How to make a powerful propane burner for a gas forge or foundry
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2018
- DIY SIMPLE and EASY propane burner for your forge or foundry...
Parts List:
"Black Pipe" parts...
3/4" to 1" bell reducer
3/4" X 8" pipe nipple
3/4" to 1 1/2" bell reducer
Brass Parts...
1/4" X 6" pipe nipple
1/4" cap to seal the end of the brass pipe
1/4" threaded ball valve
3/8" flare by 1/4" flare can be found here: amzn.to/2EsSesr
Recommended 30 psi propane regulator can be found here:
amzn.to/2DP7YVp
Recommended #72 (wire gauge) drill bits:
amzn.to/2E6Hwd8
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I've spent most of the last year forging with charcoal and I figured it was time for a change. Come along as I explore the theory and the process of building a gas burner without blowing yourself up or burning your shop down...hopefully.
Safety is always important and I hope you don't take ANY RISKS AT ALL while doing this. Do your research first, and make sure you're comfortable with the process before proceeding with the build.
Also, ENJOY! With this new burner you'll be able to build a forge or a foundry or both. Melt aluminum, copper, and other metals and forge steel... even forge-weld steel if you build your forge right. This burner will do it all.
If you enjoy DIY blacksmithing, bladesmithing, metal work, and random "how to" projects please consider subscribing and watching a few of my other videos. Cheers!
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Hey! Just found your channel and enjoyed the several I’ve watched so far. I’ve always thought the whole forge/blacksmithing thing was beyond me but I’m re-thinking that now. Thanks.
Man, you're awesome. I love the humility and humor in your videos, but the love for knowledge and thus sharing. Great work!
Great video man! It simplified it so much and made me think a good bit about the design I want. I think making a 2-burner system with this exact diagram would be super easy! And I’m going to do just that with an 18” forge build! Thanks man!
Hey i started forging about 6 months ago i love it
Glad to see I'm not the only one to use the j-b weld! I dont have a welder and the brass wouldn't stay put with solder. I did make one correction to the way you did it tho... I used a 90° and a mig bit in the end cap. Also no bell at the bottom. Works great!
Thank you so much for this. This is the simplest description for this that I have found.
Literally best video ever thank you for the whiteboard part
afr all the videos ive watched your the first to warn against using galvanised pipe, thanks man for an informative demo
i also built my own similar but I soldered it it took a min to figure it out being my first time but I got it after a min and on top of the solder I used a jb weld like compound and I also soldered all the fittings to be safe cause I live in Germany and couldn't find the parts as easy like in the states and to add to everything German gas lines are left thread so that was fun finding an adapter for that but I did just want to say thanks for the video it helped me so much !!
Just tested and thanks it works wonderfully.
Also the drill bit size I used was size1/16 and it burns well .
I can attest, this works beautifully
Awesome can’t wait to see all the awesome builds in the future :)
GuardedDig2 Thanks! I’m getting pretty excited to use this thing, but first have to assemble the forge. Hoping to be done with that by Friday.
Nice build. Definitely made my mind up to design mine with a Mig tip instead of drilling copper pipe and to leave out the choke. That’s not to diss yours, it works and it’s cool and it’s diy so really cool
Now that you unlocked the secret of building a burner time to make 3 more like that one. More Power!! No one stops at 1.
Fail2Learn Ha! I’m already dreaming of a dual row six burner system!
@@FargoFX ...Only issue is the more burners you use the more gas your going to go through ,have fun lol.
It was very informative
Hi, nice build. I been building a burner myself and have a suggestion regarding the gas orifice. You can use a 3d printer nozzle. They are as cheap as chips on eBay and available in sizes from 0.2mm to 1mm or even more. If you go down this path it is as simple as drilling and tapping a m6 thread for the nozzle. Bonus is buy a few different nozzles and then you can change it easily. You don't break droll bits so easy then...
Awesome man pretty damn cool.
Very easy to follow along great narrative and love on white board keep 👍🏽 up ur videos
Nice walkthru. Mine uses the Mig Tip on the end tapped and screwed cap. It was forced air-used all last Summer and Fall, few weeks ago I tried to light it and it would go out when I turned on the air, dissasembled and check, put it together and my blower went out so I am playing with ideas like yours. I'm thinking the cross piece-where you have your hole, maybe tapping it for the mig tip-I can use a hollow rod from the burner end to center it, everything but our gas jets are close-yours is crossways, mine straight in with set screws.
brilliant vid
Great video very good explanation of process and parts thanks for sharing 👍
I used a T on mine with no reduction so I think it has more to do with the amount of air is allowed to flow
i have a qu for you.
do you have one that will mix with a forge fan and push up the heat ?
Did you grind out the threads on the nozzle end for a more focused flame?
My forge is built. If I get it up and running I'll post a vid, would like to know what ya think. Also, there is a guy named Paul Stoffregen who has a vid of a torch with a flame sensor he created which shuts down propane if flame goes out. It's pretty neat and seems would be a logical addition to these homemade forges. Imagine if the flame goes out and fills forge with propane and a spark pops in the melted aluminum or whatever. Not sure if I'm gonna try the sensor or not, lol, but again nice vid
Why did you weld that extension onto the propane side of this setup? I have a welder, but I have bought the 3/4 to 1 1/2 reducer your parts list calls for. I also have 3/4 to 1 1/4. Do I need to weld that extension on? Just wondering as I wait for those tiny drill bits to arrive in the mail. btw, nice vid
Just a correction to your explanation of the venture effect, the venturi effect is a result of the high-pressure gas being released in a focused direction that causes low pressure behind the gas nozzle. That low-pressure in turn acts as vacuum drawing in more air, the combined pressure and mixing of the air and gas will not allow the flame to crawl past the smaller diameter tube. The best none fluid example of this principle I think is a carburetor the mixing of gas and air is a great example of the venturi effect.
I'm a boiler tech whose worked on thousands of burners in boiler and burn off flare applications. But i don't reckon the theory is too different.. so As far as I understand it, you're correct about the pressure drop and the speed, but that is only to facilitate drawing the proper amount of air for the burn. The amount of air moving through the pipe as well as adequate gas pressure is what keeps the flame from traveling back up the pipe. I'd actually say it has more to do with gas pressure than anything, since moving gas is what draws in the air. The opening at the opposite end is needed to be enlarged, or flared, to allow the burning gas to spiral back in on its self in order to achieve repeatibility or in other words, to keep the flame lit. The flame wants to go out into the open, and then extinguish, leaving the gas air mix coming in behind it to escape without ignition. If it's forced to circle back in on itself, then the gas behind it is ignited. It's also this characteristic that will cause the flame to travel back up the pipe without adequate pressure. Once the burner tube is inserted into a furnace or another kind of chamber, often times this enlargement at the end of the pipe can be eliminated because the furnace pressure will be opposing the gas/air pressure coming in, creating the same effect. Typically, the end only nerds to be flared like that for testing outside of the furnace, or for a design that requires a flame in a large open space, like a burn off flare at a water treatment plant. Those just burn into the atmosphere... Sorry.. Lol. I ddnt mean to g o "Mr know it all" on u. As u stated, knowing this theory isn't necessary to successfully building one of these as long as u can follow instructions lol
looks nice. my recommendation is to make air forsed gas burner. it will be more powerfull and much more economical. only 1/4 like this one
Nice!!! Love that JB Weld. Found that there are those that are sceptical of JB weld, and those that use it. Lol good stuff.
Nice burner! Is there any reason why I couldn't use steel parts for any of the brass assembly? Only asking due to availability of parts.
Have you had any problems with propane freeze up? How long can you run a 20 lbs. At 20 psi before that happens?
I was also wondering what psi setting you normally have your regulator set at when first lighting the torch? And how far open you have the ball valve? No one ever seems to say in any of the videos I've watched.
I've seen other guys using a #60 bit for the gas jet, how critical is the size on that hole and what kind of tolerance do we have?
Great
The cup is to keep the flame attached to the end of the pipe. The speed in which propane burns is slow enough compared to other fuel gases. Same principle as cutting torch tips. Propane and propylene require a 2-part tip while acetylene uses a 1-piece tip
Can you reduce the flame to blue from red so that it is maximum efficiency and heat or is it red flame only ? I’m building a metal foundry to melt copper.
what's the size/length of the copper and black pipe?
Good job!!!!, Sorry but in list you said 3/4 to 1" and 3/4 to 1 1/2" and in the video both are the same, what is the 1 1/2"? Thanks
That thing is a beast. Too complex for me. I will just buy one if I get into it enough that I want a proper propane forge.
For anyone looking for the 1-1/2 To 3/4 reducer home depot and Lowes does not carry them except for in galvanized best thing I found is look for a local plumbing supply store that carry them but they are a little higher than online I paid $14 For the one I got
That should heat some steel! 👍
OUTDOORS55 yep, just a bit. 😂
Good descriptive video
The Venturi effect is the reduction in fluid pressure that results when a fluid flows through a constricted section (or choke) of a pipe. The Venturi effect is named after its discoverer, Giovanni Battista Venturi.
My only concern is can I use this to do steel work with my forge ?
Question
It's nice to have an explanation about the venturi flow but shouldn't the flow be faster if the pipe is narrower. P1V1=p2v2. The smaller the volume the greater the pressure. Everyone is using 3/4 pipes of all the videos I watched. 1/2 inch pipe should be more efficient. I have used all kinds of bought torches and none is bigger than half inch.
okay, I'm still trying to figure out what tools are needed to shape and install the aluminum foil shown in min 5:30? Also, Is it the same mils-spec aluminum⁜foil used to keep ones mind from being read? What I'm saying is, can i just use the same Mil※Spec Anti alein‡foil installed in my ball caps? 🤦♂️🤦♂️ Thanks!! Good video bro! just kiddn
Why drill a 1/2" hole to fit a 1/4" brass pipe into the bell reducer??
Mount the copper pipe into the flange before attaching the 8" pipe easier to center..
Thank god...the second out of many diy burner vids that actually mentions yellow tape! White Teflon is a no no for NG and LPG!
Nice build...should work out a lot nicer for you. I look forward to seeing the rest of the setup once you get it figured out!
Gar.. the industrial Revolution
Hey Fargo . . Wassup whiteboy. . Interesting video. . Thumbs up man. . .nevertheless you missed out on one very important detail. . .a flashback. . Don't mess wd propane bro. . . Hope you still alive dude. . Tc man.cool
On your copper ..you must flux the copper and fitting
It looks like you made similar mistakes I did on my first burner. The rear coupler that supplies the oxygen needs to be much larger than the tip. That’s why your flame has the larger sort of orange flame coming out past the blue. With that size air intake you’ll never need that “choke” what you need is actually more air. I went with a little different of a design the second go around where my gas inlet is a mig welding tip that is suspended vertically over the hole instead of coming in through the side of the coupler. This produced a way larger blue flame with zero orange/seed (which is unburned gas) and a lot more ability to make adjustments. Let me know if you want me to show you some pics of what I’m talking about or somethin.
wouldnt a propane weed burner work just as good?
Dann Cairns no a weed burner is for weeds this setup requires high psi to have a good flame weed burners run on low psi
I think those don't mix in any air. Pure , smoky porpane?
What about the burner on a construction heater?
I wouldn't think that mixing copper and steel pipe together is a good idea because it would cause galvanic corrosion that would break down and create gaps over time...
Pressure increases inside the venture, but drops on the exit of the venture, as it has room to expand. this keeps the flame from working backward
Michael Walker thanks for taking the time to educate me regarding a simple typo. Congratulations, Internet warrior! On fewer typo to offend the masses.
M....
You will find used motor is much hotter and cheaper to use
10th
too much blabbing until 7 min mark