent. Peter
Thank you for a very clear and precise explanation. I bought a DeWalt DW 1150 a few years back and have recently unearthed it and put it in my new workshop. It looks to be exactly the same set up as your machine and is probably of a similar age. I feel confident now to set it up. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Peter. A very easy to follow description on how to tune up my "just purchased" thicknesser planer. The 5mm and 10mm makes it very straightforward. Cheers.
David Handley Cheers David. Peter
Still relevant years on. Thank you for the attention to detail.
Wow Peter thanks so much for such an informative lesson on blade strings and simple procedure. My machine is more than 30 old, but I was never explained how to do this function accurately. Especially setting the blades with the wood grid lines. I always stumbled along with my own method. Now I can measure my cuts for more accurate cuts on different woods. This makes so much more sense.
Glad it was helpful!
I've just taken delivery of and old DeWalt DW1150 from my brother-in-law. So looking forward to using it. He bought it new many years ago for only a couple of jobs. It's in really good condition. I will change the blades and give a little TLC. Love your explanation here. Thanks for sharing Peter :-)
Hope you enjoy it! If you are new to planing machines then take care and watch your safety. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks for the advice Peter. I am new. I'm gonna re-watch your planner videos and read up the things appropriate to my machine.
Fantastic solution Peter. Simple and precise. Very much appreciated.
Hi Jon, Good luck with your woodwork. Cheers. Peter
That is just awesome, Sir. I've bought a planer a few weeks ago and now when the new blades arrived I wanted to find a tutorial on how to set them right. The fun part is by accident I have now the same kind of machine like you have.
Thank you for sharing.
+h4z4rd42 Excellent. Peter
hi Peter.
i was given the same model planer and was really worried about changing blades.
simple no nonsense instruction.
brilliant.
well done.
Hi Joe, Many thanks for the excellent feedback. Peter
Thanks for this video. I used the same principle to set the blades on an ancient Makita hand planer. It was a very tedious job because the location of the double sided blades in the setting block didn't have a screw adjustment feature. I had to set a protrusion using a micrometer and trial and error. It took several hours but I got there in the end. I would hope Makita have improved the design for their latest models.
Hi Trevor, Yes, that sort of blade fixing is a pain. Cheers. Peter
Got the exact same planer thicknesser a few months ago this is a fantastic instructional video thanks so much
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Peter for a great blade set up video, i wonder can you please show how to adjust and set up the top tables. please?
Hi Gary, I am sorry but I sold that planer a very long time ago. However, try this video from Mitch Peacock:
ruclips.net/video/3MV0mxVRZpc/видео.html
Peter
Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this so clearly and simply
Great video I'm getting my first jointer / planer. Tommorow and I was a bit nervous about setting up the blades but I'm alot more confident now.. Thank you
Hi Roy, Good luck tomorrow. Peter
A very thorough and instructional video, Peter.
I agree that this is fine for a stand-alone planer (jointer). But for a combined machine, there is a risk of mis-setting the knives in relation to the thicknesser bed, if the cutter block happens to be out of parallel with the top outfeed table.
Thanks very much for sharing this, I have watched a few videos on setting up my planer blades and have just used your method with a piece of wood and lines across the table and it has worked great. This is the first time I have set up the blades and will definitely use this method in the future. Thanks again.
Hi Allan, Brilliant. Many thanks for letting me know. Peter
Great video,very informative & precise, going into my workshop now to change the blades , a job I have been putting off for too long
Good luck!
Many thanks for posting this video Peter. It gave me the confidence to undertake a blade change - something I wasn't looking forward to. Although there are some differences in the way the blades are adjusted on my Metabo HC260 I managed to achieve successful outcome!
Hi Darrel, That is great - many thanks for letting me have this feedback. Peter
Hi Peter,
Watched this film last night and used it to set up my planer thicknesser perfectly today. Very simple and well presented video. Didn't have to refer back once which shows how easy it was to follow.
Thanks for the help.
Richard
***** Many thanks for the feedback Richard. Peter
Thank you for your very prompt reply Peter what I will do is apply for a new fence plate and see if they come with it. I am thinking about the safety side of things as the fence need to be very tight when pushing any wood across it once again many thanks and keep up the brilliant work you do
Thx mate, all it took was someone to explain the setup correctly to me, as this video does, I will now set up my own 240v hand held planer as my blades are to low going off what you say, and this is causing a bump and uneven cut in the wood, hard to explain! but I now know whats wrong in my setup, my blades are to low in relation to the fixed flat bed.
Thx Paul
Hi Paul, Many thanks for the feedback. Peter
va multumesc, am reglat masina mea de rindeluit folosind explicatiile dumneavoastra, merge pefect. Va doresc multa sanatate .
Hi Dan, Excelent - multe mulțumiri. Cheers. Peter
Thank you! This is genius! I was worried that I don't have the tools to position my blades, but this method is so simple, thank you!
Glad it helped!
I have the identical planer, and always refer back to this video, before I change my blades.
Excellent explanation Peter, clear and concise well done, big thumbs up.
My surface planer has recently developed some snipe on the trailing edge of the board.
Back to the video to check my setup is right. I suspect my knives are set too high / above my outfeed
Thanks very much for this video Peter, the time has come to change the blades on my SIP equivalent machine and this video will help me out immensely.
Mr Peter you are a STAR ⭐️ thanks I have exactly the same very well looking after
Glad to help. Peter
Very fine instruction. My HC-260 is also about 20 year old and in need of service. I'm hoping Metabo ( here in the States) can service this plow horse of a machine.
Metabo bailed on providing service...very disappointed. I did find Ideal Machine Repair in Phila who quickly resolved the issues. You dropped the ball Metabo...thought you were the cadillac of tools....no longer !
no nonsense tutorial, sorted mine out, thanks!
Cheers. Peter
Thanks a lot for this very well explained tutorial. I will try to install and adjust my new blades this weekend.
Hi Torsten, It should be easy using this method. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, your blades can be adjusted with the allen key. But unfortunately my planing machine don't has this possibility, so it's a little more difficult for me.
Hi Torsten, Take care, especially to ensure that the blades are firmly held before you start the machine. Peter
Thank you for your tips on blades sets all the best john.
Very clear and instructive video- many thanks!
Miles Ashley Cheers Miles. Peter
Great video thank you, I set my planer up on the basis of what you have done and its working a treat. Cheers
Hi Lewis, That is great news, cheers. Peter
Thanks Peter for your swift reply, I have just set up my new blades as per the video and tolerances are excellent, I am struggling with tear out on some white oak where I have undulating grain around knots etc even with taking off very little material but maybe it is hard to avoid
Hi Phil, I am afraid that some pieces of wood, and not just oak, can have alternating grain along the length of a piece. Taking very fine cuts will help. Really sharp planer blades are important too but you have just replaced yours - are you sure that the new blades are indeed sharp? If I am unable to get a good finish on a piece because of tear out I rely on the sanding phase to sort it out. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop
I may remove them and sharpen them myself, make a jig or send them away. Many thanks again Peter
Kind regards
Phil
Very useful video well presented. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this! My instructions (scheppach hms1070) are poor, this has clarified them perfectly.
Glad it helped!
@@NewBritWorkshop as it happens, I discovered that the supplied strange looking item was intended to set the blades. I used it, perfect! My machine doesn't have the adjustment screws at either end and relies on the springs in the block to push the knife to against the supplied setting arms. Your video perfectly suited my last planer - wish I'd seen it before I struggled. Thanks again
Thank you for a very clear, informative and helpful video tutorial, Mr. Parfitt.
Hi John, Glad to help. Peter
Peter,
Ontzettend nuttige video! Ik heb vandaag een Electra beckum te leen gekregen waarvan de messen behoorlijk verkeerd staan. Zonder deze video zou het nooit gelukt zijn om ze correct te positioneren. Heel erg bedankt!
Gerard
gerard kiers Hi Gerard, Ik ben blij dat deze video die u zal helpen. Veel geluk. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop Bedankt, met deze vlak/vandikte bank gaat dat zeker lukken!
Gerard
Excellent explanation, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thank you. Any chance you can do a video on how to calibrate the thicknesser on this model?
I am sorry but I sold that machine 10 years ago. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Not a problem, thank you for the message. Have a good one.
Thanks Peter, very thorough explanation, thank you.
Really usefully video, thanks. Why 5mm and why a specific length of wood? Is it something specific to the type of jointer and how much the blade should stand proud of the outfeed?
The 5 mm is pretty much the agreed distance and the length is about right. These dimensions should do for any jointer.
Thank you for the kind comments.
Peter
Excellent presentation Peter . Thank you very much
Many thanks. Peter
Really well presented and very helpful thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I was given an old Naerok Jointer/Planer which is probably as old if not older than your machine. I used your guidance to replace the blades and the results are fantastic I'm so chuffed I can't thank you enough
Excellent tutorial Sir.
Many thanks
Great video.. 1 question though.. When setting ur blades here what height is ur in feed table.. Is it at the highest or lowest or in the middle.. My planer cuts a maximum of 2mm..sud I set mine at 0mm..1mm..or 2mm
Hi Paul, I think it was close to or just over 1 mm - it was a long time ago !! Cheers. Peter
Great video, such a professional! 👍
Thank you! 👍
Thanks Peter, i have a record pt260 , looks very much the same machine , so ill try your method . You tutorials are great by the way .... thankyou
Hi Ted, The design is almost identical and I suspect some of parts would be interchangeable. Cheers. Peter
I have the Metabo version of this planer and I set it up as instructed in this video and it's not planing perfectly. Thanks Peter
Chris L Hi Chris, In what way is it not working properly? Peter
I have no idea why I wrote "not"! It is in fact planing perfectly. I had a senior moment I think.
Chris L Thank goodness for that - glad it worked out well. Peter
Excellent presentation. Thank you
Thank you for teaching us!
Hi Eugen, Many thanks. Cheers. Peter
Hello Peter thanks for a wonderful video. I live near Toronto in Canada, have recently purchased an HC260 2nd (3rd?, 4th?) nade planer/thicknesser, and have been very happy with it so far. I have not been able to find replacement, sharpenable cutters/blades. I ordered disposable blades for it, but they do not fit the existing lock block I have (I assume because it is designed for replacement, not disposable, blades). Can you please suggest where I could find replacement sharpenable blades? Thanks for your help.
Hi Paul, I am way out of date with that planer but the company was bought out by Metabo who continue to make the machine. I am not sure what changes may have been made but start your research with Metabo. Good luck. Peter
Great video. Thank you very much. I also have a 20 year old HC260. Believe it or not I have not done anything to the blades in all that time, but they clearly need resharpening now. Do you have any advice regarding disposable or resharpenable blades?
Hi Steve, When I bought my 260 I also bought the tungsten blades. The disposable and normal steel blades are okay but need to be sharpened a lot more than tungsten (perhaps 10 times more often). For me it costs the same to sharpen steel and tungsten and so the tungsten pay for themselves in a very short time. If the disposable blades are less than the price of sharpening other blades then go for it. Otherwise try and get tungsten. I have now fitted tungsten blades to my Jet planer and the difference is amazing. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop It seems that no one sells "disposable" blades with the slots in them. I can understand why with the double sided ones. Where can you get tungsten these days? The only slotted blades I can see are HSS /w 18% Cobalt.
Hi peter I just recently brought myself a Electra Beckum HC260 I can't tighten the fence up so I referred to your video on how to set the blades up and I noticed that your Electra has two small bars under the fence sitting on the fence plate mine do not have these and my gut feeling is that's why I can't tighten mine I've been back to the seller and he does not have these please can you tell me where to get them and what they are called or what I can use as a alternative. I've watched so many of your videos now and there is still much more for me to watch I do hope you do many more
martin dickerson Hi Martin, Those bars were firmly attached to my old HC260 I am afraid and I do not believe that Elektra Beckum ever sold a machine without. If there is a recess where you think that they should go you could experiment with some metal bar material (take the fence with you when you go to buy it). When you have the right fit fix it in place by screws from underneath and that might work. If you are in doubt, and with safety in mind, do consult your dealer or an expert. I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful. My HC260 was sold a long time ago and so I can't look closely at mine to give you any better advice. Good luck. Peter
Seemed easy enough. Have you ever used magnetic jigs for blade set up?
Yes, I have two variations and neither are worth the money. Just trust your own judgement and follow the method that I have shown. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop reason I ask is because your method seems a lot easier than it would be to set up the jigs themselves. I’ll have to give this a go.
Exzellent Description, many thanks to you !
Hi Hein, Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter
Hi Gary, Yes I sometimes get snipe and it is usually when I am in a hurry. Try feeding in carefully keeping the wood flat against the bottom bed and then support it properly on the outfeed. Peter
Thanks Peter...I have the same Machine. Never used one before, but have used a Bosch paner. The principle of feeding over the planer table I took as with the hand planer. No downward pressue at all on the end, to prevent Sniping. Alas this was the case each time , despite the dial setting saying less than a mm. I got it used. Could the blade be the issue? To high maybe. The snipe, despite no pressure is ca 1 mm. Violent slightly... Cheers for any advice...I will give your tip a go.
Hi Dave, Are you supporting the wood as it comes out of the planer? You should try to do this without exerting upward pressure but just enough support to keep it level as it finishes the thicknessing. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop the peices were only 45 cm long. I Slide them along over the blades and transfered the holding on the part that had past the blade, flat too the table. Each time it seemed to fall and cut a snipe... table was set to remove less than a mm. I have levelled the two tables useing a straight edge. Then I rolled the blade cylinder so that the blade reached its highest apex. The blade is 2 mm higher than the two levelled table sides.. The locking slide levers are tight. Nothing loose.
Try a longer piece of wood, say 600 mm long, and see if you can control the snipe that way. It sounds as though you have done all of the right things. I remember a long time ago watching a video on RUclips that helped to cure snipe. Try doing a search and see what you find. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter , thank you for a great video, I have the same planner and with a side attachment I think is for mortising and tenons were the red cap drill chuck is , do you have a video showing use of this sliding Mortiser, and also , I have a elliptical arch architrave moulding I need to make, can you put moulding cutting knives in the head to shape moulds as done with the cheap triton planner thicknesser
Hi Tom, Yes, that red cap is where a chuck would be fitted to take cutters for morticing. There are no shaper blades for this machine. I am sorry not to be more helpful but I sold my machine nearly 4 years ago. Peter
Thank you for the prompt reply. Much appreciated.
Excellent explanation - Thanks
Hi David, Cheers. Peter
Thank you for this video, I have the same machine myself and its great to see how you set the blades, I use much the same technique myself. I would love to see a similar video of how you adjust the fixed out feed and adjustable indeed beds to ensure they are aligned correctly.
Hi Bob, I am afraid that I sold this machine about 4 years ago and no longer have access to anything similar. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hello, is this a good machine. I know someone who is selling it second hand as you don't get them anymore but are these machines dead accurate.
Hi Ziyaad, The machine cannot be described as dead accurate unless you make sure that it is set up properly. It is not a patch on the Jet 260 but that is well over double the price. I suggest that you ask to see the machine demonstrated in order to ensure that it is as good as you expect. Be prepared to replace or certainly sharpen the blades. Check for wear on the drive belt and also check the bearings on the various pulleys (see if they wobble). Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hello, Thank you for your response. All in all is it a good machine to buy to get square stock?
Hi Ziyaad, I managed with mine for 15 years from new and it was really good. Peter
Thank you Peter I’ve just bought a second hand record machine and needs setting up properly. It appears to be a copy of that machine. Does yours have cast iron beds though or aluminium? My aluminium beds had a coating on them that was all flaking off and I’ve wondered if I can sand it off and oil it, or if it needs surfacing so it’s more accurate?
Hi Michael, I sold my machine a very long time ago but, yes, it did have aluminium beds. Mine were not coated at all. I cannot advise you how to clean off the flaking coating. Be careful using any form of abrasive. Try using a stiff plastic scraper and maybe experiment with various types of solvent. Take care not to risk a fire when running the machine afterwards and avoid getting any form of solvent on the gearing (oiled screw parts) or belts. Good luck. Peter
Excellent video and process!.Thanks for sharing. I would like to buy it.Please I want to know packege dimensions and weight?.
Hi Jugin, I do not have mine any more. Peter
Thanks Peter, very helpful - just bought a Kity 636 and in the middle of putting in new blades. Could you tell me the pencil line distance (from the blade) on the fixed bed?
yorkdutchy Anything 0ver 100 mm will do but no more than 450 mm. The gadgets supplied with some machines are sometimes about 80 mm long but they are made of aluminium. Petyer
Peter Parfitt Thanks for the very fast reply Peter!
Thank you for this! Very useful
Glad it was helpful!
Dear, check this. I bought a nice clean hc260, and guess what, the measuring lines were already there marked by the previous owner. All the best for you, take care!!
Thanks for the excellent video Peter. I have the same machine but the rubber on the outfeed roller is breaking down and becoming sticky. Do you have any information on how to replace the outfeed roller? Thanks in advance.
I am afraid that I have never come across this. The Elektra Beckum brand was taken over by Metabo and they still market a similar planing machine. Contact Metabo as there is a good chance that parts from their current machine will fit. I have always found Metabo in the UK to be very helpful and particularly friendly. Peter
Awesome video, thanks. I just purchased a HC 260 :) is this 5mm setting not dependent from the height of the adjustable metal plate (the infeed jointer plate)?
Hi Negao, Do it from the other side - I think ! peter
Very helpful video, nice and clear instructions, thank you.
Hi Seasend, Delighted to help. Peter
I just bought the same planer/thicknesser but I am having trouble with the thicknesser infeed rollers. The drive belt comes off as soon as I turn on the machine. Do you have any ideas on how to fix that?
Hi Arlo, Not without seeing it. Check that the belt if not inside out and that it is tension properly. Also check that the two pulleys are in line. Other than that get your dealer to sort it out. Peter
Really great tutorial. Thank you.
many thanks. Peter
Thanks for the clear demonstration Peter. I spent this Sunday trying to do the same thing to my Metabo version of the machine.! I've tried finessing the adjustment of the blades (as well as changing them!) and adjusting the roller tension but have never managed to remove snipe when thicknessing. For surface planing the machine works fine. I was wondering do you get snipe ( more wood planed off the start and ends of the piece than the rest) when using your machine as a thicknesser?
Thks
Excellent,thank you.
Hi Seamus, Glad to be of help. Peter
Last post for now, sorry, I'm new at these things. My request for the manual clearly is directed at anyone with a copy of same, and not just Peter the professor. Please, Thanks. BOZ
Very good lesson
Thank you! 😃
Thank you very much. This was great help.
Glad it helped!
Very clearly explained and extremely helpful. Thank you.
this is the good explanation, did this procedure also adjust correctly for the thikneser ?
Hi Kurazs, Yes, it did. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Following your instructions, i also re-adjusted my machine's blades. But then before using i fell sick. Previously i adjusted it so that i had a 0.002 mm space between the blade and the top of bed. I found that my settings didn't square the wood correctly. This is my first time of using such tool. I also need to learn more on how to do a better job on squaring up 2 sides.
I can come back with some feedback. Following issues:
1. I am using a new METABO HC 260C planer thicknesser.
2. The outfeed table adjustment was not described in any youtube video. Turns out my outfeed table wasn't plan with the infeed table. There were adjustment screws present, but i didn't realise i needed to do them, cause i didn't check for this issue.
3. Because of the previous issue, adjusting the blades so that they create a 5mm travel, cased me to have the wood planed in an angle. one end thicker then the other end.
I'm not really sure how and why. I suspect that i pushed the soft pine too hard on both sides (infeed and outfeed table)
4. This is the point where i noticed that i can adjust the outfeed table and then readjust the blades. The one problem i encountered was that the i couldn't precisely align the blades to the outfeed table, with this method, because of the sub millimeter error caused by my marks.
5. At this point my travel was adjusted in such a way that i got around 3 mm total travel of the straight edge.
At this point i need to by the appropriate tool to adjust the blades to the outfeed table . (but because my outfeed table is made of aluminum (non magnetic) i cant just buy any tool.
Hi Tim, I think that it is because the blade and its support are wedge shaped and as the cutter head is spinning it is being forced tight against the inside of the cutter block. Peter
I too have had pain in the financial nether regions since starting my Bessey and Festool passion. I also am fluent in trunks and hoods having spent 2 years in Canada and, what feels like, half my life visiting Washington DC. We Brits like to think that we are masters of the English language but that is not true. Some of the very best old English terminology still used in North America (sidewalk, faucet). I have also had my written English corrected several times by my (then) German boss! Peter
Hello Peter,
I have recently purchased a 20-something year old Elektra Beckum planer/thicknesser which appears to be in good condition although I have had to replace the cutter bolts that were rounded. My cutters are the thick ones with one cutting edge which looks very much like yours, and they are in good condition.. How often have you had to replace your cutters in the years that you have owned the machine?
Hi Patrick, When I bought mine the option was for either double sided disposable blades or single sided Tungsten and I opted for the latter. If yours are Tungsten then with average hobby use they will go for 4 years between sharpening unless you have a mishap with a nail or embedded stone. If they are HSS then you should get 6 months to a year from them. I used to pay about £20 to get them sharpened. Peter
Hi I have this machine and have taken the fixed bed off, it won't no longer locate without cutter block hitting it. Have you ever had this issue?
Chris
Hi Chris, No and I sod my machine at least 5 years ago. The Elektra Beckum company was taken over by Metabo who still make this machine. You could ask a Metabo expert for help. Peter
Hi Peter, I hope you can help. I've recently bought one of these machines (metabo branded) from eBay. I've spent hours trying to set it up right. I've set the knives using this method to find that the outfeed table was misaligned in relation to the cutter head. I adjusted that to be level and reset the knives using this method. Now I get a brilliant finish apart from the last inch or two. There's a tiny bit of 'snipe'. I'd guess at no more than 0.5mm though I've not had the dial indicator on it. would you consider re-setting the knives or when leveling the bed I've left it too low in relation to the cutter head? I can't face spending hours doing it again without clear direction from someone with experience. Many thanks in advance!
+Sam Tranter Hi Sam, I think by the sound of it your blades are set perfectly. Snipe is common but can be avoided. Here is a useful article which may help: woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html I get snipe from time to time and it is often because I am rushing. Once you get it on a piece, turn it around and carefully feed it in so that the next pass reduces the rest of the material on that side to eliminate the effect of the snipe. Alternatively, always plane boards about 120 mm longer than required so that the sniped ends can be discarded ! Peter
New Brit Workshop Thank you. I was worried it might have been between my technique and the set up. I often worry buying second hand tools as I've no idea who and how they were set up and to my surprise 0.7mm difference across the bed accounted for a lot of tapering in the first instance. Many thanks!
Hi
I just got a HC 260 which I am so pleased with. Could you let me know where you get your blades from as mine definitely needs changing and I dont know where to look online
I got mine in a shop in Germany ! The Elecktra beckum brand was taken over by Metabo. The machine is still made and sold under a number of different badges including Metabo and Record. Peter
Hi there, I have the identical HC 260, I have a problem that after a service at Metabo the rubber belt that turns the blades keeps on jumping off. What could be the problem, in fact it's been back to Metabo twice, I am really frustrated. What I have notice is that the big black fly wheel or pully has a bit of a play when it's rotating.
Hi Peter, I sold my HC260 about 3 years ago but from what you say it sounds as though the bearing has gone on that big black flywheel. They should be easy to replace. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter, That was very interesting as I recently purchased a second hand exact copy of this machine, and intend to replace the blades. One problem I am having is with the thicknesser insofar as a large amount of 'snipe' when feeding the material in to the machine, not much of a problem with the tail end of the timber. Could this be due to a setting fault, as i've never used one of these machines before, otherwise it works perfectly. Thanks Barry
Hi Barry, It could be that you are trying to take too much off with each pass. Once you get a snipe on one side it is difficult to get rid of especially if you turn the piece over. Also, if you start by planing (or jointing) and are not careful at towards the end of a pass then you can create a slight irregularity which is eveident as snipe wen thicknessing. Take care to make sure that your wood when thicknessing is flat on the bed as it enters the machine. I would recommend that you watch a RUclips video about snipe (I have not made one) - ruclips.net/video/RnYw02yKEUs/видео.html Peter
Hello, I have the same machine and suddenly the crank to raise and
lower the tray began to get stuck, I have cleaned it very well and
I have lubricated it, it goes smooth, but immediately the thread
hardens and turns wrong. Any ideas how I can take it apart and see
what happens? Thank you very much for answering, I am writing to you
from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Hi Ernesto, I am sorry but I sold this old planer about 9 years ago. If I remember rightly the lifting mechanism acts via a chain that turns several sprockets. If I am right it could be that one of the sprockets is out of mesh with the others. I cannot give you any further advice except that the machine is now made and sold by Metabo and so a Metabo engineer might be able to help. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hello, thank you very much!!
Hi Peter another great video. You mentioned you have carbide tipped tungsten blades. I was wondering where you purchased these as I have a reocrd PT260 with HSS blades and was looking to purchase a better quality blade. Thanks Sean
+Sean Cook Hi Sean, They came to me as a test sample via a UK company that has decided not to stock them. I have contacted them and they have no record of the supplier as the person handling it has left for another job. I am sorry not to be more helpful. I am not sure where you are but you should not find it too difficult to find a supplier in your region as there are a large number of companies selling this sort of thing. The blades themselves are a standard design. Peter
Hi Peter, very informative video. i have just bought the same machine and my locking bars have three allen key grub screws, do I need special blades? Thanks.
You can use what ever blades are supplied but make sure that they are sharp. I prefer Tungsten blades - if you can get them. Peter
That was very usefull advise thanks!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
was very anxious, thank u v much professor
I am glad to help. Peter
Thank you for this video. I own the same machine and I would like to know where you purchase these blades.
Regards.
Jean-François Lepeudry
G'day Peter, I have just bought the Electra Beckum HC260 Planer/Thicknesser second hand. Do you know where I can get the operation manual from please? Thanks for the blade change video, brilliant!
Hi Andy, Try Google or look at the Metabo HC260 which is very similar. Peter
Thanks for that Peter.