REPLACING power steering high-pressure line (TRICKY) 05 honda pilot
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- These high-pressure lines can get pretty tight when you’re trying to remove them. This is a 2005 Honda pilot, but there’s a lot of cars that have the same basic set up. The rack and Pinion is one of the hardest parts of the car to work on because it’s in the middle of everything. And it doesn’t help when all the bolts are rusty. In the video I go through a few techniques that make the jar possible. When taking some of the fittings out it is necessary to cut the line and hammer a six point socket under the fitting. The amount of pressure that it takes to get it out is more than you might think. Line wrench is not gonna work. Then you just fill everything back up check for leaks and away you go.
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Mine is leaking at the rubber crimped end at the pump, steering fluid is leaking down the side of the timing cover, dripping on the exhaust and passenger suspension. I'm smelling a burning smell when coming to a stop/idling. I thought it was an engine oil leak at first but nope, power steering fluid. I am a tech and I'm glad I found your video before I went in to repair this myself. I can't see the bottom of the line 100% and I'm using a lift! Thank you for sharing your experience.
Good info... but you missed the most important part. How to put the rack and pinion end for new line back on with the limited space because to put it on it REQUIRES the use of a wrapping slotted wrench so the wrench can go over the line and have enough torque to tighten the end of the line into the rack & pinion. It's impossible to use a socket for this and theres no space that I can see to use the wrench unless other things are taken out which are even more complicated.
We used a claw foot 14mm end piece, this was short enough to fit but still not easy but it WILL work, its going to be an inch by inch tedious situation, hope this helps!
I have a 2005 Pilot. I recently replaced the high pressure power steering hose (August 2023).
I made some room by removing a part that sits betwteen the aluminium intake and Rubber air intake. remove two 12mm bolts. A portion of the aluminum intake was sharp so I covered it with duck tape. This will provide enough clearance to reach in/ down with left hand (to remove nut on the rack and pinion)
You want to place a towel over the Aluminum Intake (where i placed my knees) and also cover the mechanism /lack that opens the hood (will poke your stomach).
You are litterly laying over the entire engine compartment.*
To break the nut loose, I used a 14mm claw foot wrench* with a 3/8 racthet. When removing the hose, for easier removal, I cut the metal portion of hose with diagonal /cut pliers.
My front passenger tire/wheel was removed* to pull the metal portion of hose out (near Oil filter). Pay attention to where to the last portion of the power steering hose comes out. You are going to fish it through the same route.
There's three different spots of Hose clamps that needs to be removed with 10mm socket or wrench. It easier to take off then to put back on. one acessible from top, next from pasenger wheel , and last from under the car (hardest one). If you gotten this far
When reinstalling the hose* i started the metal end first through the same route of the passenger side wheel near oil filter. It was not difficult fishing it in to the rack and pinion. Then route the upper portion to the pump.
Hardest part* for me is next. tightening to nut back onto rack and pinion. I had my sister twist the pump side of the hose clockwise or counterclockwise until the line was pointing directly to rack and pinion opening.
I slightly bend* the metal line to make it more parallel to the opening where its screws into Rack and Pinion. It may varie from manufacters.
Made sure both the nut and opening was cleaned of debris*. Hand tighten to nut first about 2 full turns (became tight) then used a stubby wrench* to tighten the rest. Mine had a 12 point side too. Depending on your new hose to nut size can be 14mm or 16mm. I had an aftermarket one that was 16mm.
Good luck guys this one is a pain in the A**
i wish every video i watched was this short and thorough. very informative video. thank you!
Use a 14mm crow foot socket on that flare nut. You can reach over the engine using a small stool or step ladder and fit your hand/arm between the other rubber hoses. Removing the intake tube gives you a little elbow room too.
Just did my nieces 2007 Pilot pressure line and pump after rubber line was checked and pissing fluid. Pump was aerated and ran low, so for $60 it was a no brainer. Pump is simple. But the line would be simple except for that dang flare nut!!
I’m doing a buddy’s niece’s too 😂 good call on crows foot 🦶 been looking for a excuse for years to use them 😂
@@WS1_AUTOS_N_STUFF Have fun, it's still a pain. However this Pilot is still running with zero power-steering leaks or whines at 300k. Worth the effort.
Great video cut out all the nonsense and just left the key points 👍
Man this is great. Im attempting to change mine on my 06 jgc 5.7 and theres no room. Thought about cutting the lone as you did but will be attemting tomorrow. Thank you!!!
Just did this. Thanks for the video. Hardest part was getting the flare end unthreaded. My ogre arms and hands didn’t help and they look like I took a cheese grater to them. Long skinny arms would be perfect lol
Thanks man great video straight to the point 👍
Great video. I was able to put a box end on it and then use 3 long extensions with a 16 mm socket on the end and tap it loose with a mallet
Wow, thank you soo much for this video and information. I’m currently working on this at the shop and holy shit what a job. Thanks again
amazing video my guy!
I have a 2005 Pilot. I recently replaced the high pressure power steering hose (August 2023).
I made some room by removing a part that sits betwteen the aluminium intake and Rubber air intake. remove two 12mm bolts. A portion of the aluminum intake was sharp so I covered it with duck tape. This will provide enough clearance to reach in/ down with left hand (to remove nut on the rack and pinion)
You want to place a towel over the Aluminum Intake (where i placed my knees) and also cover the mechanism /lack that opens the hood (will poke your stomach).
You are litterly laying over the entire engine compartment.*
To break the nut loose, I used a 14mm claw foot wrench* with a 3/8 racthet. When removing the hose, for easier removal, I cut the metal portion of hose with diagonal /cut pliers.
My front passenger tire/wheel was removed* to pull the metal portion of hose out (near Oil filter). Pay attention to where to the last portion of the power steering hose comes out. You are going to fish it through the same route.
There's three different spots of Hose clamps that needs to be removed with 10mm socket or wrench. It easier to take off then to put back on. one acessible from top, next from pasenger wheel , and last from under the car (hardest one). If you gotten this far
When reinstalling the hose* i started the metal end first through the same route of the passenger side wheel near oil filter. It was not difficult fishing it in to the rack and pinion. Then route the upper portion to the pump.
Hardest part* for me is next. tightening to nut back onto rack and pinion. I had my sister twist the pump side of the hose clockwise or counterclockwise until the line was pointing directly to rack and pinion opening.
I slightly bend* the metal line to make it more parallel to the opening where its screws into Rack and Pinion. It may varie from manufacters.
Made sure both the nut and opening was cleaned of debris*. Hand tighten to nut first about 2 full turns (became tight) then used a stubby wrench* to tighten the rest. Mine had a 12 point side too. Depending on your new hose to nut size can be 14mm or 16mm. I had an aftermarket one that was 16mm.
Good luck guys this one is a pain in the A**
This video and this comment helped alot. I didn't fish it through the passenger wheel though. I just put it all in from the top. It's a tight fit but you can put it right back where it was from the top.
This and hammering on a 6-pt socket might be the trick. Flared nut wrench is not getting on it from my angle of attack.
I have an 04 Pilot and undertook this ordeal. I've been wrenching for over 40 years and this is the most difficult job yet - only because of the lack of clearance regarding those attachment brackets. The one underneath, down by the exhaust is the worst!
I found that the flare nut at the end of the tube was fairly easy to remove once I got access to it. Cutting the tube and a 6 point socket worked for me. But it requires disconnecting a bunch of things to allow access.
It is a Total PITA to reroute the new tube in place under the car. I used a large zip tie to pull it through the last few inches because it was not lining up. I also used zip ties to secure it because I was not going to try to install the clamps. I used old garden hose to cover some of the metal tube. I doubt my Pilot will last another 10 years, so zip ties are a "good enough" solution.
Ok FYI .....for anyone having this issue...after about 3 months of my son, me and daughter working on this....eureka....this is how I got it to stop popping out...from the passenger side wheel well I grasped the line and held it firm and pushed it toward the insertion site..while my daughter used the flare nut wrench inch by inch to twist it in....this time it did NOT pop out....I had her take pictures to gauge if it was finally going in ....it was and did.....but we also noted that it does not have to go all the way in when you can turn no more( with out it popping out) it is in .....it will still be a small amount of the screw showing....we researched online and this appears to be ok...anyway problem finally solved ....I am a woman and car repair is something that I've always had interest in and have dabbled in so it was so satisfying to finally have this done, my son had gotten stuck...I made my daughter help because its her car...I was in school so I couldn't help fully until I graduated...so right after graduation I came up with that solution on my own, I didn't see this anywhere and boy did I search....ANYWAY good luck fellow Do it yourselves! Hope this info helps! I posted this again just to make sure its seen for those it may help✌🏿
Good work
Thanks for the video, just changed mine on my Honda pilot 05. 3/8s Crow foot flare wrench works perfect for removal.
How did you get new one on?? How did you get screw in, we can't get the screw to go in it goes so far then pops out??
@@carlaanderson6987 I had to bend the pipe to line it up, make sure it's straight and hand tigh the nut, to start then use a stuby... It's very difficult but once u get it started it go right in.
@@fuse1534 thank you for your quick reply, this has taken my son forever, I will give him this info and update here if it worked!!
Ok FYI ....tried bending line it did not help in my situation. ...for anyone having this issue...after about 3 months of my son, me and daughter working on this....eureka....this is how I got it to stop popping out...from the passenger side wheel well I grasped the line and held it firm and pushed it toward the insertion site..while my daughter used the flare nut wrench inch by inch to twist it in....this time it did NOT pop out....I had her take pictures to gauge if it was finally going in ....it was and did.....but we also noted that it does not have to go all the way in when you can turn no more( with out it popping out) it is in .....it will still be a small amount of the screw showing....we researched online and this appears to be ok...anyway problem finally solved ....I am a woman and car repair is something that I've always had interest in and have dabbled in so it was so satisfying to finally have this done, my son had gotten stuck...I made my daughter help because its her car...I was in school so I couldn't help fully until I graduated...so right after graduation I came up with that solution on my own, I didn't see this anywhere and boy did I search....ANYWAY good luck fellow Do it yourselves! Hope this info helps!
If you are lucky the last person put a bunch of red locktite makes it extra fun. The most ez way to cut the line is with a hack saw blade and a 1 handed holder. Don't waste your time with a wrench. You think oh I can take the low pressure fitting off and that will give me wrench room. It don't and gl getting a getting a pipe over the wrench. It don't work even if you can bc the pipe with move to much. Just cut it. Now here is a pro hack tip. Don't run the new line where in factory location. Get you a new 10 pressure sensor and just leave the old line where it at.
Thanks for the video.
Doing one of these at work and alldata wasn't worth a damn. Thanks for the video
Like others here I'm struggling to feed the rigid half of the line back behind the engine so that it ends up lined up correctly with the rack. I've been able to get the end of the line in the rack but have been unable to do so at an angle that will allow the nut to thread into the rack to secure it. If anyone has any information or can help in any way it would be extremely helpful.
I used a 14mm crows ft. Short extension, a long-handled ratchet with a breaker bar. That's how I got that fitting off from going to the top of the engine. Once that's done it all goes
I just replaced mine after watching this video. I did have to cut the hose using reciprocating saw and metal cutting blade ($15) then used 14 socket to get it off. Taking it out and putting in the new one had to be done by playing with the hose. Then slow process of tightening the hose.
Tried removing two bottom brackets completely rusted wont move. Soace is very limited, what did you use to cut them?
Thanks
Frank
Thank you.
Hi how can you install new hose I can’t screw it in please help
Replacing my 04 Power steering line. hopefully it will go smooth since it isnt rusty...
F my life 🤦🏽🤣 this is what I was afraid of 😱
DUDE YOU SHOULD BE A NARRATOR 😂 YOUVE GOT THE BEST VOICE FOR IT! 🤩 or should do reading for audible 🤙
What tool did you use to cut the old line, in order to get the socket on?
I have a 2003 ford expedition, the line is broken inside of the fitting and the bolt around it is strip so I have no way to take it out, is there any hose strong enough that I can use over the old fitting to make a new line over the old one for the high pressure line, or do you have any suggest what can be done in such horrible situation? Thank you
How the hell do you get the flare nut to actually screw in...it keeps popping out as its screwing in...we have a flare nut tool....I need some one to say how they got it in please I begg you!
Ok FYI .....for anyone having this issue...after about 3 months of my son, me and daughter working on this....eureka....this is how I got it to stop popping out...from the passenger side wheel well I grasped the line and held it firm and pushed it toward the insertion site..while my daughter used the flare nut wrench inch by inch to twist it in....this time it did NOT pop out....I had her take pictures to gauge if it was finally going in ....it was and did.....but we also noted that it does not have to go all the way in when you can turn no more( with out it popping out) it is in .....it will still be a small amount of the screw showing....we researched online and this appears to be ok...anyway problem finally solved ....I am a woman and car repair is something that I've always had interest in and have dabbled in so it was so satisfying to finally have this done, my son had gotten stuck...I made my daughter help because its her car...I was in school so I couldn't help fully until I graduated...so right after graduation I came up with that solution on my own, I didn't see this anywhere and boy did I search....ANYWAY good luck fellow Do it yourselves! Hope this info helps!
How did you end up cutting the steel line on the rack
$80, I just paid $125 after tax at the zone for the same part. If I had time to wait I could've gotten it for $50 from rock auto
FUDGE this is work lol. Its straight forward but so many tight places to get into
Why cant any one show howw they fed line through thanks another v6 accord. On day three every video is as much of the same without the footage .
This shit is hard enough to get a wrench into, let alone a camera
So does anyone have any tips on how to get the new pressure line in? I’v already fought it a little bit but I don’t want to damage the threads on the flare fitting. Any advice Is appreciated.
Im working on this right now. Ill let you know in an hour or so lol
@@kristenxb00 Three months later and still trying to get that hose in. Dang!
Fucking 8 months bro
What did you cut the line with
💪
Wow! So my hose just started leaking, but it's the rubber joint, right at the top of the power steering unit, slow leak for now. Do you know of any good way to fix the hose there instead of replacing the entire thing?
Jb weld water putty work for mine had same issue.
so ur saying its doable at home?
correct?
@1:06 The end of the line, is not the two you're looking at. It's *BEHIND* this.... 😱 🤣 💯
Nice explaination of this repair my friend.How much would you charge a person for this same repair if you had to do it for someone?
Just did this on my 2005. All I can say is not fun. Getting it out is the easy part.
Hola, el sensor verde que aparece en el minuto 1:52. Cual es su función? Porque yo tuve el mismo problema y ese sensor estaba goteando así que puse un tornillo porque en mi país no encontré el sensor. Y no me ha molestado el carro ni el volante.
Hay sensores que solo son para avisar si le falta líquido, y hay otros que si no lo cambias el carro no funciona, de hecho la mayoría de los sensores son para avisar o cerrar ,mandan la señal a la computadora y se para el carro , así se protege, , de que país eres?
@@victoruribe2939 es para el nivel del fuido
how many miles your car got?
Thankyou. That little fucker is a 14mm even though im about to round it off with my socket.
You didn't explain how to put the flare nut back on.
The hardest part of the entire job for me. Still unable to get it on lol
I noticed that too. That's the only nut I'm having problems with.
After replacing a new a brand new pressure line, my pump still makes the cranky noise especially when I whine the steering, and of course I checked the reservoir it foams. What could be wrong?
Try a new o ring on the return hose
Its the O Ring
This job is not for amateurs. Do not trust this video. It's a lot harder
I didn't see clearly the remove on the engine side :/ the rest is easy but the part you said was difficult you kind of speed track too it
It was so hard to try to get the camera into the engine compartment to show where the line runs. In fact most of the runs are so hidden that I can’t visually even see the line because it is covered from the top and the bottom. Reconnecting the new fittings had to be reached from the top of the engine. If I could have used a compression fitting to repair this I I would’ve really considered this rather than fishing out this hidden steel line. Well anyway if you have any other questions let me know.
I'm trying to ascertain the difficulty factor of installing the new hose. I chickend out of removing the bad one...it seems my arm is just not long enough to get there. I'm thinking I could cut the tube and get a socket on it, but I'm so worried about installing the new. Did you have to start the nut from the top or is there access through the wheel well or bottom. Coincidentally, all I found all the other clamp points and loosened everything, no problems. That end terminal however, it's a "?!+-&_$".
I think my high pressure hose is leaking, but it's from the top. I'm wondering if only that part can be replaced, because I really don't want to do this job.
I replaced the whole thing. Brutal job getting the bottom of the hose off and the after market hose wasn't the same shape and had to be bent. A claw foot 14mm was essential.
Ironically the bolt to the rack and pinion was the easiest part it came loose with a crow foot are regular wrench didn't even need a breaker bar ,but the brackets that hold the line at the bottom of the truck are a real pain i got one off and I'm gonna attempt getting the middle one today that's all that's left to get it out
Just did this. It took about 3 hours. It could be knocked out in under an hour, here’s some quick takeaways to make this as stress free as possible.
1) after removing all the mounting brackets, from the top bend the hardline back and forth until it breaks off at the flare nut.
2) grab your breaker bar with a 14 to get proper tq to loosen the nut.
3) pull old line through from the top
4) check the size of the flare nut on your new line, mine was a 16mm. Cut out a section of the boxed end wide enough to fit over the line. Then cut the wrench to about 3”-4”
5) feed new line from the top, reinstall top bracket to hold in place.
6) get under the vehicle align the line and nut into the rack, start threading by hand.
7) reattach back bracket and use your new modded wrench to tighten fitting on rack from bottom.
8) reinstall other pieces, refill and have a beer.
Ive been stuck at step 6 for hours. I cant get the damn flare nut to catch
Did you do this on a 4 cylinder?? Getting this new line to feed through the engine bay and motor mount is the biggest PAIN IN THE ASS. I cannot figure it out.
@@mitchell2024 did you get the nut in, i've been at it for weeks the nut still wont go in
@@CJ_Jacobs Pilots only come with the jseries. You really just have to be patient and make sure you took all the brackets and supports off. Don't be afraid to do just a little bending if you need to. This whole process was a pain in the ass and I know personally it was extremely frustrating!
@@txrxs yeah I realized right after I commented that this was for a pilot, I was doing the line on an accord. A whole different animal😂
Isn't Honda recommends to use genuine Honda power steering only?
Every manufacturer recommends that you use only their own special variety of unobtanium fluid. There are plenty of aftermarket suppliers that make Honda-compatible fluid though
What brand hose did you bought?
Do you have to use those type of power streering fluid ?
It does take PS fluid specifically for Honda/Acura. The brand doesn't raelly matter though.
If you do not use fluid compatible for Honda, the PS tends to make a lot of noise.
The good news is that this "special" PS fluid sis not that hard to come by.
Hell nah how much for the shop
In Canada toronto I payed 750$ including 13% tax 160 the high pressure line and 41/2 hours of labour
After many tears I Got it done have happy i can save on that
In NC $480 (parts and labor).
@@wanelly In just called a local shop today in CO and got quoted $440 plus tax for parts and labor. This job looks like it sucks but for $400 there is a lot of bullshit I will put up with.
@@ColoradoStreaming looks hard but with the right tools (even if you buy the tool, you can't spend $150). I'm not a mechanic (I'm in Healthcare) and I did it in 1.5hr. You can do it and do it right. Part is cheap online. Go for it!
My 4min tutorial turned into a 4day project 🤦🏽♂️🤣🤣
Smh just rushed right threw it
There should be a class action law suit on Honda for crappy engineering like this, unbelievable. Honda’s steering and rack and pinion has always been a pain to deal with
I can’t believe that Honda would try to save a few bucks and Hope peoples lives at risk. The worst part is not the power steering line. I did the exact same thing to the brake lines. We had a brake line completely blow out because of the cheap uncoated steel. The brake lines are completely uncoated for about an inch as they go into the caliper. Then I had to use the same cheap uncoated steel on the transmission line. It blew without warning I’m glad I caught it in time before I destroy the transmission. Honda used to be a name you could really count on. I have a much older Honda and it is built with much more care. Honda needs to go back to the roots before it’s too late. After seeing this I would not want to buy a new Honda. Pretty on the outside but cheap steel lines on mission critical spots.
Worked with a previous honda engineer. I spoke to him about the ridiculousness of vacuum lines and things of this very nature. How engineers should spend time in service prior to designing, rant rant rant. He looked at me, smirked and said, "If you only knew half of the things I learned in the Honda plant." "There is literally a tool, to do every single thing for you. Honda not only engineers things to be in tight quarters, but for assembly purposes has specially designed tools, apparatuses, and fixtures to literally do everything needed, with ease" So....there's undoubtedly a reason why the labor is so expensive. The difference is having the know how, and willpower to get it done. This job honestly doesn't look too terrible to do, and could be done in an afternoon with the right tools and help.
OrignalRECIPE92 I’m doing one now took me a while to do it, helped a lot having a crow foot wrench attachment, like you said tight quarters. 6 3, 290 pounds has a hard time fitting in there lol
Mine has a power steering issue as others but I honestly love it. I never imagined I'd love an SUV of any make & model but I love this one. Issues & all. I hope to get a newer one soon.