Thank you! Not only did you give good info, but you came to the point without wasting half an hour... long-winded time wasting is the bane of youtube videos. Well done!
Additional: If you are putting grub screw fixed, knurled chrome 'speed knobs' on a slotted shaft, turn the shaft to face the same direction as the allen key then tighten the grub screw. Tightening it into the slot spreads the shaft into the knob and makes it grip all round while also making it stay perfectly upright. Never lost one gigging in 30 years! :o)
Shit, I ate my p90 (with the wires attached at a 5' length) solder them just like you did but "I' moved in to the back of my amp.. I now have no rent! I live, breath, and sleep tone. That's the proper way, oh and a orange cap for dessert. So.... Take that Schematic and crazy hippy theory of yours and shove it! I'm the tone starter! Love you! M.Porter Redeye Raccoon Detroit MI.
Just purchased and upgraded a bass with Stewmac Precision bass kit and knobs. Easy to do made the bass sound so much better and they are way better quality!!!
Active guitars and basses suck. I had one active bass and the guitar asked me if he could play it. Foolishly i said yes. I took me 3 days to get it sounding like a bass again with all the wildly stupid rang of the ridiculous controls. Never again. I sold that piece of crap.
I know Im asking randomly but does anybody know a way to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
@@keithclark486 Keith, I used that on my 100+ year old collapsible wardrobe during its restoration. That wood was EXTREMELY dried out. I needed to drill out areas to plug the wood because screws has stripped the wood. Half way through the repairs, I had broken and splintered all sorts of areas. Then, I remembered hearing about the tape. Yes, I used it, and my tear out was reduced to near zero, it it was not zero.
@@keithclark486 you know this video is intended for those who have limited to know experience, right? Those are exactly the people who can benefit from helpful comments like "use painters' tape to prevent tear-out" that douchier, "more experienced" people might thinks are unnecessary because they learned it a long time ago and forgot what it was like to learn something.
Beginner word of advice- there are Volume pots and Tone pots. In most cases they will end up being the same (maybe with different values or maybe with the same value), but the new wave "treble-bleed" pots are specifically for Tone Only. Treble Bleed pots actually break their own circuit when rolled all the way to 10. This is great for the tone, because it means that the guitar signal completely bypasses that pot and goes straight to the amp, but if you use it as a volume it will simply go dead silent, or at most you'll hear only the buzz of ground interference.
Pot value: This not only affects the charge / discharge time of the inductor (pickup coil) but is also the electrical 'distance' between your live and ground connection. I was shocked when given a Fender Billy Corgan model with a broken but working volume pot. After no reply from Fender (typical in the UK!) I contacted DiMarzio and they recommended 500k audio taper pots, the difference was night and day, this 'nice' guitar turned into a rock animal! Just goes to show, even after 3rd century building guitars and valve amps you can learn something new!
OMG, I was watching you ream that Pot Hole so intently... I caught myself blowing on my phone to remove the saw dust! Hahaha great video... It answered all my control Pot questions except the need/use of filter caps for tone. I'll look as I imagine it is covered in another video.
I'd like to also mention that I have come across import basses and guitars where the control cavity on the body is too narrow to take the larger CTS pot. I have used a dremel tool with a sanding barrel to remove material from the cavity in just the places where it's needed for the CTS pots to drop right in.
If you don't have a drill press and are far more cheap minded...a steak knife works just as well. Put the Tip end into the hole of the pick guard and keep the knife straight. Turn the knife one or two rotations and then see if the pot fits. If not do one or two increments at a time. I did this exactly when switching the original 5/16 pots for 3/8 Emerson pro CTS pots. Worked extremely well!
Better to use blue "painters tape" on that reamer to mark the stopping point, tough to see magic marker lines and your reamer ends up with marks all over the place and you need to take off with paint thinner. The painters tape also works great on drill bits.
Gibson during mid Norlin era used mostly 300k pots, as they bought in large volume. They had a lot of P90's left from Epiphone and brought out the deluxe to use them up, and this used 300k pots. It's one reason why a lot of people said they didn't sound good in that era, unfortunately they never do research and check the pots. My favorite era. You see a lot of 300k pots post '73
Pro tip for people without drill press or reamer: reaming holes slightly with a scissors blade :) They are usually tapered, so one can fine tune the final hole size nicely.
As always with stewmac, a very nice video. But I have to add that one of the most important thing for installing jacks, pots and switches, is to use a shakeproof washer. Also, why don't CTS make a pot with an 18-spline shaft? And finally, a 6mm grubscrew knob can be drilled to 1/4" very easily, and conversely, a 1/4" knob can be used with a 6mm shaft with a brass adapter sleeve.
Hey, great video. Love tweaking my guitars. You have a lot of patience and experience for this and it shows. I could learn a lot from you. Thank you for this channel. Always a pleasure. Kind (polite) regards from the west coast of Canada! (You know us Canadians ;) - c
I have a 60s strat, bought used years ago and it had a bridge pickup tone that was unusable. One day it just cut out(volume pot died) so I opened it up and saw it had Imported pots, good ones but needed changing. I ordered the basic CTS 250k pots to replace the Alphas and after a bit of soldering put it all back together and I was amaz3d at the difference in the bridge pickup tone, it sounded fantastic and usable(just like a Strat should) never had a tone control on that position before or after the pot change. The specs were the same so on paper there should'nt be a difference but there is , like the Guitar has come back to life. My theory is that maybe the old onez had been damaged somehow when the original owner changed out the old pickups perhaps cooking the pots? In any case I shall replace the other 2 pots soon as I believe they must be what my ears are used to hearing. Still stunned at the difference just 1 new vol pot makes!
Also measure the pots to get exact value, that way you can effectively match the pots to the instrument, for example, I worked on a particularly bright strat, dug through my supply, and installed 250K pots that measured 210K, took just enough edge off, PRS custom that was a bit dark, I installed 500K pots that measured 572K...etc.
I think some people might want to know what is the differences of the POT type - A, B, and C, and the application of these types on guitar. Adding these info would be great. I think for volume it's typically an A type, but for tone I see mixed between A and B. C is probably for Lefty's volume.
You guys need to do more videos. Even stuff as easy as knob and string replacement. It's cool to see the tricks the professionals do on simple repairs. Dan has not done a video in awhile too. C'mon, someone send him a project. I'd send him my 1963 Gibson ES 125T for nut replacement but it's all original and afraid it'll break in shipping (then it wouldn't be original).
Thanks for the video! For volume control, should I select Audio Taper (log) or a linear pot? and for Tone adjustment, same question. Audio taper or linear? (or more simply, which is the more COMMON choice for guitars). Oh, nice tip on reaming a guitar without damaging the finish. Thank you.
OK. Some volume pot tone control fun: Get something called a "Concentric Control Potentiometer," which is essentially a 250k volume pot and a 500k tone pot in one package. Then instead of soldering your volume's ground lug to the chassis, jump it to one of the ends of the secondary pots, and then wire the wiper of the secondary to the other lug of the secondary, and *those* to ground. (Essentially, you just added a 0-500k variable resistor in between your volume pot and ground.) This'll let you really dial in how much of the brights get shunted out of your signal. Caveat: If you set your volume knob to 0, and then put in any resistance to the secondary pot, you'll start to actually get output out of your jack. (By adding resistance between ground and the wiper of the volume knob it'll split off some of the signal down the output line.) And at max resistance of the second pot you'll be, essentially, at 66% volume. It won't make a difference if you play on full volume anyway, though, except for the tonal control. (To remedy this, you can add a kill switch to your output line, though, to prevent any sound.)
Fender uses a 375K pot in the Eric Johnson Strat. I wish StuMac would stock them. I think it is actually an Alpha pot. Love the fact that you guys supply two nuts with the pots you sell.
I want to see a video about what and how, the best pots, caps and pickups for a Fender Strat or Strat kit, to get the hugest greatest tones ever with really good single coils.
Pots are pretty much gonna be CTS, 250k if using single coils. As for pickups, that is a matter of preference. There are hundreds of very good Strat pickups on the market, so “best” is impossible to gauge. As for the caps there is a lot of debate as for preference for oil and paper vs ceramic. Some think it makes enormous difference, others think it is minimal or none. Some like a .o22uf, others a .047uf. Then again there are a ton of players that never even use the tone control, so it would barely matter for them.
Great vid. Fortunately my import PRS guitar already came with good quality potentiometers and electronics….So not all import guitars will come with cheap electronics
5:39 Are the two outside connectors on the CTS pot supposed to be like that? They look as if they should be folded over flush with the board? (Just an observation) I'll assume they are.
I have recently used a couple of SM premium wiring kits to upgrade early 80s MIJ Strat & build a couple of new guitars(SD Pikups) & I have a couple of new kits to go in guitars under construction. Problem: no volume until about one & a half on the scale of 0 - 10. Then the sound comes in with some volume (does not fade in) I put many pots on an ohmmeter & found no change in resistance in this range in any pot. Anyone else find this? Installing a premium kit( with treble bleed cap on vol) in MIJ Strat made a huge difference in tone - just brought the sound alive. A month later I installed MIM pickups which only improved the new sound slightly if at all. Old pups were Fender Lace Sensor - bridge & mid, Unbranded pup- neck. To my surprise replacing the wiring made a much bigger improvement than changing pups.
Top tip: before you change your pots, try electrical contact cleaner flushed thru them first using a spray can and paper towels. If this resolves your issues, then job done. You will still need to strip down to get to each pot, but the cost difference is significant. If you have the skills to replace the hardware thereafter, then this video gives some sizing, parameter pointers and specialist pointers but imho not enough of a guided breakdown.
My bass has knurled posts and knobs with set screws. I used my old ibanez knobs. the body for my ibanez broke beyond repair so I salvaged it for parts!
Lots of good info. One question I have is, are there pots with a higher turning friction? I just got a Fender Player Plus Top and am used to the pots in my LTD Deluxe. I find it difficult to not turn the knobs to far because I am so used to the LTD set up.
I got new pots, they came with two washers (no teeth), the original washers (fender) have small teeth and my pots never slid out of place when turning the knobs. The new pots, no matter how tight I turn the nut, at the beginning they work fine but after a while the nut loosens and the pot turns out of place...........any solutions for this? 4:32 ...only one washer? ....or no washers at all, maybe thats the ticket.
I want advice on how to replace the ancient electronics, wiring, and pots in my vintage Lotus Les Paul type guitar but have no idea what to get. It has a 3 way toggle switch, one volume and one tone knob and two humbucker pickups. What would be an affordable replacement option?
I'd like to upgrade the pots on my ESP LTD EC - 1000 with active EMGs in bridge and neck. I see it comes with small, cheap pots and I'd like to upgrade these. Can you suggest what I should use and more importantly, do you think the shaft size will still facilitate a direct replacement?
One can use an electric drill and or even a twist drill and a ⅜" drill bit without danger of surface chip-outs. Just reverse the drill bit spin and go more slowly than if you're trying to just fasten something to something else with a screw. This is done on finished and/or unfinished wood - a little cabinetmakers trick. Well, the cabinetmaker isn't little, exactly.... I've also used a pair of scissors with success, as apinakapinastorba suggests. The video is not intended to be for luthiers but for people willing to open their guitars (for the first time?) and try something in which they have little experience. Some might see themselves ruining a working guitar just by taking off the pickguard or cavity cover but are willing to take a leap of faith that they'll learn something and lose their fear of minor guitar adjustments.
Hey! I'm currently working on my electric guitar and I bought a pot similar to the right one at 5:39. I've noticed that it has a small tab on the left. This makes the pot go skewed when it is attached to the pickguard. Should I bend this tab to make it parallel to the pickguard? Regards
I would ream the pot mounting holes with a sharp tapered reamer rather than using the drill press. Too easy to crack the pickguard with the drill. Capacitor type-- it would be interesting to see an A-B test with different types of cap. Can anyone really hear the difference between oil-filled paper, and mylar of the same capacitance and voltage rating? Old oil-filled will drift in value and ESR, so for testing these should be matched in the competing cap also. Did you mention the "taper" of the pots you use? Linear, audio, logarithmic... I've even seen some custom tapers that would really add "uniqueness" to a guitar's tonal response to control settings.
That '74 Gibson SG has been heavily modded. It originally had a harmonica bridge on it that was later replaced by this wraparound bridge. To install the wraparound bridge, the original bridge's bushings had to be pulled and the holes plugged. Once the proper location for the wraparound bridge was determined, the new holes for the wraparound's bushings were drilled, then the bushings and bridge were installed.
the tone knob broke on my BC Rich, and I'm dreading the prospect of replacing the pots.. (I think I might as well upgrade the volume before it breaks too)
Hi Stew, [or who] i have a FPB American Standard. with a dead p/u under the E & A. The D & G p/u works. Both p/u's are set off by the S-1 push pot on the volume control from series to parellel. When clicked in, both p/u's do not function, no sound. When clicked from in to out, only the E & G fire up. The circuit board as you know is the size of a quarter and sits on a legged tri pod. I will go 500K CTS/.047 oil cloth capacitor. [All are welcome to throw in their two cents.] Whats gives?
Great video, I have a question, I'm planning to permanently remove the Volume and Tone Pots for my SX PBass, will that affect the Pickups and Amp Input?
I have a guitar with a push/pull coil split tone knob, and it had a plastic cap on the shaft and only half a metal shaft underneath it, which I've never seen before. My volume pots are standard split shafts. I've got those chrome knurled knobs that you showed with set screws, and I've been using them for years no problem but I think I tightened it too much on the tone pot and the plastic cap cracked - do I need a new pot? I can't seem to find anything about plastic shaft covers let alone replacements
Good information mostly except the information about the value of the volume pots effecting tone. When the volume pot is in the "Full Open" position there is Zero resistance and therefor no effect on the circuit or tone. It's as if it were hard wired directly to the output jack. The only effect the potentiometer (resistance) has in the circuit is limiting current flow when you turn the volume down (adding resistance). This of course effects the pickup because it's lowering the gain of the pickup. The reason you might use a 500K pot in Humbuckers or a 250K in single coils is because a Humbucker is essentially two pickups and therefor twice the potential gain. For you to be able to cut the signal off (whats audible) you need more resistance than you would with a single coil pickup. The chosen range should be decided by WHEN you want the audible signal to cut. In other words, do you want the signal to cut out with a 1/4 turn of the volume knob? Or do you want to signal to cut at 3/4 of a full turn? Most players prefer the cut off with a smaller turn of the pot (Like when you want to do volume swells) so you would use a higher resistant pot so you hit the optimal resistance sooner than later. If you used a 500K pot in a single coil you would just cut the signal with less turns of the knob because you would hit optimal resistance sooner. If you want to change tone on your rig, don't look for pots to do that. Tone capacitor are one approach for non active system, active tone circuits like the Clapton Mid Boost mod is another, and of course different pickup designs as in: Type of magnets and placement, how many winding's, Gauge of wire, thickness of wire insulation, metal or plastic cover, type of metal cover, back plate, poles, potted, etc. Or use external active gear as in pedals and effects. Also good cables with less capacitance in the cable will have less effect on your tone allowing more true pickup tone.
I know that's a general consensus follows as he said that I always wondered that I've taken a couple AC classes and never seen how resistance affected inductance or capacitance in the circuit very much unless you're talking about resonance and that seems very minimal
+Jonathan Stodden What bothers me is the claim that one value pot resistance over another resistance value will give you a different tone response when in effect I could install a 1 meg or a 250K audio pot, then roll the volume down to say 50K resistance for the desired volume level and it's still 50K resistance with either pot, regardless of what the max available resistance of either pot might be. Therefor no tone difference between either of them at the same volume level. The only difference is how fast the volume gets cut.
9 лет назад
get a good meter. no pot at full open is zero. only way to get zero is remove the pot.
+Capitán Obvious Well let me clarify a few things. First off I have 4 multi meters, 2 analogue, 2 digital as well as various other scanners, tracers, biasing meters, etc. I'm a Luthier with over 25 years of experience, I got my Amateur radio license at age 14 back in 1974 so yes, I also do electronic and amplifiers repairs and I'm the owner and operator of Jensen Guitars. Having clarified that, your point is moot since the 100 miliohms of resistance you might find in a potentiometer full open is irrelevant in analog circuits. No one can hear that in volume change or tone. Besides you have 5 times that resistance in an average guitar cable alone. Now to the actual point I was making was; that it doesn't matter if you use a 1 meg pot, a 500K or a 250K pot because the resistance is the same for all of those at the same desired volume level. If you cut the volume by 50K ohms on any of those pots, it's still 50K and it's going to sound the same no matter which pot you have set at 50K. Meaning no tone change with different potentiometers. Now if you have anything relevant to add to the discussion I'm happy to listen. If you are just here to troll, which is what it appears, please don't.
This is simply untrue. When the volume control is wide open there is still the entire resistance of the post acting as a shunt resistance across the pickup coil, and shunt resistance across the coil affects the Q of the coil and therefore its frequency response, regardless of how much of the pot resistance you have in circuit to the amplifier.
"The higher the value the brighter the tone"?! No no no no and no. It's not that simple. And mostly that rule is wrong. The output impedance of the guitar is effected by the volume pot. And it changes drastically with volume pot position. And it reacts with the capacitance of the guitar cable which is controlled mostly by it's length. The cable going from your guitar to the amp is a capacitor. The center conductor to the outer shield makes a capacitor. That capacitance is rated usually in some amount of picofarads per foot. All the feet add together. A 20 foot cable will have twice the capacitance of a 10 foot cable. The output impedance of the guitar and the capacitance of the cable creates mostly a single pole Butterworth RC filter governed by the equation fo = 1 / (2PiRC) Try this. Plug your Strat into your amp with a 6 foot cable. Adjust the amp for a clean sound. Turn the tone controls on the guitar and the amp to full up. You guitar will sound very bright. Now. Don't do anything except swap out the 6 foot cable for a 25 foot cable. Probably not near as bright. Let's say your cable has 25pF capacitance per foot. And your pickup is 5kohm. Your volume pot is turned all the way up and it's 250k. So the 250k is in parallel with the 5k pickup. Resulting in an overall output impedance of 4.9k. The difference in 5k and 4.9k is insignificant. (Actually the DC impedance of the pickup is not the only thing going on here. The coil is a big inductor. And it adds reactive impedance. Essentially the impedance at 1kHz is more like 10kOhms to 20kOhms.) But let's just work with the DC resistance as the governing impedance at first. For a 6 ft. cable: The cable is 6 ft long so it's total capacitance is 25pF/ft x 6ft = 150pF. fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 5k x 150pF) = 212kHz. Which is way above audio range. For a 25 ft. cable: fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 5k x 625pF) = 51kHz. Which is still above audio range but we are knocking on the door. Now suppose you turn the volume on the guitar down just a tad using a 250k pot. At about the 90% position you now have 25kohm of the pot in series with the pickup. So the output impedance of the guitar immediately jumps up to 25k + 5k = 30k. For a 6 ft cable: fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 30k x 150pF) = 35kHz. Which is still above audio range. For a 25 ft cable: fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 30k x 625pF) = 8.5kHz. Which is in the treble portion of the audio band. And it will start to sound muddy. If you turn the volume down more it loses even more treble. If you use a 500k pot this effect is even more pronounced. And 1M it's really bad. Turn the volume down just a tad and it gets real muddy. So I am in favor of using no higher than 250k volume pot. Now if you are switching from rhythm to lead you may welcome the decrease in brightness as you turn down for rhythm and turn up for lead. But if you are trying to have a bright sound for rhythm like for reggae then you have a problem. Now here's a trick. They make microphone transformers that have a 1/4 inch plug on one end and XLR on the other. The transformer changes the impedance from the 1/4 inch side to about 100 times lower on the xlr side. The Shure A85F is an example of this transformer. Radio Shack used to have their own version in stock at the store. Using an XLR microphone cable plug two of these transformers into either end of the cable. That converts the XLR cable to 1/4 inch on both ends. Plug one end into your guitar and the other into the amp. Be bold. Use a 50 ft microphone cable. So the 1/(2PiRC) equation becomes fo = 1/ (2 x 3.14 x 30k/100 x 625pF = nearly 1MHz which is way above audio. So if you like the short cord bright sound. And you would like to prance around the stage using a monstrously long cable you can use this transformer trick and keep that short cord bright sound. Or you could just go wireless and look like a geek when the local airport bleeds into you system. Another thing to do is to put an active battery operated amp in your guitar. The output of the amp is going to be a constant very low impedance. So the cable capacitance would also of no concern with this setup. Also, someone might mention the specification called "characteristic impedance" of the cable. Like 50 ohm RG58 or 75 ohm RG59. These specifications absolutely do not matter for your guitar audio sound. Characteristic impedance only comes into play when you are transmitting signals significantly above 1MHz. And even above 10Mhz. So pay no attention to characteristic impedance specs for guitar cable. It's the capacitance per foot that matters. And that changes very little from one brand or type of cable and another. So really it's the cable length that matters.
The diameter of the cable would help with that. An easy way to explain impedance is the straw vs garden hose. That’s how I teach my electrical apprentices I get.
I'm thinking of removing my tone pot on my telecaster and replacing it with a tandem set of potentiometers. Soldering in some caps and creating a simple band pass filter. But I'm not sure what value of caps I should be aiming for that will allow me to have a complete sweep both ways from 14khz all the way down to 60hz. Any suggestions on what will work or where I can find the solution ?
Hey, I have a set of knobs I really like and they are unique, can’t get them in 24 spline. I’ve been thinking I could sand/file the slots inside the knobs to make them almost flush and then push them onto my cts pots then use tape to make them fit snugly if needed. What do you think, could it work or have you tried this? To make it clear, if I were to spoil the knobs trying it wouldn’t be the end of the world, if I were to break the pots after doing a full Jimmy Page wiring job though I’d be miffed!
stewart, just in case you can read this question, if I try to get a bluesy tone like SRV and David Gilmour which value of pots would be closer to a bluesy tone ? 250K or 500K ? I am using regular mexican fender pickups... and I have to ask, I am Engineer, in theory any brand with the same values it supposed to give the same tone results ? right ? I understand that quality involves a lot of mechanical aspects, but one pot of 500K of $4 supposed to give the same very aproximated tone results that another of $15 right ? thannks for the great videos
I got tons of tech questions for you. I have played many years but just getting into this tech stuff. OK I might want to get a guitar kit and build one since new guitars are way too expensive and they wont make it how I want, unless I pay "custom shop" about 2-3 times more.. So building a kit seems to be the only affordable way. So what is the best pots, caps and pickups to get the hugest Jimi SRV type tones ever, to totally maximize a single coil Stratocaster, thinking way out of the box?
You can get pretty close with good quality CTS pots and the Fender 59/62 pickups. 12's definitely play a part as well. However, and hate to be that guy, but especially for SRV, tone is in the hands. Alot of his sound comes from his pick attack and incredibly strong hands bending. If you're a gentle player it's just not gonna happen
A higher value pot will only sound brighter when maxed out. At lower settings the sound will be the same as lower value pots. For example if you turn down a 1 Meg pot it's the same as a 500k pot
The trick I always use for a spinning friction held knob is to use a cigarette paper (Rizzla etc..) & this works a treat!!! Remember smoking kills & I'm a nonsmoker!!!!!
Hello , I just bought an Eastman SB 56 with Lollar P90 and 500K pots...Feel it too trebbly sounding , need more warmth and fatness (like other P90 Gibson équipée I have !)..What can I do ? Which pot will help ? Caps too ? Thanks for your answer and help. Kindest regards from France . Belo
What if you pop the back off the pot, and put it back together, is it generally screwed up inside, like the mechanism? I did the with a pot, and it seems fine, but I'm still putting things together and unsure if it will function correctly? Can stuff get out of whack, where 9 on your dial is really 5 or something? Not sure how things line up in these?
Do the value of the pots all have to be the same? I.E. on a standard VVT jazz bass, If I wanted to use 500k or 1meg pots, do all three pots have to be 500k or 1meg respectfully or can I mix up the values? Currently, I'm about to wire a jazz bass with 1meg in both volumes and a 500k for the tone. Will that work? thanks
The over seas guitars the past 23 year have been incredible..the craftsmanship of these guitars amazing..your guitar doesn't have to be made in America anymore to have top quality craftsmanship..
For humbuckers, we generally recommend using 500K-ohm control pots with audio/logarithmic taper (A-taper) for both volume and tone controls because the A-taper sounds more natural to the ear. However, there are some manufacturer's who use linear taper (B-taper) pots for their tone control. It really comes down to your personal preference and letting your ears decide.
If the 250k pots that are in my 80’s Japan Tokai strat still work should I replace them or just leave em in til they stop working? Will CTS pots enhance tone? I upgraded pickups with a handwound set
CTS pots will not enhance tone. You could try changing your existing pots for some with a different value and see how you like it. Who manufactured them is not very important.
7:25 so, whatever metal is used for those gnurled posts is some kind of cheap metal that doesn't truly bend like real metal would, I assume. I mean, if it's real metal it should not break if you just bend it. Hell, a cheap coat hanger takes tons of back and forth bending before it breaks. Shame you have to buy new knobs to use those pots. Are there more choices besides linear and exponential taper? I recall some different tapers in the past and I wonder if you can choose between only those two. I think I'd like one that fades in really slowly so that on higher gain settings it doesn't just pop right on. anyway, thanks for the info and tips. Interesting about the pot resistances altering the tone. I didn't know that the volume all the way up would allow for the pot to have an effect since the resistance at that point should be 0. ? Maybe you mean the tone on points less than full volume. I don't know! haha
Electronics on budget imports are very cheap and their rated values are (often) inaccurate. CTS are reliable and bench tested. They also “roll” smoothly if you like to use them for effect while playing. (Same with alpha). I think that’s all he’s getting at. Some of you haters might be missing that simple point. Btw, I use NOS Russian OICs solely because I think they look cool. I use cloth push-back wire for the same reason. Infuriate yourselves on that for a while if you wanna.
I always thought that was just a joke. Holy Cow! It IS plywood. Had a Danelectro back in 70's that I picked out of someones garbage. It was fiberboard, but it had lipstick pickups so I had to have it.
8 year old video, but Ill ask in hope for an answer anyways! I have a 2023 Fender players series Stratocaster. I have swapped the bridge and neck pickup to a Seymore Duncan SHR-1B hot rails, and a DiMarzio Air Norton S. The mid is still a single coil BUT, asap i get the DiMarzio Pro Track in the mail it won't have single coils pickups. Tomorrow before getting the Pro Track ( slow delivery so I don't want to wait ) I'm swapping out all 3 stock 250K to Fender Volume/Tone 500K Split Axel Potentiometers. ( In my case the knobs will fit right on the new ones ) Will that be okay while waiting for the Pro Track or will it make the mid single coil that's currently in there sound weird? And is my choice to go for 500K with the setup mentioned a right choice or would you stick to the 250K pots?
Could you use electric guitar volume pots on a bass? Or would you have to use specific volume pots specifically for bass guitars with the lower frequencies?
I'm pretty sure the Jag/Jazzmaster use 1 Meg pots not because the pickups are darker, but because the additional circuitry in the guitars (rhythm/lead circuits and switching) sucks the high end out of the tone. I bypassed the rhythm circuit on my JM and had to (to my ears) use 250K just like any other Fender single coil. Cheers!
Stone cold guitar tech bro spittin' facts, telling you what you need to hear.
Love this guy.
Thunderkerk after you blunderrberk
Thank you! Not only did you give good info, but you came to the point without wasting half an hour... long-winded time wasting is the bane of youtube videos. Well done!
Additional: If you are putting grub screw fixed, knurled chrome 'speed knobs' on a slotted shaft, turn the shaft to face the same direction as the allen key then tighten the grub screw. Tightening it into the slot spreads the shaft into the knob and makes it grip all round while also making it stay perfectly upright. Never lost one gigging in 30 years! :o)
I just take out the middleman and solder my pickups directly into my amp. I can't move very far but DAMN THAT'S SOME BADASS TONE!
Hahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Shit, I ate my p90 (with the wires attached at a 5' length) solder them just like you did but "I' moved in to the back of my amp.. I now have no rent!
I live, breath, and sleep tone.
That's the proper way, oh and a orange cap for dessert. So....
Take that Schematic and crazy hippy theory of yours and shove it!
I'm the tone starter!
Love you!
M.Porter
Redeye Raccoon
Detroit MI.
OH kay
@@RedeyeRaccoon no strings attached
Imagine just how funny a real joke is.
Just purchased and upgraded a bass with Stewmac Precision bass kit and knobs. Easy to do made the bass sound so much better and they are way better quality!!!
I always loved instruction from a real expert versus all the hacks out there. Thank you sir.
This video feels like a friend explaining replacement pots to me. Really easy to watch. Great job.
01:45 I like how Erick sort of runs out of steam at the end of the sentence, like active electronics make him sad :P
LOL. They make me sad too.
Bc batteries are autistic and they need to stay away from instruments
@@dshack5690 Haha
Active guitars and basses suck. I had one active bass and the guitar asked me if he could play it. Foolishly i said yes. I took me 3 days to get it sounding like a bass again with all the wildly stupid rang of the ridiculous controls. Never again. I sold that piece of crap.
I know Im asking randomly but does anybody know a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
To prevent wood tear-out, place a piece of painter's tape over the area PRIOR to drilling.
@@keithclark486 Keith, I used that on my 100+ year old collapsible wardrobe during its restoration. That wood was EXTREMELY dried out. I needed to drill out areas to plug the wood because screws has stripped the wood. Half way through the repairs, I had broken and splintered all sorts of areas. Then, I remembered hearing about the tape. Yes, I used it, and my tear out was reduced to near zero, it it was not zero.
@@keithclark486 you know this video is intended for those who have limited to know experience, right? Those are exactly the people who can benefit from helpful comments like "use painters' tape to prevent tear-out" that douchier, "more experienced" people might thinks are unnecessary because they learned it a long time ago and forgot what it was like to learn something.
Love these lessons. StewMac is the best. Quality tools for a quality job.
Glad you like them!
Beginner word of advice- there are Volume pots and Tone pots. In most cases they will end up being the same (maybe with different values or maybe with the same value), but the new wave "treble-bleed" pots are specifically for Tone Only.
Treble Bleed pots actually break their own circuit when rolled all the way to 10. This is great for the tone, because it means that the guitar signal completely bypasses that pot and goes straight to the amp, but if you use it as a volume it will simply go dead silent, or at most you'll hear only the buzz of ground interference.
Not "treble bleed Pots" what you are referring to are "no Load tone Pots"
Pot value: This not only affects the charge / discharge time of the inductor (pickup coil) but is also the electrical 'distance' between your live and ground connection.
I was shocked when given a Fender Billy Corgan model with a broken but working volume pot. After no reply from Fender (typical in the UK!) I contacted DiMarzio and they recommended 500k audio taper pots, the difference was night and day, this 'nice' guitar turned into a rock animal!
Just goes to show, even after 3rd century building guitars and valve amps you can learn something new!
i have trouble putting into words how much that i apprecieate your videos . thank you so much ,i never stop learning.
You did fine.
I think this is a great introductory video for more people out there (not geeks like us) who wouldn't have a notion about this stuff.
OMG, I was watching you ream that Pot Hole so intently... I caught myself blowing on my phone to remove the saw dust! Hahaha great video... It answered all my control Pot questions except the need/use of filter caps for tone. I'll look as I imagine it is covered in another video.
I'd like to also mention that I have come across import basses and guitars where the control cavity on the body is too narrow to take the larger CTS pot. I have used a dremel tool with a sanding barrel to remove material from the cavity in just the places where it's needed for the CTS pots to drop right in.
If you don't have a drill press and are far more cheap minded...a steak knife works just as well. Put the Tip end into the hole of the pick guard and keep the knife straight. Turn the knife one or two rotations and then see if the pot fits. If not do one or two increments at a time. I did this exactly when switching the original 5/16 pots for 3/8 Emerson pro CTS pots. Worked extremely well!
Thank you, Erick. I appreciate the schooling. Your advice is sound and common sense and I appreciate it.
Better to use blue "painters tape" on that reamer to mark the stopping point, tough to see magic marker lines and your reamer ends up with marks all over the place and you need to take off with paint thinner. The painters tape also works great on drill bits.
Gibson during mid Norlin era used mostly 300k pots, as they bought in large volume. They had a lot of P90's left from Epiphone and brought out the deluxe to use them up, and this used 300k pots. It's one reason why a lot of people said they didn't sound good in that era, unfortunately they never do research and check the pots. My favorite era. You see a lot of 300k pots post '73
Pro tip for people without drill press or reamer: reaming holes slightly with a scissors blade :) They are usually tapered, so one can fine tune the final hole size nicely.
+apinakapinastorba I have a pair with one handle broken off, just for this job, just sharpened with a stone, and trim to fit! ;-)
I use a broken pair of long nose pliers. The mostly round shape means I never see any chipping.
I use a step bit with my drill rpm very low. I do like that reamer I may get one.
StewMac videos are the best.
As always with stewmac, a very nice video. But I have to add that one of the most important thing for installing jacks, pots and switches, is to use a shakeproof washer. Also, why don't CTS make a pot with an 18-spline shaft? And finally, a 6mm grubscrew knob can be drilled to 1/4" very easily, and conversely, a 1/4" knob can be used with a 6mm shaft with a brass adapter sleeve.
Good lord I wish I had found your channel about 12 years ago. Thank you Stewart! Subscribed and tapping that 🔔!
Great demo & tips StewMac. I'll be doing this soon, and I'll go to StewMac for the tools, pots, & knobs, and advice if I need. Thanks.
Awesome video. Very informative and your presentation style is smooth and concise.
Hey, great video. Love tweaking my guitars. You have a lot of patience and experience for this and it shows. I could learn a lot from you. Thank you for this channel. Always a pleasure. Kind (polite) regards from the west coast of Canada! (You know us Canadians ;) - c
I have a 60s strat, bought used years ago and it had a bridge pickup tone that was unusable. One day it just cut out(volume pot died) so I opened it up and saw it had Imported pots, good ones but needed changing. I ordered the basic CTS 250k pots to replace the Alphas and after a bit of soldering put it all back together and I was amaz3d at the difference in the bridge pickup tone, it sounded fantastic and usable(just like a Strat should) never had a tone control on that position before or after the pot change. The specs were the same so on paper there should'nt be a difference but there is , like the Guitar has come back to life. My theory is that maybe the old onez had been damaged somehow when the original owner changed out the old pickups perhaps cooking the pots? In any case I shall replace the other 2 pots soon as I believe they must be what my ears are used to hearing. Still stunned at the difference just 1 new vol pot makes!
Also measure the pots to get exact value, that way you can effectively match the pots to the instrument, for example, I worked on a particularly bright strat, dug through my supply, and installed 250K pots that measured 210K, took just enough edge off, PRS custom that was a bit dark, I installed 500K pots that measured 572K...etc.
Thank you for this video full of tricks that only experienced people know.
I think some people might want to know what is the differences of the POT type - A, B, and C, and the application of these types on guitar. Adding these info would be great.
I think for volume it's typically an A type, but for tone I see mixed between A and B. C is probably for Lefty's volume.
You guys need to do more videos. Even stuff as easy as knob and string replacement. It's cool to see the tricks the professionals do on simple repairs. Dan has not done a video in awhile too. C'mon, someone send him a project. I'd send him my 1963 Gibson ES 125T for nut replacement but it's all original and afraid it'll break in shipping (then it wouldn't be original).
Thanks for the video! For volume control, should I select Audio Taper (log) or a linear pot? and for Tone adjustment, same question. Audio taper or linear? (or more simply, which is the more COMMON choice for guitars). Oh, nice tip on reaming a guitar without damaging the finish. Thank you.
Excellent help, thanks 😊
OK. Some volume pot tone control fun:
Get something called a "Concentric Control Potentiometer," which is essentially a 250k volume pot and a 500k tone pot in one package.
Then instead of soldering your volume's ground lug to the chassis, jump it to one of the ends of the secondary pots, and then wire the wiper of the secondary to the other lug of the secondary, and *those* to ground.
(Essentially, you just added a 0-500k variable resistor in between your volume pot and ground.)
This'll let you really dial in how much of the brights get shunted out of your signal.
Caveat: If you set your volume knob to 0, and then put in any resistance to the secondary pot, you'll start to actually get output out of your jack. (By adding resistance between ground and the wiper of the volume knob it'll split off some of the signal down the output line.) And at max resistance of the second pot you'll be, essentially, at 66% volume.
It won't make a difference if you play on full volume anyway, though, except for the tonal control.
(To remedy this, you can add a kill switch to your output line, though, to prevent any sound.)
Fender uses a 375K pot in the Eric Johnson Strat. I wish StuMac would stock them. I think it is actually an Alpha pot. Love the fact that you guys supply two nuts with the pots you sell.
Great video's Stew Mac very helpful and smart Tips.
I want to see a video about what and how, the best pots, caps and pickups for a Fender Strat or Strat kit, to get the hugest greatest tones ever with really good single coils.
OK how about it waiting..
Pots are pretty much gonna be CTS, 250k if using single coils. As for pickups, that is a matter of preference. There are hundreds of very good Strat pickups on the market, so “best” is impossible to gauge. As for the caps there is a lot of debate as for preference for oil and paper vs ceramic. Some think it makes enormous difference, others think it is minimal or none. Some like a .o22uf, others a .047uf. Then again there are a ton of players that never even use the tone control, so it would barely matter for them.
Great vid. Fortunately my import PRS guitar already came with good quality potentiometers and electronics….So not all import guitars will come with cheap electronics
5:39 Are the two outside connectors on the CTS pot supposed to be like that? They look as if they should be folded over flush with the board? (Just an observation) I'll assume they are.
Excellent Video, Thank you👍👍👍
Melbourne, Australia.
Very clear, well produced, and useful.
My only question? What value potentiometers go into a P-Bass, like the one you actually did? Thanks + Cheers!
I have recently used a couple of SM premium wiring kits to upgrade early 80s MIJ Strat & build a couple of new guitars(SD Pikups) & I have a couple of new kits to go in guitars under construction. Problem: no volume until about one & a half on the scale of 0 - 10. Then the sound comes in with some volume (does not fade in) I put many pots on an ohmmeter & found no change in resistance in this range in any pot. Anyone else find this?
Installing a premium kit( with treble bleed cap on vol) in MIJ Strat made a huge difference in tone - just brought the sound alive. A month later I installed MIM pickups which only improved the new sound slightly if at all. Old pups were Fender Lace Sensor - bridge & mid, Unbranded pup- neck. To my surprise replacing the wiring made a much bigger improvement than changing pups.
Was just wondering about this!! Very Informative and in the nick of time!
Whats the extra pin (facing upwards) next to the shaft on the pot on the right at 5:25?
Top tip: before you change your pots, try electrical contact cleaner flushed thru them first using a spray can and paper towels. If this resolves your issues, then job done. You will still need to strip down to get to each pot, but the cost difference is significant. If you have the skills to replace the hardware thereafter, then this video gives some sizing, parameter pointers and specialist pointers but imho not enough of a guided breakdown.
I've used my SOG fielder pocket knife to widen the holes on pickguards without any issues.
My bass has knurled posts and knobs with set screws. I used my old ibanez knobs. the body for my ibanez broke beyond repair so I salvaged it for parts!
Lots of good info. One question I have is, are there pots with a higher turning friction? I just got a Fender Player Plus Top and am used to the pots in my LTD Deluxe. I find it difficult to not turn the knobs to far because I am so used to the LTD set up.
Hooray, you're back!
I got new pots, they came with two washers (no teeth), the original washers (fender) have small teeth and my pots never slid out of place when turning the knobs. The new pots, no matter how tight I turn the nut, at the beginning they work fine but after a while the nut loosens and the pot turns out of place...........any solutions for this? 4:32 ...only one washer? ....or no washers at all, maybe thats the ticket.
I want advice on how to replace the ancient electronics, wiring, and pots in my vintage Lotus Les Paul type guitar but have no idea what to get. It has a 3 way toggle switch, one volume and one tone knob and two humbucker pickups. What would be an affordable replacement option?
Outstanding. Great info and presentation. Well done.
I'd like to upgrade the pots on my ESP LTD EC - 1000 with active EMGs in bridge and neck. I see it comes with small, cheap pots and I'd like to upgrade these. Can you suggest what I should use and more importantly, do you think the shaft size will still facilitate a direct replacement?
One can use an electric drill and or even a twist drill and a ⅜" drill bit without danger of surface chip-outs. Just reverse the drill bit spin and go more slowly than if you're trying to just fasten something to something else with a screw. This is done on finished and/or unfinished wood - a little cabinetmakers trick. Well, the cabinetmaker isn't little, exactly.... I've also used a pair of scissors with success, as apinakapinastorba suggests. The video is not intended to be for luthiers but for people willing to open their guitars (for the first time?) and try something in which they have little experience. Some might see themselves ruining a working guitar just by taking off the pickguard or cavity cover but are willing to take a leap of faith that they'll learn something and lose their fear of minor guitar adjustments.
I enjoy watching these kinds of videos
Hey! I'm currently working on my electric guitar and I bought a pot similar to the right one at 5:39. I've noticed that it has a small tab on the left. This makes the pot go skewed when it is attached to the pickguard. Should I bend this tab to make it parallel to the pickguard? Regards
Snap it of with a pair of pliers. It's just for keeping the pot in place in control panels that have a registration hole.
I've often wondered about this. Great video. Thanks.
I would ream the pot mounting holes with a sharp tapered reamer rather than using the drill press. Too easy to crack the pickguard with the drill. Capacitor type-- it would be interesting to see an A-B test with different types of cap. Can anyone really hear the difference between oil-filled paper, and mylar of the same capacitance and voltage rating? Old oil-filled will drift in value and ESR, so for testing these should be matched in the competing cap also.
Did you mention the "taper" of the pots you use? Linear, audio, logarithmic... I've even seen some custom tapers that would really add "uniqueness" to a guitar's tonal response to control settings.
I'm likin that X-Y on that old Rockwell.
Nothing to do with the topic but im very curious, At 1:14 how did u guys put that wraparound bridge where the tuneomatic was? Thanks very much
That '74 Gibson SG has been heavily modded. It originally had a harmonica bridge on it that was later replaced by this wraparound bridge. To install the wraparound bridge, the original bridge's bushings had to be pulled and the holes plugged. Once the proper location for the wraparound bridge was determined, the new holes for the wraparound's bushings were drilled, then the bushings and bridge were installed.
stewartmacdonald thanks very much
? I understand the reason for using an audio taper pot for the volume, but wouldn’t you think a linear taper pot would be best for the tone control?
I have that problem where my knob is too big for the holes glad to know someone else has this problem😂😂
the tone knob broke on my BC Rich, and I'm dreading the prospect of replacing the pots.. (I think I might as well upgrade the volume before it breaks too)
Hi Stew, [or who] i have a FPB American Standard. with a dead p/u under the E & A. The D & G p/u works. Both p/u's are set off by the S-1 push pot on the volume control from series to parellel.
When clicked in, both p/u's do not function, no sound. When clicked from in to out, only the E & G fire up. The circuit board as you know is the size of a quarter and sits on a legged tri pod. I will go 500K CTS/.047 oil cloth capacitor. [All are welcome to throw in their two cents.] Whats gives?
In Europe, the "C" taper is the Log or Audio taper. In the US, a "C" taper is for anti-log taper, which is the inverse of a Log/Audio taper.
Great video, I have a question, I'm planning to permanently remove the Volume and Tone Pots for my SX PBass, will that affect the Pickups and Amp Input?
I have a guitar with a push/pull coil split tone knob, and it had a plastic cap on the shaft and only half a metal shaft underneath it, which I've never seen before. My volume pots are standard split shafts.
I've got those chrome knurled knobs that you showed with set screws, and I've been using them for years no problem but I think I tightened it too much on the tone pot and the plastic cap cracked - do I need a new pot? I can't seem to find anything about plastic shaft covers let alone replacements
Good information mostly except the information about the value of the volume pots effecting tone. When the volume pot is in the "Full Open" position there is Zero resistance and therefor no effect on the circuit or tone. It's as if it were hard wired directly to the output jack. The only effect the potentiometer (resistance) has in the circuit is limiting current flow when you turn the volume down (adding resistance). This of course effects the pickup because it's lowering the gain of the pickup. The reason you might use a 500K pot in Humbuckers or a 250K in single coils is because a Humbucker is essentially two pickups and therefor twice the potential gain. For you to be able to cut the signal off (whats audible) you need more resistance than you would with a single coil pickup. The chosen range should be decided by WHEN you want the audible signal to cut. In other words, do you want the signal to cut out with a 1/4 turn of the volume knob? Or do you want to signal to cut at 3/4 of a full turn? Most players prefer the cut off with a smaller turn of the pot (Like when you want to do volume swells) so you would use a higher resistant pot so you hit the optimal resistance sooner than later. If you used a 500K pot in a single coil you would just cut the signal with less turns of the knob because you would hit optimal resistance sooner. If you want to change tone on your rig, don't look for pots to do that. Tone capacitor are one approach for non active system, active tone circuits like the Clapton Mid Boost mod is another, and of course different pickup designs as in: Type of magnets and placement, how many winding's, Gauge of wire, thickness of wire insulation, metal or plastic cover, type of metal cover, back plate, poles, potted, etc. Or use external active gear as in pedals and effects. Also good cables with less capacitance in the cable will have less effect on your tone allowing more true pickup tone.
I know that's a general consensus follows as he said that I always wondered that I've taken a couple AC classes and never seen how resistance affected inductance or capacitance in the circuit very much unless you're talking about resonance and that seems very minimal
+Jonathan Stodden What bothers me is the claim that one value pot resistance over another resistance value will give you a different tone response when in effect I could install a 1 meg or a 250K audio pot, then roll the volume down to say 50K resistance for the desired volume level and it's still 50K resistance with either pot, regardless of what the max available resistance of either pot might be. Therefor no tone difference between either of them at the same volume level. The only difference is how fast the volume gets cut.
get a good meter. no pot at full open is zero. only way to get zero is remove the pot.
+Capitán Obvious
Well let me clarify a few things. First off I have 4 multi meters, 2 analogue, 2 digital as well as various other scanners, tracers, biasing meters, etc. I'm a Luthier with over 25 years of experience, I got my Amateur radio license at age 14 back in 1974 so yes, I also do electronic and amplifiers repairs and I'm the owner and operator of Jensen Guitars.
Having clarified that, your point is moot since the 100 miliohms of resistance you might find in a potentiometer full open is irrelevant in analog circuits. No one can hear that in volume change or tone. Besides you have 5 times that resistance in an average guitar cable alone.
Now to the actual point I was making was; that it doesn't matter if you use a 1 meg pot, a 500K or a 250K pot because the resistance is the same for all of those at the same desired volume level. If you cut the volume by 50K ohms on any of those pots, it's still 50K and it's going to sound the same no matter which pot you have set at 50K. Meaning no tone change with different potentiometers.
Now if you have anything relevant to add to the discussion I'm happy to listen. If you are just here to troll, which is what it appears, please don't.
This is simply untrue. When the volume control is wide open there is still the entire resistance of the post acting as a shunt resistance across the pickup coil, and shunt resistance across the coil affects the Q of the coil and therefore its frequency response, regardless of how much of the pot resistance you have in circuit to the amplifier.
You guys are the best. Thank you!
"The higher the value the brighter the tone"?! No no no no and no.
It's not that simple. And mostly that rule is wrong.
The output impedance of the guitar is effected by the volume pot.
And it changes drastically with volume pot position.
And it reacts with the capacitance of the guitar cable which is controlled mostly by it's length.
The cable going from your guitar to the amp is a capacitor. The center conductor to the outer shield makes a capacitor.
That capacitance is rated usually in some amount of picofarads per foot. All the feet add together. A 20 foot cable will have twice the
capacitance of a 10 foot cable. The output impedance of the guitar and the capacitance of the cable creates mostly a single pole Butterworth
RC filter governed by the equation fo = 1 / (2PiRC)
Try this. Plug your Strat into your amp with a 6 foot cable. Adjust the amp for a clean sound. Turn the tone controls on the guitar and the amp to full up.
You guitar will sound very bright. Now. Don't do anything except swap out the 6 foot cable for a 25 foot cable. Probably not near as bright.
Let's say your cable has 25pF capacitance per foot. And your pickup is 5kohm.
Your volume pot is turned all the way up and it's 250k. So the 250k is in parallel with the 5k pickup.
Resulting in an overall output impedance of 4.9k. The difference in 5k and 4.9k is insignificant.
(Actually the DC impedance of the pickup is not the only thing going on here. The coil is a big inductor. And it adds reactive impedance.
Essentially the impedance at 1kHz is more like 10kOhms to 20kOhms.)
But let's just work with the DC resistance as the governing impedance at first.
For a 6 ft. cable:
The cable is 6 ft long so it's total capacitance is 25pF/ft x 6ft = 150pF.
fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 5k x 150pF) = 212kHz. Which is way above audio range.
For a 25 ft. cable:
fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 5k x 625pF) = 51kHz. Which is still above audio range but we are knocking on the door.
Now suppose you turn the volume on the guitar down just a tad using a 250k pot.
At about the 90% position you now have 25kohm of the pot in series with the pickup.
So the output impedance of the guitar immediately jumps up to 25k + 5k = 30k.
For a 6 ft cable:
fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 30k x 150pF) = 35kHz. Which is still above audio range.
For a 25 ft cable:
fo=1/2PiRC = 1/(2 x 3.14 x 30k x 625pF) = 8.5kHz. Which is in the treble portion of the audio band.
And it will start to sound muddy.
If you turn the volume down more it loses even more treble.
If you use a 500k pot this effect is even more pronounced.
And 1M it's really bad. Turn the volume down just a tad and it gets real muddy.
So I am in favor of using no higher than 250k volume pot.
Now if you are switching from rhythm to lead you may welcome the decrease in brightness as you turn down
for rhythm and turn up for lead. But if you are trying to have a bright sound for rhythm like for reggae then you
have a problem.
Now here's a trick. They make microphone transformers that have a 1/4 inch plug on one end and XLR on the other.
The transformer changes the impedance from the 1/4 inch side to about 100 times lower on the xlr side.
The Shure A85F is an example of this transformer. Radio Shack used to have their own version in stock at the store.
Using an XLR microphone cable plug two of these transformers into either end of the cable. That converts the XLR cable
to 1/4 inch on both ends. Plug one end into your guitar and the other into the amp. Be bold. Use a 50 ft microphone cable.
So the 1/(2PiRC) equation becomes fo = 1/ (2 x 3.14 x 30k/100 x 625pF = nearly 1MHz which is way above audio.
So if you like the short cord bright sound. And you would like to prance around the stage using a monstrously long cable
you can use this transformer trick and keep that short cord bright sound.
Or you could just go wireless and look like a geek when the local airport bleeds into you system.
Another thing to do is to put an active battery operated amp in your guitar. The output of the amp is going to be a constant
very low impedance. So the cable capacitance would also of no concern with this setup.
Also, someone might mention the specification called "characteristic impedance" of the cable.
Like 50 ohm RG58 or 75 ohm RG59. These specifications absolutely do not matter for your guitar audio sound.
Characteristic impedance only comes into play when you are transmitting
signals significantly above 1MHz. And even above 10Mhz. So pay no attention to characteristic impedance specs for guitar cable.
It's the capacitance per foot that matters. And that changes very little from one brand or type of cable and another.
So really it's the cable length that matters.
@Harry. B. Renner. jr. everyone in a recording studio is my guess.
Thank you!
You should have a RUclips channel. This was very helpful. Thank you.
Easy for you to say! :)
The diameter of the cable would help with that. An easy way to explain impedance is the straw vs garden hose. That’s how I teach my electrical apprentices I get.
Thank you for this very helpful video.
I'm thinking of removing my tone pot on my telecaster and replacing it with a tandem set of potentiometers. Soldering in some caps and creating a simple band pass filter. But I'm not sure what value of caps I should be aiming for that will allow me to have a complete sweep both ways from 14khz all the way down to 60hz.
Any suggestions on what will work or where I can find the solution ?
Hey, I have a set of knobs I really like and they are unique, can’t get them in 24 spline. I’ve been thinking I could sand/file the slots inside the knobs to make them almost flush and then push them onto my cts pots then use tape to make them fit snugly if needed.
What do you think, could it work or have you tried this?
To make it clear, if I were to spoil the knobs trying it wouldn’t be the end of the world, if I were to break the pots after doing a full Jimmy Page wiring job though I’d be miffed!
stewart, just in case you can read this question, if I try to get a bluesy tone like SRV and David Gilmour which value of pots would be closer to a bluesy tone ? 250K or 500K ? I am using regular mexican fender pickups... and I have to ask, I am Engineer, in theory any brand with the same values it supposed to give the same tone results ? right ? I understand that quality involves a lot of mechanical aspects, but one pot of 500K of $4 supposed to give the same very aproximated tone results that another of $15 right ? thannks for the great videos
I got tons of tech questions for you. I have played many years but just getting into this tech stuff. OK I might want to get a guitar kit and build one since new guitars are way too expensive and they wont make it how I want, unless I pay "custom shop" about 2-3 times more.. So building a kit seems to be the only affordable way. So what is the best pots, caps and pickups to get the hugest Jimi SRV type tones ever, to totally maximize a single coil Stratocaster, thinking way out of the box?
Can you help me out here, thanks..
You can get pretty close with good quality CTS pots and the Fender 59/62 pickups. 12's definitely play a part as well. However, and hate to be that guy, but especially for SRV, tone is in the hands. Alot of his sound comes from his pick attack and incredibly strong hands bending. If you're a gentle player it's just not gonna happen
A higher value pot will only sound brighter when maxed out. At lower settings the sound will be the same as lower value pots. For example if you turn down a 1 Meg pot it's the same as a 500k pot
What is the difference between the gold pot (like in this video) vs the cheaper silver pot? Thanks
The trick I always use for a spinning friction held knob is to use a cigarette paper (Rizzla etc..) & this works a treat!!!
Remember smoking kills & I'm a nonsmoker!!!!!
Great tutorial.. What's the stock pot brand used in Fender Jazz (highway one) bass made in US?
Those would be CTS.
Hello , I just bought an Eastman SB 56 with Lollar P90 and 500K pots...Feel it too trebbly sounding , need more warmth and fatness (like other P90 Gibson équipée I have !)..What can I do ? Which pot will help ? Caps too ? Thanks for your answer and help. Kindest regards from France . Belo
Tell me, do you use linear or audio taper pots. You didn't say. Perhaps you can make another video explaining whenand where each type should be used.
What if you pop the back off the pot, and put it back together, is it generally screwed up inside, like the mechanism? I did the with a pot, and it seems fine, but I'm still putting things together and unsure if it will function correctly? Can stuff get out of whack, where 9 on your dial is really 5 or something? Not sure how things line up in these?
A hot soldering iron can help put a knob on too if you dont leave it to long.
Love that blue guitar
Jazzblasterrr I wish I knew what it was.maybe a modded duo sonic?
gibson kalamazoo kg1
Do the value of the pots all have to be the same? I.E. on a standard VVT jazz bass, If I wanted to use 500k or 1meg pots, do all three pots have to be 500k or 1meg respectfully or can I mix up the values? Currently, I'm about to wire a jazz bass with 1meg in both volumes and a 500k for the tone. Will that work? thanks
The over seas guitars the past 23 year have been incredible..the craftsmanship of these guitars amazing..your guitar doesn't have to be made in America anymore to have top quality craftsmanship..
And you don't have to give up you right leg to own a quality guitar..anymore
Hey. For humbuckers is better A or B potentiometers? The volume of the line or logarithmically?
For humbuckers, we generally recommend using 500K-ohm control pots with audio/logarithmic taper (A-taper) for both volume and tone controls because the A-taper sounds more natural to the ear. However, there are some manufacturer's who use linear taper (B-taper) pots for their tone control. It really comes down to your personal preference and letting your ears decide.
If the 250k pots that are in my 80’s Japan Tokai strat still work should I replace them or just leave em in til they stop working? Will CTS pots enhance tone? I upgraded pickups with a handwound set
CTS pots will not enhance tone. You could try changing your existing pots for some with a different value and see how you like it. Who manufactured them is not very important.
I've got a 93 Les Paul that is sounding muddy. What would I check?
7:25 so, whatever metal is used for those gnurled posts is some kind of cheap metal that doesn't truly bend like real metal would, I assume. I mean, if it's real metal it should not break if you just bend it. Hell, a cheap coat hanger takes tons of back and forth bending before it breaks. Shame you have to buy new knobs to use those pots. Are there more choices besides linear and exponential taper? I recall some different tapers in the past and I wonder if you can choose between only those two. I think I'd like one that fades in really slowly so that on higher gain settings it doesn't just pop right on. anyway, thanks for the info and tips. Interesting about the pot resistances altering the tone. I didn't know that the volume all the way up would allow for the pot to have an effect since the resistance at that point should be 0. ? Maybe you mean the tone on points less than full volume. I don't know! haha
Electronics on budget imports are very cheap and their rated values are (often) inaccurate. CTS are reliable and bench tested. They also “roll” smoothly if you like to use them for effect while playing. (Same with alpha). I think that’s all he’s getting at. Some of you haters might be missing that simple point. Btw, I use NOS Russian OICs solely because I think they look cool. I use cloth push-back wire for the same reason. Infuriate yourselves on that for a while if you wanna.
"Area where the manufacturers cut corners, is hardware and electroncs" Cut to inside of plywood guitar. :D
I always thought that was just a joke. Holy Cow! It IS plywood. Had a Danelectro back in 70's that I picked out of someones garbage. It was fiberboard, but it had lipstick pickups so I had to have it.
For anyone who can answer, i was going to put a hot rail in the neck and a p90 in the bridge for my first upgrade, with a 250 be good?
Are the pots that come with the fender player Strat any good? Should I upgrade?
8 year old video, but Ill ask in hope for an answer anyways! I have a 2023 Fender players series Stratocaster. I have swapped the bridge and neck pickup to a Seymore Duncan SHR-1B hot rails, and a DiMarzio Air Norton S. The mid is still a single coil BUT, asap i get the DiMarzio Pro Track in the mail it won't have single coils pickups. Tomorrow before getting the Pro Track ( slow delivery so I don't want to wait ) I'm swapping out all 3 stock 250K to Fender Volume/Tone 500K Split Axel Potentiometers. ( In my case the knobs will fit right on the new ones ) Will that be okay while waiting for the Pro Track or will it make the mid single coil that's currently in there sound weird? And is my choice to go for 500K with the setup mentioned a right choice or would you stick to the 250K pots?
Should have covered the difference between A and B pots and which are better for volume and which better for tone.
Really helpful and clear, thank you 😊
Could you use electric guitar volume pots on a bass? Or would you have to use specific volume pots specifically for bass guitars with the lower frequencies?
Sure, just so long as the value is correct. A 250k pot from a Strat is perfectly fine on a P-bass.
I'm pretty sure the Jag/Jazzmaster use 1 Meg pots not because the pickups are darker, but because the additional circuitry in the guitars (rhythm/lead circuits and switching) sucks the high end out of the tone. I bypassed the rhythm circuit on my JM and had to (to my ears) use 250K just like any other Fender single coil. Cheers!